Chev 1500 Pick-up

1997 Chev 1500 Pick-up Chassis / Suspension & Steering  When braking Always

I need a diagram of how the rear brake shoes goes on a chevrolet 2 wheel drive silverado 1500

Did you make the mistake of disassembly of both sides at the same time?? Also beware of the long shoe/short shoe .. If you tow a boat or trailer on a routine basis the long shoe (about 1 inch longer) goes toward the front bumper, if you do not tow much the factory specifications have the short shoe towards the front (allows for smooth operation). Pass me an email address and I will see what I can do to email you a picture to follow.

Both shoes are the same size, and they all match the ones I bought, I just need a picture of the passenger side. my son made the mistake of taking the other side off.

Well if you have the drivers side still assembled then you can use that to look at. The system is identical on both sides or you need to send me an email address so I can scan and forward a pic for u to follow. Some trucks have the long shoe issue to contend with that is why I brought it up.

I just told you my son took the drivers side off after I took the passenger side off, I took 1 pair of shoes to


advanced auto to make sure I had the right ones. I need a picture of how 1 side or the other goes on, please specify which side your sending me E:MAIL [redacted]

1996 Chev 1500 Pick-up Fuel System Won't Start When starting When warm 

When cold car starts right up. After running during warm/humid temps car will not restart till cools down. Had trouble last fall when hot out, trouble went away all winter now has returned with warm temps. What's Up?

Hi;
Have you ran a diagnostics test and see what the codes are. There could be a couple of possibilities. One it can be an ignition problem. The other it can be a fuel problem. Please send me back the results from the diagnostics and then I can better help you figure it out. Good Luck Les.

Hello, When the condition is present does the starter turn over the engine but the engine won't start, or, is it that the starter won't do anything until things cool down?

What engine, please? Have you had the starter amp draw tested? It should not exceed 175amps draw. Battery cable connections clean and tight? Is the battery big enough for the vehicle (cold cranking amps)?

Please advise,

Roger

Starter turns over fine, car might start(run) for a second then quit and not restart, until the weather is cool, after sundown, etc., usually 80+ degrees is the killer. Chev 4.3 v6, cables clean and tight, Battery fine. Does warm weather effect battery performance?

Warm weather effects starter amp draw but your starter is working so I doubt the battery is at fault.

When the condition is present I would want to attach a scanner (not a code reader) and see the value of the crankshaft sensor. This sensor can drop out in high temperatures and never set a code. If the scanner shows an incorrect value for this sensor, that is where I would start. A wrong value here means no spark.

I've actually sprayed a hot (still connected) crank sensor with brake parts cleaner to cool it down and got a stranded vehicle to start right up. I replaced the sensor and that was that.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

It's gonna be hot tomorrow, I'll pick up a can of air, and give it a shot, u might be on to something, I'll reply tomorrow, so give me something to reply to.
Thanks

What I used was a can of brake parts cleaner. It comes out cool and evaporates quickly. It is a solvent, so be aware of what will wash off and where it will drip onto the ground or driveway.

It is not an "always works" method but an inexpensive thing to try if you don't have a scanner.

Roger

Hello, any change in the status of this question?

Just checking in with you,

Roger

Still need help here?

Thanks,

Roger

1995 Chev 1500 Pick-up Drive Train / Driveline  When repairing 

I got a 95 k1500 w/bad transfer case 421c assy #1598 6096 ratio 272, the question is can i use transfer case out of 90 sierra 421c assy #1560 4178 ratio 272 also how can i tell the spline count in these new process transfer cases thanks vince

Hi;
As far as I can remember the spline count should be the same. The only thing that will make the difference is the size of the out shaft. Not the ID but the OD. If you can use a set of calipers to check the size this will help. If you have the drive shaft that came out of the one you are putting in the u-joints are the same size. Just use the output shafts out off the new transfer case. Good Luck Les.

Hello, Will you please clarify something so I may try to help?

You state the TCs to be "421c", could they actually be "241c"?

Trying to research,

Roger

it is 241 thanks

What a relief! Now I can get busy. It may have been the reason others have not been responding to your question sooner.

Roger

No luck today. I went to one of the largest Chevy Dealers in our state and gave the info to the parts department.

The part numbers from your printed message did not find a response in their data base. I was told that the spline count would not be in the info the parts dept has.

I then spoke to the service manager and asked him to teach me how to determine the spline count without disassembly of the TC. All he could offer was that a larger OD out shaft has a higher spline count.

Monday, when the sidewalks roll back out, I'll be contacting a four wheel truck center and a truck salvage to see if I can find a chart that says what model/year range the 90 Sierra TC you talked about will fit. Someone has a book somewhere.

Any four wheeler clubs in your area? Some sixteen year old knows what we need (at 16 they know everything) and if he is sober we might have a chance.

Back Monday,

Roger

Today I talked to men who told me that the 90 model 241C will work in your 95 K1500 Chevy if you use the front drive shaft from the 90 model also.

The only real difference is how the front drive shaft is connected to the TC. The 90 model uses a flat platform with a ring of attaching bolts. The 95 has the "U"-shaped yoke that cradles the universal joints.

The 90 model uses the 241C New Process TC. The 95 uses the 241C New Venture TC. Ratios are the same as you stated.

No one really addressed the spline count issue/question. I was advised that the using of the 90 model front drive shaft would eliminate the spline count concern.

I have exploded view graphics on each of these TCs if you want them. Do you have a FAX number?

Thoughts?,

Roger

roger,fax # is [redacted] , thanks alot the exploded views would be great
vince

Vince, Sorry for the delay. I had my gall bladder surgically removed today. I'm pretty sore.

FAX to follow.

Roger

1995 Chev 1500 Pick-up Engine   

Truck has 116,000 miles with a complete tune up at 87,000. Truck runs fine until put in overdrive (manual) then it seems to lose power and does not hold speed. Changed fuel filter which made it better, threw a code for EGR valve, which was disconnected. Now truck runs worse, engine misses in all gears, when a slight load is put upon the engine.

