Chev S-10 Pick-up

2002 Chev S-10 Pick-up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I HAVE A DIM HEADLIGHT RIGHT SIDE. THE GROUND IS GOOD.I HAVE 14V TO LIGHT. NO HI BEAM. RT AN LT HIGH BEAMS ARE ON VERY DIM IN THE LO BEAM POSITION. IN THE HIGH BEAM BEAM POSITION I HAVE LT BEAM ONLY. IF I RUN BATTERY VOLTS TO RIGHT SIDE BULB IT WORKS FINE.

Definatly sounds like the switch.
Apparently a fairly common problem
with GM from that era.

what switch (the headlight switch?

Yes the h/l switch.

I REPLACED THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH, NO GOOD! I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM.THE COST OF THE SWITCH IS $43.00 THAT I CAN NOT RETURN.I AM NOT A WISE GUY, BUT I CAN'T AFORD FOR YOU TO GESS AT THIS PROBLEM.DO YOU KNOW THE SOLUTION TO MY PROBLEM?

I HAVE RECIEVED NO ANSWER TO MY LAST QUESTON.I PAYED $150.00 TO GET MY PROBLEM CK.OUT.THE PROBLEM IS FIXED.IT WAS NOT THE H/l SWITCH! I WILL NOT PAY YOU $30.00, YOU COST ME OVER $40.00 FOR THE H/l SWITCH,I DID NOT NEED.IF YOU HAD TOLD ME (TO CK. ALL I REPEAT ALL OF THE FUSES).IN CONNECTION WITH THE HEADLIGHTS YOU WOULD HAVE SOLVED MY PROBLEM.IF I SEE A CHARGE TO MY CREDIT CARD IT WILL BE PUT IN DISPUITE.THE SERVICES RENDERED ARE A (WAG) WILD ASS GESS AT BEST. I NEED A CONTACT TO EXPLAIN MY POSITION.

Asking someone to check all their fuses is like checking the wall plug when tv not working!I assumed you did that.The question is now WHY the fuse is blown...

I am on the tech end of this system, but I understand that the payment does not happen till you are satisfied.Check your credit card statement on line to verify.
Bruce

1998 Chev S-10 Pick-up Fuel System Won't Start When starting Always

no fuel pressure at top of engine checked fuel pump and found ony 5 volts on one of three leads, swaped around relays for fuel system still no 12 volts at pump, in the past I aways heard a hum from fuel pump, engine will run when sparying carb cleaner in intake, also checked wiring from relay to pump all good but did not find fuse labled fuel pump. is their a fuse, must be right? also is thier a sensor on fuel systems that tells the pump to run or does it run all the time?

Hello, When the key is turned to ON the fuel pump should run for two seconds and stop to pressure up the fuel injector rail.

Once the key is turned to START the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will sense the engine is cranking and that there is oil pressure so the PCM will energize the fuel pump relay. The fuel pump will run continuously until the PCM loses crank signal or oil pressure data.

Have you looked under the hood for a relay/fuse box and checked those fuses? Fuel pumps generally run on a 20 amp circuit.

I'll check for a fuse box roster and see what I can find for you.

What color wire are you reading the approx 5 volts on? What size engine, please?

Roger

The wiring diagram I am looking at shows the fuse label to say "ECM B" 20 amp and should have power at all times.

This fuse sends power to the fuel pump relay on an Orange Wire. The PCM/ECM will send power to the relay via a DK Green/White Wire to energize the relay. When the relay energizes it will send power to the fuel pump on a Gray Wire.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

I need to hear from you as to the status of this question, please.

Still want help?

Roger

1998 Chev S-10 Pick-up Fuel System   

fuel pump seems not to work you have to rap the tank with a hammer and now that din' even work.

it is high time to change that fuel pump
you will have to drop the fuel tank disconect the fuel inlet neck and loosen up the bond to get the hose off
there will be a lot of rust holding it together at firt it will seem solid.
you can use a hammer to help knock it loose
watch out for sparks that is something you will not need.
I hope this helps

"it is high time to change that fuel pump
you will have to drop the fuel tank disconect the fuel inlet neck and loosen up the bond to get the hose off
there will be a lot of rust holding it together at firt it will seem solid.
you can use a hammer to help knock it loose
watch out for sparks that is something you will not need.
I hope this helps"

I concur with the previous answer. You might want to check the connections etc. but I am 99.% sure you require a new fuel pump.

