Chev Camaro

2001 Chev Camaro Engine Chugging Happens sometimes No pattern

The Camaro chuggs/chokes at any given time but seems to do it more within a minute of start (not directly afterwards). It also happens mainly under high electrical or performance loads. I have changed oil and fuel/air filters. I am getting a new high output alternator (due to stock alt failure) but im wondering if the coil wire (like u said to the 1997) is to blame. I have had to change on coil before on the engine but i havent looked at them since. Any ideas?

Is the alternator not working now? If it is not you will need to replace the alternator and see if the problem goes away.

If the alternator is working-

Which engine do you have?
Does the check engine light (or MIL) come on while the engine is running?

I am waiting on the new high output alternator to come in (tomarrow hopefully). I have the 3800 v6 and the check engine light doesnt come on

Okay, let me know if the problem clears up with a working alternator.

the new alt took a little longer than expected but i was able to get it in on the 8th. ive havent really driven it that much since then but the problem has reoccured again but it was realatively shorter(either im getting better at corecting it or the new alt helped a litle)

How many miles?

Have you checked the plugs wires? Also check the coils for signs of misfiring (carbon tracking) possibly caused by corrosion in the coil towers. A misfire should turn on the check engine light.

The next thing to check is fuel pressure. You'll need a gauge for this. I think some parts stores will lend the gauge (for a fully refundable deposit).

1998 Chev Camaro Fuel System Won't Start When stopped When cold

If the car has not been started for an hour or so, it takes 5-10 seconds of cranking for it to start.
When it starts, you can smell raw gas, it sometimes puffs a cloud of exhaust, and will run rough for a minute or so.After it starts, it runs fine.
3800 V-6. 100,000 miles-mostly highway.
Most things have been checked. Injectors, plugs and wires replaced, also 2 of the 3 coils.
No codes in the computer??

Check the fuel pressure. Many times the problems with injection can be pressure problems. Is your mileage down? If the pressure regulator is bad it will play havoc with the running of the vehicle. Check pressure at crank and while running. Some times pressure builds at different times

Tyler

The car runs great after it starts. If I shut it off and start it in a few minutes, it will start right up. If it sits for an hour or so, it start very hard. If it sets for maybe a day, it will start right up. Any more suggestions.

1998 Chev Camaro Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start When starting Always

I just put a new cylinoid on the starter and it works fine when I test it (pushes the gear up and turns it) but everytime I bolt it back on the car it doesn't catch the flywheel. I can even feel the gear kicking forward when it's being turned over. I have put it in 3 times and still I can't seem to get it right. There are only the two bolts that hold it and once they're tight theres no room for "adjustment". What do I need to do?

Also is there a web site that would have a complete diagram of how the starter is assembled, just so i can check to make sure I've got that right?

Hello, Are you using the same starter motor with a new solenoid? Did you have metal shims between the starter and the bell housing that you didn't re-use?

Starter gear engagement is adjusted by the use of shims that go between the starter housing and the bell housing on the engine. The shims are about 3/4" wide and 4" long and are pre-drilled to allow the starter mount bolts to hold them in place as you install the starter to the engine. The starter mount bolts go right through these shims as you are installing the starter and will set the starter gear in alignment with the flywheel ring gear.

Inspect the flywheel ring gear for damage, too.

Generally, the number and thickness of shims used originally will again be needed should the starter be removed/reinstalled or replaced for whatever reason. There are cases when a new/different starter will need shims whereas the previous one did not. Shims often come in the box with a replacement starter but if not can be purchased at a auto parts supply store.

I believe you have the solenoid installed correctly or the bolt holes would not have aligned for mounting. You slip the return spring over the plunger and push the solenoid toward the starter, index and rotate the tab into the slot on the housing and watch the attachment holes line up, and then bolt it on.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

When you don't even respond to my input it makes me wonder...Did you release this question accidentally?

Thanks,

Roger

Still need help here?

Thanks,

Roger

How are you doing with this car, please?

Roger

i figured it out. it wasn't the shims, it was taht i was making the starter spin the wron way by having thr case on backwards oops

Wow! I bet that startled you when you saw what was happening...what then should be done with this question?

I sure didn't know you had the starter housing apart. I was thinking you had only put on the solenoid and then the gears would not mesh to spin the engine.

Thanks,

Roger

What do you want to do with this question, please?

Roger

What would you like to do with this question, please?

Thanks,

Roger

1997 Chev Camaro All Part Groups Won't Start When starting 

My camaro sometimes will not start. When it does start it will run normally for a while but sometimes while your driving down the road it will shut off. There appear to be some sensors in a box under the hood could it be one of those or is it a bigger problem. I am having one of the times it will not start right now. The engine turns over but will not fire.

This is actually a tough one, it could be sooo many things. First you will have to make sure that the fuel pump is working properly, check the fuel lines for any defects/leaks and then make sure you are getting spark to the plugs. The easiest thing to do first is check to see if the electric fuel pump in the gas tank "cycles". Have someone cyle the key to the "on" position,not "START" and have a listen at the tank for the pump to cycle, it will make a buzzing sound for a sec. or 2. than that....is there any check engine lights on? You may have to bite the bullet and let a "good" mechanic take a look at it. Good Luck!!!