This is a 4.3 V6 with Flow Master exhaust.

Good choice of exhaust! Some egrs are designrd, that when disconnected, are open all the time.Having exhaust gas recirculation at low speeds, will give all the symptoms you describe.Solution?
Replace the EGR valve.

Replacing the EGR valve was my next step. I was not sure if there was a potential underlying issue. I plan to help my college graduate move from Florida to Colorado using my 'ol truck.

Exhaust gas circulation, is such a bad concept from a performance standpoint, that I hate it. But it does help emissions,
Watch for excessive carbon buildup under it.

1995 Chev 1500 Pick-up All Part Groups   

how do i fix my 1995 chev pick up auto trans has no reverse foreward gears fine

Hello, Check the fluid level. Check the shift linkage to be sure when you select reverse that the linkage does indeed put the tranny in reverse mode.

Reverse is the first thing in the case on build up assembly. If the above checks out you'll likely need overhaul or replacement of the transmission.

I doubt a scanner would help here for doing the diagnostics yourself. A professional transmission technician will guide you more accurately than I can.

Roger

1994 Chev 1500 Pick-up Engine Won't Start Happens sometimes When cold

Problem intermittent, vehicle ran OK for father but has been parked for two years. First replaced dead battery and added five gallons of fresh gas and a good dose of methyl hydrate, after several attempts to start the engine started though a bit rough. I drove it around for a half hour or so then parked it, three hours or so later, engine turns over but doesn't fire up. I removed the air filter and adapter ring, and inserted a dry piece of paper under both injectors and the paper remained dry. I removed the fuel line at the throttle body and turned the engine over and observed clean fuel from the line. I then drained the tank, flushed the fuel-line and replaced the filter. The engine turned over though still refused to start I then tried starting fluid the engine fired over yet failed to start, further attempts showed that the engine would run as long as a constant flow of starting fluid was supplied and died when the flow was discontinued. I gave up and skipped a day and tried the day after with a quick squirt of starting fluid not really expecting results but the engine fired over right away and stayed running after a few revs, the engine ran smoothly for 20 minutes or so and I restarted several times successfully and again ten minutes later then twenty minutes after that. I broke off thinking all was well, but a few hours later, it was refusing to run again and now here I sit, perplexed and looking for help.

Engine is a V6 4.3L throttle-body injection with 43,000Km

These engines have a lot of problem with hard starting due to weak fuel pressure. Replace your fuel pump and filter and it should good to go.

Thanks for the fast reply, buddy, but I stated that it was NOT starting now, *Period* certainly 'hard starting' in the extreme. Also, I Did replace the filter, first thing, as stated in my description. But if this still sounds 'classic' to you, and the stock fuel pump is so fraught with issues, is there an in-line replacement or add-on booster available? What would your charge be with shipping to PO Box 1871, Sechelt BC VON 3A0 on the Sunshine Coast, Mainland BC. or Via Bus to the Sechelt depot

If the truck starts only with starting fluid, you have an obvious fuel problem. If you have power and ground to the pump while cranking, you will need to replace the pump.

I do not have available any in line add-on pumps, check with your local parts supplier.

I DO appreciate that fact. I Thank You for your patience.
I can hear the stock pump running (sound issues from fuel tank) for 2-3 sec followed by a click-stop sound which I assume this is the pressure regulator at work turning off the pump, since it always occurs after ignition is turned on and/or returned from the start to the run position. If this is correct, shouldn't the engine attempt to fire after the pump supplies the correct pressure even if it is incapable of maintaining the correct pressure and/or flow? If so, this is not happening. Is there a component other than the ECM (or whatever) that could (if faulty) cause the throttle body injectors not to fire, yet leave the timing and ignition able to function using starting fluid ?
I ask this as I am unsure yet, which traditional trouble-shooting methods don't apply to fuel injected systems.

Do you have proper fuel pressure? This engine needs 60psi or it WILL not start. Have you done a fuel pressure test?

The 3 second run time is preprogrammed by the computer whether there is fuel pressure or not. Obviously your wiring is good. Sounds like low fuel pressure to me.

Not yet, I was hoping to find a difinitive answer without testing the pressure as I don't have the tool for that pressure. :-L But Common sense told me it would be the only way to confirm whether the pump was the problem or not. I'll check the pressure then.

You can either change the pump, or get a fuel pressure gage to tell the pump is bad. There is no way to tell with out a gage whether you have 50psi or 65psi. It make all the difference.

You could remove the fuel return line and if no fuel comes out from the engine while cranking, you likely have a bad pump.

Weeeeellll... I drained & cleaned the tank, replaced the pump & filters, re-attached the battery, purged the line to the throttle body... still no go, -Doug-

Doug,
What is the fuel pressure? Does the truck start with a strong shot of starting fluid?
Can you still hear the pump running?
Dale

I don't have a data interface nor a fuel pressure tester, so at your advice, I replaced the pump. I can hear it pump and there is a strong flow at the throttle connection but the injectors aren't injecting. I did notice that after I reconnected the battery and turned the ignition on, there was evidence that the injectors had sprayed a few times then stoipped. Yes the engine fires on ether but doesn't run. I was going to disconnect the fuel return at the throttle body to see if the regulator may be plugged somehow. I was wondering if the ECM could have been damaged when the battery was going dead and we had to boost it, and ultimately replace the battery.

This site says the issue was settled, but it isn't as I have yet to recieve a resolution to this issue. The Battery was replaced before this problem occured as the truck was in storage.

I'm having difficulty updating because your site says "accepted". I have to 'refresh from 'history' to ask or update. Does this mean you give up? Hardly fair if so...

