Chev Camaro Z-28

2000 Chev Camaro Z-28 Engine Dimming Happens always Always

All lighting on the car flickers or pulses when running including Alt gauge. Sometimes it stops when I accelerate full thottle. Alt. checks fine. Battery fine. Just replaced belt and tensioner pulley. Still flickering. Noticed crankshaft pulley slightly wobbling. Is that possable. Car has 74,000 miles and holds good oil pressure. Do I have a serious problem and are thay connected. Thanks.

Hello, Look and see if you have a battery negative cable connected from the car battery to the car body as well as one to the engine block or frame.

Check for proper ground connection between the engine block and the car's body. This type ground is often a braided copper strap.

The alternator has an internal voltage regulator. If it is turning on/off rapidly the voltage pulse could be the result.

How was the alternator checked? On or off the car? What voltage reading does it produce? Is it a steady reading on the test instrument?

A slight wobble is not unusual for the crankshaft pulley. I doubt there is a problem with it.

The car's problem is an electrical one. If when you looked at the ground connections no problem is found I would suspect the alternator is the source.

Roger

The pulsing has been an on going problem since the day I drove it of the lot 2 years ago. I asked the dealer to check it out. They said the grounds were fine and the Alternator was fine. I have since checked the grounds myself and they are good. I may have been wasting my time but I also pulled every fuse I could that would not kill the engine one at a time to no avail. Thanks you for your advice. I will be looking into a new alternator. My main concern was with the pulley. If you don't fore see any major problems from a slight wobble then I will leave it alone. Thanks again

Charlie.

I haven't seen the minor wobble on your particular crankshaft pulley. If anything were a real concern there would be a noise of some sort that would go away when the engine is run without the belt installed.

A second thought about the pulley wobble would have priority if there were problems keeping a serpentine belt running without damage to the belt.

Get a local second opinion on the alternator's performance. Realize that if this pulsing of voltage keeps up an electronic component may fail from a voltage spike somewhere in the future.

What else may I help you with?

Roger

Your advice has been very helpful. The peace of mind that I now have knowing that I talked to someone that is a pro is well worth the money spent.

Thanks again Roger.

Charlie

Thank you! Your satisfaction is what I strive to achieve.

To accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me, please click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

Try us again,

Roger

ASE Certified
Master Technician

1998 Chev Camaro Z-28 Fuel System Won't Start  

when it runs out of gas it won't start even when priming by turning the key on and off several times ,also when pushing or pulling it off .this has happehed 2 times but was able to get it started by pulling it off in reverse the first.i checked the relay swicth at the ceveolet comp. they said it was good.the wiring diagrams don't seem to match up from book for relay .could you please give us some feedback

Could you clarify what you mean by "by pulling it off in reverse the first"?

You are on the right track trying to check for available voltage to the pump. One other thing to consider is the pump gets hot when you run out of gas. It may be shutting down. Sometimes a few hits to the fuel tank with a rubber mallet (don't use anything that can create sparks or damage the tank) will get the pump going again.

Avoid running low on gas. The fuel in the tank actually cools the pump. When you are low on fuel damage to the pump can occur. Many aftermarket fuel pumps die the first time they are overheated.


Higlight, Edit, Copy, and Paste the following link into your Address bar. This is a free online repair guide for your car.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=beginRepairGuide

Note- Wiring diagrams are listed under
"Chassis Electrical" .

how would we know if the fuel pump has burned up my husband has tried everthing been working on it for 2 days

First off he needs to verify there is spark to the spark plugs.
If there is he needs to check fuel pressure. Or at the very least listen to see if the fuel pump is running (do this while the engine is cranking). If the fuel pump does not run and the car ran out of gas there is a good chance the pump is bad. To determine if the pump is bad check for available voltage to the pump with the engine cranking. If voltage is available to the pump and you don't have fuel pressure (or can't hear it run) the pump is bad.
Once again only chase the fuel pump is there IS spark to the spark plugs."

