Chev Blazer

2005 Chev Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems   

My speedometer has stopped working. Now my interior lights and headlights blink. What does this mean?

It could be two seperate things, if they didn't not happen at the same time. If the check engine light came on the vss (speed sensor) may have failed. If not the problem could be in the instrument cluster.

Does the lights blink when the vehicle is running or only when turned off? By all means check battery connections and have the charging system checked. If neither of these finds the problem you will probably need to have it put on a scanner to what body trouble codes are found.

2004 Chev Blazer Ignition System   

When car sits for approximately 8 hours or more, it won't start. Had the garage check the battery and altenator and they are fine. Battery is fully charged. Weak beep of horn when setting alarm (manufacture-installed).

Hello,

How many miles on the vehicle?

What is the problem that prevents the engine from starting:

1. The starter doesn't crank the engine at all

2. The starter cranks the too slowly, as with a partially discharged battery

3. The starter cranks the engine at normal speed, but it does not start

Approx 44,000 miles. The starter does crank to start the engine, but there is a hissing noise when you turn the ignition key to shut it off. After sitting the starter cranks slowly to start.

Try disconnecting your battery cable over night. Make sure the battery is charged (example- after a ten minute or longer drive). Reconnect the next morning (or 8+). Does it start good now? This will let us know if the starter/circuit is drawing to many amps cold OR something is draining the battery when everything is (intended to be) turned off. This is call parasitic drain.

We disconnected both cables overnight(8+). We reconnected the battery cables and tried to start, the starter would turn slowly, but it would not start. When we hooked up cables to jump it, it started right away no problem.

Okay,

I think you should have your battery re-tested. Most chain autoparts stores (Advance Auto, Parts America, Autozone) will do this free of charge. Do you have DVOM (digital volt ohm meter)?

Alternatively you likely have a bad battery cable (clean replace as necessary). Note- the corroson can bleed down the cable (near the terminal) and be difficult to see. The other thing is starter is drawing to many amps when cold.

2002 Chev Blazer Ignition System   

I have a 2002 4.3l blazer with 60,000 miles. When I go from a cold start I have to crank over the engine 3 to 4 time for it to start and when it does start it rough for the first minute. Also when on the freeway the truck lurches every so often. I have checked the computer and it only had a code p0128 which is temp is always low. I am changing the thermostat today. I have changed the plugs, wires and fuel filter. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Giles
Thann

Yes it could be the thermostat is stuck open. The fact your getting a code tells me the temp sensor is o.k. As for the roughness and lurching, check for vacuum and air leaks around hoses,intake and manifold.Also look for an EGR valve that is stuck or leaking.Check the PCV valve too.Check and clean or replace the air cleaner.It woudnt hurt to run an additive in the fuel to clean the throttle body and injectors.

I have replaced the thermostat. I am asking about the hard start in the mornings it takes me 2-4 tries in order for the truck to start. I was wondering if it is the fuel regulator or something else

Hard starts can be attributed to the other items I mentioned.Poor fuel pressure can be another factor.

I am sorry I did not see the second half of your reply I thought the whole message was there when I first logged in. I have cleaned the pvc valve. It did not look gummed up but I cleaned it anyways. As to the air cleaner I replace it every time I do an oil change which I just did. I will run a cleaner when I fill up tomorrow. I will try to find the EGR valve and take a look at it. Thank you for your help I really appriciate it.

Give these a try.If no luck we'll try again in another direction.

Do you know where the EGR valve is located on a 2002 blazer 4.3l? I am have real problems locating it because I cannot see anything that looks like( http://replacement.autopartswarehouse.com/parts/autopartswarehouse/viewImage.jsp?image=img.autopartswarehouse.com/live/B[redacted] DEL.JPG )do you know where it is located? Thanks for all your help.

Should be located on intake manifold by the throttle body.You may need to take intake hose out of the way.

I took some pics and I put numbers on what I think could be the EGR valve the part with the number 2 is what I think it is.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b[redacted] cce8659a9fd[redacted] 8QbtGrJyyaY

and in this next photo is a generic pic of the engine with the intake hose off.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b[redacted] cce8659a9e[redacted] 08QbtGrJyyaY

If you could point it out I would be very appreciative.

2001 Chev Blazer Ignition System Won't Start  

2001 blazer 4x4 imported via Japan RHD has been a good runner now Motor will not start,replaced faulty rotor,checked fuel/pressure timing is erratic,checked timing sender on C.shaft ok,, think it is engine computer..what next? No GM dealer for blazer.live in New Zealand

Hello, What engine please? Please tell me more about "checked fuel/pressure timing is erratic"?

What was the defect with the rotor? Have you checked all fuses? Do you have spark?

Roger

Hi Roger,thanks for the prompt reply..Motor is 4.3 litre V6. Fuel pressure as per Mitchel workshop specs, I can give a more accurate report from my auto electrician. Spark was earthing through rotor.fitted a new one. fuses all checked and ok. spark is not firing at right point in crank rotation, is all over the place.Have had c.shaft sender checked and its ok.

What does the inside of the distributor cap look like? Any signs of moisture, cracks, carbon tracking?

Is the harmonic balancer all right? It's made up of concentric metal wheels bonded by rubber. If the rubber breaks down the rotation of the outer wheel is eratic and the timing mark will appear to jump around.

How many miles on this one? I wonder if the timing belt/chain has jumped on the sprokets?

Roger

Distributor cap had traces of moisture which I dried out with a heat gun when I replaced rotor,inside of cap is clean no visible tracking. Re harmonic balancer, will check tomorrow[Monday] and reply,also will get the fuel pressure levels. Vehicle is laid up at auto electricians.

I'll wait for your next message.

Roger

The good news is that we have got the blazer running. Removed distributor and cleaned the whole system,opened computer and checked for damage,found earth wire not conected so fixed it, cleaned all earth contacts, new set of plugs and it goes!! we are still not satisfied that the cure is final as no particular item appeared faulty. Maybe the poor earth conection to the computer was the main fault cause we couldn't figure the erratic spark. Thank you for your assistance. J.S.Boyes

You may have done it! Reference/feedback voltages used by the computer are only 5 volts dc by design. You can swiftly understand how a poor earth (raises resistance) would be trouble.

Do you have high humidity? Salt water air? Rusty vehicle frame and suspension parts? Such conditions here in America near the coasts really drive a good man mad when chasing electronic circuits.

Would you like to give a while to see how dependable the truck is?

We can easily leave the question open until you are confident all is well, then you may wish to close this quest.

Roger

Thanks Roger for your suggestions, I hope that I don't have to re-open this case. The vehicle has only 24,000ks[15,000miles] and as it is 2001 model thats not a lot of running.Coming from Japan it could have been subjected to a lot of humidity while not having a lot of running. I will cross my fingers and trust that it ok now.Regards John

When you decide to close the question you may click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button. When you do then All Parts will release my portion of the fee you have paid, and pay me.

Thanks,

Roger

I will leave the question open as suggested and wait to make sure the problem is solved, by all means pay the mechanic his fee from the $20.00 I paid

John, It's your option to leave the question open. Not a problem at all.

When you decide to close the question you may click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button. When you do THEN All Parts will release my portion of the fee you have paid, and pay me. That is the protocol.

Roger

DO NOT close off this enquiry.After extensive work by auto electrician the blazer miracleously came to life only to refuse to start the following morning. A day later and after much thought I removed the air cleaner cover and stuck an electric heat gun in, the reasoning being that the heat would tell the sensor to stop shoving so much petrol into the motor.Amazingly the motor burst into life and has been running fine since,[the heat gun removed]. I lack confidence in the Blazer that it might strand me somewhere beyond help. Can you give me a clue where the problem may be? I look foreward to your reply Richard. Regards John

Do you not have recourse with the auto electrician? What work was done that made the engine start?

The heat gun trick is unbelievable.

I'm thinking things over,

Roger

Hi Roger,the sparky thinks the heat gun trick is a unbeleivable to.In reply to what he had done.new rotor,checked spark to coil,from coil to plugs,new plugs,checked with computer all sensors,intake water temp etc were working as per specs,checked timing spark all over the place,added an earth wire to computer,cleaned distributor again,car started and ran well--then three days later stopped-same symptoms as before,I
used the heat gun in air intake and it started and ran
perfectly.Just makes me nervous it will let me down.Do these cars have a history of this sort of thing.My 98 Blazer has had mystery starting problems as well has a different com. box to the
2001 model.Maybe I should have stuck to Japanese Subaru's they never have broken down. Regards John

Too many rotors and spark plugs were replaced for me to believe they were part of the problem. I'm still skeptical.

When the scanner was connected how close did the coolant temperature sensor and the intake air temperature sensor read in comparrison before the engine started?

Crankshaft sensors fault more often when the symptom is no spark no injector pulse.

Roger

How are you doing here, please? I could use an update.

Any news?