Would it make a diffrence if I told you for the most part, until this most recent time, when I would jiggle around those sensors, the car would then start?

hmmm, can u trace down which one,sometimes when u disconnect the connectors,The wires "pull" out of their places a bit. Just make sure all connections are secure, 'bout all I can say at this time, sorry

1996 Chev Camaro Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise When driving Always

My new to me camaro is really noisy coming from the rear axle area while driving at med/high speeds, I checked the rear wheel bearings which were ok and the U-joints were fine. could this be the pinion bearing or are these rears just noisy?

Hello, Look carefully at the tire treads for irregular wear such as cupping.

If tires are ruled out, would you describe the noise as more noticable on light acceleration or coast?

Please advise,

Roger

Tires are essentialy new, 4k miles, no cupping at all. The noise is mostly on acceleration and quiets some during decel.

I suggest a road test with a shop foreman at a good dealership or garage.

I don't know how many miles are on this one but it could be the differentiel needs checked for proper gear mesh pattern or case side bearing wear.

There is also the level and type of lubricant to consider. I'd want to see how much metal was caught on the magnet inside the differential case cover.

Roger

1995 Chev Camaro Engine Won't Start  

1995 camero, when you put the key in the car wont turn over, the battery is good, we checked the fuses and the relays we could get to, also the lights will work but the windows, radio and gauges dont have power and before this started the radio stayed on after the car was turned off, was this normal. We just bought the car a month ago for our daughter.

sounds like you may have one of 2 possible problems....
1. your ignition switch might be bad (not the key cylinder)
2.your starter might be bad but that shouldnt affect your electronics in the car

I am leaning towards a bad ignition switch as that would affect your interior concerns

you can contact me at [redacted] after accepting this reply if I can be of further assistance. Good Luck

Walt Boyer
ASE Master Tech

I take it there is no current warranty.

A few questions to get us started.

Which engine do you have, 3.4, 3.8, or 5.7L?

Do any of the in dash warning lights come on as they normally do?

Will the power windows or radio work with the key in the accessory position?

It is also important when checking fuses to use a test light to be certain there is power on both sides of the fuse.

Just to be sure, you have checked battery connections, grounds, etc.

to Douglas: enginge is a 3.4, the dash warning lights dont come on, nor does the radio or windows work when key is turned to accesory or any position.

1994 Chev Camaro Ignition System   

Spark plug wires removed nothing marked, timing does not match cylinder spark pack numbers. Car came to me in this condition, need to find proper firing order to determin any other timing issues ie timing set? Previous owner said it ran bad and would not start again,fuel presure is good spark seems good no codes being thrown, cats clear?

Which engine do you have so I can give the firing order?

You may need to check cylinder compression to rule out the possibility of the timing chain jumping.

If you want to look up the firing order yourself, Copy and Paste the following link into your Address Bar-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

Enter Year, Make, Model, Etc to begin a free online repair quide.

Let me know what you find and we'll continue as necessary.

Thank you- The Camaro is a 1994 with a 3.8L, I am using a Chilton's, the firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6, the foot note in the firing order states "if the distributor is not keyed for installation with only one orientation, it could have been removed previously and rewired"? Distributor? Goes on to state "the resulting wiring would hold the correct firing order, but could change the relative placement of the plug towers in relationship to the engine." Great, the crankshaft positioning sensor was replaced,(previous owner) the engine when cranking tries to start but has a detonation at the exhaust manifold on the odd spark plug bank, thought it might be a plugged cat. no luck. I am thinking cam chain or cam sensor in addition to firing order, long lost are days of distributors pointing at number one cyl., and I do not have a cyliscope on hand. Compression test had all cylinders at 90-80 with the low a #6 at 70, good enough, the engine has 145,000 on it. Will there be a need to just start taking the engine apart to find problem or play parts changer?

Thanks, Jeff

If your battery was strong (and the starter is good) those compression readings are low. Perhaps the engine has been flooded (oil washed out of rings causing low compression)? Squirt some oil into a cylinder, wait a while and see if compression takes a noticeable jump.

1994 Chev Camaro Ignition System   

THERE IS A RED PLUG UNDER DASH THAT HAS SIX WIRES NEED TO FIND OUT WHAT IT PLUGS INTO

I need to know what engine you have and the color codes on the wires to pinpoint it.
Is it hanging loose or atached to the dashboard?

I need to know what engine you have is it a 6 or 8 cylinder and the color codes on the wires to pinpoint it.
If it is under the dash next to the fuse box then that would be your dianostic link connector for scanning the PCM to retrieve fault codes.
Is it hanging loose or attached to the dashboard

It is a 5.7 the plug has abcde on it and colars are a bro b bl c org d purp e gray

I have several diagrams to choose from with attachments
Is the letter in your vin S or P and is it mounted or hanging and close towhat?

