Cadillac Seville

2007 Cadillac Seville Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

Hi i recently purchased a 1997 Cadillac Seville, When the car is running the abs and traction lights are lit up, and when the car first starts a message appears " stability reduced" and does nto go away until you clear the info. Also on top of that i have noticed when i drive the car over the littlest of bumps there is a horrible vibration ( not in the steering ) i cannot tell where abouts in the car it is coming from, I have looked aroudn the car for things that may be loose or worn but cannot tell, but i did notice the back of the car sits lower than the rest of the car and the back left croner sits alot lower than the right if anyone can please help me it owuld greatly appreciated

IT is a 1997 not 2007 my mistake

Hello, This is a little confusing as ABS and Traction Control are related systems, but "Stability Reduced" turns my head to the car's struts.

The curb height of the vehicle sounds to be grossly affected in the rear of the car. Like the Electronical Level Ride is not pumping air in the rear struts to level the car.

Your car has an amazing onboard diagnostic system. With the ignition key ON, engine running or not, press and hold the Climate Control System OFF and Temperature Warmer buttons down until the display on the Driver Information Center changes and then release the buttons.

The car's computers will begin to self test and offer any codes stored in memory. One after the other the computers will answer the call for their stored info.

Write down these codes and we will glean what we need to get you on a path to repair.

To exit diagnostics press AUTO on the Climate Control Panel, or just turn the key OFF. The information will remain in memory until we take specific action to clear them. That comes later.

The rear struts are the only ones that air up to level the car. There is a system of small black plastic air lines that connect to a valve at the top of each rear strut.

Try to locate these lines and see if they are disconnected or broken. Follow them and look for proper routing and defects such as holes, or kinks in the lines. They are spliced together and run to the level ride compressor under the right rear of the car inboard of the R/R wheel.

Questions?

Roger

The Codes showing up are PO135 CURRENT, PO741 CURRENT, TCS C1223 HISTORY, C1224 HISTORY, C1241 HISTORY, C1243 CURRENT, C1282 HISTORY, B1740 HISTORY. as for checking the lines, I will get on that next and let you know

P0135 = O2 Sensor Heater Circuit, Bank 1-Sensor 1, Malfunction

P0741 = Torque Converter Clutch Circuit, Performance or Stuck Off

C1223 = Right Front Wheel Speed Signal Erratic

C1224 = Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal Equals Zero

C1241 = Right Front Isolation Solenoid Circuit Open

C1243 = Right Front Isolation Solenoid Circuit Shorted

C1282 = Yaw Rate Sensor Bias Circuit Malfunction

B1740 = Radio Configuration Problem

I have an OBD II Book that I looked these codes up in and listed them for you. I will go to the Cadillac Dealership from where I retired tomorrow to pick up a part for my daughter. While there I will verify these code definitions.

The first thing I do is clear the codes and drive the car to see what codes reset.

Remember after the computers all gave up their code information the Information Center Display said "PCM?"

That really is a question! To answer a question press Fan UP = YES, Press Fan Down = NO.

So when you see PCM?, press Fan Up....YES.
Then questions about the PCM will start to display such as DATA?, INPUTS?, OUTPUTS?, CODES?, CLEAR CODES?... but only one at a time as you must answer each question. Each time you press Fan Down (NO) the next question will appear.

To clear the codes answer NO to the questions until you see "CLEAR CODES?" Then answer YES and the codes will be cleared.

To switch to the next computer press OFF one time. The next computer steps up and asks you questions. Answer YES or NO to what you see and want to do and you can really get an idea why Cadillac is such a cool ride.

You won't hurt anything. You are just talking to the computers like a shop technician does when the GM TECH II Scanner is not available.

Give it a go.

Roger

Weather here is hindering life in general as roads are iced over. I haven't gone to the Cadillac dealership I retired from yet because the parts I ordered haven't arrived. The truck didn't get here.

I've not forgotten you.

Roger

WOW! I'm glad I looked up these codes in the Seville Shop Manual.

Code P0135 is the REAR heated oxygen sensor too slow to warm up.

The Code P0741 is a labor intensive serious code. The transmission has to come out.

The transmission will have to be opened and the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid replaced. The torque converter will also need replaced and is the main reason for removing the transmission.

Right now your transmission is not applying the torque converter clutch on command and as a result 4th gear is not permitted to engage. Gas mileage is impaired.

Do you have a warranty or recourse with the seller?

Codes C1223 & C1224 are the left and right rear wheel speed sensors respectively. Their input signal is ZERO.

Code C1241 is a MagnaSteer circuit malfunction. Usually caused by an open or shorted wire that connects the MagnaSteer Actuator to the antilock brake system. If wires are okay, replace the MagnaSteer Actuator at the base of the steering column.

Code C1243 is a Brake Pressure Modulator Valve Pump Motor Stalled. (Turns on the "Stability Reduced" message)

Code C1282 is a Yaw Rate Sensor Bias Circuit Malfunction. This sensor is fastened to the rear window package shelf. I have found them to be loose. (Turns on the "Stability Reduced" message)

Code B1740 is a sound system configuration problem usually set if there is an incorrect or missing external amplifier or a missing CD Changer. Sounds like maintenance has been done on the sound system or a change from original equipment has occurred without reprogramming the PZM (body computer).

Is this just too much information? I recommend clearing the codes and see what codes reset.

How would you like to begin?,

Roger

Well first of all the I think some of those codes were past codes because only two of them are showing up now I have cleared the codes, it hs been a about 2 days (first time we talked) since i cleared them the only one still coming up is the oxygen sensor one, and 1243 brake pressure modulator i believe. I am aware the oxygen sensors need replacing, I would liek to get rid of the ABS, Traction light, and stability reduced message, which all disappear but return within seconds once the 1243 code is reset

Okay, I'll search for repair steps on the Code C1243.

I ask your patience as it will be Monday before the Cadillac shop reopens and allows me access to the genuine Seville Repair Manual.

Roger

I have four pages to send to you from the Mitchell 1 Auto Repair Data Base.

May I have your email address please?

Thanks, when I get home I can scan these to email for you.

Roger

hi, my e-mail is [redacted]

I have sent four pages your way,

Roger

More help has been emailed to you.

Roger

Hi I just wanted to thank you for all your help I have fixed my problem as it was the bpmv pump motor that was jsut ceized up from corrosion, I could not of figured this out without your help I really appreciate it. I do have one more question for you thoe. Anyways about a week beofre i contacted you about my last problem I had another problem. I would start the car up drive to where i was going but once i had started driving and the engine warmed up the temperate gauge would go up and keep going up to overheating, no heat would be coming out. Anwyas i stopped to chekc to see if there was coolant there was pelnty so i was try it again after the car had been turned off then started again within less than a minute it would strat up then go from overheating to suddenly back to normal and heat came out. It was completely fine after that until 2 days later the same thing happened i turned it off for about a minute started it back up and it worked again. That day when i got home i let it cool down and topped up the fluid and whatnot, the problem has not yet returned. But just today i took a trip down the highway which i hadnt done until before the heating problem occured. So everything is fien temperature gauge is dead centre. So i get on the highway I am driving and after about a few minutes of driving at a constatnt speed of 110-120 i noticed the gauge slowly goes up a notch it stays there for a few minutes then slowly goes up again and again, i have driven it for about 20 minutes on the highway when it has done this it. It has never actually overheated but been pretty close. I dont want to see hwo far it will go, But i do notice it will go up no matter what speed i am doing on the higway i can put it in neatral and it will jsut stop slowly going up. But then as soon as i get on the off ramp to get off the ghiway the gauge comes rigth back down to normal and is prefectly fien in city driving even on the 80km side roads this problem only come on the highway. If you could please help me out with this problem as I am goign to my sister wedding in quebec next month and don;t want to have problems. I have been looking on cadillac forums for similair problem some people have said themostat, some water, and some blown head. The blown head part sort of scraed me so I immediatly checked for symptoms(fumes in coolant tank things liek that) and no symptoms appear , my frist step was going to be to flush the coolant system and new thermostat , but I woul dliek to get your opinions and thoughts before I do so thankyou for your time it is very greatly appreaciated

It has been - the highway minuses here for the past while -15 to -30 i dont knwo if that plays a factor the car never use to do this

Your ambient temperature is cold enough that cooling fans may not be needed when the car is moving.

Pressure test the cooling system to check for leaks. Repair as needed. Pressure test the cooling system cap to ensure it will keep the cooling system under full design pressure to raise coolant boiling point.

Replace the cooling system thermostat.

If the coolant protection is not -40 F and/or has been in the engine for two years I'd replace it.

Fill the cooling system and bleed out air. While running the engine to operating temperature also run the heater on max heat to bleed air out of the heater core.

Clear any obstruction to air flow through the radiator.

Road test for evaluation.

Roger

Hey Roger, Ok so I flushed the entire cooling system, checked for leaks, nothing, so I replaced the thermostat. So I put it all back together and took it for a drive on the highway 15-20 mins all was fine until i get off the highway then boom, all of a sudden i am getting cold air blown on me, and the temerature gauge rockets up to the red i pull edover shut off the car straigth away i got out popped the hood felt the upper rad hose it was warm but not hot, i then notcied the oxpansion tanks was spitting out coolant form the overflow pipe, left it for a min or so returned to start the vehicle and walla heat coems flying back otu and the temparetaure gage returns to normal, this is really starting to blow my mind now it is like the thermostat is closing, the thermostat is brand new, i am thinking mayeb it is the water pump but do not understand there is alittle noise coming from the water pump area when the car is running, part of me thnks maybe its the headgasket like some forums say but i do not know further assistance would be appreciated

That sounds like there was air trapped in the cooling system. Air will usually end up trapped in the heater core (that's when you get cold air from a warmed up engine). Air superheats to steam and the coolant boils.

Test the cooling system cap to see if it holds pressure. Very important.

Roger

Ok Roger so I got all the air out of the cooling system probelms seems to be gone, yesertday i took a higway drive again the car is overheating like before, it is about -10 celcius, so today i deced to go and get the anit-freeze chcked for contaminants on the way there i took the hgiway, this time the temperature gauge did not budge from normal, today is a mild day about 5 degress celcius ( not freezing) and i drove the car hard down the ghiway did not heat up at all, this ir really starting to blow my mind

Have you looked at the condition of the water pump belt? It is on the rear of the engine left head (the head closest to the radiator).

Roger

2006 Cadillac Seville Electrical / Lighting Systems   

HELP! I have a 2006 Cadillac CTS (that wasn't an option on the pulldown menu, so I put in Seville....) When the outside temperature is below 50 degrees or so, the electric windows and the trunk unlatch on the driver's door will NOT work. Will not even MOVE. After ten minutes of driving or so, they loosen up. What in the world?????

If the switches themselves will not move, they are defective. This vehicle should still be under warranty and repaired free of charge at the dealership, unless I'm missing something?

Thanks. Had it in to the dealership today, but it was already too warm. I think I did NOT stress to them, however, that the SWITCHES were not moving....that is info they need.

Be sure to document the problem in case they put some lubrication on the switches, that may or may not last until the warranty expires.

2003 Cadillac Seville Engine Smelling When driving When warm 

I smell coolant after engine warms up but I cant find any leaks and there is no coolant under the car. could this be the water pump?

