Chev 10

1997 Chev 10 Fuel System   

when cold engine won't start, warm it starts okay. It will usually start if you jump start it, prior to jump starting cranking speed is fine

You will need to check for spark during the no start period (engine cold without jumpers attached). Do you have spark?

If you do, do you hear the fuel pump prime when you initially turn the Key On and during Engine Cranking? A fuel pressure gauge would be best for this test, if you have one or can borrow one. Call your local AutoZone and see if they have one available as part of their Tool Loaner Program.

Also visit an AutoZone or Advance Auto and have them check trouble codes to see if any shows up (make sure they check for pending trouble codes too). Let me know which, if any, alphanumeric trouble codes they find. eg- P0300, P0401, etc.

Because the engine tends to start with a jump, this indicates the battery cables/terminals/connection need attention OR something is not powering up until it gets warm enough (the extra voltage from a jump is usually enough to get it started.)

Let me know the results of these tests and we'll continue.

1996 Chev 10 Fuel System   

extended cranking before starting.

Does it matter if the engine is hot or cold?

Or how long the engine has been shut off?

This will make a difference in diagnosis.

After vehicle has been sitting for about 45 mins.

Try holding the acceletor to the floor when you know this problem will repeat (after 45 minutes?). If it start more quickly pull the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator and see if there is evidence of raw fuel (strong smell or wetness). Let me know.

1996 Chev 10 Ignition System   

Would not start yesterday. It was raining. I used starting fluid but it would not ignite. It seemed like it was not getting any spark. It was raining all day. It seemed like it would not start quickly in the mornings the last couple of weeks. Normally cranks up very quickly. I had to have it towed to garage. The truck immediately started for them and would not fail.
They say they could find nothing wrong. Any ideas what
would be typical for a 1996 s-10 vortec 4x4?

The most common cause is the crank sensor for this condition. Were there any trouble codes stored in the computer?

No codes

About the only thing that can be done at this point is to individually mist components with water to see if you can recreate the no-start condition. Did the garage try this?

No but I will mention it to them tomorrow.

1996 Chev 10 Ignition System   

My Altinator checks out good with Auto Zone.Battery is charged but altinator is not sending a charge to battery.What could it be?

Hello,

Always check fuses when you experierence electrical failure.

Next check for positive voltage to the battery post on the alternator. Is this wire okay?

Also check the connector and wires for the small wires that go to the alternator. Give me an update and we'll continue...

1994 Chev 10 Fuel System Chugging When accelerating When warm 

S-10 Blazer 4X4, 4.3L W; Acceleration (after warm and stopping or slowing) is sluggish almost like misfiring or loss of compression. Codes 34,37, and 45. MAP replaced, no change; O2 Sensor not replaced because code denotes rich mixture. My concern is possibility of head gasket problem but with rich mixture I am puzzled a bit ... what should I do next other than compression check? Could this be a fuel pressure regulator problem?

u can check fuel pressure but would look into the o2 sensor if bad will give false reading also check slack in timing chain do you see black smoke coming out of exhaust

1994 Chev 10 Fuel System   

We have 1994 Chev s-10 p/u 4 cy, 2.2 liter, 2 wheel dr. Changed starter, changed fuel pump. checked fuel pump fuse, it's good. In process in checking ignition switch. But where is the fuel pump relay switch??? Been working hours on this. It it's not the ignition then we assume it's the relay switch. But where is it?

The relay should be in the underhood relay box.

First things first though, have you confirmed there is spark to the spark plugs?

yes there is spark in the spark plugs,
We cannot find the relay box under the hood. Please tell us where the relay box is located. Thanx

Sorry, the fuel pump relay is located in the Convenience Center-- under the dash, drivers side of steering column.

Copy and Paste the following links into your Address Bar-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/18/c1/

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/18/ba/4[redacted] ba42.jsp

We replaced the fuel pump fuse and it worked for a while,now the fuses keep burning out. Does this have anything to do with the carburator?

No, not likely. By the way your vehicle has fuel injection, not a carburetor.

The fuse blows for two reasons. One is a short in the wiring to the fuel pump (usually under the vehicle between the fuel tank and front of vehicle). The other is when the fuel pump wears out and draws to many amps.

