Chev Malibu

2007 Chev Malibu Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have no tail lights or dash lights ( to view gauges and speedometer). I have signals and brake lights. The outage went out at same time. I do not know if it is a headlamp switch or sensor. I checked fuses and they look ok Thanks

Double check the tail light fuse. The dash light fuse is powered by the tail light fuse.

Do you have trailer hitch wiring? Do any of the tail lights retain water? These are common sources of tail light fuse failure.

Roger

No trailer, fuse ok, don't hold water

Please confirm the model year is 2007 and I will research wiring schematics.

Any remaining factory warranty here?

Roger

Car is not here at present, I will check fuse when it comes back. I don't think it is a fuse. I already checked them out. I don't have a manual in front of me,; where is the tail light fuse loacted and what size is it?

2000 malibu

Okay, 2000 Model. Back soon.

Roger

Hey, It could be as simple as the Prk Lamp Relay located in the underhood junction block.

For a copy of the schematic please advise your email address.

Roger

There is a Park Lamp Fuse 15 amp in the underhood junction block that factors here as well.

Roger

prk lamp relay, is it park lamp relay
Email is [redacted]

where is that located and is it expensive?

There will be an underhood junction block near the car's battery. Usually a cable will run from the positive post of the battery to the junction block.

There is a legend of the contents on or inside the lid of the block.

If the fuse is good you'll find a relay is about $10 at an auto parts store if you'd like to try one.

I'll email the schematic.

Roger

Thanks roger, I will try that and if it works; you will never hear from me again; if it doesn't, you will. It is my sons car and he drives at night with his blinkers on
Take care
DWS

If the information works for you please accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me. There should be an option to close the question or click on a button that says OK TO PAY MECHANIC.

If you need something further on this subject on this car please advise.

I thank you!

Roger

Roger I will go ahead and click OK so you can get paid, I have your email address if the relay doesn't work and we can troubleshoot

2003 Chev Malibu Electrical / Lighting Systems   

driver switch for passenger window stopped working when you tried to put it back up, it went dwn just fine. the switch on driver side was changed to another switch now the switch to passenger window works both up and dwn yet the dashboard, odometer and radio lites do not work very dim to nothing at all. what could have happened?

how long is the waiting period?

Good morning.
When did the dashboard lighting problem start? Was it before, at, or after the window switch replacement?
What happens when you adjust the dash light dimmer control?
Let me know.
Sterlingfixer

I noticed it last night.

I noticed the dashboard problem after the switch was switched and that was from this past weekend however, since I was renting a vehicle to go out of town I didn't noticed it until last night.

I tried dimming the lites and nothing happens it is pitch black.....doesn't go up or down/ dim or brite/ nada/zilch/ nothing.....

since there is no reply , please disregard.....thank you...

Hi,
I am back at my computer again.
There is a possibility that the dash light fuse blew out during the switch replacement. I recommend checking the instrument lighting fuse. It is most likely blown.
Best wishes,
Sterlingfixer

2000 Chev Malibu Ignition System Malfunction When stopped No pattern

I cannot turn the ignition switch over. It would appear that steering wheel did not lock. I tried to move the wheel back and forth to engage the lock but nothing happened.

Hi;
Sounds like the mechanism that locks the steering got jammed. Only way to fix the problem is to take the steering column apart. You will need a special tool to take the the steering wheel off. It's called a steering wheel spring compressor. Once the steering wheel is off you can then remove the key cylinder and see what is causing it to jam. Good Luck Les.

2000 Chev Malibu Ignition System   

after running for half hour and shutting off intermittently will not start for about a half hour. the other day it stalled out and would not start back up until the next day, at that point it ran for a bout 3 hours. fuel pressure is 50 psi . it has no codes.

Hello, What engine please?

Roger

3.1 engine

I recommend replacing the crankshaft position sensor. It is on the firewall side of the engine block about midway. You must be under the car to get this one. The use of a lift is a huge plus.

Look for one electrical connector and a single bolt size 8mm head on the sensor. The new part will give you perspective of what you are looking for.