What you have is a pin hole leak .. most likely from a hose that is failing. An easy fix it to get a bottle of BARS leak.. it acts as a lubricant for the water pump and will seal any minor leaks.. Cost about 10.00 .. will last until you do your next coolant change out (which should be done yearly). Have fun this was an easy one. AL

2000 Cadillac Seville Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Power seats do not work. I have been to the cadillac dealer, replaced the 30 amp breaker and still no movement. The breaker is burning hot to the touch when installed but no movement of the seats. It also draws down the battery if I leave the break installed. I have spent over $100 and still no resolution to the problem.

Hello,

It sound like a short causing execessive current draw. Unplug the seat motor electrical connectors and reinstall the breaker. Does it still get hot? If yes there is a short in the wiring before the seat motors. If it does not get hot, plug the seat motors back in one at a time to isolate which motor is causing the problem. Allow ample time to check for excessive current draw.

I was able to disconnect 3 wires under the front of each seat that were attached to motors, plugged fuse back in and it got hot to the touch again within a couple of minutes - There are a couple of larger harnesses under the back part but I can't see what they connect to - do you know what these area and do they need to be disconnected? I'm going to dinner now but will get back at it later this evenind 5:00 EST. btw, i am more than willing to pay more than $10.00 to fix this issue. What is a reasonable amount if we fix it?

2000 Cadillac Seville Engine   

After running the car under normal conditions annd then trying to restart there appears to be no contact to the starter ssystem, no click no nothing. battery appears to be good. second time this has happened the previous time in december the car started after sitting for a couple of days.any ideas would be appreciated.Thanks

Hello, Your battery is located under the back seat. Disconnect the negative post cable, then the positive post cable.

You should find two cables that connect to the positive post. One of those cable ends has a spacer (lead plug) that can be pried out of the rubber insulator. Remove this lead spacer and clean corrosion from the cable end that has been made visible.

Reinsert the cable end spacer lead plug and reconnect the positive cables, then the negative.

If no corrosion was found and the battery will pass a load test the starter may need replacing.

Please advise,

Roger

Can't see any signs of corrosion and battery seems to be fully charged ,however after sitting for a while and retrying did geta click and all instrument lights went down.have not had any indication whatsoever of a starter problem.

The instruments lights going dark at the time the key is turned to start is a sign of a poor connection. The demand for a high amp draw to run the starter results in frustration.

Did you take the connections apart as suggested? If so, disconnect them again and this time place a thin washer/shim in the stack between the two positive cable ends to increase the grip the bolt has before it runs out of threads. Cadillac had a service bulletin on this that was more common to the Deville than your car. Worth a try.

Trick is to get a tight connection that will handle high amps. One should not be able to rotate the cable ends on the battery connection bolts once they are wrench tight. Overtightening these bolts can cause an acid leak if the shim is not used. The bolt will bottom-out and crack the post.

I have replaced the Northstar starter due to the solenoid having failed. No sound, no click, no start. When the starter was working it was fine. The solenoid has the positive battery cable connected to it. The starter with the solenoid piggy-backed is in the engine valley below the intake manifold.

My experience with the problem you are describing comes from years of driving Cadillac Roadside Service.

Roger

Makes sense,thanks Roger,will try tomorrow.Any possibility it could be the solenoid.
Thanks. Terry.

Yes, the solenoid could be the problem of the occassional click...but not the cause of the instruments going dark when the key is turned to start.

If you have to replace the solenoid then replace the starter as well. It is a labor intensive job removing the intake and you will not want to pay the labor or do the job more than once.

Roger

Hello,

I've re-opened this question at the customer's request.

Mark,
Site Admin.

Hello, After further research I believe you need to replace the ignition switch in the instrument panel.

Roger

Terry?
I asked the site administrator to reopen the question so I could tell you I believe your ignition switch in the dash is the cause of your car's problem.

Roger

Hi Roger,I was beginning to think that I had a "flat spot" on the armature or something similar,would a diagnostic check pick up the switch problem.I obviously tried both keys and the valet key without any luck.Strangest situation I have come across.Thanks for the update though.
Terry

Next time it acts up try working the ignition key up/down....any way you can to see if for instance the instrument lights come back on. Or, while in the start position the wiggling the key around gets the starter to work. You may or may not get results....

The more I thought about this car the more I want to point to the ignition switch since you found nothing weird with the battery connections. And the dash went dark.

Indeed I have had a 1999 Seville act like you have described your car symptoms to be and the ignition switch fixed that one.

I just couldn't let this go. It's about helping you. It's not about the money.

Roger

Thanks Roger I appreciate it.As of now I still have not beena ble to activatethe starter.I have arranged to have it towed to the dealer in the morning but I will certainly try the wiggling before it goes.When the problem is soilved one way or another I will try to let you know the result.
Thanks again.Terry.

Thank you for being open to my second effort. If the repair shop calls to say you need an ignition switch it may not seem so strange to hear such a claim. If they are scratching their heads... suggest/insist they test the ignition switch functions.

I'll look for your update.

Thanks,

Roger

Will do and again thanks.
Terry.

Any news Terry? What did it take?

Roger

Hi Roger, tried to get back to you but I am basically computer illiterate and had no idea how to contact you, anyway had it towed in and diagnostic showed it was the starter ,probably a flat spot on the armature at a guess(?).No problem starting now.Thanks again for your input.
Terry.

To close the question please click on OK to finish up. I enjoyed working with you.

I thank you,

Roger

2000 Cadillac Seville Engine   

just bought my caddy sls 2000 132k miles run from a dealer...it was sitting idle over there. now i am having problem with the engine, it is vibrating more when idle and making little noise.engine oil is good. pls advice.

First I would check the state of tune. Bad plugs or plug wires can cause a rough idle.
Bad plug wires are more noticable when the weather is damp.
Also get it scanned for codes, a service that is free at many parts stores. That will tell you if there is a sensor problem.
If it sat a long time, fresh gas would be benificial

1999 Cadillac Seville Fuel System  When starting Always

I have a 1999 STS. The gas gauge is not working properly. We ran out of gas. I'v put gas in the tank but it still won't start. Can you help me Stan harris

Can your hear the fuel pump run when you try to start engine, or when you first turn the key on?

I can hear about 15 seconds after I turn on the key for a few seconds.

Did you get my reply?

Stan Harris
[redacted]

Sorry for the delay.

You need to check for spark to the plugs. Also check for fuel pressure.
Which is missing?

How do I check for fuel pressure?

1999 Cadillac Seville Ignition System   

I have to turn the key over several times before it will turn the motor over. When it first started doing it, if I turned the key really fast it would start right up, now I have to keep turning it on and off until it starts.

Sounds like the ignition switch itself.
Call your dealer, see if there is a saftey recall regarding ignition switches.

1998 Cadillac Seville Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

1. Service charging system indicator 2. Power steering not working 3. Rear of auto looks lower 4. Vehicle has over 205,000 miles

If the charging and power steering are both bothering, check to see if the drive belt is broken/missing.

What drive belt? Where would it be located?

On the front of the engine (the alternator belt).

1998 Cadillac Seville Engine   

I have a 98 seville sls and have been having problems with it overheating. It only does it when you go on the highway and drive. As the car sits or drives in the city it does not get hot, the guage stays at the half mark, but when on the highway it goes hot. The vehicle shows no signs of a head gasket problem. I have changed the thermostat and the radiator but to no avail. I am wondering if maybe the computer is not kicking the fans on soon enough. Please help me if you can.

It seems that most cars cooling fan systems today don't kick on until the temperature gets up around 235 to 240 degrees, have youres tested.
let it idle until the engine temperature got up there and see if the fans kick on,
If you turn on the air conditioner both fans should automatically kick on.
This is the first test you do to see if the fans are working properly.
let me know what happens, we will go from there

I hope this helps

1997 Cadillac Seville Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving When warm 

After driving for a while, at 70-75 mph rpms jump from about 2300 to 3500 like it is down shifting for no reason. Only does it when warm. Its like it wont shift into overdrive. tech at dealer says diagnostic computer says its in 4th gear but runs like in 3rd? any ideas? thanks

Does this tech at the dealer have the GM TECH II Scanner connected when the car is driven and the condition is present? Is he a Cadillac technician? Did you go on the road test and ensure the complaint was duplicated?

A thorough road test should show the tech the status of the components under command of the POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM). He says it's in 4th gear..is the TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH (TCC) applied? If no contact with the brake pedal is present, does the brake switch parameter show to be OFF and the TCC to be commanded ON? Is the brake switch properly adjusted? The brake switch turns the TCC OFF when brakes are applied so the engine will not stall when the car comes to a stop. I look at these things when I drive to diagnose such problems. If the tech you are asking for help is not really familiar with the wonders of the TECH II Scanner he can easilly overlook the obvious. Perhaps you should drive and have the shop foreman run the scanner for information when the symptom is present.

Roger

When I took the car in the first time they could not get it to do what I described, so the next time it did it I took it in. The shop foreman did drive it with me along and he had a scanner hooked up at the time. i dont know if it was the tech II or not. He said he could not tell from the scanner what was causing the problem and they would have to drop the pan to find out. Do you think the PCM needs to be replaced?

Drop the pan for a look? Not unless it's warranty so you aren't paying for a guess. The transmission should be setting codes if it is acting up. Scanner parameter data must be carefully evaluated to get on track. If the complaint is not duplicated the tech is fishing when he suggests a repair process. Do any Technical Service Bulletins apply?

Guard your billfold. Get a second opinion. If the money you spend on a repair does not result in a complaint correction you'll be disappointed to say the least. Gaining experience at the expense of the customer's patience is no way to do business.

I doubt the PCM is bad.

Roger

1997 Cadillac Seville Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction  

twilight sentinel turns the headlights on in the middle of the day

Twilight sentinel will only come on with it being dusk or darker. You may have something obstructing you sensor, making it believe that it is night.

Do you have things on your dash or an aftermarket dash cover? If you do, it makes it dark and the sensor reads that and turns on your lights.

Cigarette ashes, heavy dust, almost anything like this will cause your problem. On the 97 Caddy, I don't remember if the sensor is on top of the dash, or mounted in the grill area. You will need to clean anything from it so it doesn't give the sensor a false reading.

1997 Cadillac Seville Heating / Cooling System Failing Happens always Always

This sites administrator has changed the way we veiw your questions.All I'm getting is you have a cooling/heating problem.If you haven't resolved the problem,answer back and I'll see what I can do to try and help out.
Good Luck,
Paul

YES I WONDERED HOW YOU COULD ANSWER WITH NO MORE INFO THAN THEY ASK:
I HAVE NO AIR-THE DASH SAYS "AIR COMPRESSOR OFF" I
HAVE HAD A COUPLE OF PEOPLE SAY ITS THE "BRAIN"?
BUT IF IT IS I HAVE NO IDEA WHERE IT IS OR HOW TO GET TO IT. THE COMPRESSOR WAS CHANGED LAST YEAR?
I HAVE ALSO HEARD THAT 80% OF ALL THE "BRAINS" RETURNED ARE GOOD AND DID NOT NEED TO BE REPLACED

ED HOWELL

O.K. I'm assuming this is the A/C we're speaking of.You had the compressor changed a year ago.Someone has told you its the "brain" at fault.There are a few things that need to be checked before dismissing it as the control panels fault.First and foremost,the pressure levels need to be checked in the system.With a compressor that is not engaging,that can be a hard thing to determine.There is a high pressure switch on the evaporator that serves as a safety should pressure become to high,thus shutting down the compressor.By removing the harness to the switch,with the engine running and A/C in high,a jumper wire can be placed between the two tabs on the harness to bypass the switch.The compressor should engage at this point.If so,the high and low side pressures should show actual operating pressure(I've never depended on static pressure)The low side should be in the 28-32psi range,the high is 200-280psi.(some vehicles run a litttle higher so check a manual for your specific range)If the high is out of range then you may have a high side restriction.Most GM vehicles have a small filter in the high side line going into the condensor.When the old compressor went out,it may have left some residue that didn't get flushed.If the pressure is low to nil,then the system needs to be charged.(another safety precaution so the compressor does not overwork)If the compressor fails to engage at all,then you need to move on to the compressor itself.With the engine off,put direct current to the clutch.If the clutch clicks into lock position it should be o.k.If all these tests pass,then I would look at power being sent to them(control head,relays,fuses etc)You can do this with a common test light,but if you know how to use one,a DVOM works much better.The reason I wrote this book is I like to find answers before solutions.
Good Luck,
Paul

I'LL DO SOME CHECKING

THANKS

Again,Good Luck and let me know of any outcome.
Paul

OK!