1998 Chev S-10 Pick-up Drive Train / Driveline   

1998 chev s-10. 4cyl 5speed. I have a driveline vibration. I have changed the clutch assy about 6 months ago. No vibration. Vibration started to come on slowly in the last month. Removed and replaced the u joints and had the drive shaft balanced. There is no whining or growling of any bearings and everything is tight. It happens above 25 mph in any gear. You can go 50 and push in the clutch and take it out of gear and the vibration does not change with the clutch in or out. Or the trans in gear or out. Vibration gets worse with higher speed. Not driveable. Also, Put on jack stands and ran truck but no vibration. Only on highway. Tires are also in good condition. Did rotate to see but no change. Not sure what else to check. Seems like its from the rear end but with the truck out of gear the trans is still spinning. axles in the rear checked and seemed ok. any help ?

Hello, Have you had the rear wheels balanced while still mounted on the vehicle?

What do the mountings and U-bolts look like on the rear springs? Shocks ok?

Does the driveshaft yoke slide easily on the tranny output shaft?

Roger

yes all of those things are good. I did notice this morning that the drive shaft was not centered on the yoke. There is not tabs to center the drive shaft so now it is alot better. Do I just try to center the shaft by eye and play with the centering to get it close?

Talk to who balanced the driveshaft. That should fall under the work you paid them for.

Are there snap rings missing to control the centering?

Roger

The snap rings are not missing. I was talking to my buddy about how you would put on the drive shaft on a Full size 1500 and he says that there are ridges on the yoke so that the driveshaft and the ujoint are centered automatically. On s10s you have to allign the ujoint with the yoke. If you are alittle off, it vibrates. I fixed the problem and the vibration is gone. It drives like a dream. I appreciate all the help. It is just wierd to see this and that you must allign the ujoint and the yoke so that it doesn't vibrate. Anyways, thanks.

Ready to close this question? Please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

1997 Chev S-10 Pick-up Fuel System  Happens always Always

Fuel gage indicates FULL all the time. I have to use the odometer and keep track of fuel by miles traveled to make sure I don't run out. Is it the gage itself or the sender or what? How do I diagnose it? How much for the dealer to do this repair?

Hi;
It can be either one. For the dealer to repair this you are looking at about $300.00. You can disconnect thewires going to the sending unit and take the gray wire and ground it out and it should read empty.if it doesn't then most likely you have a bad gage or wiring harness. Good Luck Les.

1997 Chev S-10 Pick-up Fuel System   

Replace fuel pump. Gas gauge works every now and then. Pump does not run. what is wrong.

Hi, Have you rechecked the connections/terminals for clean and tight fit? Is the ground wire connection tight?

Roger

1996 Chev S-10 Pick-up Engine   

I have been have this problem for a while. after my truck warms up the oil pressure drops very low when idling so low that the check gauges light comes on I just changed my oil a week ago and the same thing keeps happening. everything else is normal it doesnt heat up or anything. any Ideas

Hi, A couple things come to mind. First inspect the oil pan for damage. If it is dented the pick up screen for the oil pump may be in a shallow area of the pan.

Substitute a known good oil pressure test guage in place of the factory original oil pressure sending unit location on the engine. Compare to see if the oil pressure is really lower than normal. If the low pressure is NOT verified with the test guage replace the original oil pressure sending unit with a new one and retest.

If low pressure is verified you'll need to measure the wear on the crankshaft and cam bearings to see if they need replaced. If the bearings are ok then replace the oil pump and retest.

Roger

Thanks roger, I will do so as soon as time allows
I will let you know the out come thanks.

I'll watch for your report.