There is a g and p in the vin and the plug is hanging under the dash to the right hand side of stearing colum it apears to plug in to a relay or something of that type the plug is red and has abcde on it the wires are bro,blk,orenge,purple,gray,

1994 Chev Camaro Ignition System   

1994 3.4l camaro I recently had issues with the car cutting out and dying the car would restart and run cutting out intermitently.The problem got worse and worse eventually the car would not run only turn over.
I replaced fuel filter, fuel pump, crank position sensors(2), finally replaced ICM and it ran fine for about a week. then same problem started over again now will not run again I went and replaced ICM again but car will not fire?? any help would be great. (I noticed when I removed the Crank sensor on the side of the engine there was a few metal shavings on the magnet on the end of it. if that matters not sure.

Hello
Have you tried changing the plugs, wires and distributer cap.
Another common deal is the anti-theft device. It can cause it to do many things drain the battery and cause it not to start or not fire. Its supposed to do that incase car is stolen. A good indication is that your gauges will act in the car will key is in the on position.
Heavychevy

also check all the fuses

I had also changed the plugs and wires. it wouldn't be a maf sensor or anything like that would it. suppose it maybe a loose wire or something stupid but can figure out why it ran fine for about two weeks after changing everything and now wont even fire. Its getting fuel but no spark so Ill have to troubleshoot the coil packs again and the power into the ICM

thats about all the advice I can give you is to track down the problem with an ohm meter.
Heavychevy

.

I ohmed out the coil packs they check out fine. there is only a signal coming out of the middle coil pack when plugged in. there is power going to the ICM but no trigger signal coming out of the ICM. So maybe I got a bad ICM from the parts store.

Take your ohm meter, and measure the resistance on the 2 wire crank sensor wire at the ignition module. It should measure [redacted] ohms, and infinite resistance to ground. If you have a problem in either of these readings, you can have these symptoms. Look for a bad sensor OR a burnt, frayed, rubbed or pinched harness.

ok I brought ICM in and it is good coil paks are good ohmed out the the crank sensor that is good. maybe ECM/PCM, trottle position sensor, or MAP sensor?? its about all that is left lol I am about ready to just take it in cant figure it out.

Check the injectors

the injectors are not working either hmmm plugs are even dry. there is plenty of preasure at the fuel rail i had changed the fuel filter and fuel pump about two weeks ago.

so no spark no fuel should I take the ECM in and have it checked out

Yes I would get the ECM checked you may have gotton ahold of a bad one.

ok I ran a scan tool on it again it is telling me that throttle postion votage is low and one that says it is to high go figure. and 3x crank sensor error which i am guessing may be the bigger factor? since I believe that sends signal to get spark and maybe fuel to ??

Sounds like that could be it

..

OK I am waiting for parts sensor should be in tomorrow. I ohmed out the 3x sensor it is at 850ohms spec is between 600 and 1200 ohms and infinite to ground. I was experimenting and if I hook up the wire from the crank sensor to the ICM and check the yellow wire to ground I get 850 ohms also is this ok? that would mean it is being grounded somewhere along the way. sorry I just getting sick of dumping money into parts that dont fix the problem.

Id wait fo rthe part before doing anything else

ok put the 3x sensor in and trottle position sensor still nothing what do I have left?

(fuel pump relay) see if the fuel pump comes on when you turn the key.

I have fuel at the rail plenty of preasure I replace the fuel pump and filter starting out with this project.

check the ecm if you arnt getting spark or fuel maybe didconnect it and reconnect and make sure its grounded good.

I tried all of the grounds they checked out good could it just be the ECM is there anyplace that can test the ECM I tried o reileys and they told me they couldn't do it they tested the ICM said that was good.

cant think of any place that would test it do you have any autsalvage places around so you can take the ecm off to test on your car instead of spending money on a new one

would The scan tool still be able to give me codes if it was an ECM problem??

yes it would if the ecm is working it could tell you about what part is working but if it isnt getting power or is burnt up no it wont

OK well it is giving me codes so it must be working I guess. Taking it to the shop tonight someone elses problem now. I'll let ya know what they find for future reference.

ok

OK finally got it running ended up replacing all of the connectors to the ICM and replaced the new throttle position sensor must have gotten a bad one. The 24x sensor is still giving a code so going to replace that now and see what I got maybe the connectors are bad on that as well. I must have spread the connectors apart while I was testing the connections. still kind of weird. It runs though. lol
thank you for your help.
Austin

Glad to hear you got it running. If any issues arise feel free to contact.
Heavychevy

1993 Chev Camaro All Part Groups Stalling Happens sometimes No pattern

i have a 93 camaro 3.4,
recently i have been getting a very random symptom that resembles misfiring.. it only happens every once in a while but when it does i have to shut the car off and let it sit for at least 3 hrs. i have replaced the o2 sensors, tps, ops,belt, plugs, wires, coils, iac motor,vacuum lines and pcv valve, as well as VERY regular filter changes.. air and oil every 3000 and fuel every 10,000 the last fuel was about 4,00 ago and i cant seem to get a handle on the problem, it gives an egr code but, i changed it out.. and get the same code..(this was prior to the stalling) when the stalling occurs, the engine misses terribly, like its running on 3 cyl. the last time this happened was last night.. i was joyriding and rding it hard, when i hit 3rd gear the engine unloaded and started losing power. but still accelerating..when i finally brought it back down to idle it started to hesitate like it was going to have one of its fits.. luckily i was right around the corner from the house so i parked it and let it sit. by morning time she started right up and gave me no probems.. im confused.. and running out of things to replace.. please help.

