Car began missing about 200 mi.ago. Dealer installed 8 new injectors.Car will run 15-40 minutes then s tall and won't start until engine is completely cool.I have installed new fuel pump,ign.module and coil.fuel pressure is 38 psi spark is yellowish but both are the same @ cold start or hot stall condition any idea what is going on?
Roger -
Hi, Has the exhaust been checked for restriction? If the engine can't breathe it won't run.
Driving the car with a misfire can result in unburned fuel collecting in the catalytic converter. When the fuel soaked core of the converter heats up (it may glow cherry red hot) it will cause the material inside the converter to solidify and block exhaust flow. When the engine warms up the computer leans out the fuel mixture. It runs when it is cold because the fuel mix is much richer.
When warmed up and stalled if you removed an O2 Sensor (take great care or you can burn yourself) to provide exhaust relief the engine may indeed start. If it does you will want to check the converter. This test is a noisey one but you won't run the engine long. You just want to see if it will start.
1989 Chev Camaro IROC Ignition System Won't Start Happens sometimes No pattern
New User Asked -
Sometimes when I go to start up my car it does nonthing, but show me the security light, along with the service engine soon light, and I wait a few minutes and it will start right up. Also sometimes when I am stopped at a stop light, my car will turn off, and the service engine soon light will come up, but always starts right up. It is the V-8 305(L03) TBI option. What is my problem.
Roger -
Hello, I've been thinking about this car. Do you have a "chip" in the blade of the ignition key that the security module in the car "reads" before the car will start?
Anytime the engine is not running but the ignition is on, the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light should be on. That is normal.
If this car has never had an ignition lock cylinder replaced in all these years of service, wear in the lock cylinder may be responsible for not reading the computer chip in the ignition key so that the security module will allow the car to start.
I have had an improvement in key chip performance by simply cleaning the chip in the key with rubbing alcohol to get dirt, hand lotion and the like off the key.
As for the engine turning off at a light, it sounds like it just died at idle and is not a security module issue as it restarts okay without delay. That could be a simple tune-up or idle speed adjustment need.
Your thoughts?,
Roger
Roger -
Hello, Any news here?
Thanks,
Roger
Roger -
Hi, will you please update the status of your question? Still need help?
1989 Chev Camaro IROC Ignition System Won't Start When stopped Always
New User Asked -
Starter slowly died as noted by not starting when hot and then completely failing with the ticking sound when turing the key to start. Replaced the starter and now nothing happens when turning the key. Battery has juice, starter re-checked on bench, wires and connecters re-checked. Still no start?
Les -
Hi;
on GM they have fusible links that are at the starter. Check all of them. Most likely one of them burnt out due to the fact that it was pulling a lot of ampereage. Good Luck Les.
New User -
Would I easily be able to notice if a fusible like was fried? The reason I ask is I handled them a few times and looked right at them and the insulator did not appear damaged? If this means they are fine, what next? Ignition switch? It was obviously okay prior to removing starter?
Les -
Hi:
Looking at them will not tell you if it is fried. You need to check them at each end with a test light. Thanks Les.
I have an 89 iroc z28 with 5.7 tpi engine. The engine will fire up but will not idle. You must keep it running above 1700rpm or it will bounce in rpm and then die. It also has a strong fuel smell as if a flooding condition. I have used a scanner an no codes have been logged by the ecm. Also while holding the throttle steady to keep it running it will run smooth above 1700rpm but it will drop considerably in rpm then jump back up and sometimes if you don't tickle the throttle it will die. Any ideas?
kaptnzog -
Check for vaccum leaks going to and around the intake
Engine started fine, suddenly will not turn over at all, or even attempt to. No previous solenoid or starter warning sounds, just sudden death. Get all lights on dash when key is turned and can hear fuel injectors. But starter and solenoid do nothing! What do you think?
Roger -
Hello, Have you tested for voltage present on the wire that runs to the S terminal on the starter solenoid when the key is in the START position?
Roger
New User -
There is no voltage at the solenoid.
Roger -
Auto, or manual trans? If auto, will it start in Neutral? If standard, have you bypassed the clutch safety switch?
Does the ignition switch output voltage on the Yellow wire with the key in the start position?
Is there an alarm system on this car that factors here?