1997 Chev Camaro Z-28 Fuel System   

97 z28 lt1 oscillates at idle after the engine is hot on hot days. Will die if gas is not applied. wise runs perfectly, no codes being thrown. no lifter noise, no smoke on start, full power runs fine. Had a EGR problem in 01 but fixed.

Remove the Air intake hose at the throttle body. Get some "Air Intake Cleaner: (similar but not the same as Carb Cleaner)
Spray liberally inside throttle body with throttle in wide open position (not running though)Also spray the Idle Air Sensor also.
Every engine has various amounts of blowby past the rings and you would be suprised at the anount of gunk that builds up in there!
The throttle body can be safely removed for this procedure for more thorough job.I usually use up the entire can.The gunk on the walls, acumilates droplets of fuel which are not finely atomized and give surging idle. At higher RPM, it goes away because the airspeed (velocity) is greater.

1995 Chev Camaro Z-28 Engine   

Hello sir/ma am, i was driving down the road (1995 Camaro Z28) and all of a sudden my car died. oil pressure and rpms were at 0 and i glided into a parking lot. The oil pump looks good, starter, alternator and battery. check engine light is not on and all the fuses are good. She sounds ok when i try to start it, but it doesnt start. Any ideas? (she has an LT1 V-8 engine) thanks. =A...

Sounds like the electric fuel pump.
Two simple tests can be done.
1)When key is turned on, you should hear a hum from rear of car.You might remove gas cap to hear better.
2)On the engine, find the fuel line and the test port.(it looks like a tire valve stem, with a cap)See if there is fuel press at that location.
Assuming, of course, it is not low on gas!

hi bruce!

thanks for replying, but i meant to say the fuel pump not the oil pump looks good...i hear the hum from the pump and everything, and she has a 1/4 tank of gas..

?

even though u hear the pump it can still be bad need to check pressure also is there spark at plugs

1995 Chev Camaro Z-28 Ignition System   

my 1995 z28 six speed pings in all gears below 2000 rpms. when cold started going through 1st-3rd at below 2000 rpms, its fine for about two short blocks.then the pinging starts. i'v changed; fuel filter, oil and filter,plugs and wires. the distributor,cap and rotor are less than one year old. fuel pressure has been checked. egr valve has been checked and cleaned,when tested it stalled the engine. no codes are showing up.maf sensor has been replaced.the motor has 50,000 miles on it.

Hi, You haven't said anything about what grade fuel you are using?

Is this car late enough production that is has OBD II diagnostics? I wondered is the PCM could be flashed with an update?

Back later,

Roger

i,m using 93-94 octane.a mechanic suggested putting octane booster in-he thought maybe wrong grade was put in. it has obd I .also it idles fine 850-900 rpm. i,m assuming the pcm(chip ?)is bad. if so, are there anyother tests to comfirm? if it needs to be replaced,is it a dealership reprogram ? thanks

No, if it is OBD I there is no programming to be done if the PCM is replaced. I don't think you need a PCM.

There may be a timing issue....are you operating in high altitude?

Roger

1995 Chev Camaro Z-28 Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Old car thought alarm had died a long time ago. All of a sudden if you open the door the four way flashers start and tapping like alarm is on (horn wire cuts years ago), stops after a few minute rearms and doesn it three times until uou open the door again. How do I STOP this disarm it. Dont care if disarm is permanent. Tried swicth under dash pushed to left and right and NOTHING. If I drive it'll stop after doing this 2-3 times as long as I dont open the door again its ok/ Car starts drives doors dopnt lock but 4 way flashers go on and tapping like alarm is working without cut horn Is there a fuse I can pull without messing anything else up or a wire I can cut what HELP

Hello
In your case I would find the alarm system box on this car usually under dash driver side and just disconnect it than try it. Alarm systems are a little tricky but disconnecting this one shouldnt affect anythink.
Heavychevy

1994 Chev Camaro Z-28 Ignition System Hesitating When accelerating When warm 

i think my distributor may be bad. i got my car detailed and the engine sprayed. the next day my car started hesitating during acceleration (when warm). one mechanic told me it was the knock sensor and the other said it is my distibutor. i dont know who to believe

Was there a trouble code that led them to believe these may be the problem, like a code for ESC?

