Chev S-10 Blazer

2007 Chev S-10 Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Truck cut off it crank ,but don`t start,no horn,lights or wiper funtioning

check all fuses and fuseable links at battery and starter

2002 Chev S-10 Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction  

Normally, when I turn my headlights on, or when they come on automatically, my radio display would dim and my dash lights would come on (gauge lights, radio buttons, climate control, etc). Now when my headlights are on, my radio display turns off and none of the gauge lights come on. I suspect it is the body control module (BCM) or a related connection. Does this seem right, and can you tell me where the BCM is located?

Sounds like a dash dimmer or dash light fuse problem. Can you turn the dash lights bright with the dimmer? Do they flicker at all? The fuse should light up a test lamp on either side when the headlights are on.

Thanks for your quick response. No, the dash lights can't be turned bright and can't even be turned on. Normally they come on with the headlights, but I can turn the dial all the way up and down and nothing happens. They don't flicker at all. I'm pretty sure the problem is related to fuse 12 on the IP fuse block. It's the one labeled "ILLUM" and is said to control interior lights. I put my volt meter on both sides of this fuse and couldn't get any voltage reading when the headlights were turned on. The fuse is not blown. Also, in a similar, I pulled this fuse and turned the headlights on, and the radio display turned off.

Oh, and one other portion of this problem that I forgot to mention is that the my headlight reminder dinger no longer works--this is, if I leave the headlights on and turn the car off and open the door, there should be a diner until iI turn the headlights off, and there is not. Thanks

Check fuse #5, 10A in the instrument panel fuse box. It should be hot on both sides when the park or headlamps are on. If not, then you likely have bad headlamp switch. If the fuse is blown replace it. If all is OK and powers up, check fuse 12 again. It should power up and dim with the dimmer switch. If not, either a bad headlamp or dimmer switch.

Hope this helps....the dinger is on this same circuit.

Fuse #5 has power; when it is pulled, the back-lights for the window and lock controls go out. Fuse #12 does not have power when the head/park lamps are on. Using the headlamp switch, the headlamps will turn on and the window and lock back-lights will come on. do you think it could still be a bad headlamp switch? I am getting the impression that you don't think it is the BCM, have you ruled this out, and if so why?

The wiring for the dome lights runs through the BCM, but the dash dimmer lights do not. The wiring for the dimmer lights goes through the light switch to fuse 12. If there is no power to fuse 12, it must be either the headlight switch, the fuse box or the wire in between.

Ok. Thanks for the reply. I will work on this within the next couple of days and let you know how it turns out. Thanks again!

Fine

Hi. I did some testing on my switch. Can you get back with me as to the pinout so that I know which wire is related to my problem? It is a 10 pin connector with a blank spot on the 6th pin. Thank you.

These diagrams are a bit confusing. The BCM is connected to the park lights, but is not used for normal operations. Here is the overview.

Pin B at the headlamp switch should be Orange and hot at all times. It is fed by a 20a PARKLP fuse under the hood.

Pin A should be light blue and is the output to the park lamps. It should be hot whenever the switch is on headlight or parklight position. (with the switch connected) This wire goes to fuse 5 and park lamps.

Pin K (dark green) is the output for illumination. It goes to fuse 6 and 12. When the park lights are on, it should have a varying amount of power depending on the dimmer position. If there is no power output here and the other tests have passed, the switch is bad.

The other pins are not involved in your problem.

2002 Chev S-10 Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Fuel gauge not working replace the fuel pump assembly module which included new fuel level sending unit and it runs fine. The fuel gauge is not working, low fuel light stays on, and check engine light stays on.

Hello, Did you have a fuel guage problem before replacing the in tank assembly?

Have you had the codes read for the check engine light issue? Most auto parts national chain stores will read the codes without charge. Call ahead to confirm this service is free of charge.

When you get the codes write them down and tell me what they are so we can map a plan.

Roger

Yes had the fuel gauge problem which why I got the parts to change the fuel sending unit and fuel level sending unit in the first place but when my husband went to drop the tank it was heavier than he expected and he ended up breaking off the plactic parts where the hoses connect to the top part of the fuel pump assembly module so I had to order the new assembly unit which came with another new fuel sending unit, float, etc already attached.

My son took it to a friend to have the codes read but all it said was to add coolant. My son is back out of state now and the closest Autozone which may or may not have the coding service is about 50 miles away. I live way out in the country not easy to find anybody to read the codes.

I went out and pulled the fuse to the instrument panel today and noticed that when I did that the fuel gauge would move slightly above empty but when I put the key in the ignition (not turning it at all) the fuel gauge auto drops to below empty again and won't move.

I really love my Blazer it has been a good dependable vehicle just a little irritating the gauge not working and the lights on.

By the way when I pulled the Eng 1 fuse to check that one the check engine light went off but I haven't started it to see if it is going to come back on or not just turned the key on.

I just went out and started it and the check engine light did come back on and stay on. My husband has been looking at the wiring diagrams I printed up for him at Michelan (only had 1 week access) and discovered the coolant gauge and fuel gauges are on the same circuit so he said he is going to try to trace out the circuit before leaving for the week. He said usually he could put water in the radiator and the check engine light would go off but it isn't working anymore. However the temperature gauge does move although rather it is reading right I have no idea.

Thank you so much for your help.

Please check fuses too.

Roger

Replaced the Eng1 and Gauges fuse didn't fix the problem. Husband is about to trace the wiring and look for bad places or a bad ground. Thanks for your help so far.

Any news on the wiring tracing?? Does the gas guage read full all of the time?

Roger

It is fixed it turned out to be one of the wires that go from the transmission to the fuel tank. Check Engine light is on but going to change the oil next weekend to see if that fixes that. Thanks so much for your help.

2001 Chev S-10 Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens sometimes No pattern

My 2001 S-10 Blazer has electronic 4WD switch mounted on dashboard. When I push 4Hi, it may or may not engage. It sometimes engages but will not disengage. I have returned to Dealer 3 times and they say they can't find anything wrong. When I push button, I can hear clicking noise in right side of dash, but no engagement. 4Hi button will flash a few times and then return to 2WD.

Hello, has this problem occured regardless of whether the vehicle is: PULLING/ACCELERATING, CRUISING/LIGHT LOAD, or COASTING at the time you press the 4HI button? And have you experienced any of these events while road testing with a technician in the vehicle to see you duplicate the complaint? (You should be the driver!)

I respect any repair technician who won't work on something until he verifies the complaint and knows how to duplicate the symptom. It's the only way to verify the repair he'll do has fixed the trouble.

Your trouble sounds like it is an electrical one. But, until you can get the Blazer to act up and show itself to have problems, any guess a technician makes can cost you and may miss the mark. It's your money, tread lightly till you get something you agree you should invest in for a repair path.

Respectfully,

Roger

Hello? Will you please update this question status?

Thanks,

Roger

Are we finished here? Please update.

Thanks,

Roger

Hello?, Please update this query!

Thanks,

Roger

Please take the time to update/close this question. I hope to provide the help you asked for. Please update.

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, I've asked repeatedly for an update here. Won't you please reply?

Thanks,

Roger

Still need help? Ready to close this question? Please update.

Thank you,

Roger

My account was charged back in August.
You should have received your money.

Thank you for the reply. I'll alert All-Parts and see if they'll take this question off my screen. All-Parts does not pay me unless the customer accepts my answer, or, sixty days of inactivity on the customer's part has transpired complaint free.

Regards,

Roger

2000 Chev S-10 Blazer Drive Train / Driveline Vibration When driving Always

The vehicle has a vibration which is noticed at 58mph and higher. I have had the vehicle checked by the dealership with no luck in repairing the vehicle.
So far we have replaced the rear bushing and seal in the transmission, replaced with two drive shafts (out of totaled vehicles) new u-joints, two new sets of tires, rotors turned, front alignment, replaced differential with one out of totaled vehicle. Now the dealer wants to pull the rotors and states they might be out of ballance....I give up...Cost so far is $1,800.00 in trying to get the vibration out. It's really bad at 65mph and feels like its at my feet and traveling to the rear of the vehicle. Please help.

Hello, I need some thinking information...

Is this a two wheel drive or four wheel drive? What engine and transmission? Can you effect the vibration by driving in a different gear? Has a second vehicle followed this one and seen this vibration shaking the vehicle? What do they see? Can the vibration be duplicated on a lift? Will shifting to NEUTRAL stop the vibration?

I'd check all the above, the motor mounts, the engine flywheel, look for mud/dirt stuck to the wheel rims and I still haven't suggested you replace anything! Will this shop ever get the idea that when you find the cure, the first $1800 should come off the bill?

Each time someone wants to "try this" and no repair is the result, they should have to put the vehicle back the way they started unless you agree to pay for their guess and hold them harmless. In the shop I retired from we showed the customer what we found and why we suggested the fix we offered. We gave them the old parts that came off.

Try contacting the Chevrolet Zone Representative for service in your area. He will meet with you, can call other dealers that may give light to your needs and in some cases even participate paying a percentage of the repair costs through a good will account he has control of. It won't cost to meet with him and I believe your service manager should welcome the extra muscle as long as he does not perceive you are filing a "ZONE COMPLAINT" against his dealership.

Your thoughts? Can you get tough? They know they'll never sell you another Chevy product if they don't step up. Get serious, be fair, be firm.

Roger

Thanks for the response. Here's what I know so far. We have placed the vehicle up on the lift and the vibration is not felt at any of the speeds. I have had someone follow to see if they could notice the vehicle shaking, but no luck.

The vehicle is a two wheel drive vehicle and it has the 4.6 engine and the automatic transmission. I'm not sure which one, sorry. Just yesterday I had the vehicle in for a front wheel alignment. While it was in the air, we placed the vehicle in drive and ran it up to speed and nothing happened. I also had them to check the lower ball joints, good shape. While driving the vehicle, the steering wheel does not shake but I can feel the vibration slightly. The dash and doors, seats and center console shake. While driving the vehicle we have ran it up to speed and then take it out of gear, the vibration remains as the speed drops until about 55 mph then becomes less. Also, while driving at 70mph on the interstate, it will be vibrating and will go almost away and then come back.
I have tried to get the dealer to work with me on this from the beginning but they want me to leave the vehicle with them and let them continue to guess the problem, replace parts and me pay for that. I told them I would not do that, so I called Chevy and asked for assistance. I asked that they have the regional person step in to assist but now even the Chevy people want call me back. I purchased the vehicle at 30,255 miles and have had it for two years. I have placed alot of highway miles on it as it is my work vehicle. I now have 121,000 miles, but the vehicle still looks new and I have had it serviced regularly. I have my original shop statements of taking it to the dealer for a vibration at 35,850 miles and they said there was nothing wrong with the vehicle and that it was probably the tires. Well dumb me, I went along with it. I'm not asking them to repair the vehicle for free, all I want is Mr. Goodwrench to find the problem and then I will pay for the repair, but I don't feel it's fair for me to pay for them to guess what the problem is at my expense. Any thoughts or points of contact at Chevy would be apreciated.

