Chev Beretta

1995 Chev Beretta All Part Groups Malfunction When idling Always

95 Baretta PCV valve causing the engine to stall.
3.1 L, A/C, AUTO, in Michigan
Service engine soon lamp on. Checked the PCV valve and it had a light brown sluge buildup on it. Replaced it and the engine stalls out right away. Engine runs fine without being hooked up to it.
Can't get any codes because of the wierd plug under the steering wheel. AutoZone tried to get codes but could not.
WHAT CAN I DO NEXT

You will have to find a garage that has a scanner to access trouble codes. Some 94-95 Gm's are partially OBD2 compliant, some scanners work some don't.
Stay away from shops that charge $100+ to scan for codes, instead find a shop that charges for the time it takes to run scan. (30 minutes at $60hour= $30).
Make sure to get the actual trouble code and let us know. Mistakes are often made by mechanics and DIYers alike, assuming a code indicates a certain problem. This is not the case with every code.

Things you can do before diagnostics is check vacuum lines and connectors to sensors.

It was running OK before I checked the PCV so why would the engine stall when I hook up the new one? I don't get it. The new one was bought at NAPA with help from the guy behind the counter and it looks exactly like the old one.

Do you still have the old one? If so reinstall and see if stall is still there. If it still stalls you may have bumped something during the installation, especially if the check engine light came on after you installed new pcv.

thanks for the fast reply.

the old one does the same thing and I traced the VAC line back and all appears to be OK.

Inspect all vacuum lines and electrical connectors, in hope of finding something you may have disturbed. wise troublecodes will have to be checked to determine fault(s).

1994 Chev Beretta Fuel System Chugging When driving 

How can I tell what flow rate of a fuel injector to buy? Does it matter if I use 21 lb fuel injectors when I only need 19?

Your car will run better with the original spec injectors. Larger injectors will cause the car to run rich, burn more gas, turn the check engine light on and fail polution tests.

Thank you for that information. Now how exactly do I know what the specs are on my car's fuel injectors? I don't know the flow rate of them...

If you want your car to run like new, I recommend ACDelco injectors. Part# 217-302 for the 4 cylinder or [redacted] for the 6 cylinder. If you want to use a different brand for whatever reason, they should be able to direct you to the right one for your car.

1991 Chev Beretta Ignition System Malfunction When idling Always

the second plug on front bank has no spark. I have replaced the wire and ignition moduael

hopefully you have a malfunctioning spark plug try a known good one and see what happens then.
If that is not the problem you may want to do a compression check on that cylinder
I hope this helps

new plugs,im not getting spark from the wire(new wires) and i have replaced the coil pack

Well since you replaced to entire system you must check for power input for the coilpack
definately check your fuses

no more i had to take to the dealer.It was the spark modual that the coil packs plug into

I am glad to hear that the problem is nailed
take care now

1989 Chev Beretta Engine Won't Start When repairing No pattern

After rebuilding the engine on my 89 beretta, I was unsuccessfull at many attemts to start her. I had spun a rod a few years ago and was still driving around before parking in the back yard. Replaced many parts inclueding crankshaft, rings, one rod and new bearings. All went well until i tried to start and rediognous a new problem. First no fuel pump, then hot wire the oil presure sensor to activate pump.also tested with hot lead above driverside shock tower. All other wire were properly hooked up. All fuses were check and double checked.Inside and out but "no injector was releasing any fuel. There was also good fuel presure and spark from coils. Tested self-diognostic no change in any thing, still 12. ONly then started guessing maybe crankshaft or sensor, so replaced the sensor. Maybe computer. PLEASE HELP her run strong again. 2.8 1989. please tell me something I don't know. OR maybe proper vin number for crankshaft. I order by make model and year, but i dont know what else to do.

Are you saying that the fuel pump will only run when you 'hot wire' it? And that you have no injector pulse?

Disconnect fuel injector connector. Using a voltmeter (black lead to batterys neg post or known good ground) (positive lead to injector connector) see if you have voltage at one of the injector wires. This will test
to see if supply voltage is present for the injector (injectors work by the computer pulsing the ground signal on and off, we will get to that next).

How long has the car sat?

Yes, Im saying i have to put a paper clip in the oil presure sensor. to connect the circut. I thought that was ok, because there was no oil presure. But im not sure if it is OK. Thank You for repling to my messege. 1/2/05 Im writing back today and just read your messege. This morning I had replaced the computer and there was the same result. There is power at the fuel injectors them self, but it seams to be no ground from the computer. I can't say I have used a volt meter, just a test light with a buzzer. Im sure everything is connected right. But It has been a good year since i started disasimbling it. Please Help!

Double check engine grounds, make sure you have hooked the wires back up.

The ignition module (located under the coil packs) can cause the problem you are having (and if you were wondering, yes you can have spark and still have a bad ignition module on these cars). Some auto parts stores (ie- autozone) will test the ignition module off the car.