1993 Chev 10 Drive Train / Driveline   

I drove my 93 s10 pickup this morning to plow snow. Stupidy, I had 2 different diameter front tires on. As soon as i got on the snowy road i could hear binding noises from the drive train. I pulled over and took it out of 4wd and went home and put both same size tires on. Everything was ok for the next 5 hours. Then I heard noises from the drivetrain again. It kept getting worse. NOw it is all f'ed up. When driving on a high traction surface in 2wd, the whold truck vibrates a lot now(sounds like a train going down the track). When in 4wd low gear it feels like one of the front tires is bucking or pulling more than the other wheels. Also, there are noises that make it sound like gears or parts could be ripped apart at any minute. I drove it for about 10 miles like this. I need help to determine which part or parts or the driveline are screwed up. I also need help on how to check each component of the driveline(hopefully without having to remove them from the truck first). Please help with as much detail as possible. Thanks. Jim.

There are clutches in the differentials when there is posi and clutches in the transfer case (attached to the rear of the transmission)The transfer case also has a large drive chain inside. Probably is a transfer case problem, easiest to fix by replacing it with a used one.

So, you think it's a transfer case problem. Is there a way I can check the transfer case by turning anything or looking at anything? Or can it only be determined by taking it out or the truck? What is the easiest way for me to know if it is the trasfer case?

With all four tires off the ground,and the truck securely supported, start it up and try shifting in high and low, while listening to the transfer case, as that is probably where most of the noise is coming from

Ok, I will try to support it so the wheels are off the gound and listen. If it is the bad part and I replace it. is it possible something else could be bad too? IF something else is bad and i drive it on the road is there any chance that i could screw up the new transfer case that i would have just replaced?

99% that the front differential has positraction, unless someone added it.
If there is a problem with differential, it will not affect transfer case.
The problem was not the difference in tire size side to side, but diference in tire size front to rear.
4X4 trucks MUST utilize same size tires on all four wheels and Must have same gear ratios in front and rear differentials, if you plan on changing anything there in the future.

1989 Chev 10 Chassis / Suspension & Steering  When braking Always

when braking the van makes a left turn the front calipers and front brakes have been changes one cross over line that was leaking was replaced front rotors were resurfaced and the perportion valve was changed compleate system blead rear brakes adjusted I am a loss as to what is going on any ideas thanks olen

Hello, With new calipers the chance of a stuck caliper piston is doubtful, but the hoses that connect the front calipers to the steel brake lines on the frame can cause a restriction and effect a "pull to the left" when braking. Have you changed these lines?

Also, the front rotors must not have any bit chatter from the brake machine that they are turned on. Chatter will have the visual appearance much like the grooves on a vinyl record album. A pull to the left can indicate the right front rotor is not smooth enough and therefore not as effective.

Roger

Hello, What is happening here, please?

Please advise,

Roger

hello rodger I am sorry that I have not got back to you as I had a death in the familey and have not been able to attend to the van because I was out of town but I am now back in town and plan to attend to it some time this week thanks for your time and I will reply soon

Thanks, just let me know when you get the time.

Roger

1978 Chev 10 Engine Upgrade  

originaly family purchased 1978 c-10 sht Bd only with a 250 6 20 yrs ago and now has a new 70 LT-1 rbld 350 4 Bbl T-350 Shift kit but need to know what needs to be done to make this smog legal for calif smog cert,s Dmv Sucks but all around frame up restore Help please

i have access to wrecking yards and etc but i need to know if this could be a leagal upgrade

in california there is a law that dmv cannot make you go over 500.00 to smog your car/truck you can make an appointment with dmv officials who will then look under your hood and tell you what they want in order to give out registration do what they ask most parts you can obtain through a junkyard and they are not experts if it looks good to them they will think it is original my advice is to put in all the smog conponets you can and have it inspected you will be suprised how sweet it is

1969 Chev 10 Ignition System   

After engine re-stallation (1969 Z28 302ci) after a rebuild engine was started. Engine started normally, but made a brief loud shreik from the starter. After running for about 30 seconds, positive battery cable to the starter began smoking. Engine then shut off as if it were turned off. Starter would no longer turn over. The starter/solenoid were tested and OK.
A check shows that no current is getting to the S (switch) terminal on the starter solenoid when the igition key is turned to start. A jumper wire was then touched to the S terminal and the engine cranked normally. Ignition switch problem?

Poss ignition switch or wire. Test to ensure full voltage getting to starter at s terminal 1969 was a long time and many starts ago.Certainly could be starter. Ensure starter not binding. They make shims for that.

Zero volts are getting to the S (switched terminal) on the starter solenoid from the wire that I believe runs to the ignition switch in the steering column.
Jumping a wire from the + bat post to the S terminal does turn the starter normally. How can I check the ignition switch? Any fuses in this circuit.

No fuses in circuit.
Ignition switch easily tested with test light. When testing, leave connected and wiggle plug.The individual wire should be easily replaced.
If the Truck is your pride and joy, you might want to replace the wiring harness with one from Painlss Performance.They are 100% quality and easy to install.