Roger

Hi Roger, sorry for the delay I havn't forgotten you.Ok to answer your questions as best I can. The electrician swapped the timing sender with another-no diference,then worked his way through the rest of the electrical system and got it running eventually..then some days later it konked out again,identical symptons! thats when I got the idea of the heat gun,Lord knows why it worked but it has and its kept going[so far.I personally think there was a problem with earthing the computer and maybe flooding. I just rember the electrician telling me earlier in the piece that the injectors were pumping 60miliseconds and should have only been 10.
A lot of this is like a foreign language to me.I am just the poor paying customer.The bill came to over NZ $1000.00 which considering the time he spent and parts was not to bad.The Blazer is not in common usage here and the GM Dealer is 160 miles away and hasn't a clue as this model is from Japan[RH drive] If you can assist further I would appreciate hearing from you otherwise I think its time to call it quits. Thanks for your help. John Boyes

John, I cannot add anything to this event. With the condition no longer present the vehicle will pass every test known.

60 milisec pulse sent to an injector makes me think of a cold start senerio. Very cold! Once started and coolant temp starts climing the pulse would slow to the 10 milisec pulse for a warm engine at idle.

How a heat gun fixed that is beyond my experience in this industry. I shudder to think what will happen if this word gets out.

To receive a refund please write to All-Parts.com, Administrator, All-Parts.com and make your request known.

To accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me please click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

Cheers,

Roger

2001 Chev Blazer Heating / Cooling System   

HEAR BUBBLING WATER NOISE WHEN ACCELERATING,FROM HEATER CORE.

Sounds like air in your heater core. You may be able to remove it by loosening the upper heater core hose and squeezing the radiator hose to push all the air out, then retightening. If air keeps getting in the heater core, the most likely cause is a blown head gasket.

2001 Chev Blazer Heating / Cooling System   

The climate controls in my Blazer go from cold air coming out to very hot air coming out with the control settings not changed. I took it to a auto shop and was told a mod motor used for mixing cold and hot air was bad. That $800.00 repair did not fix the problem, Please help

Hello, There is a low pressure cycling switch that screws onto the accumulator. It might need replaced.

When the air blows hot look and see if the a/c compressor is engaged? Is it? No? Replace the low pressure cycling switch.

If yes, please advise.

Roger

No, the air compressor is not engaged while it is blowing hot air.

Attach a set of a/c gages and check the low side pressure. If it is a reading above 70 psi disconnect the low pressure cycling switch connector and jumper the two wire terminals in the connector together. Does the compressor run? Does the system cool?

If so, replace the low pressure cycling switch on the accumulator. It just unscrews and you should not lose freon.

Roger

The first time I checked it after the hot air started blowing the compressor was not engaged. I checked it again today and the compressor was engaged. Now what?

Today I drove the car about 5 miles. I turned on the air and hot air was coming out. This isn't just warm air, this is heater-hot air. I stopped the car and lifted the hood to check the compressor and it was running. I could tell that the air was working because there was condensate on the aluminum lines and they felt cold.

This takes us back to a door problem. A blend door is the one that directs air across the heater core and/or the a/c evaporator coil.

Your vehicle must have a blend door or a blend door actuator problem.

Your original question stated you paid for a 'mod' motor repair. Did you mean a mode door motor?

I want to get on the right track with you and now that we know the compressor is not the problem I want to direct attention to the HVAC doors.

Do you have recourse withe the $800 repair?

Roger

Do you have electronically controlled HVAC? Is this the full size Blazer?

Roger

Yes, it has the "auto" controls. I'm thinking it is the A/C Control Head - Automatic.

Lets see if a calibration proceedure will do anything, to calibrate:

1.Turn the ignition key Off.
2.Remove the fuse from the HVAC Control positive circuit. (Fuse #9 I/P Fuse Panel)

Note...The fuse must be removed for more than 60 seconds to clear the controlhead memory.

3.Wait at least 60 seconds.
4.Install the fuse.

Try the system operation.

Please advise,

Roger

2001 Chev Blazer Windows / Glass   

the window on the rear gate won't open, i followed the instrutions in the manual, and used a scewdriver thru the access hole in the gate to open the window, but no luck, i can move the opener but still the window doesn't open. not sure where to go from here, thanks for your help. i can hear the opener working when i push the button.

Try repeatedly engaging/disengaging the liftgate lock cylinder. Then keep trying the window release switch. Let me know if this gets the window open.

I've tried what you've suggested, and still no action, when i press the window button i can hear the window release work, but it won't release the glass section, i've also worked the release manually thru the acess hole with a scewdriver, it's like the release switch is disconnected, it makes a funny sound with i move it, or press the button. almost like an air device. hope this helps

In this case you will need to remove/inspect the release latch. The first step is to remove the liftgate trim panel. What is troubling is one of the first steps in removing the trim panel is to 'release the window.' Can you tell by looking if it is possible to remove the liftgate panel withou actually releasing the window? I'll continue looking to see if I can find instructions for you situation.

it looks like the only way to get the trim panel off is to just rip it off, i don't see any other way to get at it, is there any other options, if i did tear the trim off is it possible to get a replacement panel, or is the car to old, give me your best options and i'll go from there. Thanks

Is it possible to squeeze the panel past the window or does the window completely block panel removal?

I can send instructions on panel removal, along with images of the latch, perhaps seeing how it works would give you an idea how to actuate the latch.

Thanks alot, please send me all the info you have, maybe if i can see how the latch works would be a big help, and no i don't see anyway to get the panel pass the glass. i noticed on each side of the gate itself there is some kind of knob but i've tried to move them with no luck, don't know if they have anything to do with the gate or not.

Sorry, I forgot to add I need your email address to send the information because images won't display here.

Also, do you have 2 or 4 wheel drive? It may not make a difference, but when I select the vehicle it asks which... err on the side of caution.

My address is [redacted] , and the rig is a 4 wheel drive, 4 door

2001 Chev Blazer Fuel System   

2001 Blazer - cranks doesnt start -unless - if I pour a little gas into where the injectors are it will start after a crank or two - after that it runs great - until it is time to start it again - repeated this cycle for a couple of days after checking for problems with battery, alternator, etc. Electrical seems ok

My 2001 Blazer engine is a Vortec 4300 V6 (additional info I did not include in original post - whoops - sorry about that)

Hello, Does the fuel pump run for two seconds when the key is first turned to the on position?

There is a fuel pump relay in the under hood fuse box. Have you replaced it?

Roger

Yes, I actually drove it a bit today after starting it by priming it with premium and it then it actually started a couple of times after that (5,10, and 25 minutes later) on it's own. While driving or right before that is I had added some fuel injector cleaner, new air filter, and Dr Lucas oil treatment - I tried also to retrain the passcode. It did not work as now it will not start - SECURITY light is blinking nowon the dash. The relay was tested ok and I did drive about 30 miles including the freeway and it ran great (until I shut it off that is)

There is a backup circuit through the oil pressure switch that will run the fuel pump so long as oil pressure is present.

When you prime the engine with fuel and then start it...oil pressure builds up and the backup circuit keeps the fuel pump running.

My question was "Do you hear the fuel pump run for two seconds and stop when the key is turned to the ON position?"

Does your ignition key have a micro-chip in the blade?

Roger

I went out and had my neighbor listen - he could not hear anything he was right in the back of the Blazer - the battery was or is weak from previous cranking but.. the damn thing started and pretty quick with a low battery ... go figure... it is still running outside my door ... but I seriously doubt this problem is over ...what gives ?

I have a regular key and the remote or electronic key with the lock and unlock button on it (and horn alarm and tailgate window opener)

and yes it started with no primer - the air filter and intake and all was all buttoned up and with the hood closed like it should be

Rats! If it starts it will pass every test we have.....did the security light correct itself?

Roger

another footnote - I have switched to premium gas over the last couple of days - by now the tank is pretty much all premium gas and some fuel injector cleaner - although it was running great up until a few days ago on regular. Also this engine had seen nothing but synthetic motor oil up until about a year ago when I started running with well - motor oil

about half an hour ago - I was sitting in there and watching the security light flash until I got bored - I needed a break - so came in and started researching on the net again

Premium fuel and non-synthetic engine oil are choices that should not alter a normal engine start up.

Roger

Back to reality, Blazer won't start. Fuel pump sounds like it is doing something for two seconds then stops.
SECURITY light on dash is flashing.

Passlock issue
fuel pressure regulator
fuel pump
fuel pump filter
crankshaft sensor
throttle position sensor
distributor
MAP sensor
oxygen sensors
mass airflow sensor
camshaft sensor
pvc valve

What do ya think ?

I know some mechanics who think $$$$$$$

Have you checked for diagnostic codes? Anti-theft codes start with a B....example B2948.

Roger

We tried to check but - most of them were the ABS faults - this vehicle has the ABS and parking brake light and fault code problem - separate issue - my guy who checked the codes said they werent showing anything - the cig lighter fuse was blown and I have suspected a short somewhere - but we pinned out both fuse boxes fuse by fuse and found no shorts - I am tentatively going back there in the morning - mechanic is a home shop - he used to work for a dealer and has all the equip and tools - we checked the fuel vapor pressure and he said it was good I saw 400 I think which I think was metric pascals and that equates I believe - but that is something I want to confirm

the SECURITY is blinking again - before we replaced the cig lighter fuse I don't think I ever saw that - I never new it was there - I have had this Blazer only a year - it's got about 130k miles on it - my Dad had it and it was well maintained except - the ABS light thing - the fuel gauge doesnt work right - these are unrelated I believe ? maybe not ? these were the only issues - except my mileage MPG are low - I was driving two vehicles - now down to this one - runs great except for these little and now larger problems it appears

he didnt work for GM - just so you know - i forget which dealer - he seems knowledgeable and busy - but I don't know him well - first time I met him was the other day - but he is close by

he mentioned that the fuel pressure regulator is a typical problem - and I see on the net that is true - I am not sure if he aware of the well documented passlock problem - he did not mention it

I am in Central Valley CA and it is a bit of a jungle for auto repairs out here - I am curious if he is on the net much - my guess is prob not - I have had very mixed results though with other mechanics on other vehicles the last few years that I have been here - wish I could afford the dealer - but I am currently unemployed

I tried to go to Autozone tday - I thought I could double check the codes after the battery had been disconnected since we checked the other day - but they don't do that service anymore in CA I was told - that was a bummer!