Was the engine hesitating or actually misfiring?

What have you tried so far?

1994 Chev Camaro Z-28 Engine Chugging When idling When warm 

Engine idle goes up and down when warm and surges

Check for vacuum leaks or bad air flow sensor.

1994 Chev Camaro Z-28 Electrical / Lighting Systems Hesitating When accelerating Always

my 94 camaro z28 (lt1 engine) is running really rought. When you press the accelerator the car runs hard but gets no pick up, it hesitates really bad. Once it gets up to speed it drops down again and hesitates (while driving) if you come to a hill, a slow down, or a stop and go again. I have changes the plugs, mass air flow sensor, thermostat (overheated once). Also, I have lost half my gas mileage. No engine lights come on, but my coolant light is continuously on (coolant levels are fine). any suggestions? Could this be my O2 sensor? if so, where is it located and how many do I have?
Thanks for any help,
Lisa

oh by the way, I had a small hole in the intake bellows duct... sealed that but it did not help the problem either...

If you are not getting a CHECK ENGINE light then it is not an emissions issue. I'm surprised at all the parts you have changed. Who suggested those parts?

Have you tested the fuel pressure? What is it? How old is the fuel filter? Are you sure that all cylinders have spark? Have you looked for vacuum leaks?

Did this happen all at once? Did you just buy fuel?

Please advise,

Roger

community forums suggested that it could be an "air issue" and to change the mass air sensor. The plugs were changed because I did not know when the car was last serviced (no history was available) Some needed changing, but most were still okay. I had the transmission serviced as well to make sure it was not slipping,that was not the problem either. I dont' know what the fuel pressure is or how to check it. I dont know if the cylinders are all firing correctly either. A friend mentioned it could be my fuel injectors...I don't really know anything about cars and how they run and my husband has tried what he knows. Should I take it to a dealer and have diagnostics done on it? When I bought it and filled it for the first time, it was leaking gas out the gas cap. I had it checked and they said I needed a new gas cap, so I got one...no more leaking gas! I have noticed that when I take the cap off for a fill, alot of vapors release...is this normal as well? could this be causing problems with the enging running horribly? Sorry this is long... I hope I have answered your questions...

Vapors releasing when you start to remove the gas cap is common and expected.

Do you have a fuel pressure test gauge? There is a valve cap on the fuel rail. It looks like a tire valve cap. That is the place to attach a fuel pressure test gauge. If you do this be careful as fuel will spray out when you connect and when you disconnect a test gauge. There is a risk of a fire if the engine is hot and fuel can get on your skin or in your eyes.

Is this car a recent purchase? You ststed you do noy know the history...

Another cause of very rough idle and hesitation is an EGR valve stuck open. Will your husband check that?

Is this LT1 engine still factory stock? Or have performance enhancements been added?

I hesitate to recommend driving the car to a shop when it runs so bad. I worry that the catalytic converter is getting saturated with unburned fuel. How do you want to proceed? We need a scanner (not a code reader) to check some computer monitored parameters.

Roger

This is a recent purchase. The car idles fine, no skipping or anything like that..just driving it is the issue. It revs fine when you give it gas in neutral and lets down when you step off the gas. The engine is all factory stock, no enhancements at all. My husband will check the fuel pressure another day as he does not have a gauge at home. He said he does not know what an EGR valve is. I guess putting it on the computer might be our only option at this point. A mechanic shop is at the end of our street and there is a car dealer just up the road. Also, my husband unplugged the O2 sensor and the CHECK ENGINE light still did not come on.

1993 Chev Camaro Z-28 Ignition System Won't Start When starting Always

replaced optispark, car ran for about ten minutes and it completely shut off. tryed to restart it but it would not start. started to check ignition system. checked ignition switch, checked key switch because of the vats system in this car. wires were not broken. checked pcm,crank, injector, and ignition fuses. all getting power. pulled off injector pigtails, placed a noid light in it. no injector pulse. so changed pcm, still have same problem, cranks but will not start.