Hello, Can you get your hands on a NODE LIGHT so that you may test each fuel injector and see if the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is commanding their operation?

A node light simply plugs into the wiring harness connector of the injector you have disconnected. It will flash everytime the PCM tells the injector to "fire" when the engine is cranking or running. Of course you would do this when the problem is present.

After a period of operating time there may be a circuit problem in the PCM that causes injectors to drop out. After a cooling down period the problem may "fix" itself.

PCM controlled circuits can react this same way. You stated you get an EGR code.

What EGR code do you get? Do you have access to a scanner (not just a code reader)?

Please advise,

Roger

Hello, May I hear from you concerning the status of this question, please?

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, I'm hoping you'll update me on the status of your question.

Please advise,

Roger

1993 Chev Camaro Engine   

on replacing my engine we almost had everthing done but my grandfather noticed the injectors were not seeping there is no room and you cant see is there an easier way to get them to go in than having to pull the motor back out?it is the 3.4 sfi please help monica

the inject5ors will not go into the intake how do we get them in

you can call my granfather collect he could explain the problem this car has been down for 3 weeks we just replaced the motor could this be the problem monica [redacted]

Hello, I'm trying to understand what you need and how to guide you.

Surely I can find instruction for you to get the injectors in without pulling the engine. How many do you still need to install?

Please advise,

Roger

the front 3 are in ,there is one in the back drivers side and two in the back passager side,the problem is there is only two inches of space from the upper manifold to the fire wall under the windshield and you cant see thank tou for any help monica

I'll get some ideas from the Mitchell 1 Auto Repair Data Base today.

Do you have a FAX number available to you?

Roger

not really i can get kinkos number on 74 and penn in oklahoma city ill be off work by 6 monica thanks

Monica, What is the eigth digit of the Camaro's VIN? Is it a "X" or a "S"?

Don't worry about getting Kinko's FAX number. I don't want you to pay for a FAX.

I'll try calling your grandfather this evening. It will be a local call for me! We'll work this out.

Roger

Monica, After talking with you and your grandfather I know the 8th VIN digit to be a "S".

Now that the car starts and runs for up to a minute before it dies, lets find out what code is being set.

I'll call you back about extracting the code. Once we know the code we can map a repair path.

Roger

1991 Chev Camaro All Part Groups Making Noise When driving Always

I have a 1991 Camaro RS with 3.1 litre V-6 engine. I have a "bumping" noise under the front passenger floorboard/front middle of car when I go over rough roads. I have had struts, steering idler arm, muffler and exhaust pipes replaced and the noise is still there. My mechanic has checked my car and lubed everything and said everything is tight. I had another mechanic tell me it was the catalytic converter making the noise. There is also a "creaking" noise under the driver side floorboard, after the car is driven for about 15 minutes, during turning and braking. My car has a little over 80,000 miles on it and has been well maintained since I purchased it new. Help! Thank you.
You may contact me at indaoo@msn.com

The "bumping" noise is not directly under the passenger floorboard - it is behind the "slope" of the floorboard (back of the engine?). The "creaking" noise is more under the brake pedal and going toward the middle of the car, not directly under the driver's floorboard.

You said you had the struts replaced, did they also replace the strut mounts? They tend to cause a "bumping" noise when hitting or going over bumps.

Another posibility to check would be the sway bar mounts and end links.

Have your mechanic also check the lower control arm bushings. He may need to use a pry bar to check for movement.

There really isn't much left under the car to make your noise unless your exhaust is moving about.

Let me know how it goes, and we can continue from there.

Thanks,

Walt Boyer
ASE Master Tech

1991 Chev Camaro Engine Hesitating When accelerating When cold

Have a Camaro RS 305 TBI.
When the engine is is cold it, idles fine but studders and hesitates when accelerating normally. Even the smallest uphill is a problem. Pressing down accelerator very much it accelerates alot.

When engine has run (normally)warm for a while. Turned off and left off for 15-30 minutes it starts imideatly but stalls and is very hard to get starting again. It does start, and needs to be revved to 2000-3000 rpm for a few second before running smoothly again.

Been told this could be a EGR problem = costly. Any ideas?
Regards Sven

The way to isolate the EGR valve is to temporarily disconnect it and see if there is any change.

Have you checked for troublecodes? Need instructions?

When was the last tune up?

Answer these questions and we'll go from there.

There are no trouble codes. Was checked a week ago. Replaced sparkplugs about two weeks ago, they looked fine, and ignintion was adjusted.
Tune up was about 6 months ago, changed plugs, cables, dist.cap, rotor, engine oil & filter, transmission oil and filter, fuel filter, air filter, cooling fluid and thermostat.

I will test disconnecting EGR and get back to you.