A cool engine is best as you are working in a very cramped area. The transmission is right in your way.

Be careful with the old sensor. It is brittle. Remove the connector first, then the bolt. Gently rotate and pull the sensor out of the block. Take your time.

Lube the o-ring on the new sensor, insert the sensor in the block. Rotate and push the sensor until seated in the bloch. Align the mount tab hole, install the mount bolt and tighten just snug. Hook up the connector.

The best tool I have found to remove/install the sensor mount bolt is an 8mm ratcheting flex box-end Gearwrench. Sweet tool.

Roger

2000 Chev Malibu Electrical / Lighting Systems   

when the running lights are on the turn signals blink very fast the one side is bright and the other is very dim they both blink at the same time. sometimes they are both on like hazard lights in the console and they are very dim but steady they don't blink. the hazard lights work fine

Check the bulbs and the bulb holders. Especially if one of the bulbs was recently changed (since the problem occurred). It is also possible you have a bad flasher or ground.

checked all bulbs and holders changed flasher and checked all grounds still no change

Next is the turn signal switch itself. Unplug the turn signal switch and see if the indicator lights go out (when they shouldn't be on).

2000 Chev Malibu Ignition System   

ive put $1000 of parts these last 3 weeks the 3.1 dellimma head gaskets,manifold gaskets,fuel injectors,ign module,3 coils wires plugs throttle positioner reworked mass air,air filter,fuel rail regulater,and many others now it runs ok but when its in reverse it misses terable!!! whats up with that????

The first thing I would be looking at is the wiring. Reverse gear should perform as well as any other gear UNLESS you managed to cross a wire or two, The wires I would be concerned would be the backup related wires. You probably have one wrong or grounded.

i didnt go near the trans wiring just block up althou it probobly got antifreeze in the wiring and trans block exc

You have to clean it out as wiring with coolant can short out.Some trans wiring does go up the back of the engine/firewall area

Also did you get any oil/antifreeze in clutch area? That will be a problem also.

with a sealed unit like the malibu there aint even a dip stick it runs smooth threw the gears but soon as it gets in reverse it misses terible then you put it in drive and smooth again ive been a machanic for over 28 years and ive nevere had a poesested car like this 2000malibu fergie111

You are not alone check consumer affairs.com about late model malibu's in general!

1999 Chev Malibu Windows / Glass Sticking Happens sometimes No pattern

I noticed that ocassionally my driver's side power window would stick, when I wait less than 30 minutes, I'm able to close or open my window...today, however, it's been stuck for hours and I haven't been able to close my window...Is this going to cost me alot to get fixed?? ...Would it be better to go to the dealership or a good mechanic instead???

Hi,
Likely you have a bad power window motor. If you want a certain fix, take it to a mechanic while it is not working. I believe any good mechanic can repair this for you without difficulty. The price is likely for $150- $200 to repair. A dealership will typically charge 25% more than a good local mechanic.
Dale

1999 Chev Malibu Ignition System Malfunction When stopped Always

ignition switch will not turn. tried two of the original keys with no luck. had a third key made and again no luck. im in the process of removing the ignition switch and lock cylinder but im stuck with the small thre wire electrical connector and the ignition lock cable. how do i remove these items?? thanks in advance, A.L.

pull little tab up on 3 wire plud then unplug cable has a lock you have to push then pull out

Thanks, I'm on my way to give it a try.

let me know how it goes

1999 Chev Malibu Electrical / Lighting Systems   

the power windows don't work the a/c & heater fan don't work the check engine light is on car runs fine no fuses are blown.

Hello, Disconnect the connector from the HVAC blower motor. Start the engine and turn the a/c fan on high speed. Test for voltage arriving at the motor connector.

Access the driver's power window switch. Turn on the ignition key. Test for power and ground at the window switch.

What did you find?

Roger

where is hvac blower connector. both the a/c and power windows worked fine sunday 9/23 it as done this before put started working after a while.

The blower motor is under the right side of the dash. There is a sound insulation panel that needs to be removed. The motor has one connector.

