Chev APV

1995 Chev APV Fuel System   

engine runs smoothly, usually after it is warmed uup and driving hwy speed, engine begins to die and loses power, sometimes with a loud backfire.Usually Engine does not die entirely but loses power. If shut off for 5 minutes it will start and begin driving smoothly again. This seems to happen once a week or so. When operating normally the van runs very well. My guess is dirt in gas tank

Hello,

Does the engine run okay if you allow it to idle in park (when the problem is present)?

If you could get your hands on a fuel pressure gauge, the fuel pressure would let you know if this was a problem. Alternatively it will not hurt to change the fuel filter, especially if it is overdue now.

The other thing that commonly causes these symptoms is a restricted exhaust (plugging converter). Do you notice the problem appear more frequenty during/after uphill climbs?

THE CONVERTER HAS BEEN RECENTLY CHANGED . iT WAS SUPPOSED TO SOLVE THE PROBLEM AND DIDN"T. tHE VEHICLE WILL IDLE IN PARK WHEN THE PROBLEM IS PRESENT

Okay, when it happens again check to see if the exhaust is glowing. A plugged converter is the most common exhaust restriction, but the problem can be elsewhere.

If the fuel filter is overdue, change it now.

Do you get any 'Check Engine' at anytime while the engine is running?

No The check engine light does not come on. Does the rust in the tank theory hold water

I think your engine uses an external filter, change this one. The "sock" filter that attaches to the pump in tank rarely plugs as it has a lot of surface area.

1993 Chev APV Ignition System   

I brought my van in for repair because it wouldn't start. I have had the fuel pump replaced recently and it worked fine for 2 weeks and then it wouldn't start one morning. I opened the fuel cap to listen for the fuel pump to see if it was working, but heard nothing. I called the repair shop and they came and picked it up, they phoned me later and told me that it wasn't my fuel pump this time, but it was my ignition module. when I questioned why I didn't here the fuel pump operating in the tank they told me it was because the ignition tells the fuel pump to work and this was why I didn't hear it. I am now faced with the purchasing a new ignition module at over 300 dollars. can u tell me if what the shop is telling me is true. my motor is a 3.8 6 cly, 2 wheel drive, not all wheel drive.

Hello,
The fuel pump runs for the first two seconds when the key is turned on, then the computer will turn it off until the engine starts. This two second run period is to pressure-up the fuel supply rail to the injectors for engine start. Once the engine starts the pump will run constantly to keep up with demand.

An ignition module is a seperate failure and unrelated to a fuel pump replacement. The module has the three ignition coils mounted directly on top of it. It can only be installed one way. You could do this if you have the metric tools. (nothing special is needed) National auto chain stores sell this part and quote prices over the phone.

Apparently you had a fuel pressure issue before. Now, there is no spark. Frustrating? NO doubt!

Roger

does the ingnition module have anything to do with telling the fuel pump to start working when the key is turned? when I turn the key should I hear the fuel pump even if the ignition module is faulty? What I would like to know is would changing ignition module solve my problem of my van not starting? I am worried that the shop will change something that doesn't need changing. Is there a way I can test the ignition module to ensure its working?

Hi,
The ignition module has no say in telling the fuel pump when to run. Its' job is to tell the coils when to release their high voltage down the plug wires to the spark plugs. The computer controls the ign. module based on input it receives from various sensors.

To hear the fuel pump run the two seconds when the key is turned to RUN (not start),you'll need someone to turn the key while you listen at the fuel tank inlet pipe with the gas cap removed. An ignition module, good or bad, cannot deter this test. It is not easy to hear if any other noise is present. (i.e. neighbors lawn mower or such)

Yes, if the ignition module is bad , a replacement is needed and should start the engine. It is an electronic part and fails over time like any such device. The only test you can do yourself without testing equipment, is to pull a plug wire loose from a coil and suspend the wire near the coil connection that it belongs on and watch for spark when someone else cranks the engine. VERY IMPORTANT: Use a stick or small 'Y' branch from a tree to hold the wire while the engine cranks. NO PLIERS OR METAL!! That is 55,000 volts you are checking for and it will hurt you if you are in it's path. If there is spark, the module is good. If there is no spark, the module is often the cause and replacement is needed.

Has anyone checked for codes stored in the computer??

Be safe,

Roger

1991 Chev APV All Part Groups Failing When driving When warm 

while driving my 1991 chevy lumina apv van for approximately 20-30 minutes, my van will make a funny noise, start jerking and shut off with the service engine soon light on. the van will start back up and run in park but, it will shut off again when shifting gear to reverse or drive. what will cause this problem? this first happened on 12-31-04 and did'nt happen again until 2-11-05. and when car is not running until the next day, it will not happen for a while. please help.

When it initially stalls, is it while you are coming to a stop or slowing down?

coming to a stop.

The TCC (torque converter clutch) solenoid is sticking. This causes the engine to stall while coming to a stop, the same as if you tried to stop with a manual transmission without depressing the clutch.

where can i located the tcc? can this problem be due to bad gas?

It's behind the side cover on the transmission. You'll see the electrical connector for the tcc on the side cover.

This problem happened so much there is no reason to think it was caused by bad gas.

If you give me an email address I'll send you a link that describes the repair.

[redacted]

Check your email.

Don't check your email... for some reason the email was returned. Here is the email (simply highlight, copy, and paste the links into your address bar).


Here are a couple of links for replacement of the tcc solenoid. Use them as
a general guide, some are actually easier than these instructions show. It
all depends on room to access the side cover.

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doityourself/l/aa011703a.htm

Note this link contains 5 pages...


http://www.technicalevolution.com/gm125.htm

Here is another link that describes replacement.

Some people disconnect the tcc electrical connector at the transmission to
cure the problem. This will prevent the car from stalling again. The bad
news is the engine light will turn on, fuel economy will decrease slightly,
and the transmission temperature will rise. This probably sounds worse than
it is, but I wanted to let you know there is a quick fix but it is not
recommended as a permanent fix. It's your van and your choice.