Chev G-Series Van

2001 Chev G-Series Van Chassis / Suspension & Steering  When driving Always

ABS WARNING LIGHT COMES ON WHEN STARTED, STAYS ON AND THEN GOES OFF AND THEN COMES BACK ON. KEEPS GOING ON AND OFF. WHAT MIGHT IT BE?

Now when applying brakes, the antilock brakes/wheels lock or grab.

If the antilock brakes are grabbing/locking it is safer to drive with the ABS deactivated (pull the abs fuse). This assumes you realize the antilock brakes will not be functional at this time. Do you have experience driving with conventional brakes? In an emergency stop conventional brakes will lock up the wheel if pressed to hard at driving speed. With ABS it is recommended to apply the brake hard during an emergency stop (the abs system will keep the wheel from locking.

Common problems with abs systems are the wheel speed sensors and their associated wiring/connectors. When the abs light comes on a diagnostic fault code is stored in the vehicles computer. A scan tool is needed to pull the code(s). Some chain autoparts stores pull codes free of charge, I don't know if they have the capability to pull abs codes. Call ahead (Advance, Autozone, etc). wise you'll need to pay a shop to at least pull the codes.

1996 Chev G-Series Van Ignition System Won't Start Happens always Always

My 1500 conversion van has always had this problem: Whenever we hit the indicator/turn signal, the voltage on the battery meter in the dash cluster keeps jumping up/down depending on if the indicator light is on or not. Also, it has always had a problem holding a battery charge over more than a week or two, and the battery buddy that we used to have in it got tripped fairly often if the van was idle for a few days. We recently replaced the battery when it stopped starting but the replacement battery also got fried. We're on the 3rd battery now, and when we installed it, we also put in a new starter. Well, it started a few times, but now the new starter is also fried! We've done some troubleshooting and the fuses/relays, etc seem to be in good condition.

If possible, please send email replies to [redacted] . Thanks!

Sounds like a multiple problem. When the battery guage jumps when the turnsignals are on the normal cause is a bad ground, or a short. I would suspect the latter, as the factory is more careful when routing their wires. The aftermarket (Conversion) suppliers sometimes incorrectly route wires, and mount accessorys. I have occassionally found errant screws from something installed improperly.Screws sometimes end up in wiring harnesses.
With the battery being discharged, I usually remove one fuse at a time, watching for a small spark when it is reinserted. That will eliminate 95% of the circuits and allow you to concentrate on the one offending circuit. The first thing I remove is the battery negative cable, with everything shut off,and again watch for a spark when reconnecting (a small one) This will indicate that there is a small current drain of some sort.Look for something, non factory, out of place IE trailer hitch and wiring is usually checked first.
A good shop manual, like a Haynes, will have a easy to read wiring diagram.
Wiring is a pain, but more so if you hand your van over to a shop and the shop hours start to accumilate.

1992 Chev G-Series Van Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Everything was great yesterday no problems, went to start this morning and nothing when you turn the key, swapped batteries to a new known good one. same, jumped starter it turns over fine. horn and lights work, no heater fan and no wipers. when jumping the starter, it doesn't start all fuses checked and good.

radio doesn't work either, it's like no accesories at all

It sounds like you have a bad power supply to the ignition switch, or a bad switch. Use a test light to determine if the power is missing. If no power to the switch, you may have a bad wire, or bulkhead connection.

Do the dash lights turn on?

1983 Chev G-Series Van Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction When driving Always

I have a right caliber that appeared to froze up. I have replaced it and bled lines. Took out for a test drive and the same condition still exists. Is this a failure mode of the proportioning valve? Number two is this resetable. And if not where can a get a rebuilt and new one.

Hello, If you haven't replaced the brake caliper flex hose I recommend it. The caliper receives your hydraulic pressure from the foot brake master cylinder okay. But, when a flex hose material breaks down (within) from age, it can cause a restriction that prevents correct flow volumn of fluid to allow the caliper to release when the brakes are no longer applied. The caliper remains applied (stuck) because pressure that applied it, can't be relieved. Most often the flex hose which looks fine and is not kinked is still internally faulty.

A proportioning valve has to do with front vs. rear brake fluid flow. In the event one axle's brakes hydraulically fail, the valve will shift and direct fluid flow to the opposite axle to slow/stop the vehicle with the remaining good axle's brakes. The brake warning light on the dash would stay lit up because the fluid level would be low in the master cylinder due to a leak. Once repairs are completed the valve resets itself with the restored pressure coming from a properly working master cylinder.