Roger

there's no voltage to blower motor or power windows swicth

I'll get a wiring diagram to see what to look for. Power windows are usually powered by a circuit breaker.

Do the circuit breakers in the fuse box get warm if the key is on? That would indicate a short that has tripped the circuit breaker.

Roger

no the circuit breaker is not warm could there be a loose connect somewhere?

The power window switch should have power arriving at the switch on connector 2 pin C, a Brown wire. Is that where you checked for voltage with thye key on?

The circuit breaker is in the right I/P Fuse panel of the dash.

Roger

There is a 30 amp Hi Blo MOT fuse and a blower motor relay in the underhood junction fuse/relay box that send power on the purple colored wire to the blower motor.

Have you checked these?

Roger

the is not warm or hot

That's good. Did the wire colors at the related connectors help you know which wire to check for power?

Are all power windows inop? All four windows get their power through the driver's power window switch.

If you are confident that the circuit breaker is good but power does not arrive at the driver's window switch look inside the flex boot between the hinges for the driver's door. Expect to find a broken wire inside the boot. There may be one or more. Do not use butt connectors to repair. Splice, solder and tape where needed.

Roger

1998 Chev Malibu Engine   

I've had a bad knocing noise coming from under my hood. I can't say engine or what. I am a girl and don't know what the deal is. In the winter the nose was loud when I started my car, but as it warmed up, the noise when away. I figured my car was old. So the warmer months came and the noise was not as bad and completely went away when starting my car. Its summer now and the sound is really bad. It still does go away after about 10 mins. of running, but I need to get this noise problem fixed. My brother says it could be an oil pump or the lifters. If its either one, can you tell me around how much the repair would cost, so I don't get taken when going to get the repair done?

if it is a knocking it will be more than a lifter. lifters usually make a tapping noise instead.
If you can pinpoint exactly where the knock is coming from it will be more helpful as in the topside right or on the lower part of engine, this is what makes a difference
other than that it will be hard to give you an estimate. also what engine do you have and how many mile do you have on the engine
I suggest you get a basic oil change and have the mechanic to put in 40/30 wt oil
this should clear up the noise when you start the car and lubricate the rings a little better.

Ok, I will get my brother to give me more info on where the noise is coming from.
98 Malibu with a V6 engine and about 140,000. I had and oil change and I use 5w30. I know there's a 30 somewhere in the number. I'll check what it is to be exact.

he can use a auto stethescope to find the noise.
This is a special tool with a hose connected to it instead of the end piece and it allows you to listen to specific areas of the engine

1997 Chev Malibu Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When starting 

This car has a theft deterrent system that reads the ignition key. If the wrong key is used the fuel system shuts down.
Frequently the system will activate even though the correct key is being used. When it happens the driver has to sit for 20-30 minutes and then it will crank normally. Eventually it reaches the point that it will not crank at all. When that happens it is real expensive.
Recently, the red light that indicates the theft deterrent system is not operating came on and stayed on for several months. During that time we had no problems with it.
Can that system be disabled? How?

The system can be disabled. It is fairly complex and THE DEALER WILL NOT DO IT. You will need a bypass kit wired in. Most alarm shops should be able to help you or I can get a VATS similator for you for about $50. Email: [redacted]
for more information.

thanks for getting back to me. Please send me the procedure and information on the VATS.
Thanks.

"Wire one wire of the simulator to key on power", one to ground and the other to the computer data line. I be in touch with you regarding where to get the module.
Dale"

1997 Chev Malibu Ignition System   

Surges at idle and idles real rough. Random misfire code.

This is a 1997, Malibu, 4 cylinder, 200,000 miles.

Everything has been checked out per the book. Plugs are new [oem platinum tip]; had a map sensor code [new map sensor in]; cam sensor and crank sensor ok; there was a bulletin about build-up that will affect the cps [that is ok]; new catalytic converter. The service tech has checked everything he knows to check and can't find the problem. It is passing a good bit of raw gas into the catalytic converter. Any ideas.

