Chev Lumina

1998 Chev Lumina Electrical / Lighting Systems  Happens always 

My turn signals do not work. The fuse is good. (The same day I was wiping down the steering column and my hazard light button broke off). I put it back in and my hazard lights still work. Please help!

There is a small module, usually located under the dash , near the driver side that makes the turn signals flash.

Find it and replace it.

The auto parts store people should be able to help you find this device when you go to buy the replacement.

1998 Chev Lumina Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When starting When cold

When starting the 98 Lumina early in the morning, the dash lights may or may not come on with the headlights. Usually they will come on slowly then dim and come back up, with no particular regularity. It does not seem to have a cross problem with other lights in the car. The curious thing is that two months ago the car died - we had a new battery put in and it lasted about a month and it died. The dashlight problems seemed to mirror the time the battery was losing power. In other words, the dashlights seemed to be working when the battery was new but gradually the above problem returned and then the battery died. We then had the car taken to a dealership that I have faith in and they reported the alternator not doing its job and replaced both the alternator and battery and did a few other things to the tune of $400.00. Guess what, everything was going along swimmingly for a couple of weeks, and then the dashlights again started to act up. Again, the car died out on the highway and again both the battery and alternator were changed - only $240.00 this time.

It has now been about two weeks and the dashlights are again coming on slowly and dimming and coming back up rather irratically. I know that it seems strange that the action of the dashlights are somehow related to this other major problem, but I think they are related. Something is draining the juice out of the battery and I believe it is connected to the dashlight problem.

Any takers on this one? Gary

Hi Gary,
If I had this car in my shop, I would first check the alternator now, before it quits on the road. I believe the dash light symptom is occurring because of low voltage.... most likely the alternator, or a bad ground wire, or a wire going to the dash. I suspect the alternator, or alternator wiring because the ending of dying on the road.
The dash lights cannot kill the alternator, the alternator can cause the lights to go crazy.
Check the voltage right away, make sure you drive it while you can to one of the shops where you already paid for it to be fixed. The alternator and battery should be completely warranteed, with no charge whatsoever to you unless an additional problem is found.
Dale

1998 Chev Lumina Fuel System Lagging When accelerating When warm 

98 Lumina 3.1 L V-6 4 door with 115,000 miles has had a problem (minor) for 2 years. When on highway and I do a SLIGHT acceleration it acts like not getting enough fuel (accelerates then drops off then accelerates then drops off maybe 2 or 3 times per second). It was about 80,000 miles when this first appeared and I replaced spark plugs (w/ same platinum ones), plug wires, fuel filter. Didn't fix it. I do NOT get any check engine lights. Can a code be stored without turning on Check Engine Light? Anyway. your thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.

Check for a TPS,MAF,MAP and O2 sensor.The O2 and MAP will generally trip the check engine light,the TPS and MAF do also but I have seen where they somtimes don't.You may also want to check for any types of vacuum leaks and the fuel injectors if so equiped.These also somtimes cause the problem you describe but don't always trip the light.
Good Luck,
Paul

Paul,
Thanks. So it is possible for a code to be set in the ODBII but not have the "Check Engine Light" come on?

Sorry for getting back on your reply,my computer has been down.Yes I've seen it before.
Good Luck,
Paul

1998 Chev Lumina Fuel System   

V6 3.1 engine runs very rich, exhaust smells very rich even inside the car. 234,000 miles on it but runs very well and does not burn oil. Have had the fuel injectors bench-tested, replace the fuel pressure regulator, and replaced the mass air flow sensor. Still does the same thing.

If no codes, then try the coolant temp sensor as it tells the computor to run rich till the engine warms up.

1997 Chev Lumina All Part Groups Making Noise Happens always Always

This has been going on for about a week, only driven the car twice since it started. A terrible grinding noise is coming from the engine, seems to be from the drive belt...one of the front pulleys perhaps. A friend looked at it and said he saw metal flaking off of a front pulley. The day after this started my car wouldn't start, replaced battery and battery cables in a mall parking lot, now it starts but noise remains. I am forced to drive this car at least 2 or 3 times this week for several miles...if anyone has heard of this specific problem in the v6 3100 motor please let me know chances of chucking the belt or anything worse. Thanks

Yes there is a good chance the belt will be damaged or break. You need to see what pulley/part is causing the problem. It seems you are unfamiliar with engine parts, so I recommend visiting an autoparts store (Autozone/Advance) and have them check the charging system (I think the problem has disabled or may be directly related to the charging system- and this is why the battery went dead). They will check the charging system/battery free of charge. The parts guy should be able to identify the problem while he testing things.
Don't plan on driving to far. If the belt breaks the engine will overheat rather quickly.