Roger
New User -
It has an Automatic tranny and no it does not start in Neutral. Have not checked voltage out of ignition switch. I just got this car, not aware of an alarm, but there is an alarm type LED in the dash that has never done anything. There is one piece under the hood that doesn't appear stock. It is a Ford type solenoid mounted over the passenger side wheel well. One switched wire comes from the battery, the other side to a large purple wire in a harness on the driver's side firewall. There is only one wire on the control voltage terminals and has never had the other.
Roger -
What is your email address please? I'll send you a wiring diagram that shows the wiring involved with the start system.
There is a starter enable relay that might be a cause but we need to know if the ignition switch outputs voltage on the yellow wire as that is where it ends up. (at the relay to energize it)
I believe this relay is located under the right side of the dash above the kick panel.
Roger
New User -
Thanks! My e-mail address is: [redacted]
Roger -
Okay Steve, this weekend when you get a chance to look at the car let me know what you'll need to guide you.
1989 Camaro, pops at 3250 rpm and loses power, engine does not die, earlier today pulling away from red light and engine lost all power. Have just replaced catalytic converter for second time, past two times had plugged up. Last time plugged up heard rattle from catalytic converter, this time do not hear rattle from catalytic converter but hear rattle from rear exhaust, could the exhaust muffler be plugging now?
Roger -
Hello, Cat converters plug up when raw fuel collects inside them and ignites. The heat can be RED HOT and melts the media until it solidifies. Frequent misfiring of cylinders and long crank times are common causes.
The muffler can become restricted as well but is not nearly as common. If restricted and a backfire occurs the muffler case will distort or burst.
Have you checked fuel pressure? Changed the fuel filter recently?
Are the clamps tight on the air inlet tube to the throttle body? That pop at 3250 RPM could be caused by unmetered air getting into the intake without going by a Mass Airflow Sensor. Unmetered air messes up fuel mixture.
Roger
Roger -
To close this question please click on OK to finish up. Or, just tell me what you need that will help.
1988 Chev Camaro IROC Ignition System Chugging When accelerating Always
New User Asked -
It seems like it doesn't want to advance. I can start it and it is fine i put it into gear and take off and suddenly its backfireing and no power. And about that time the check light comes on. I can turn it off and wait a min. or two and 50% of the time it runs fine again untill the next time i drive it.
Bruce Kit -
Do you know how to check for codes without a scanner?
New User -
not really... no
Bruce Kit -
On the diag connector below the strg column, are two rows of terminals, under the cover (most covers missing)On the top row,connect the two on RH ("A""B") with a small jumper wire (I use a paper clip).Then turn key on (not start-just the "run") position.The check engine light will then start flashing a sequence.Watch for a pattern IE: five flashes then three flashes would be code 53. You may get more than one code. When the codes are displayed, they will repeat over and over again. Record the numbers and let me know.
Bruce
Bruce Kit -
Most GM's flash code "12" which is the system test code. "12" is one flash followed by two flashes.
The codes after that are the ones we are looking for.
Bruce
1987 Iroc Z-28 with 305-5 speed, engine code F tuned port injection. Sat. put in water pump, next day ran great. Next day wounldn't start, cranks over very well, ck'd spark-plenty, 20 minutes later started right up. Ran excellant for 1 week. Then same thing happened-wouldn't start. Next day started right up. 2 weeks again no problems. Won't start now. What I have done so far--ck'd all fuses, changed fuel relay switch, ck'd fuel in fuel rail-no fuel. Had hand held diagnostic tool-read zero volts to fuel pump. Put in new fuel pump and sending unit. Still won't start. I am getting a reading from the sending unit telling me how much gas I have. What did I miss? What else can I check?
Bruce Kit -
If you back track the pump positive wiring, you will see it goes to an oil press. sensitive switch. The purpose of it, is if you wrap it around a telephone pole and get knocked out, you do not really want the pump to continue pumping gas?
If I remember correctlt, GM used a connection on the front of engine for the ground, the thermostat hsg bolt comes to mind.
If you do not have one already, the HAYNES shop manuals have a great woring diagram for your car.
Nice car, by the way! I have an '89 with the rare trunklid option!
1987 Chev Camaro IROC Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
Temperature guage will not work,it does clear itself at start up,then stays reading
cold,it seems to read after i shut car off.
I have replaced both sending units,one on
side of block and one on intake manifold,
also put another guage in and checked fuse
at fuse terninal under dash.
Bruce Kit -
You might want to check a few other things, such as is the rad fan staying on,or the thermostat staying open? Maybe the engine is staying cold?There are three sensors, one for the rad fan, one for the computer, another for the guage.