Hi Doug,
My name is Dale. (ASE mastertech)
I have been advising you on your truck.
I work for ALL-PARTS as a tech in addition to my regular job. The problem you are having is through the ALL-PARTS site. They believe you have accepted the advice and that all is well. I will address this with the site administrator to see if he can reopen your request. In the mean-time, you can open the return line from the injectors and see if there is fuel flow when the pump runs. The pump is supposed to pump extra and the pressure regulator is supposed to bleed off the extra so as to keep the pressure at the injectors at a steady 60psi. If there is return, then either there is a different problem, or the regulator is bleeding off too much fuel.

Thanks Dale, that's what I was wondering. There are no leaks in the system, and I don't know what the 'something else wrong' could be, If the regulator is allowing too much fuel to bleed, is there an adjustment? Or is it a replacement? If the regulator is not allowing fuel to bleed, can an over-pressure situation cause the injector to fail to open? And lastly, is there a cold start bleed into the throttle body such that the injectors fail to initialize when engine fails to fire over? 8-D oug

Doug,
The regulators are not adjustable. Overpressure will cause the engine to flood. The injectors fire with a pulse from the computer. There should be power to the injectors whenever the key is on and the computer supplies the ground to provide spurts of fuel.

Lets backup a bit. Do we have strong spark from the end of the plug wires when cranking?

Remove the air cleaner so you can see the fuel injectors. Can you see them spray any fuel when cranking?

If you have spark, but no fuel, then use a test light to check if there is power coming to the fuel injector when the key is on. Check both sides. Ohm the 2 injectors to see if the resistance is nearly the same. Ideally, get a noid light to see if the injectors are being turned on. They should flash brightly when cranking.

Feel free to respond with your answers. We want to see this truck run!
Dale

Sorry I've been out looking after an elder family member and just got back to civilization (with internet)

Dale,
Your Pump Pressure is a tad off. For this V6 4.3L throttle-body injection engine the pump is required to produce 9-14psi (which both pumps I now own pass), Not the 65psi you stated, I did find however that the hi-pressure pump is required for V8 multi-port engines.

The correct pressure of fuel does flow to the throttle body,
then subsequently through the return line to the tank,
The injectors are not metering fuel,
There is sufficient "spark" as the engine fires over when starting fluid or pressurized gasoline vapor is applied.
I will next test the injectors as you've now provided the info I needed to proceed safely.

I'll update you presently regarding the results.

8-D oug

Doug,
So this is a throttle body injection vin Z? WOW, did I mess that up! I was giving specs for the vortec engine, vin W which is Majorly different.

On the throttle body engine, we have seen trouble with the injectors at times. First check that the injector has power on the one wire with the key on. (There is a fuse for the 2 injectors and they will blow if the wires are frayed under the air cleaner) If that is OK, watch for injector spray from each injector while cranking. If both are not spraying, unplug one and check the other, then replug and check the other side. (A bad injector can shut down the computer driver for both)

Since it runs on starting fluid, the spark and other systems are obviously OK.

When we have this truck running, I suggest you record that you do not want to pay for the answer. I feel my mistake is big enough to not merit any payment. BUT I will continue to give my best to get you on the road again.
Dale

I tested the injectors. Both had + battery voltage to the driver side post and there was a 12v drop across the injector contacts while cranking but they both refused to meter fuel. I actuated them using the tester and they each produced a conical spray pattern, yet after re-connecting the leads to the injectors they still did not function. I noticed a 0.1v drop between the negative post of each injector. I then attached a 1/8amp fused micro-switch between ground and each negative injector post in turn. While cranking I closed the switch first on one injector then setup the other and tested it in the same way, both in turn produced conical spray patterns. After removing this home-made tester and reconnecting the proper injector leads then cranking the engine fifteen seconds or so, the engine started and idled smoothly with the injectors functioning well. after two minutes I rabbited the throttle and noticed the conical spray increased proportionally. However, the injectors would falter then cutout entirely after exceeding about 3500 rpm. The injectors would sometimes kick in when the rpms dropped and other times failed to kick in until the engine was cranked for several seconds. Therefore I left the engine idling for several minutes until the engine began warming up, then it would stall, after re-starting several times and continuing to stall each time after a couple of minutes idling, the injectors again failed to meter fuel.

Could the ECU possess a faulty IC and
intermittently correct or reinitialize after shorting the injector's negative lead to ground?

8-D oug

Now we are getting close. Use an ohm meter to check the fuel injector resistance. It is to be 1.3 ohms. I would think 1.2-1.5 to be acceptable. If either of these injectors are out of range, they can shut the computer down. (try to test this at a time when they refuse to fire) If both are OK, then it is a faulty computer.

Dale

I had this same scenario with a Ford I owned several years back I was told then that the only way to test for an intermittant fault in a ECU is to replace it with a known working unit, I don't suppose you know where I can lay my hands on one at a DEEP discount?
Thanks
8-D oug

If the wires and the injectors are good, then the fault must be with the computer. There would be a possibility of a cracked wire between the computer and the injectors, but your symptoms match a failed computer best. I can get you a used one for $75+shipping.

I'll check the continuity, as soon as I can, and get back to you.

I've had work done here with 'reputable' shops, especially Dealerships, delivering far less than satisfactory results (to be kind).

Your professionalism is far superior to that displayed by auto services to be had locally. The only fault I can attribute to this transaction is either in my ability to communicate the facts to your satisfaction, or possibly your interpretation of the information I have provided,

At any rate, regardless of the outcome, at this point I feel I am receiving quality in your service, as a result, rather than decline my original deposit as you suggested, I am more likely to add to my payment. Pobody's Nerfect after all, but you seem to posses an abnormal level of integrity (positive), which I am sad to say is somewhat lacking in the service industry today (including the one I belong to)
Warm Regards,
.............8-D oug.....................

Well, the resistance of both injectors is 1.30 ohms exactly. Well I guess I'll need the ECU replaced after all. Please let me know how much(including s&h to Doug Netzlaw @ PO Box 1871 Sechelt BC V0N 3A0) you want me to pay and your preferred denomination and method. I need to go to Vancouver Saturday returning th 29th. It would please me immensely to be able to get the truck running before July first.
Thanks.