Copy and past the following link into your address bar if you'd like an online repair guide that'll help you lean about your engine.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

1997 Chev Lumina Heating / Cooling System   

A few weeks a go my car overheated. The temp went way up and no heat was coming out of the vents, only cold air. Let it sit for a while, then tried it again. Temp went up, no heat. the car started overheating again. All of a sudden the heat came on and the temp went down. Since then it has been doing this every so often. No heat, temp going up then the heat will come on and the temp go down. We have flushed the system thinking something was clogging it. That did not work. We changed the thermostat thinking that was going bad. Still getting the same thing. Any suggestions?

Hi, This sounds like air in the cooling system. When present the air will tend to be trapped in the heater core. The result is poor flow through the heater core and therefore no heat.

Cooling fans running Ok?

Roger

The fan seems to be running fine though I am not sure when it kicks in. Would the heat sensor cause any of this. We were thinking of trying that next. I will bled it tonight and let you know.

Bleeding the air out is critical.

A heat sensor would not be the blame for no heat flow from the vents. That is a flow problem.

Let me know what happens....

Roger

It has been bled and still the same problem. While the car is over heating I noticed that the overflow tank was full to the brim. When it was not over heating the tank was normal. We replaced the pump last year. So I think it is ok. And as I said it does not happen all the time. Usually durning the first 20-30 minutes of driving then it seems to act normally. Though on occasion it will do it again after driving for a long while.

Have you tried a different radiator cap? If it doesn't hold pressure the coolant can boil.

Roger

we replaced the cap and have bled it some more. No change.

Is this a 3.1L or 3.4L engine? Are you confident the coolant is circulating properly? Does the lower radiator hose feel hot but cooler than the upper Hose?

Do you see air bubbles in the coolant overflow reservoir while the engine idles?

Is there an air bleeder screw on the thermostat housing?

Roger

it is a 3.1L . No I do not think the coolant is circulating properly. There are bubbles in the overflow and the upper hose is sometimes cool and seems to have no pressure. I have not checked the lower.

What method do you use to bleed the air out of the cooling system?

Roger

I checked both hoses yesterday. I was not overheating at the time. They were both hot. I have been bleeding it through two bleeder screws. One on the top hose the other on a small hose on top of the engine.

When both radiator hoses were hot, the engine was not overheating, did you still see air bubbling up into the coolant overflow reservoir?

Roger

No, the only time I have seen bubling is when it is over heating. I think the bubbling is more from the coolant boiling than air. when it has been over heating the top hose, only sometimes, is cool and has no pressure. I am pretty sure it is overheating because the water stops circulating. I just can't figure out why it some times circulates and then stops then starts again.

Circulation is impaired when an air pocket reaches the water pump.

When I refill a cooling system I fill the radiator until it is full and then put the radiator cap on just far enough to engage the locking tabs. (I'm referring to the filler neck tabs that will not allow removal of the radiator cap without pushing down on the cap so it will turn past these tabs.) The arrows on the cap do not line up with the overflow hose.

Next I fill the coolant overflow reservoir to the full COLD mark. Set the heater controls to MAX Heat.

Start the engine and allow to warm up until the level in the overflow reservoir starts to rise and air bubbles are seen.

Next I increase the engine idle to 1[redacted] RPM, or a slight increase by ear if there is no tachometer.

Watch the coolant level rise in the overflow reservoir as the air bleeds out and then fall back down. Keep the level at full COLD. Repeat this purging cycle rise and fall in the overflow reservoir a second time with the engine speed slightly above idle.

Lock the radiator cap on to the fully installed position so the arrows align with the overflow hose.

Is the heater hot as it should be? If so the coolant flow through the heater core is free of air.

Next I drive the vehicle up to five miles to include aggressive acceleration two or three times while I monitor the engine temp and note if the heater stays hot.

When the road test is complete I service the coolant reservoir level to full HOT and shut the engine off.

Only now if the overheating continues would I use the air bleeder screws.

What are your thoughts?

Roger

The heat is fine while it is working properly. When it overheats I get cold air. This whole thing started all of a sudden. The car was running fine. Then it just started doing this. We had not done anything to the system. We have tried all the things I listed and none have made a difference. It is acting as though something is periodiclly blocking the circulation. It seems to happen more when I start the car run it for a short time,then start it again after a few minutes.I tend not to think it is not an air blockage from the way it started and there have been no changes with all we have done.

Was the coolant level low when this all started?

Nothing you have tried has had a favorable ending and my method of bleeding air out of the cooling system didn't even bring you pause to consider.

You are welcome to release the question to see if others have ideas to get to the bottom of this. All I want is for you to be satisfied.

Roger

No the coolant level was not low. If you have no more ideas I will release it.

A compression test may reveal a head gasket problem. Have you considered this test?

Roger

No, I had not heard of this test.

A compression test will determine if a defective place in a head gasket is allowing cylinder gases to be pumped into the cooling system causing air in the system and overheating.

Your mechanic can do this for you, or you can buy a compression test gauge for about $20 at a Wal-Mart Supercenter.

All of the spark plugs are removed and a guage is threaded into the spark plug hole (one at a time). Then the engine is cranked for four compression cycles of the cylinder then the reading is recorded.