One longshot but is it possible. The low coolant level sensor is bad and I haven't replaced it yet. I do have it unplugged. The problem started well before this sensor went bad. Long, long shot but is it possible this could have an effect?

What is the code that you are recieving?
The obd11 should pinpoint a cylinder.
It is a four cylinder and the misfire must be very noticable is it.
how random is it?
I need to know all the codes your mechanic
got from the scanner.

The code they are working on is 300, random misfire. He didn't have the numbers down but they also had codes on the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor. Those two sensor checked out good.
Now they say the valve timing is definitely off and they want to go into the front cover. Seems to me if it jumped time the misfire would not be random. This car is supposed to have a gear set-up rather than a chain or belt.
You asked how random is it. I can't answer that. It sits at idle and surges. It is like you had one foot on the gas and the other on the brake and kept pushing the accelerator and letting off. Once it moves off idle and begins to accelerate it seems to run fine.

See if you can get those code numbers, the sequence of numbers are very important.
Many codes can mean many things and depending on which codes accompany them.

1995 Chev Malibu Windows / Glass  Happens always Always

The car seems like it is bottoming out when you go over the smallest bumps. It is loud, and seems to be hitting pretty hard. The shocks, and motor mounts have been replace, and everything possible checked, but it still does it. Can you help me?

Could you verify what you are driving,
Year?
Make?
Model?

I usually try to duplicate the noise by bouncing on the car, finding a bump that I can pass over, then pinpoint the noise with a second person. I have seen everything from a fender, to a loose jack causing such noises. I may be able to help more if you can give me a more accurate identification of the car.
Dale

1971 Chev Malibu Ignition System   

My 71 chevele was running fine- while taking off from a stop i heard a backfire and the car now won't start. I'm not getting spark. Changed cap/rotor/points/condensor but there are 2 wires connected to the points besides the one on the screwdown- 1 is the condensor (red)the other (black)protrudes thru the bottom of the distributor- it is hanging free, where does it belong?

Hi, What engine please? Do you have a black wire running from the points to the negative post on top of the coil?

Please advise,

Roger

Its a 350, the negative terminal on the coil had a bare clip on it and the black wire coming from the points looks like it may have fallen or broken off, but when i tried to connect to the coil the car still won't start and the coil gets real hot.

Sorry shouldve mentioned i tried changing the coil too,its an Accell 8140 12V barrell type connected externally to the firewall

With the key Off connect the black wire from the points to the negative side of the coil.

Remove the distributor cap. Disconnect the secondary wire from the top center tower of the coil to prevent electrical shock should the coil fire.

Verify the points are set and that the distributor rotor turns when the engine cranks. Determine if when the engine cranks there is spark across the contacts of the points.

Do you see spark across the points contacts?

Please advise,

Roger

Do you have a multi-meter to test voltage with?

Ground the distributor side of the ignition coil with a jumper. With the key On measure the voltage on the ignition coil (switch side) and a good ground. You should see a reading of between 5.5 and 7 volts.

While cranking the engine you should see a reading at least 9 volts.

What are your findings?

Roger

Time where I live for bed. Goodnight.

Roger

i do not have a multi-meter, but i will try these other things tomorrow and get back with you as its also 1am here in ny- g'nite, mike

I'll be looking for your findings and we'll work to see what the next step should be.

Roger

Roger- with cap off and + & - wires hooked to new coil, the rotor is turning and the points set- they are firing a spark- it doesnt seem strong or consistent- but it is sparking

That's okay. Let's see what we have.

Put it back together except for the high voltage wire to the coil tower.

Using an insulated tool try holding the coil wire about 1/4" above the coil tower and have a helper crank the engine. Does spark jump the gap? Did the engine start or try to start?

Roger

OK i tried that and get absolutely no spark to the coil at all

Okay, connect the coil wire to the coil and unplug it from the distributor. Hold the disconnected end about 1/4" from a metal surface and crank the engine again. Be sure to use an insulated tool to prevent shock. Does the spark jump the gap? If not, replace the coil wire and try again.

ok- tried that and get a constant spark

sorry- i should've said i got spark without changing the coil wire

Spark is there? Pull a plug wire off any spark plug accessible and hold it near metal with a 1/4" air gap.