Thanks,

Roger

1996 Chev S-10 Pick-up Drive Train / Driveline   

I am finding since buying my truck that while you are moving at slow speeds and usually turning the wheel at least a little or even all the way that there is a clunking noise. I find it no more often when the brakes or on or whether it is hot or cold. The noise though feels and sounds like a knuckle that is not turning smoothly.

If its a 4X4 it is probably the u-joints or cv joints in front axle. If 2wd have a competent front end shop look at the ball joints etc. Midas sometimes offers this check for free.

1996 Chev S-10 Pick-up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

MY TURN SIGNALS DON'T WORK.WHEN I HAVE THE BRAKE LIGHTS ON AND THE TURN SIGNAL ON AT THE SAME TIME THE BRAKE LIGHT (ONLY ON THE SIDE I HAVE THE TURN SIGNAL ON)TRUNS OFF.AT THE TIME I NOTICED THE DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS STOPPED WORKING.WHAT COULD IT BE? I CHECKED ALL THE FUSES THEY WERE GOOD.

First I would check the rear wiring near the bumper, especially if there is trailer light wiring present. If all ok, remove taillights and check ground connections. If they are all good, then I would suspect the daytime running module. They do fail.

1995 Chev S-10 Pick-up All Part Groups   

my s10 will not start when you turn the key nothing happens the light do not dim or anything no sound at all you can not tell in any way that you even turned the key to start battery is full charged

Hello, Test for battery voltage arriving at the starter solenoid "S" terminal. This is the smaller gauge wire at the starter. It should have voltage only when the key is in the start position.

Try starting the truck in neutral if it is an automatic.

Check the clutch safety switch at the top of the clutch pedal arm if it is a standard tranny.

Roger

1995 Chev S-10 Pick-up Drive Train / Driveline   

I recently replaced the throw out bearing on my s10 To position it corretly I removed the slave piston to releave preasure on the fork that the bearing sits in two days later the clutch stopped working could have I gotten the end of the operating rod from the slave piston in the wrong place or what do you think could be wrong

Check the slave cylinder itself for any leaking. Missposition of the rod is possible but it sounds as if it were, the rod would over extend causing the slave to fail.

1992 Chev S-10 Pick-up Brake System Failing Happens always Always

The brake warning light is on. It is flashing a pattern of three short and one long. Braking is not normal. Pedal sinks to near the floor. Fluid in reservoir stays full. I cannot see any indication of leaks. When the reservoir cap is off and brakes are depressed, fluid sprays out of the reservoir in the half closest to the dashboard. I replaced the master cylinder with a remanufactured one and it is doing the same thing. Was the replacement cylinder also bad or is there something else wrong? Thanks.

Not unusual for reman mstr cylinders to bypass internally, from one chamber to the other.
At my shop, we use rebuilt master cylinders only as a last resort, preferring new ones, for that reason.The cost is not that prohibitive, and we are talking about a sefety item...
I am assuming that all the air was bled out and the master cylinder was 'bench bled' before it was installed?
If you are doing it by yourself, Russell (of stainless braid hose fame) makes a bleeder valve that makes brake bleeding a cinch. They call it a speed bleeder.

Yes, the master cylinder was bench bled and we bled all the lines. Please confirm: I'm understanding you to say that the problem is the master cylinder and the spraying out we are observing is due to the mstr cylinder bypassing internally, from one chamber to the other which is a bad thing. Thanks.

Yes it sounds like a bad master cylinder.Each chamber is designed to operate independantly.If the fault lies in the diaphram, between the two chambers, then you will have a low pedal, as the fluid is going into a non pressurized area ( the reservoir)I have come across that problem so many times, that I cannot remember how often.
By the way, I am an ASE tech, and former asst. mgr of the local Midas, ad we did brakes every day.