Haven't heard back so I'm hoping you have found your problem.If not,let me know and we'll dig a little deeper.
Good Luck,
Paul

I HIT THE WRONG BUTTON-NO I STILL DONT HAVE ANY AIR I FILLED IT WITH FREON (IT WAS OUT) WE DID THOSE THINGS AND CANT GET THE COMPRESSOR TO ENGAGE. WE CHANGED THE HIGH PRESSURE FILTER AND IT HAD SOME "LINT" AND STEEL SHAVINGS IN IT. THE ONLY WAY WE COULD GET THE COMPRESSOR TO ENGAGE WAS TO GROUND IT-THEN IT WOULD TURN? BUT EVEN WITH IT TURNING THE "COMPRESSOR OFF" LIGHT WOULD NOT GO OUT-WE REMOVED THE BATTERY CABLE ALSO-BUT NO LUCK- THE OPINION IS ITS THE "BRAIN" OR WHATEVER ITS CALLED UNDER THE GLOVE BOX?.........BUT I MAY HAVE A WORSE PROBLEM--MY WIFE SAID THERE WAS SMOKE COMING OUT OF THE STEERING COLUMN YESTERDAY??????????????????

ED

Wow!Sounds like we got a whole can of worms to dig through.On the A/C issue,freon was out,particulate was found in the system,and direct ground to the compressor still does not produce cold air and the removal of the battery cable failed to reset the compressor light.1)The lack of freon indicates a leak as I'm sure you are well aware of.2)The particulate mater found in the system indicates ethier the system was not properly flushed prior to the changing of the compressor or the new compressor may have let go.3)The removal of the battery cable on some systems will sometimes reset codes within it,but some need to be manualy removed with a diagnostic scanner.As for the somke coming from the column,it most defininetly sounds like you need to check the wiring harness that runs through it for any chaffing or grounding.If its coming from the top of the column,the turn signal switch or the ignition itself could be suspect.If its at the lower section,there are some relays down in this area that could apply.As before,the more info sought out makes for the proper repair.Let me know of any more of your findings and I'll continue to help you through.
Good Luck,
Paul

PAUL- THANKS--I THINK I WILL TRY TO CHANGE THE "BRAIN"- I CAN GET ONE FOR 100.00- AND SEE IF IT WORKS- IF NOT THEY SAID I COULD RETURN IT (THATS IF I CAN FIND IT).

I DIDNT ASK HER IF THE TURN SIGNALS WERE ON.

ED

Best of luck to you.If there is more to this saga,be glad to lend an ear.
Good Luck,Paul

thanks will do!

Ed

1997 Cadillac Seville Ignition System Won't Start When starting Always

what are the symptoms.. does the engine turn over? Do you only hear a clicking noise? Did you turn it off and it wont restart? Did it stall on you and not restart?

the car has code p1375...p1377 and stats but takes a long time hot but longer when cold and i changed feul presher reg...help i have this car sold

Hello,

I've re-opened this question at the customer's request.

Mark,
Site Admin.

I need a little more than " car wont start..." need to know symptoms. but thanks anyway

you get in car and crank and crank finily it will start it felt and sounded like fuel stavation so i put in a new fuel reg still the same crank and crank and then finily it starts car has code p1375 and p1377 what would you do with these codes are they saying cam sensoor is no good

are you out there did you get my ????

Check crank position sensor A. Check for wiring faults going to it. Check the ignition module. Any of these faults can keep the car from starting.

What about these codes that I gave you? Also, I forgot to mention that the tak is not working. Does the tak run off of the crank sensor? The car starts, however, it is taking a long time. I looked up the codes and they give reference to cam sensor pulse where do I go from here? Please advise as soon as possible.

The codes point to crank sensor A and the ignition module. Each can also affect the tach.

DWHAT DO YOU MEAN BY crank A is tere more than one crank sensor

There are 2 crank sensors. They are located on the lower radiator side. Sensor A has yellow and a purple wire going to it.

1997 Cadillac Seville Brake System Making Noise When turning Always

light says stablity engaged,brakes acts as if grabbing sometimes

Hello, Do you know how to use onboard diagnostics to test for codes?

With the key on press and hold the Climate Control OFF and WARMER buttons down at the same time until the display on the Driver Information Center changes, then release the buttons and watch the display.

Record the codes as the different computers go through diagnostics. Please let me know the codes you see.

To exit diagnostics press the AUTO button or cycle the key to OFF.

Roger

What is happening here, please?

Roger

1997 Cadillac Seville Heating / Cooling System   

my a/c does not work compressor does not click on

Hi, Your car is either low on freon or the compressor is failing.

Have you been hearing a rapid clicking sound under the hood before the compressor stopped engaging?

Roger

What is happening with this one? Please update.

Thanks,

Roger

im putting 20 inch rims on a 1994 lexus ls 400 do i have to use longer struts

What is going on here? The original question concerns a 1997 Cadillac. I started dialog in August to diagnose the Cadillac a/c issue. I'm willing to continue with the Cadillac question.

Where did this Lexus strut question come from?

Roger

tyhe cadillac was sold 3 months ago

As a courtesy you should now click on OK to finish up. That will close the question.

I thank you,

Roger

1996 Cadillac Seville Engine Sticking Happens sometimes No pattern

Throttle sticks, RPMs at 1K when normal; sticking sees it races to 2800-3000 RPM. Had it at dealer to replace EBTCM module and harness this week; they couldn't find any problem with throttle (which, of course, WOULDN'T stick when they tested it). Sporadic, has happened about 10 times in past 3 weeks, revving won't bring it back down while there's a 50/50 chance that shutting it down and restarting it will.

Hello, chances are that the throttle bore and valve in the throttlebody needs to be cleaned. Do you ever feel like that the accelerator requires a little extra effort to come off idle? Sort of a slight delay and then it goes?

You can see the valve and bore by removing the black air tube that connects to the throttlebody and looking with a brite light inside the bore. With the key off you can move the throttle by hand and see where the valve contacts the bore and the ring of sticky coking that is accumulating. It needs to be washed clean using a carb/choke cleaner. Let me know what you see,

Roger

Actually, Roger, whether I give it a little or a lot extra by revving the engine, it won't come back off and down to the just-under 1K normal RPMs. The only thing that seems to rectify it is turning it off and back on again, which itself only works about 1/2 the time. Your answer gives me a place to start, though.

Thanks,
Dave

Perhaps your engine needs to have the "idle learn" process done. Do you know how to check for codes by holding the 'OFF" and the temp. "warmer" (red arrow) down until the display on the Driver Information Center changes?

Roger

1996 Cadillac Seville Electrical / Lighting Systems  Happens sometimes 

Left blinker will not work when headlights are on. When lights are off, the blinker works fine. When headlights are on, the dash lights do not work. Bulbs have been changed.

Hello, Did you replace only the bulbs that appear to have been burned out?

Sevilles have tail lamp moisture condensation problems and you may find a bad lamp socket when you inspect them all. Also, the solder contacts on the bulbs melt due to heat. A bulb that has good filements can have deformed contacts.

When checking fuses on the Seville I recommend you do so with the key on and the doors all shut.

Do you have a digital or analog dash?

Please advise,

Roger

Hi Roger,

We checked all the bulbs, but as I stated before, the blinker works fine with the headlights off. Can this still be related to a bad socket. Also, we have an analog dash.

Thanks for your help,
Sandy

Sandy, Yes, it can be a socket problem even so. There should be three rear signal light bulbs flashing on the rear (headlights on or off).

I've seen so many bulbs with contacts deformed by heat that I began to replace all the rear light bulbs at the same time when brake lights or signals malfunction on the effected side. All of the light bulbs need to be the copper colored base. All need to be inspected. The silver color based bulbs are substandard.

Which light on the car drops out when the signals are activated and the exterior lights are turned on?? That will likely be the socket with the problem.

Roger

Hello, Any progress here?

Roger

We have not had a chance to trouble shoot the problem. I did check and see alll 3 bulbs were lit and that when the head lights are on and we try to manually blink the blinkers, it still does not work. Hopefully he will check on this weekend. I will let you know.
Sandy

Thank you Sandy. I want to help. The info I sent you is from lessons learned while at a Cadillac Dealership for 14 years.

Roger

Could it be related to the automatic light sensor and how the circuits split? About twice a week when I start the car the dashboard and
headlamps work normally, once I shut off the car the sensor will not turn the dashboard and headlamps back on. Either way when the headlamps are on the left turn signal will not work.

Thank you for your assistance,
Sandy

The Twilight Sentinel system doesn't include turn signal circuits. You may have a second external lighting problem to address.

Wish I could see the turn signal working and how turning on the headlamps affects the brightness of each bulb on the front and the rear of the car.

I believe you stated the bulbs have been replaced, Did you replace them all (front and rear)? Are they bulbs with the gold color base and all the same number? Do any of the bulb sockets show signs of corrosion inside?

Roger

How are you doing here, please? I could use an update.

Any news?

Roger

Hi Roger,

I am away in Minnesota and not able to assist in getting this problem solved with my car. I will be returning to Ca on Dec. 2. I appreciate your help when I return. Thanks for checking up on this.
Sandy

Thank you for the update Sandy.

Happy Thanksgiving,

Roger

Sandy,

Can we bring this question back to active?

Thanks,

Roger

Yes, I am now back in California and will look at this ASAP. It really needs to be resolved. I will check sockets tomorrow and back sure all sockets are gold. Is there any voltage I could check at the sockets?

Thanks,
Sandy

The brake lights use the same bulb filement as the turn signals.

Realizing this I would want to know how the brake lights look when the headlights are on? Do any drop out?

When brake light or turn signal is called for the voltage will be 12 volts for the contact in the socket for the same filement(pulsating if signal flashes). The other contact in the socket will be constant 12 volts for the tail light filement if the Park/Headlights are on.

Roger

1996 Cadillac Seville Heating / Cooling System Failing Happens always No pattern

i get no heat my outside temperature guage stays on 127 degrees farenheight

Have you tried resetting the system? Disconnect the battery cables for five minutes. While still disconnected touch the cables together.

1995 Cadillac Seville Electrical / Lighting Systems   

step on brake when in gear doors unlock, release brake padel doors lock

Is this only when you come to a stop and put the vehicle in park?

Has something changed with the door lock feature?

no this happens everytime you press the brake pedal with it in any other gear besides park.

This is most likely a communication problem with the body control module, a scan tool is really needed to find the problem.

there is no body control module in this vehicle so i have been told and if there is one i have no idea whare it is located the last owner was told by his mechanic it was bad but i have not found anyone who knows where its at. any help would be appreacited

1995 Cadillac Seville Ignition System   

This morning remote start wouldn't work, nothing new, but went out to start with key and nothing. Not even a click. The dash lights go on and seem bright, antenna up, radio on, but not starting, no noise at all. Mechanic on phone says starter gone. The car has been in the shop three times in two weeks. Replaced heater blower motor, fuel pump, then throttle control motor.