The lowest reading must be at least 85% of the highest reading. If two cylinders side by side have unusually low readings a compression leak is suspected.

Roger

1996 Chev Lumina Engine Sticking When idling Always

Egine idling fast 95% of the time.

Check for any vacuum leaks. If none are found focus on the idle speed motor(IAC). Sometimes cleaning the pintle on the IAC will work. For a picture and instructions, visit:

http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Manual%20Lookup/cal_ModelLookup.html

1996 Chev Lumina Engine  When driving No pattern

I took my Lumina LS to Precision Tune for general maintenace (spark plugs, oil change, PCV, radiator flush, transmission fluid change). They told me that my engine fluid was leaking into my coolant and it would cost over $600 to repair.(a faulty gasket in either the manifold or headgasket. We went on a 3500 mile road trip and the car began to overhead in the desert. We added a bottle of stop leak to the radiator and it never overheated again. Upon return, we took the car to the Texaco Xpress Lube for a new coolant change and the young man seemed quite knowlegable about the problem we experienced. He kindly would not change the coolant
because it should only have the pink fluid and should only be changed every 120,000 miles. He said a better gasket is made than the original and that there is a current class action suit against GM. He said that this was common in 1996 Luminas with my engine (I think 3.1). Also, not having known about the 'pink' coolant, I'm not sure that that is what was put in.

How can I verify that this is the problem? Have you heard this to be common? Do you have any suggestions or comments for what I feel the Precision Tune guy thinks is the "dumb blonde"?

Thanks....
Hoping to be a 'smarter' blonde

Hello, Beginning in 1996 year model GM started using "DEX-COOL" 100,000 mile coolant that some call "pink" or "orange" in color. Due to it's extended life it is now a benchmark standard and widely used on all the models I can think of (GM).

If DEX-COOL gets mixed with the green coolant it works just fine but must be changed every two years regardless of miles. No big deal with that. If you want to change the coolant type from one to the other (say green back to pink) the system should be flushed clean including the heater core to ensure the very minimum of dilution so you may get the 100,000 mile benefit back in your favor.

As to the class action law suit, I am not aware of that and I've had two Buicks with the 3.1L engine. One needed headgaskets and never had a repeat problem after repair.

I can research for technical service bulletins and even recalls if you like but I recommend you talk with a Chevy dealer about the subject without checking your car into the shop for anything. They should guide you as to histories with the 3.1L engine coolant leak problems.

Please note that I have NEVER been successful using stop leak to remedy a headgasket leak. I've worked as a professional technician for over 30 years. Headgaskets must seal the exploding gases of combustion as well as seal the coolant from getting into the oil. Stop leak will not set up hard enough to hold against the compression in the cylinders for combustion.

There are tests for headgasket failure. They are not always definitive and fool proof.

You sure do not want to have a severe overheat of your engine, so don't delay tests if you are still having problems. I would get that stop leak out of my car. It can stop up slightly restricted tubes in both the radiator and the heater core. If the leak comes back it should be fixed, not patched or your car's reliability will be impaired. It's a matter of what your comfort level is.

Thoughts?,

Roger

Hello? Did you receive my response? Thanks.

Roger

I can't find the class action suit either but have been told there is one. I did however go to the NHTSA Complaints/Office of Defects Investigation though and found several similiar complaints.

Also forgot to tell you that while on vacation we were using the cruise control and when we stepped on the brakes it not only did not disengage, but sped up and went into the 'red' zone and brakes would not stop car. Finally got our heads together and turned off ignition and slammed car into Park. Extremely freightening. Have you heard of this before? Obviously, did not use CC again and have taped it so as not to accidently use it.

Here is more info:

Class Action Suit Filed!

Girard Gibbs & De Bartolomeo www.girardgibbs.com has filed a class action lawsuit against General Motors and Chevron USA. The lawsuit alleges that General Motors and Chevron USA engaged in unfair business practices and false advertising in connection with Dex-Cool and vehicles equipped with Dex-Cool. For more information regarding the suit, or if you would like to discuss problems you have had with respect to Dex-Cool and GM vehicles, please send an email to Dylan Hughes at [redacted] or Emily Fedman at [redacted] , or call [redacted] .



GG&D

Eric H. Gibbs

Girard Gibbs & De Bartolomeo LLP

601 California Street, Suite 1400

San Francisco, CA 94108

Phone; [redacted]

Fax: [redacted]

[redacted]

www.girardgibbs.com

Very interesting this law suit. Thank you for passing it on for reference.

My experience with a cruise control that will not disengage when brakes are applied has been relative to the brake lights not working. A brake light switch broken, or stuck "off" and even a case when the brake light bulbs were all burned out. The cruise system looks for a voltage drop (when the brake lights come on they consume power) and will disengage and stand by.