OK. I have disconnected EGR, plugged the hose. The problems are exactly the same.
When cold: runs smoothly on idle, accelerating from standstill it barly increases the RPM if I don't accelerate hard.
It feels like it needs more choke (runs too lean), when i quickly press down accelerator just a little it makes a quick jump and then starts to studder and hesitate. It like the accelerator pump (i know there is none on a TBI) momentarily gives it enough fuel and then it runs too lean again.

Warm: With the EGR disconnected it ticks like the ignition timing is way to early (I guess that's because the increase in combustion temperature). I also realized that it acts the same way when the engine temp is normal as it does when cold, but much less obvious symptoms. That's about all I can think of. Oh, it has about 150k miles on it.

Contact your local chevy dealer parts department and see if their is an updated PROM for your complaint. A variety of GM products had similar complaints from that era.

1991 Chev Camaro Engine Malfunction When starting Always

We put new plugs and wires, cap, every thing is new in the distrbutor, put it back with #1 cyc at top dead center, and won't start, uless you turn the distrbutor all the way clock wise and it will stsrt but run rough till you trnu it all the way but the other way. check for any ecm codes and there is none. could this be the timing gear is out or WHAT?

Hello, Did you notice that as the distributor lowers into place that the rotor and shaft rotate? I believe you are one or two gear teeth out of time.

With the engine running if you tried to set the timing with a timing light you'd find it impossible to set.

Try slowly raising the distributor just enough that you can feel the driven gear on the distributor shaft "hop" to the next tooth on the drive gear on the cam. This of course takes two hands. One to lift the distributor and the other on the rotor to feel the gears as you re-index the timing of these gears. I would start by turning the rotor the opposite way that you have been turning the distributor assembly to get the engine to start.

Thoughts?,

Roger

Will you please update the status of this question?

Thanks,

Roger

1991 Chev Camaro Ignition System   

A few days ago my 1991 3.4l camaro started chugging and backfired. After sitting started up and drove it about 4 blocks would idle fine after sitting but would cut out and die at 1500 - 2000rpm. I changed fuel pump and filter same thing only now fired once and wont start. Under cranking the spark plugs do not appear to be firing. I have no error codes?? Fuel preasure is good.

sorry this is a 1994 camaro not a 1991 been a long week

Long weeks tend to do that~!A common problem with GM's from that era is the crank position sensor.Its usually mounted to the side of the block, down below. usually just above the pan rail. It has two wires that go to the ignition module.
Its a small part that is about the size of your pinkie finger.Usually held on with one screw, costs about $40.
The last few I replace, did not exhibit any diagnostic codes either.

OK replace both of the crank sensors still will not run I am stumped any ideas??maybe coil packs?? I cannot get any spark while turning the engine over

The car has to be exhibiting some sort of dignostic code, even if yjere is no "check engine' light, even an intermittent code.
Coil packs seldom quit at the same time, Voltage going to coils? Voltage at module under the coil packs?
If everything checks out, and still no codes, it might be computer...

OK I was bound and determined to get this thing running I did some trouble shooting on the Ignition Control module power going in so removed the coil paks and tested coil terminals there was no pulse coming out of module so replaced it runs like a top thank you for your input.

1990 Chev Camaro Engine   

have a chev engine from a comaro which I am putting into a boat (in Au). need info on chev cam shaft timing. can you help please. Is a 305 V8 roller cam. Only guessing it's 1990 but would be somewhere around there. thanks Rod Muggeridge, Brisbane, Aus

What info are you looking for? Simply timing marks?

require position of timing marks no.1 piston top dead center. Thanks

Use the following link to for an image and instructions. Copy and Paste the links into your Address Bar.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/16/34/5[redacted] 3459.jsp

Here is an image for the firing order, should you need it-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=C001&UserAction=performSearch&Parameters=Auto+Store%7C%7ESPECIFICATIONS%7C%7EFiring+Order

Note- Click on images to enlarge when you access the links.

1990 Chev Camaro Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always No pattern

Can you tell me where the grounds are for steering column switches,[combination lever], and what they look like? I beleive either combination switch is bad, or grounds are not connecting good. I was told that grounds for steering column are under dash somewhere, but I don't know where, or what to look for. Thanks!!!

The ground that you will be looking for is located just beneath the dash attached to the sterring columb.
it is a commom ground and is depended on the steering columb being mounted at the base of the floor board.
a consistent ground can be pulled from anywhere on the chasis if you need to reroute a ground wire.
There would not be a multitude of grounds
most componets are grounded at the location where they mount and within the columb you are dealing with a combination of switch legs.
you may use the chasis to test with a test light tothe swich legs
I hope this helps

Could you please give me a wiring diagram, or picture showing me what it is that I am looking for?

GIVE ME AN EMAIL ADRESS THAT I CAN SEND IT TO .
I HAVE TO SCAN IT INTO MY COMPUTER

Thank you, here is the email address [redacted] ,
looking forward to it.

I am sending it rigt now

check for power into the switch it could be a bad fuse or a break in the wiring to the switch

1989 Chev Camaro Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start Happens always Always

where is the starter relay on 1989 Camaro? When I turn the key to start, the 'temp' gage goes max, but the starter solenoid does not click. I know the starter is good. I can 'jump start' with screwdriver across the terminals on the starter solenoid.