Does it sound like the passcode is locking out the fuel pump ?

The Cig Lighter Fuse #2 (15 amp) powers the lighter socket, the Data Link Connector (DLC is where a scanner connects) and two terminals on the Vehicle Interface Module which would be relevent to OnStar.

If you pull this fuse out will the Security light stop illuminating? I don't see a common circuit for this fuse going to any part of security.

Does the Security light blink with the key on?

Roger

If Security passcode is problemmatic the engine will start but shut off right away.

Roger

The SECURITY light went off when the key is turned. It only came on when I turned the engine off - most recently anyway.

It does have ONSTAR though I have never used it or activated it - it was used in prior years I believe

I took the battery out to charge it, but I will check it out - if SECURITY stops flashing when I remove the cig lighter fuse - when I put the battery in - so the PASSCODE issue is not relevant - got it!

I bought a fuel pump filter today - I am not sure when it was last changed - how much of a factor might that be ?

Time Out! There is a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) 01-08-56-001A that is very interesting reading. Published in June 2001.

To save time will you Google the bulletin number and print it? If you do not get the bulletin please let me know and I will scan it to email for you.

Under conditions you will see "The Engine Cranks But Will Not Start And The Security Light Is Flashing."

Roger

so what you are saying is that DLC was not working initially - blown fuse - but after the fuse was replaced - then it was working - I did not realize that

Yes, If the cig lighter fuse is popped the DLC will not power up a scan tool for diagnostics.

Roger

can you send the link - I keep coming up with sites that want you to buy it

or [redacted] whatever is easier I appreciate it

i can see you have gone out of your way to help me considering your first response was at 6:30 am

I am very grateful

I'll print it, scan it to email and send it to the address you provided. Give me a few minutes to print five pages and send it your way.

Please check your email inbox, spam/junk folders for Subject 2001 Blazer TSB in about ten minutes. When I get this done I will say goodnight.

Roger

Perhaps there is a solution where I could then compensate you more - I am not sure how this service you are providing works quite frankly - you have been so responsive - I see a great model for an internet business here - too bad most customer service (in general) is 180 degrees the opposite - and we all pay premium for it !

Additional compensation will not be necessary. Thank you for your kind words. I'm happy to assist you.

My printer is singing away,

Roger

I will look forward to reading the bulletin - it sounds like you see it as particulary relevant - talk to you later thanks again over and out

Roger That!!

To close this question please click on OK to finish up. Or, just tell me what you need that will help.

I thank you,

Roger

2000 Chev Blazer Fuel System Sticking When accelerating Always

Pedal sticks only on initial acceleration. Checked link, ok, Was told that this is because oc carbon build up on the carburator butterfly, which I verified and wiped with a cloth to remove some of the sticking, but not all. What is the best way to clean this crbon off the carburator? Thanks pjb

Hello, You can do this:

You'll need a spray can of choke cleaner, a small acid core brush or equivalant, some rags and a cool temp light such as a flashlight or floresent drop light.

In a well ventalated area, remove the air inlet duct as needed to access the throttle valve and bore. With the key 'OFF', prop the throttle wide open so you can get to the coking built up on the valve and throttle bore. Use your light to inspect where the valve and bore touch when the throttle is closed.

Wear eye protectiuon and spray the identified area to wash loose the coking. Scrub the bore and valve as needed with your brush and wipe what you can reach with the rag to get the junk out of there. Spray the rag itself and wipe the valve and bore 'til you like what you see and its' as clean as possible.

Close the throttle and operate by hand to check your work. Works smoothly without sticking?? You're done. Reassemble and prepare to start the engine.

Clear the area of spectators as exhaust fumes will be heavy and smokey on start-up. Not a good idea for children to be around.

Press the accelerator about 1/3rd down and crank the engine 'til it starts. It will be stubborn at first due to an overly rich air/fuel mixture. Once the engine clears this excess chemical out, you're road ready.

The $150 at the dealer often includes flushing the fuel injectors too. You may find a fuel addative to put in your fuel tank to be adequate to keep things humming.

Does it run good? Throttle smooth to come off idle? Done!!


Roger

Hello, Have you tried to clean the throttle bore with this method I've suggested?

Please advise,

Roger

2000 Chev Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems   

wife backed into garage 11:00am, wanted to leave at 5pm. turned key everything went dead turned the key to the off position, clicking and buzzing sounds from under the dash ( sounds like relays opening and closing). At first I thought she had left the back hatch open and drained the battery. Put charger/booster on battery tried it same as above.
after a couple tries on boost the starter engaged then stopped and everything went dark. Battery is good after swap into my 03 blazer.

You might want to check the main terminal on the starter. GM traditionally has the main power wire for all systems, at this point also. A bad (loose) connection there would cause the above problems.

2000 Chev Blazer Drive Train / Driveline   

i purchased a used 2000 chevy s-10 blazer auto and when im coming home from work the tranny over heats and blows the fluid out its done this twice to me i am going to try a flush i need some advice on that too i am going to check the lines to the cooler now should i add an after market cooler or is this masking a bigger problem

you should have your whole cooling system flused out and the transmission oil changeg along with the filter.
There should be no need to upgrade your scooling system ,you need to find out why it is overheating

will the tranny from my 94 s-10 pickup 2wd fit my blazer 4x4 if my tranny is junk?

what is the engine in both vehicles?

4.3 v6 in both

will get back with you tommorow

The chevy blazer and s-10 transmission for those years are different ,
in 2000 they when to a removable bell housing.
There was actually 3 seperate changes made to the tranny you are refferring to which is the GM-460E two wheel drive and 4 wheel drive Transmission.
Hope this helps

did you release the question or did we lose our connection?

im sorry i dint realize i released the question i had some beers last night my local tranny shop said its probaly the seal between the tranny and t-case so im gonna drop it there on Monday to see

If that is the case then you would have had a loss of fluids.
I understand the release, I just wanted get you the best information that I could yesturday because tonight I will be drinking a few beers myself.
So let me know how it goes maybe you just have some clogged up lines that can be cleared out, or a filter and fluid change

the guy at the shop says he sees it all the time i guess theres an inner and outer gasket on the blazer either way i trust him (hes my neighbors brother in law) and hes gonna check it out for free

That's as cool as it gets you cannot beat that deal.

do you mind if i release you and see if i can get a second opinion?

no that is your option I fyou are not satisfied with the answer then you are free to release the question

true i guess ill just end the question and wait to hear from the shop

Ok,You know it is still possible that the problem is not major It may also be that the fluid in clogged and not getting to the pump to cool the tranny dow and a matter of a filter and a fluid change.

yup i got the filter gasket and fluid and the flush is going to be done with the trouble shooting

that sounds good

i just hope it is good

Let me know when it is going under the knife.

1999 Chev Blazer Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction Happens sometimes No pattern

My 1999 S-10 Blazer switches to 4WD randomly. I was turning a corner when I saw the 2wd/4hi/4low switch on it's own to 4 hi and tried to switch to 4 low. I stopped the Truck, put it in park and tried to switch it back to 2wd but wouldn't. Had to put it in 4 low first then 4 hi then 2wd. Does it from time to time. Any ideas?

Hi;
Is it a run on the fly, Or manual?

Its shift of the fly. There are buttons on the dash to select 2wd, 4hi, 4lo. It happened again today. I'm going down the road doing about 60 mph and the truck shift into 4hi and the 4lo light is blinking. I had to pull over, put it in Park to select 4lo then 4hi and then 2wd. What could be cause? Is there a way to disable the system temporarily until I can get it fixed? (pull a fuse or disconnect switch?)

Hi;
This systems are vacuum controlled. You have a vaccum leak. Most likely is right at the front differetial. Check the lines and make sure that one is not loose. Les.

Just called the dealer and ask how much to fix the vacuum leak for the 4wd system. The Mech said there isn't a vacuum on a 1999 and its probably a controller or another piece. Is there a way to disengage the system temporarily?

hi;
You would have to remove the controller and manually move the lever. Les.

1999 Chev Blazer Heating / Cooling System   

I normally drive my right hand drive Chevy Blazer LT 1999 which I bought new from a dealer in England. It has been a great vehicle to date. About 2 months ago, when I was driving a distance of 150 miles on a warm day, I had the air conditioning on as usual, temp dial below 19, fresh air in and fan on a quarter setting and windows closed of course. I got a bit chilled and noticed that white particles were coming out of the vents. I thought this must be frozen carbon dioxide so increased the temp to 19/20 when a great puff of brown coloured came out of the vents and it smelt putrid. I opened the windows and turned off the aircon and shut the vents. A bit further on I decided to put the air con back on with the temp guage below 19 and it was OK for a bit when the white stuff came out again. Shut the aircon off and the brown stuff kept coming out. It's been doing this on and off since then and don't know what to do. Any answers please?