If the cruise did not receive the voltage drop signal but instead sensed the loss of speed, it will apply throttle to maintain the set speed. (as though the car just suddenly had to climb a mountain) The more time lapsed without good recovery of speed, the more throttle is called for to try and keep up. If you floor the gas pedal and exceed the cruise set speed by 20 mph, the check engine light should come on and a code will set for a runaway throttle and the cruise is supposed to disengage and be inop until the code is cleared. This happens alot with agressive drivers passing vehicles with the cruise still set.

Slamming the car into PARK when the car is moving can cause the Parking Pawl to ratchet and or break off. Turning the key to "off" is wise thinking but don't turn it to "lock" (that would allow you to move the shift lever to PARK) or you will lock the steering wheel too. Bad situation.

I haven't looked for cruise recalls, have you?

Roger

Jeesh, you are really knowlegable! Thank you for explaining the cruise thing to me in such an understandable fashion. Too bad you aren't in the Kent area.....I'd sure like you to be the one that diagnosed/fixed my car for me. I just lost my job at Boeing so need to find someone that I can trust that won't charge me an arm and a leg. I do know a really good mechanic (Don West of West and Sons) but he is really high priced. I went to school with him. Oh well.

I did look for recalls on the cruise control. But of course, there aren't any. In case I didn't give you these websites, here are the ones that I found interesting. I had to spend a lot of time looking for complaints and issues that were compatible with mine, but you may find it all to be good info for you:

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/complain/request/preview.cfm

http://www.gm-v6lemons.com/

Thanks so much for your help Roger! Hope these websites will be of value to you.

Jeesh, you are really knowlegable! Thank you for explaining the cruise thing to me in such an understandable fashion. Too bad you aren't in the Kent area.....I'd sure like you to be the one that diagnosed/fixed my car for me. I just lost my job at Boeing so need to find someone that I can trust that won't charge me an arm and a leg. I do know a really good mechanic (Don West of West and Sons) but he is really high priced. I went to school with him. Oh well.

I did look for recalls on the cruise control. But of course, there aren't any. In case I didn't give you these websites, here are the ones that I found interesting. I had to spend a lot of time looking for complaints and issues that were compatible with mine, but you may find it all to be good info for you:

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/complain/request/preview.cfm

http://www.gm-v6lemons.com/

Thanks so much for your help Roger! Hope these websites will be of value to you.

[redacted]

You are welcome and I thank you for your sharing info that I will surely come to use in the future.

Roger

1996 Chev Lumina Electrical / Lighting Systems   

brake lights do not work on my sons 1196 chev lumina. turn lights work, running lights work, brake light in rear window works but not the brake lights. checked all fuses and they are ok. replaced the bulbs but did not help. old bulbs look ok. what do I try next??????

The brake light switch under the dash, about 10 inches above the pedal.Its black plastic, about the size of your finger.Two wires ( more if cruise control).Might have failed or be out of adjustment.

will try that in the morning and let you know what i find out

1995 Chev Lumina Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always When warm 

chevy says radiator fans are ok. no codes. Fans never run. One runs if air conditioner is on. Temp gauge goes up when not moving. Goes down when moving.

Hello, There are relays that control the cooling fans and at what speed the fan motors run. I'd recommend you replace them. All of them. Chevy should have known to recommend this.

But, before you do...each relay connector has four wires. Two of these wires should have 12 volts present when the key is on. If that is the case, replace the relay and retest for cooling fan operation.

Will Chevy show you where these relays are??

Your turn,

Roger

1995 Chev Lumina Engine Overheating Happens sometimes No pattern

Overheats driving or idleing.Also when overheats it has no heat. If let run will cool down and at the same time it starts to put out heat. When it overheats the engine, radiator and hoses seem to be cool. The thermostat and cap have been replaced. I see no sign of coolant in the crancase or tail pipe.

Which engine do you have?

Sorry.I thought I said. 3100 V-6

Okay, make sure you are full of coolant, no air pockets, system bled. Tip- when installing a thermostat prop it open with an aspirin. The aspirin will allow air to bleed out before it dissolves.

Next step is to remove the radiator cap (cold engine) and start the engine and allow it to idle (you can raise the idle slightly to speed the process) and observe the coolant in the radiator. Look for any significant signs of air bubbles or gurgling (as the engine warms). Also feel the upper radiator hose, the thermostat should open when the engine gets up to temperature and you should be able to feel hot coolant surge through (quite hot so use caution, especially with sensitive skin).

Also consider calling a radiator shop and see if they have a reasonable price to 'snif' the coolant for combustion gases.

Let me know what you discover and we'll go from there."

1995 Chev Lumina Engine Won't Start Happens sometimes When warm 

I Have a 1995 Lumina That is Jumping and jerking going down the road Some times it does other times it don't. Also It has been running about 230 Degrees I shut it off and it idles funny or just turns over and over and nothing Until the temp gauge gets to 100

Has the thermostat ever been changed? The coolant level and thermostat are the first things to check when you are running hot.

Does the check engine light come on when the jumping and jerking takes place? If it does you'll need to have the computer codes read. You may be able to do this yourself, depending on which diagnostic connector you have.