Hi;
You do not have a starter relay. Make sure that the small wire at the starter has a good connection and also check the wires coming out of where the battery cable comes in. This wires are fusible links and will sometimes break. Good Luck Les.

Hello, Les,
I had already done these things and the connections are good. You say that these leads are 'fuseable'... Where are the fuses? Also, the smaller wire to the starter solenoid doesn't run all the way to the ignition switch does it? hard to believe there is no relay to carry the amps. is it typical for the 'temp' gage to peak max when switch is turned to start?
I sure hope to pay for your services soon. Thanks Bill

Hi;
The wires are the fuses. With a test light, check them at the starter and the you will see about 12in. away from the starter that has a shrink tube around it. That part of the wire is the fuse. And the answer to your question is that starter solenoid on top of the starter carries all the amps to the starter through your positive cable. You ignition switch only transfers about 25 amps to the solenoid to energize a contact switch. Also the gauges sometimes will max out when the ignition switch is on if they are magnetic until the car is started and it gets a reading from the sending unit. Thanks Les.

Hello, Les,
Yes, i know about the inline fuses and have tested the continuity of the 'hot wires' from the large terminal of the starter motor. What i need is a wiring diagram that will tell me the color &/or location of the wire from the ignition switch that is hot when you turn the key to 'start' position. I am not getting current to that wire at the starter.
thanks again for your attempts and advise. Can you help me with a diagram? send as attachment to email address: [redacted] Bill

Hi;
The wire should be orange. Sounds like the ignition switch might be bad. Also you did not state if automatic or stick shift. Both of them have a safety switch in the system. If stick shift there should be a switch at the clutch pedal. If it has come out of adjustment it will not start. If automatic there is a switch either at the shifter or on top of the transmission. You might try moving the shifter to neutral and see if it will start. Let me know which one you have and I'll see if I can come up with a shematic. Good Luck Les.

Hello, Les,
Are you going to be able to come up with a wiring diagram with the ignition switch -to- starter motor included?
thanks,
bill

Hi;
Check your email and thewiring schematic should be there shortly. Hope is what you are looking for. Thanks Les.

Hey, Les,
Now we're back to my original question.... Where is the starter relay??? the diagram shows a 'pass key decoder module' that enables (powers on) the starter relay. can you help me locate that relay?
I think we must be just about there. Sorry to be workin ya so hard for ten bucks.
Thanks,
Bill

Hi;
Follow the wiring diagram. You have what they call a starter enable relay. This is the diagram to a 3.8L. engine. If you have a different engine then please let me know. Thanks Les.

Hey, Les,
Yes, its a 2.8 L not 3.8 ; and it does have the 'chip' on the key. I have confirmed current to the yellow wire when i turn the ignition to 'start'.
I can't find the purple wire from the shifter. Its automatic trans.
over,
bill

Hi;
Looking at the schematic looks like its coming out of the starter enable relay.
Thanks les.

Hey, Les,
OK... Since we can't find the starter enable relay,,, I just run a jump wire from the yellow at the ignition switch to the purple at the trans shifter switch. This works. now when i turn key to start, it starts. Remember my initial question was "Where is the starter relay" you said there's not one... now we know there is one and still don't know WHERE it is. I would be glad to give you the ten spot, but you haven't helped me solve my problem. should i pass this on to others or can you give me good reason to let you have it? How long you been doing this? is it worth your time?
God bless you,
Bill

Hi Bill;
The relay should be under the dash on the drivers side above the kick panel. I have been doing auto mechanics for 20 years. Sorry about the way you feel, but a lot of info was not at the beggining of your question. I have worked on a lot of different vehicles and everyone of them is different. The only ones that use a relay is the ones with the chip on the key. you should be able to trace the yellow wire rught up to it. Thanks again Les.

1989 Chev Camaro Ignition System   

1989 Camero Ignition no fuel and no spark, could it be the Anti-Theft system??. If so where is the Sensor located

You should have a security light on your dash, what is it doing when you turn the key on? Does the starter crank the engine?

Which engine do you have?

I was told that my Problem was in the Anti- Theft Sensor. No power no crank no fuel, just won't start.
Have had the Ignition key check out and it is OK.

Is this the anti theft system with a pellet in the key?

If it is, do you want to bypass the security system (if you live in a crime free area and car theft is not a concern), as this can be done inexpensively OR repair the problem? If you wish to repair the problem you'll probably need to install a new lock cylinder. If the problem is elsewhere in this system diagnostics really requires shop equipment to run tests.

Thank You so VERY much, that is exactly what i would like to do. So, where do we start??

Tom

Measure the resistor in your key. Go to an electronics store (Radio Shack) and buy a resistor (inexpensive) that matches the pellet in your key (if you don't have an ohm meter they can should be able to measure it for you, maybe call ahead.)

Does your car have an airbag?

When u say the Pellet u are taking about the Black Chip that is on the KEY?? and if so how do you change the PELLET??

