Chev Chevelle

1972 Chev Chevelle Engine Lagging When accelerating Always

i have a 1972 chevelle with a 68 chevelle motor 396 (engine code 3935440) i just a friend redo the motor put in new edelbrock matching cam and manifold performer series , pete jackson gear drive ,msd coil ,6al box and distributor, crane cams roller rockers gold series, dyno max headers and comp cam push rods plus a 750 cfm edelbrock carb . i bought from a hi-performance store all said to match up . now my problem is when driving and i hit it i move and fast but from a stop im not to impressed little wheel spin seems like no bottom end performance. i got a turbo 400 and 4.10 gears i believe i got the engine to move the car but somethings not right, everyone sas i should be halling from the stop pretty much burning rubber but im not , the curve in my msd distor. was set at 2800 , do you think that has anything to do with it or is my timing just off , im not sure what my timing should be or my dell setting should be , can you please help me out going to slow in buffalo.

thanks any thing wrell help leo jr proud owner of a american classic 72 chevelle ss






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All this performance equipment should have come with warranty paperwork that would provide a contact address or phone number for technical support. I recommend you contact them for help.

Most any tech would need to see all these installation instructions for guidence when setting up your Chevelle. I would need it for sure and if it were in my shop, I'd run it on a dyno to get the best out of it I could for you.

That said, if you wish, I'll step aside so someone else can step up to help.

Are there any car clubs in your area? They may have valuable contacts on performance issues.

Roger

1970 Chev Chevelle Ignition System Tuning When stopped 

What is the firing order for a 454 LS6. Thanks Glen

I'm thinking [redacted] ...what have you tried?

Roger

1969 Chev Chevelle Ignition System Won't Start When starting Always

I just put a new wiring harness in the car. It now has HEI with the #12 pink wire and the yellow going down to the starter. I have to hold the key to keep the engine running. I also put a new ignition switch in tonight. No change but I did check and when I hook the battery up the horn relay clicks tellin me it's powering up with the key on or off. Also the horn relay is getting hot. The # 12 pink wire going to the dist is powered up all the time, key on or off. What's up?

It sounds like the horn pad is stuck on. I believe the horn relay is supposed to be hot all the time.

The pink wire to the distributor should be hot when the key is on only. It sounds to me like something got wired up wrong, check the wire harness instructions regarding that yellow and the pink wires.

I have checked them and the diagram several times and they are going to where they are supposed to be.

If your pink wire is hooked up at the starter, that sounds wrong, as it needs to turn off with the key.

Who made the wiring kit? Do they have support to resolve the problems with their harnesses?

No the pink wire is not hooked up at the starter it is hooked up to the dist battery terminal. The starter has the yellow and the purple as should be. NPD made the wireing harness. Factory replacement they say and it looks good but I kow that does not mean anything. No support at least I have not got ahold of anyone yet?

OK,
Unplug the pink wire and see if there is power on it with the key off. If there is power there, we need to track it to its source. It is supposed to come from the ignition switch. If you unplug the ignition switch the power should be gone. If it is still there, it is crossed to power somehow. If the power is lost when the switch is disconnected, either the switch is defective, or the harness wired wrongly. Did your wire harness come only to the bulkhead connector? Do the colors there match the old harness?

never mind i found it it was neither wire was bent over at firewall. Thanks anyway

Great!

1969 Chev Chevelle Engine   

engine turns over, but won't start. Has newer plugs, wires, dist cap & rotor, points, and coil. Getting gas to carb.

Hi, What size engine please? What year is the engine?

Have you checked the mechanical timing of the engine and distributor? Do you have spark?

Please advise,

Roger

The engine is a 1969 350 ci, 4 barrel, automatic. Mechanical timing looked ok, get a spark briefly but not consistent, only for 2-3 seconds, then nothing even though engine turns easily.

Does the engine have point type ignition or electronic ignition? GM or some other manufacturer distributor?

Please advise,

Roger

It is a GM engine with the original distributor and new breaker points.

Was the distributor removed from the engine during this repair event that is ongoing?

Did you set the points by feeler gage or dwell meter?

Have you tested the ignition coil for resistance values? Does the rotor make good contact with the button on the distributor cap? Will the spark jump from the coil wire to the coil tower if you hold the wire end 3/16" above the tower and crank the engine? (use insulated tool to hold the wire to avoid shock)

Has the harmonic balancer slipped due to breakdown of the bonding rubber between the concentric wheels that make up the pulley?

Roger

The distributor was neved removed, and the points were set by dwell meter. It has a new coil and it checked ok. Rotor makes good contact. There is a spark, but it is intermittent. The harmonic balancer looks ok.

Was the condenser in the distributor replaced along with the points?

Roger

Yes, it was.

Using a jumper wire ground the distributor side of the ignition coil.

With the key ON test the battery (+) side of the ignition coil with a volt meter. You should see a reading of 5.5 - 7 VDC. Crank the engine and you should see a reading of at least 9 VDC while the engine cranks.

To check ignition coil resistance, primary side, switch ohm meter to low scale. With the key OFF: Connect the ohmmeter leads across the primary terminals of the coil and read the low ohms scale.

Coils requiring ballast resistors should read about 1.o ohm resistance. 12 volt coils, not requiring external ballast resistors, should read about 4.0 ohms resistance.

To test the secondary side of the ignition coil disconnect the coil wire from the distributor cap. With the ohmmeter set to high scale connect one test lead to the loose coil wire terminal end and the other test lead to the distributor terminal side of the coil. Should read between 4K and 8K on the scale.

What readings do you get? Do you have a good ground between the battery and the engine, the battery and the body, and the engine and the body?

Roger

1966 Chev Chevelle Ignition System Upgrade  

I'm trying to pull the key ignition out of the dash, but the bessel ring wont come all the way off. I need to pull out the whole thing to get keys made.

Hello, Is having a Locksmith come to you not an option? Your key could be made right on site.

Have you considered a new ignition lock cylinder from a supplier such as Year One, Inc.? It would come with keys made.

See http://yearone.com/

Please advise,

Roger

Please, update the status of your question. I want to help.

Thanks,

Roger