Vibration at speeds above 50mph are common to be coming from the rear of the vehicle. Is there a dynamometer in your area to run this Blazer on?

The Customer Contact telephone number for Chevrolet in the USA is [redacted] . In Canada the number is [redacted] (English)and the Canadian Web site is www.gmcanada.com.

I also find the www.mygmlink.com appealing for an owner to surf for help.

When your vehicle ran on the lift were the wheels allowed to extend the limit of the suspension, or, was it supported by the rear axle housing and front control arms so that drive line inclination could be observed? I wonder if the output shaft on the transmission has wear that the drive shaft gets hung-up on as it telescopes in and out on the splines due to the rear axle suspension up/down travel.

Has the drive shaft been balanced? The inclination angle been compared to specs? Could any fluids be inside a wheel? (Fix-a-flat or similar product)

I would write to Chevrolet and certify the letter with return receipt and delivery confirmation. A paper trail is easier to track and follow up on than a phone call.

And in thirty years I've turned a bunch of brake rotors on a brake lathe but never balanced even one!

One last thought..Have the tires been spin balanced while mounted on the vehicle or just on a tire balancer off the vehicle?

Regards,

Roger

Hello again, Excuse me but did you intend to release this question so that other technicians can answer? That is what happened and of course I won't be given credit for my input.

If you really meant to accept my answer so that I may be paid, please give it another try and select the button that will close the question and allow me to be paid.

If I see that the question is again released for others to answer, I'll stand aside and wish you well.

Thank you,

Roger

Okay, I see you have again rejected my input and released the question for others to try to help. I'll stand aside. I'm sorry you are not satisfied with my effort.

Thank you,

Roger

There is a technical service bulletin that may apply. Will need your VIN- 17 character vehicle identification number.

Hi, I have the vehicle number but how and where do I locate the Technical Service Bulletin? If there is one, why dosen't the GM dealership know about it? Any ideas?

Thanks

It's preliminary information. I assume (or maybe guess is a better word) it's gm's way of saying this is being reviewed and may become a tsb. And for whatever reason they want vin's entered, perhaps to determine if manufacture date, location, engine configuration, etc apply.

#PI01273B Vibration at Highway Speed - Sept 15 2003

You will have to give the dealer this number, title, and date. They will have access to the details.
It is dated sep 15 so maybe it's new enough the dealer hasn't viewed it. Or maybe they have reviewed it and it don't apply or they have already addressed it.
I doubt the information is available anywhere other than gm.
This link has tsb titles for 2000 Blazer-

http://alldata.com/TSB/11/001141GO.html

This site is not free and as you can see is only updated to april 03.

The NHSTA website also has free tsb titles. But you must pay for details.

If you wish to give your VIN I can check the tsb. I get this error from GM without a VIN


"Preliminary Information can't be displayed by entering

Year Make Model Only

(VIN is required to view PI vehicle content)"

By the way, the GM site is not available to the general public.

Thanks for the info. Here's my vehicle vin number.

1GNCS13W[redacted]

If you can check the TSB for this vin and what they have listed on that particular TSB that would be great. I look forward to hearing from you.

Thanks

When servicing VIN 1GNCS13W[redacted] , the following diagnosis may be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the described symptoms.

Symptom-
Vibration that is felt in seat of pants OR a body shake at highway speeds.

Recommendation-
This condition may occur when EVA readings show the tires at 12-14 Hz, OR 60 MPH, and 0.07 Gs. This condition may develope or worsen on rough roads. This vibration is NOT torque sensitive and Can't be felt in steering wheel/column.

This vibration is considered a normal characteristic for these vehicles and no repair attempts should be made.

This diagnostic approach was developed for the VIN you entered and shouldn't be automaticaly used for other vehicles with similar symptoms. (end)

They are admitting the problem exists, but saying it's normal, and there isn't a repair that will remedy it. They may eventually update a part (discover a design flaw) or develope a repair but at this time choose to say it's normal.
Go over [#PI01273B - (09/15/2003)] with anyone else that drives your blazer and the service technician at goodwrench to determine if the symptoms match the bulletin.

1999 Chev S-10 Blazer Drive Train / Driveline Sticking When shifting When warm 

I have a six cylinder S-10 Blazer, 4.3L, 2WD. The transmission does fine all day around town, no problems at all. When you take a trip that is about three hours or more the transmission has a problem shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear. When you stop and take off, 1st to 2nd does fine. 2nd to 3rd acts as if it is hung and then it jerks the vechile, "pops" loose and goes in to third. Once the vechile have been parked and cooled off everything works fine. I'm trying to determine if I should replace the solenoids in the lower part or the transmission or if the whole transmission needs replacing? Any thoughts?

It does sound as if the solenoids are the culprit.. best rule of advise I can give you on this would be to take the truck to a shop that has a portable scantool which gives a datastream display on the transmission. If it is the solenoids acting up the tool will detect it. Beats having the tranny ripped open only to find that it was the solenoids. Saves you money to start with this first.If I can be of further assistence you can email me at [redacted] upon acceptence of this response. Good Luck

Walt Boyer
ASE Master Tech

I do all of my own auto work and was just trying to determine if I should replace the transmission. I have a scanner and there are no codes, so I guess it's not the solenoids. Also, I need to correct the comment on which gears, it's from 1st to 2nd that there's a problem and it seems from what I've found that this transmission has this as a known problem.

thanks!

1998 Chev S-10 Blazer Fuel System   

i just replaced my fuel pump n now it idles very rough n black smoke comes out the pipe

Possible dirt in fuel pressure regulator beside throttle body,Check all hoses on fuel pressure regulator. Ensure that the return line from reg. back to fuel tank is not crimped above fuel tank or kinked in some manner.The fuel must be able to return back to tank without obstruction.

1996 Chev S-10 Blazer Engine Hesitating When driving When warm 

My 4.3L S-10 Blazer will hesitate and seem sluggish when driving in 100 dregree + abient temperatures. As I apply the accelerator the engine will gain revolutions and then drop them and come back up. My service engine light has been coming on at different times and then go off. the light does not coincide with the hesitation. A friend suggested the heat sensor, but the local Auto Zone does list a heat sensor for my blazer. Any suggestions would be appreciated. thanks

I think your friend was probably referring to the coolant temperature sensor.

We really need to know why the check engine light is turning on. When it turns on a trouble code is stored in your vehicle computer (which is actually a PCM or powertrain control module). It is generally expsensive to have a shop access trouble codes from the vehicle. A great service that many autoparts stores provide free of charge is pulling the codes. This includes Autozone. Please visit them and have the codes read. It's important that you come back with the actual code number(s). An example of a trouble code number is P0300. Autozones interpretation of the code will not be helpful (ie- they may say you need an oxygen sensor when I may have evidence to the contrary).
Please let me know what trouble codes they find.

1996 Chev S-10 Blazer Drive Train / Driveline Lagging When accelerating Always

I have a 96 s10 blazer 4x4 4.3 liter, Automatic. She is my baby with 175000 miles and I do not want to get rid of it. Initially it would stall after 5-10 minutes of run time and would have no power under load. (in gear pushing gas pedal to floor. I replaced fuel filter and the stalling problem has been corrected. However it still loses power when driving. I can slowly increase speed to around 55-60, when i depress the gas it "flutters" until i let up on the gas and it will go back to slow acceleration. New fuel pump professionally intalled 6 months ago. Trans has good level and the engine will rev up in park no problem. HELP!!!

You need to use a fuel pressure gauge to check what the fuel pressure is. I suspect you have a weak fuel pump and the new filter just took a little stress off it. You need a minimum of 55PSI with the engine running. any less that that and you nneed to change the pump withh a delco branded pump.

1996 Chev S-10 Blazer Engine Vibration When idling Always

My daughter's 1996 Chevy S10 Blazer really shakes when in park, or stopped anywhere, but running, such as at a light, stop sign, etc. There is plenty of transmission fluid, RMP is between .5 and 1 (out of 6), and with the hood open, you can see the engine moving quite a bit (like it could shake itself out of there!). What might the problem be? Thanks!

Hello, There are several possibilities. What engine do you have, please? Did the problem occur suddenly?

Are the spark plug wires connected correctly? (none crossed or loose) Are the plug wires in good condition? How old are they?

Have you inspected the spark plugs for condition? How old are they?

With the hood up at night and the engine running can you see spark jumping around the plugs, the coil, or along the path of the wires? You shouldn't.

How well will the engine run above idle?

Roger

What is happening here, please?

Roger

1996 Chev S-10 Blazer Drive Train / Driveline  When driving Always

I installed new ball joints (upper and lower), a new idler arm, and new shocks. Now the car "pitches and rolls" when it hits a bump in the road.

What you describe is what is called"bump steer". When you replaced the parts, did you check your tie rods, wheel bearings, wheel alignment,control arm bushings,steering column connecting collar or steering gear? Unless the vehicle has been in a collision before, and the frame was not properly set to specs, these are the last factors that come into the equation to me. You don't state if the seering gear is a rack and pinion or a conventional box. Either way, you can check for these symptoms by raising the front end. With the steering wheel locked(make sure it is in a complete lock) and parking brake set, grab the top and bottom of the tire and pull in and out. If you have excessive movement(more than an1/8th of an inch),wheel bearing time. Now grab the outer edges of the tire and do the same while looking at the steering gear(you'll probably need some extra eyes for this one). If it is a convetional box, there is a rubber conecting collar going into the box (it may have a plastic cover over it that you need to slide back). Look for movement there and at the pitman arm coming out of the box. If little to none there but at the wheel you're shaking, tie rod time. If it has a rack system, the column should be a solid mount into the rack but watch for play at the inner and outer tie rods connecting to the spindle as well. Too much play than you may need the tie rods and or a new rack. The lower control arm bushings are usually the last to go but a quick visual check for any unusual cracking or splits may indicate they have seen their time. If you do any of this and find your self replacing any of the above mentioned parts, a total 4 wheel thrust alignment is a must. Thrust angl determines where your rear tires sit in conjuction with the front. Wheither it be a rear wheel drive or front, the rear wheels always determine which way the vehicle is going to go.
Good Luck,
Paul

What are the chances that poor workmanship with the work I had done is causing this?