Hello, When weather conditions are humid and the a/c is set to fresh air instead of recirculated air, one will see white particles (ice) and fog delivered out the a/c outlet vents.

The system cannot effectively dehumidify the air. Condensate must drain from the HVAC case without restriction or the problem will be compounded.

The smell is caused by micro-bial growth on the cooling fins of the evaporator core. This can be made worse if debris builds up in the evaporator case and decays.

Steps to correct the condition would include ensuring the case moisture drain is not obstructed.

There are products available at auto parts suppliers that can be sprayed into the evaporator case to neutralize the micro-bial growth on the evap core.

Once the treatment is complete (follow the product directions) you will find less trouble when leaving the system on recirculating air mode.

Worst case correction can call for removing the evaporator core for cleaning of the core it self and the case it mounts in. In most cases the treatment spray will produce satisfactory results without disassembly of the vehicle.

Roger

1999 Chev Blazer Heating / Cooling System   

Having had a reply to my question of 24 September from Roger we followed up his advice through a local air con specialist garage. It turned out in the end that the heater core had sprung a leak and this was the cause of the sickly sweet smell of anti-freeze -yuk.

The heater core has now been replaced. End of one problem but the start of another. Whereas originally the heater worked very efficiently, and produced lots of very hot air, it now produces an inadeqate supply. Set at 21 degrees and the air temperature in the car eventually reaches 18. Set at 27 and it reaches 22. At Auto Fan, hotest temperature setting and Auto Circulation dial (at which air con also switches in) the temperature eventually gets to 23 degrees.

The garage has re-bled the system, drained it all down and refilled it again, but all to no avail. They have checked water temperatures - after running the car for a while the cooling system operates at 75/80 and the heater hoses are at 65/70 degrees. They have ordered a new thermostat to see whether that might just improve things a bit.

The only two giveaways might be :-

(a) whilst being a genuine numbered part for a Blazer the new heater core was a slightly different shape to the original one

(b) the heating system used to work silently, but now on switch on and occasionally when rotating the air direction knobs you can sometimes hear a slight clunk as the flaps switch open/shut. Having said this all the knobs work properly in terms of directing the air to where it should go.

Thats it. Any ideas or solutions please.

This problem sounds like an installation issue. If I had installed the heater core, I would go back and look at the foam sealing around the edges of the heater core. If air is bypassing the heater core, you will not get the required heat.

The temperatures you quoted sound a bit low...the thermostat may help that. If both heater hoses are about the same temperature and you have good circulation, the heater core is not removing the heat...air bypassing, etc.

Hope this helps.
Sterlingfixer

1999 Chev Blazer Heating / Cooling System   

The heating system works, however it doesn't get very hot, lukewarm is the best way to describe the heat coming out, the coolant system is full, also it will only blow out of the vents, not the defroster or the floor vent no matter what position you put the switch

Hello, What temperature does your guage indicate the engine runs at? Is the coolant full?

Look carefully under the hood for a vacuum leak. This may be the cause of the air mode delivery trouble. Look at the small hard plastic tubing often used for the cruise control servo supply and the vacuum reservoir lines. It becomes brittle and may have broken somewhere along it's route. You can splice it with rubber vacuum tubing.

How long does it take the engine to show to be fully warmed up on the temp guage? If quite awhile the thermostat may be stuck open or broken.

Do both heater hoses feel hot to the touch, or is one hot and the other just warm?

Please advise,

Roger

Okay, the temp is about 200 , the top and bottom radiator hoses are hot, it takes quite some time to get to the temp

I'd recommend replacing the engine thermostat.

The heater hoses (not the radiator hoses) will tell us how well the coolant is circulating through the heater core. Both should be hot.

Roger

1999 Chev Blazer Heating / Cooling System   

Having had a new heater core fitted, [which had fewer fins than the original!], I found the amount of heat flowing into the car was very much reduced. In reply to a question about this you had suggested going back and checking the foam sealing around the edges of the heater core. The garage has supposedly done this, to no avail. So during the winter we endured less heat - brrrrrr.

Now it's summer and I find that the air con on cold is not actually producing any thing like the cold air it used to. Even, that is, if the control settings are set at re-circulating, auto for fan speed, blue for cold and auto for directional control [face only]. It feels more like ambient air, and it is warm, nay hot, in the footwell. Yet the compressor is working at full blast, and under the hood the cold pipe is very cold and the hot pipe is very hot and there is a goodly drip of water out of the drain pipe.

Please, do you have any ideas about what is wrong and how to fix it?

This may be a problem with the blend air actuator. This is basicly a door that directs airflow when you adjust the temperature controls. If your temp control is operated with a round button, make sure the plastic is not broken inside which can limit travel.

With all Accesories Off (as little noise as possible) turn the button from hot to cold. Do you hear the blend air door moving? With the engine running, how much can you get the temperature to change?

Hi, thanks for your suggestions.

Turned the temperature switch from hot to cold but did not hear any clicks to indicate that the blend door was moving. Did here clicks, however, if I changed the air directional switch which appears to be working properly.

Ran the engine at tickover for at least 15 minutes with the fan set at a highish speed, temperature control on blue and air direction set on face/footwell and air con button switched on. From a starting temperature inside the car of 24C, measured on a mini/max thermometer, the air temperature at the face vent fell to 20C. Air coming out of the vents is certainly not as cold as it was originally.

Lifted the hood to find that the cold pipe was completely frosted.

Where do I go from here?

Tony Bagg

Okay, does the airflow get hot if you select hot? I'm curious if the temp door is non-functional (as in left unhooked during repair, etc) or inefficient (restriction, etc).

The A/C performance will suffer when it ices, and damage can be done to the evaporator. Have you had the pressures checked at anytime during the repair?

The answer to your first question about 'get hot if you select hot' is NO - it only gets warm. This goes back to the first problem I identified when the new heater core was fitted. It does not get as hot as it used to, only mildly warm. Originally you could warm your hands on the face level vents. To now get any heat in the car, and then it only warms up very slowly, you have to put the fan on auto, temperature at max and directional control on auto.

About the second question, yes, the presures have recently been re-checked. Because I had another job done on the car recently, (new cylinder head gaskets fitted by an American car specialist who unfortunately does not have air con equipment) I took the car back to 'my air con specialist' and asked them to re-gas the system. But still the problems persist.

HELP!

Okay, the blend air door will need to be inpspected at this point. I'm not sure why the shop overlooked this.

I assume both hoses to the heater core hoses get hot when you can't get hot air into the cabin... blend air door or its controls.

Thanks for your help, so far.

Car goes to garage on Monday.

Watch this space.

Hi Douglas,

Car back from garage and now everything all OK.

And what was the problem? Yes, you guessed it, that's right, the blend air door was jamming.

Apparently, when they tightened up the casing it twisted slightly. Then, when they switched on, the blend air door moved but got stuck against the casing.

Solution - trimmed 2mm off the blend air door so that it can move freely.

Hey presto, the systems back in full working order. Comfort at last. Cold today, but its warm in the car. Tomorrow is supposed to be a hot day so I'm looking forward to really cool air.

I'd like to thank you very much indeed for all your help as I am convinced that the problem would never have been solved without it. Well done.

Tony Bagg

Interesting, I was just thinking about your question and your reply was already posted.

It is easy to make a mistake during installation, it happens to the best, I hope their mistake was not on your wallet.

Give me an update on A/C peformance.

Now 3 weeks post repair to air con and I am enjoying a fully functioning system again. As to my pocket I did pay, as requested by them, 3/10 of the cost. Better to stay on good terms as I might need their services again one day.

Thanks again for your help and advice. It is good to know about the service you offer at ALL PARTS so I have passed on to several friends and garages details of your web sight so that they, (and you) might benefit too.

Tony

1998 Chev Blazer Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always

I'm trying to get all the bugs out of my car. Where do I find the info on what type of bulbs are located inside inside the heating/cooling controller? If I could find that out then I see how to solder them in. Any suggestions out there?

Yes all you have to do is pull one of the bulbs out and there will be a number written on it or it will be a standard bulb you can find at any auto parts store or dealership
They are all 12 volts you need to match up the size
I hope this helps

1998 Chev Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems   

i cant get my keyless remote to program. bought it new from dealer.went by vin. 15732805 kobut1bt. system goes into program mode,unlock button down key on off on off release unlock ,locks cycle hold down lock unlock on remote but nothing happens, replaced recevier still no go. possible bad bcm?

Hi, How long are you holding down the remote lock and unlock buttons at the same time when the process calls for that step?

Did you mean to say you replaced the remote transmitter or the receiver? Battery ok on the transmitter remote?

Roger

its a new transmitter and a new reciver. i held the buttons down for 30 seconds or more. i had the dealer check the remote and they said it was working. i put a new battery in also.

When in the process it comes time to hold the Lock/Unlock buttons both down to program the receiver hold down either the Lock or the Unlock button on the remote but not both.

Will this program your remote?

Roger

NO IT STILL DIDN'T PROGRAM. I don't know if it matters but the drivers door has been replaced

Replacement of the door should not factor. I'll try a different data base later today for a new perspective.