Crank the engine and check for spark from the plug wire to metal.

If you have spark here connect the wire back to the spark plug and see if the engine will start, or tries to.

If no spark, either the button on the inside of the distributor cap is missing or doesn't touch the metal tab on the rotor bug to transfer the spark. Or, the rotor is bad.

Any luck?

Roger

Roger- I'm becoming quite frustrated with this thing, I just picked the car up in January, its in great shape, and was running fine. I am not an auto mechanic but thought i'd play and learn with a car like this. I feel like I changed most of the parts of the ignition. If I or we can't figure this thing out, i'll probably have it towed to a shop this week. People i know who know cars tell me to have it changed to Electonic ignition. Definitly no spark from distributor to coil but definite yellow to whitish blue spark the other way- what could that indicate???

both the rotor and cap were brand new, i changed them out again just in case- i see no spark from plug wire, but these wires have 90 degree boots on them with about an inch of rubber between contact and plugs, so i cant be 100% sure without cutting off a boot

Try inserting a screwdriver into the boot of the disconnected plug wire and hold the screwdriver metal shaft near metal. Crank the engine. Does the spark jump this way?

Roger

yes a spark, meaning 1- shouldn't it keep sparking? it dont

Not a continuous spark. Just once per cylinder every two revolutions of the distributor.

Hold the accelerator to the floor and crank the engine. This will help the engine to start if it has become flooded.

Roger

Nothin- I smell gas and it wants to start- just wont fire over. I pulled all the plugs yesterday and they all seemed a little fouled w/gas residue- probably from trying to start so many times and flooded out the cylinders- i cleaned them all up let them bake in the sun for a bit- checked gaps and reinstalled them. Could it be something else besides the ignition or is that 1 way spark w/the coil still the question. The car sits alot- only drive on weekends. That gas is probably a month old by now.

You could try a short shot of starting fluid down the air intake. Leave the air cleaner on in case of a backfire. Go easy on the accelerator.

Roger

Bed time again. Goodnight.

Roger

thanks tried that also- no luck, any other ideas? havva g'nite

Has the distributor turned in the engine block? That would effect the timing and make starting difficult.

Any chance the fuel tank has moisture condensation?

Roger

it stays garaged- i'll try some dry gas, the distibutor hasn't been touched, i stopped at the station down the road- the guy says it may have jumped timing since all my spark sounds correct, he's talkin towing it in and possibly timing chain- i dont think its that serious but i dont know how to check timing, i have a light and have to go to work this evening, guess i'll read more up on it in my Haynes manual this eve.

Remove #1 spark plug. Use a breakover bar and socket to turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand until the timing mark on the crank shaft pulley reads "0" (TDC) and the distributor rotor is pointing at the #1 spark plug wire position on the distributor cap.

The #1 piston has to be on the compression stroke and at the top of the cylinder bore. One way I do this is to use a plastic drinking straw inserted in the spark plug hole so the piston can push it until I see no more movement.

If the #1 piston is all the way up, the rotor points at #1 spark plug wire position on the distributor cap and the the crankshaft timing mark reads "0" the engine is mechanically in time.

If when the piston is all the way up the rotor points 180 degrees out from the #1 plug wire the piston has come up on the exhaust stroke. The crank will have to make one more revolution to be the compression stroke for #1 cylinder.

You can do this without towing it anywhere.

Roger

Wow- That sounds a little deep for me- Where do i connect a socket to the crankshaft? front of engine main pulley? turn it clockwise, then do i need the timing lite to see the "0", and which mark should it line up with?. should i do this with the dist.cap off so i could see where the rotor points? if i can figure this out and it isn't mechanically in time- does that mean i need to adjust timing or i need a timing chain?

Yes, use a socket on the bolt that holds the crankshaft pulley on...to turn the crankshaft by hand with a breakover bar handle. Do not turn the engine backwards (counter-clockwise).

Timing light is not needed/used for this action.