If you're talking about the parts you had replaced, theres a remote chance that ball joint was seated incorrectly or damaged when doing so, or a part being left loose. Now, if you're talking about collision damage, thats a whole new ballpark.

1996 Chev S-10 Blazer Drive Train / Driveline Vibration When driving Always

Have a 1996 s-10 blazer 4x4 vibration which has been getting worse. Sounded like it was coming from the passenger front and I suspected the hub/bearing assembly. I removed the assembly and it feels good. No tears in the cv boots either. side appears to be good also. When driving,the vibration goes away when I turn to the left. Should I go deeper into the driveline?

check cv joints sounds like an inner cv joint problem outer clicks inner vibrates

What is the best way to check the inner CV joint to see if it's bad? Can it be done without removing the drive axle as the boot isn't torn or leaking? The axles are cheap as a unit but I don't want to throw money at a problem. Thanks for your reply!

take a bar and lightly pry up and down on center shaft and see if there is movement if so it is bad

Well I used the prybar trick and I think I found the problem. The flange on the drivers side coming out of the front differential moves up and down with the prybar. I guess there is a bearing in the differential that is bad. Would that be a fair assumption? Do you think it would be OK to pull the front axles and drive it until the time and funds are available to fix it right?

no will cause major problems axles help keep bearings tight

1996 Chev S-10 Blazer Fuel System   

will not start cold pour gas in will start and restart when hot will not restart after cooling changed fuel reg, spider,filter fuel pressure app.75lbs

Any change at all after changing the fuel system components?

Check to see what the temperature sensors are reading (coolant and air) during the cold no start.

Are you able to check for spark and injector pulse during the no-start period?

1996 Chev S-10 Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems   

4x4 T10. low beam setting doesn't work, when driving lights on both high beam and low beams on, high beam setting works, but on low beam setting the low beams don't come one. replaced daytime running light circuit board and headlight switch. checked all fuses and all are good. swapped breaker for daytime run lights with another that's working that's the same and didn't fix it. the last thing left is the turn signal/high beam/cruise control switch which works high beam on and off. any ideas???

have you replaced the hedlght bulbs

as stated bulbs work, on daytime run lights both high and low beams are on, i don't think they are supposed to do this, best I could research is for 1996 probably should be the low beams. i even tried taking out the fuse and trying, taking out the daytime run light breaker and still doesn't work

still there? I was hoping to disable something breaker or something to maybe bypass the daytime run light to troubleshoot this problem. this just happened suddenly, it had been working fine without problem

I can help. Let me know your email address and I'll send troubleshooting instructions.

Never overlook fuses and relays when you experience electrical failure. The correct way to test a fuse is confirming voltage on both sides of the fuse with a meter.

[redacted]

Message should be on its way. Took a while to get ready.

1996 Chev S-10 Blazer Fuel System   

I have problems with the engine either misfire at rpm's over 2000. when I am stopped and go to take off the TAC gets up to about 2200 rpm's and it feels jumpy like it misfires and picks back up. I can also notice this while driving on the highway at about 70 mph which again is at 2200-2600 rpm,s depending on grade and load. I have done a tune up including plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter, air filter. I thought it was the pump but when I hit the gas hard from a stop this is not noticable. I do have a test code indicating a small emissions leak but I had the lines smoked and the leak was fixed. I have also noticed that the gas tank has quite a bit of vacume on it when I go to fill up. I am going to replace the silonoid valve at the charcoal canister to see if this is cloged or broken. but I don't see why this would cause the surging/jumpy feeling as the engine is above 2000 rpm. I have also had the transmission codes checked and there seems to be no slipping as of now but I am afraid with this happening at shifting rpms it will adversly effect the transmission.

You may want to check the ignition coil, especially the primary wire connections to it. And do pursue the high gas tank vacuum. It also could be a blocked line to it (pinched or bent?)that is causing the problem.Also check the fuel line and the fuel press. regulator and return line for problems.

Have you checked the coil connections?
They are sometimes a concern when under a load.A portable scan tool and a test drive might be a good idea.

1995 Chev S-10 Blazer All Part Groups Failing When shifting Always

my blazer does not go into 4WD. The light goes on my it does not engage.

The first thing to check is the front axle actuator.

What have you done so far to troubleshoot the problem?

1995 Chev S-10 Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Blinkers wont function when headlights are on When headlights are off front blinkers function correctly but rear blinkers both flash. Changed turn signal switch and signal flashers. what next?

Carefully check the ground connections at the rear of the taillight wiring harness.Usually the ground connection is a single screw under the taillight housing, and a little corrosion can be a problem. Ensure there is not a problem with additional wiring IE: trailer wiring.If there is trailer wiring, temporarily disconnect it and test the operation of the lights. Also re an re the bulbs and carefully examine them. I have seen them occasionally short out internally. when a filament breaks and lies across the taillight circuit~!

1995 Chev S-10 Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems   

battery keeps draining overnight it has a draw somewhere i disconnected neg terminal and put test light between terminal and neg battery post the testlight lights up like a christmas tree. Also has a new alternater and battery. Nick

Hello, you will need to pull fuses one by one to find which circuit is draining the battery. If a fuse does not reveal the source, disconnect relays one by one.

Let me know which circuit is causing the draw.

Note- wait ten minutes after connecting test light to run test. Make sure glove, hood, or trunk lights are not on, as well as doors closed, etc.

Hello,

Did you try the test I mentioned? When you pull the fuses look for the test light to go out when you find the offending circuit. This is what must be done to find the problem, otherwise a lot of parts can replaced unnecessarily.

1994 Chev S-10 Blazer Fuel System Stalling When driving When warm 

My S-10 blazer 4.3 seems to go into a vapor lock situation after it is warmed up. The fuel pressure drops off after it gets hot,only when the outside temp is over 80. I have replaced the fuel pump twice, the pulsator valve on the sending unit, the fuel filter,and the CFI (central fuel injection unit) and it still stalls and is hard to start when hot. it runs fine when the outside temp is cooler.Also specs call for 54-64psi, and after i replaced all the parts mentioned above,when i tested the fuel psi,(engine stone cold), the reading was 53 psi.It will run fine at that psi but when it gets hot the psi starts dropping off untill it reaches about 45 psi then it will stall out.

ANY help would be appreaciated

Sounds like you have done all the hard stuff now ... unfortunately we have to take a shot at a few things. Have you attempted to run the engine with the gas cap either off or loose? This may cause a heavy vapor (gas) smell by the gas cap ... you could have a gas cap that is not regulating the tank pressure / vaccum properly. If this does not work then you will need to check the 3rd hose that comes out of the top of the tank and make sure the hose is not clogged. Start with the cap and let me know. AL

Thanks for your time and effort Al. I replaced the cap and checked the 3rd line from the tank to the vapor canister and it still loses fuel pressure when the outside temp is above 85.I also replaced the t-stat just for the hell of it, but the psi still drops off when hot. I checked the fan clutch and it seems to be working like it should.When the weather is in the 70's it holds 60psi and will run forever.(i have a pressure gauge that reaches inside the vehicle so i can monitor it all the time)
As best as i can tell, the pressure regulator is getting too hot and staying open and allowing the fuel to return to the tank before enough psi can be obtained to run the injector.
The real bitch of this all is, that i am an ASE certified Master tech of 20 years and this is MY OWN vehicle, and it's kicking my ass!

Any other thoughts would really be appreciated, thanks again AL.

Larry (Denver CO.)
p.s. I might have to wait until winter to drive this damn thing :)

Here is my last possible thought.. any possibility that the supply line is running close enough to a heat source that with the additional heat of the day you start to vapor lock in a line??? This is really bs... but try to run a new fuel line (copper or hose what ever you have) in a completely different way then the factory did.. or just see if you are missing a heat shield.. If that doesnt work .. I guess you have to go buy a ford.. Let me know.. I also have been turning wrench for 28 years and this is a good one... AL

It was the VAPOR Canister!!!!!!!!!!
I pluged off the 2 vac. hoses, and disconnected the vapor hose from the canister, and let the hose vent towards the air cleaner asm.
I am guessing that the canister is loaded up with fuel?
The dealer wants $80 for the canister,what do you think about getting a used one?

Thanks again for your effort
Larry
p.s. I'd rather push my chevy, than drive a Phord!! :)

yes a junk yard canister will work find...glad I could help

1994 Chev S-10 Blazer Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise When driving Always

when driving aconstant squeak when i apply the brake very slightly it stops a new rear u joint was installed 1 year ago so i put grease in it did not stop ft ujoint looks and fells ok when i put it in the air it sounds like its in trans but i cant tell because the sound travels the squeak is in rotation to the shaft?

I REPLACED THE REAR U JOINT PROBLEM SOLVED

Have you checked the brakes yet? Disc brakes have what is called a "sounding bar" riveted to the pad backing.When the pad wears down to less than 2/3 or so, It contacts the rotor surface and "sings".Applying the brake presses on the bar so it doesn't vibrate.After time,the thing will squeal constantly(that's a warning to replace the pads now)One other option is that the pads are glazed from heat or contaminated,Both of which can cause a squeal.Solution? Just replace the pads.Hope this helps.
C

1994 Chev S-10 Blazer Chassis / Suspension & Steering Making Noise When turning Always

Blazer makes a loud clunk/bang when making left turns onto uneven roads. The harder/faster the turn, the louder the noise. The lower/upper ball joints have been replaced as well as most of the steering linkage, shocks, right side half axel, left hub. Passengers can feel a bump through the floorboard. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Take a close look at the engine and transmission mounts. Let me know what you find.

1994 Chev S-10 Blazer Chassis / Suspension & Steering Making Noise When driving Always

Its a loud clunk. Under panic braking, or climbing a really steep driveway. I have done shocks and torsion bar mounts. I was about to do upper and lower balljoints both sides. Should I be looking @ other things? TIA

you may want to take a look at the motor mounts and transmission/transaxle mounts as they tend to produce the same symptoms
hope this helps
Macconneck

its also felt in the driver's side floor pretty strong. It feels like its a front of truck issue.
does this change things?

Check motor/ trans and transaxel mounts?