Hello, Check and see if you are getting a Crankshaft Sensor pulse. Without it the PCM has no idea the engine is cranking.

Do you need a wiring diagram for the engine? If so I'll need to know what engine and your email address.

Roger

Hi, Any news here? Just checking in with you...

Roger

1993 Chev Camaro Z-28 All Part Groups   

Hi,

I have a 93 camaro z-28 that has been siting for over a year. It ran "ok" when I parked it there but now I can not get it to start. I put a new battery in it and the car gets juice and sound like it about to turn over and start but never does. I put new gas and dry gas into the car but still did not help. I sprayed ether into the air filter and then the car ran but only for a few seconds and then stopped. How do I diagnos and fix this problem? Could it be the fuel filter and if so, where is it located? It's parked down the shore, by the water, so not sure if the salt air made things worse.

I am sure that it is fuel related
The best thing to do is to check if you know that there is fuel in the tank
you will want to do a fuel pressure test
it should be at about 33 to 40 psi
there is a port on the right side of the fuel rail.

How do I test the fuel pressure? What tool do I need and how much does it cost? Is there another way I can trouble shoot this? I put some extra fuel in the tank already along with dry gas but it didn't start. Could it be a clogged fuel filter?

the only way to tell would be to do a fuel pressur test.
what size engine do you have?
I can give you the details on how to test for pressure.

It is a Z-28, 350 cu in (5.7 liter)

for the fuel injected engine the pressure should be at about 41-47 PSI(Pounds per Square Inch)you need to purchase a tester from a auto parts store.
There will be a port on the side of the fuel rail that resembles a air valve stem that is the outlet fuel pressure relief valve.

1993 Chev Camaro Z-28 All Part Groups   

I have a 1993 camaro z28 with 13,000 miles. the car cranks but won't start battery is fully charged, replaced the control module, coil and fuel pump relay(pump does come on when ignition is on). and replaced the fuel filter. i'm in dark what else do i need to check. optispark?. and is there a fuel pump fuse? thanks chuck

Hello, Have you checked for spark? Power to the fuel injectors with the key on? All fuses good?

There is a fuel pump fuse but you said the pump comes on when turning on the key.....fuse and relay for the fuel pump should be all right.

Check for spark at more than one plug wire. If none, check for spark where the coil wire enters the distributor cap.

Please advise,

Roger

haven't checked for spark yet but would the distributor be prone to going bad on a car with that many miles
chuck

The distributor could have a bad rotor if the coil sparks to the cap but spark does not reach the plugs.

When an engine cranks but won't start the basic start diagnosis calls for verifying fuel and spark first.

Roger

1993 Chev Camaro Z-28 Fuel System   

I Stored my Z for 2yrs. Full tank w/stabilizer. Put in a new battery. It turned over fine but would not fire. Put in a new set of Injectors and it started right up,ran fine for 35 sec. Put test gauge on rail and have 0 pressure. Very costly to change fuel pump in tank. Could it be the RELAY? Do not hear the buzz.Will an inline pump for EFI pull the gas through the old pump? Summit has a EFI stand alone pump to do the whole job. what do you think. I need options!!!
Thanks Edward

Hello,

If you are able to change the pump yourself, you can save significantly. Occasionally you can find a quality pump for a great deal on ebay.

The quickest way to test the relay is to swap the relay. There should be a matching relay near the fuel pump relay, from a non-vital component (ex.- A/C), that you can swap for test purposes.

Another thing to try- Take a block of wood and bang the bottom of the gas tank. Sometimes this will bring the pump back to life. This is not considered a cure, but rather proof that the pump is indeed the problem. Note- this only works sometimes, is not a technical method.

Last things first- Are you sure you have spark to the plugs? This is the first thing to check in an 'engine cranks- no start' situation.

Hey, Spark is fine. Remember fuel test gauge is 0 pressure. Not pumping. Do you think an inline pump can get gas through the old pump?

No. Do you think you can remove the old pump and install a new one?

By the way, without cranking signal (spark) the computer has no reason to energize the fuel pump. That is why we must check for spark first.