Hi, First check the battery cable connections. Disconnect the negative cable end first, then the positive.

There are two positive cable ends. One of them has a thick lead spacer. Pry this spacer out of the red rubber protector to expose the bare terminal underneath.

Clean away all corrosion found then reassemble the connections.

Try to start the engine. Will the starter work now?

If no corrosion found test the battery voltage. There may be a dead cell.

Please advise,

Roger

Did you receive my reply?

Roger

Hello? Did you get this car going?

Roger

Rats, I just typed another reply but I wasn't logged in. I tried to start again this afternoon cuz husband still sleeping. At first it wouldn't, but after shifting into neutral (Seemed kind of hard to shift out of park?) the car started right up and has been fine since. Is this going to be an intermittent problem like the driver's side window which sometimes works fine and sometimes not at all with no indication as to why or why not?

Susan

Well I doubt it. I've made service calls that just a bump on the shift lever with my hand the car started. Most often there was no action needed. The driver was advised to push the shift lever into PARK with a bit more agression.

The Neutral Start Switch can be adjusted if need be. Replacement gets pricey.

Roger

Hi. I actually do put the car in park pretty strongly. I mean, it's on the floor, it's something that I worry about doing too hard, if anything. Anyway, guess what? After driving around yesterday afternoon and evening to multiple places, the car repeated its performance this morning. Turned the key... nothing. Pushed it harder into park..nothing. Took it to reverse and hard into park.. nope, not a click. Shift into neutral.. started right up. After which it also started in park. Any ideas?

Susan

The Neutral Start Switch can be adjusted if need be. Based on what you said happened this morning a test for voltage going into the Neutral Start Switch needs to be done when the condition is present.

If voltage is not sent to the start circuit when the condition is present the ignition switch in the dash may be the cause. I have had a 1995 Seville recently come in that did require the ignition switch to fix.

The ignition switch is electrical and the current ignition lock cylinder is transferred to the new electrical switch. This is a tedious task.


Roger

Okay, thanks. Doesn't sound like much fun or a quick resolve, particularly since it has to be done, like so many things do, when the condition is present.

Susan

As odd as it may seem I'm thinking the new electrical ignition switch will fix your car. The symptom is just too similar to the Seville that drove me crazy recently.

When bumping the shift lever into Park makes no difference but the car starts in Neutral followed by starting in Park we ask ourselves "What the....."? The Neutral Start Switch has no history of fixing itself. Ever.

But the ignition electrical switch does have history of the intermittant symptom you are describing. It's hard to go there first because one gets a false sense that moving the shift lever is what made the difference. In the end moving the shifter is a coincidence masking the real cause.

An ignition electrical switch and labor will cost the owner from $175 - $250 where I live. You should shop this on the phone in your area. You can expect there will be a diagnostic charge added to my estimate as well. No one takes someone else's diagdosis.

Roger

Okay, thanks. I think you're right. Maybe you'll think I'm nuts, but does this have to be done? I'm thinking of leaving it the way it is. I bought the car in late July and it's been in the shop more than out and I still owe my mechanic almost $800 on previous repairs. What will happen if I leave it? Will it just cease to start at all?


Susan

Tough it out as long as you can stand it. If funds become available before complete failure occurs consider having it fixed before you need it towed in.

What you are experiencing is impending failure. There is no way of knowing how long it will continue to work before complete failure occurs. When total failure occurs it will not start.


Roger

Okay. Thanks for the info!

Susan

Thanks for the chance to help. If we are finished here please click on OK to finish up.

Many thanks,

Roger

Jeez, I would click on okay, if I could find it.

I'll write to the site Administrator and ask him to close the question for us. All Parts is having some server problems I'm told.

Thanks again,

Roger

1994 Cadillac Seville Engine  When starting No pattern

Usually when I start the car, and it doesn't matter when, the engine pulsates up and down and the RPM needle pulsates between normal and 1100 RPM, the only way that I can get it "normal" running is push on the gas pedal several times. This also happens when I want to decelerate quickly by letting my foot off of the gas, the car "bucks" a little and then is ok. What could be the cause of this? This doesn't happen regularly either, sometimes I can go weeks without it happening.

Hello, Northstar Engine, right? Does the throttle tend to stick closed and require just a little effort to come off idle? (Throttle bore may need cleaning)

There is an idle learn procedure that can be accomplished once we know the throttle bore to be clean.

It is good to be sure the air filter and the MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR inlet screen to be clean so this bad boy can breathe. Any check engine alerts on the driver information panel showing up?

Please advise,

Roger .

Yes I have a Northstar engine, and the answer to your question whether I have a "check engine light" that comes on , no I do not. When I start the car, it tends to run a little bit rough, and the engine revs up and down, up and down, up and down, and I usually have to step on the gas a couple of times for the engine to idle correctly. Like I mentioned before, this also happens when I accelerate and want to let off of the gas, the car "bucks". I don't think that it would be the throttle sticking? The air filter is brand new, just had one put in with my oil change. Got any ideas what the problem could be? Let's pick your brain some more, because I am clueless!! And I don't want anything to happen to the motor by this happening.

If the throttle bore has a build-up of fuel coking it will tend to stick at the closed position. The idle speed control would/can overcome this resistance but the result would be an overcompensation (RPM goes too high) As the throttle is commanded back toward a slower RPM the sticking can become a factor again. The throttle bore needs to be verified clean.

With the engine OFF, access the throttle bore by removing the air inlet tube to the throttle body. With a bright flashlight, look inside at the throttle valve and note where the valve contacts the bore when it is closed. Open the throttle by hand and look at the wall of the bore for a ring of discoloation. If coking is present it can be washed out with a spray can of Carb/Choke cleaner. Restarting the engine will be stubborn and have heavy fumes so be sure you are in a well ventilated area and no children are present.

If the throttle bore and valve are clean we can procede with an idle learn procedure.

Please advise,

Roger

OK Roger, I went ahead and did what you said, and there was slight discoloration, but nothing fancy. However, when I took of the tube that bridges between the throttle body and air filter, it looked like it was improperly installed and there was a gap between those two, so I am trying to put it back together but the hose has been molded that way for so long that it is difficult to get a good seal around it. Could that have been the culprit of the problem that I have been having?

No, I doubt it. A gap would allow unfiltered air in and could cut back on airflow intended to be drawn past the mass air flow sensor. But with no codes being set I wouldn't place blame there, I'd sure try to get a better seal.

Have you recently had the car battery disconnected? I'm going to type an idle learn method to try on NOTEPAD and then cut and paste it to my next message. I don't type fast enough to keep from getting disconnected from my ISP.

Has your car ever had the PCM PROM updated? A Cadillac dealer can check the car to see if it is up to date and see if any SERVICE BULLETINS would apply to fix the trouble. Before I retired I did this check for free but to update the PROM there is a charge. Your dealer would tell you how much for your car. We charged $68.00.

Roger

Well I got a better seal on it, but the problem still seems to be there. I went to work this morning and when I started it up, it did it again. Can you send me the idle thing to my web address? If so, it is [redacted] . If not, I will be looking for it. I just don't know what to do anymore. It's kinda frustrating, you would figure that a check engine or service code would come on. But nothing ever does. Thanks again Roger.

I forgot one thing, can you tell me what a PCM PROM is? Thanks

Matt, the PCM PROM is a chip inside you car's Powertrain Control Module. PROM stands for Programmable Read Only Memory. On the 1994 it won't need upgraded (I was mistaken) so let's drop that concern.

Ready?

To perform Throttle Position Sensor/Idle Learn:

Note: When the process calls for "Enter Diagnostics"; you do this by holding down the Climate Control "OFF and the Temperature Warmer" buttons until you see the Driver Information Center display CHANGE to the Segment Illumination Test. This change of diplay is all you are looking for at this time and you do NOT want to wait too long or the computers will pass by the learn mode and begin reporting history parameters. After idle learn is completed you can go back and snoop all you want for code histories, etc. You should practice before you get serious about idle learn. You can't hurt anything, so give it a try. To get "OUT" of Diagnostics- either push the "AUTO" button on the Climate Control panel, or, cycle the ignition key to "OFF" and back "ON". When you are confident, proceed as follows:

1. Outside air temperature is at least 50 degrees F. so that the A/C compressor will run.

2.Start the engine.

3. Allow the engine to idle until the coolant temperature is 180 degrees F, then idle an additional 5 minutes.

4. After five minutes, enter diagnostics (engine still running).

5. Turn ignition "OFF".

6. Wait a minimum of 20 seconds.

7. Turn ignition to "ON" (engine NOT running)

8.Enter diagnostics.

9. Turn ignition to "OFF".

10. Wait a minimum of 20 seconds.

11. Turn ignition to "ON" (engine NOT running).

12. Enter diagnostics.

13. Turn ignition to "OFF".

14. Wait a minimum of 20 seconds.

15. Start the engine.

16. Apply the brakes and place the transaxle in in DRIVE.

17. Turn the Climate Control Center (CCC) to "OFF" and allow the engine to idle for 30 seconds.

18. Turn the CCC to "AUTO", verify A/C compressor engages. Allow the engine to idle for another 30 seconds.

19. Place the transaxle in "PARK" and turn the engine "OFF".

!!!!!IMPORTANT!!!:

Because of the engine load differences with the A/C "ON" vs. "OFF", TP SENSOR/IDLE LEARN must be allowed during both conditions.

You are finished with "IDLE LEARN PROCEDURE"

Please advise,

Roger

Well hey, have you had a chance to try the idle learn process for a repair?

Roger

Still need help? Ready to close this question? Please update.

Thank you,

Roger

Hello, Can you tell me if you are having problems with the All-Parts Web Site? This question has been open quite awile. Please update or close it.

Thanks,

Roger

1994 Cadillac Seville Heating / Cooling System   

The car is a 1994 STS with the northstar engine. I have had the cooling system serviced. There are no coolant spots on the ground under the car to indicate a leak. There is no steam in the exhause to indicate a coolant leak into the combustion chambers, YET the low coolant warning shows about every month in the computer window under the spedo/tach section above the steering wheel. When I remove the coolant resovour cap I useally have to add 2 quarts of coolant to the resouvour. I have added the cadillac coolant system pellets as per cadillac service instructions. I have installed a new coolant resovour cap. Could you please give me your take on the situation and some advice. Thanks, Tom Walker

Sometimes there is an internal leak that gets into the combustion chamber that is slow enough that you won't notice any white smoke. It is best to a 'sniff test' done. With this test they test the coolant for signs of combustion gases. You should be able to have this test done at a radiator shop/etc inexpensively.

than internal, closely inspect all hoses and radiator for leaks. You can also pressurize the cooling system to look for a leak. The tool is availabe at some AutoZones stores that have a 'Tool Loaner Program'. They lend the tool for a fully refundable deposit. With the engine cool and no pressure on the hoses pump the system full of pressure and inspect for leaks. You may also be able to hear the leak once pressurized.

1993 Cadillac Seville Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction Happens always When cold

I changed the gearbox oil and filter. Ever since, on a cold car, the gear does not engage. After 30 seconds its ok, until I come to a stop (3-5 seconds waiting now). After 10-15 miles all works perfectly normal. Local mechanic said I would have to change the gearbox. Then again it is an american car in Europe, and our US mechanics are known to be very exited on changing expensif items.