That would not chang because the vibration is contagious. The ball joints will also be felt throughout the vehicle as well as a busted mount

looks like ball joints solved the front end clunk.

When the truck is cold, I get this crazy chatter when I place it in reverse. the front fan shroud around the radiator seems to be the most intense cental location of the vibration.

if I apply the brakes firmly the chatter will increase in volume, almost tied to the demand for vaccum. Really loud @ onset - quieter after the intital stopping.

It appears almost to go away in netral and is nealry not there in drive. If I pop the hood, its barley noicable in N and D.

Once its warm this doesnt happen. If I park the truck for a breif period it will happen again. The colder the truck gets the louder it clacks. Ideas?

You may want to run a scan for codes to see if there are any stored
This could be related to an engine problem
Incorrect grade of fuel or ignition timing also worn or damaged distributer componets
A bad vacume leak of faulty spark plugs could cause the same symptoms
do a computer scan to check the system out as a process of elimination
Macconneck

"Motor mounts" your on a roll! new eletrical question. Blower motor works on speeds 1-3, and shuts off on high setting #4 (tested @ the motor= all the votage dissapears. the switch looks good, and the votage makes it down to the blower relay - but never out past that - Checked all fuses in the box, is there an addional power feed for high speed, or mabey a resistor pack?

Alex

you would want to check the relay itself and check for the power it is switching to see if that voltage is present after the switch is closed

1994 Chev S-10 Blazer Engine   

1994 Blazer S10 4.3 HO. 114K miles. Engine idle is rough feels like a mis in ignition. I changed plugs, wires, Dist. cap and oxygen sensor, Accelleration and normal driving is OK, It has been going on for about 7 years. No malf codes in the computer diagnostics.

Is this CPI injection?

Start by cleaning the throttle body/blade and idle air control valve and its port back into the throttle body. This will often help significantly.

The egr valve on these can hang open slightly because of carbon/debris, and cause a miss/rough idle. If it is held open far enough it can cause the engine to stall at idle.

Check these and let me know what you find.

Yes it has CPI fuel injection. Where is the EGR Valve and how do I clean it ? Yhe throttle body has been cleaned in the past with no help. The fuel injectors were replaced as well. I will not work on this problem today. Thanks for helping, Jim B.

Use the following link for instructions on removal and installation. Carb/throttle body cleaner (or anything to break up carbon deposit) is you best bet. Make sure the egr valve is seating fully. Also you could temporarily plug the egr passage for test purposes. Start the engine, it will immediately have a smoother idle if the egr valve is the problem.

Sorry I forgot the link-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/18/b7/fe/[redacted] b7fe.jsp

Highlight, Copy, and Paste the above link into your Address Bar.

1994 Chev S-10 Blazer Engine   

Recently I replaced the main seal. Since doing this the blazer starts but when you take your foot off the gas pedal it floods out .It also runs very rough when it does run. compounded to this when the brakes are applied there is full pedal but nearly no brakes. Code 34 comes up.

It sounds to me like you have a very bad vacume leak in the intake manifold.
There is also a vacume line that is connected to the tranny, that also should be checked out to see if it is connected properly.
Did you do the job yourself or was it done at a shop? Diod they drop the tranny, pull the engine or was it a two piece seal that they installed?
Was it running fine after the rear main seal?
I need to know how the changing of the rear main seal might be related.

As for the 94 code
1:theractor air system problem on the right bank passenger side or
2:transaxle problem shift solenoid circuit failure
possible that a connector is pulled out or loose on the tranny it is woth a check

The Blazer ran fine for 2 days then I started it to come home from work and didn't move 20 feet before it quit. The only way I could get it to start was to hold it to the floor, but when you put it in gear unless you were giving it quite a bit of gas it would quit. I found that the injector seemed to be stuck because when you turned the switch on to start the fuel pump the gas sprayed out of 3 or 4 of the poppets continuously. I changed the injector and it quit spraying gas and flooding when trying to start, however, it still doesn't want to run.

did you reset the computer after repairing the injector?
You can still do a test on the injector to see that the resisance is correctm and make sure it is operating correctly also
Have you tried a throttle body cleaner?
That would not be a bad idea.

your air bypass valve thats the valve that is right in back of the pump is the thing drawing up the code.

We reset the computer and it fixed most of the problem. It still misses a little bit but runs now the way it should. thanks

you are welcome

1994 Chev S-10 Blazer Engine   

I have a 1994 S10 Blazer with a 4.3 Vortek, code W engine with 122k miles. I recently replaced the intake manifold gaskets because of a coolant leak on the driver's side.
Last week I coasted to a stop and lots of blue smoke was coming from the back of the vehicle. As I sat there the smoke dissipated somewhat. As I drove off I didn't notice smoke coming from the vehicle. When I arrived at my destination I checked the oil level. It was at the bottom of the dip stick. I added a quart and the level came to the top of the 'safe' level. I drove home and when I coasted to stops noticable smoke came from the rear of the car. As I drove off the smoke was left at the intersection and no noticable smoke was coming from the car as I drove along. If I put the transmission in neutral and came to a stop there was much less or no noticable smoke until I drove off again and there was some smoke but dissipated as I drove on.
I removed the spark plugs and checked compression which was 139 to 150 on all cylincers. However, all six plugs had oily deposits on them, all of them. Number 4 had a lot of crusty deposits and number 5 had some crusty deposits around the insulators in addition to being oily.
I'm puzzled because I can't imagine all of the valve seals and 'o'ring seals to fail at the same time but I suspect that to be the problem. There is no misfire or 'check engine' light and the engine seems to operate normally, except for blue smoke.
If there were piston ring failure wouldn't that show up on the compression test as well as drivability?
Is there another path or paths for oil to get into all the cyliners at the same time? HELP!

Hello, When you think about it you fixed an intake manifold leak. What you saw was a coolant leak.

You also fixed a vacuum leak. When you decelerate vacuum goes to the highest level and if valve guide seals are hard from age they cannot prevent oil being drawn past them.

I recommend replacing the valve guide seals.

Roger

Roger, thanks for the suggestion and it makes sense. Is hardening of the seals due to age rather than mileage?

The 'recent' manifold gasket replacement was April 19th, almost 3 months ago. Until last week there was no smoke coming from the engine. If I inadvertently repaired a vacuum leak wouldn't that show up sooner than after two and a half months in other vacuum systems as well as burning oil?

Also, could a malfunctioning PCV valve cause something similar? I just thought of that. I should check that too I suppose. What do you think?

Roy Geis

By all means check the pcv valve. The crankcase has to breathe.

The valve guide seals get brittle and then begin to wear. Sometimes changing a brand of oil or viscosity weight can be the only variation an owner remembers before seeing their engine begin to use oil.

If this vehicle is a keeper and a new pcv valve won't give the results you are looking for replace the valve guide seals. it will be worth it.

Roger

ROGER: Sorry for the delay in responding. This evening I replaced all the spark plugs. I'm here to say the 4.3 Vortek in an S-10 Blazer is oversized for the vehicle. Agree?

I also replaced the PCV valve. I started the engine and expected blue smoke. THERE WAS NONE...NONE. I drove it around the block (2 miles), backed in to my driveway, got out and checked the exhaust, no smoke.

The old PVC valve was very oily and may have had enough surface tension to prevent proper function.

Anyway, I'm cautiously optomistic that a $3.59 part saves the day (and the car). Thanks a bunch. RG

Thank you for the update. A very pleasant outcome, thank God!

To close the question please click on OK to finish up.

Thanks very much,

Roger

1994 Chev S-10 Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems   

RIGHT FRONT MARKER LIGHT WILL NOT WORK, BUT LIGHT WORKS WITH TURN SIGINAL.

Hi, Will you please clarify which light is not working? Is it the right front side marker light that comes on with park lamps? What color should this light be when it works?

Do you want/need a wiring diagram? I'll need your email address to send one to you.

Roger

Yes it is, it should be amber.

Yes a wiring diagram would be helpful.

Thank you,
Larry

[redacted]

I have a wiring diagram on the way.

Have you tested for voltage present at the marker light socket when the exterior lights are on? Have you tested the ground in the socket?

Roger

1994 Chev S-10 Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems   

LEFT FRONT MARKER LIGHT WILL NOT WORK.BUT WHEN YOU USE THE TURN SIGNALS IT DOES FLAST.

Hi, Do you have/need a wiring diagram? What is the condition of the lamp sockets and wiring? Any body damage history?

Roger

When the Park Lamps are on power is supplied to the fron side marker lights via a Brown wire from the headlamp switch.

When the left turn signal is active power is supplied to the left front side marker light via a Lt Blue wire from the turn signal switch.

Check out the brown wire from the left front side marker lamp socket back to where it splices into the wire loom for the problem.

Roger

1994 Chev S-10 Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems   

RIGHT FRONT MARKER LIGHT WILL NOT WORK WHEN YOU HAVE THE PARKING LIGHTS ON BUT IT WILL FLASH WHEN YOU YSE THE TURN SIGNALS

Hi, Did you mistakingly duplicate you request? We shouldn't charge you but once for this question.

Please advise,

Roger

Hi, Did you mistakingly duplicate your request? We shouldn't charge you but once for this question.

Please advise,

Roger

1994 Chev S-10 Blazer Engine   

How do you remove and replace the oil coolant line, including the brace on the differental, on a S10 1994 Chev Blazer.

Hello,

Are you talking about the front differential (4wd) or rear differential?

Please further describe the part you wish to change... what does the cooler go to? Is there a leak now?

Oops - sorry I'm just the home mechanics secretary --
he said its the 4WD front differental and it the oil coolant line that comes from the oil filter to the rear of the engine on the left side. He is having problems locating where the bolt is that holds the brace on the left side of the pan that goes between the oil coolant lines.

Hi,

Copy and paste the following link into your address bar--

http://www.autozone.ro/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0[redacted] 00bfca6

Click on the image to enlarge.

Let me know if this is what you are looking for.

The image is great, but he is needing to know how to remove the brace that is in-between the lines. He can remove the bottom bolt, but cant get to, or even see the top bolt that holds the brace. Is it on the top of the differental and if so how does he get to it?

Hi,

What repair is he doing? If he can remove one bolt he should be able to separate the brace from the lines.

He is trying to replace the old coolant line with a new one. The hoses seperate yes, but they single down to two solid pipes. The two pipes goes to the connection that fastens to the engine, the brace comes up thru the middle of pipes. The end of the pipe connection does not come off. How does he remove the brace??