You make a good point, I will check, Thanks

I'd guess you do have spark, just wanted to make sure. Did you try banging on the bottom of the gas tank with a block of wood?

1993 Chev Camaro Z-28 Heating / Cooling System   

My ac and defrost works just as it should in all settings but when I move the selector switch to any of the heat positions I get nothing. no blower/fan, nothing...just like its off completely. any ideas?..

Hi, Pull the controlhead and look at the connectors on the back. Look for burned or heat damaged terminals.

Please advise,

Roger

hi, i already did that, it all looks good. i was thinking of checking the opposite end of the vaccum lines next though..

I just had another thought, the back of that switch has the vaccum line connector and a plug with 3 contacts. I noticed that the plug can actually be plugged in both ways...do you think its possible that it just need to be turned around? I dont think thats it as all the other positions (except for the 2 heat ones) work perfectly.

The main switch looks sort of like a piano. I'm thinking this switch has problems. You said that the fan quits when selecting heat.

When the system is set on heat will air from outside come in through the heat ducts if the car is moving? If so the doors and actuators are likely all right.

Seems the issue is to get the fan going on all speeds in heat too. I agree that the connector that can be flipped is not the cause.

Roger

i didnt check it while driving the car so i dont know about the air flow, but i will try that...about the switch being bad itself, I already replaced that to rule that out.im getting from your response's that you dont think it is vaccum related or a problem with the blower itself, correct?

Nothing I am aware of concerning the presense of or distribution of vacuum to the door actuators speaks to whether or not the fan motor runs.

If you need a wiring diagram please advise your email address.

I'm going to look for one right now.

Roger

thats whats puzzling me. because is the fan works for the ac you would think it would work for the heat. but like i said when i switch to heat i get nothing. i dont even heat any doors or ducks changing position or anything. i have a haynes manual so that should have the diagram, but my email is [redacted] maybe your diagram might be different or more easier to follow...thanks..by the way..later today i will check the flow of air with the car moving...car only has 18k miles on it by the way...thanks again

I'll be back with a diagram from the Mitchell 1 Auto Repair Data Base. I have to go into town to access this data base but it is most always a worthwhile effort.

Roger

Hi Roger,
I drove the car today and yes i fell a slight flow off air as you asked about before. also I paid close attention to what each position on the switch is actually doing and I found that when I have the switch in the "mix ac" postion it comes out on the floor position exclusivly and blows hot like it should. but again as soon as i switch it to either of the 2 heat positions everything shuts off. so to summerize the switch works as follows; max air works, air works, mix air functions as floor heat, mix heat shuts off, floor heat shuts off, mix defrost works and defrost works. this leads me to think it could be the switch but again I have 2 switches and they both do the same thing. Im baffled.

what goes on on the other end of those vaccum lines? you think it something on that end?

The vacuum lines other than Black in color each run to a different door actuator. One for mode, one for defrost, one for recirculating air door...not related to fan at all.

The wiring diagram should be here soon.

Roger

ok, thanks

Finally after having to completely reinstall my scanner/printer/fax I can get the email done for you. The wiring diagram is tough to see. Tell me what you think.

Roger

thanks, i can read it...Ill play with it some tomorrow and see if i find anything.thanks

Many thanks for your patience.

Roger

thanks roger, with a test light i should get juice on all 3 points on that piano plug we tlaked about, correct?

With the selector switch in HEAT there should be power coming into the piano plug on the Brown wire terminal C. Power should flow through the switch and come out on the Lt Green wire terminal B. Power then flows on this Lt Green wire to the blower speed switch connector terminal E to power the fan motor.

Terminal A of the piano switch connector has no power when the selector switch is set to heat.

Rog

that makes it easy, thanks...ill check it and let you know..thanks

If when you test this piano switch with the selector switch set to heat there is no power found on the Lt Green wire but there is power on the Brown wire you can believe the piano switch is defective.

Roger

ok, thanks, I am going to try and troubleshoot this tomorrow. I will let you know the outcome...thanks for all your help..

You are welcome. No pressure from me. I only want to help.