1992 Chev S-10 Pick-up Engine   

i have a 92 s-10 with a 2.5l 4cyl, it set for 3 months and now it runs for 30-45mins and then runs ruff and sometimes dies, let it set for a little bit and then it runs for 30-45mins, replaced the plugs and wires, cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve, injector, and TB, sometimes it has a miss and sometimes not, Thanks, Josh McNabb Hallettsville, TX Joshuamcnabb@yahoo.com

First thing I would do is completely drain the gas tank and fill with fresh gas.And change filter.Could have water in tank. Also run a good injector cleaner in the tank.
Then I would hook up a scanner to see if there are any codes.
Then I would do a fuel pressure test
Check egr operation

1992 Chev S-10 Pick-up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

brake lights dont work

Hello, Check the fuse. If good, check for power arriving at the brake light switch. If power arrives at the brake light switch apply the brake and see if power leaves the switch. If power leaves the switch it must go through the turn signal switch and then to the bulbs in the brake light sockets.

Do you need wire colors>?

Roger

1991 Chev S-10 Pick-up All Part Groups   

I am looking for the mounting bracket that mounts the compressor to the motor. 1991, S10 sperpentine. Can you help?

Do you want a new one or a used part?

Which engine do you have?

the engine is 2.5 and I would take both.

If this will help any the bin # is
1GCCS14AOM[redacted]

Thank You

I'll try to locate one tomorrow.

Thank You

I am still looking for my truck part. I have a 1991 Chevy S-10 p/u. Vin #1GCCS14AOM[redacted] , 2.5L 4cyl.
I need the bracket that mounts the air compressor to the motor. The air compressor is on the drivers side and is part of the serpintine belt assy. Right now I have a small serpintine belt on the motor that by-passes the air compressor. I still have heat but no air conditioning.

Thomas Newell

It seems my previous reply did not go through. I'll see if I can locate another one. If you leave your email address I send information directly to you.

OK, my email address is [redacted]

Thanks

Tom Newell

1991 Chev S-10 Pick-up Drive Train / Driveline   

1991 s-10 PU, 2WD, 4.3 liter, 4 speed Automatic, 107,000 miles. TRUCK DROVE FINE til I had rear trans mount replaced. Now has "low speed shudder" (0 to 45 mph). (bad vibration). U-joints checked OK. Suspect drive shaft out of phase with trans (drive shaft not inserted into origional splines of trans). or, front motor mounts worn out. Anything else cause this problem?

Hi, I'm with you. If the driveshaft was not indexed to the output shaft splines there is a chance a shudder could result. Or, it may be that the splines require lubrication.

If splines bind the truck might offer a thump on take-off from a stop and again just as you release the brakes after coming to the next complete stop.

If when the driveshaft was removed the u-joints were not taken apart or replaced try clocking the connection to the rear end 180 degrees. Leave the splined end alone. In most cases it is not the splined end (yoke) that one must try to put back exactly where it was before removal.

Your thoughts?

Roger

Roger, Thanks for your time. There is no thump so splines are not binding. The Front Motor mounts are being replaced as We Type. This was the guess of the technician working on it and I thought it wouldn't be a bad idea to Enshure the engine and trans were restored to factory mounting. This will also isolate the drive shaft as the cause. I will know tomorrow. Then we do as you suggest. Besides if the mechanic who did the job on the trans mount did not mark and replace the shaft into the origional splines it would take a lot of hassle (trial and error) to solve the problem. That would be the second to last thing to try. Would replacing the shaft with a new BALLANCED shaft help? Thanks again, I'll let you know how this goes. Jim

Jim, There is no wisdom in replacing the driveshaft with a new balanced one unless there is a technical service bulletin calling for it. Your existing driveshaft can be balanced if need be for much less money.

My thoughts go back to your stating the truck was fine until replacing the rear tranny mount. I hesitate to concur replacing the engine mounts will remedy the shudder.

Want to try a simple test? Put a load in the bed of the truck. This will cause the driveshaft to telescope forward on the trans output shaft splines. What happened? Has the shudder been effected by this new position on the output shaft splines? Cheap test and very logical to try.

Roger

1989 Chev S-10 Pick-up Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens sometimes When warm 

truck quits when lights applied front right was recently replaced as result of collision. starts fine.

Which engine?

Also, which lights cause the engine to stall; parking, head, turn signal?

