Chev Corvette

2005 Chev Corvette Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise When driving Always

I'm experiencing gear rattle in my corvette transmission--is this fixable, and if so, what does it involve?

Hello, I'd like to send you a Technical Service Bulletin on this matter and get your impression on it's contents.

It is TSB 03-07-29-004B Dated September 2005.

What is your email address please?

Roger

Hello? Did you get my message? Would you like to receive the TSB concerning your transmission?

I'll need your email address please.

Roger

my email address is [redacted]

Thanks. I hope it addresses your concern.

Roger

i did not get a reply from you regarding this problem

Sir, After reading what GM states in the TSB I now want to ask you how you believe you car compares to what they state is expected?

I have the difficult position of offering advice is this situation where I cannot hear the severity of the gear rattle nor the priveledge of a road test to duplicate the complaint.

Will Chevrolet offer you options? Has the powertrain warranty expired? The mind set of a Chevrolet Dealer Service Department will be rooted in data such as I've sent you.

I wonder about the operating conditions, the ambient temperature, the lubricant in the trans and how old it is. Is there metal collecting on the drain plug magnet....See I really want to offer an intelligent suggestion to you!

Have you road tested with a qualified technician or shop foreman? Do you know the car's maintenance history?

If the gear rattle you are experiencing is outside the scope of the text in the Technical Service Bulletin then overhaul of the gear box would be the fix.

Your best bet is an opinion from a local dealership shop foreman that sells and services Corvettes, or a meeting with a Chevrolet Zone Reprsentative for service. Your business and satisfaction are of paramount priority to them.

Roger

Hi, Any news here? Just checking in with you...

Roger

1999 Chev Corvette Electrical / Lighting Systems Stalling When driving No pattern

A few months ago while driving to work, I drove over a "hill" at approx. 35 MPH. The car malfuntioned or stalled or something happened because the car went through the "start up" drill as it would when I first start it up. It restarts itself again as if nothing happened. This past weekend I accidentally hit a bump in the road and it did it again however this time the car died and i had to coast off to the side of the road to restart it.

You could have a bad ignition switch. You also may have a bad (or stretched) connection somewhere in the ignition system. Your auto technician should wiggle and tap everything that can make the car stall (this would recreate the impact of hitting a bump). It might be easy to find or might take a while. A computer scan may reveal something, if something the computer monitors was interrupted at which time it'd store a diagnostic code.

1996 Chev Corvette Ignition System   

No spark at ignition coil

Check the ignition module for voltage, and the crank position sensor.Also check the cap and rotor..A common problem is the Optispark Distributor...This failure prone item is avail. from the aftermarket from Accel Ignitions and MSD (MSD is better)
Due to the complexity of the system, I would first get it scanned for codes.The parts are too expensive to randomly change.

1979 Chev Corvette Drive Train / Driveline  When driving Always

Speedometer stopped working. (Bounced a while before.) Got new lower cable. When removed old cable at transmission there was just frayed wire, End of cable seems to be broken off inside. Not enough there to grab with needle nose pliers. Thought I could just pull sleeve out and remove from behind. Loosend bolt and retainer clip but sleeve won't pull out. Was afraid to force it and didn't want to damage threads. How can I get the broken end out and the new cable installed?

Hello, Do you have cruise control? Does the transducer have two cables connected to it?

I'm thinking your transducer has seized and that is how the lower cable was destroyed. If you can not get an affordable replacement transducer in your area you'll need to run a new full length speedo cable and housing from the speedo to the tranny thus bypassing the cruise control.

Roger

Thanks for the quick reply. I have a new cable and a spare transducer if needed. The problem is that I can't install the new cable because the tip end of the old one is broken off where it goes into the transmission. I can see it in the small hole but can't get anything on it to pull it out. I though I might remove the asm sleeve and gear, to push the broken piece out from the back, but it would not come out even after I remove the bolt and retainer clip and I was afraid to force it out. Any ideas for getting the broken tip piece out? The new cable should screw right in once the broken piece is out. Also..if I have to get the sleeve out to remove the broken piece...am I going to lose a ton of tranny fluid?
Thanks, Bob

You won't lose much tranny fluid if you have to pull the speedo driven gear and sleeve but be ready to catch some fluid.