Make sense?,

Roger

Roger...you were right on the flex hose looked fine and there was no external sign of a problem. Thanks, I was giving this vehicle away to a guy down on his luck and you made the hit on the repairs not so bad.
THANKS AGAIN ARNEJ

1979 Chev G-Series Van Ignition System   

need to start the van, lost both sets of keys and my girlfriend and landlord don't want it in front of the house anymore. (my girlfriend says it looks like a child-molester van) It's got a manual w/three on the tree and the ignition is on the dash, also the steering column does not lock

If the steering wheel surely won't lock, the ignition switch can be manually activated (USE CAUTION, shift to neutral, with functional parking brake applied, and all wheels blocked or don't try) by moving the actuating rod (or substituting something in place of the rod).

The lock cylinder moves a rod that actuates the ignition switch.

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/16/da/2[redacted] da28/repairInfoPages.htm

Copy and paste the above link into your address bar to see an image of the ignition switch. There are also links on the page for the lock cylinder, etc.

You may wish to hot wire the vehicle instead. Simply use a fused jumper wire from battery positive to the coil positive terminal (you may have the HEI distributor with one wire-- positive to coil-- on the top of the cap/coil combination).

Use a remote starter to apply battery voltage to the small terminal on the starter. This is when you have to make sure the vehicle is not in gear as the engine will be turning the transmission (if in gear the van will move). Autozone or Advance Auto may have a remote start available as part of their tool loaner program (fully refundable deposit, call ahead).Use Extreme Caution or don't attempt, as the engine will start and the vehicle will move IF NOT shifted to Neutral with (a functional) parking brake applied!!!

The engine will not shut off until the jumper wire to the coil positive is disconnected (you must park on a level surface, PARKING BRAKE APPLIED, to disconnect the wire). Don't forget to put it back in gear when done.

The above methods should only be used OFF-ROAD, if you have to go on a public highway a permanent solution of a new lock cylinder is required.

Some peoply drill out the old lock cylinder and use a screwdriver to start the vehicle. This methods works but is not recommended because of the risk of damaging the lock cylinder housing."

1978 Chev G-Series Van Engine  When troubleshooting Always

Chevrolet 400 motor would run well only when timed at approx. 20 degreses BTC. for last month. Had new long block built. Same situation. Checked for TDC with pencil in #1 and found balancer and timing numeral plate seemed to line up perfect at 0. Does this indicate timing gear installed properly? Removed balancer and found it matched up correctly with new one in relation to mark and keyway. Placed back on, same problem. Had distrutor placed on machine at auto repair facility and it checked ok. Replaced distributor. Same problem. Checked routing of vacuum lines with Mitchell Manual. All appeared correct. (Backfires at 4 degree markand runs ROUGH). Still runs ok @20 degrees. Can't pass smog with this timing condition. Machine shop "re-clocked" distributor drive. Same condition. Maximum intake manifold vacuum is @ approx. 20 degrees BTC.

I'll give it a shot. Do you know if you have a single plane intake or dual plane. If dual plane and a quadrajet it might have an internal crack. Also try spraying some WD40 around the intake area and see if you notice any difference in rpm. This could lead to a warped intake. Les

I believe it's what is called a dual plane though I don't really know. It do know it does have a quadrajet. Short of replacing the carb or manifold (which one are you implying may have the crack, the carb, the manifold, both?) by changing them out how can these be tested? To change each of these is worth it of course if this is the problem, but it's so much work and expense if not quite certain before hand. But, of course, if replacing is my only option I will eventually and if this solves the problem I will ok payment immediately. I have tried spraying carb cleaner on the intake manifold and there was no change in RPM's. Did placing at TDC and the timing marks lining up at zero prove the timing gears are lined up (synchronized) correctly? Again, please be assured that if this does indeed prove to be the problem I will authorize payment immediately. Thank you. P.S. For ease if you would like you may call me at [redacted] , Thanks again, Robert

If you have a dual plane intake, you can do one check that will nearly pin point the problem. Take and turn your one idle adjusting screws all the way in. This should kill half of the engine. If it does not turn the other all the way in and see if it does kill the engine. E-mail me back with results. Thanks Les

Les, I turned one of the idle speed screws in all the way (Rochester 4mv is the carb.) and the motor ran a little rougher. I left it in and then turned the other one in all the way. Motor ran even rougher but still did not die, though it acted as though it was sick enough that it might want to. Intake manifold vacuum dropped from 20 to 14 after both screws were turned in all the way. I did not adjust the fast idle screw on the primary throttle valve contact lever (I didn't think that that was the one you were speaking of). Hope this is right. Thanks.

Hi Robert;
This is Les. It seems like there is more than I can explain. I work Nights so give me a call at work at about 6:00pm. I'm in central time. The phone number is [redacted] . Talk to you later. Les