No start while cranking a hot engine may be the crank sensor, but let's see if there are diagnostic codes first.

Use the folling link to access a repair guide for your car- under 'Emissions' you'll find instructions for trouble code retrieval- beware that your diagnostic connector may not have an A & B terminal in which case a scanner will be required to check the codes.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

1995 Chev Lumina Engine Won't Start Happens sometimes When cold

Car will start, but wont stay running more than a few seconds. Pumping throttle is the only way to t get it to fire but wont stay running. then after doing this a while, Many times. problem completly goes away. car runs fine and problem only reoccurs next morning?

Do you notice a strong gas smell?

You may have fuel pressure bleeding off into the engine. Try holding the accelerator to the floor, does it start faster?

Also check the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator for the presense of gasoline. Is it wet or does it smell like gas? If yes the diaphragm is leaking and the regulator needs replacing.

no gas smell at all. Holding it to the floor will keep it from starting at all.

I should of been clear on this, you must try this during the hard/no start period.

No there is no gas smell. Pushing accelerator to the floor does not help, nor will car start with pedal on floor. If you tap the accelarator rapidly, it will start. After it warms up, the car seems to run fine.

Pushing the accelerator to the floor puts the car in clear flood mode. This means the engine will only start if there is undesired fuel already in the engine- IE- from a flooding condition. It passes the flooding tests.

Now you'll need to obtain a fuel pressure gauge and see if fuel pressure is sufficient when the problem is present. If you cannot get a fuel pressure gauge there is something else to try, although it is not as accurate as the preferred method using a fuel gauge.

What is that( undesifred) ? I literally hammered with a soft rubber hammer on several item on the engine. it is now failing, coughing, stuttering, all the time.

(undesired)- unwanted- gas reaching the engine will allow it to start in clear flood mode. We have ruled this out as a problem.

Is there a check engine light while the engine is running?

Inspect the coils and plugs wires for cracks, corrosion, etc. You can also carefully listen for arcing wires, etc (they will make a 'snap' sound. Also in darkness or good shade, you will be able to see stray electricity.

Have you tested the fuel pressure? Some parts stores may you loan you a gauge for refundable deposit. Try Autozone or another store that offers a tool loaning service.

1995 Chev Lumina Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

Originally the left turn signal was malfunctioning. The right one was OK. I changed the wiring in the steering column, replaced the flasher and checked the fuses in the fuse box. There is power going to the flasher but neither turn signal is working. Is there another fuse somewhere? What else can I do to get my signals working properly? Will appreciate any and all help you can offer.

Thank you,
Bob
heaven2170@msn.com

Do the emergency flashers work?

Did you change the turn signal switch, it sounds as though this may have failed.

Yes I did change the turn signal switch. The emergency flashers do not work either

Hello is anyone there

Hi Douglas!

Just wondering if you are extemely busy today and/or having some trouble locating an answer to my question. Please let me know what your progress is as I am sitting watching the computer for your needed answer

Thank you,
[redacted]

Hi Douglas!

I have solved the problem. Since I had already changed the turn signal switch,which didn't solve the problem, hence I contacted you. While awaiting your response, I tried a different switch and hurrah! it worked. Please refund my account as I did not get an answer to my question.

Thank you,
[redacted]

It is not uncommon to find bad aftermarket parts, but I have never seen a bad turn signal switch out of the box. I'm glad you found the problem. I was not available when you replied back, help is not always 'live'. You will need to contact the site administrator to process your refund. If you don't know how to contact him, let me know.

Thank you for your response and your offer to help me contact the administrator. As the saying goes, "There is always a first time for everything," so I found out myself today also. Please advise on how to contact the administrator.

Thank you, Douglas
Have a blessed weekend!
[redacted]

Your welcome. The email address you need is:

[redacted]

Thanks again for Mark's email.

Have a safe and blessed weekend!
[redacted]

1995 Chev Lumina Ignition System Won't Start Happens sometimes No pattern

My 95 Lumina (3.1) Have an alarm and remote start in it. The car doesnt start all the time. I've replaced the starter about 6 months ago. I've checked all the cables and they are fine. When I turn the ignition I have power but the start doesnt turn over. Recently my security light has been coming on after I get the car to start. Usually I'll let it sit for about 30 minutes or over night and when I go to start it it turns on fine. What can it be? Im thinking its my alarm system somehow.

If this is an aftermarket alarm they are known to cause a variety of problems.

Pay attetention to see if the factory security light behaves differently when the vehicle starts compared to the no start period (IE- blinking). This will let you know if the problem is with the security system.

1994 Chev Lumina Electrical / Lighting Systems Failing Happens always 

Troubleshoot turn signal lights when the Hazard lights work but the blinkers do not?

Hello, The first thing to check is the fuse for the turn signals. You'll notice it is a seperate fuse from the one for the STOP/HAZARD lights.

When turned "ON" do any lights light up but not blink?