Roger

I received the programming process from the Mitchell 1 Auto Repair Data Base and it is exactly as you describe.

Have you tried having someone else program the remote from a position standing outside the vehicle?

It may take a trip to the dealer and the use of a GM Tech II Scanner to program the remote. If it won't program that way the problem can be diagnosed with the Tech II.

Roger

i was at the dealer and the technician tried to program it with the tech 11 firsthe had no luck, it did the same thing he told me the reciver was bad so i orderd one and replaced it. he tried again with the tech 11 and still no luck. then he told me the bcm must be bad.but i think he was just guessing , and this is getting kinda expensive for that.

Someone at that dealer must not be trained well on the Tech II. Call the shop foreman for his input.

Used BCMs are available to control cost if you wish to go that way.

Consider calling another dealership and see if they have an experienced technician you can rely on.

I'm disappointed that a technician asked for a new receiver without diagnosing the BCM is bad first. That Tech II is only as good as the operator using it.

Roger

ok thank you

Ready to close this question? Please click on OK to finish up. If not, please advise,

Roger

1998 Chev Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems   

entire instrument cluster is erratic. lights flash, speedo and gas guage flip wildly back and forth and odometer milage bounces all over the place.

Hello,

Inspect the electrical connector to the instrument cluster as well as grounds.

Is the problem constant? Are there any other problems other than erratic cluster operation?

Sometimes a replacement cluster is required.

I received an email saying your replied but the reply does not show. Please post reply again.

The problem is almost constant. It will straighten up for 5-10 second then go crazy again. I never know how fast I'm going or how much gas I have. Now the "Check gages" light stays on after the car is shut off. Where is the grounds located I should check. Thanks

1997 Chev Blazer All Part Groups Slipping When driving When warm 

transmission slips when hot, will not change out of first gear

Check your fluid level first, with the engine running. It should be between the add and full marks with the engine running in park. If it low, fill to the marks. If it is OK, check for burnt color or smell to the fluid. If burnt, you will need to replace or rebuild the transmission.
Dale

1997 Chev Blazer Drive Train / Driveline  When repairing 

Is it better to flush or change the transmission fluid, should the filter be changed, what else needs to be checked?

A flush changes ALL the fluid, in trans, torque converter, lines and cooler.
It also cleans the filter somewhat, but not entirely.
A change, usually means droppong the pan, inspecting for debris, replacing the filter and about 4-5 litres of fluid, which is aprox 1/3 of the total fluid.The fluid in the cooler, lines, and the converter is not drained when the trans oil pan removed.
So my answer to your question is the flush is better, but if it were mine, I would do both...

How can you do a flush by yourself, isn't special equipment needed?

Yes special equip required, as most of us have in our shop.If you are going to drop the pan and filter, remove the flywheel/ torque converter inspection cover.Some converters have a small drain plug.The converter holds quite a lot of oil.

My transmission whirs and gets louder when I accelerate do you think flushing the transmission will get rid of this, which do you recommend or do I need to do something else?

The whir could be a bad front pump.A flush will not hurt, unsure if it will help.A trans Conditioner might help, as it softens hardened seals.

What would this front pump be called, how do I know what it is. Are you talking about the catalytic converter?

The catalytic converter is part of the exhaust. The pump is inside the transmission.

When was the last fluid change?

I am doing that this week, it has been toooo long. It sounds like a whine when I accelerate.

1997 Chev Blazer Drive Train / Driveline   

I'm having trouble with the 4X4 Not working. When I hit the switch to 4Hi it stay on but it will not ingage to the 4X4.

Check the front axle actuator. That and wiring are the two greatest causes of failure.

What happens if you select 4 Low?

What happens if you select 4 Low?" It's the same thing the light stay on and not in gage

can it be the Selector switch. Can you till me were the two wiring is under the trans.

On the front axle pumpkin area and the transfer case shift motor/actuator.

It can be the selector switch, but not usually IF the lights function normally.

1997 Chev Blazer All Part Groups   

the key/ignition switch to start the engine in the 1997 blazer is broken with the key not springing back when released. Can you assist with schematic or description of what spring back mechanism needs to be replaced. thank you, Don

The best thing to do with an ignition switch is replace it. The are not usually expensive and with the help of a Chilton manual for that particular vehicle are not that hard to replace.

Thanks,,, we have been reviewing this but it appears the spring which turns the key back from the contact position to start may not be in the ignition switch.

Don
You are correct, there is a spring in the column that returns the key to the 'on' position, after starting.
Only do this if you are comfortable taking the column apart!
First disconnect the battery.
Steering wheel comes off next.
The spring is on the left hand side of column, in a straight line from the key lock assy.The lock tumbler twists a shaft, which goes through the column to the left side.On the left side the shaft terminates in a small 1/2 diameter gear.It enguages another ''rack' type gear which is about 2 1/2 inches long .At the lower end of that rack is a thin rod about 10 inches long that travels down the column and actuates the ignition switch which is about 1/2 ways down the column on the top.
Once you remove the steering wheel,the steering wheel lock plate, the turn signal switch has to be removed (or partially removed, out of the way)And possibly a plastic panel on lh side.
With all this out, if you actuate the key, back and forth, you will see how the rod and the gears work, in unison.The spring is located to the left of the two gears.It has 1 long and one short arm and is held in place by a single screw.Either a 9/32 head or a torx.Remove/replace spring (ensure no broken pieces left behind!)Might be just bent.
Test operation before reassembly. A few drops of lithium or white grease on the gear would be nice!
Sound fun? The first GM column I dismantled, ended in the trash can! Since then I have sucessfully operated on dozens in the 30 years since!
If the project goes to a shop, I am guessing the shop time should be about 1 1/2 hours!
Bruce

Thanks, this sounds like fun alright. We'll see how this goes...

Don

1996 Chev Blazer Drive Train / Driveline  When driving When warm 

my OBII code reader comes up with P1870 What does it mean, and tranny shifts hard into second gear when hot. Check engine light goes out when driving in city. Will not come back on until driven at highway speeds for 5 miles. What can be done, and what could this problem be. When trans is cool, it works normal Thanks for any help

Hello, OBDII Code P1870 refers to a transmission component called the torque converter clutch (TCC). Your problem occurs after highway speeds for approx. 5 miles because that is when the TCC is applied/engaged. Most cases around 48mph the TCC gets a signal from a electric solenoid controlled by your computer. Provided the trans. is in 3rd or 4th gear, the solenoid opens a valve to allow hydraulic pressure to engage the clutch thereby minimizing slip in the clutch packs and improving gas mileage.

Many Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) exsist from GM concerning P1870 issues due to the wide variety of engine/trans. options/combination choices offered.

You need a good transmission shop that has access to CURRENT service info. They'll help you with a diagnosis and a repair estimate that I expect could run $400-$600 to fix depending on labor rates and parts costs in your area.

Your computer is most likely modifying the shift pattern to minimize slip and further wear.

You need a professional, here. Find a reputable shop and repair warranty is everything at today's prices.

Roger

1996 Chev Blazer Fuel System Won't Start  

Last night I was driving down the road, 40 mph and the 1996 Blazer just cut out and died. Treid to start it plenty of turnover power. Had it towed to my house. I notice that I do not have the fuel pump priming noise when I put the key in the on position. Could it be a power problem somewhere? How do I test it? I found what I think is the fuel pump lead, a red wire with a plastic cover on the driverside fender. I put 12 volts positive to this lead and it looked like it was shorting out. Black marks left on the battery top terminal. Any ideas?

it is very common for the fuel pump to just die on these vehicles. That is what your problem sounds like. It is relatively easy to replace the fuel pump (which is in the tank)if you have any mechanical skills. otherwise I recommend having the truck towed to a shop that you trust and having the repair done there.. If you need any further assistance you con contact me at [redacted] upon acceptance of this response. Good Luck

Walt Boyer
ASE Master Tech

I can only help you further once you have accepted this answer

1996 Chev Blazer All Part Groups Making Noise When idling 

1996 Chevy Blazer C-Series 4X4... Yesterday I noticed when I pulled into my driveway and the truck was idling that a loud whirring noise was coming from the back of the truck. You can hear this noise from the driver side rear wheel well and sounds like an overactive belt (closes noise simalitarity) and comes to a hault (loud whir and then a click then stops) when the truck is turned off. Noise doesn't get any louder during aceleration or deaceleration, but it is loud enough to hear it inside the truck and outside the truck any ideas?

Your fuel pump is failing.Get a pressure test done to verify this, and get it replaced before it leaves you stranded somewhere.

1996 Chev Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Sun roof, window, blower don't work and flashing anti and brake lights blink. This comes and goes. Thought I could reproduce when fan and heater/air were left on when car turned off. When the car was started next time the anti lock and brake lights would flash and then the anti lock would remain on with on fan sun roof window power. Also the temp milaged over head would light up but readings would have --- Fuses seem to be fine.

Electrical problems dont usually trip a problem code unless its the ECM itself.The flashing light indicates a code has been set.Turn the key to the on position and watch the light and count the nuber of blinks.For example:blink..pause..blink blink blink...pause... blink...pause...blink blink blink...pause...blink...pause...blink blink blink...pause...solid light.In a situation like this it would indicate a code 13.Count the number of flashes you are getting and write them down.Once you have them we can try to work out from there.

