Installed new clutch,pressure plate,throwout bearing,clutch master cylinder and clutch slave in my 1988 chevy Nova with a 1.6liter eng. and the now it will only start in first and reverse gears. Also the gears are hard to engage can hear some scraping noise when engaging gears.
Bruce Kit -
If everything was assembled properly, first look at transmission mounts to ensure they are good.
Your symptoms sound like the clutch is not completely disengaging. Bleeding all the air out of the clutch/master/slave system is a bit of a pain, and doing it over and over again is not unheard of, to get it right.
New User -
Bruce, i think you are correct, the mechanic who did the work tried to convince me that the system was self bleeding but the repair manual says that when any parts like those that i mentioned is replaced, you must bleed the system and you have convinced me that the problem lies there. What about it only starting in reverse and first gear?
Bruce Kit -
Self bleeding clutches and self adjusting brakes do not always work that way.LOL
Sometimes they require a little help.
I am guessing your mechanic bumped the neutral saftey switch out of adjustment. A simple 'readjust' type fix.
1986 Chev Nova All Part Groups Malfunction When driving No pattern
Mickey0663 Asked -
I was driving and car cut off. It wouldn't start back up, no power, anything. I changed the fuses leading to the battery and it started. Tried to drive it and it stopped again. It doesn't do anything. Can you help?
Mickey0663 -
This just started. Everything was fine until yesterday. I get no power at all.
bamaredneck -
check battery connections if not start shaking wires to alt battery and starter one may have a break
Changing the lock cylinder on steering column is a little difficult requiring a few specialized tools.
First you require a steering wheel puller. After you remove the horn button, remove the large nut and remove the stering wheel.
The next tool you will require is a 'lock plate removal tool) It is a cylinder shaped nut that screws down on the threaded part of the column and has an inverted 'U' shaped bar that presses down the lock plate.( the disc with slots around the perimeter)
At the center is a "C" shaped clip that you have to pry out. Release the lock plate tool, the clip and plate will come up as it is pushed up by the spring below.Remove tool, clip and plate. The turn signal switch is now exposed. Remove the screw holding the turn signal lever, and the three screws holding the turn signal switch. (Battery disconnected?) Gently pry the switch aside leaving wires attached.
Look at replacement lock tumbler. About 3/4 down, there is a small spring loaded tab.
Look in the column, for the tab on orig switch. It will be in s slot (might be partially covered by a bit of casting flash)
With a small narrow screwdriver, press down on the tab, while gently pulling out the old tumbler. The new one just presses in, untill the tab clicks into place. Reverse assembly above with steering wheel last.
Sound difficult? Not really...the two specialized tools required are cheap, and takes about an hour, which you should pay a shop to do if you decide not to tackle yourself.An hour in the average shop is about $85 ?
1969 Nova 454 30 over. Crate motor with less than 2500 miles on it. Everything is new…including the alternator and battery that both were just tested and are fine. If the engine is cold it fires right up every time. If the engine is warm on occasion (not every time) does not start or turn over at all. Only a loud and familiar click is heard (battery still tests at 100%). If the engine is warm and the headlights are on it will never start. If the engine is cold and the headlights are on it fires right up. Btw, also has ceramic coated headers (would think protecting overheating of starter?). Also will start right up when jumped to another car every time.
Bruce Kit -
Sounds like the starter solenoid. A reman starter would help, but the best thing would be one of those mini high Torque Starters from companys like Powermaster, MSD, Proform etc.Aprox $150-250 will get a decent one.
You are right about the ceramic headers controlling heat. Several companys also offer 'blanket' type insulation to keep the heat off the starter
New User -
It does have a very new mini high Torque Starter on it (about a year old 2500 miles same crate motor), but I cant tell who manufactured it. It was already on the car when I bought it. Still the solenoid possibly even though high torque and new?
Bruce Kit -
I work for the third biggest speed shop on the planet and have seen some good ones and
some I would not ever use.The no name chinese ones hardly last...I try not to sell them.
I tried putting a paper clip in one of the two holes to release the tumbler, trying either hole and trying two paper clips and still cannot pull the tumbler out. Had the key in and on accessory.
Right now no key is needed to start the car and any chevy key turns the ignition on as well.
Am I S.O.L?
Now what?
Les -
Hi;
On some of the older GM models you need to have the key on the on position for the tumblers to come loose. Make sure you have the key in it ( the original ) and push in the pin and wiggle it out. I have also found from past experience a paper clip is not sturdy enough. Using a small drill bit does a better job. Good Luck Les.
New User -
I tried your suggestion and on all ignition positions. Tumbler still does not come out. There are 2 pin holes. I tried either pin hole in each position. I may not have the correct key since any key starts the car up. Any other sugestions?
New User -
hi again
if you dont have your original key, then you are going to have to buy a new ignition switch.
good luck les
Les -
"hi again
if you dont have your original key, then you are going to have to buy a new ignition switch.
good luck les"
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