Be sure to triple check the wiring where the recent repair work was done. Look for any pinched, bare, or unhooked wiring that could be shorting to ground.

I though the truck only had 1 engine.
when headlights are turned on truck has to be
re-started . cannot drive at night.

Check the wiring harness to the headlights especially anywhere there is potential damage from the collision or repair.

There was a 4 cylinder and two 6 cylinders offered in the truck. THis may be of no importance considering it is the actual act of turning on the headlights that make the truck stall. If this is the only thing that causes the truck to stall the problem must be in this circuit. Never overlook grounds to engine and chassis, problem here can cause unpredictable problems.

1989 Chev S-10 Pick-up Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When braking Always

Brake lights work only if headlights or parking lights off.

Hello,

No matter when the brake lights are called for the power leaves the brake light switch on a white wire and goes straight to the turn signal switch.

Turn your Park lights on to minimize battery drain. Locate the turn signal switch connector at the base of the steering column. Find the white wire and see if when the brake pedal is pressed the white wire has battery voltage. ( leave the connector hooked up)

If you have battery volts at the white wire on the turn signal switch connector with the brake pedal pressed but your brake lights do not come on replace the turn signal switch in the steering column.

Please advise,

Roger

Hello, are you working on this one or are you finished?

Please update,

Roger

1988 Chev S-10 Pick-up All Part Groups   

how to install the fan belt their is no air conditioning in this truck

my son has tried several time to apply
fan belt & cannot get it to fit we even went back to the store to make sure it is the correct size it is

V-Belt Equipt engine

Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent diode damage and prevent the chance of shorting the battery cables.

Remove other components as necessary to gain access to the alternator.

Tag and disconnect the alternator wiring. Use a small screwdriver to release the locktab on the alternator connector, then use a wrench to loosen the stud nut and disconnect the terminal wiring.

Loosen the alternator lower though-bolt, then remove the alternator brace/adjuster bolt.

Pivot the alternator inward and remove the drive belt(s) from the pulley.

On some early model vehicles the heater hose(s) may interfere with alternator travel. If you are unable to pivot the alternator sufficiently to free the drive belt(s), partially drain the cooling system, disconnect and reposition the heater hose(s) for the necessary clearance.

If equipped, remove the rear mounting bolt from the engine alternator bracket.

Support the alternator and remove the lower mount bolt(s), then remove the unit from the vehicle.

To install:

Position the alternator in the vehicle and install, but do not fully tighten, the lower mounting and/or through-bolt(s).

If equipped, install the rear mounting bolt to the engine alternator bracket.

Pivot the alternator inward and position the drive belt(s) over the pulley.

If the driven component has two drive belts, the belts should be replaced in pairs to maintain proper tension. It is better to have belts too loose than too tight, because overtightened belts will lead to bearing failure, particularly in the water pump and alternator. However, loose belts may place an extremely high impact load on the driven components due to the whipping action of the belt.

Move the accessory toward or away from the engine until the tension is correct. You can use a wood hammer handle or sturdy broomstick as a lever, but do not use anything metallic.

Tighten the bolts and re-check the tension.

Install the alternator wiring as noted during removal. If equipped, make sure the rubber boot is properly positioned over the stud nut terminal at the rear of the alternator.

Connect the negative battery cable.

If new belts have been installed, run the engine for a few minutes, then re-check and readjust as necessary.


6: Depress the locktab and disengage the wiring connector from the alternator




7: Pull back the rubber boot, then loosen and remove the ring terminal retaining nut




8: With the nut removed, the ring terminal may be disconnected from the alternator




9: Loosen the mounting/pivot bolt(s)




10: Remove the alternator adjusting bolt




11: Pivot the alternator inward and remove the drive belt(s) from the pulley




12: Support the alternator and remove the mounting/pivot bolt(s)




13: Remove the alternator from the vehicle




Serpentine Belt Engines

Unlike the pivoting alternator used on many of the earlier vehicles covered by this guide, later model vehicles equipped with a serpentine drive belt utilize an alternator that is bolted into a fixed position.