You've seen the timing mark/groove cut into the crankshaft pulley haven't you? It's what you look for when you are using your timing light to see where the mark falls on the scale that is attached to the front cover of the engine.

If looking straight down through the small space between the back of the water pump and the front cover on the engine you should see the timing mark scale. If dirty just wash it with a shot of brake clean solvent spray.

Some engines have the scale mounted at 2:00 o'clock on the engine front cover above the crankshaft pulley.

You can do this with the dist cap on or off to line up the timing mark on the timing scale.....you just need to know where #1 is. You can mark it so when the cap is off you can see it, or remove the cap and peek when you are ready to check.

Bear in mind the rotor may not be pointing absolutely perfect at the #1 wire terminal. But, it will be close enough to give you confidence, or off far enough to raise concern.

This procedure checks the mechanical timing of the engine and distributor, not the ignition timing when the engine runs. That comes later.

If things don't line up correctly the engine may have jumped time and need a chain and gears replaced. If things do line up we need to diagnose the No Start cause further.

Roger

Thanks for being so patient with me Roger- If you lived on LongIsland i'd just pay you to come fix it for me. One more question about this procedure- we're talking clock-wise from my perspective looking at the engine as a clock from the grill? so i'd be turning my ratchet handle towards the right if pointing straight up?- just wanna be sure,thanks

Yes, you are correct. This is the same direction the starter turns the engine.

I'm glad to help. You can do this.

Roger

Hi Roger, i had a busy day, so not much time for car, but i did the procedure you spoke of and also read all about it in Haynes- it just mentioned putting car in neutral when turning crankshaft, which i did- not sure if needed. So at TDC- crankshaft mark at "0", straw out on compression-stroke, the rotor was pointed directly at the #1 wire position marker i made at bottom of distributor. I'm guessing that means my timing chain is "In Order" and i didn't jump timing. After i put it all back together and tried to start- the damn thing sounded like it was ready to fire over, but didn't. I feel like we're close and just missing something small here. I might add that when i tried removing key from ignition i couldnt, and i noticed that the old column shifter which is now a center console, wasn't exactly all the way left, when i banged it over a little towards park, key removed and i thought "Oh Gosh" could that've been It?? No Luck- Dam! What else could it be? Fuel issue? I wanna drive her!

When is the last time this ride had the fuel filter in the carb replaced? The filter is in the bore just past where the fuel supply line connects.

Note the position of the spring and the direction that the fuel filter was inserted into the bore as you remove the filter.

Be careful not to strip or cross threads upon reassembly.

Roger

actually i just had this here carburetor put on about 6 weeks ago- Holley 600 w/electronic choke- took the place of a manual. It was running fine, I didn't do that job myself- I had a real mechanic do it, and he changed out some of the plumbing up front- so i'm assuming that pretty red fuel filter up front is new.

it was a brand new carb. not rebuilt

Do you still have the original coil you could try? I can't help thinking anything after market is suspect now.

This engine should have started and ran on starting fluid until the shot ran out.

Roger

i'll try that in mornin-do you think i should change plugs/wires? maybe i'll call the dude who installed carb. he's kinda far away though- probly won't make a house call. get back to ya

I hesitate to recommend plug wires. My thinking keeps going back to the egnine backfiring and then it quit. True a wire came off the coil, but what component would fail during that event?

So far we haven't moved the distributor. We may have to as I no longer have confidence the timing was to spec when the engine last started and ran.

Roger

when the guy changed the carb. he timed it to specs but when i took it for a testdrive it backfired 3 times and wasn't running or idling right, so he re-timed it to run/idle a little (richer?/higher?), but to me it felt better and was running and idling where it didnt feel like it was going to stall at a light..since then it ran fine without backfiring and sounded as if it were idling nicely to me although i don't have a tach in the car as its mostly stock and although it sounds mean/tuff it has a stock cam in it. i checked the engine block#'s and it looks as its a 350cc engine from a '72 Impala. i called him this morning told him al i've/we've done so far -he told me it sounds like i flooded out the cylinders and to remove all the plugs again and drain the oil, change the oil and filter cause it sounds like its got gas in the oil, dry out the plugs or change them. i pulled out all 8 plugs again this afternoon and they were again all fouled up w/gas- i drained the oil which poured like water and stunk of gasoline big-time. i left the drain plug out and all the plugs out until i get home after midnight tonight. he seemed pretty confident the car would start up after i did this- we'll see and if so why would that occur?