Thank You
Tom

Yes, I don't know of any way to change the pellet. The pellet can be cleaned, as well as the inside of the lock cylinder, but this will only help if it dirty. More often the problem is with the wiring that comes out of the lock cylinder.

What you do is find the two wires (down the steering column). Cut these wires and solder a resistor (with the same value as chip/pellet in the key) inbetween the wires.

When you turn on the ignition key the theft system sees the proper resistance and allows the vehicle to start. When the wires break or the key becomes dirty the security system sees the wrong resistance and will not allow the vehicle to start.

I need to know if you have an airbag, as it is very dangerous to work around it. You have to avoid these wires, as accidental deployment of the airbag can occur (this is the dangerous part).

How would you relace the Resistor??.Where can i go to have ths DONE? Sorry for being a PAIN but i NEED all the HELP i can get.

Thank You
Tom

Think of it like this-

The resistor/pellet is in the key. When you insert the key into the lock cylinder the resistance value flows from the key through the lock cylinder into two wires.

What you are doing is locating the two wires that come out near the bottom of the steering column (BUT NOT THE AIR BAG WIRES, THEY SHOULD HAVE TAGS ON THEM). Cut the two wires and put a resistor in between them. This simply eliminates the lock cylinder by moving the resistor further down the system (it comes from the resistor you attach instead of the key).

Does your key look the black ones in the following link-

http://vats.likeabigdog.com/

Don't worry, I'll stick with you through the repair- No limit :)

Hey Doug
Went to the site that u suggested to look at the Ignition key it is Idenical, except for that my Camero is a 1989. They show a 1986(?)-1996 Vette (C4)
what does this mean?? Once again many many thanks. Will be chatting with you soon.

Tom

If you have that same key it uses a pellet and the bypass should work.

Have you contacted Radio Shack, or another electronics store to see if they'll measure the resisitance of the pellet so you can buy a matching relay. It wouldn't hurt to print off the instructions and take them in with you so they have an understaning of what you are doing.

Hey Doug what should i use to clean the Pellet with?
please advise.

Spray electrical cleaner is fine, this will not help if the key/lock cylinder is not dirty.

How the best way to clean the Key Lock?does it have to be taken apart.

Thank you

No, simply spray some electrical cleaner into the key hole.

Well that didn't work, so i guess the next best think to do is to locate (2)yellow wires.I did find (2)yellow wires inside the kick panel are these the ones that have to be cliped then add the RESISTORS???

Thank you

Tom

I'm not sure, which kick panel are they in?

Can you find them coming out near the bottom of the shift column (may have to remove a panel to see them).

Sorry Doug,just desregard. I think i may have my Camero running soon?? Will let you know, again many thanks.

Tom

1989 Chev Camaro Ignition System   

I installed a set of spark plug ignition wires, I believe I mixed them up when I replaced the Cap & rotor. 1989 Chevy Camaro v-6 RS

I'm having trouble starting vehicle. Was working fine before cable mix-up. Need assistance. Maybe a diaphgram will help.

Send your email address to:
[redacted] and
I will send you the diagram
from my shop manual. Although
there is a way to send diagrams
in the Allparts forum, the email
is easier!.
Bruce

My E-MAIL address is [redacted]

Sent diagram....

1988 Chev Camaro Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start  

what is the correct firing order for a 88 camaro RS, 2.8L , v6?

thought this was gonna be a tough one . Your firing order is 1,2,3,4,5,6 in a clockwise direction. If I can be of further assistance you can contact me at [redacted] upon accepting this response. Good Luck

Walt Boyer
ASE Master Tech

1988 Chev Camaro Engine  When idling When cold

When I start the car, the idle goes between 1200 and 500 rpm. When it drops back it almost stalls. The idle improves some when the car warms, but it still hesitates when accelerating. The computer is giving me no error code.

First of all check for an improper operating choke after that for a bad spark plug or wires almost any basic tune up parts can cause the symptoms you are experiencing
In my opinion a basic tune up would be an inexpensive start
If the problem continues Check fuel filter although there is usually a code stored for these.
Understand that a code will only be stored if the fault has gone to a certain level usually a componet would have to be all the way bad to be alerted as a error
It is possible that the following will get past the computer scanner
choke not operating correctly
definately look for vacume leaks especially around the intake manifold a blown fuse eratic and inconsistent fuel pressure , just not enough to send a error to the computer.
faulty pcv valve, choke not operating correctly, damaged distributor components,
This is going to be a hit and miss process of elimination ordeal so I wish you well
Hope this helps
Macconneck"

1988 Chev Camaro Drive Train / Driveline   

replaced clutch , pressure plate ,pilot bearing, and slave cylinder on a 2.8 5 speed. clutch still engages at 1 inch off floor. i bled all air out of slace cylinder. clutch travels at least 3 inches before resistance is felt or slave starts to move. what am i missing on the problem?

You may still have air in the system, these can be tough to bleed. If it keeps getting air in it OR will not begin to travel the clutch master cylinder is probably bad.

thanks for your help

1988 Chev Camaro Heating / Cooling System   

I need a picture of how to replace the evaporator core in a 1988 camaro

send me an email adress and give me more details
engine size
model of camaro

1988 Chevy Camaro RS 2.8 V6 Automatic Trans.
[redacted]

did you get it?