See Figures 14 and 15

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

For the 4.3L (VIN W) engine, remove the air inlet duct assembly, then remove the nut retaining the radiator hose brace to the back on the alternator.

If equipped, remove the retainers, then remove the brace from the engine and/or the alternator.

Disconnect the battery terminal boot wiring from the back of the alternator, then disengage the regulator wiring connector.

Carefully relieve the serpentine drive belt tension, then remove the belt from the alternator pulley. Do not allow the tensioner to snap back into position once the belt is off the pulley.

Support the alternator and remove the mounting bolts (usually 2) from either side of the alternator, then remove the alternator from the vehicle.

To install:

Position the alternator in the vehicle and loosely install using the mounting bolts.

If equipped, loosely install the brace to the engine and/or alternator.


Tighten the retaining bolts:

For the 2.5L engine, tighten the nut on the lower mounting bolt to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm), the upper mounting bolt to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm) and the rear bolt to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).

For the 2.8L engine, tighten the lower mounting bolt to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm) for engines through 1990 or to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) for 1991 and later engines. Tighten the upper mounting bolt to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm), then as applicable, tighten the AIR pump bracket bolt, rear brace bolt and/or stud nut to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) and the rear brace-to-bracket nut to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).

For the 4.3L engine, tighten the left or front alternator bolt to 36 ft. lbs. (50 Nm), the right or rear alternator bolt to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm), the brace bolt to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) and/or the brace nut (VIN W engine only) to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm), as applicable.

Connect and secure the alternator wiring.

Carefully relieve the serpentine drive belt tension and position the belt over the alternator pulley, then slowly release the tensioner into position.

If equipped with the 4.3L (VIN W) engine, install the air inlet duct assembly.

Connect the negative battery cable.
I hope this helps

1988 Chev S-10 Pick-up Engine   

antifreeze ran into the oil pan of the 2.8 litre engine and caused a main bearing to spin. i got it shut down in time to save the block and after flatdecking it home started to look for the cause of the problem. the first thing i did was remove the intake manifold and i found that the gaskets under it were rusted. the rest of the tear down was fine. the block & heads tested good at the shop. is there another route antifreeze can take to the base?

Hello, Gaskets like intake and headgaskets are the most common followed by a cracked head or block.

The block and heads checked all right so in my opinion I believe you have it covered.

Roger

What is the status of this question please?

Roger

1983 Chev S-10 Pick-up Ignition System   

The wiring in my truck is screwwed up. I need a charging diagram as the alternator is not wired in the circuit correctly . Both fusible links are missing. It starts but the battery is not charged by the alternator.I have two wires comming from the firewall and two from the alternator and of course my positive cable runs to the starter. How do I connect all of this.

I cannot send diagram through this system.
Send an email address to this system, and I will scan one or draw a simple one, your choice

[redacted] Thanks Kevin D Mann
A simple drawing would probably be best

1982 Chev S-10 Pick-up Engine   

what do i have to do to change both V belts?Does the alternator have more than 1 bolt to loosen?and do i have to loosen the power steering pump for the other belt?

On the alternator , loosen the bolts so the alternator can twist, allowing the belt to get loose. The power steering pump has 3-5 bolts that need to be loosened so it can twist. Then slip the belt off, put the new ones on and pry/twist the accessory to make the belt tight. Tighten the bolts while holding the belt tight.

Which engine do you have the 2.0L or 2.8L and is it 2wd or 4wd and if you supply me with a email adress I can send you some step by step instuctions

On the title it says 1.9L so i guess it is the 2.o.It is a 2 wheel drive.It is so greasy it is hard to see the bolts.Thats why i need the exact location and number of bolts i have to loosen for the 2 belts.No a/c either.Thanks

I need a email address so I can send you some step by step instructions
I would definately sugest that you spray some degreaser on it to clean the work area some .
This will help you a lot

email [redacted] Thank You

Info is sent

i need to know how to remove BOTH belts.Do i have to move the power steering unit to put on the other belt?

Yes it will be easier with the pump removed