Please advise, there are a couple ways to go from here.

Roger

Fuse is good and when the problem first started yes the light did come on and not blink but now no lights turn on.

Okay, I recommend replacing the turn signal flasher. It is under the left side of the dash. It will be on a bracket near the steering column I believe. It is not in the fuse box.

Would you need the wiring color code for the two-wire connector for the flasher? I can try and get a pic if you need it.

The flasher is available at most any national auto parts chain store.

Roger

Will you please update the status of this question?

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, I'm still hoping to hear from you. Have you read my previous message?

Thanks,

Roger

1994 Chev Lumina All Part Groups   

I Have just recently replaced my catylatic converter, radiator, all the censors, coils, head gaskets, 6 fuel injectors, both fans, and the computer with all that my car is still stalling when it gets hot. It will start but as soon as i take my foot off the accelerator and then put it back on it stalls. What is the issue?

Normally I would look at the coolant temp sensor, but you said you changed all the sensors...
Another cause of stalling would be a good sized vacuum leak.
And another problem would be the lock up converter locking at too low of a rpm.
Just two common things to look at.

1993 Chev Lumina Ignition System   

Cannot get a 2 yr old expensive 5yr waranty battery to charge. Tried to start it with battery jumper. It began to start then backfired with smoke coming out fo engine and died. Called Battery company and they tried to jump car, it started engine racing. Upon removing jump cables, it died when it was put in gear. Company tried to jump again, started with engine racing then quit with smoke coming out of engine. Battery company said something wrong besides battery and suggested taking to mechanic. Should it go to Auto electrical mechanic or to general mechanic? Any idea what is wrong with it?

A general mechanic should be able to find the problem but there are Auto electrical techs for a reason. That said I'd recommend anyone reasonably priced, but a good reputation is more important than price.

Saturday afternoon... Are there any shops open before Monday morning? If not that gives us time to try to fix the car.

First step is to visit Autozone.com and select a 'vehicle repair guide' for your vehicle (these are free). Copy the following link into your address bar-

http://www.autozone.ro/shopping/vehicleSelect1.htm

If you already have a paper manual you don't need the online version from autozone.

Following instruction from the repair guide or manual, remove the battery and take to Advance Auto (Parts America). They will test and charge the battery for you. All chain stores will test the battery, I'm not sure which others offer free charging.

We will use this step to determine if the battery is good or bad. I suspect you a problem beyond the battery, but that is just my guess.

You may also have corrosion On and/or Inside the battery cables and terminals. The corrosion (can) actually bleed down the cables/terminals and creating an obvious voltage/current problem.

A quick test of the battery condition would be to turn the headlights on. Are they bright? If yes, turn on the heater fan. Does it run at normal speed?

Note- one of the main reason I offered the site with repair instructions is so you'd have instructions that include safety precautions. Wear eye protection when working with a battery, ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU MAY HAVE A SHORTING CONDITION THAT CAN CAUSE SPARKS.

Give me an update and we'll continue.

I am sure the battery is fried/dead. There is no lights, fan, window open/close, radio, nothing. I am physically unable to remove battery, it is very difficult to remove, under a lot of items etc. The battery people advise I must bring it to shop to have it checked. Would a bad battery cause racing engine on battery jump and smoke from engine? Thanks

A bad cable would be more likely.

What color was the smoke? Did it smell of burning/melting plastic or rubber?

No, the smoke was coming from engine area.

1993 Chev Lumina Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

Went to turn off car and it wouldn't turn off. The key just spun. I was thinking it was the cylinder lock, but have read that it could be in the steering column itself and that the cyl lock won't fix it. Suggested I replace the steering column with one from a salvage yard. Details: '93 Lumina Euro sedan; Black column; tilt wheel; automatic with O/D; cruise; no air bag. Thanks!

Hello, Inside the steering column the lock cylinder has a gear on the end opposit the key opening. This gear mesches with a mechanical device called a rack that actually actuates the ignition electrical switch via linkage.

Two possibillities here. The gear on the lock cylinder has a problem. Or, the more likely failure is the rack has broken. It is made of pot metal and I have replaced alot of them.

Your steering column can be repaired without replacing it. A lock smith might be your man to call. Or, ask your insurance agent who does theft recovery steering column repair in your area.

In my phone book business white pages I found a listing for "Steering Column Specialists."

Body shop repair rates are lower than a dealership service dept and you may want to call one of them.

Replacing the column is overkill in my opinion. If you are better tooled for replacing the column then thats your call.

I believe you can shop this on the phone.

Roger

Thanks for the response, Roger. I was thinking you were going to say that it probably wasn't the switch. What's the proper name for the "rack" you mentioned? I'm looking at a diagram and don't see a rack mentioned on the parts list. Appreciate your help. -John-

... Forgot to ask how much you think this repair will cost (or how many shop hours). It's a 93 with 240K on it. Runs great, but I don't have a ton of money to stick in it.

