Chev Caprice Classic

1994 Chev Caprice Classic Ignition System   

Car will run for 5 min (driving or sitting and idling) and then stops. The thermostat gasket was leaking coolant onto the ignition distributor assembly. I just, this morning, completed torquing the 2 bolts. The leak has stopped. The car will make about 5 miles at 55 MPH and then just stops. The same is true if it is idling. The car will restart in 10 - 15 minutes No dash warning lights come on. Can you suggest a solution?
regards, Larry

No dash warning lights come on while the engine is running OR the dash lights do not come on when you turn the key on when the failure is present (as they should)?

With the car engine off, when I turn the key on (but not the starter yet), the LH cluster of lights come on, Pass Key, Check Gage, Low Wiper, Low Fuel, ABS, Engine Check. In a second or two all go off encept the Check Gage and the Engine Check lights. The RH cluster has the Air Bag blink then goes off. The engine starts normally after sitting for 10- 15 min. When driving the car at hwy speeds the engine just quits with out any lights coming on, noise, shutter etc. The car then coasts to a stop, unless braking etc. If I try to start the car imediately after it has stopped the oil pressure gage and the ammeter gages "flicker"!
Hope this helps.
Larry

I should have added that after the car starts all the warning lights go off, which ,I believe is normal.
Larry

The problem is probably in the ignition system, assuming you have full power to the dash lights, etc when the problem is present.

To confirm this, check for spark to the spark plugs during the no start period.

Also let me know which engine you have so I can give further test instructions.

There is no indication of any spark while trying to start the car imediately after it has stopped. I did have the car into a Chev dealer a week ago and they found no problems (codes?). The mechanic drove the car at vaarious speeds for 70 miles. I drove the car maybe 200 miles w/o a problem after the visit. The car's very random problem has now become predictable at approx 5 min intervals. I have the 5.7 L v-8 engine.
Larry
Larry

Sorry for the delay. These use an Opti-Spark distributor (looks different than most distributors and known to fail), which is not particularly cheap (the same distributor is used on the Corvette)-- nor is the ignition module (can fail when warm/hot and function again once cooled, same as with the distributor but doesn't fail quite as often.) It would probably be best to have it retested with a scan tool.

There is also the possibility of a bad computer (usually loose solder connections) or a bad ignition switch.

All of these things can cause the car to stall just as if you turned the key off (as opposed to a chugging and/or lack of power in the case of running out of fuel (weak pump/wiring, plugging filter, etc.)

What you can do is check for bad connections at the battery, distributor/coil, grounds, etc.

An additional note:

If you have a way to safely heat or cool the ignition module this could be helpful. The idea is to heat it as hot as it normally gets in the failure period (aprox 5 minutes) OR cool it down faster than it normally does (10-15 minutes.) Cooling it down would be a much safer method. Electronics Stores (Radio Shack) sell component cooler (a product that evaporates very quickly creating a significant cooling effect.) If cooling the ignition module allows the engine to restart more quickly, it sure looks the module is the problem.

Is the ignition module the same as the IGNITION COIL MODULE,fastened together with the ignition coil, and located on the front of the engine just below the LH valve cover? I will certainly try the cooling suggestion.
If the problem is with the OPTI-SPARK distributor, is the distributor serviceable? or should I consider installing a new? or rebuilt? distributor assembly?
Could you please give me the AC Delco or GMC part numbers for the Ignition Coil Module and Distributor Assem (or a serviceable parts link).
About 60,000 miles (currently 130,000 mi)I did have a problem with the power distribution terminal- cable (from battery). The box is close to the LH firewall (facing car from front bumper). Could this be a problem source? If so do you have a part number for the plastic box including post?
Thanks,
Larry

Copy and Paste the following links into your address bar--

http://autozone.com/newGuide,yes/shopping/repairGuide.htm

This link will take you to a free online repair guide, with images and troubleshooting procedures. Note: They may not have a repair guide for you Caprice, instead select a 1995 Chevrolet Camaro or Corvette, that used the same OptiSpark distributor (with the 5.7L engine).

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=218&ptset=A&searchfor=Distributor

An aftermarket supplier for a distributor (including the AC brand.) If the above link does not work as intended, the following links should-

http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=ACD&MfrPartNumber=[redacted] &PartType=218&PTSet=A

http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=A1C&MfrPartNumber=301803&PartType=218&PTSet=A


The following link is for the ignition module-

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=194&ptset=A&searchfor=Ignition+Module%2fControl+Unit

FYI- The Partsamerica links covers parts from there and Advance Auto (there may a small geographical price difference at the brick and mortar store.)