I recommend changing the transmission filter again. Check to make sure the seal between the filter and the tranny body is replaced.. (it comes with the filter but is often overlooked) and make sure the fluid is properly filled. Let me know. Al
PS.. what made you change the transmission in the first place? AL

You are right I didn't change that seal because it looked intact. Plus I was unable to get it out of there (any tip on that?). Should I reuse the same filter or change it? (have kept the seal)
I changed the oil thinking that after 10 years the gearbox deserved fresh oil.
Guess my grandfather was right: don't fix it if it ain't broken.
Where would you buy the filter if you lived overseas?
The local guy took 50 USD. I guess that is too much.
Thanks for your quick answer.

A small flat time screwdriver will work.. it will get deformed but not to worry the new one will press (using finger pressure) right into place. I would get one from JC Whitney unless you have a contact in the states. Cost should be about 35.00 and you might want to change the oil again... only about 5 quarts of the 17 quarts in the system get replaced with each dumping of the pan. Let me know if I can be of more help. AL

1993 Cadillac Seville Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction When idling Always

My display center always shows me SERVICE RIDE CONTROL, what is going wrong? How to do a diagnostic?

"Hello, Your car's suspension is electronically controlled and responds to weight carried, speed of the vehicle and other factors to select a comfortable ride from three choices the computer has as to how "stiff" the struts are and thus "Ride Control".

One or more of your struts is not responding to the computer's command for varying the stiffness. The struts are $500-600.00 each plus labor and plus a four wheel alignment.

If the car's ride is agreeable to you and you can tolerate the message you see, you don't have to do a thing. Drive it.

To diagnose (key "on") just hold down the "OFF" and "WARMER" buttons on the climate control until the display changes. Then watch as the different computers display their recorded codes. Write the codes down and tell me what they are and I'll tell you which strut has the problem. Bear in mind more than one strut may have a problem being controlled by the computer. At $600 each, you decide how you choose to proceed. To exit diagnostics just turn the key off.

Many owners just don't fix this one. Changing out the struts to ones that are not electronically controlled will not make the message go away because the computer keeps monitoring the feedback circuits for decission data. If the ride is OK by you as it is, save your money for other priorities.

Roger

Dear Roger, I work with cars for 15 years and I like your help so much. We will do business. So this Cadillac gives me only inst cluster and airbags dtc. They are: NO PCM CODES, IO39 HISTORIC, NO ACP CODES, RO42 HIST, R061 CURRENT AND R062 CURRENT. At www.alldata.com tells me that RIDE code are given by a led at eletronic module and tells me that this module is located at right side of trunk but there is nothing at this place. This is my doubt, I need to find the module to check strut resistance and signals.

The Seville has a trim panel that covers the electronics mounted vertically on the front wall of the trunk. The ride control module is fairly large in size on the right side of that wall.

I039 sets (always a history code) because of the ride control codes R061 and R062. Use a mirror along the bottom side of the module to reflect the flashing LED so you can count the flashes. The R061 & R062 are consecutive numbers and I'm thinking you may have a problem with only one strut.

Roger

1993 Cadillac Seville Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always No pattern

outside mirrors do not adjust all angles both about the same internal motors or switch where can i obtain motors if needed or switches at decent prices?

Hello, First let me ask are the mirror backs loose on the motors? Sometimes when cleaning the mirrors or an impact from someone walking by the car can disengage the mirror back from the motor actuator. If this has happened the mirror motors will run but the mirror doesn't move properly. There are two actuator screws that snap into the back of each outside mirror.

A salvage yard will prefer to sell you the entire outside mirror as an assembly. But if parts are still available from a Cadillac Dealer you can buy the glass kit and I believe it will come with new actuator screws too.

Please advise,

Roger

Mirror glass are not loose or damaged, butit seems as the units may be tight can,t move easily. Stan

Stan, If you try to move the mirrors by hand and the actuator screws are snapped onto the back of the mirror and engaged to the motors you will hear a scraping sound as the screws slide in/out of the motors. You aren't hurting anything if you take it easy.

Do you have the same problem on both side mirrors? Do they move only vertically? Only horizontally?

Roger

June 13, 06. Pretty much the problem is the same both sides. Although the left one works better mostof the time.Probly need some new motors they have moved quite afew times in this many years Stan

It sounds to me that you are satisfied the motors are getting the power to move what ever motion your control switch calls for. Is this correct?

Except for the thumping noise one hears at the end of full range travel do the mirrors skip or jump motion? Could the actuator screws be the problem? (stripped)

On the spare tire cover you will find the list of options your car has in three character format. It is a white sticker with letters and numbers. A Cadillac Dealer will need the codes beginning with the letter "D". The D options are the mirrors production codes used to order the correct mirror replacement parts. Many Dealers can get this same info from the last eight digits of the car's VIN number.

Have you checked to see if motor kits are available for your mirrors? They aren't real tough to replace but you will have to remove the door trim panels to get to the wiring connector and mounting hardware. The difficulty lies in snapping the actuator screws into the mirror backs.

How can I help you do this repair? What will you need?

Roger

Roger, this repair is quite involved I will taketo GM DEALER , TALK to you later. Thanks, Stan.

All right, please let me know what you would like to do with this question. I don't know that I have done you any good.

Roger

Roger you have helped me, Ineeded direction Itook it to garage foundswitch to be faulty. They are ordering switch, 50.00 some dollars . they charge plenty, here too.Next thing inside mirror need new one. Can you get me a decent price on it. codeDD8. Thank you again. Stan.

The DD8 mirror is pricey! I am not a parts man but there is a link here at All-Parts you can click on and put out a request for a used mirror. It is free to inquire.

The local Cadillac Dealer where I am says the Part #[redacted] inside rear view mirror retails for $293.00. How does that compare to prices where you are?

Roger

June 13,06. Roger, Mirror here in Wisconsin 200.00. Didn,t touch on good used one.I will check the used outlets locally too.Thanks again, will do buisness with you folks again. Keep me on your list. [redacted]

The All-Parts site is in Ontario Canada. I am a consultant located near Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. There are several providers like myself located all over the Planet.

It's great to know you obtained useful info here. That is what I always strive for. I worked for a Cadillac Dealer for sixteen years until a bone marrow transplant took me out of the work force in March, 2000. I know your model Seville pretty well.

To accept my answer so that I may be paid, please click on the "OK TO PAY MECHANIC" button. You may request my help if you need something in the future. Just ask when you post your next need.

Would you believe that $200.00 for a mirror where you are is below wholesale here? MERCY!

Thanks alot,

Roger

1993 Cadillac Seville Electrical / Lighting Systems Smelling Happens sometimes No pattern

sometimes a very tiny puff of smoke comes up from the steering column. This has happened about 3 times in 1 year. No fuses burn when it happens. Is there a certain type of dynamic connection that is not always making a good contact ?

Not that I'm aware of, but I'll check for bulletins to see if the manufacturer has found anything.

Does it have a certain smell? Is the smoke coming from the steering column or is that where the smoke rises to?

1993 Cadillac Seville Engine   

Engine dies when vehicle come to a stop.

Hello, Tell me more about this.

Can you shift to Neutral when slowing down and not have the engine die?

Roger

No. It still dies.

Are you seeing a check engine light?

Is this the 4.9L engine? Has the battery been disconnected recently? There is an idle learn procedure to be completed when the battery has been disconnected.

Does the throttle tend to stick closed and require just a little effert to open from closed?

Roger

Yes it is a 4.9l. Also the battery has been un-hooked.

Will the engine idle if the car is not driven? Disconnect the battery for thirty seconds then reconnect. Start the engine and do not press the accelerator.

The engine needs to idle until the coolant temp warms up and with the A/C off.

While the engine idles with the A/C off, put the car in DRIVE while holding the footbrake for one full clock minute. Then turn the A/C on and wait one more minute before turning the car off.

Drive the car. Did that do it?

Also it would be good to remove the air duct and look at the throttle body bore and throttle plates for sticky build up of soot and old fuel. Clean with Carb/Choke cleaner if needed. Feel the throttle movement effort by hand to see if it binds.

I'll check back with you later today.

Roger

How are you doing here please?

Roger

What is the status here please?

Thanks,

Roger

1993 Cadillac Seville Engine   

The engime does not run smoth at low rpm's in park or in drive,the engine surges. What up?

Hi, Do you have the 4.6L Northstar engine or the 4.9L?

How old are the spark plugs and spark plug wires? Is the check engine light on?

Roger

1992 Cadillac Seville Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When repairing Always

It is a 1992 Cadillac STS the rear break lights in the trunk arent working, could I get some instructions on how to repair please Alex

Do the running lights work? If not try just changing the bulbs. If that doesn't work...It is prbably the Brake pedal switch under the dash at/near the top of the pedal arm, or its electrical connector... Good Luck!!!

1992 Cadillac Seville Engine Malfunction When accelerating When warm 

Bought it new and have kept it up.Now once in a while from a idle starting off the engine stalls.Does get dangerous in traffic.Could it be the map sensor?Engine has 102,000 miles on her.

Hello, 4.9L engine? Yes it can be the MAP sensor but before you replace it, see if you can remove the vacuum tube from the sensor that runs to the throttle body. Try to blow your breath back through the tube toward the throttle body. If it is stopped up the MAP sensor is likely OK, but cannot get a proper sample of manifold pressure.

The coking that builds up in the throttle body port can be quite stubborn to remove. The throttle body should be removed for best access to clean out the port. I use a short piece of speedometer cable in a cordless drill, along with spraying choke cleaner, to get the port opened up. A new gasket will be needed to remount the throttle body to the intake.

Is your MAP port stopped up or restricted? Or shall we look elsewhere?

Roger

Air way clear! What now?

Roger, Not sure if you got 2nd question.I checked and opening is clear in throttle body.What would you do next? larry in Georgia

Okay, MAP port is clear and I'm believing you looked at vacuum hoses for splits, etc.

If you have a timing light you can hook it up and with the air horn removed you can watch the fuel injectors spray pattern to see if it appears "fanshaped". The strobe light, when aimed at the injectors, really helps you identify the pattern of spray.

I would want to test fuel pump pressure, if possible. And the throttle position sensor (TPS) sweep should have no "dead spots".

Does the "check engine" light come on with the engine running to signify there has been a code set? Does the trouble occur relative to engine temperature?

Do you have test equipment/tools for diagnosis? Shall I research the values for TPS and fuel pressure?

Roger

Hello, Will you please take a moment and give me an update on this question? Thanks!

Merry Christmas,

Roger

Hello, Still want/need help?

Roger

I haven't heard from you in weeks. Do you need help?

Thanks,

Roger

1992 Cadillac Seville Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When stopped Always

When I turn off the car, the blower motor and dashbord infomation lights stay on causing the batterie to run dead

Hello, Your car has what is called a Power Module. It is located under the hood on the firewall under an inspection cover. It has two electrical connectors and is bolted down (three 7mm socket size screws) near the center and ON TOP of the HVAC plenum case. You may have to move a bracket of relays to get to it. It is black in color and looks like a flat covering for the hole it fits down into.

I believe your power module has failed and needs to be replaced.

FIRST, the blower motor itself needs to be tested for excessive amp draw. This is done with the engine running and the blower fan speed on "HI". After one minute of operation the amp draw cannot exceed 20 amps. If it does, replace the blower motor. High amp draw from a blower motor is the most frequent cause of power module failures.

Once satisfied the blower operates within amp draw limits, replace the power module. If you just replace the module without testing the blower amp draw your new module could have a very short life.