Roger

Hi Rojer,
I did the test with the test light and sure enough I dont get anything out of the light green wire (or the contact on the piano switch) when im in the heat or vent position. on all the other positions I get juice. I just cant believe that I have 2 switches with the same problem. yes they are both used,but whats the odds. I have a question for you: 1: do you think if I go to chevy and buy a new one that I may have a problem that is just gonna blow that part of the switch again? Paul

No, I doubt a new part from GM or even a national auto parts chain store will fail due to some condition present on the car outside of the switch.

Chances remain high when a used part is substituted for a new one the used part could have enough wear to have the same failure as the original. This could be due to wear, age, or a design weakness.

Roger

thanks again roger, I pick up the new switch on monday. will update you on how it goes...paul

Thanks, I'll check back.

R

Hi Roger,
Well I got the brand new switch from chevy and much to my dismay it made no difference. still have the same problem. I cant understand what the hell it could be at this point. I have 3 switches, the 18k original,boneyard special and a brand new one from chevy all doing the same exact thing. if you can come up with anything else, please let me know...thanks for all your help. Paul

Yikes! I sure didn't expect that. I'll study the wiring diagram again.

Roger

neither did i...I thought it was gonna be a go.....and then the wind left my sails..

Paul, Do you have a continuity tester?

What is the condition of the terminals inside the connectors that plug into this piano shaped switch? Any signs of heat damage?

With one of the switches that is not installed can you verify continuity between the terminal where the Brown wire would connect and the terminal where the Lt Green wire would connect? Continuity should exist in ALL positions of the switch except OFF.

Can you verify that the control knob moves the switch full travel without slipping on the shaft?

Roger

hi roger , the knob is good, I didnt notice anything wrong with the connectors and i beleive they are good because when the selector switch is in any of the other positions i get juice through all 3 . as for testing for continuity,i will check that out tomorrow...thanks again..

Meantime I think I'll try my luck at finding another source for a wiring diagram and compare to what we have.

Roger

Roger,
I have no continuity on all 3 switches when im in the vent or heat position. all other positions do...I know this shows that the switches (all 3) are bad. unless there is some twisted explanation in the way gm has this thing wired???Im bringing back the new switch right now and im hoping they can order me up a fresh one...let me know if you can come up with anything else...thanks paul

I'm still looking for an answer...

Roger

just got back from chevy, I will have a new switch tomorrow afternoon. I will check the switch for continuity right there at the dealership.If it tests bad im just gonna stab myself in the chest with the positive lead of my multimeter and be done with it...ha-ha...I asked the parts guy (who has been there for 30years) if knows of any problem history with these switchs and he didnt give up any info. I also have been unable to find anything on the web about a history with it either. this is making me think that for some reason my car is eating these switches although i cant find true logic in that either. but tomorrow will tell the tale, if the switch tests good prior to install and then tests bad afterwards...im back to square one...

This is quite a learning process for me as well. Do you have a rapor with your Chevy Dealer Service Dept. Manager?

Will he provide you a GM wiring diagram for your car's HVAC System? That would be sweet.

Roger

Ill try, but I doubt it. they dont give up much down there.

I'll see if I have a willing source here. It won't be today.

Roger

Hi Roger,
you ready? I got another new one from chevy today and it tested then same as all the others. This leads me to beleive that this car must be wired in a way that the heat comes on with some how by vacum. because if juice isnt flowing out of the switch when in the heat position how else could it? and when I look at the mitchell repair diagram this may actually be supported. if you notice the line is broken between the vent and heat positions, but the ac and defrost postions are connected. I think what I am gonna try next is the part that connects the vacum lines to the back of the switch. although it appears to be strictly a mechanical part it does have several metal contacts on it that maybe making the connection somehow...ill let you know if i hit pay dirt...im not holding my breathe though...Paul

Paul, Take another look at the wiring diagram and let me guide you.

The switch is drawn showing two seperate arrows both pointing to the OFF position.

As the switched is moved through the different modes both arrows move in parallel the same number of contact points from left to right.