1994 Chev S-10 Blazer Drive Train / Driveline   

Engine vibrates harder on some days than others. Does not seem like its missing, or a vacuum leak. There is a knocking sound from the engine compartment, but it’s not a low nock like the lower end or a tick from the upper end. Vibration is greatest at approx 2500 to 3000 rpm range.

Plug wires that are weak will cause eng to run rough esp when damp out or under load.
Also do a compression test and a tune.
Hook up a mechanical oil press guage and monitor.
Also a knock at center of engine would be a wrist pin on the piston, tough to diagnose that noise.Try borrowing or buying a cheap mechanics stethescope (usually under $20)

Plug wires are under a year old, but one can never tell. Any thoughts on the harmonic balancer? don’t know if it’s a one or two piece.

"Plug wires are under a year old, but one can never tell. Any thoughts on the harmonic balancer? don’t know if it’s a one or two piece."

They are two pce with an elastomer (rubber) bond between. The oil, heat and age can deteriate the rubber and slip, so timing marks are way off,
The plug wires can be tested with an ohm meter, and sometimes you can see sparks around them under load at night. Electricity
likes to take the shortest route to gnd. A good quality wire like a MSD 8.8 mm wire can help.as opposed to stock replacement wires.

could a bolt stuck between the flex plate and torque converter cause enough vibration to loosen the bell housing bolts?

Most definatly1 Why would a bolt be stuck there? Yes the bellhousing bolts can come loose and in turn cause more vibration.
We can almost assume the flexplate is now either bent or might have small cracks around crank bolt holes.Check for warpage with either a dial guage or laying it on
something flat (IE:a pane of glass)

the vibration and clunking sounds are gone, with out replacing the flex plate, what kind of damage would a bent flex plate cause?

A minor one hopefully! Eventually it might crack. But no serious damage should usually occur.Just pay attention to it, you should be ok.

1993 Chev S-10 Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start When starting No pattern

When turning the key the motor turns over and it sounds like it is either flooded or out of gas. I have found that by getting under the rear bumper and merely touching "flicking" two wires that I believe are going to the fuel pump that the vehicle will then start immediately the next time I turn the key. One mechanic has told me that when this happens to leave the key in the "on" position and try to listen to see if I can hear the fuel pump start when I touch the wires. I have tried to listen for the sound of the pump but so far have not heard any difference or pump running after I tug on the wires. There are three wires which appeared to be locked or clamped to a connector by the gas tank, but a third wire is not connected. When I recently took my vehicle in for an unrelated issue I asked them to look at the fuel pump and they said they could not see anything unusual. I do not know if there is a short or some other electrical issue - however on occasion when I engage my turn signal my wipers will start. This is frustrating because sometimes it will go for weeks without failing to start and then sometimes such as today, it happened twice. than this issue the vehicle has been well maintained and only has 137,000 miles.

Hello, What size engine please?

When the ignition key is turned ON, but not turned to START, the computer will run the fuel pump for two seconds to pressurize the fuel lines and then the pump will stop.

To hear what the technician was talking about it must be pretty quiet or you would need to be near the fuel tank when someone else turns the key to ON. The computer will do this pressurizing of the fuel line everytime you cycle the key from OFF to ON so you should hear it each time provided the key is cycled with about five seconds between attempts.

Moving the wires back at the fuel pump that causes a favorible result speaks to a connection problem. The fuel pump has a wire harness pig tail that arrives at the connector near the tank in plain sight. When removing the fuel tank this is where the pump is disconnected from the vehicle harness. This connector should have a weather seal to keep it clean. The seal can be seen if you disconnect the connector and look at the male end. The seal is often a light green color.

Inspect inside the connector for loose or backed-out terminals, corrossion, signs of heat and general condition. Look at the routing of the wire for any place that could pinch or wear the wire insulation. Repair as needed.

You said one wire did not appear to be connected. What color is this wire?

The windshield wiper switch is seperate but mounts on the side of the turn signal switch. The wires for the wiper switch or the switch itself may be worn and the action of moving the turn signal lever may be resulting in the unwanted temporary wiper operation. The wiper switch will likely need replacing in the steering column.

Questions? Fire away,

Roger

What is happening here, please?

Roger

I have not had time to check the color of the hanging wire. Thanks for the great information though - engine size is 4.3L - V6. I will get back when I have followed through with your instructions

Cool, I'll wait for your reply.

Roger

1993 Chev S-10 Blazer Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction Happens always Always

My 93 S-15 Jimmy won't shift into 4 hi. I replaced the transfer case vacuum switch, the actuator and cable are free and the switch lights up only on first start up. The transfer case motor worked a little during diagnostics but now nothing. I have also lost power to the cable indicator switch on the front diff. connector. Initially I would hear the transfer case shifter motor but the front would not lock into 4 hi but would lock into 4 low. The dash switch is new and the front cable position switch tests good. I'm going crazy!!! Can you help??

It sounds like you have lost power or ground. Thoroughly inspect the wiring. Never over look fuses (test with a test light). Restore power and see what you get.

I have restored power but I didn't have time to test it yet. I found a connector under the hood that wasn't making good contact so I cleaned it and added some dielectric grease. Now the transfer case motor works but I'm not sure if it will lock the front diff. yet. I've tested the vac hose from the transfer case to the servo and that will engage the diff., so I know that works. I've also replaced the transfer case switch so I know that works. The front diff. switch also tests good. The only thing I can think of at this point is the electric motor on the transfer case not engaging the switch so the servo can work. I will do a test to determine if restoring the power to the front diff. works and send you a reply. Thanks!!

Here is where I'm at. I now am able to shift into 4 low but not 4 hi and I'm only able to do that from the neutral gear position. On a positive note however, the front diff. is now locking and turning with the correct 4 low indicator light on the dash switch. Where do I go from here??? Could the electrical connector on the transfer case be my problem or am I missing some type of relay or other fuse that is not in the fuse block??

Thanks

Do you hear it try to shift?

I only hear it shifting when in neutral and going into and out of 4 low. I do not get any lights on the switch or hear any sounds when I attempt to shift into 4 high.

The following link will give you an image of the shift motor and it's electrical connector- Copy and Paste into your address bar-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/12/b4/6b/[redacted] b46b.jsp

This link will give you the location of the shift module- Inspect both locations for any wiring problems.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/12/b4/6b/[redacted] b46b.jsp

I accidentally posted the same link twice- here is the one for the shift module-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/12/b4/7[redacted] b476.jsp

I have checked the electrical connection on the transfer case and it looks good. 4 low still works well. I still can't shift into 4 hi. The transfer case motor makes a noise but it doesn't do anything else. The relay under the passenger dash panel is making what seems like the correct clicking sounds so I think that is working as it should.

Whats next?? Should I remove the shift motor??

Yes, remove the shift motor and see if the motor will function while unbolted but still wired (select 2wd and 4wd and watch the movement...)

Ok, I have the motor off. It will shift to 4 low all the time and the lights on the dash are correct. It seems to twich when I try 4 hi. I don't know if its going into 4 hi or just out of 4 low. It still won't shift to 4 hi or 4 low while it's in drive. It doesn't seem like I can take apart the shift motor. Please answer these questions:
1. How will I know if I need a new shift motor?
2. Will the new shift motor make it shift to 4 hi while its in drive (shift on the fly)??

Thanks

Sorry for the delay.

I've found a DIY repair information site that may have more in depth information/wiring diagrams/etc that you'll need for further troubleshooting- Let me know if the link works (I just found this today)

http://arrc.epnet.com/autoasp/index.asp?sid=[redacted] &uid=s[redacted] .main.autorefctr

It is unclear whether you need a new shift motor or not at this point. It may be easier to try a used shift motor, if you can find one locally at a reasonable price, than troubleshooting because the electrical test results can be misleading.

After disassembly, I have replaced the same shift motor and attached the wiring. I didn't find anything unusual with the internal gears or wires. Once it was installed, I removed the positive batt. cable for 2 minutes to reset the transfer case relay. Once power was back on, everything seemed to work as it should. The dash lights are now working properly and the front diff is locking correctly. From what I've read on other posts, if this a shift motor problem, I'll need to reset the relay by removing power again in the future. If this happens, I'll replace the shift motor. Am I on track?? I think all my wiring is working properly and I think my transfer case relay is good. Once I get some dextron II to fill the transfer case I'll do a road test. Thanks for the replies!!!

Everything is working great. It this happens again, I'll try to reset the rely and go from there. Hopefully I won't need to replace the shifter motor for awhile!! This has been a long confusing task. Thanks for all your help!!!

1993 Chev S-10 Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Where might I find the keyless entry controle module on our '93 Blazer 4 door? Alldata shows it should be under the center console, it's not there. Any other standard locations we might look for it? Did Chevy offer this vehicle without keyless entry even though it power windows and door locks?

Console is first place to look.I have seen some under dash on either side of column.
Not all PW PDL Blazers had keyless. It was an option, so you may not find one.
The aftermarket people make these,if you need one.

1993 Chev S-10 Blazer Drive Train / Driveline   

When shifting from 2 to 4 wheel drive, it feels like it shifts because I can feel it engage the front drive shaft, but it will not go into 4 wheel drive. Lights on dash do light up indicating it's in 4 WD, drive shaft does turn but wheels do not. Is there a schematic for this or any suggestions. John

The front axle actuator is a common failure on these, it gives the exact symtoms you have. Look on the front differential and you'll see it. Inspect the vacuum hose for potential damage OR wiring, depending on your application.

For a free online repair guide-

http://autozone.com/newGuide,yes/shopping/repairGuide.htm

Copy and Paste the above link into your Address bar.

Thanks Douglas for your help. Turns out the vacuum hose had come off, fallen down below and behind the distributor and totally out of sight. Great to know that you folks are there. Thanks Again.
John

Good job finding the problem! It sure is nice when it turns out simple.

1993 Chev S-10 Blazer Fuel System   

We have a 1993 Chevy S10 Blazer, V6, 4.3 Vortec, TPI Injection, 4 Wheel Drive, vehicle.
Coming home it acted like it was starvin for gas. A few weeks prior we had a problem, code said map sensor, we replaced it and all was fine for about 2 weeks. Now we aren't sure if this is a fuel system problem or electrical or what. It was running real rough, wouldn't start, and we replaced the Complete fuel pump assembly, Fuel Filter, Fuel Relays, Ignition Coil, EGR Valve, and Distributor Cap & Rotor.
Needless to say this is getting pretty expensive. We currently are getting 58#'s of pressure from the fuel pump. Using jumper wire for retreiving codes we now get a Code 35 - IAC valve, and Code 32 which is the EGR valve (which is new). We have also checked timing, all grounds, we are getting gas, spark from the coil and plug wires. Now it starts when it's cold, runs good, but when it warms up runs rough and acts like it's starving for gas and eventually quits. What are we missing??? Is this a sensor or what?????
H E L P!!!!!!!