With the retaining bolt for the speedo driven gear removed you can thread your cable housing (the old one) back on and have a handle to wiggle and pull until the gear sleeve comes out. There is an "O" ring seal that is probably binding on the bore for the sleeve. You could try WD-40 to get things lubed up. Might be easier for you.

Can you thread a small sheet metal screw into the broken cable end and then pull on the embedded screw with pliers to free the broken end?

Roger

I'll try the screw first then the old cable if necessary. Just wanted to be sure I could remove the sleeve, and get it back in, without causing furhter damage. If I do have to remove it...shouldn't it just "pop" back in after I get the old cable end out? Should the actual gear stay in or will it come out with the sleeve?

Thanks for the guidance.

Bob

The gear should come out with the sleeve. Going back in is little more than alignment and tranny fluid coating the O ring to prevent O ring binding.

Look closely at the condition of the driven gear's teeth. The drive gear is in the tranny and is metal. The driven gear is plastic and will wear with time. A frozen transducer can break teeth on a brittle driven gear.

If your speedo needs calibration to match vehicle speed due to tire size changes or such variables now is the time to address the number of teeth on the driven gear and upgrade as needed.

Roger

Ok. I'll try to get it up on the rack today or tomorrow and give it a try. Will keep you posted. Thanks.

Bob

Hope this goes easy. Use caution if you decide to try the sheet metal screw trick to pull the cable tip out. If the screw is too large or goes too deep it may split the plastic driven gear.

I'll be here,

Roger

Got the unit out(screw didn't work)without any trouble. No teeth stripped from gear but cable end was jammed in there good and I broke the shaft trying to get it out. Plastic was real brittle. Was a 22 tooth gear. Ecklers offers two...a green one and silver one with 22 teeth. Don't know the significance of the colors so I ordered both as they were cheap. Should have them in a day or two. Catalog did say for 4 speed automatic and mine is only a 3 speed automatic with the 410 rear end but the pictures looked identical and the tooth count is right. Can't tell what color the old one was as it's so old. Now it looks dark brown. Am I on the right track?
Thanks Roger.

Bob

You are doing great, have the track record of a professional, and some of the luck too!

22 teeth is what you want to match. You'll find the difference in the gears by color comes down to the length of the shaft that broke on your original gear or the outside diameter of that shaft....or both. Match the gear to the sleeve it slips inside of for mounting. You'll be fine.

Roger

Hey Roger,

The new gear went in just fine and the speedometer worked real good for about an hour! Then the new cable broke again in the same place!

I'm thinking the transducer may indeed be bad. Before I install the new one and my last lower cable...I am going to try just a straight through cable direct to the speedometer for a few days. If it doesn't break...then we'll know it was the transducer afer all. May just leave it out...never use the cruise control anyway.

Are there any things I should be careful of in getting the cable in and out of the back of the speedometer?

Thanks, Bob

Bob,
If you don't use the cruise then bypass it by all means. The Xducer is the problem.

I remember a metal spring tang that I lifted with my thumb to release the speedo cable from the speedometer. A one hand deal as I recall. By lifting the tang with my thumb my fingers wrapped around the cable housing could free the cable housing. Routing the new cable the same way as the original behind the dash is desireable. Avoid jerking the cable loose and expect it may be routed through a retainer bracket or clip. You'll do fine I'm sure of it.

Roger

Good deal. It will be several days before I can get back to it but will keep you posted. Thanks, Bob

Happy Easter Bob.

Roger

Same for you and your family Roger!

Bob

I'll wait for your reply.

Thanks,

Roger

Hi Roger,

Hope you had a good Easter! Just back from a week long road trip. Have this week then back out for another week.

Very proud of myself...I installed a new/rebuilt transducer and prepared to replace the lower cable again. To my surprise...it was not broken after all. When I quickly looked at it, last week in bad light, it had looked frayed like the old one but it was fine and spun freely. So I hooked it back up to the new transducer and hit the road...Nothing!!! What a let down...not even a bounce!

I don't know if I should remove the sleeve and gear again for another check (Could the new gear I installed have failed already?) or go right to changing the upper cable which looks like it is going to be a pain to get through the firewall and route under the dash. Some of the AC "plumbing" would have to come out.