New User -
the engine does not stay cold and the rad
fan comes on and goes off, as it should.
the the thermostat is working properly.
Bruce Kit -
Check the ground circuits under the dash.
If you do not have a wiring diagram, pickup a HAYNES shop manual ($15)as they have good diagrams.
New User -
I have a haynes shop manual,covers year model
82-91 most wiring is on 83/84 year models
I have done some more research and i am told
of a voltage regulator for the temp guage,
do you know of this.I think i need a chev
wiring expert,who deals with this sort of
thing often.
bamaredneck -
ground the wire to sensor at block and see if gauge pegs out if so replace sensor new or not they can still be fauly if it doesnt then gauge or wiring is bad
I need power power and ground distribution wiring diagrams having to do with the ECM. I have no communication with scanner and no power at ALDL. Fuses are good. I put another ECM in it, not help. This car is a basket case as far as the wiring goes but the owner wants to fix it. It does have a brand new crate motor in it and it does run if you shoot gas in the intake. It has no injector pulse and fuel pump relay kicks out in 5 seconds.
macconeck -
What engine do you have
New User -
5.7 multi-port injection. It has the corvette engine.
macconeck -
Give me a email address that I can email the info to you
New User -
[redacted]
macconeck -
I will send you the info for the corvette engine of that year and the midsize car for that year which will cover the camaro.the chassis and engine schematics let me know when you get them.
New User -
Great!!!!!
macconeck -
did you get the info?
New User -
yes do you have a pin-out for the ALDL
macconeck -
The pinout for the ALDL connection on these cars is as follows:
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
For ALDL connections, pin 9 is the data stream, pins 4 and 5 are ground and pin 16 is battery voltage.
Additional vehicle-specific diagnostic and control circuits are available on this connector.
For instance, on the Corvette there are interfaces for the Class 2 serial data stream from the PCM, the CCM diagnostic terminal, the radio data stream, the airbag system, the selective ride control system, the low tire pressure warning system and the passive keyless entry system.
This concerning the corvette chassis should not concern you .
WE WERE GETING CODE FOR MASS AIR SENSOR SO WE REPLACED BUT NOW AS PREVIOUS TOO - HAVE TO FLOOR THE ACCELERATOR TO GET IT TO START AND THEN PLAY TO KEEP FUEL HIGH TO KEEP IT GOING - RUNS FAIRLY WELL AFTER WARM UP. WHAT IS GOING ON?
Roger -
Hello, Which code did you get for the MAF Sensor please?
Roger
New User -
WE TOOK THE CAR TO A LOCAL MECHANIC AND HE DID NOT SAY IM SORRY - HE SAID WHEN HE PLACED THE NEW MAS IN THE CAR SEEMED TO RUN OK BUT THEN HE LET THE CAR SET FOR TWO HOURS AND HAD TROUBLE STARTING IT.
Roger -
You should have a parts/workmanship warranty on his repair efforts. Hold him accountable.
Roger
New User -
WOULD SOMETHING TRIP THE MAS LIKE POSS A BAD VACUUM HOSE? WHAT TALKS TO THE MAs? is there a cold switch regarding the tpinject sys?
Roger -
The Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) is in the air duct between the air filter and the throttle body. It measures the volume of air passing through the air duct on its way to the engine.
The car's ECM monitors the sensor's signal and adjusts fuel mixture to meet the volume of air for optimum air/fuel mixture. MAF Sensors are electric.
If the engine has a vacuum leak then air is being sucked into the engine's intake maniold without going through the MAF Sensor to be measured. This is referred to as "unmetered air" and results in an incorrect air/fuel mix.
Loose clamps on the air intake duct will also cause unmetered air and effect engine performance. I see this often when someone has recently changed the air filter and left one or more clamps loose to aide removal next time.
The fuel mix during warm up for the TPI engine is set during "open loop" mode by the signal the ECM monitors produced by the coolant temp sensor. (Not a cold switch)
Roger
New User -
what is your best guess as to why car cant start after replacing mas air sensor? i know could be many things but is there something common going on? - could it be the ecm has to be replaced ?
New User -
is that the same coolant temp sensor that triggers the fans to come on by the radiador?
Roger -
Yes, there is only the one coolant temp sensor.
Have you verified spark and fuel pressure? Is the exhaust restricted and making it hard for the engine to breathe?