For gm parts/numbers, visit

http://gmpartsdirect.com

I have replaced the ignition module, distributer,Waterpump (I noticed that the bearing was failing so fortunate to catch an impending failure), and the Computer(PCM). The local GM dealer programmed the comouter that I had installed. Same problem: After a couple of minutes (5) the car stops? The car can be retarted after about 5-10 min. Any ideas what I should try next? There must be some component that becomes and open circuit when the ambient temp is above 70 deg? Any ideas? The Dealer has my 94' Caprice.
Thanks, Larry

1994 Chev Caprice Classic Fuel System   

my car dies along the road after it warms up seems to be flooding out I let it set for 5 min or so and it might go for 30 miles without trouble. when I got it home, [when it was fluttering] I took off the air breather and it seemed like gas fumes coming out of the mas air flow valve or engine just befor it died.could this be the computer I've replaced egr valve o2 sensors both sides catlettic converters muffler .I cant find any code faults what next thanks Ken

Hello, There could be a problem with the fuel pressure regulator.

Look for a small cylinder attached to the fuel rail that has one vacuum line connected to it. Disconnect this vacuum line and look for raw fuel evidence. If you find raw fuel replace the fuel pressure regulator.

What did you find?

Roger

Which engine do you have, V6 or V8? The V8's had trouble with the distributors. Lack of spark can cause a strong gas smell from unburnt fuel, which can be misleading.

Do you notice any black smoke from the exhaust at any time the engine is running? Most notably before the engine quits or after the engine starts?

Does the oil smell strongly of gasoline?

Have you check for spark DURING the short no-start period?

I did not check for spark no time. didn't see black smoke. I have a v8 265. oil smells like oil.

Okay,

Check for spark and get back to us.

I took the car for a 60 mile jont today only I had a timing light hooked up to no. 1 plug wire the car acted up so i stopped and pulled the trigger on the light it only light once and awhile then it stopped flashing all together but continued to run .I could smell raw gas. W.hat do you think if distributor do i change shaft and all, or rotor and cap

The whole distributor usually needs to be changed on this engine. Shop around.

1993 Chev Caprice Classic Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always

The climate control system in my 1993 Caprice Police Addition does not work when you turn on fan blower motor runs(has been replaced fan is turning) very little air comes out of vents Is ther a vacumm actuated solenoid that open intake to air and vents in car?

You say there is very little air coming out the vents, but does air flow switch from vents- floor- defrost?

Did the decrease in airflow happen slowly over time or all at once?

I just bought the car, it does switch from heat to defrost, I beleive it happened all at once

It's likely (especially if you have AC) that junk has accumulated on the evaporator and is restricting airflow. Cleaning is the solution.
It's also possible the air intake is plugged with leaves, etc but I'd bet on the first suggestion.

you were correct I have submitted the ok for payment, thank you

1985 Chev Caprice Classic Fuel System   

I've timed the engine to specs, changed oil, plugs, wires, fuel filter, radiator, thermostat and the housing; but when i shift from "park" to "drive" i notice a severe ecrease in power and to drive i have to keep my foot on the brake and gas when at a stop or at slow speeds.

Do you have the 4.3L fuel injected engine? If you do the idle speed motor may not be working. You can try removing it from the throttle body and cleaning it and its port into the throttle body. It may be bad and need replacing.

1984 Chev Caprice Classic Engine   

1984 caprice classic wagon just purchased. Changed plugs/rotor/cap starts and idles great lacks any power at all virtually unresponsive under acceleration. There is a high whine or whistle from I believe the exhaust on the right rear of the motor.

The two most common problems that cause this are lack fuel or restricted exhaust (will get even worse as the engine warms and usually causes the exhaust to glow in darkness).

Did you change the fuel filter?

Does the engine start well when warm and continue to idle great?

did not change the fuel filter. engine does seem to start and idle well when warm

Check to see if the exhaust starts glowing(darkness) from a restriction. Use extreme caution (turn off engine) when checking.

yes the exhuast manifold did glow some after warmed up and put under load.

Was this just present at exhaust manifold (close to engine) but not at the catalytic converter?

Pull the plugs on that side. If they have a blistery white appearance you may have a lean fuel condition (start with a new fuel filter and inspect for any kinked fuel lines). If not look where the exhaust pipe meets the manifold, some Chevy's of this vintage had a valve that could stick closed.

1979 Chev Caprice Classic Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I brought this 79 caprice, Didn't know the old man had reverse the battery cables, he had the red for negative and black for positive. Put a battery in it and put the red on the positive and black on the ground. Now it won't turn over. I changed the fusible link on the battery, check all fuses. Still nothing. Lights will work. Help.

I would first ensure that the black is ground. Might have cables on wrong not
the battery?If black is indeed ground, then test starter out of car unless you can get at terminals on starter easy. If you can access them, attach a jumper wire to the smallest terminal, closest to the block. Momentarily touch the other end of the jumper wire to the positive terminal of the battery.If it does not then turn over then suspect starter. If it does then test ignition switch on column.
A 79 chev is a simple car to work on!