When the left arrow is on VENT, HEAT, or HTR/DEF..... if you follow the power feed coming from the HVAC fuse to the switch terminal C (via the Brown wire) you will note that the left arrow of the switch does not have a complete circuit. No power goes (backwards) through the left arrow and out of the switch on terminal A Dk Green/White wire to the ECM.

The artist wants you to realize this if the part of the control switch that switches vacuum to the different door actuators and determines when the A/C compressor is needed.

But if you follow the right arrow of the switch you'll note that the power to the switch coming in on the Brown wire at terminal C is shown to be a complete circuit through the right arrow (backwards) in every switch position except OFF. This is the power feed to the blower motor speed switch as it flows through the Lt Green wire loop between terminals B & E of the piano board switch.

Depending on the position of the fan speed switch you can see how power goes through the resistors to lower the voltage, or through the High Blower Relay for full speed of the blower motor.

In short, there should be some amount of voltage sent to the blower motor no matter where the right arrow of the switch is unless it is in the OFF position.

If you look at what the fan speed switch powers when in the HI speed position you can see that all it does is send power to energize the High Blower Relay. When this is the case the power to run the blower motor at full speed comes from Fuse Link A (Rust color) through the High Blower Relay and then on to the blower motor. The HVAC Fuse does not power the blower motor when the fan spped switch is on Hi....just the relay.

Verify the colors of the wires to the switch connector terminal letters for each wire.

Take your time to burn through all I've said. It should help you better understand the design of the system.

Rethink the points where you are testing for voltage and/or continuity. Perhaps you are checking the left arrow of the switch when what we need to know is what is happening with the right arrow of the switch?

Roger

Hi roger,
Ok you cleared up my confusion about the 2 arrows in the diagram, thanks.but in the end it still only gives me the 3 points to check for continuity on the switch, which is where the plug connects, so i dont see how i could mess that up. I agree that based on the diagram (and common sense) there has to be continuity through that switch in the heat position for it to work, but 4 switchs now all test the same??? Im at a loss...the service manager at chevy was useless also, he tried to give me some nonsense about a "body control Module" but Im not buying it. I dont see anything like that in the diagram...Ill check the wires again, but they all have juice and do what they are suppose to in the other positions so i dont get how they can have a problem either.

HI roger,
You were right, I was checking for continuity between the wrong spots, so the switches are all good afterall...this made me realize that the piano plug was indeed reversed as i suspected early one...so its fixed, I have heat....yessssssssss....thanks again for all you time and diligence on this one, hopefully i wont need to, but if i do, ill be back...

That should do it Paul. Thanks for the business. To close this question please click on OK to finish up. Good job, sir!

I thank you,

Roger

1991 Chev Camaro Z-28 Fuel System Stalling When starting Always

Can't seem to figure out the problem with my 91 z-28 with TPI. Turns over, but too low an idle, doesn't stay running. Replaced fuel filter. Tested the fuel pressure (at 40+), it's okay. Checked fuses. Full tank of gas, no leaks. Did the 91 Camaro's have a crank position sensor and if so, could that be the problem?

First off we need clarification on the idle. Is the problem the idle is dropping so low that the engine can't run. Or the engine won't run at normal idle speed?
A quick way to determine this is to press slightly on the gas pedal... will it idle at normal rpms or do you have to rev it to higher than normal rpms for it to run?

Will stall at normal RPMs. Pressing down on the gas peddle doesn't help the matter, still stalls, doesn't increase the RPMS. Basically, I turn the ignition, it starts, goes putt, putt, putt... stall. Seems to be gas is not getting to the right place, but when I used the gas pressure guage, gas came through, so it's not a pump issue, I don't think.

To answer your question a bit better - very low idle, but attempting to engage the gas peddle does not deliver any gas to the engine to increase the idle.

Sorry I have been trying to post back to you but keep having internet problems.

No problem. To add a follow-up question, would the timing chain cause this problem if it is off?

Timing chain is possible, but a a bigger possibility if there is backfiring, spitting, etc.

Still having trouble... hopefully this goes through.

Have you checked troublecodes (all you need is a paperclip)? This is a good starting point.