..............8-D oug................."

Prefered method is Paypal. Credit is also an option. E-mail me direct, or pay Paypal--- [redacted]
It will be $35 to get to you on time. US$110 total.
Dale

Phone is [redacted] if you prefer.

I sent the VIN etc. along with the Paypal payment.
*****************
I'm not sure if this is important or not but the red battery icon was lit the whole time the engine was running the other day.
*****************

What would cause that, other than a faulty alternator circuit?
*****************
Would a faulty ECU have anything to do with that?
*****************
regards
..........8-D oug........

Should be the alternator or wire. The computer is not tied into that alternator.
Dale

As I supposed, jeesh the issues keep piling up. I'll be leaving town in the morning and I was interested in the method you are using to send the part.
regards,

.............8-D oug................"

Since your address is a PO Box, I will be using postal service.

Great, thanks Dale.

............ 8-D oug .............

The other option would be by Bus, to to the Sechelt bus depot for Sechelt Appliance Service, But postal should get it here before the 29th.

Have a good weekend,

.......... 8-D oug ..........

Sent,
#lc[redacted] us

Thanks for taking my call Dale. the reason I had assumed that you were in BC Canada, was due to the following notification found at the bottom of each Q&A website page...
.
.
© Copyright 2005 - 2006
All rights reserved
All-Parts Autoparts Inc.
1035 Belmont Ave.
Victoria, BC Canada
V8S 3T5

I even forgot that was the base.
Dale

Dale, as the battery had been disconnected for the last two weeks, all I had to do was install the ECU and reconnect the battery then the ignition. But all is as it was with the original ECU, the injectors are not metering any fuel. ???????

Doug,
OK (not ok)

Lets review what the computer needs to fire the injectors.

#1 Power and ground. Quick check, does the "service engine soon" light turn on when the key turns on?

#2 Does the computer respond by flashing code 12 when pins A&B are jumped in the diagnostic connector. They are beside each other at one end of the connector, black/white and white/black wires. When jumped together (paper clip), and the key is on, the "service engine soon" light should flash on 1x, then 2x, then repeat itself 2 more times. If there are any more codes, they will follow.

#3 Throttle position sensor. This should read 1/2 to 1 volt when backprobed with the key on. (dark blue) Should be 5 volts between gray and black wires.

#4 RPM signal. The computer needs to receive and process the engine speed signal from the distributor. Use a test light connected to 12V and tap the purple/white wire at the distributor. The injectors should fire. If so, the problem is likely in the ignition module or pickup coil or related wiring.

#5 If still no injector fire, either broken wires between the computer and the throttle body, or power or ground to the computer. Needs 12V on orange always at pin E16.
Needs 12V on pnk/blk, key on at E15, F15
Needs ground on blk/white at A1
Needs ground on tan at A12

Let me know.
Dale

>>REPY FROM DOUG<<<

Lets review what the computer needs to fire the injectors.

#1 Power and ground. Quick check, does the "service engine soon" light turn on when the key turns on?

---Yes---

#2 Does the computer respond by flashing code 12 when pins A&B are jumped in the diagnostic connector. They are beside each other at one end of the connector, black/white and white/black wires. When jumped together (paper clip), and the key is on, the "service engine soon" light should flash on 1x, then 2x, then repeat itself 2 more times. If there are any more codes, they will follow.

---Using the ECM you sent yes. then The following Codes 59 67 & 82. Using the original ECM only the code 12 is displayed. Which makes no sense using the code definitions provided in the Repair Manual ---

#3 Throttle position sensor. should read 1/2 to 1 volt when backprobed with the key on. (dark blue) Should be 5 volts between gray and black wires.

---Ok, ----

#4 RPM signal. The computer needs to receive and process the engine speed signal from the distributor. Use a test light connected to 12V and tap the purple/white wire at the distributor. The injectors should fire. If so, the problem is likely in the ignition module or pickup coil or related wiring

---Injectors fire OK ---

#5 If still no injector fire, either broken wires between the computer and the throttle body, or power or ground to the computer. Needs 12V on orange always at pin E16.
Needs 12V on pnk/blk, key on at E15, F15
Needs ground on blk/white at A1
Needs ground on tan at A12

Let me know.
8-D oug

Look inside the distributor cap. The rotor and shaft should be rotating and there should be no visible damage to the components. The pickup coil can now be tested. Disconnected, it should read 1/2-1VAC when cranking the engine. If not, it has failed. (I believe resistance is to be about 800 ohms) If it is ok, there the module is most likely failed. Make sure there is good continuity (no shorts or opens) on the 4 wires from the distributor to the computer.
Purple/white A4
Black/red A5
Tan/black B2
White F11

The module receives the pulses from the pickup coil and generates the spark with them AND sends them to the computer (on purple/white) to fire the injectors and to adjust the spark timing, (white) but only after the computer sends an OK signal on tan/black wire.

I am suspecting the module or wiring, because although you have spark (pickup ok?) you are not getting a strong RPM signal to the computer on purple/white. Now is when a scanner could tell us about what the computer believes the RPM is.

You could scope the purple/white wire. There should be a 6 volt square wave signal from the module to the computer about 12x/second while cranking.

So, here's the conundrum, it seems that the pickup coil is reading as open, yet the engine still fires over on starter fluid???? How? There appears no way to short to ground.

Looks like I have to pull the distributor assy. Plbbbbbbttttt !!!

The pickup is a magnet wound with wire. The 2 leads should have continuity to each other. They should generate the A/C signal when cranking.

I never heard of an engine firing with a bad pickup, the spark is what seems to be missing first. However, we have what we have!?!

I am fully aware of the concept as similar coils are used in the solenoid and small motor/inductor circuits. Though some of these have near-infinite resistance, this particular coil should be between five hundred and fifteen hundred ohms. As this meter is new and tests within +/- 0.005 ohms. The fault if the reading is incorrect would be caused by the tricky angle and nine basic yoga positions required to test the continuity. Rest assured I will triple check the reading before pulling the distributor assembly.