Hello
Have you checked the tps (trottle positioning sensor).
Heavychevy

,,

..

/

Just doing a follow up to check the progress of your blazer.
Heavychevy

1993 Chev S-10 Blazer Fuel System   

This is a second request as we have not received any reply and not sure if you got the first request.
We had a 1993 Chevy, S10 Blazer, V6, 4.3 Vortec, TPI Injection, 4 Wheel Drive.
Coming home it acted like it was starving for gas. A few weeks prior we had changed the map sensor and no problems till now. It now starts but quits and acts like it's not getting fuel. We have replaced the Complete Fuel Pump Assembly, Fuel Filter, Fuel Relays, EGR Valve, Ignition Coil, Distributor Cap & Rotor. The timing has been checked along with all ground wires. We are now getting 58#'s pressure from fuel pump. Using a jumper wire for codes we now get two codes. Code 32 - EGR valve is bad (this is brand new) and Code 35 - IAC Valve. It was showing the map sensor was bad again previously and we took that back and they replaced it with another new one and the vehicle started but when it got hot it would quit. Idled good. Now, it starts but won't stay running. This is getting expensive and we can't figure out what we are missing. Is this a fuel problem? Electrical? or what??? We appreciate your help. Thank you and I hope this request goes through ok.
John

I'm not sure what happened to your first request, but this one came through.

The egr code could be the sensor/circuitry and not the valve.

The iac can cause starting difficulty, but the engine should run fine above idle. I assume you tried to keep the engine running by pressing the accelerator.

I need to know which fuel injection system you have, do you central port injection which utilizes poppet valves (often called a 'spider' assembly)?

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/12/ae/3[redacted] ae32/repairInfoPages.htm

Copy and Paste the above link into your address bar. Note when at the site, there additional links to other fuel systems used on these vehicles, on the right side of the page.

Also let me know if you get any smoke from the exhaust OR if the vehicle will run (and smoke?) when the accelerator is pressed to the floor.

The following question was found in my email archives. Is this your original question? Did you receive an answer to this question?

Also check your junk/spam mail folder to make sure email replies are not lost.


About a 1993 Chev S-10 Blazer Fuel System "We have a 1993 Chevy S10 Blazer, V6, 4.3 Vortec, TPI Injection, 4 Wheel Drive, vehicle.Coming home it acted like it was starvin for gas. A few weeks prior we had a problem, code said map sensor, we replaced it and all was fine for about 2 weeks. Now we aren't sure if this is a fuel system problem or electrical or what. It was running real rough, wouldn't start, and we replaced the Complete fuel pump assembly, Fuel Filter, Fuel Relays, Ignition Coil, EGR Valve, and Distributor Cap & Rotor.Needless to say this is getting pretty expensive. We currently are getting 58#'s of pressure from the fuel pump. Using jumper wire for retreiving codes we now get a Code 35 - IAC valve, and Code 32 which is the EGR valve (which is new). We have also checked timing, all grounds, we are getting gas, spark from the coil and plug wires. Now it starts when it's cold, runs good, but when it warms up runs rough and acts like it's starving for gas and eventually quits. What are we missing??? Is this a sensor or what?????H E L P!!!!!!!"

Yes, the central port injection is what the picture shows I have. There is no smoke at all. Now it won't start at all.

Now that it won't start at all check for good consistant spark (to more than one cylinder).

Let me know if you have spark. If you have a can of carburetor cleaner, spray a small amount into a vacuum hose or the throttle body and attempt to start. IF the vehicle starts momentarily or fires and quits (on the 'primed' fuel the carb cleaner provides) you know you have Spark and the Engine is Mechanically capable of running... all that's missing is a good fuel supply.

If you have spark the CPI units (Poppets, Spider, etc) are known to fail. These are also very fussy on fuel pressure (which you have addressed).

Okay, John says it got where it would run smooth till it warmed up and then would quit. Now it starts but won't keep running. Acts like it's starved for fuel.
Has good spark.

Will it idle but not rev up?

Spark must stay consistent, for the engine to stay running.

If the engine only runs for a second or two, try priming the engine with a shot of carb cleaner into a vacuum hose (like the power brake booster hose) to see if the engine will run longer. Only do so IF you can do so safely, if you are not experienced working with highly flammable products, leave this test to someone that is.

The poppet assembly may need replacing, IF:

Spark is still available when the engine quits.

Fuel pressure remains stable when the engine stalls.

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I was rushed to the hospital and my husband does not know how to turn the computer on. Apparently that poppit assembly thing you mentioned is not the problem not sure what is. BUT...You said you did not get my first request so why did my charge card get charged for both attempts to get ahold of someone. I only agreed to a one time charge of $19.50, NOT TWO, so who do I speak to about this??? I don't think we care to go any further with this auto problem at this time. Getting concerned that this may not be a legitimate site.

Sorry for not getting back sooner, I was sick (just allergies) and never made it online yesterday. I hope everything is okay with your health.

A quick overview of how things work here. You pay to ask a question. I only answer questions, for half of your offer (the site gets the other half). While I have no control over the billing process, the site administrator has a great track record for customer service (no hassle refunds). You are correct, you should have only been charged once. If you don't have the administrators email address, let me know and I'll get it for you. This is an unusual problem and your concerns on legitimacy are warranted. Once again, I had no idea that you were billed twice.

As for the problem with your Blazer, I will continue to help with or without the expectation of payment. Current health, car, and BILLING (purely on us) problems are a lot to deal with. You can email me directly if you don't wish to continue here-

[redacted]

When you get the time I'd like to have an update (especially on the Mar 28 comments)on the blazer and continue until the problem is solved.

I cannot stress enough the importance of maintaining fuel pressure on these systems. Simple things like a weak battery cable or ground can create enough resistance to drop fuel pressure a couple pounds and cause the engine to stall (although this problem is not real common, it is a real life example of how problematic this fuel system can be).

Thank you so much for your very courteous letter, truely appreciated that. I would greatly appreciate it if you would send me the site administrator's email address so I may address the double charge. As for the blazer, my husband said that when he gets it started again (hopefully tomorrow)that he will put the fuel pressure gauge on it and watch to see if it drops. When we find out I'll let you know. Thank you again.

Below is the email address I get from the homepage-

[redacted]

I assume this will get you in touch with 'Mark,' the site administrator.

Hi Doug. I sent an email about the double charge and got an auto response so hopefully they got it. Okay. The good news is the Blazer is now running. The problem was that carbon was build up and baked on everything on the Intake Manifold. A mechanic told us this was common on the Vortex engine. The IAC valve was stuck down and baked with carbon build up and that was not allowing for the proper air flow. Got all the carbon cleaned out and a new IAC valve and she runs like a charm. Thank you for all your help and maybe this information will help you on down the road with someone else. Take care.

1993 Chev S-10 Blazer Fuel System   

Just had fuel pump replaced and svc tech found loose dist clamp so he reset timing. I decided to clean throttle body, egr and IAC afterwards on tech's recommendation and now have fast idle rpm. Should I recheck timing or could something else be causing high idle rpms?

Was there a fast idle idle condition before the service you peformed?

Start by checking for a vacuum leak and making sure the throttle blade is not sticking slightly open (perhaps not clean enough?).

No, there was no fast idle problem before cleaning the throttle body with TB spray. We cleaned the EGR ports and IAC with spray as well and reinstalled them. Disconnected neg terminal on battery for 10 mins to reset computer and fast idle problem appeared at that time.

Have you disconnect the engine and allowed it idle for a while to relearn idle speed?

If this does not help. Disconnect the IAC and plug the port. Does idle drop significantly, possibly to low to run?

I'll look into the IAC, but, think it may be a TPS prolbem. Going to check that to.

Sorry,

I meant to disconnect the battery, reconnect and allow the engine to idle. This allows the computer to 'relearn' idle.

If this does not help, plug off the IAC port. This will let us know if there is a leak, or a computer/sensor problem.

Thanks, I knew what you meant and appreciate the advice.

1992 Chev S-10 Blazer Drive Train / Driveline   

When making tight turns in 4WD, it feels like something is dragging in the back of the vehicle to the point that the vehicle lurches a little and the back tires are not rolling smoothly so they actually squeal. It was much worse when the tires were low, and I have since inflated them to spec, but the vehicle just does not drive smoothly in this situation.

Are you driving on a slippery surface when this occurs? If not, it may be considered normal.

No. Dry pavement. It feels like something is catching, like something is out-of-sync.

It is a common complaint when in 4WD on dry pavement. You are correct the front and back wheels turn at different speeds causing you to get the out-of-sync reaction. Only make tight turns while on mud/snow conditions.

So it is normal to hear the tires actually squeal like happens when you take off too fast from dead stop? It sounds like I am laying rubber.

How long does it last?

Very shortly, just as long as I am in a tight turn. And it is not consistent, just sporadic through the turn.

Sometimes the brakes can due this, but there is not really a reason for them to only do it when the 4WD is on. This is also true for the other components thein rear of the truck. The only thing that changes is that the front wheels are also connected to the drive train. It is possible you have a problem with the front differential that is contributing to the problem.

Why are you using 4WD on dry pavement? If you have your owners manual, look in it to see if it warns against this.

1992 Chev S-10 Blazer Fuel System   

Z vin 4.3 litre (not Vortec). Black smoke, runs rich and smells like gas. No visible gas leaks. Runs strong but stutters at 1/4 pedal when almost coasting. Any ideas on what to fix/replace? I just bought the truck so I know no history on it.

The first thing I recommend checking is the fuel pressure regulator. Pull off the vacuum hose and inspect for raw fuel. If found the regulator is bad, in not-

The map sensor is another strong possibility. Is the check engine light on?

A leaking fuel injector can also cause this. Pull the spark plugs (engine cold) and inspect- how many plugs are black (or wet)?

I did forget to mention that the check engine light comes off and on. I have a cheap code reader at home so I will grab the code to see if it is the map sensor. Thanks for the tip, I will check out the vacuum line like you said and check the plugs. I will post again tomorrow after I do all of this. Thanks!