1989 Chev Beretta Engine  When repairing No pattern

After rebuilding the engine on the 1989 2.8 V6. I ran in to trouble. I replaced the ECM and the ignition control module. STILL NO PULSE FROM THE ECM TO GROUND THE INJECTORS. Finished today tapping into wires to check volts and grounds. Ecm main ground is good, all hi and low volts are correct from ignition module to ECM, Just NO PULSE FROM ECM TO INJECTORS. FUEL pressure is good and the injectors all have correct volt. WHAT CAN BE WRONG WITH THIS SYSTEM, ARE THE INJECTORS ALL JUST BAD. BECAUSE I'M NOT HEARING NO CLICKING AT ALL. JUST NO GROUND FROM ECM.

Hello, Do you have secondary ignition spark?

Please advise,

Roger

What is a secondary ignition spark? Where does it come from, and where does it go? Thanks

I have spark and the car will start on spraying fuel into the intake. Im going to return the computer I bought, and get a new one. there is just no pulse coming from the computer to ground the injectors. what is the secondary ignition. If tou need diagrams I can scan hem for you.

Secondary ignition spark is the high voltage spark from the ignition coil that fires the spark plugs. You say you have spark so that takes care of that question.

Did the computer you bought come without a PROM? Did replacing the computer call for transferring the prom from the old computer to the new one? Are all the pins on the PROM straight and is the Prom fully seated/installed in the socket?

Have you checked all of the fuses in the fuse box inside the car while the key is "ON"?

I'll look tomorrow for a trouble chart for the injectors and try to suggest a repair path.

Roger

Do you have a FAX number I can send info to? Would a cover sheet for the fax be necessary?

Please advise,

Roger

not that i know . Before i had my own fax machine

Have you returned/replaced the computer you bought yet? The computer definately has the driver module that pulses the ground for the fuel injectors.

Does a friend, neighbor, or family member have a fax at home or office I could send info to? Would you like for me to snail mail the charts to you?

Roger

Soon I will hopfully return the computer. Pep boys is making me go throw the manager.He said yes, but i didnot have my reciet.All of my dad GM service and fuel injector and digram books are close but not close enough/wrong color wires and seems like different relay and pin4 the ECM. I would be happy if you were to send them snail mail because i do have a little time. And I will pay the fee. Just last time i was on here i didnot know that. I had posted a question and someone told me it was the ignition module so i ok the pay. Then had no more info. So please send them snail mail or email . I started checking relays nere the map sensor and i found one had been hot wire strait acrost I don,t know if that a problem or not Replaced it and still no codes are coming up I also tried placing a 3.9k resestor in the a-b of the ADL or what ever that piece is that you put the paper clip in to come up with the codes. Also i no have an ohm meter/ multi meter VIN code W 89 beretta 2.8

I'll need your name and mailing address to send the info by snail mail.

Please advise,

Roger

Roger, Please mail too. clinton whitney 1431 n 72ave hollywood Fl 33024 2.8 beretta Vin W 1989

All right, mail doesn't run today due to the holiday. I'll mail the info tomorrow. I hope it helps.

You can let me know how you do with the computer return/exchange. It may be that simple.

Roger

Roger i have recieved your letter today 1-22 and im going to try and follow the step but im stil positivly sure about to things. that i may have replaced the computer wroung and there could be something grounded out causing the computer to malfuction. do you know any way to check the computer or if any sensor could be in the bumpber prohibiding it from reciving fuel.

Did you transfer the computer plug-in prom modules from the old one to the new one? Have you removed them to be sure that no pins are bent? Was the key OFF when you plugged the new computer in?

I don't know of a test you can do to check and see if the computer is still a good one. Did you find your receipt? The seller won't be able to test it either, but with a receipt he can replace it under warranty.

The same sensor signal is used for spark and for fuel injection. If you have spark there should not be a sensor problem. Did you check the fuses?

Let me know how it goes,

Roger

ok i will let you know

Thanks.

Roger

Any news here?

Roger

Yes I have brought it to a shop a they are putting new injectors in. they say they don't know why but they are bad. Now the car starts but, i have other problems like tighting every thing i missed i have just drove today for the first time and its not pretty

1988 Chev Beretta Fuel System   

The car runs fine one time, the next time it will not start and another time it will quit while running. It has been suggested that it might be the fuel sensor. I have no idea where it is located.

This is usually the crankshaft sensor or the ignition module. The crankshaft sensor is a little more common and much less expensive. You can test the crankshaft sensor with an ohm-meter and usually catch a bad one. Measure the ohms of the sensor when it will start, then again when it won't. If the difference is much (less temp changes) the sensor is bad.

Thanks, I will check it out, but where is the crankshaft sensor and how does it cause the car not to run.

If you have the 2.8l it is on the bottom (firewall side) of the engine block. The wires lead to the ignition module. You can unlplug the connector at the module and measure ohms here.

It will cause a loss of spark and fuel.

Appreciate the help, can't get to it today, but will check it out soon. Thanks