If you visit autozone.com they offer free repair guides for your car. Fill out YR Make MOdel Eng to register your car.
From the repair guide you'll find instructions for retrieving trouble codes. Let me know what you find.

I'd give you a direct link to the info but I can't stay online long enough to load the pages.

I am back online. Here is a direct link to the repair guide for you car.

Highlit, Edit, Copy, and Paste this link into your Address bar.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/16/39/5e/[redacted] 395e.jsp

1986 Chev Camaro Z-28 Drive Train / Driveline Slipping Happens sometimes Always

My gear shifter slips out of 1st gear as I accelerate. I must hold the shifter in place and sometimes on inclines It'll slip but catch. This causes the car to lurch and buck. If I just let off the clutch the shifter will pop into neutral. Only in 1st gear it does not slip out in any other gear.

hi sounds like a bad synchronizer on first gear.it's an internal problem, and transmisson will have to be rebuilt.
good luck
les

1985 Chev Camaro Z-28 Engine Failing  When warm 

car will not pass e-chech because of high n-o

Hi,
High Nitrous Oxides comes from an internal combustion temperature higher than 2500*F. This can be caused by a wide combination of things. I will list the common causes in the order most likely. EGR problem, bad catalytic converter, overheating engine, timing advanced too much, fuel mixture too lean, carbon buildup in combustion chamber.
Hope this helps!
Dale

1983 Chev Camaro Z-28 Ignition System Won't Start When starting 

WHILE REPLACING THE SPARK PLUG CABLES ON MY CAR I GOT TWO OR THREE OF THE CABLES MISPLACED GOING INTO THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP, AND NOW THE ENGINE WILL NOT FIRE UP. PLEASE HELP ME TO RESOLVE THIS PROBLEM BY E-MAIL SHOWING A DIAGRAM OF THE SPARK PLUG CONNECTIONS LEADING INTO THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP ON A CHEVY 305 CARBURATED ENGINE IN A NUMBERED SEQUENCE

Hello, The firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 clockwise and starting with the #1 that should be visible on the distributor cap at the bottom of one of the plug wire connection towers. A "1" is a raised number moulded when the cap is made.

Cylinders are numbered driver's side front-to-back 1-3-5-7. Passenger side front-to-back 2-4-6-8.

If you stil need a drawing, please advise your FAX number.

Roger

1968 Chev Camaro Z-28 Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving Always

I have a 68 Camaro Z28 with the RS option which includes the vacuum operated headlight doors, which is where my problem is. I have been looking for a vacuum hose diagram for the car and can only find one for a 69.Will the 69 hose routing diagram work for my 68?

I would believe both year 1968 & 1969 would use the same routing. Have you tried it?

Diagrams for these cars can be hard to find. Have you tried your local public library? Are there any Classic Car Clubs in your area that may be able to help?

Restoration parts supply companies such as YEAR ONE may have info you could use, too. A Google search for classic car parts should give you a number of places to try.

What will be the best way to help you?

Roger

It has been a week...how are you doing with this repair, please?

Thanks,

Roger

I got back to you last week with comments re: the vacuumheadlights on my Camaro-- don't know what happened there, something to do with hyper space I suppose.

I live and work in the Middle East and am scheduled to be home on leave in November which is the earliest I will be able to trouble-shoot the system. I have received diagrams from both Year One and Classic Industries and they contradict each other, hence my e-mail to you.

I'm going to trouble -shoot the system ,checking for vacuum leaks and integrity starting at the check valve, headlight switch, vacuumrelay and lastly the actuators. Tha headlight switch and the actuators are repro items and there is no doubt that they did not come from the General! I've down loaded a vacuum diagram from the internet which is for a '69 and I'll see how it goes and let you know.

Best regards
Calvin Fryer

"I did not receive last weeks message but this one came through just fine.

I believe that Year One has a tech support 800 number you can call when you get back.

I just helped a dude in Kuwait with his Plymouth minivan. Smaller world every day!

Stay safe, come home.

Roger"

Will you please update the status of this question?

Thanks,

Roger