Okay, let me know and we'll continue.

It was the O2 sensor. read code 44, replaced the sensor and it ran like brand new. gained 30 hp at least!

1991 Chev S-10 Blazer Drive Train / Driveline   

I got a frre Blazer. When shiftin up from 1st there was nothing there, and it barely moved in 1st. I checked the fluid and it looked like it had never been changed. I changed fluid and filter. Then it went into 1st, 2nd, and reverse just fine. But shifting up from 2nd there is nothing there. Let the RPMs drop and it slides back into 2nd or first.

A flush may help as it seems the transmission has been sitting for some time. If you are lucky the problem is only in the valve body and will free up.

Did the previous owner mention any problems with the transmission?

He said the Blazer was his wife's for years, that he had just had a crate motor put in 12,000 miles ago, and that he gave it to his teenage son. Was getting rid of it because he lost his job and didn't want the added insurance payments. It did sit for a while, but I do not know how long. This is the 4 door model 4wd that has the crossmember in the way of the pan. Because of that and the looks of the fluid I was guessing it hadn't been changed or at least not for a long while.

Do I just keep driving it and hope it breaks free or drive it and change the fluid and filter over and over?

A power flush would be ideal but no guarantee it would fix the problem.

Sometimes additives will do the trick, such as Lucas TranX or the other brand that sells next to it on the shelf. Because improving the lubrication (with your previous fluid change) gave back some function, it seems worth a shot to try an additive that free's gummy parts. If there is mechanical damage it will not help, in which case the transmission will need to be disassembled or replaced.

1990 Chev S-10 Blazer Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving Always

Hi, I have a 1990 S10 Blazer. It was driving fine, then after shutting if off for about 5 minutes to run inside the house and starting it up again, it would barely move forward or backwards. It seems to have no power. It does move when the engine reaches higher RPM's (sorry no tachometer to give an actual reading). Also, I heard it shift from first to second after reaching a speed of about 5-8 mph. Upon shifting, it continued with no power and high RPM's.

Any thought on what this might be (possible a broken torque converter or etc?) I'm about ready to pull the trans. out, but is there anything you recommend checking first? Am I correct in thinking that the transmission itself may be ok since it shifts?

Thanks. By the way, the transmission was just rebuilt about 20,000 miles ago.

Hello, How well does the engine respond to the accelerator when the transmission is out of gear (Park or Neutral)? Does the check engine light come on? Is the exhaust restricted (old catalytic converter, muffler)? Is the transmission fluid full?

Do you have any remaining warranty on the transmission rebuild? Was the torque converter replaced?

Please advise,

Roger

Thanks for getting back to me. The engine responds well to the accelerator. I haven't noticed a change in this aspect. The check engine light does not come on. The exhaust does not appear to be restricted. The transmission fluid is full to the proper level. It had a transmission fluid/filter change about 1 week before it broke down.

Unfortunately, the transmission was still under the milage warranty, but the time warranty had expired by about six months. The repair shop was unwilling to be of assistance without my paying full price for them to fix it again. I don't know if the torque converter was replaced at the same time. I may be able to find out by calling the repair shop to see if they have records.

Thanks for your help. Any ideas would be appreciated.

There are tests that need to be run on the transmission. Outside of a road test with a professional you have little hope of a cheap fix.

Your repair bill for the overhaul should list the parts used. If the torque converter was not replaced it might be the cause. And, the overhaul was recent enough you should not need "everything" again. Labor is the monster here. Even a seal/gasket can be deep enough in the transmission to be labor intensive.

Did a national chain transmission shop overhaul yours? Is there a home office you could appeal your case to? Have you considered offering to pay part of the repair? The shop may be thinking you only want it redone for free.

Is this vehicle a "keeper"? It's decision time. You could get a used trans and save some money but your risk remains high. How you should choose to invest from here is difficult to advise.

Roger

1990 Chev S-10 Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems  Happens always Always

The radio went out adn then the fan for the a/c and heater and now the dome light does not come on I checked the fuses and that is not the problem Thanks

Use a test light to first determine which is missing, the postive or the ground. One end of meter to a known good ground and other to circuit your testing? Got positive voltage?

1990 Chev S-10 Blazer Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

The truck was stolen and they tore up the steering column how do you replace?

I need to remove and replace a 1990 S10 Blazer steering column

Replacing the top half of the steering column, although possible requires special skill and specialized tools. I would not recommend it.
A used S-10 Pickup or Blazer column is easy to find at an autowrecker and simple to change.
1)Disconnect Battery
2) Remove coupler @ steering Box
3)Remove trim, below dash/column area.
4)Disconnect electrical plugs on column
5)Remove 10mm flange bolts at base of column
you might have to pull back catpet to
do this.
6)Remove 2 15mm column underdash nuts.
7)Lower column,You might have to wiggle it
a bit going throuh the firewall,
8)Reassemble in reverse
If you have the replacement part on hand, you can use it for reference purposes, to locate the plugs and bolts.
Average time to Re and Re a column is about one and a half hours.
Bruce

Do you have any reference pictures of the coupler, it looks like there might be a covering over the bolt

Plastic cover just snaps off.If you require a photo,I require an email as I cannot send pictures with this venue.You should not require one as if you look close at the cover, you will see 2 or three clips.

I need to remove and replace a steering column on a 1990 S10 Blazer, how to with reference pictures would be great. Thanks

My email is [redacted]

Hello, Bruce has given you sound advice. But, you released the question for others to answer...and without explanation.

Having said that, after I send this message to you I ask you to confirm you intended to release the question and then I ask you to release it again.

Bruce earned your business and needed your email address to continue.

I hope you'll understand, and I hope Bruce will retake your question.

Roger

I'm sorry for the misunderstanding, he has given me sound advice. I new to this and hit the wrong buttons. I am satisfied with his replies.

Also if he has pictures to reference it would be greatly appreciated, my email is [redacted]

Attention All Technicians!

BRUCE, PLEASE CONTINUE YOUR WORK WITH THIS CUSTOMER.

Thanks,

Roger

I will see if I can send some pics.tomorrow,
there must be a glitch in the system, as I did not release.
Bruce

Thanks John

1990 Chev S-10 Blazer Drive Train / Driveline   

I don't know if this is a drivtrain problem but after about 55mph on the hwy I get the most untolerable seat vibration. The enigine runs smooth as silk, the steering is good. I had upper balljoints done alignment. My kidneys are killing me What do you sudjest?

Hello
sounds like a bad tire causing the vibration. Try to feel for which on it is and change it out with the spare and recheck it.
Heavychevy

Cool, thanks for the info. I'll change it today.
If that isn't it could it possibly be the drivshaft, ujoint or rear bearings?

9 out of 10 times its the tires either a belt in the tire broke or a wight fell off from the wheel. It is possibly driveshaft related but very unlikly. If the blazer has been abused as with off roading and I mean off roading than I would say look for a out of balance driveshaft.
Heavychevy

Thanks Heavychevy,
You're god sent bro.
Dave from the great white north

No problem man. You have a good day.
Heavychevy from the lonestar state

Hello
Just doing a follow to check the progress of your Blazer. Feel free to contact anytime. If you are satisfied please click the ok button. Have a nice day.
Thank you
Heavychevy

1989 Chev S-10 Blazer Windows / Glass Malfunction Happens always 

The tailgate opening "Switch" on the tailgate lock has been broken and spins freely. I need to know how to get the tailgate open so that I can replace the lock switch. Please help me!!! Thank you in advance for any help you can provide! Todd

Todd,
The standard method is to remove the inner panel with the gate closed, you will have to force it a bit. After it is off, you can do your work, or sometimes you can reach in and flip the latch manually while the panel is partially removed.
Dale

Thank you for your response! How is the best way to partially remove or remove the inside panel without damaging it? How and where is the panel secured to the tailgate? Also, once exposed, how can the release be triggered? Thank you!

Todd,
Check around the outside edges of the panel. If there are any screws, they will be near the edges or behind a light or speaker panel. After any screws are removed, use a screwdriver or panel remover to pull or pry the panel away from the door. When you are inside the panel, follow the rods from the "switch" and you will see what they move. Do the same thing manually, and WaLaa!
Dale

1989 Chev S-10 Blazer Engine  Happens always Always

My fan clutch on my 4.3 V6started to sound like it was stuck on because the fan would rev up when you stepped on the gas. So i put a new fan clutch on today and it made no difference. I didn't start having problems until i put on the throttle body spacer. Someone told me that it might have something to do with low transmission fluid level so I stared checking the transmission fluid very frequently. Would the spacer have anything to do with or low fluid levels or what?

Hello, Well that is wierd. Even at slow speeds with the engine warmed up the fan clutch will engage until the temperature of the air moving across it cools the spring inside the clutch housing enough to let the fan freewheel. So, you'll hear it until you get moving and then the sound dimenishes as fan freewheeling occurs.

How is my description different from your Blazer's operation?

Is the spacer a factory part or an aftermarket addition? I can't concur a corrolation between a low fluid level and a fan clutch engagement unless cooling fans are electric and transmission fluid temperature is rising due to slippage.

Am I up to speed with your question at all?

Please advise,

Roger

The throttle body spacer is not a factory part. It is made to give more horsepower. The thermostat is new but the factory thermostat was a 195 and i think i put 165 and the motor runs cooler. Do youthink I need to switch them back?

No, I don't think switching back to a 195 will remedy your concern. There may be somewhat less fuel burn efficiency at the cooler temp...not a real problem.

With the engine stopped, can you easily turn the fan blade when the engine is hot or cold?

Roger

No. It is hard to turn like it supposed to be. But before I changed it the old one was hard to turn to but it was grity when I turned and the chilton manual said it was bad if it was like that so I changed it. Do youthink the new clutch is bad?

Not if it turns by hand (engine stopped) with only slight effort on a cold engine and is more difficult to turn by hand on a warm engine.

Have you considered a different pitch fan blade? It might be quieter..

Roger

Please update the status of your question.