Yes, Thanks.
This seem to be for the heater core.
Is the evaporator in the same place?

no I assumed that you meant the heater core
I will send another diagram.
Let me know when you get it

can you give me a more discriptive name for the part you wan info on ?
the evaporator canister is the only other thing that comes to mind close to the term you used
is that it?
let me know so I can get you the right information

It is called the evaporator core and it is where one side of the expansion canister connects. The fan blows across it to get the cold air into the inside of the car.

I have to get that info from my shop later on tthis evening and I will email it to you

OK, Thank You very much for your time and effort.
Bill

your evaporative core is in the same location as the heater core up inside the dashboard the info I sent you will still get you right to it.

1988 Chev Camaro Fuel System   

1988 Camaro 2.8 L MPFI Fuel system
Car will not even attempt to start. Has fire to the plugs. Has fuel pressure at the fuel rail- 39lbs. Has new distributor & module, rotor, and coil. ECM diagnostics shows no codes except low voltage to cooling sensor. Problem began with hard starting - idling was erratic with engine running rough like not firing on all cylinders. Now won't start. I feel fuel is not getting into engine? What next from here?


I don't think I am getting fuel into the engine. What could it be?

First try a little starter fluid and see if it fires up then you will know that it is fuel related.
next you will want to check your injectors
you can place a screwdiver against the injector and listen through the handle for a click when someone else turns the key to the run position.
You can also pull the connector off of the injector and take a resistance check and compare the values to the other injectors
Do these and get back to me

Car is fixed. The key was the low voltage to the cooling sensor. It showed -38 degrees F. Due to this, it was dumping more fuel into the engine and fouling the plugs. Replaced cooling sensor, cleaned plugs. Car runs great.

Information was received from a radio talk show mechanic.
Even though we were searching for the cause in the wrong direction, your suggestions were appreciated.

Thank-you

Well thank you I am glad you got it done
take it easy

Apparently I spoke too soon. The car would not start again. It does start with starting fluid. The diagnostic reader will not clear the previous message. It says to check the connection at the ECM. The connection seems fine. That is far as I have gotten.

What is the exact code number that you are getting?
Take off the connector and spraynit wiyt an electrical parts cleaner

1987 Chev Camaro Electrical / Lighting Systems   

headlights, dome light, radio and trunk do not work. Hazard lights and signal lights still work

Hello, do you have a wiring diagram to guide you?

Roger

Has this car been fixed? Please update.

Thanks,

Roger

1968 Chev Camaro Electrical / Lighting Systems   

my car will not fire up after i replaced a bad starter, now i do not have power to to anything on the car.. i have checked all fuses and wires i even tried to jump the car replaced the battery but i still can't get it to start. What can be wrong? Any sugestions that might help me? thank you inadvance

The most likely cause is the 10 guage red wire at the main starter terminal.The entire car and all the terminals get their power from there.Check that it is connected. and check along its length.It goes to the fuse box and if you can check there with a test light. Also ensure the two smaller terminals on starter solenoid are wired correctly.The small terminal (block side) has the purple wire.

1968 Chev Camaro Ignition System   

My battery is new and my alternator but is not charging my battery, a mechanic told me the alternator was not reciving 12 volts from the ignition wire, how do i check the wire?

Check fusible links/fuses and connections at the battery, solenoid, etc. If these are okay, use a meter to check the wire. With the battery unhooked you can use an ohm meter and trace there wire back to find the break/short. Simply attach one lead from the ohm meter to the end of the wire and other the other several feet away to see if you have continuity. If you do, follow the wire further back and recheck. Continue this process until you locate the section of wire with problem, if necessary of course, you may find the problem sooner.

the cable that goes to the solenoid is new, but it has a really small burnt spot on the surfice should i change it?

I checked all the wires there were all good, the one from the ignition to the alternator has 13.5 volts , the alternator has 11 volts when the car is on,i took it off and had it tested were i had it rebuilt and they said the alternator had 14 volts so i took it to auto zone & Advance auto parts it showed 11 volts i think those guys who rebuilt it are not telling me the truth

Did they test the alternator on or off the car?

they tested the alternator off the car, I tested the alternator on & running I got 11 volts

1968 Chev Camaro Ignition System   

how do i take apart the old ignition switch so i can put the new one in

disconnect battery
remove lock cylinder by positioning switch in accessory position and inserting a wire in the small hole located in the cylinder face.
while pushing in wire, continue to turn the key counter clockwise to remove cylinder.
Remove bezel nut and pull out ignition switch.
unsnap locking tangs on connector with a screwdriver, unplug connector
reverse procedure to install.

If you do not have the original key the process is simplier rent a dent puller. Screw it tightly into the ignition key hole and snatch it out hard with the dent puller.
Remove bezel nut and pull out ignition switch.
unsnap locking tangs on connector with a screwdriver, unplug connector
you can use the reverse prcedures to put in the new switch that is wit the key inserted and turning it in the clockwise position.
I hope this helps

this worked great, thanks

I am glad and you are welcome
take care