I estimate the repair to be less than $150.00. However, I am not aware of labor rates where you are. In my area it would be 1.5 hours labor plus parts and tax. The rack is cheap money....maybe $20.

The part name is the ignition switch actuator rack available at national chain parts stores.

Roger

Do you need additional input? If so, please advise. If not, please click on OK to finish up and that will close the question.

I thank you,

Roger

1991 Chev Lumina Engine   

My 1991 Chevy Lumina Euro stumbles at idle and on acceleration and while getting up to speed,it suddenly runs great.Lots of power. But, as soon as I stop or slow down for any reason it starts to stumble again. It continues to do this while accelerating and then suddenly it starts to run just fine. There is no set speed or time length when it does start to run fine. It's just all of a sudden. Like turning on a switch. Sometimes a few seconds to maybe a few minutes. Sometimes 20 mph, or 30mph, or 40 or 50. I never know.
My egr, tps, map sensor,idle air control valve are all new. Not more than a few months old. Plugs are maybe 8 months old. Wires are firing, getting plenty of fire.
Only thing I can figure is my injectors are in need of replacing.
Anybody have any ideas?

Hi, Have you flushed your fuel injectors. You just might need to. I'd recommend this first.

Next:

Test the fuel pressure. If it is low then injector performance would be effected.

If you can protect yourself against electrical shock try removing a plug wire (one at a time) when the condition is present and see what effect it has on the running of the engine. If worse, try another cylinder plug wire.

If no change check for a cracked spark plug on this cylinder. Look for carbon tracking down the outside of the spark plug porcilin. Verify this injector harness connector is firing the injector with a noid light during cranking. Leave the plug wire loose from the spark plug (plug installed). Reconnect the injector.

Run the engine for a few seconds and shut it off. Remove the spark plug and see if it is wet with raw fuel? Yes? Injector is working. No? Suspect injector is sticking or defective.

Roger

1991 Chev Lumina Engine   

1991 chev Lumina 3.4 5 spd. std. starts fine when cold but as soon as it warms up,about 5 min. running it starts running rough and the exaust has a rotten eag smell has no power

Best bet would be have it scanned for codes.
A good guess would be the CTS or coolant temp sensor. It measures the coolant or engine temp and regulates the air/fuel mixture accordingly. Some what like the mechanical choke system on an older carburetor. Ihe CTS make the air/fuel richer for initial startup and warm up but for normal operation it is too rich...thus the poor power etc.

Thank you for your response i will replace the coolant temp sensor today if that does't help get it scaned tomorrow,forgot to mention no service engine light,on the OBD1 system I assume there could still be codes

1990 Chev Lumina Engine Malfunction When driving When warm 

I have a 90 Lumina with a 3.1L. It misses at idle, acceleration and cruise. If it kicks down a gear its fine as is wide open throttle. The warmer it is, the more severe it misses/jerks. Sometimes it only starts missing once the engine warms up to operating temp. No engine codes or SES light. Any ideas? Thanks

Hello, How long since the spark plug wires were replaced, please?

How many miles on your car? Have you looked at the spark plugs for condition? In the darkness of night with the hood up, engine running, under hood light disabled, can you see spark jumping from the plug wires to the engine? You shouldn't.

Another trick you can try while the engine is running in the dark of night is to use a spray bottle to mist water on the plug wires to check for stray spark. You should not see any. Just spray a light mist, don't overdo it.

Roger

Hi Roger, good Sat night to you...the plugs and wires were replaced 10 mos ago when it was doing this same exact thing...I asked the guy who did the work what they did, and he just said "we just gave it a good tune up and adjusted what we could". They also replaced the Manifold Absolute Pressure (Baro sensor) since before, you could tap on it and it would be better for a little while...

"we just gave it a good tune up and adjusted what we could".....is too broad an answer. If you do not have a work order to list the parts that were installed I recommend misting the wires as described.

One other thing common to the 3.1L engine is the spark plug wire boots protected by metal heat sleeves on the firewall side of the engine can have carbon tracking down the outside of the plugs.

Roger

Most definitely, Ill mist the wires as you said its a very ingenious idea; I do know they installed the wires because I bought the parts and took them to them; however if you suspect a wire issue ill definitely mist them...what do you think could account for the fact it misses progressively worse as the outside temp increases? consistently, when its cool here like below 65 or when i first drive it it acts fine, then about 5-10 min later itll start missing...if i start it up and its warm , its noticeably much worse from the start, immediately. a friend of mine suggested also checking the mass airflow sensor (as well as the wires as you said) thanks alot...

A cracked spark plug acts up more when warm than cold. That's one possibility here.

The Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) will usually set a code and illuminate the check engine light if it faults.

When the engine is warmed up you may tap lightly on the MAF case to see if it has an effect on the engine's idle. If you try this be careful not to break the sensor's case.