1996 Chev Blazer Engine   

While driving at 50-60mph, the rpm fluctuates to 300 from 200 then quickly returns to 200, Is this a transmission problem? I do not hear shifting or feel it.When idling everything is very smooth and at slower speeds everything is fine. I have noticed a small hesitation when in reverse

There is a 100 rpm fluctuation?

This may be the torque converter clutch locking and unlocking. Try pressing the brake slighty (this will unlock the clutch). See if you can duplicate the reaction by doing this.

Yes but it does this over and over again and makes me feel out of control? Of course I am a female driver I will try your suggestion

Okay, get back to me.

I meant 2000 to 3000 a senior moment I guess. Thanks for helping me figure this out.

Okay, let me know what you find.

1996 Chev Blazer Ignition System   

Recent history:

Thermostat went bad
overheated
replaced thermostat
added water to make up from lost coolant during overheat

Current Problem:

When cool, engine will start and run fine for several minutes until it heats up(I'm asuuming this problem is initiated by heat). Then ignition goes dead. No fire from coil at all. Wait several minutes....engine ignition is back and engine will fire up. repeat.

Hi, You are describing the classic behavior of a failing crankshaft position sensor.

Roger

can I have your phone number to continue? It will save a lot of typing (these fingersw don't work so well on little keys!)

All Parts policy is that neither a provider's phone number nor email address is to be posted on the site. I abide by this policy or my phone would never stop ringing. Please understand I do not wish to be rude. Our site is seen from all over the globe and all of it's time zones. I'm sorry for having to decline.

Does your Blazer have the 2.2L engine or the 4.3L? 2WD or 4WD?

I'll do my best to help you,

Roger

I'm not sure where this sensor is. Would it cut ignition TO the coil when it goes bad?

MORE INFO on the problem:
I pulled the distributor end of the coil wire right after the engine shut down and put in a spark plug in that end of the wire. Then, I turned the engine over ......no fire. This tells me I have no ignition coming from the coil. I then replaced the coil. Same problem.

I understand that policy Roger. Thanks for helping me. It is a 4.3, 4WD. See my post about MORE INFO I sent just now.

The crankshaft sensor feedback signal is critical to both spark and fuel. If the signal quits the computer does not "know" the engine is turning over or where #1 cylinder is in rotaion toward top dead center. It stops triggering the ignition spark and stops pulsing the fuel injectors.

Roger

Thanks. Where is the sensor physically located?

6:00 O'Clock straight up from the bottom of the crankshaft pulley. The steering linkage shield is in the way and will need to come off to see the connector to the sensor and the mounting bolt.

If you can get the engine to quit as you described and spray the sensor with brake cleaner to cool it, the engine will restart almost every time. Heat is the killer here.

Roger

Awesome. Thanks Roger. We'll give it a try.

I'll be here.

Roger

Have I answered your question? If yes, please click on OK to finish up. If not, please advise.

Roger

1996 Chev Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Tailgate can not be opened. When attempt to unlock, all doors do unlock, but tailgate remains locked. Using the key has no effect. There is a sound (in tailgate) indicating the solenoid is operating. Appears the linkage may be loose or broken. But I can not get to the insides with the tailgate locked. Now what???

If you have the rear window that opens, this may offer access so you can spray the linkage, then actuate the lock repeatedly trying to get it to release so you can open the hatch and make a permanent repair-- but first make sure the window is fully closed to allow lock release. You may also have luck spraying through the exterior lock cylinder (this interlocks directly with the locking mechanism), then actuating.

The window is locked closed. Tried the spry thru lock, does not seem to work

Hello,

I've re-opened this question at the customer's request.

Mark,
Site Admin.

Can you open the window (locked you can, fixed you cannot)? This may allow access with lock tools.

Let me know more about your model, 2/4 door etc so I can look through service information more effeciently.

4dr, model LS, rear window opens up, but is locked closed. Tried spray lub-no luck. I suspect I need to remove the tailgate panel but how do you do that when it's locked closed.

Yeah, tough to remove the panel as the first step is to open the tailgate. I have removed these (similar anyways) with door still closed, but you can't always be successful without damaging the panel. It don't appear you can access anything from the center (where the spare tire may be mounted), not many options. The only other options I see available are to drill out the lock cylinder (must be done carefully) or call a locksmith.

1996 Chev Blazer Drive Train / Driveline   

I destroyed the rear end on the blazer, cost me $900 to replace it. Once I got that fixed ,the truck will not go over 30 miles an hour. The push button lights for the 4 wd will not work, so I'm think it may be stuck in low lock?

Either the 'new' rear has substantially higher gear ratio than the origional, or as you surmised, it is stuck in low lock.Check the linkage adjustment of the transfercase or have the shop who did work do it. Should be covered under warranty.

Ok, well I dunno much about it, don't even know where my transfer case is, but I'll have it checked on as soon as I can and get back to you. Thank you

Also, I called the mechanic that replaced my rear end and he's pretty sure that the transmission is shot because he said that he could smell a burnt smell and the fluid looked dark. I don't agee tho, just because of the problematic issues these trucks have. It seems to shift gears fine, rev, nuetral both Drives, 2nd and 1st. In regular driving it moves just fine, just does not seem to climb in the gears, 30 mph is the fastest I can go, and the engine is reving high as it can be.

Might be trans, get 2nd opinion at another shop.

Yeah, that's what I'll do then. Just wish I knew whether to invest more money into it, or just junk it or part it out. I paid $2500 for it , and it cost me $900 for the rearend. Can't help but think it's just something simple, all I want to do is get the 2wd back working right.

1995 Chev Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems   

hi. my power seat on the driver side just all the sudden stopped working...checked all the breakers and that is not a problem because everthing else linked to that breaker works....is this a easy fix?? not much money here so really would like to fix it on my own with your help...p.s. i am a women.. and don't know much about vehicles.

Well this might be an easy fix .. sorta depends on what you call easy. First step is to check for voltage at the connection to the seat motor. If you have voltage then the seat motor has failed. It might be easier to replace the seat with one from a scrap yard or you might be able to remove the motor and have the motor rebuilt. First start with the voltage check.. Let me know what you find (should be around 12 volts DC) and we can go from there. AL

well there is no voltage coming to the seat motor at all. i had my neighbor check it..so the motor might not be shot right?? Where do I go next?? let me know.

Ok.. no voltage to the seat motor we next want to follow the wires back to the switches that control the seat. IF we dont have voltage there.. then we have to follow the voltage back into the wiring harness .. OR we can just run an external hot wire from the fuse panel to the switch and eliminate the original power supply wire. I strongly recommend adding a 15 amp fuse if you replace the original wire. Let me know if I can be more help. AL

o.k. i will follow that stuff back and i will let you know tomorrow what i find if anything....talk to ya tomorrow.

great. will look for your response

1995 Chev Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems Failing Happens always Always

My turn signals have quit working in my 95 blazer. I have changed the fuse and they still do not work. My flashers work though. Any suggestions?

Do the in dash lights iluminate when you select the turn signal?

It sounds like the multifunction (turn signal) switch may be bad.

1995 Chev Blazer Ignition System   

Replaced the positivie terminal cable Ran great for about a week . Now key turns, radio plays, turnsignals work, heater works, a.c. works etc. But nothing happens with the starter. Removed starter and had auto zone check starter three times. All three times it checked good. NOW WHAT

Hello, It takes 175 amps for a starter to operate. Most anything else requires so little amps to operate a poor connection at the battery will still deliver power needed to run the systems you listed.

Take the battery cables loose (negative first). If the positive cable has two seperate cables stacked and connected to the battery... seperate the cables and remove any spacers within the cable terminal ends. The cable you replaced should be okay, but what about the other one?

The second cable end has a lead plug that can be pried out of the end terminal rubber protector. Do you find corrosion under the spacer/plug?

If the cables terminal ends are clean and allow tightening we may have to check starter solenoid wiring from the ignition switch.

Did you try to start the engine with the transmission in Neutral?

Roger

How are you doing with this one? Please advise.

Thanks,

Roger

1994 Chev Blazer Ignition System   

For about a month SOMETIMES when I try to turn the ignition off it is stuck and I have to turn it to start then it will turn off. Now it will not start. The ignition turns but it won't start. Can I apray WD-40 in it, do I need a coil or wires or a module or something else?

You may have a bad lock cylinder or ignition switch.

Does the normal array of dash lights turn on when you initially turn on the key?

Does the starter crank the engine when you attempt to start the vehicle now?

WD-40 is fine to try.

The first time it happened the dash lights did not come on until after I shifted into drive, then when I tried to turn off the vehicle the key would not turn. Finally I turned it forward toward start position and then it would turn off. This has happened about every other time I crank it for a couple of weeks. Today when I tried to crank it, I could hear the fuel pump, the dash lights would come on and the radio, but the engine wouldn't crank. After several tried it finally did crank so I could get home, now that I'm home it won't crank again. Thank you for your help! I'm a 40 yr old female and know a very little about vehicles. I need to know if this is something I can fix or if I need to take it to a shop. I like to know what's wrong before I take it to a shop so I don't get taken to the cleaners, he he.

1993 Chev Blazer Drive Train / Driveline   Always

it won't go into 4 hi (i have changed the vaccum switch)

Hello, To clarify..will the transmission shift to third gear and the torque converter clutch engage all right with the shift lever in Drive?