Where would you recommend I go next? I'm frustrated and out of fresh ideas.

Thanks, Bob

Easter was good for us, thanks!

With the speedo cable disconnected from the tranny you can check both cables and the transducer by spinning the cable counterclockwise with a drill. If the speedo works this way you have a problem with the driven gear you replaced.

If the speedo doesn't work this way disconnect the upper cable from the Xducer and run only the upper cable with the drill. If the speedo now works the transducer is the problem.

Roger

Excellent ideas....duuuh....what was I thinking...I'll try it out tomorrow when I can get to the lift. I sure will be mad with Mid America if my "new" transducer is bad! Thanks Roger.

Bob

Lets hope the xducer is good. With the new lower cable connected to the old xducer the problem reoccured. You stated the cable looked good upon close examination. That leads me to believe the driven gear has the problem. It must have been the weakest link this time.

You are human. I got tickled that you would rather replace the transducer on a cruise you do not use than to have to run the upper speedo cable through the briar patch behind the dash. :)

Good luck Bob,

Roger

Also thought if I sell the Vette...future owner might want that option in there. My Bride also mentioned that when "if?" I ever let her drive the car...she might want the cruise. Am having fun though. It's bring back memories of my "shade tree" days working on my 340 six-pack Duster (wish I had kept that one!) back in the 70's.

A six-pack Duster will set you back a few bucks these days.

I'm a big fan of SS El Caminos with the big block built only in California. Saw one all original 454 cu in recently that $25 grand wouldn't buy. Silly man wouldn't sell it. I had a really nice 350 cu in 1972 (Red) and a 396cu in (Ralley Orange). Never found a 454 original for sale or I'd be in debt.

I love those 70's GM Muscle cars. But a Vette scares me. I worked on too many of them to think I would survive my driving one like I stole it.

Roger

By Gosh Roger...I think we've got it. Using the drill method...I determined that the lower cable was indeed bad. This time not the tranny end but the plastic end that goes into the transducer. It was just spinning in place but had not broken off. So two cables and a transducer later....success. Compairing with GPS...the speedometer is dead on until about 50mph. Then by the time you're doing 90 by the speedometer...the GPS says you're only doing 83. May save me a few tickets that way and I can live with it.
Many thanks for your help. Please let me know what I have to do to insure you get paid.

I do miss my old 340. I've always been a Mopar Man (own a Durango and a Grand Cherokee now) but the oldies are so hard to find in decent condition at a good price. The Vette has been a good substitute but you're right...I do have to be careful as it will go much faster than I really need to go. Plus being red...it's a Cop Magnet.

The Guys I grew up with were Chevy/GM Men. One had several big and small block El Caminos (one the SS 454 and another with a built 396) and another is now building a '64 Malibu w/big block. He has six of them outside his shop and is doing a ground-up build using parts from all of them. As he loves big cams, carbs and headers...it should be a screamer.

I am waiting to see if Dodge comes out with that Hemi Challenger the are showing at the car shows. The old Vette may bite the dust if that happens!

My E-mail is [redacted] . Stay in touch.

Take care, Bob

To accept my answer so that I may be paid just click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

I've enjoyed the ride. Thanks!

Can't promise I will keep in touch. I work about seventy of these questions at a time and have started taking on a second site as well. Keeps me thinking. Takes a great deal of time. Its what I do since my bone marrow transplant. I'm six years cancer free. Thank God!

What is really driving me nuts is all the email I get concerning my high school 40th reunion coming up. I doubt I go (I never have) and I was a gearhead not a jock so there doesn't seem much in it for me.

SWailing on,

Roger

Ha! That should have read "Sailing on."

All the best Bob,

Roger

Roger,

I have no OK TO PAY MECHANIC button but will do whatever is necessary to get you paid. Please advise.

Thanks again for your help and guidance.

I held out until my 30th reunion and actually had a blast. My friends were still my friends and the butt-heads were still butt-heads so we all ignored them!

Take care and best of luck down the road, Bob

I'll write to All-Parts.com and tell him we are ready to close this question.

I've seen a pic of the 30 year reunion of my classmates but there are no names shown. Funny how so very many are gone now. Less than a hundred of the original 675 are in the pic.

Thanks Bob,

Roger