Roger

Anything happening here? Did my suggestion help?

Roger

i did check the blower motor, it check ok i replace that part and i still have the same problem. when i open the door the infomation on the dash comes on and fhe blower,

I'll research this further for you. I'm stunned that the power module did not correct this and I am sorry for prolonging your problem.

I worked at a Cadillac Dealership from 1[redacted] and as a service department technician team leader I've repaired lots of Cadillacs.

Do you have access to a GM TECH I Scan Tool? If I can't find this problem addressed in updated publication, you may need the help of a local shop that has the scanner.

Back soon,

Roger

Let's see if On-Board Diagnostics can help us.

To enter diagnostics, with key on and engine stopped... hold down the OFF and the TEMPERATURE WARMER buttons on the climate control panel until you see the display change to the segment test for the LED's, then release the buttons.

Watch what the panel says and write down any codes you see. Turn off the key and let me know what results you obtained?

Roger

Hello, Still need help here?

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, May I hear from you concerning the status of this question, please?

Thanks,

Roger

1992 Cadillac Seville Electrical / Lighting Systems  When braking 

Brake lights don't work I hav replaced the break light switch, I have replaced all bulbs, checked all fuses. Question Is there another switch I missed? Is there a relay switch somewhere? Is there a section in wiring harness where wire may be broken?

Hello, Based on what you have stated as to fuses and brake light switch and bulbs being good...

You should expect to have to replace the turn signal switch inside the steering column.

When power leaves the brake light switch (brakes applied) on the white wire, it goes through the turn signal switch before it goes to the brake lights. The white wire has a problem at the turn signal switch connector (burned) or has broken inside the column.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

Hello, I'm still hoping to hear from you. Have you read my previous message?

Thanks,

Roger

Ready to close this question? It's been a long time now.

Thanks,

Roger

1992 Cadillac Seville Electrical / Lighting Systems   

1992 seville starting disabled due to ant theft restart in 3 minutes i wait 3 minutes still dont start

What is the security light doing when you attemtp to start the vehicle?

Have you tried cleaning or using another key?

purchased another key dosnt work there is an after market alarm in the car ive owned the car for year with this same alarm ive only had the problem for 2 weeks i have to wait to start the car somtimes for hours

1991 Cadillac Seville Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always

My air condition does not work and I found the fuse for the A/C compressor is broken. Then I replaced the fuse. About 5 seconds after turning on the A/C, the fuse broke again. Do you have any idea that can help me? Thank you.

I'll bet that if you check into the engagement coil for the A/C clutch,you will find that either it is shorted,or a wire feeding it is pinched off.You can easily test this with an ohm meter.If you don't have one,the easy way to check the coil is to unplug the 2-wire plug at the front of the compressor, and see if the fuse stops blowing.If you plug the coil back in and the fuse pops,there's your culprit.wise,suspect the wiring to it.Hope this helps.
C

1991 Cadillac Seville Engine  When idling Always

When I first start my car the engine is idiling rough but the rpms are low. when I take off everything is ok. When I stop again the engine starts idiling rough again I can feel it in the steering wheel and here it. Its not loud. This happens cold and after it is even warmed up. My car only has 64000 miles on it.

Sorry for the delay (if you noticed), I was disconnected from the internet.

I understand the rough idle happens cold or warm, but is the idle always low?

the car is idiling at 525 to 600 it keeps changing back and forth

Start by cleaning the throttle body. Make sure to clean the throttle blade. Also remove the idle air control motor and clean the pintle and it's passageway into the throttle body. Use throttle body cleaner and a brush.

Does your check engine light come on when the engine is running?

The check engine came on last night it had a code of E-42 (Electronic Spark Timing) EST Circuit Open

Was this the first time the check engine light came on? If it was clear the code and see if it comes back. EST codes can be caused by numerous issues.

Clean the throttle body as I suggested and install new spark plugs and wires (use original equipment AC brand).

1991 Cadillac Seville Electrical / Lighting Systems   

is a 1991 cadillac seville bsm computer board compatible with a 1992 bsm board?

According to the interchange 1991 is not compatible with anything newer, '91 and a few years down are listed as compatible.

1991 Cadillac Seville All Part Groups Won't Start  

My car says starter inabled due to theft system. Wait 3 minutes than start. Car still won't start. Help!! Martine

Martine,
On this car, the key is equipped with a chip which the theft system checks. When the parts wear out or break, the car will refuse to start because it believes you are trying to steal it. Try another key if you have one, or you will likely need to have the lock cylinder replaced.
Dale

1991 Cadillac Seville Electrical / Lighting Systems   

when i bought this car the lights seem to dim coming home. since then the headlight system goes out like a short in the system. cant drive it at night after 2 and a half yrs. boyfriend took me to airport drivers window started messin up.
sittin in car decided to put new chain saw in trunk before walmart. it wont start!
security system,3 min,never saw this, ive tried everything.
im a disabled woman. just buried both parents with cancer within a yr.
a cadillac saved my life 3 yrs ago. my father was no 1 salesman for yrs from newark ohio.
someone please help me, this car only has 87,000 miles and is a 91 seville and runs like a race car. bec

Hello, You are describing three problems with the car:
1. Won't start..security sys wait 3 minutes.
2. Driver's power window
3. Headlights go off...possible short.

1. There is a computer chip in your ignition key that has a specific resistance value used by the security system.

The ignition lock cylinder has two small white wires attached to it that deliver the key value to the security anti-theft module. One or both of these white wires has broken loose from the ignition lock cylinder inside the steering column.

The ignition lock cylinder assembly will have to be replaced as the wires cannot be repaired. New ignition lock cylinder and all new ignition keys are required.

A mobile locksmith can replace the ignition lock cylinder and keys for you and save you a tow bill. Or, you can have a repair shop do the work...it doesn't have to be a Cadillac Dealer.

2. The short in the headlights is likely a pinched wire or possibly the car battery has leaked on the wiring. It will require some careful hands on to find the problem. If the car has had body damage the repaired area is the place to begin looking at the wiring.

3. I need more information to guide you on the driver's power window. What happens when you try to raise/lower the window?

Roger

1991 Cadillac Seville Drive Train / Driveline   

hi my 91 seville comes up with gear select switch problem in the driver information area . It also sets a check engine light when it does this, also it turns on the cooling fan, and it seems to have second gear starts. it runs rough when it is in this mode but will striaghten right out intermitily. thanks for any help.

First you will need to find the code for the check engine light. Cadillac has whats called "safe mode" which could explain your trans, fan, and gear issues. You could go to an AutoZone and have them retrieve the codes, or tommorow I can look up the procedure for pulling them from the A/C climate control unit.

Hi, Please turn the key on. On the Climate Control Panel hold down both the OFF and WARMER buttons at the same time until the driver information display changes.

You will see the computers scroll through all the codes stored in memory. Write them down. Tell me what they are.

To exit diagnostics without clearing the codes just touch AUTO or turn the key off.

Please advise,

Roger

hi roger thanks for the help,I have current codes of 12, 120, and history codes of 52 and 552, I did try a new ecm but had no effect. from what i here it can be grounds, pick-up coil, distribitor module, I think it has something to do with the neutral safty switch, my gmc truck did the same thing , it lite all the prndll indicators and had 2nd gear take offs. thanks for any helpyou can give. p.s idid clean the grounds at the coresupport and at the battery. let me know if there are any more trouble spots for grounds.

Is there a letter preceding these codes? i.e. E12 B120

Roger

sorry for not giving you that info e12, e52 b120 b552, Iknow some of these codes have nothing to do with my problem,

These codes do not speak to the root of the problem.

E12 = No distributor signal
E52 = PCM memory reset (Happens when PCM loses power)

B120 = Twilight Delay POT Circuit
B552 = Keep Alive Memory Error

To clear codes reenter diagnostics as before. When the codes finish displaying and you see "ECM?" press and hold the OFF and Fan Low buttons at the same time until you see "ECM CODES CLEAR" to clear PCM/ECM codes.

Next hold down the OFF and FAN Hi buttons until the display reads "BCM CODES CLEAR".

Finally press AUTO or turn the key OFF to exit diagnostics.

Drive the car until the next SERVICE ENGINE SOON event occurs. Check again for codes to see what code has set.

I believe when you tried a replacement ECM we lost the original codes that would lead us to the problem. Like you I'm expecting to point the finger at the Neutral Safety Start switch (PRNDL Switch). I'll look for Tech Service Bulletins too.

Roger

ok roger we are getting some where,while in the process of clearing the ecm codes the car straighten out and the PRND321 lit up correctly instead of all of them having the square lit up around them. I also cleared the bcm. I then ran it about 20 minutes. for about one milli second the car stumbled and the service soon tried to lite,not sure if it was a enough to get a hard code, but check anyway and came up with b448, I think this going to have to do with low refrigerant. I will try to make the lite come on tomorrow its tuff the car has now plates right now.also roger i have been messing with this car on and off for about a month and in the past when this was loaded with codes one of them was code 91 open or shorted gear select switch, but people were telling me that that would not cause this safe mode that this thing goes into, it runs rough and super super rich. I did not want to throw a switch at it if it was not going to be it, they are alittle pricey. A friend of mine used one of his favors to get the new ecm and if it didnt work he could return it witch we did. sorry for going on so long but you do need all the info you can get to diagnos over the computer. thanks

These are the codes I'm watching to come up. When they do I recommend replacing the BCM. Replacing the BCM fixes far more cars with this problem than replacing the ECM will.

E047 = BCM to PCM communication problem between computers.

B334 = Loss of ECM (computer data).

Roger

hi roger I may be wrong on this but they told me that this ecm is also the bcm, witch i did change with no effect. so you also are leaning towards computer problem more so than a mechanical break down of the switch

Yes, I suspect a data communication problem between the ECM and the BCM.

Remove the glove box. Do you find a computer laying horizontally behind a metal bracket with three electrical connectors just below the surface of the dash? That is the BCM.

The ECM mounts vertically below and to the right of the BCM.

Any help?,

Roger

Hi roger, yes there is a computer laying side ways this is the one I changed, now that you said it I also see the vertical computer down and to the right. so did I swap out a bcm instead of a ecm and the ecm may still be the problem. P.S after sitting alnight with the battery connected It started up IN the safe mode and the only hard current code was e12. roger would you mind if you gave me your number this computer thing is a little bit of a pain . thanks agian. P.S agian you must have been a caddy mechanic at some time to know exactly how the computers are sitting not many cars shared the same body as this seville.

I worked for a Cadillac Dealership for fourteen years. I retired in 2000.

Posting my phone or email on this site is against All Parts policies. I'm sorry about that and I hope you'll understand.

I work this site between local tasks and I'm sure the delays between replies can be tiring.

That E12 code coming back just might be the place to look for a repair process. I'll be surprised if the ECM ends up with the fault because that telltale code E47 hasn't shown up.

Roger

ok roger I understand the policies of this site.So with this code12 witch I think is no disributor refrence is maybe a bad pick-up coil or module. IF so how do I test. my electronics skill is very limited IM old school mechanic I switched to body&paint in the late 70,s I missed the intro of computers in the early 80,s

Let me email information dealing with the E12 code troubleshooting.

What is your email address please?

Roger

Hi roger my email address is [redacted] or they are switching us right now to [redacted] I think both will work. thanks

I think you'll have some things to watch for when you read through the information I emailed to you.

Is it legible?