Roger

ok, great...so 1) checking the plug wires as you said 2) check the plugs themselves 3) do the tap test on the Mass Airflow S. should be a good start it sounds like then... thanks alot Roger, you've been very helpful and knowledgeable...I hope you have a really good weekend, thats all the ??? i have aside from anything else you might suggest

1990 Chev Lumina Ignition System   

no start no crank signal an scanner replaced sensor and connector now have crank signal that stops after 2-3 seconds of cranking

Have you tested the ignition module?

Thoroughly inspect connector at module end.

Look for anything shorting, like a fuel injector or coil.

Also view the crank signal directly (isolated) to make sure it is not dropping out.

Have you tried the ECM tap test while viewing scanner data (engine cranking) to see if this reveals a bad computer (weak solder joints).

crank sensor does not drop out when isolated but still seems to drop out after extended cranking also engine seems to try to fire after I let off key (out of start mode into run mode if that makes any sense) I have replaced crank sensor and conn, ign. module and one coil that was cracked also ran another wire for module ground,

Any shorting fuel injectors?

what is the best way to test for short? I dont have a scope. will i need to remove upper intake (plenum)? also I found a burnt ground near where the crank sensor is. what grounds at the passenger side rear of engine? I hope I am not drawing this out to far or being a problem customer

You can measure the fuel injector ohms, a shorting injector will have low ohms. Compare to each other or post the results here.

This may be the computer ground, I don't remember for sure. Did the wire burn because of lack of insulation OR a short?

You are not a problem in anyway! Sorry for the slow response.

tested injectors at wiring harness ie three inj. one side of engine then three on the other side 4.5 to 4.7 ohms. maybe a little high? but no indication of short. the wire I was referring to I guess bI will replace if i can get to it or maybe tap in and add another grd. connection. After further inspection the insulation is bubbled going into the harness. I am not looking forward to tearing the wire harness apart to replace the wire. If I was sure where it terminated I would run a wire outside of nharness Thanks. not really a Question more a what do you think

I have repaired the ground wires still no start. Occasionly one or two cyls will fire sometimes pops through throttle body. crank signal wwhen viewed on scanner still seems intermittent, when isolated it has a steady ac volt output. could ecm be bad (no codes) also is it true you can unplug six pin at icm and bypass computer? I have an old celebrity with a 3.1 about the same year (i need to check year) could I try that computer? this thing is driving me nuts.

I think they will still fire without the computer but I don't know about unplugging the connector at the icm.

Can you get the ecm to set a code, unplug the TPS and crank the engine. Does it set a code?

I think you'll need to trace the ground wire and look for damage to other wires.

Have you done continuity checks from the ig module to the computer?

Does the fuel pump come on during initial key on?

Unplug the injectors and crank the engine. What happens with spark (or crank signal) now? This will let us know for sure if an injector is the problem.

You did rule out any pin/connector damage at the ICM... I know it is easier to say than do on these cars.

Visit partsamerica.com and search for a computer for your car. Then search for the celebrity. Is the part number the same?

unplugged tps cranked eng no code.found more loose and questionable grds and repaired, eng fires more but still no start. could a bad grd have hurt ecm? this system has more grnds than I have ever seen. still working on other tips but wanted to update info.

It is firing more? How long does it fire now?

Did you test use a known good replacemen module?

ECM damage is possible but easy to mistake.

the ign. module is new I'm not sure where to unplug injectors(they are under plenum) I did notice that when cranking eng oilpressure jumps around could this be dropping out ign signal I know the fuel pump relay is activated off oil pressure sensor signal. the engine will fire like it is trying to start then quit just as the crank signal drops out. I can get to two injectors I'll check those individually. Seems like it wants to fire on initial crank but continued cranking- no fire. the scanner(snap-on 2500) uses computer ground so that seems ok. Tempted to just replace ecm but hate to just be a parts changer.

It may be bad hard to test because some of the tests wrongly point to the ecm. You should be able to get a used one for a little bit of nothing.

I thought you were already able to test injectors. Were they unplugged when you tested before? If you can unplug at the main plug that would be fine.

Also unplug the coils, all three, and see if the crank signal still drops out.

By the way, you are not losing Bat Postive to coils or injectors when the key is in the crank position?

tested injs. individually 12 to 13 ohms. checked power to icm and injs. when cranking ok. noid light crank signal and spark are all intermittent. also oil pressure gauge jumps around when cranking. anymore ideas? Im in the process of checking crank sig from icm to ecm not sure whether to unplg at ecm or back probe.

another bit of info removed coils still intermittent crank sig noticed fuel pump voltage on sccannerwhile cranking is about3-4 volts starts to go up as cranking stops. sounds like a ground maybe? I guess voltage drop test on all ground cables is in order?

Yes try that, also fuel the fuel pump fuse and see if spark returns. I don't think it will but...

Does the voltage vary if you tap on the ecm while cranking?

fyi most of the orignal problem was crank sensor and grounds, found that when I wired on a new connector I had crossed wires. starts and runs great except the converter clutch sometimes doesn't release. another frustrating problem. thanks for all your help. I never thought a speed sensor was wire specific