Cranking the engine means fuel is being supplied but not burned. If the accelerator was pumped the problem gets worse. The fuel will slip past the piston rings and wind up in the crankcase oil pan.

I hope I have not led you down the wrong path. Hard to hit the mark when I can't be there.

Roger

Roger, Im going to find out shortly, or know by morning if this works. If so- you didnt lead me on the wrong path- I've learned a ton in the past week, and proving the car was mechanically in time with TDC was a great lesson, and probably saved me from having it towed to a guy who could've charged for the tow and timing chain. I'll keep ya posted- Mike

Mike, you have done well throughout this process and I commend you. You will have a sense of pride and a story to tell when this engine starts back up.

Roger

Roger, Thanks- I stayed up till 3am, everything was dry. New oil, dry/gapped plugs. Tried to fire it up this morning to no avail. Only cranked it 1 or 2 times,n sounded closer to starting than ever b4 - didnt want to fill cylinder and new oil back up with gas. I called the guy who installed the carb, and he's goin to make a quick house-call tomorrow morning to check it out. maybe the carb is dumping too much fuel, and he is familiar w/it, so i'll let ya know what he finds- cause at this point i'm stumped- You're a great teacher though and i thank you for your detailed explanations and votes of confidence.

When starting the engine cold a common method is to press the accelerator to the floor one time and let up to set the choke. Do you do this?

Since this carb has an electronic choke (could that be an electric choke?) the choke should warm electrically and begin to open without waiting for heat from the exhaust manifold.

Once the choke has set the engine should start right up and run at an idle speed faster the normal. After running a few minutes a tap on the accelerator should release the fast idle cam that was raised mechanically by the choke. Normal idle is obtained.

But, if the carb has a problem raw gas could be seeping into the intake causing a long crank time while fuel in the float bowls refills and raw fuel from the leak (if there is one) makes for a flooded engine before you realize what has happened.

Hope your installer checks things over with care.

Let's roll,

Roger

sorry i haven't gotten back to you in a few, but the quack who did the carb-job for me never showed, never called, he turned out to be pretty un-dependable. I went to see the guy i bought the carb from and after speaking to him i noticed the choke door or butterfly flap on mine was jammed shut. Hence the over-dumping of raw fuel. I freed it up and he told me to remove all the plugs and crank the engine to blow out any possible gas in the cylinders - i did that, and there was plenty. i let it sit open for 48 hours without the plugs, cranked it a few more times. Then re-inserted the plugs, changed the wires for good measure to a nice set of Accell's. I reinserted the plugs tonight, strapped open that butterfly door valve to give it lots of air and the car turned over. I then got it running albeit a little rough as it could probably use some fine tuning of that new carb/choke, maybe a timing which im not sure how to do- i never moved the distributor. I set the points to make it run a little better thru that door in dist.cap. and now i just took the car for a ride. Think i'll dump that oil once more- maybe put in some sythetic? to coat those rings well, in case they been runnin on gas. Otherwise i can drive the car to a reputable mechanic now. I wanna thank you for all your time, i learned alot from you and i do feel real good about it. Even though i probly didnt need them i learned how to change and set points,cap,rotor condensor, and that TDC lesson was great. If i have a problem in the future- i'd like to hook up with you again, if you can tell me how to do that. Thanks again for everything- You were great!! Sincerely, Mike

You are getting pretty handy with your car Mike. These lessons learned will help you for a long time to come.

Your engine ignition timing changed when you set the points. The best way to set the points is by using a dwell meter. The correct setting is 30 degrees with the engine cranking. Then rechecked with the engine running.

Once the points are set the timing can be set as needed.

Should you need my help on something in the future just ask for me when you post your question.

To close the question just click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger