Chev Astrovan

2007 Chev Astrovan Ignition System   

My van doesn't start all of sudden. It's not the starter, doesn't seem like the fuel pump. It some how seems not to be getting fuel. Fuel tank more than half full.

Can't start my van, its kicking but not over.

It's a 2002 not a 2007.

Hi, What engine does your van have please?

Can you verify spark? Fuel Pressure?

Thanks,

Roger

2005 Chev Astrovan Drive Train / Driveline   

Hello. I have a 2005 AWD astrovan. There is a vibration in the steering wheel, accelerator petal and dash about 50-55 mph. I have had a new rear drive shaft, new rear shocks, 4 new matching tires, new u joint in front. The vibration still persists. The vibration disappears when the front drive shaft is removed. HELP!

Hello, Was the u-joint that was replaced on the front drive shaft or the front of the rear drive shaft? Did replacing the u-joint have any effect? Could it be binding?

Please advise,

Roger

The u joint that was replaced was on the front drive shaft and had no effect at all.

The u joint that was replaced was on the front drive shaft. All the work done in the rear was done because it was first believed that the problem was there. However, once it was discovered that the vibration disappeared when the front drive shaft was removed, they decided to replace the u joint in front.

OK. It's 4 1/2 hours later. I'm still waiting.

Check for front pinion bearing movement, when driveshaft out.
Sounds like the pinion bearing has excessive wear.

So you don't think a loose or poor motor mount has anything to do with it? This problem started suddenly.

Although some times mounts break or tear. its not common unless oil soaked. If it were a motor mount It would not stop or decrease when front driveshaft disconnected.Would not hurt to look at them very closely though

This happened suddenly. I was going about 50 mph and heard a clink or clang and the vibration started. It was not jarring just a clink or clang. The fluid in the rear differential was changed already with no traCE OF PARTICLE MATTER. Also, since the vibration stopped with the removal of the front drive shaft, should we change the fluid in the front differential and transfer box. Thanks.

Clank might br a slightly bent front driveshaft (from hitting something?)or perhaps one of the spot welded balance weights came off.See if there is a suspicious spot weld that is attaching nothing.Sometimes if the drive shaft is not replaced in exactly the same position (out of phase)when u joint changed...can cause vibration....I usually mark mine before I remove them.

The clank or clink only occurred once. I don't think it's that I never ran over or hit anything. The vibration started right than not after the u joint was replaced.

might be one of the balance weights came off...it happens.

ok thanks

2003 Chev Astrovan Heating / Cooling System   

Blower motor works. AC works. Heat Works. But its stuck with air blowing on floor and defroster only. Bi-level, Vent, Floor blend, defrost don't work

Hello, There is a plastic vacuum supply line that begins at the intake manifold and runs to the HVAC vacuum distribution valve inside the dash panel.

This line is very likely broken above the engine. The leak is the cause of the HVAC doors not moving on command.

There is limited room under the hood but with the engine cool I believe you can find the cracked or broken line and splice it with a section of rubber vacuum hose. You'll want a tight fit for a lasting repair.

Sometimes it is necessary to remove the engine cover to make the repair. I hope it won't come to that this time.

Roger

Thanks Roger, I found the cracked line.

Gage

Great job! To accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me please close the question, or click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

I thank you,

Roger

Hey there, If we are finished I would like to be paid.

Please close the question or click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

Thanks,

Roger

Please close the question or click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button so that I may be paid. I've been waiting since May 21st.

Thanks,

Roger

2000 Chev Astrovan Ignition System   

starter wont disinguage. replaced starter and now starter fires on the run position. replaced starter switch(steering colum) and i still have same problem. pulled relay during start mode and "start sequence stops." telling me the problem is in the top hafe of the car as opposed to the starter selenoid and starter. What would cause the starter to run free?

Are you certain the problem is not the relay itself? Check to see if you have a matching relay nearby to swap for test purposes.

2000 Chev Astrovan Engine   

Van sitting for 10 days, now turns over but won't start (though it does cough once in a while). Good spark from coil and to spark plugs. Sprayed Liquid Fire in the air intake - no difference. Fuel pump runs for a couple of seconds when the key is turned. If the fuel pressure is too low is there some kind of interlock that would cause this behavior? How do I test that, and how to measure fuel pressure?

Hi, there is a valve on the fuel rail that looks like an all metal tire valve. It has a cap on it. This is where a fuel pressure test guage is attached.

What concerns me is the engine did not start and run on the Liquid Fire until the amount was consumed.

You have spark. There is a question about fuel supply. Had the engine started on the Liquid Fire it would have told us fuel supply (pump pressure) or the fuel injectors themselves are suspect.

What is the condition of the spark plugs? Are they clean or are they soaked with raw fuel? How cold is your weather?

Please advise,

Roger

Hi Roger, thanks for your help. I haven't checked the spark plugs - they're almost impossible to reach (is there a trick?), and it seemed unlikely that all 6 plugs would go bad at once and it was running fine before. Cold snap for about 2 weeks w low +5 deg F; ran fine. Then it snowed 2 ft; ran fine. A plow blocked it, so it sat 10 days (had constant fog then) and now its sick. Its now close to 32 F and clear.

I'm not expecting the spark plugs have all failed at once. But if they get so fuel fouled it could take holding the throttle on the floor and a fairly long cranking period to hear the hope of starting. Worst case could call for cleaning them and checking the gap. I don't have a trick to removing them. Just a sparkplug socket with an attached universal joint to allow working at an angle.

Have you held the throttle on the floor and cranked it?

Roger

I've held the gas to the floor while cranking several times; maybe it needs more. With more liquid fire I was able to get it to fire and backfire (out the air intake) a few times. It then tried to run (without the starter engaged) for about 30 sec. at a time if I pumped the gas, but it wouldn't quite keep going. Finally the battery died. I charged it and tried again later, but only got one big backfire.

Any chance there's water condensation on the spark plugs that's causing them to short, or something like that? I don't know if that can happen. I would think trying to start it would dry them out if it was the case.

Water would not condensate in the cylinders and get on the plugs.....never came across that one yet.

Backfiring is dangerous business. I suggest only enough of the product to cause the engine to want to start. Then a small amount of the product and crank the engine with the throttle about 1/3. If a backfire occurs and you notice fire in the intake crank the engine and draw the fire down inside the engine. Don't pump the accelerator.

It's going to be trial and error and a warm garage may be in order for better results. It may come to cleaning the spark plugs and checking the gap. I think this engine's probably been flooded by now and all the effort has blackened the plugs.

How new is the fuel filter? Is the fuel free of water and fresh? It's better to keep a tank full than below half tank.

Roger

Thanks again. The fuel filter was changed about 9 months ago so I don't think that's the problem. Back when this first showed up I put methyl hydrate in the tank along with 5 gal of "fresh" gas just in case bad gas was the problem. I'll try and figure out how to get the spark plugs out and check or change them as needed. Sounds like that may be the problem.

P.S. The tank was almost empty when this started (less than 5 gal in the tank), so I believe adding the 5 gal of new gas would have significantly diluted anything that was already there. At least that was the theory...

Condensation in the fuel tank is still a possibility here. Have you thought about an addative for the fuel to emulsify any water in the bottom of the tank?

I'll check back tomorrow, it's midnight here.

Roger

Hi Roger. We're up and running. I just used the Liquid Fire (sparingly) and followed your suggestion of 1/3 throttle (and when it seemed appropriate, gas on the floor), and it eventually caught. So, does that indicate a problem or condition that needs to be addressed now (i.e. dirty plugs, or ???). I've never had this occur before (with this vehicle). Any idea what would have caused it? Thanks again for your help!

No follow up should be necessary. Once the engine warmed up to operating temperature most anything cleaning would do was done by combustion.

Tough call as to what may have brought this on. Best guess would be the cold weather, the freshness of the fuel, possible flooding the cylinders during cranking.....

We are taught not to touch the accelerator when starting a fuel injected engine. If the weather is quite cold the 1/3 throttle trick has proved useful if done with the first attempt to start the curb cold engine. Single digit ambient temperatures would be the time to do this.

I suggest keeping the fuel tank at 1/2 tank or above. You may want to consider a gas addative to combat moisture in the fuel supply network on the van.

Ready to close this question? If so, please click on OK to finish up. If not, please advise. Good job!

I thank you,

Roger

1999 Chev Astrovan Drive Train / Driveline Vibration When turning Always

i have an all wheel drive and in a short period of time now when ever i turn it feels like it is binding like a 4 wheel drive does but it has never done that before neither did the 95 i had a gm garage said it has to be in the transfer case so to save money i had a private garage put in a new one but it didnt change anything what to try or do next? also someone else asked about their lights getting dim and bright i had the same thing happen and it was a short in the main fuse block under the hood had to replace the whole thing but it fixed the problem. greg

It sounds to me as if the AWD sensor is feeding a bad read to to the control module.E.G. It thinks you you should be in AWD when in fact you're on level dry ground. I don't see where the transfer case would be involved unles it was a manual change to AWD which I don't think you have unless there is a switch that you have to press to engage.If so, both sensor and switch need to be checked.
Good Luck,
Paul

that sounds very likely do you have any idea where the sensor might be or where i could find out where it is?

I'm not for certain on this paticular model, but it should be on the side of either the tranny or transfer case. Best way would be to refer to a repair manual.If you don;t have one, I'm sure you can find one at one of your local parts suppliers(Pep Boys, Auto Zone etc.)
Good Luck,
Paul

1999 Chev Astrovan All Part Groups   

I was driving my car and needed to put the brakes on but they did not work...it felt as if they were sliding...In order to avoid hiting some cars in front of me I wanted to make a turn onto a side street but my steering wheel was hard to turn ..my son was in the car with me and he helped me turn the wheel. When the car was still moving I turned the engine off and then my car stopped after a 30 second coast.
The mechanics can not find anything wrong with it...The brakes are fine. They are puzzled and cant find anything wrong. However the car has been making a strange sound underneath for a few weeks and the mechanics say its the catalytic converter that needs to be replaced but they stated I can still drive the car without having it fixed right away.
They also stated that this problem with the catalytic
converter would not cause the problem I had. Now I am afraid to drive the car...for fear that it will
happen again. Please help.

Sounds like the engine stalled.That would cause the power steering to feel very tight and the brakes to feel very weak.
Since brakes and steering are very important safety items you might get a lot of peace of mind by having a local tech look at it.
If it still runs ok, make an appointment with a shop you trust and have it looked at.Not just the brakes,and steering but also the engine.
If the cat has been making a strange rattling sound, the insides might be breaking up (common) and plugging exhaust, which would cause stalling then brake failure and powersteering failure. If you can get under the car, don a pair of gloves and pound a little on the cat (muffler shaped, near engine)Listen for internal rattle or loosness.

1999 Chev Astrovan Ignition System   

The ignition doesn't work. The engine doesn't turn over, nothing happens, the radio and fuel pump and everything else works but no ignition. The battery is charged full. This happened once before and I jumped it. At first the jump didn't work but when I repeatedly tried to start it finally worked. Before it started it was dead, like I wasn't even in park or nuetral (engine didn't turn at all). Then I tried lots of things like pushing the gear selector all the way into park and stepping on the brake and it fired right up. Noww it's happening again.

Hello, Have you tried starting in neutral this time?

Roger

Yes, I tried to start it in Nuetral. It doesn't work.

The positive battery cable connection at the battery is a stacked configuration.

Disconnect the battery negative cable, then the positive. Unstack the positive cables and pry out the lead spacer plug that is fitted into one of the connections.

Do you find hidden corrosion?

Roger

I'll check back in later. I have to make a psrts run.

Roger

The battery cable is a direct connection onto the battery terminal, no lead spacer. I cleaned the connector and terminal. There was minimal corrosion. It still won't start.

OK I have to go to the bank and some other chores. I think it's an electrical problem.

I'm back now and need to get this van running.

Did inspecting the battery cable ends for corrosion reveal anything?

Roger

I already answered that. Minimal corrosion on postive terminal. I cleaned it, the ignition still doesn't work.

All right. When the key is in the start position is there power on the "S" terminal at the starter solenoid?

If so, replaced the starter/solenoid assembly.

Roger

I'll have to crawl under the van to check that. Should the key be turned all the forward like when you're trying to start thew engine?

Yes, someone will have to hold the key in the start position while you test for voltage. Power on the small wire (Purple color?) is only there from the ignition switch when in the start position.

Roger

OK I'm going to be a while on this one. I have to get a floor jack or something to lift this van up. There's no room to crawl under.

Those ramps that you find at Wal-Mart are great to own. When the van will start you can drive on. When it won't they make great jack stands under the tires after jacking the van.

Do you need a wiring diagram? I'd need your email to send it to you. (or a fax #)

Roger

Yes I have 2 different size ramps. I jacked it up -- blocked it up -- and went under and located the wires. I jiggled them around and then tried the ignition just in case it would start while I was under the van. It started right up and that pisses me off 'cause now I don't know what the hell the problem is. I sprayed the wires with WD and tried to tighten them up but it's too tight down there and I was making sparks. Next time it happens I could be far from home and have to call a tow truck.

Jiggling the wires in that area could easily effect the starter solenoid connections. In particular, the battery cable terminal.

A couple of choices here:

1. Disconnect the battery, remove the starter assembly. Remove the end cap of the solenoid. Loosen and turn the battery cable terminal 180 degrees within the cap. Clean the contact disc if needed. This will improve the connections considerably. You'll note the battery cable terminal had burned away some of the contact surface.

2. Replace the starter assembly with a reconditioned one.

Roger

Do you have any ideas? Is this just an intermittent caused by loose or faulty wiring or could it be some other electrical problem?

I need to get this van higher off the ground for that project. Therer's no room to work under the engine.
OK-- thanx for the help. I can't help thinking that the real problem is somewhere else.

The electrical contact surfaces in the starter solenoid end cap are wear items. Not likely a wiring problem....at least that is not the norm from years of service.

I'm thinking the starter has the problem...

Roger

1999 Chev Astrovan Drive Train / Driveline   

DRIVE LINE BINDS IN MY '99 AWD ASTRO AT LOW SPEED WHEN TURNING SHARP ON DRY PAVEMENT LIKE IN A PARKING LOT. FEELS LIKE A 4WD PICK-UP IN 4 WHEEL LOCK ON DRY PAVEMENT.

These are typical symptoms when you have trouble with the Viscous Coupling. Is it bad enough that it will have to be repaired?

I guess that would depend on how much a viscous coupling costs! The problem bothers me, but it doesn't make the vehicle undrivable.

I'd start with a place, if available, that offers free estimates.

How difficult is replacing the viscous coupling and how would I determine if that is indeed the problem?

1999 Chev Astrovan Ignition System   

1999 4.3 astro van runs rough in wet weather.the spark plugs,spark plug wires,coil,distributor cap,have all been replaced twice! I have noticed that the 2 new coils i have installed are arcing at high rpm. The arcing occours inbetween the coil case and metal heat sink around it. when i spray the coil with water,sparks jump from the case to the distributor wire causing the engine to get very rough running. This is most likely the cause of my problem. I cant find a reason that it is happening after 2 new coils. Any ideas ?

Hello, Inspect the spark plug wire boots for pin holes or evidence of carbon tracking lines.

(Perhaps a higher quality plug wire set would have boots on the wire ends that seal better.)

Are the present wire ends snapping into place? Sometimes they are stubborn about fully engaging the coil towers due to the wire boot interference.

Roger

1998 Chev Astrovan Engine Won't Start Happens sometimes When cold

My 1998 Chevy Astrovan will not start. Starter is working. I shot starting fuild in the injectors , but fire. I have had new fuel pump. wires, plugs, cap and rotor put on. I have had to replace the cap and rotor 3 times in the last 7 months. the cap that lasted the longest was a GM part. I am about to go out and get another cap. The engine service soon light is on. that the van has run rough on and off prior to this till it warmed up. The last thing I have noticed is that I am getting terrible milage. The Van can't pass a gas station. Help me!!!!

You have some major problems and you need to take the van to a professional that can run a scanner on the entire engine. I would guess that you have a computer that is freaking out but without scanning you will never know. It might even be something you take back to the dealer. Sorry to say this but you are going to spend some $$$ on this one. Good luck. AL

1998 Chev Astrovan Engine Slipping When shifting When warm 

I have a 98 Astro rear wheel drive that started running very rough after a 2 hr hiway drive.Service engine light came on and first code was p0102 M.A.F. sensor with a secondery code p1870 transmision control.My question is can a bad M.A.F sensor cause a faulse code in the trans.82,000 miles never had tranny problems. thanks

P1870 is a common code on these vans that points to a bad valve body or torque converter.

Since this failure will not cause a break-down on the road, I recommend repairing MAF problem first, clearing the codes and checking the transmission code later. On some vehicles, a bad MAF can cause a torque converter clutch code, although I have not seen it on this van.

1998 Chev Astrovan Ignition System Won't Start Happens sometimes When cold

when the weather is damp or wet and the van has not run for 2 or 3 days the van will not start. It might fire alittle bit but will not start. Could a computer board be getting wet? if so where is it and how do I protect it?

The first thing you'll need to do is check to see if there are any stored or pending trouble codes in the vehicles computer (actually called a PCM- powertrain control module).

If you visit Advance Auto or Autozone they will check the trouble codes free of charge.

Get back to me with the aplhanumeric codes they find. Ex- P0300, P0400, etc.

The reason to check codes is to try to narrow down the cause.

1998 Chev Astrovan Ignition System   

will not start , connot hear the fuel pump when turn ignition but the engine turns over

fuel pump test connection under hood- pump sis not run.
. what is most probablel cause:
..failed connection- where?
..failed fuel pump
..failed ingintion relay/ pump relay

First things first, make sure you have spark and the check engine light comes on when you turn on the key. You can spray a small amount of carburetor/throttle body cleaner into the throttle body and see if the engine will run momentarily to confirm lack of fuel as the only cause of the no-start condition.

If you have power going to the fuel pump and it still does not run, the fuel pump itself has likely failed.

1998 Chev Astrovan Engine   

first problem my astro van is hard to start hot or cold its been doing this for the past 7 month but today it wont start at all, i change the spark and the cables like a month ago but was doing the samething.second problem while i was driving at 60mph the engine stall i change the crankshaft sensor last week and solve the problem for a week but is doing it again.what can i do? thank Rafael

Rafael, if there are no diagnostic codes being set, I would resort to basic tuneup procedures, compression test, filters, dist cap and rotor etc.

1998 Chev Astrovan Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

Lost brakes. Can you tell me how to fix it myself. i.e. check sensors, replace master cylinder, etc. I can buy the parts I need.

The first thing you will need to is look in the brake master cylinder reservoir and check the fluid level. If the fluid level is low add some fluid and pump the pedal a few times. Locate the leak and let me know where it is leaking. Common spots for leak are the rear wheel cylinders (hard to see), brake hoses, and steel brake lines.

1998 Chev Astrovan Fuel System   

Hi,
I have a 1998 chevy astro, with only 45000 kilometres/28000 miles, (i bought the van with 38000 kilometres 6 months ago, and it looks as if its been lying in a garage for very long time) i have just changed the idler pulley, and oil coolant pipes, serpentine belt, rear brake shoes, and added 2 more parking lights to front. when i start the van she idles for about 7minutes and then switches herself off, so i took for drive, drove for about 30 miles, stopping for petrol, seemed to drive ok, then i stopped at roundabout and the engine stopped, the engine started, then cut out again in about 60 seconds, after about 5 attempts, i let the van sit for 15 minutes, it started, got me home, (half a mile), when i got out to open garage doors, the engine stopped, it started again, to let me drive into garage. The instrument gauges are reading normal.
Would this be an electrical fault with me adding lights and something is over heating?
I first noticed this happening when the rear brake shoe had jammed, and broke, my reason for changing, they weren’t badly worn just very old and not service.
I also changed the coolant and thermostat, when i started the engine toda, it idled for 10 minutes, then cut out, i restarted the engine it raved high for 3-4 seconds, idle flucuated a few times then cut out again.And anyone shed light on this?

i have 11000km on this van since buying with no real problems, all started just lately

Hi,
An intermittent problem can be difficult to find, but yours seems to be somewhat consistent, often occurring after 5-10 minute idle.

Does it ever cut out when your foot is on the accelerator? If not, then it is ONLY and idle problem. When it will not restart, will it restart with by holding the accelerator down about 1/3? If so, it confirms an idle problem.

Assuming this is an idle problem, I would start with replacing the PCV valve and cleaning the throttle body. If this does not resolve the issue, it may be a sticky idle control motor. Replace it and you should be on your way.

Hope this helps.

would ECT be the problrm?

It could be, but will likely turn on the check engine light. Is your light on?

no lights, also i started it today, ticked over lovely, cut out after 12minutes, restarted, she raved on her own as she had automatic choke, theb cut out again, wouldnot srart for 10 minutes, then did all over again

Could be a vacuum leak, or still could be a sticky idle control motor. Does it start if you hold the gas pedal down 1/4?

You need to check for spark to the plugs the next time it will not start.

Did you clean the throttle body, etc as previously instructed? This is good maint. regardless, this vehicle would surely benefit from it.

Have you changed the fuel filter?

1998 Chev Astrovan Fuel System   

Fuel pump died, I replaced it - now vehicle acts as though it has a fuel leak down problem, but only after sitting for a number of hours. Once you crank it long enough, it starts, runs fine at all speeds and will re-start without problem. Let it sit for three or more hours and the problem re-occurs. However, once, yesterday morning, it started immediately. I'm thinking some sort of check valve? Comprsssion, spark and fuel pressure are all good.

Although you might have a problem with pump (some new ones are bad) or the hose to it might not be tight, the first thing I would look at (clean out) would be the fuel pressure regulator on the motor.A small foreign particle (dirt) might be lodged in it.

I was thinking that one of the "quick disconnect" fittings might be leaking - it's just such a pain in the ass to get to them (above the now full fuel tank, of course)... but on the off chance that it is the regulator, where is this thing? Is it buried in the intake?

Yes the reg on intake , by the throttle body
where the return line starts. Hope gas tank not full!

Gas tnak is full - I'll run it down for a while. I guess i could ts the regulator by pinching off the return line and watching the pressure rise - it's cheap enough though, and at over 170,000 miles, I guess I'll just replace it and see what happens.

1997 Chev Astrovan Windows / Glass   

I AM LOOKING FOR INFORMATION ON BODY REPAIR FOR MY ASTROVAN. SPECIFIACLLY THE RIGHT FRONT. ARE THERE BOOKS WITH DIAGRAMS? SPECIFICALLY THE RIGHT FRONT AND RADIATOR SUPPORT

Most manuals only give general specifics and locations.A little more information as to the type of damage and I might be able to give you some clues on what you may be looking for.My specialty is autobody and paint.Pictures may do even better.Get back and I'll give you an email where you can send them if possible.

1997 Chev Astrovan Engine   

1997 astro awd. 125,000 miles. fresh tune up, plugs, plug wires, air filter, fuel filter, dist.cap, rotor, etc. Have replaced fuel pump. whent trough cooling system, Replaced thermostate, rad. cap, clutch fan,flushed, new coolent. Van runs great, stays around 210-215 temp even in 105 degree weather. The problem is after several hours some parked time. and without over heating. It starts to lose power, seems like fuel ? won't rev. hits flat spot even in nutural. does get a little better after 15-30 min. cool time, but comes back soon after. This problem does not show up untill at least 100 miles of driveing. I had the codes read. The only one that came up was hot o2 sensor. could it be a pluged catalytic converter? I haven't had van for long but it does seem to have good power for a 4.3 No big power lose when running right. All so have noticed if I loosen gas cap some neg. presure, doesn't help, was thinking vapor lock, is this posible with fuel injection ? anything to lead me in right direction Thanks Lynn

Lynn
The neg press in tank is normal, Fuel injected cars do not get vapor lock, but you could check the fuel and fuel return lines, ensuring none are damaged.
But I would first have it scanned for 'codes' and have some look at the catalyctic converter, as it might be getting plugged.
Bruce

Thanks for replie, I did have codes checked, the only one that came up was o2 sensor got hot. The "serice engine soon" light comes on sometimes, but light doesn't correspond with engine running bad. If cataltic, or muffler is pluged would it take a 100 miles or more to show up? Thanks Lynn

Sometimes a partially plugged cat will do that. O2 sensors are relatively cheap and if code shows up, it should be replaced.

1997 Chev Astrovan Engine   

AWD Van It takes apx 5 seconds to start. When cold in winter it will start right away most of time. Runs fine after starts. Had it 2 garage has irregular fuel pressure. If i hold gas down seems to start a little sooner. Cleaned thortle body, new air filter. Nothing else comes up on scanner. Fuel pump assy. needed? don't want to spend the money if it is something else.Once started runs ruff for 2 seconds then smooth

replace spark plugs

Hello, A shop confirmed irregular fuel pressure? What does that mean? Too low? Too high? Won't hold after the key is turned off? Just what is the fuel pressure? What engine is in this one?

Has the fuel filter been checked for restriction?

Roger

I will call the mechanic today if I can reach him. It is the 4.3 vortech V6, chevy put these in the s-10's astro's, 1500's, safari's, etc.

Fuel pressure should be 60 - 66 psi.

Roger

ok, i can try and put a guage on it this weekend.

Thanks

Keep in touch please.

Roger

Roger will try and get guage on van again this weekend, sorry about the delay

Thanks for the update.

Roger

1996 Chev Astrovan Ignition System   

When I turn the key off, the oil indicator light and all other dash lights stay on. I've disconnected the battery until I can determine problem. With ny head ubder the hood I can hear that electrical is still on. Problem came on suddenly . No problems prior. Van runs well.

Hello, The ignition lock cylinder may not be turning the full mechanical rotation to actuate and turn off the ignition electrical switch.

This may be due to a broken gear in the mechanism that mechanically connects the ignition lock cylinder to the ignition electrical switch.

Are you tooled and skilled to open the steering column to inspect for the cause? The steering wheel will need to come off and the turn signal switch will have to slide upward to see below what the problem is.

If this is a tilt column the shift bowl and pivot pins will have to come out to go deep if the inspection determines the rack gear has broken.

Please advise,

Roger

on a 1 to 10 what is degree of diculty for do-it-your-selfer. Special tools needed?

To the untrained I'd call it a 7.The pivot pins require a special puller tool to remove. About a $10 tool. You can find them on eBay. A steering wheel puller is also needed. If an air bag is on the steering wheel the system needs to be disarmed first.

You can do it with the help of a repair manual available at an auto parts store. Even your public library has referrence books or a data base you can use.

Roger

1996 Chev Astrovan Electrical / Lighting Systems   

The anti-lock light came on then the power windows, wipers, cruise control, radio, a/c, fan quit. There was like a pop like a circuit breaker being triped, around the passenger side dash

Hello, To have so many things quit at the same time along with the "pop" sound you heard there may be a power distribution fuse at fault.

Please inspect the fuses in the fuse/relay box under the hood by the battery, in particular the BATT MAXI FUSE #7 (50 amp). Has this fuse failed?

Roger

Hello, Thanks for your answer. I changed the fuse but it only lasted a few minutes. I changed the fuse a couple more times and it still blew, while I was driving the check engine light came on, so I stop at a AutoZone and they checked the code it came back as (P0719) brake switch circuit low input. The guy said there might be a reset button on the brake switch, but, what I could feel I didn't find one. So when I got home I replaced the fuse again and rolled up the front windows, and then i just left the fuse out. The van has only 47,000 miles on it and hasn't been wrecked or anything. I hope this helps. (fuses are expensive). Thanks so much for you helping me with this. Morris

Do I have the correct fuse identified? Fuse #7 (50 amp)

I asked if this fuse had failed but I didn't mean for you to replace it until we take some steps to isolate the system with the short. 50 amps is alot!!

Please advise and I'll list the things this fuse powers and we can begin diagnosis.

Roger

Hey Roger, Sorry bout that it was in the right place but the fuse was only a 40 amp I still have the old one if you need me to put it back. When the engine light came on the blown fuse was in the fuse panel and when the guy at AutoZone got the check engine code the blown fuse was still in.

Still need you to confirm the Fuse Number that popped. If there was a 40 amp fuse in the fuse 7 spot that calls for a 50 amp fuse, it is possible no defect is present.

If a 50 amp fuse has blown we have trouble to address.

Roger

Hi, Will you please update? How are you doing with this one?

Roger

1995 Chev Astrovan Electrical / Lighting Systems   

The wippers work part of the time. and if I stop and start the van they may not work at all. If I leave them on they they may suddenly start working again or not. Which part is best culprit. Thanks,

Most likely in the turn signal/wiper/cruise control(if equiped)switch.If turn signals and cruise fuction but wipers intermitantly,I'd look here first.

1995 Chev Astrovan Drive Train / Driveline   

I had a vibration at some speeds; replaced the U-joints, also was leaking fluid out of the rear end; (seal or); also noticed there is some movement at the front of the driveshaft, where it goes into the transmission;(does a bushing have to be replaced in the transmission?) This is a 2wd vehicle.

Hi, No bushing should need replaced on the transmission output shaft.

If you are sure of the tires condition and balance and there is no dirt/mud on the wheels you could consider having the driveshaft balanced.

How many miles on this one? Did you fix the leaks?

Roger

What happened? Did you intend to release the question?

Roger

1994 Chev Astrovan Electrical / Lighting Systems Dimming When idling Always

I JUST CHANGED MY BATTERY AND ALTERNATOR WITH NEW PARTS, YET MY GAUGE SHOWS THAT I'M NOT CHARGING. MY BATTERY CABLES ARE STRONG AND I HAVE A GOOD POSITIVE CONNECTION ON THE NEW ALTERNATOR. PLEASE HELP!!!

What engine, please? All other gauges on the dash okay?

Have you checked the voltage at the battery posts with the engine running? Should be 13.8-14.2 VDC.

Please advise,

Roger

Will you please update the status of this question?

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, I'm still hoping to hear from you. Have you read my previous message?

Thanks,

Roger

1994 Chev Astrovan All Part Groups   

transmision does all the shifting to 4th gear and runs great but after i solw down and stop, it stays in a gear only (seams 3rd) and it will not star working OK unless i stop turn the ignition off and restart and it works OK untill the car need to lower gears and get stuck again.

Transmision is OK and all sensors and preasures are fine.

My transmision mechanic says that I need to change the main computer since the shifting instructions come from it.

Should I do that?

Possible, did he observe the computer not commanding a downshift when it should have?

I'll assume no 'check engine' light or other running problems. Also that he ruled out sensors, solenoids, etc.

affirmative. no check engine ever on and once it stops red light and tries to move again, it stays in lower gear engine reving up at 60 miles and only stoping and turning ignition on, the systems works again.
I did not know if the my mechanic observed that instruction from the computer. just said the transmision has no problem that he can tell
if i buy the cumputer [redacted] do i have to change the blue module inside? I did not change it when I received one and the car hasdly got all 6 cylender working. I was told I have to change the blue module from my computer...

It depends if it matches your vehicle. If it is the same you can use it. If it is for another set up (IE- different engine, etc) you'll need to change it. I'd try to find a used one (with a warranty) that comes with a matching prom (module, chip).

does it mean the last 4 letters? or just coming from and astro like mine?
exchanging the chip from mine would it work?

can you recomend where to get the computer with the same module? I would send the whole number and letters and the vin number of my van

Try the all-parts.com home page. You can send your query to numerous salvage yards.

There are also numerous sellers on ebay.com.

If not of these work let me know and I'll find an alternative source.

You can still use the 'prom' out of yours if you wish. It just would be nice to replace everthing at once (no need to second guess whether the prom is good then).

thanks doug:
I will try to get the whole think and if I fail locating it I will contact you.

Luis

1994 Chev Astrovan All Part Groups   

I just bought a used astrovan 94. The van had been sitting for about 5 months prior. I was driving it home and it seemed to be loosing power, the drive was only a few miles. I got to a turn and it lost power and died. When I tried to resart it, it would turn over but would not start. We got it started once by holding the gas down but when we let off the gas it would die.

Might be bad (old) gas , a sensor problem, (scan for codes) dirty air filter, or plugged catalytic converter.Check those and let me know.

what do you mean scan for codes?

there is gas coming from the catlytic converter and the exhaus

Most auto repair shops have a scanner. It reads computer codes, if it is a sensor problem. Some auto parts stores offer that service for free.Sounds like it running way too rich.

1994 Chev Astrovan Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Driving down road at night, van dies. No lights, no engine, no horn, nothing. 10 seconds later lights return, I restart it and go on my way. Day 2, same thing, Day 3 same thing 70 miles away, Day 4 dies and does not return. Will turn over well but still no lights, no fuel pump, no horn, no starting. Fusable links behind battery feel OK. Is there a relay or circuit breaker to check?

Triple check the battery cables (remove and clean the terminals, install a washer if you have side terminal battery clamps), including the engine and chassis ground.

1994 Chev Astrovan Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I am driving at highway speeds when my astrovan just quits running. I get no headlights and the electricity stops to the radio but I can crank the starter. I usually wait about 30 seconds and the van starts again. I have tried to start it immediately and it won't start after it stalls. It has happened in the past when I switched to high beams but the last time it just happened with no input from me.

First thing you MUST do is have it scanned for codes.
Also remove and clean the battery terminals and do the same at the starter connections.
I have seen problems down at the starter end.
Then remove the big plug on firewall below the powerbrake unit.
A sensor that occasionally quit (and not show on the scan) is the crankshaft position sensor.

what does the the big plug on firewall below the powerbrake unit do? After I unplug it do I leave it unplugged?

No, just unplug it and examine it for corrosion.It is the main conductor(s) between engine and dash. Must be connected to run.

1993 Chev Astrovan Fuel System Won't Start  

Replaced the fuel pump. Van started and ran on the jack stands. Let down to the ground and the the fuel pump would not run. Is there a fuel cutoff switch that I am not aware of. I can find no such thing. Looks like to me I need to pull the tank AGAIN.

I ran into the same problem on a customers Astro van the cure was a bad ground feeding off the fuel pump harness connecting to the mid cross member by a 10mm bolt. The bolt had come loose and caused the whole no start problem. That would be my first check. If I can be of further assistance you can contact me direct at [redacted] upon accepting this response

Good Luck
Walt Boyer
ASE Master Tech

1993 Chev Astrovan Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

my brakes pull badly to the right when applying brakes. I have new calipers,new pads ,new front brake hoses,new rotors.the system has been bled twice.have noticed that there is a little more pressure on the right side when bleeding.please help as it is dangerous to drive in the rain like this.

Two things come to mind would be the tire pressures are uneven, and there might be an obstruction in the brake line(damaged line or proportioning valve)
Ensure the rear brakes are adjusted and working properly , as that can cause a pull too.

1992 Chev Astrovan Electrical / Lighting Systems   

No charge to battery...replaced Alt... Alt test good on bench test, not charging on vehicle. Red wire on back of alt shows 12 Volts...Gauge shows discharge when lights or a/c is turned on. Can I run wires from the flat plug (two wires)in back direct?? Problem may be in harness... where should they connect to if I want to bypass the harness?

Which engine do you have?

engine is a V-6 engine code K

Turn the key On and test for voltage at the small brown wire to the alternator. This should be the wire that 'jumps' the alternator to get it charging.

Also check the fuses, the 'gauges' fuse particularly.

Key on..NO power at brown wire...alternator is OFF of the vehicle..brown wire is at connector but no power...fuses and fusable link look ok.....

You could install a bulb in a fused circuit to jumper the brown wires, or trace the wire back to find the problem.

1992 Chev Astrovan Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I need to know where the Door lock Relay, Delay Relay and the Door Lock Delay Module is Thanks Tim

Relay - Power Door Lock On your 1992 Chevrolet Truck Astro Van 2WD 4.3L TBI , the Relay - Power Door Lock is located:

Front seating area, passenger side, under dash, behind kick panel, mounted on fenderwell.

Relay - Power Door Lock Delay On your 1992 Chevrolet Truck Astro Van 2WD 4.3L TBI , the Relay - Power Door Lock Delay is located:

Front seating area, passenger side, under dash, behind kick panel, mounted on fenderwell.

I'm trying to be sure where the door lock delay module itself is located. I'm looking.

Roger

Hi Roger thanks for your help the door lock relay and I think the modul are mounted between kick panel and heater on a bracked I know I would not have found them without your help. Both front doors work perfect the slider and rear door do not work at all that is y I was going to replace modul & delay relay but dealers do not have what do you think Thanks Tim

Tim, open the sliding and rear door and find the contact buttons located on the van body. These contact buttons need to be tested for voltage when someone activates the door locks.

The buttons on the body and the doors can fail to make contact if there is dirt, corrosion or poor alignment or a weak spring that should make the buttons touch/mate when the door is closed.

See what is going on in these areas and see if there is a resistance problem that keeps current from doing the job.

Roger

Hi Roger Itested the buttons on slider aline goodtop button open 11.30volts botton lock 11.50 volts???? Rear door does not have bottons tested by grd from battery to plug open 12.17 close 12.17volts good I wander if buttons onfront door to rear no good on ground side thanks again Tim

Can you remove the trim panels on the slider and the rear door to locate and disconnect the door lock actuators?

With these doors closed test for power by using a test light with one end on one wire terminal and the other end of the test light on the other wire terminal of the disconnected connector.

Does the test light illuminate when you use the door lock switch in both lock and unlock?

Roger

I wish I did the light test when I started this The light comes on both sides of plug and I get a reading of 12.30 to 12.35 on both sides of plug with doors closed Plugs on correct and tight motors do not work Both motors are new sorry but i'm lost Thanks Tim

The test light comes on with the lock and also with the unlock command. When the connector is disconnected for the test this verifies that power gets to the actuator motor and the ground is good.

But what does the actuator motor do with the power? You said the actuator motors are new? Will the actuators work if not connected to the lock linkage? Is the lock linkage binding?

Roger

Hi both actuator motors work the back door works some times and slider does not work is there a trick to ajost them to make them work they do not seem to be binding but there is no ajustment for them thanks for your help Tim

Tim,

It may be that the contact buttons are not allowing enough amps through to operate the actuators. Volts without amps will not do work....it just lights the test light.

The only trick I can suggest is to clean the contact buttons and ensure they align and mate with reasonable friction from spring tension if applicable.

The installation of the actuator would not allow for adjustment that I know of. Linkage can get bent or lack lubrication but other than that I can't think of what else you might try.

Roger

Again thanks for your help but I give up the rear door works some times and slider never I have looked at all lines and none seem to be bent and I have lubed all Thanks Tim

Do you have a wiring diagram? I'll neede your email address to send one to you.

Looking at the diagram I found today I see that there is a side door jam switch that enables the lock input on the door lock control module. I wonder if this is why the sliding door never works?

Roger

Thanks [redacted] Tim

I sent the diagram. Check your email and your spam filters just in case.

Roger

1992 Chev Astrovan Fuel System   

1992 chevy astro van 4.3 won't start. wasn't getting good pressure, changed fuel pump and filter. getting good pressure to intake now, still won't start. turns over good. has pressure at intake to inlet plenium at the pressure test vlv.

Hello, Do you have spark from the plug wires? Do you have power to the fuel injectors and coil?

Please advise,

Roger

1990 Chev Astrovan All Part Groups   

van will start at a low idle for a couple of minute and start blowing black smoke and will stall out and wil not start again . Let it sit for a long time an it will start the same way again. it has put two codes a 12 & 15. I cannot find a temp sencor on intake or block.Parts store sold me one but what it looks like is not on motor . Thank you.

Use the following link for instructions on testing and changing the sensor. Copy and Paste the following link into your Address Bar-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/11/87/f[redacted] 87f7.jsp

Simply follow the top radiator hose to the thermostat housing and the instructions above should tell you the rest. I have assumed your engine is fuel injected.

1990 Chev Astrovan Drive Train / Driveline   

1990 2.5L 4L60 automatic transmission. Transmission make a loud ker-chunk when comming to a stop. Appears to be issue with shift from 2nd to 1st gear. Does not make noise if manually shifted. Runs fine at highway speeds. Is it time for a rebuilt transmission?

First check the condition/level of the fluid.Hold the dipstick up to the sun and see if you see any metal flakes or dirt.
If fluid dirty, change it and filter.
Modern trans do not give you traditional warning (slipping) like the old ones.The one I changed last weekend, just gave a shudder and quit. It only had 60,000 miles too!
If clunk persists, start shopping around for a deal on a replacement

1990 Chev Astrovan Engine   

Engine stalls when coming to a stop light or backing in to a parking spot

Hello,

Do you get any check engine light while the engine is running?

If not-

Start by giving the throttle body bore and blade a good cleaning with a brush and throttle body cleaner. Also remove and clean the idle speed motor and its port into the throttle body. This is good maintenance either way. Give me an update.

We have replaced the O2 sensor: No change. Cables, distributor,there seems to be a low vacuum but cannot find ouy why.

Low vacuum can be caused by a plugged catalytic converter, which will also cause power loss on acceleration. Have you checked vacuum with a gauge?

Vacuum is about 14.3",s. (Normal between 15 and 23)Lots of power when accelerating. Checked with propane for possible intake manifold leak.(Engine did not speed-up during test)Exchanged O2 analyser. Idle motor checked with another one. NO change... cleaned fuel intake port......frustated mechanic He is going to try some more things to-nite...Is 18 years and 300K KM. the life-span for this Astro? love the van and would like to keep it a while longer ...Please help with the solution to this problem It keeps me awake BIG challenge to find it...

Does the engine speed up when wheel is turned (computer ups idle slightly to compensate for load on engine to operate power steering) or the A/C is turned on? This would indicate if the idle speed motor is functional. Also- fast idle when the engine is cold would indicate same.

Has he check cylinder compression to rule out a timing/mechanical issue?

Does it chug to a stop? Or stall as if the idle speed it to low or lack of power?

1989 Chev Astrovan Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I was installing a new stereo and at some point in the process, I caused a short which burnt a fuseable link. I replaced the link but have not been able to restore power. I have done a continuity check onm the wire whose link I replaced and seem to be ok all the way to the interior fuse block. The following are without power: radio, all interior lights, cigar lighter, power mirrors, wipers.

Hello, Where did you find the fusible link you replaced? At the junction block, or at the starter? What color was the link?

Turn the ignition switch to ON. Ensure you have power output on Pink and Brown wires leaving the ignition electrical switch.

Please advise,

Roger

Fix this one yet? To close this question please click on OK to finish up. Or, just tell me what you need that will help.

I thank you,

Roger

1988 Chev Astrovan Electrical / Lighting Systems   

the ecm2or b fuse cant make the last digit,it keeps blowing.would like to know what this fuse controls,have no fuel pump run up when i turn key on

Let me see what I can find for you. What engine please?

Roger

4.3

Okay, It's the ECM/Batt fuse and it powers your fuel pump relay.

What is your email address? I'll send you a wiring diagram.

When you replied before you released the question. That takes the question away from me for others to answer.

Please click on reply but not release...

Roger

thank you,my e mail is [redacted]

does this mean it is powered even with the key off,jus as soon i put the new fuse in,its got a good ach when blows

Yes! The ECM/Batt fuse is hot at all times.

I've sent the email with the diagram.

Roger

Did you get my reply to your email? With the relay removed and the key OFF does the fuse still blow immediately??

Roger

1988 Chev Astrovan Fuel System   

fuel shuts down when engine reaches operating temp

Probably a faulty coolant temp sensor.(on intake beside thermostat)Might want to get it scanned for codes, even if there are no 'check engine' light.

replaced coolant sensor,oil pressure switch.oxygen sensor.fuel pump 2times.pump relay,rebuilt tbi unit.even swaped ecm used same prom.engine runs great until operating temp reached.shuts down,no start until cold

When it shuts down, it might be the fuel pump or the relay that is stopping. Do a pressure test when it quits. Try wiring 12 volts directly to pump at that time. Sometimes the electrical pump in tank fails when hot. A crankshaft position sensor might fail and set no codes also.

thanks will do voltage and pressure test. let you know if i find something [redacted] happy new year!

1988 Chev Astrovan Fuel System   

one day last week I stopped to look at a house. The van has idled a little high for the past 6 months. (about 1100-1200rpm)The van was idling for about 15 mins. all of the sudden it idled way down real quick. Sounded like it was gonna die. I got in it to leave and it would barely go. It would bog down real bad until you would get up to about 50mph. it had a horrible smell and was running real erratic. I figured maybe I fowled a plug. I replac4ed all plugs. Still did it. I replaced the throttle positioning sensor, still did it. I replaced the idle air control valve, still did it. I rebuilt the fuel prssure regulator and now it runs way worse than it did before. It will barely go 30 to 40 mph and it is spitting and sputtering the whole time. Please help cant figure it out.

Hello,

Any black smoke from the exhaust? What did the old plugs look like, any black sooty deposits?

Did you check the plug wires? How old are these?

no black smoke at all... plug wires are good, dist cap is good, rotor button is good. the number 2 piston spark plug was a little wet with gas.... all other 5 spark plugs were dry and just looked like normal use. the motor has been rebuilt. the motor has 84000 miles on it... all highway miles.

In darkness look at the plug wires and see if there is any stray electricity. Use caution around moving engine parts.

Is the check engine light coming on? You may have a sensor out of range.

What was the horrible smell? I wonder about an exhaust restriction (plugged converter).

no convertor on the vehicle. single exaust back to one muffler that splits to duals. No check engine light. hooked it up to a computer and had no tripped sensors or no faults. i will double check the wires or better yet i will just buy new ones. better safe than sorry. let me know if you think of anything else. is there a possibility that it could be a bad computer?

The computer (ECM) is possible but difficult to pinpoint.

What did the horrible smell remind you of? Does the oil smell of gasoline?

Make sure the fuel pressure regulator is not leaking through the vacuum hose.

The smell was almost like bad gas. It was horrible, it would burn your eyes just to be breathing it. I don't see any vacuum lines by the regulator. It is throttle body and the regulator is is on the back of the tbi. It just blows my mind that it went from running like a champ to barely running at all and nothing I have found has been the cause.

You probably better check cylinder compression to rule out a mechanical problem (timing chain or head gasket). If you don't have a compression gauge call your local chain parts store (Autozone or Advance) and see if they one available in their tool loan program. Look for above 100 lbs compression, with uniform results. E.G.- 140-150 lbs on all cylinders. Let me know the results.

1986 Chev Astrovan Engine Stalling When idling When warm 

86 astrovan w/approx 200k miles. drives great, but after warmed up it wants to stall while at traffic lights or stop signs, especially when ac is on. also while backing up while turning the wheel. just replaced distributor, dist cap, rotor, and dist moduel. any ideas?

carb or fuel injected

throttle body injected

idle air control solonoid is bad or clogged located on side of throttle body

i cleaned the throttle body, and replaced the iac. the problem still exsist. any other suggestions?

replce the iac

i did replace the iac.

what is rpm in park

2k maybe. never checked it. but after it idles down, it sounds real smooth

check all your vac cum lines one could be off or in the wrong place that could make a big difference

i recently replaced all the lines, and they all seem to be in the right spots

what about the modulator vale have u chaged it or checked it it could be bad it will cause that to

what exactly is that?

i replaced the modulator on the distributor if thats what you mean.