Unfortunately, the distributor must come out and be disassembled to replace that little piece. If you pull it out, mark your rotor position and distributor position before removing it. Also, I recommend replacing it with genuine GM or Delco parts. We want it to live another 10 years before any more such problems. It seems with the the coil disconnected, that the 2 wires should be fairly easy to reach. Disconnecting it will be the most difficult.
Dale

1994 Chev 1500 Pick-up Engine   

Engine does not want to accelorate under hard pedal pressure.

Hello
Sounds like a timing problem. I would try a tune up first though. A good carb or fuel injecter cleaner. Does it do it from a complete start, hill, or tring to pass.
Heavychevy

This is what I have done. New cap and rotor, switched coils, Changed dist. pickup,Checked ignition module,fuel pressure is good regulator is good. Checked ECM. Dropped Exh. to check for plugged converter. Number 1 insulator on plug is black wich seems to be related to ignition. Timing is good

Hi, Is it starving for fuel due to a restricted fuel filter?

Could the catalytic converter or the muffler be restricted? If the engine can't breathe it won't accelerate.

Your thoughts?

Roger

Fuel filter is new and I dropped the exhaust at the ex mantifolds to check for plugged cat

Hello

Try replacing the oxygen sensor. A weak signal from the sensor may be causing your problem. It can cause poor acceleration.
My advice would be to change the O2 sensor if everything checked out good like you said.
Heavychevy

This vehicle does not have o2 sensors

what exactlly do you mean by no oxygen sensor

Look on the exhaust pipe ahead of the catalytic convertor for a spark plug sized sensor screwed into the pipe.

I did find an o2 sensor. It seems to switch normal but under hard accel. the numbers in mv stay around 35

http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Fuel/VacuumGauge/index.htm

try this real quick it may help

The vaccum ia steady at 20 at High idle and engine is failing the vaccum is almost 0

leaking intake manifold sounds like unplug the brake booster vacuum line and see if there is an improvement

It does not help to disconnect booster

ok its a leaking intake manifold. good thing you have a mv and know what it is and how to hook it up.

how did you arrive at that. I need to find the leak,what is the best method

if its a steady lower than normal at idle it will be intake. normal range is about 20 at low and with it lowering to 0 than its intake vacuum leak.

Try retorquing the intake manifold bolts, working from the center out.

A test option which is easy and inexpensive I do not recommend though do to the flammbility of such items near spark plugs and such is to spray carbcleaner on suspected leak points while the engine is idling. If there is a leak, the solvent will be drawn into the engine. The idle speed will suddenly change and smooth out. Not recommended though but easy.

The vaccum is 20 at idle at very high idle 3 or 4 thousand RPM it is near 0 and the engine is pulsing going from low to high rpm. It is straining to try to advance but can t

Check to see if there are any vacuum leaks thats about all can gather from the readings.

ok

just let me know what you find and we can go from there

The left injector is plugged I was watching the injectors while idling it high and the left one clearly is not giving enough gas I sprayed carb cleaner in that port and it smoothed right out

Sounds like an easy fix. Just glad you got it figured out.
Heavychevy

Thanks for your help

Your welcome. Hope everything goes well for you.
Heavychevy

Hello
Just doing a follow up checking on the pick-up.
Heavychevy

I found a large leak at the intake mantifold so I changed the gasket. This helped performance greatly but still has the same lack of power when you put your foot on the gas althought it takes more pedal pressure to make it stumble. I noticed that both injectors quit spraying when this happens where do I go frome here

The pickup coil generates an ac signal (as the dist turns) that is converted to a dc signal by the ignition module. This dc signal is used by the ecm to create the injector pulse.You need to check pickup coil, ignition module and ECM. The ground for the injectors is either at the intake manifold or tstat housing so check for a bad ground there.You can put a volt meter on ac voltage on the pickup coil and ecm and turn the engine over to see if it is working cant remember all the specifications though but roughly around 12 volts. Any these can become craked or corroded causing one or more injecters to act funny. You can get the voltage off the known good one and compare it to the ones acting up.
Heavychevy

I checked the ignition mod and coil I will check for grounds

just let me know and we can go from there

I have a wire tester that tests computer signals and d voltage. On the pink wire from Dist to coil is a good pusle no drop outs. Same going to TBI have 12 volts to everything.

The only thing I can think of is bad injecters or it may be possible you may have gotton ahold of some bad fuel. How long has this been going on? With everything showing good and essintial parts changed I am really guessing fuel or something in the fuel.

It may be possible that if it ever set for awile without running the gas in the injecters got gummed up.

I was thinking about fuel myself i have some fuel dryer I think I will add some and get more gas.

let me know the if it helps

No that did nt help but what is the resistance for a spark plug wire 28 inches long I measured 9.17 Kv. The reason I ask I I have a miss at idle it is intermittent but fairly consistent.It does not miss under load.

should 3-5k per foot

I guess wires are ok

I know we used to get cars in all the time with people driving them at low speeds and short distances complaining of decreased power and accelerstion and we would take the out on a strech of highway and run them hard for awile and blow any of the carbon out just maybe.
Heavychevy

It has a intermittent surge at idle and When I open the throttle plate with the engine running to reproduce the stumbling I spray carb. cleaner in the TBI but it does not run any better so it is not starved for gas when this happens

are any valves ticking? If it was any sensor or anything electrical it would send a signal to change fuel rate and flow but by spraying carb cleaner and it not running better you can rule out any bad emmisions. bad exhaust valve maybe or evan dirty. This one is really stumping me. Have you ever adjusted the valves or thought about it.

No I have not adjusted the valves but I did notice when I changed the valve covers that this engine is in the early stages of being a slugg motor. There are slugg deposits on rockers and when I changed the intake gasket I noticed more slugg in the valley.

I would take covers off and while its running monitor everything and see if I could see any unusual activity and I would get something to clean the slugg out. All kinds of stuff are out there for that.

I pulled the valve cover off the left side and all the valves are moving. Should I rejust the valves

Just untell it smoothes out but remember where you started from so you can always go back if it doesnt need adjusting.

I have both valve covers off. This engine appears to have bad oil seals on the valve stem it smokes for awhile then stops. I think that s from oil leaking down the valvel stem right. The right bank has some valve noise although the valves are moving.

Thimk you found the main problem after all that trouble shooting. Sounds like you need some valve work done I would replace with new heads and valves or if you are ski;;ed you might can tackle it. Get back with me on what you do

but from communicating with you its sounds like you are pretty knowlegdable about autos I am thinking you could replace it all with no problem.
Heavychevy

Truck died and would not start. NO panel lights no power to ignition switch. Waited 10 min and it started again. Problem is electrical ignition switch has been replaced could be a fuseable link that powers ignition where are trouble areas for this truck.

sounds like bad connection from battery to starter.

I'll look

let me know outcome

If you mean the high tension positive that is possible but that would not make the truck die would it. I am looking for something that causes a miss at idle, a sudden lose of power when the pedal is pressed too hard(could be junk in the gas tank I dumped some black stuff out of a new fuel filter). I am wondering what made the truck die. The heads do need new oil seals but the valve train seems to be working ok. It seems the dieing,missing and engine studer could be related or maybe there is junk in the gas tank and some electrical problem I don't know. The only thing I hav nt changed is the wires as far as the miss is concerned. The dieing could be related to stuff in the tank.

it could make it die and while its boucing down the road could make it cut out

..

,,

/

Someone told me the engine studder could be a bad TPS. They said it could have a flat spotwhen throttle position is at a certain spot or the destributor could be shorting internally

Is your check engine light on Its a possibility its one of the things wrong with your engine but I think you have alot little things that are adding up to make it run like it does. A bad TPS would or could cause a hesitation or a surge but not a dead misfire.

Just doing a follow up to check the progress of your pick up.
Heavychevy

I don't know that I would call it a misfire. I did not get a chance to check fire with a timing light it may be it is losing fire when it is ramped up. The owner of that vehicle should be back in a couple of weeks for new door locks I will check it then.

If you need anything give me a yell.If you are satisfied please click the ok button. Have a nice day.
Thank you
Heavychevy

1993 Chev 1500 Pick-up Fuel System   

I want to remove the bed to replace the fule pump. it has a V-6 4X4 auto tranny.

For Replacing Pump, Take off the tank covers ,straps and filler neck hoses and break loose a little rust.
you will not have to remove the bed to replace it
I hope this helps

i WAT TOLD THAT LIFTING UP THE r.SIDE OF THE BED WAS EASIER THAT REMOVING THE TANK. the tsnk id 2/3 full of gas

In that case all you would have to do is remove thh bolts from the bed itself
where it is bolted to the chasis and the bed will lift right up
now there will be some prying to break away the debris underneath
Hope this helps

1993 Chev 1500 Pick-up Fuel System   

truck burns the prime,,, but wont stay going, changed the fuel filter on the body cassis. are there any other filters on the carb. how can i test if the fuel pump is gone

No other filter. The truck has no carb, but it does have a throttle body.On the fuel line close to the throttle body is a schrader valve under a small cap.It kinda looks like a tire valve.Push the center in.Gas should spray up.It is under pressure.
A guage can be attached here to test pressure.With an assistant, remove gas cap, turn key on/off listen for hum at the filler neck. No hum, = dead pump. Also check Fuel Pump fuse

checked for the hum,,,, no hum present. do you have a sketch of the loacation of the schrader valve for future use (couldnt see it). its either the fuse gone or the fuel pump i guess.. where is the fuse located to? i checked the fuse panel under the sterring column. nothing indicating the fuel pump, also checked the owners manual, nothing detailed there either. is there an inline fuse on the frame somewhere that i am missing? thanks for your response..
dwight

No hum means pump failed. Try 12Volts hotwire direct to pump to verify.

1992 Chev 1500 Pick-up Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When accelerating Always

I recently had a remanufactured 350 engine installed and am in the process of breaking in the new engine until 500 miles are up, at 408 miles the tranny started to act up, I applied gas, the engine revs up, but the vehicle takes a long time to reach 35 mph. It appears to slip, I put it in 1st and hear a noise. The same mechanic installed a new EGR valve on the original engine and something gave out, same OEM #, but the included spacers were not used. What would cause the Tranny to fail?

I believe that your tranny problem is unrelated to the engine
you may just want to have your trans filter changed along with your trans fluid.
check the oil pan for metal shavings and belt shavings
it is likely that the trans is on the way out ,a trans tune up will either make it or break it.
After that if you are still having slipage you are looking at a rebuild or replacementto correct the problem

I hope this helps

1991 Chev 1500 Pick-up Fuel System  When idling 

5.0L engine runs rich when starting - smoking, rich smelling exhaust. When engine is <125deg the rich condition leaves but the engine starts surging between 750 and 1200 rpm. At times when the engine is fully warmed and driven the engine idles above 1500. I have replaced the CTS and IAC. Checked voltage at TPS and MAP sensor. Disconnected the MAP sensor vacuum line and installed a Mityvac testor to simulate steady manifold vacuum. I have switched fuel injectors with another vehicle. Engine seems to run fine going down the road. There are no hard codes set in the computer. Any suggestions?

Have you checked the fuel pressure regulator?

I have not. I discounted it because it runs good at high RPM. I did swap the entire injector/regulator assembly with another vehicle, looking to eliminate both the injectors and regulator. I will check just to make sure. If this is not it, any other suggestions? I'm considering replacing the ECM. I forgot to mention I have replaced both the CalPak and the PROM.

If you have already substituted it with a known good unit it must be something else. If you have fuel pressure within specs and no vacuum leaks it would be nice to swap the ecm. Especially if your lucky enough have a donor vehicle. GM ecms have a history of weak solder joints that loosen and cause various problems.

You appear to have a lot of experience, but to be safe, make sure this is black smoke on start up. Black smoke indicates a rich conditon and blue smoke is oil.

Well, found the problem. The fuel return line was pinched at the tank where it was not obvious without dropping the tank. Checked fuel pressure and had 40psi. Never considered high pressure...duh. Thanks for your time.

1991 Chev 1500 Pick-up Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction Happens always Always

flashing 7 times then starts all over - it does not create a problem while driveing what could be the problem It may be 6 times but I believe it is 7 it is hard to tell the way it flashes

What braking system do you have, Rear Wheel Antilock?

abs

rear wheel antilock

You need to have abs diagnosed. You can pull the troublecodes yourself by grounding the H (if it exists) terminal in the ALDL (assembly line diagnostic link) connector. If you have ever pulled computer troubles on a gm product, it's the same process.

If you're unfamiliar with antilock systems, when they have a fault the antilock system is deactivated. By design, when this happens the braking system works as if you didn't have the antilock feature (keep in mind the antilock system only activates when wheel speed slows to fast, preventing a skid).

Many experienced drivers dislike antilock brakes and won't authorize repair if the estimate is high.

1991 Chev 1500 Pick-up Drive Train / Driveline   

i want to switch a 4.3 with 350 motor. need inforation about frame mounts for engine and computer,and exhust.this is in 1991 chevy 4 wheel drive pick-up

I will send you exact part numbers for the motor mounts etc tonight,
Bruce

please send any information on frame mounts for motor. i am confused on the computer also can i put diffance chip in my computer or do i need new computer or will it run with the 4.3 chip

Already sent?

did not recieve imformation

Let me know how the swap is going

1991 Chev 1500 Pick-up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

my dash brake light comes on when im in two wheel drive after a mile or so i put new brakes on back and front and that did not solve the problem. when i put on amergency brake the amergency light come on like it should.and goes out like it should when i release parking brake.but the secont light stay on untill i turn key off. but when im in four wheel drive the light stayes off,any clue what it can be? thanks ralph

That is strange that the light is affected by being in four wheel drive.

I assume the fluid is topped off. Are you sure there is no air in system?

Check the operation of the brake pressure sensor.

1990 Chev 1500 Pick-up Engine   

would a 1973 or 1976 350 slide into my 1990 c1500 p/u. There is currently an original 305 in my truck. Thanks Dan

The engine will physically bolt in if you were happy with a carbureted engine.If fuel injection is the plan, you will have to use the '90 heads, as the bolt angle is different.To retain the serpentine belt, use the 305 waterpump and pulleys.You will also have to use the injection intake, sensors and distributor.Motor mounts same, flywheel from 350 should be retained, if diameter same.The crank bolt pattern of flywheel is different after 87, so your 305 flywheel will not fit the early 350.You will have to buy a small plate to block off hole in block where the mechanical fuel pump was.Also remove the fuel pump pushrod at the same time, as its not required.
Although I could get away with the swap, a rookie might have a few problems.If it were me doing the swap, I would pick up a '87-up 350, using proceeds of early 350 sale.
But it is possible to stuff in an earlier 350.

1990 Chev 1500 Pick-up Engine   

Code 32 EGR. Took EGR valve off diaphram holds vacuum and plunger not leaking or carbon pieces. Runs rough all through range from idle to 70mph

Temporarily plug the egr passageway, does the engine immediately run better?

No

With the egr passageway blocked, this takes the egr out of the picture. It cannot make the engine run worse (but you will not get the emmisions benefits from it either.)

YOu need to start by checking the ignition system out- how are the spark plugs, wires, etc. Look in darkness/shade (when engine is running rough) to see if there is stray voltage from the ignition wires/coil. PLEASE USE EXTREME CAUTION AROUND MOVING ENGINE PARTS!

Try this and let me know what you find. We'll continue as necessary.

1989 Chev 1500 Pick-up Engine   

My truck has a 350.I have 2 problems baybe related.It sounds like a knock or ping from the right side only when accelerating.I've changed the wires,plugs,Distributer shaft,cap,rotor and the timing chain seems ok.I've done exhaust donuts as well. #2 It wants to stall while almost warm.After it warms up it seems ok,when it's cold it surges up and down almost stalling.I can't find a vacuum leak. Thanks

Ping cou;d be small hidden crack in manifold, or gasket at manifold to head surface.
Surging could be temp sensor related to computer. The sensor tells the engine if coolant is cold and it adjusts the mixture a little richer like a choke on an older engine.If it is not working, the engine might be running lean on warmup.

The engine runs fine warm and cold.It only starts to act up when it is almost warm.Could this still be the sensor?

Could be. You might want to check for codes.

1988 Chev 1500 Pick-up Windows / Glass Failing Happens always No pattern

passenger side power window will not go up or down. Power door locks will not work on both sides. Checked fuses, repaced switches. no luck. using a 12v. charger attached to the window motor; it will work. the charger works the door locks on both doors. Is there a relay I cannot find?

Hello, You have already checked the fuses and replaced the switches. Have you verified that battery voltage is actually present at these switches?

The passenger window switch gets its power through the driver's power window switch. Windows are circuit breaker protected. Since the driver's window works we can believe the circuit breaker to be good. But, if even the driver cannot roll down the right window and power is present at the driver's switch, there is likely a broken wire in the rubber flex boot between the hinges on either door. You would have to slice the boot open and look at the area the wires bend the most frequently for a break. Such a break is easily repaired by splice and solder and I recommend heat shrink to weather tight the repair.

Door locks are fuse protected. Switches are new, fuses are stated to be good, so verify battery voltage is present at the switch. If it is not, repeat the above wire search inside the door flex boot as needed for a broken wire relative to door locks.

There is a door lock relay that could be bad. If there is power at the door lock switches, look for the door lock relay behind the right verticle kick panel under the dash and just forward of the right door. It is important to know that some models put the relay on the driver's side behind the kick panel. You may have to check both sides.