What happens when you then move the shift lever to Overdrive? Does the transmission shift to fourth gear with no torque converter engagement or is there simply no change...you are still in third gear?

Have you checked your brake switch adjustment to ensure the torque converter clutch is not receiving a "disengage signal" as would occur when the brakes are applied?

I'll try to help,

Roger

I use to be able to put it in 4 high on the fly . now it will not , I have power to the switch on the dash until i put in drive . would the neutral safety switch have anything to do with it.

Man, I was thinking transmission gears! You are talking about 4WD HI aren't you?

Let me get on track and I'll be back soon.

Thanks,

Roger

Okay,
Troubleshooting starts by checking for a blown fuse. Check for a faulty transfer case switch. Faulty wiring. Transfer case linkage improperly adjusted, and finally, internal transfer case mechanical problem.

TRANSFER CASE LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT:

Place shift lever in 4H position. Raise vehicle and remove linkage from shift lever. Move shift lever on transfer case fully forward. Adjust shift linkage with swivel to align with shift lever. Reattach linkage and lower vehicle.

4WD WILL NOT ENGAGE:

1. Test power to transfer case switch. With ignition "ON", connect test light to ground and backprobe Brown wire terminal at transfer case switch connector. Test light should light. If so, proceed to next step. If not, inspect 25-amp 4WD fuse in fuse block. If fuse is okay, attach test light to ground and backprobe Pink/White terminal at convenience center. Test light should light. If so, repair open in Brown wire between convenience center and transfer case switch. If not, repair open in Pink/White wire between convenience center and 4WD fuse in fuse block.

2. Test transfer case switch. With transfer case shift selector in 4WD position and ignition "ON", attach test light to ground and backprobe Light Blue wire terminal at transfer case switch. Test light should light. If so, proceed to next step. If not, replace transfer case switch.

NOTE! Remainder of transfer case electronic testing and diagnosis is performed with transfer case gear selector in 4WD position and ignition "ON".

3. Test front axle solenoid power circuit. Attach test light to ground and backprobe Light Blue wire terminal of disconnected front axle solenoid. Test light should light. If so, proceed to next step. If not, repair open in Light Blue wire between front axle solenoid and transfer case switch.

One more step to send you in a short while.

Roger

NOTE! Remainder of transfer case electronic testing and diagnosis is performed with transfer case gear selector in 4WD position and ignition "ON".

3. See previous message sent.

4. Test front axle solenoid. Attach test light between Light Blue wire terminal and Black wire terminal of connected front axle solenoid. If test light lights, replace front axle solenoid and proceed to next step. If test light does not light, repair open in Black wire between front axle solenoid and ground.. If no opens in circuit are found, replace transfer case relay.

Your turn,

Roger

hey roger rich here i will check solenoid as soon as possible and get back to you. thanks

Good, I'll wait to hear from you.

Roger

How are things going here?

Please update,

Roger

1993 Chev Blazer Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

Rubbing noise coming from the right wheel area. My son has checked the wheel barrens, tires and brakes and all are ok. What could be causing the rubbing sound?

I'm just a Mom what do I know? :>)

What he should probably try is jacking the vehicle up, SAFELY SUPPORTING IT ON JACKSTANDS (a jack is never safe), and spinning the tire by hand to help isolate the noise.

BTW- 2 or 4 wheel drive? Does it make any difference how fast he is going, turning, braking, accelerating, etc etc for the sound to appear OR change in intensity.

Thanks for your help. It's 4 wheel drive and 35 mph or less it's loader. only when he coast. it stops making the sound when the automatic transmission down shifts but as soon as the shift is complete it starts again. It sounds like a roaring or rubbing sounds. He has already jacked it up and turned the wheel by hand and it does not make any noise. He has already checked the wheel berrings but wondered if it might be the inner berrings?

Sorry for the delay, I've been sick.

A roaring noise is almost always the result of a failing bearing. It could be the wheel bearing or a bearing in the front drive train.

1993 Chev Blazer Fuel System   

The vehicle would not start, towed home and it started after a couple days. Left me stranded again after a week. Could not hear the fuel pump running so dropped the tank. Jumped the pump and it runs. checked the circuit to the pump and had no elec. going to the pump. Figure it must be a control module if I could only figure where it is located. electrical items (gauges) volt meter, temperature gauges all read high. Any guidance would be appreciated.

check fuel pump relay

1993 Chev Blazer Ignition System   

i am running 6 cyl 240 engine. myquestion will a super-charger improve gasoline mileage

Definatley not! They bring in more air and fuel.More horsepower and torque.Less economy.
Try improving the exhaust and air intake, that will give you more hp, torque and economy.

how would you goabout increasing air intake 7 exhaust

K&N offers cold air intakes that are less restrictive and mfg such as Magnaflow and Flowmaster offer less restrictive exhaust with free flowing mufflers and mandrel bent tubing.

1993 Chev Blazer Drive Train / Driveline   

Vibration starts at low speeds and then increases as speed increases.

308,000 miles. 5.7L V-8, have replaced two u Joints, rt. wheel seal, brakes front and rear, had front end totally rebuilt e.g. ball joints, arms, etc. Purchased this Blazer last Labor Day weekend and although it runs well I do not know much about it except that it seems to be in very clean condition. I use it to tow my boat around.

Hi, That's alot of miles. I suggest you open the differential (start with the rear) and look for excessive wear on the side bearings and spider gears inside the carrier.

Look for metal filings in the lube.

Roger

No filings found in the rear end. Not sure about the bearing play.

Are you confident this is not a tire tread seperation?

When the u-joints were replaced did the driveshaft yoke slide easily on the tranny output shaft?

Can you drive "through" the vibration by increasing speed, or does it just stay with you and get worse?

Roger

Roger,
I'm not sure on either question. I had a mechanic do the work. He did not make any comments about the yolk or tires which are Michelin.

Then the question about the yoke would have been addressed. Let's go on.

When driving the Blazer at walking speed does it seem to roll smoothly or is there a wobble noticable?

Can you drive "through" the vibration by increasing speed, or does it just stay with you and get worse?

Roger

1993 Chev Blazer Heating / Cooling System   

Engine over heats.It has been flushed,new thermostat installed,fan appears to be running.

With engine off, rad cold.Remove rad cap.Start engine with cap off. Look into rad for coolant flow...Its ok to run for a few minutes with cap off. Watch coolant flow.When thermostat opens, the coolant flow should increase noticably. If not, your new thermostat not opening. Watch for small bubbles...let me know if there are any.

1992 Chev Blazer Chassis / Suspension & Steering Making Noise When driving No pattern

While I am driving, and sometime when I make a sharp turn I hear and feel a banging noise underneath my truck. I am not sure when it's coming from. It sounds it is coming from under the drivers side. It sounds like the front of my truck is hitting the ground. It also sound like a metal pan or plate hitting something underneath. I have had alot of work done, but I still have the problem. G.

2 wheel or 4 wheel drive

4 wheel drive

CHECK ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION MOUNTS ALSO IF YOU HAVE WHAT THEY CALL BELLY PANS CHECK TO MAKE SURE THEY ARE TIGHT

O.k will get back to you to let you know if problem is fixed.

ok

Thanks.

1991 Chev Blazer Heating / Cooling System Leaking  

Heater core is bad or hose broken. Anti freeze gushing out under dash How do you remove heater core cover after removing all screws holding it on. Can't get cover off of core due to dash in way. I removed one bolt under right side of dash. Dash will not pull back enough to remove cover Still cannot get cover off due to dash in way. Have tried to remove dash before with no success.

Hello, What size Blazer is this? C/K5?

The whole case has to come out from under the dash to replace the core. Have you unbolted the entire plenum case? There are bolts holding the case that are located on both sides of the firewall. The dash does not need to come out or be pulled back.

Please advise,

Roger

I have an S10 1991 Blazer. 4.3 Engine Four wheel drive. Haynes manual says to remove mounting bolts from modular duct from under dash and remove duct. Then remove core mounting screws and remove core. Having trouble removing duct. Dash and computer in the way I have replaced computer before so I know how to do that. Almost have duct out.

Okay, I'll regroup, get some perspective research done and get back to you. I'm going to see what the Mitchell 1 Auto Repair Data base has to say.

Rogr

Have access to heater core. Removed mounting screws and hoses but core isn't comeing out. It's loose but it won't come out. Still trying to figure out what is stopping removal. Any sugestions?

Do you have the replacement core to compare how the tubes are shaped and their length? It may help to know which way to "tilt and pull" on the core to facilitate core removal.

Are the tubes made into the core, or do they bolt on with a bracket to remain in position and seal?

Back soon,

Roger

Have core out . Yep, it's bad. Now have to get new core (cost 20 bucks at parts store) and try to put it all back togeather. How do I get all the anti feeze out of the carpot? Is there any chemicals to use that would help with removal and how can I get anti freeze out of duct work. It's going to be hell of a clean up job.

"Wet vac the carpet, then shampoo it. If the coolant saturation is so bad the padding on the backside of the carpet is also soaked you may have to remove the seats as needed to take the carpet out (or pull it up/back) and replace only the jute padding. (Faster than cleaning, avoids smelly mildue)

Running the heater and defroster will dry the duct work. Perhaps you could direct compressed air down the defroster ducts from the top down to move coolant to the lower part of the plenum. I don't recommend chemicals beyond shampoo for the carpet (none for the ducts). Consider an air freshner post clean-up efforts as the ducts and carpet dry."