How can I help?,

Roger

1989 Chev S-10 Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start When starting Always

is there a "main fuse" for the whole car? Everything with my Blazer was fine and I started it in my driveway and 2 seconds later the whole thing shuts down...no electrical function AT ALL. Battery still is fully charged...help

"There is a main fuse after the battery possible a 40 amp
and may be located in the engine comartment
in another fuse box.
If your fuse is good then You will probably have a bad cable connection at either the post itself or a main large cable
possibly the groung cable or the hot to the starter or starter relay, move some wires around and see what gives
I hope this helps
Macconneck"

how would i have any idea where that "under hood" fuse box is located??
thanks for your help

it will be on the inside part of the fender or right behind the battery
there should be cables leading right to it

nope - wires go under the engine and disappear...no fender mounted fuse box anywhere...are you sure there is another fuse or does this go right to the main fusebox in the cabin?

do you have headlights or anthing working at all?
there may be a fusable link mounted near the firewall

no- absolutely NOTHING works. Just after i started the car everything shut down...no lights, no noises, even the electrical tailgate release does not work...

I really believe that you have a problem with the connection from your battery posts and the fuse box itself
Check your cable connections this is a common problem with starting trouble.
possibly corrosion or a cable not making contact
You would want to follow thw main cables from the battery and check the ground wire to your motor and chasis

yea, i have done all that - cables have been removed and cleaned. battery is fully charged...all the ground wires I can see are secure...do you have a wiring diagram on hand to confirm the existance and location of the "main fuse"

I do not see a relay box holder for that year I am finding a breaker in line with the main wire going to the fuse box it does not indicate exactly where but most likely under the steering column close by the fuse box

1988 Chev S-10 Blazer Engine Hesitating Happens always Always

I have a couple of questions.. I have a 88 4.3 TBI s-10 blazer 1- When I start the truck, it takes about 3-4 turns before it starts. I just gave it a tune-up and it still does it. What is the EGR and EAC and what do they do? Do they cause the rough idle my truck has. What is that cylinder-like unit of the right side of the distributor cap. What kind of sensor is it.

EAC Valve:
electric air control valve. This is the GM version of a diverter air gulp valve, providing three functions in a single valve:
the normal diverter valve function, i.e., it diverts air on rapid increase in manifold vacuum;
it relieves pressure by diverting air to the air cleaner when the air injection system pressure exceeds a certain set level;
being solenoid-controlled, it allows air to be diverted under any desired operating mode.

EGR- Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve. Introduces exhaust gas into the intake manifold. The exhaust gas is reburnt which causes the combustion temps to decrease (high temps causes pinging and an increase in harmful exhaust gases).

Some things to get started.

1. A vacuum leak can cause hard starting and rough idle. If your main problem is a vacuum leak the engine will run better at higher rpm's.
An egr valve that is partially open at idle is the equivalent of a vacuum leak. Once all other vacuum leaks have been eliminated remove the egr valve and block it's passageway and see if idle improves.

2. The extended cranking time to start engine
can also be caused by the fuel pump not running as it should. Listen for the fuel pump to prime for a couple seconds when you first turn on the key and when engine is cranking.

3. Scan the computer for troublecodes. Easy to do, need instructions?

Also here is a link that should be helpful if you don't have a repair manual for your blazer.
Highlight, Edit, Copy, and Paste it into your address bar.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=beginRepairGuide

Under Emission Controls you will find instructions for self diagnostics of the computer trouble codes.

1988 Chev S-10 Blazer Electrical / Lighting Systems   

On the distributor cap what is the firing order for the engine. I did a tune up and need to find out which plug goes where?

Hello, What engine please?

Roger

4.3 v6 non vortech.

1-6-5-4-3-2 Clockwise.

on the distributor where does number 1 go cause there are 6 posts that go around and one in the middle. Where does number 1 go then I can figure it out from there.

where does the number 1 spark plug wire go on the distributor cap?

The one in the center is the coil wire position.

Facing from the radiator and looking to the rear...

#1 is at 6 o'clock if your view is directly above the distributor. #4 will be at 12 o'clock and closest to the firewall.

The cylinders are numbered from front to rear. On the driver's side of the engine is 1,3, 5. On the passenger's side of the engine the cylinders are 2,4, 6.

Make sense?

Roger

On the cap there are two posts close to the firewall which one is number 4?

5 3 1
3 2 F
4 0 1 A
5 6 N
6 4 2
This is the way it is drawn in the data base.

Roger

Yikes, that didn't work at all like I typed it!

The data base doesn't show where the clips that secure the cap to the distributor are located.

It shows the distributor lined up just as I described previously.

Judging from what you said about two posts closest to the firewall and a clockwise firing order the second one closest to the firewall would be #4.

Sorry about the crazy way my last message appeared. It looked great before I clicked SEND.

Roger

If you cannot determine which post is #1 try removing the spark plug from cylinder #1.

Bump the starter until the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is on "0" or TDC.
Is #1 piston at the top of the stroke? Does the rotor point toward the front of the vehicle? Yes? See next step. No? Rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees. to "0" again.

Place the cap over the distributor and the post closest to the rotor tip should be #1.

Any help?

Roger

I need to advise a correction to my last message. Please look at the paragraph below and note that in the last sentence I have corrected the final rotation of the crankshaft from 180 degrees to 360 degrees.

"Bump the starter until the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is on "0" or TDC.
Is #1 piston at the top of the stroke? Does the rotor point toward the front of the vehicle? Yes? See next step. No? Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees. to "0" again."

Roger

How are you doing on this one please?

Thanks,

Roger

What is the status here please?

Thanks,

Roger

1987 Chev S-10 Blazer Drive Train / Driveline   

I have had my Blazer for about 2 years and it has always made a noise in 4 wheel drive. This only occurs in 4 wheel drive. It has never been a problem. Lately, when I put it back in 2 wheel drive the light that indicates that the front differential is still engaged does not go out and I can still hear the noise but not as loud. That tells me that maybe the 4 wheel drive is not disengaging completely. The rear tires are the only ones turning, as should be. I have adjusted the shift linkage for the 4 wheel drive and it is all working properly. It shifts smoothly from 4 to 2 wheel drive so I assume the transfer case is working fine also. I also checked the wiring on the shift lever that controls the lights and they are fine. The wierd thing, at least to me, is that if I let it sit for a couple of hours and then restart it the light is off and it is back in 2 wheel drive. Is there any electrical or vacuum mechanism that could cause this? I am lost. I would appreciate any help. Thanks.

I am certain you do not want to hear this, but, REBUILD TIME! The noise is from a part of the assembly that is worn. The disconnect is sluggish and is not reacting as it should. That assembnly needs to be taken apart, cleaned, defective parts replaced, and reassembled with a good grease that is designed for 4 wheel drive service. Do not scrimp to save a penny or two. Such stinginess could have you back in the repair shop sooner, at a greater expense than the better grade of grease cost would cost.

When you say it needs rebuilding, what is it that needs rebuilding? The transfer case?

Yes, transfer case. The axles will also need to be looked at. There should not be any noticeable noise. Since there is, there is a mechanical problem and it needs to be fixed. The light problem indicates a switch is not operating properly. This is controlled, usually, by a mechanical device. This device, or the switch itself, is not operating as it should.

1985 Chev S-10 Blazer Engine Won't Start Happens sometimes When warm 

My 1985 S-10 blazer will quit running every 14-21 days for no apparent reason; While driving,it will sputter and choke, then just quit running. The last time I let it sit for approx six hours and at that time it started once again, and ran just fine.

Checked the fuel pump is working. I've replaced the ignition modulator. Has engine with only 10,000 miles; leads not a drop of oil; rebuilt carb. I found the first one had no protective silicon applied, so I thought that was the problem. I replaced the second one(quality dealer part) with silicon before installing and about three to four wks later the same result. Any ideas?

You may want to just buy a rebuilt distributor. It comes with the pickup coil installed. You just move your new module over to the rebuilt. No fuss, and no chance of messing up the mechanism.

1985 Chev S-10 Blazer Engine   

The vacume line that comes off the bottom of the distributer is broken off 5 inches from the distributer. I can't seem to locate the other end. Where does it run from the distributer to ?????

Hi;
It runs to the back of the throttle body. Under the hood there should be a vaccuum diagram. Good Luck Les

1985 Chev S-10 Blazer Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

I want to replace the brake vaccuum booster and have the replacement. How is the rod connected to the brake pedal and how do I disconnect/reconnect the rod from the pedal?

Hello, Have you examined the rod connection at the brake pedal?

Roger

Look for a retainer and washer to remove and possibly the brake light switch will also require removal to disconnect the booster rod from the brake pedal arm.

Roger

Hi. Got it OK. My very best thanks to you for the help! The booster is fixed with 4 self-locking nuts (or stiff at any rate) on extra long bolts so I canīt get an ordinary socket over. Any tips apart from patience and hard work :-) ?? Regards Georg

What works for me is a deep socket with a universal joint and a long enough extension to allow me to work from an angle.

Those nuts are indeed self locking type and will be stiff to turn the entire length of the bolt.

Roger

Thanks, I should be OK now for the rest of the way. The website is a good idea and great for people like me. All the best with it.
Georg

I thank you sir! Please click on OK to finish up.

Roger

1984 Chev S-10 Blazer Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction Happens always 

show me how the vaccum hoses are hooked up on the transfer case to the engine so that my 4 wheel drive engages and disengages.i also need a diagram of how all the vaccum hoses in the engine compartment are hooked up.

Highlight, edit, copy, and paste this link into you address bar.

http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=beginRepairGuide

This repair guide offers vacuum diagrams under emmissions controls.

1984 Chev S-10 Blazer Drive Train / Driveline   

i just bought an 84 blazer 4x4 and it wont go over 12 mph. so i look down and the 4 wheel low light is glowing. so i shift into 2 hi ( while stopped) and nothin happend. i took it to my shop and took the transfer case out and it was fine but rebuilt it any way. so i manually put the transfer case in 2 hi and hooked it back up and it still says 4 low and wont go over 12 mph. its an 84 so there cant be a computer making it think its in 4 low. please help

Is this an automatic transmission? What gear is the transmission in at 12 mph's?

Does the engine rev real loud at 12 mph? Or is the engine itself not getting up to speed?

automatic 700 r4. im pretty sure first. it has never changed. but it werid because it still "crawling" like 4 low but i know the transfer case is in 2 hi. and it slowly winds out like it would in 4 low. thanks

If it is in two wheel drive but the front still turns hard inspect the front axle actuator to see if it is stuck on.

IS the front drive shaft turning when in two hi?

no. when i took out the transfer case it was in 4 low. so i put it in 2 hi then put it back in the truck. and it's still doing the same thing. the shift lever is in 2 hi as well but the 4 low light is still on. and for some reason its slowly crawling like 4 low. when i know its in 2 hi.