Roger

HI roger got your emails yes they are ok. Looks like I have all the info to finally get to the cause of this, one thing I didn,t do was clean the grounds down at the starter I,ll do that first. IM starting my shift tomorrow so I will not be able to work on it for few days. I,ll let you know how things go next week. thanks again for all your help.

I'm interested and I'll be here.

Roger

1990 Cadillac Seville Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When stopped 

When the ignition is turned off the alarm system (horn)immediately activates asoon as a door is opened. This occurs regardless of whether the key is in the ignition or not. Any assistance on where to start troubleshooting this problem would be greatly appreciated. Alarm does stop after approx. 5 minutes.

Hello, I'll try to help!

To deactivate the alarm you should turn the door key in either front door lock cylinder to the "UNLOCK" position. NOTE: The 5 minute timer is designed to prevent the car battery from running down. That event is normal.

A frequent problem on this factory alarm is caused by a lock switch failing to turn off the alarm. Even the trunk lock cylinder has a switch to turn the alarm off if you should open the trunk before you unlocked the car.

Seville has had trouble with door jam dome light switches, too. A TECH I Scanner will help troubleshoot the related switches and get you on track. I recommend you see your Cadillac Dealer for repairs if you do not have access to a TECH I Scanner.

Roger

1990 Cadillac Seville Electrical / Lighting Systems  When troubleshooting 

Sir,
I bought a 1990 Cadillac Seville, limited Gold edition V-8, 4.5L: The front left and right speakers do not work and I found out each speaker has an independent amp. However, I have been trying to locate the interior relay center. The manual only says (no Pic)in the vehicle, that the interior relay center is located on the right side of the instrument panel, and it takes a 25 amp fuse. I want to locate it in case I ever have an issue with the trunk and gas door fuse as well. I found the fuse box in the glove box and the underhood relay center in the engine compartment but I'm at a loss where else to look without pulling the dash. I can't seem to locate the interior relay center. I have looked on the right side under the dash but no hush panel.
Thank you for your time,
Andy

Hello, Have you removed the glove box? I'm thinking you'll be able to see the relay panel that way.

I can check a different data base for a better answer but it seems the relay panel is indeed on the right side.

Back soon,

Roger

I will try that. Also, what is the easiest way to remove the BOSE speakers from the doors with tearing up the door panels?

Good grief, I can't get in the data base I want for the info I know is there. I think this holiday weekend is the problem.

Those Bose speakers almost always have a bad amp when they fail.

The door trim panel has to come off because theb speaker assembly is so large.

Still trying,

Roger

Thank you Roger! I figured as such but wanted an expert opinion! Just keep me up to speed sir!
Take care

Will you be needing instructions to remove the door trim panels?

I hope to send you instructions with pics. To do so I'll need your email address please.

Roger

Yes! Also, any better luck with the database you had mentioned earlier for the interior relay location by removing the glove box?
My email address is
[redacted]
Thank you sir!
Take care,
Andy

Hi Andy,

When I get back home later today I'll email the door panel removal info I found.

The data base simply says the "Interior Relay Center is on the right side of the dash below the glove box".

I'd be laying on my back looking up to see that one. If there is a hush panel, remove it for access.

Roger

Awesome! Thank you and take care,
Andy

Okay, The documents are scanning and soon to be on the way.

I tried to cross off what doesn't apply to the Seville. This info does not apply to the Seville STS.

Roger

Hi Roger,
Got the documents and will go for it after my son gets back in a few hours.
Your great and again thank you!
Take care,
Andy

Great! Let me know what you may need.

Roger

I will! The info you sent is exactly what I needed. It's going to take some time after he gets back, but I will let you know.
Take care,
Andy

I'll be here.

Roger

How are you doing on this one please?

Roger

1990 Cadillac Seville Ignition System Won't Start When repairing 

After installing battery, ignition started once. After turning off while returning to house in order to eun an errand, would not start again and display says because of anti theft reason. How to get the thing to start please?

Hello, You likely have a broken wire on the ignition lock cylinder inside the steering column.

There are two small gauge white wires that run from the ignition lock cylinder down through the column that carry the value of the chip in the ignition key to the car's security system module.

The fix is to replace the ignition lock cylinder and the ignition keys. A locksmith or a GM dealer will need to read the present ignition key value (there are 15 different ones) and make new keys for the new lock cylinder that have the same resistance value as the original key.

Why was the battery replaced? Battery replacement does not trigger a security issue that must be addressed before the car will start.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

The car had been sitting over the winter last, undriven as I had been hospitalized. When husband tried to start, it wouldn't (battery corrosion)until he purchased a Sears battery after which it started once. He came in house to get stamps in order to mail a letter, that's when the car did not start up again nor has it since, and the anti-theft thing displayed. The car ran fine b4 I was taken ill. Cadillac dealer charges 77? just to diagnose and Lord knows how much afterwards. What about the garage around the corner. AAA rep said should take it to Cadillac dealer. Thanks for any advice. Husband says its old , I should get rid of it. To me its a beauty, I like it and want to keep it.

There is a way to verify the security issue is due to the wire I suspect has broken. One will need an OHM meter.

Who will be making the repair??

Qualified lock smiths can do the job and they will come to you. There is a good chance they are less expensive than the Cadillac Dealer.

I'm retired from a Cadillac Dealer and I remember this job costing the customer about $250.00 The keys are expensive by themselves and most owners would order at least two keys.

How do you want to proceed? If I am right the car won't start unless repaired on the spot or towed to a repair shop. Unless you have free tow service the tow money is better spent on the trip charge a locksmith will charge.

Roger

Yes thanks, I believe my husband hasa one of those meters. HE'S ALWAYS TESTING SOMETHING AROUND HERE.
hE'S ASLEEP NOW, BUT i WILL SHOW HIM THIS TOMORROW. hE'S ALREADY ATTEMPTED TO DISENGAGE THAT
CYLINDER OR SOMETHING AROUND THAT COLUMN, BUT HAD A PROBLEM FINDING SCREWS OR WHATEVER (THIS IS NOT MY SCHTICK)LOL I JUST CHANGED FREOM ALLSTATE MOTOR SERVICE BACK TO AAA, SO I CAN HAVE IT TOWED, BUT ONLY NEED TO KNOW IF A LOCAL MECHANIC KNOWS ENUF ABOUT cADILLACS TO DO IT PROPERLY. i'LL GET BACK REGARDING THIS TOMORROW. tHANKS AGAIN.

Remove the close-out panel below the left side of the dash. Look at the wiring coming out of the steering column. Find two small white wires usually wrapped in an Orange color sleeve that lead to a small black connector. Disconnect the connector.

With the OHM meter leads probe the wire terminals of the side of the connector that goes to the column...not the car's wiring. These terminals are small and maintaining contact can be tricky.

With the ignition key removed from the lock cylinder the meter should not detect anything. When the ignition key is inserted into the lock cylinder the meter should detect a resistance value no matter what position the steering column tilt is in.

The resistance value should remain constant through all positions of rotating the ignition key. The actual value of resistance detected is not important here. We just want to check continuity of the white wires up through the column and through the chip in the ignition key.

If no resistance value is detected, or if the value drops out when turning the ignition key through all of it's positions the lock cylinder with white wiring harness must be replaced as an assembly and new keys cut with the chip value of the original key. Of course the new lock cylinder will have a different mechanical cut and all previous ignition keys will be retired.

Roger

Hey thanks Roger. I just saw ur email as my internet
conks out whenever it pleases. My husband told me to print it (I guess that means he will try to follow it tomorrow or more likely Monday. (Its dark here now - NJ)I'll let you know wha happens. Really appreciate your help. Thanks again - Ciao

I'll do my best to guide you. I'll be on the road Sunday and Monday and I travel with my laptop in hopes of a WiFi signal.

Roger

How is it going here? Have you had time to try my suggestion?

Roger

Hi Roger,

No not yet. Sunday and yesterday he put up the inside and outside xmas decorations. Today we had company, then he had to do some food shopping as Iam unable to do as much as I use to. He does a lot, so
tho I am anxious, I don't like to press. Even with
Xmas around the bend and more shopping he will have to do for me, I'm hoping and think he will get to it this week. He's read your directions and will probably be able to proceed at which time I will let you know immediatly.Though I am happy to have made contact with someone like you, perhAPS I SHOULD HAVE WAITED TIL AFTER THE HOLIDAYS. I'll get back soon. Thanx again. Ms Reynolds

No pressure from me. I'm interested and I'm trying to keep up.

Roger

Yes thank you. I believe that and appreciate you.
I will get back. Ms R

Time to check back with you. Any news?

Thanks,

Roger

My husband husband is working on it as we speak, the
weathee is warmer. I'll give an update when he tells me something.

My husband, Dave, said he followed instructions for testing resistance. "Results indicate no continuity; no resistnce was measured. An open condition is indicated. When the lock, wiring, et al are removed and a break in the wiring is evident, it would seem that the wire could be repaired, e.g.. spliced. depending on its location. What say you?"

Could it be repaired or do we need whole new assembly? o and kkkkkkkkkkkkkkeys etc.

The wire will be broken off at or so close to the lock cylinder case a splice will not be possible. In all my experience I have never seen one that could be spliced.

If no resistance value is detected, or if the value drops out when turning the ignition key through all of it's positions the lock cylinder with white wiring harness must be replaced as an assembly and new keys cut with the chip value of the original key. Of course the new lock cylinder will have a different mechanical cut and all previous ignition keys will be retired.

A lock smith can come to you and do the repair where the car is. You can tow the vehicle to the shop of your choice.

If your husband wants to try this himself, I'll help any way I can.

Roger

Hi Roger,

David would like help in removing the cylinder and check to see where its broken. Are there any graphs or instructions, etc? He said there are no obvious screws, connections or whatever. Can you give any guidance? Thanks

Does your car have a driver's side air bag? Does the steering column tilt and telescope? Do you have steering column tools or access to them?

This will help me get you the correct info.

Please advise,

Roger

Hi Roger,
Thanks for your response. (1) Yes the car has a driver side airbag. (2) The steering tilts but doesn't telescope. (3) I don't have the tools, but my neighbor's son-in-law may have. Will have to check. All help is appreciated.

The handeling of the air bag requires extreme caution. The system must be disabled before repairs are attempted. Disconnecting the battery is not enough!

I'll review what I have for disabling the Supplimental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System and then send you some help.

Roger

What is your email address please? I have some instructions for you to look through.

Thanks,

Roger

I'm sorry - didn't realize the msgs were not coming from you direct. It is [redacted] . Looking forward to any further information. Thanks

PS As I mentioned in my first description, after a new battery was installed, the car immediately started fine and within 5 or 6 minutes of returning to the house and and then trying to restart, this anti-theft
msg pops up. The wires popped during that interim???? What a coincidence!!! Could something else be wrong.

Okay, thanks for the email address. I have some data I will scan to email for you.

After following the instructions I sent previously you found no continuity on the two white wires with the key in the ignition. Coincidence? No doubt! I hear stories about "I just shut it off to refuel...to get milk at the store....went in to church...to pick up my child...and when I came back it won't start!" It says "Wait three minutes", or "Theft Deterrent..."

Car batteries fail in the same way. I drove Cadillac Roadside Service for years. Your story I have lived many times over.

I doubt it is anything else. I'll be stunned if it is.

I'll get started scanning data.

Roger

Hi, Any news here? Just checking in with you...

Roger

Hi Roger, Saw your email....couldn't respond right away.......PC unstable, sometimes can get online, sometimes - not. Anyhoo somebody was to call t'nite about the availabilty of the tools. So far, he hasn't. Inre the seville manual, really don't want to spend that much for 18 year old manual. (outrageous price - besides, we have you!!!!I went to Ebay to have a look and saw a 4.99 CD supposedly of same thing. Don't know if its still there. Things seem to be moving slow around here due to number of reasons, but they will get done. Will stay in touch. Thanx

I'll look for your next message. I want you back in your Cadillac.

I have lived days when I would have paid big money for a shop manual on a car out of warranty. Most of the manuals I own were $65 - $115.00 each from Helm Inc. They are the makers of shop manuals for all makes.

Lets do this,

Roger

HI ROGER, just reporting in.

David has the tool, but it has been brrrrr cold
here, snow and the works. Will keep you posted
as things proceed. Thanks

Thank you. I'm ready to help if needed.

Roger

1990 Cadillac Seville Ignition System   

My 90 Seville has been turning over very slow when hot. It finally quit starting. I replaced the battery, no help, then the starter and solenoid. It still dosen't turn fast enough to start even cold. it seems I'm not getting enough current to the starter. I got these codes E052history, B122current, B552history, R026current, R033history, R061current, and ECM?. Can you help?

Hi, Have you inspected the battery cables to see if corrosion has filled the length of the cable? If corrosion is under the insulation of the cable it will dramatically decrease current flow.

Have you taken the two positive cable ends apart to look for corrosion? One of the cable ends has a removable lead spacer that will pry out of the insulation. With the spacer removed you may see corrosion you didn't know existed.

None of the codes listed are relevant to cranking, or the running of the engine.

Roger

no! i just cleaned the contacts on the cables. i will take the hot cable apart and look. thanks larry

I'm interested in your findings.

Roger

The cable ends are ok no corrosin. I noticed the starter was getting very hot when I tried it. I thought it may be in a bind so I shimmed it starting with 16/1000. I lowered it twice more until it barely made contact with the fly wheel. No difference at any height. Could this be Electrical?
Also this is an Autozone rebuilt starter I may need to try a GM. I'm stumped Larry

The starter may be drawing too many amps due to a shorted winding. Do you have warranty? Replace it.

It is possible to test the starter amp draw while on the car, or on a bench tester.

When you found that the starter gets hot trying to turn my focus is now on the starter alone.

Roger

I have a warrenty. I will replace the starter in the morning and get back with you. Thanks Larry

I believe that will do it for you on this one. Please let me know.

Roger

How did it go with replacing the starter under warranty, please?

Roger

Roger, never turst Autozone to sell you a hot battery or to tell you it's hot for that matter. I took the starter back to Autozone and had them check the battery. It tested good, but either the analyzer tested voltage only or the guy just didn't know what he was doing. I never saw a current(amp) readout. I brought the blamed thing home put it on my charger and the needle fell to 25%. It sat there and charged for 7 hours. I put my old starter back in hooked the battery up and sure enough the car started right up. I have a few words for the store mannager.
Thanks Roger for all your time and your help.
Larry

I'm glad you have your car running again!

Ready to close this question? Please click on the OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

1990 Cadillac Seville Fuel System   

My 1991 Seville 4.5 liter engine stumbles, loses power and misfires, then typically recovers in under 10 seconds. The vehicle is typically up to temp and cruising at about 60 MPH when it happens. Only once has it happened at slower speeds, where it died and ran normally after restarting. I need to know what sensors are likley causing this and don't have a Code Scanner. I'm thinking the MAFS, TPS, MAP, Oxygen, ??? could be responsible, but do not know which devices this 4.5l engine has. Any suggestions or info would be appreciated.

Typically a MAP sensor can cause the stumbling.It might also be as simple as a bit of water in the fuel .(a common problem)
Finding a shop or parts store with a scanner not a bad idea, as guessing at sensors could get expensive!
Some places will scan your car for free.
Your Caddy has all the sensors you mentioned and a bunch more!

The Snapon Code Scanner did not show any relevant codes to this problem. I have since found that at lower speeds, under 60 MPH, I seldom have the problem. I have also noted that some times the engine will completely die and not restart untill I turn the key off and back on. I began suspecting the ECM but thought there would be other evidence of it's failure.

Check the fuel pressure and catalyctic converter for blockage. Neither would show on scaner. ECM does not always set code, maybe 95%

A couple people have now suggested replacing the fuel filter, but there is a pretty good sized hill on my daily commute and it seems to me that climb would use more gas than just cruising. It has never choked / died / lost power on that hill. This afternoon, on my way home, it was ~85 degrees. The first 10 miles were really tough, with frequent problems. Then I slowed (40 MPH) thru a small town, then climbed that hill without a problem the remaining 15 miles to home.

1989 Cadillac Seville Electrical / Lighting Systems Tuning When troubleshooting 

how to set time on cluster. Thank you, Helen Walker

Hello, you should see a "SET" button on your radio. With the ignition key on, hold down the "SET" button until the numbers on the clock are flashing and let go the "SET" button. Then use the "SEEK" and the "Scan" buttons to change the hours and minutes to the correct time and touch "SET" again to restart the clocks new setting.

Any problems?,

Roger

1989 Cadillac Seville Ignition System Malfunction When starting Always

How do you remove the ignition lock cylinder?

Hello, Do you have the Tilt Steering Column? Do you have the Telescope Column feature as well?

This procedure is labor intensive and requires special tools. Do you want to give it a try?

Please advise,

Roger

I will give it a try. It does have tilt steering and the telescopic wheel.

Release the telescope lock by moving the control lever to the right. Tilt the column to it's "straight" position. Remove the horn fuse or disconnect the battery. Remove the horn pad, the telescope locking lever and shaft screw with colar from the center of the steering shaft.

Notice how course the threads are on the colar/screw that you removed from the shaft.

You'll need a screw that will spin down inside the middle of the shaft to lock the telescope feature but allow a tool to mount to the steering wheel to pull the wheel off. You may get the steering wheel off some other way without locking the telescope feature but you'll need to lock the telescope to compress the column lock plate enough to remove the "C" clip that holds the lock plate on.

Remove the steering lock plate and turn signal canceling cam. Remove the turn signal switch control arm. Remove the turn signal switch mounting screws and the Fourway Flasher control button if necessary.

Release the telescope lock and push the shaft as far in as it will go and relock it. Note how the white wires that are the VATS KEY SECURITY SYSTEM to the ignition lock cylinder are positioned in the hole in the turn signal switch so they can move with the rotating of the ignition switch without interferrence. Pull the turn signal switch up toward you far enough to allow you to clear the column shaft, bend the wiring harness so that you can work with the switch out of your way.Remove the ignition key.

With needle nose pliers, pull out the key warning switch and it's tension spring. Remove the screw holding the ignition lock cylinder in place.

Remove the panel below the steering column above the driver's feet. (black close-out panel) Locate the two-wire connector that has only the two white wires coming down the column from the ignition lock cylinder and disconnect it. Attach a trace-wire to be pulled up through the column as you pull the lock cylinder and it's wire harness out so you can pull the new lock cylinder's harness back down through the column as you install the new ignition lock cylinder assembly.

Assembly is reverse order. Have your old key's computer chip read for the correct value (1 thru 15) and have your new keys cut to the new cylinder mechanical code using new blank ignition keys with the same value VATS chip as the keys you are retiring.

After complete reassembly your car should start, but will display THEFT DETERRANT FAULT on the driver's information panel. Shut the car OFF and restart it. The message will go away and you are road ready.

That is alot of procedure for your five bucks but if you can get by where special tools are needed you'll do fine.

A good mobile locksmith can do this for you if you want to avoid the Cadillac Dealer and decide you need help.

Roger

1989 Cadillac Seville Heating / Cooling System   

my 89 sevilles temp gauge is always going up and down, from 170-250 degrees. I have checked fluid levels and changed the themostat and the problem continues, what else should I check or do?

Check/replace the thermostatic switch that controls the electric fan.Sounds like its coming on too late,Its usually mounted on the engine by the thermostat housing.

Have you checked it?

COULD IT BE THE COOLANT TEMP SENSOR IS BAD?

There are three sensors.One coolant sensor for the computer/fuel inj. The other for the guage or light.The last for the fan on rad.I suspect the latter.

1988 Cadillac Seville Engine Overheating When driving Always

I was wondering what the normal temprature of the engine is supposed to be. My cars temp guage fluctuates between 199 and 208 at a normal idle and in heavy traffic has gotten as high as 228. I have noticed the cooling fans are programed to come on at 224. is this a safe opperating range for this engine or is there something wrong. I have replaced the water pump, thermostat, and used GM dex-cool coolant and get the same result. I just need to know if this is a normal temprature range. I have also noticed the tempeature climb 8 to 10 degrees when accelerating. any help is greatly appreciated.

mrzenith@earthlink.net

you need to check the therm temp but as a rule 228 to 235 is usually the temp before the fan kicks in and you will run a little hotter in traffic because there is no air blowing into the radiator at high speeds to cool and hotter if you are running the air conditioner a thermostat that opens at a lower temp would not hurt 180 degrees especially now in the summer
hope this helps macconeck

1983 Cadillac Seville Body   

Need front hood.

Where are you located? Hoods are kinda expensive to ship.
Bruce

Need a front hood for a 1983 cadillac sville.

try www.ebay.com

Does it matter what color hood?

I should be able to find one but want to match you up as best as possible.

Also, if you post your zip code I'll check for a hood that may be available for pick-up.

1980 Cadillac Seville Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving Always

The headlight system is equipped with the Sentinel and Auto Dim. How can I regain manual control of the High Beam system (via the steering column lever). When the sentinel is controlling the lights, based upon degree of darkness, I am unable to manually select High Beam whether the light switch selector is IN or OUT.

Hello, Doesn't the AUTO DIM control dial rotate? You should be able to rotate the control until you feel resistance and then continue to rotate the control to "OFF". (Feels like you are rotating the dash light dimmer control to full bright and then it "clicks" to turn on the interior lights.)

Do you have an owners manual to guide you? The system is called GUIDEMATIC. When it is in the off position one can put the headlights on high beam and then if desired, you turn on the GUIDEMATIC and select the distance from an oncoming car (near or far) at which you want the system to dim your lights automatically.

The Sentinel control dial controls lights on/off and should not prevent dimming control. Seperate systems, seperate controls.

If GUIDEMATIC is malfunctioning you can find the "EYE" behind the grill (at center). It is amber in color and has a wiring harness connector rear of the left front headlamps along the fender under the hood. You can disconnect the "EYE" and plug the ends of the wiring harness together excluding the "EYE" harness. This should give you manual dimming and should not effect the sentinel at all.

Roger

Roger:
Your advice looks promising. I'll check out the items in the next couple and days and get back to you. I expect we'll be able to finalize this at that time
Howard Jacobs
Qualicum Beach,
Vancouver Island

Great, let me know how I may further assist!

Roger

Roger, the system - specifically the High Beams will not illuminate. I am looking for a way to get the lights operating on a purely manual basis. I can do without the sentinel and guidematic. Is there a special sequence I have to use to revert to pure manual operation...so far even with the sentinel and guidematic OFF..the high beam selector lever appears to have no effect?

The headlamp dimmer switch is on top of the steering column near the floor. It is different from one used in a Seville that does not have the Guidematic option so expect that when you go to buy a switch. They do not interchange.

Headlamp wiring color code is three wires at the dimmer switch. A green, a yellow and a tan. You may need a dimmer switch. Have you disconnected the eye in the grille and still can't get high beam? Probably the dimmer switch is at fault but look also at the condition of the switch terminal connector for signs of heat damage.

Roger