I'm not ready to fault the ECM yet. Not many actually fail.
Roger
New User -
THANKS SO MUCH FOR YOUR INPUT - YOU HAVE BEEN A BIG HELP - TOM 5-31-09 I WILL SIGN OFF NOW - THANKS AGAIN.
Roger -
To close the question please click on OK to finish up.
305 cubic inch engine-Lost the timing upper gear and engine quit.Replaced the timing set with new gears and chain from Cloyes and after install the engine fired but runs a little rough and back fires and spits when throttle is applied.I'm sure that the timing marks(or dots) on the new cam and crank gears are alligned( crank at 12-Oclock and cam at 6-Oclock .Could ther be some other problem?
Bruce Kit -
I think you might have installed the chain 1 tooth out or the distributer 180 degreees out.When I install the chain I use a straight edge then by hand, rotate the engine a few times and see if the marks line up still.
If the distributer 180 degrees out, it would show similar symptoms.Fix is easy there. Remove dist cap, and hold down. Lift dist up without turning it. Turn rotor 180, pop dist down, reinstall clamp and cap. Test.
Which part of planet you live in? I have an IROC Convert.
i have a 1986 IROC TPI with 62xxx miles, my dad sent it to the shop and had new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, iginition module, and timed, the car sat for a year now when you start it, it has a real bad misfire (sounds like under the car) smells like its running rich. i get error code 43 (EST failure) i have checked the timing it seems fine, i have replaced the ESC module, checked the ESC Knock sensor (per haynes) it tested good. Just as a test i unplugged the ESC, Knock sensor,the ESC module and the blk/and tan wire you unplug to set timing, but no change, the car also idles at around 550 rpm (per the genisis system i hooked up to it) i tried to adjust it but the screw seems to be stuck. could this problem be that the ecu is bad? cause it did not even try to correct the problem. I NEED HELP WITH THIS PROBLEM PLS.
Roger -
Hi, Did the car set all that time without being started or driven?
Have you purged old fuel out of the system? Was a fuel stabilizer added to the fuel before storage?
See if when the MAP Sensor vacuum hose is disconnected from the MAP sensor you can blow air through the tube back through the throttle body?
Roger
New User -
I started the car 2 or 3 times during that time, and i also ran all the fuel out and filled the tank back up but with no fuel treatment added, what kind should i use? blowing air back thru the vacuum what would that do in the trouble shooting process?
thanks in advance
Roger -
When a vehicle stands for long periods of time it is advisable to add a fuel stabilizer such as STAYBIL available at Wal-Mart automotive dept.
Blowing air back through the vacuum tube toward the throttle body will confirm if the vacuum port in the throttle body is open or blocked. If blocked the MAP sensor will not receive vacuum.
At wide open throttle there is virtually no vacuum in the intake manifold or in throttle body. The MAP sensor tells the computer to enrich the fuel mixture.
When vacuum is blocked at idle and the MAP sensor "thinks" the engine is under hard acceleration the enriched fuel mixture causes rough running and heavy exhaust fumes.
Roger
New User -
Thanks i will do that, but what about the timing problem and misfire, any advise about that? should i set the timing again just to be sure? could the ECU be bad? is there any way to check that?
thank in advance
Roger -
If you had the benefit of a scanner you could monitor the feedback that the sensors are sending to your car's computer. That would help identify the problem as the computer sees it.
There is no field test for the ECU. I have fought that hole in the automotive system for decades.
Setting the timing again before the engine runs properly might tend to work against you. Timing will not likely be the cause of a misfire.
Have you removed the spark plugs to see if they are fuel fouled? Perhaps you'll come across the cylinder that has the problem. A misfire let go too long will damage the catalytic converter.
1985 Chev Camaro IROC Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
Are there any fuses or circuit breakers between the ignition switch and the starter?
Everything was fine. Parked, went to start next day and it wont start. It acts as if trying to start in drive. I located t5he switch next to the shaft leaver, I believe I can hear the micro switch click when it is going into park. I will pull the switch and check it. But is there anything else I should be looking for?
Thanks Dave
Bruce Kit -
The shifter has a switch,(neutral safty switch), that seems to either have failed or come out of adjustment.The mounting screws are on a slotted hole. Try to adjust first then replace if that does not work.
The fact that it is attempting to start in gear tells me the circuits are fine.Ensure battery fully charged.
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