Roger

1991 Chev Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems  When repairing Always

Have 1991 Chev. S-10 Blazer 4.3 engine 4wd. Pulled instrument cluster back to change burnt out bulbs in panel. Changed 6 bulbs. Put back togeather, now gas gauge not working and speedometer only reads up to 37 mph. Battery charge meter, oil presure and Temp. all seem to be working OK. All gauges worked before this repair. How can I fix this?

Hello! Anyone out there?

Hello, Have you rechecked the connections to the cluster to ensure they are tight and the connectors are plugged straight in?

Are you confident that the bulbs you used to repair are the correct amp/watt rating? Have you verified the ground wire connection for the cluster is clean and tight on the body?

Have you checked all fuses for voltage on each side of the fuse when the key is ON and the park lights also ON?

Please advise,

Roger

Bulbs are the same bulbs that came out. Auto parts store looked them up on their computer. They are the correct ones for replacement. I was going to remove inst. cluster but could not due to ground wire. Looked at groung wire, it appears to be connected to steering wheel shaft with clip. It looked OK. I have some elctroic knowledge but do not understand " check voltage on each side of fuse" Checked fuse on multi meter, it was good. Some square circuit boards on back of panel were loose and were pushed back into place before putting unit back togeather.

With the fuses still in the fuse box I check for voltage on both sides of the fuse. You'll note that there is a tiny place on the top of the fuse above each blade of the fuse where you can access the fuse blade to test for voltage. Both blades need to be checked for voltage.

I would recommend that you recheck all connections and carefully inspect the position of the circuit boards that you mentioned. I hope none are cracked.

Roger

I checked voltage at fuse box. it was 11.3 volts. The circuit boards I"m reasonably sure are not cracked. They are small and have a flange around them to protect them. They are more of a module that plugs into the back of the panel, then a bare circuit board. I opened the inst. panel box slightly when I was trying to get to the back of the panel. This is when I realized I removed the wrong screws to get to the back of the panel. It was only open about three eights of an inch . Nothing fell into it to because there was nothing there to falll into it. I'm thinking maybe I pulled a connector out or someting inside the box. But that doesn't explain the speedometer only reading 37 mph when I know I was doing 60 mph. I'm thinking about removing the entire inst. panel box for close inspection. One note: there is a warning on the box that says not to open without static electricity protection. Just like when you work inside a computer. Also all the bulbs I installed are burning normaly when the inst. panel is turned on. The speedometer reads normaly under 37 mph. There is no cable that drives the speedometer. It is apparently electronic.

What I am trying to ensure is that all the fuses are indeed good. Unless the key is ON and the Park or Headlamps are ON, all of the fuses that pertain to the instrument cluster are not all "powered-up." It's the best way to check for a blown fuse.

The speedometer is electronic and gets it's signal from a speed sensor that is mounted on the transmission. It may be lazy due to a poor connection or impaired ground.

Consider taking a look at the screws that you removed on the back of the cluster. Are they all identical? Check the length, material they are made of, and if any have an insulating washer that allows mounting of the back without making contact with a printed circuit path.

It's odd to me that the gauges do not work but the speedometer wants to and the panel lights do work. I believe the fuse for the gauges to be different from the one for the panel lights, but not different from the one for the speedometer.

I agree that removing the cluster for a close look at all the connections, connectors, circuit contact condition and mount screw orientation is wise.

Roger

PLease give me some time to remove inst. box from car. I may have some more questions after I remove it and inspect it. I'll get back to you when I have this done and authorize payment It may take a few days to get done , so bear with me.

Thank you, I'll look for your reply when you can.

Roger

I got the box out and made inspection. Did not believe what I found. A connecter for the gas gauge had falllen through the box when I first removed the wrong screws. That connecter was so big I can't see how it could have falllen thru the crack . I found it at the bottom of the rectanguler hole in the dash that the box fits in. Just for your info that connecter wass the third connecter to the gas gauge. It was the one to the left of the other two. The connecters were in a trianguler pattern and the one that came out was the left one. When I receive your reply I will authorize payment . Thanks for the help! It was greatly appreciated

1991 Chev Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems   

having problems blowing fuses to e c m started with dome light staying on then tail lights did not work found pinched wires on trailer hitch pig tail taped wires now i have brake lights an tail lights but no signal also haazard lights work fuel gage not working nor radio what do i need to do can you help replaced fuses to all i,ve mentioned

I think you have separate flasher the turn signals and hazard lights. You still need to take a close look at the trailer wiring, very common to have problems with these.

The ecm fuse blowing is often caused by the fuel pump wiring, check for a shorting condition under the vehicle.

With multiple electrical problems, it's always a good idea to check connections at battery, grounds, etc.

thank you will check again will it be alright to contact you if this does not work or better yet get more help from you will check this morning

Sure.

thank you Douglas for the information was very helpfull still have weak signal lights what could that be an by the way hope your holiday was ok

good afternoon still having problems have tail lights no turn signal blew fuse changed flasher old one still good no brake lights eitherwhere did i go wrong

Check at the lights to see if you are missing power or ground (use a seperate known good ground when checking for power, and vise versa)

1989 Chev Blazer Ignition System   

I have a 89 4x4 full size blazer. It will shut off while driving, and then nothing will work but the head tail and dome lights. When you turn the key nothing will happen, no noise no lights nothing. Before it shuts down the radio will cut out and the seatbelt light and buzzer will go off, then nothing. This has happend numerous times and every time I think its fixed it dies again, about 150 yards from my driveway. I was towing it home the other day, and everything started working again, all I touched was the steering wheel and the brake. So I checked all the brake wires. Now I am in the process of dismantaling the steering column to look for chaffed wires and replace the ignition switch, 10 bucks. If any one has herd of this or can help me it would be appriciated.

You are on the right track with the ignition switch. If it's not the ignition switch it is a power problem to the ignition switch. Power starts at the battery, the battery terminals and cables as well as grounds are often overlooked.

Let me know if the switch doesn't fix the problem.

By the way, you could attempt to recreate the problem by tapping/wiggling the ignition switch. If you could recreate the power loss you'd confirm the problem.

1987 Chev Blazer Engine   

I own a 1987 Chevy Blazer(Full-Size) 5.7L 350 w/ 700r4 transmission. My problem is that it won't engage 2nd gear. Sometimes it will kick in and most times it won't. The Drive, Park, and Reverse work fine but once on the road, it just screams in 1st. I'm guessing its needing a transmission overhaul. Help please~ much appreciated:-)

trans does need rebuild or replaced

Hello, These problems are very difficult to pinpoint online. I can't see a pressure gauge reading or suggest testing you can do without diagnostic tools and a lift.

Have you tried putting the trans in first gear and manually shifting the lever to second? If this works it could be a good way to get the vehicle to a shop without a tow bill.

How would you like to proceed?

Roger

Hello, Please update this question. I need to know how to help you.

Thanks,

Roger

1984 Chev Blazer Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

I had the front rotors and pads changed. Blazer ran smooth as silk. 10000 miles later, I had rotation and balance done at Discount Tire. The tech did not use a torque stick to put on the front wheels. I left and got a mile down the road and the front end started jumping like crazy. I loosened the lug nuts and re-torqued them with a torque wrench to 90 ft/lbs. Still shakes. Could the tech have crushed the wheel bearings? Shawn

Hi Shawn,
If the truck shakes only when touching the brakes, your rotor is warped.

If it shakes below 20MPH, you have a bad tire, probably moved from the rear to the front.

If it shakes at 30-40 mph, then again around 60-70, you have the symptoms of a poorly balanced tire/tires.

It is impossible to crush the wheel bearing by tightening the wheel.

The shakes occur at 55-80 mph. NOt when braking. When I had them replaced it was due to them jumping up and down when I had to brake. It shakes like mad going down the interstate. So maybe they gundecked the balance of the tires...

Take it back, telling about the ride being worse. They should do a rebalance for you. Then if it is not right, they are either using the wrong techniques, or have a faulty machine. Use a better tire shop if this is the case.

Thanks Sterling!

I appreciate your help.

I think you will soon be rolling down the silken road again!

1974 Chev Blazer All Part Groups  When repairing 

problem with adjustment to put new powersteering belt on. 350 with ac. belt is 15420 duralast. I loosened the adjustment panel. What else should I do?

What is the problem you are experiencing?

Also, are you sure you have the right belt? Were you able to compare it to the last belt to make sure? Is there any doubt about belt routing? Are you trying to put the belt on one of the biggest pulleys last?

same belt....15420 duralast belt..can't get the powersteering to adjust enough to put on the new belt.

Okay, you can't get the belt on,,, but if it was on in this position would it be okay OR way to tight?

If I could adjust about 1/4 inch it would go on and be ok

It may be easiest to remove the pump and install it with the belt on. The aftermarket belt may be a little off causing your problem. From memory, I'd guess the pumps pulleys is not easily removable (if it was this would simplify installation).

I got the job done. I put part of the belt over the powersteering pully and used a wrench to turn the pully and the belt went on. Thanks for your suggestions anyway.