Roger

Hello, Will you please take a moment and give me an update on this question? Thanks!

Merry Christmas,

Roger

Roger, I have the door locks working from both sides. This is a great imporvement for me. The drivers window will not work from either side. I am working on the broken wire theory. There are no relays behind pannels on either side. Will keep cheking wires for now. Thanks for all the help and have a Blessed Christmas and a Greater New Year. Paul

Since the door locks are working now you could find the relay by tracing the sound it makes when it works if you want to. No need..

Do you have 12VDC at the driver's power window switch? If you unplug the driver side window motor you can check to see if the switch is sending the volts to the motor by checking for switched power at the connector.

Merry Christmas to you and a prosperous New Year!,

Roger

I have the 12v at the driver's power window switch and also at the pass. switch. No lick so far. The new switches were from a e-bay bid and may also be defective. I have ardered new switches and hope this will fix. Thanks, Paul

Have you disconnected the connector at the window motor, turned the key ON, tested each wire in the connector for the window motor for power when you actuate the switch? Test each wire while actuating the window switch "UP" and "DOWN." One wire in the connector should show volts when the window switch calls for "UP" and the other wire should show volts when the window switch calls for "DOWN."

Power in each wire sent there by the switch would mean a bad motor. Power in only one wire at the motor connector can be double checked by testing the same color wire leaving the back of the window switch for switched power output. If power leaves the switch but doesn't arrive at the motor connector you likely have a broken wire in the flex boot.

Please try these tests before you replace the switches again.

Roger

BIG THANKS and I will try these steps. Have a great New Years celebration. Paul

Happy New Year!! Let me know if you need further assistance on this question.

Roger

I think you have about covered all the bases on this one. The only thing left to do is the time comsuming testing of each wire and making sure the voltage is reaching the window motor. Thaks again for all the advice and suggestions. Paul

Good luck, Sir. I hope I've provided the advice that gets you to the problem source.

If you are ready to, please close this question so that I may be paid. Thank you for your business.

Roger

Great job. I do not know how to close the question. Please send info. and I will get you paid asap. Thanks, Paul

You should see on your screen "Are you satisfied with the answer? Click "OK" to pay the mechanic." And a red "OK" box should be there.

There should also be a sentence "Reply for more information" and a red "Reply" button if you desire more info.

If you don't see these boxes, log out and log back in without using the link that comes in your email. When you log in the long way you should see what I'm trying to explain.

Thanks!,

Roger

Roger, I have logged on both ways and no red button and no "are you statisfied with your answer." Internet is slow at this time and I will try again later. Thanks, Paul
p.s. I have voltage to both wires going to the window motor. Polarity reversen as switch is moved. No motor movement. disconnect the wires from the switch and use the battery charger window goes up and down. The voltage from the battery charger and the voltage from the switch are both 12 volts. I guess a new motor must be in order. Thanks, Paul

Sounds like a motor failure to me too. If you remove the window regulator and change the motor yourself be very careful. That spring on the regulator is there to assist the motor when raising the window. It is tensioned even when the window regulator is full "up". Clamp the regulator in a vice in such a way that when you remove the motor, the regulator arm can't move from the springs' tension. I have seen some scary injuries from not addressing what the regulator arm will do when you remove the motor. Use a vice. Do not trust vice grips!!

Roger

Roger, All I can get is a blank screen to type on and a send button. I would be glad to close if only I had the red button to use. I will try any suggestions. Thanks for your patience, Paul

1988 Chev 1500 Pick-up Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

Dash lights won't come on...gauges work but speedo cuts out at times and returns on it's own or when tapped, and service engine soon lights up after driving for an hour.I have replaced MAP, O2 and pvc and still get the service warning. My brightness dial turns on interior courtesy lamps, but could it still be the culprit? All other lights work...turn, headlights, hazards and park lights...Baffled.

Yes it could still be the 'brightness dial'.

On your service engine light, which trouble codes are being stored in the ECM (computer). If you haven't checked the codes, I can give you simple instructions.

Hi Douglas, thanks for the quick reply, and in answer to your question, no i haven't checked the ECM for error codes as i don't know how. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Mike

It will be easier for me to give you link to the information you need- it'll be easier and likely to have pictures. Highlight, Copy, and Paste the following link into your Address bar-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

Once you access a repair guide for your truck you'll find trouble code retrieval information- likely under the 'Emissions' section. All you'll need is a paper clip to connect terminals A and B of the the diagnostic connector.

Well Douglas, i put into implementation your recommendations for both the dash light issue(replacing the dimmer switch) AND having the error codes(ECM error codes) checked and neither is solving the problems with this vehicle. The error codes found were old codes that were erased and reset i beleive he said but the issue still arrises after driving for about 30 minutes...service engine soon lights up. The Dash light issue i believe to be unsolvable at this point as i don't think the cost is going to be worth the effort, unless you have any other ideas.

Mike

If the engine light comes on there should be a code stored in the computer. After the engine light comes on, check the codes and let me which codes numbers you find. These may be useful.

1985 Chev 1500 Pick-up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I am troubleshooting a temperatuer gauge that will not register. It stays at low end (100 deg.) I replaced the sending unit, still does not register. Unplugged wire at sending unit, reads 11.6 volts. when I grounded it, temp meter pegged to the top. I read that there should be a voltage regulator for gauges to reduce voltage to 5 volts. where is this regulator? is it in the gauge? This gauge is in the gauge cluster. volt gauge appears to work fine, but oil pressure also suspect, reads max of 60 psi at all times, even at idle.

The voltage regulator is attached to the rear of the instrument cluster, Sounds like you are correct in diagnosing so far!

I have the cluster pulled out, what does the regulator look like? could it be a green box that is plugged into the back of the cluster?

I have seen both green and grey boxes. Depends where the truck was built.Probably not avail from dealer, perhaps a wrecker?