Chev Silverado

2004 Chev Silverado Engine   

2004 Checrolet Silverado 4x4 5.3L V8 90M miles
1-30 days ago check engine light on, read OBDII code P0332"Knock sensor signal frequency outside normal range". No obivous performance issues, maybe gas milage decreased.
2-Today, check engine light suddenly went out and rough idle started, then stalls when slowing, stopping or at idle. Rough shift out of low gear but runs fine at speed.
3-I disconnected battery to clear any codes and drove for awhile. Ran fine for about an hour then back to rough idle and stall. Check engine light did not come on.
4-Connected scanner and read code P0332 again but no check engine light on. What's happening here?

Hello
Its fairly a complicated thing to explain but here goes. With your KNock sensor showing outside of range The ecm is picking up on that and tring to adjust the timing accordinly. All you gonna have to do is adjust your timing and think about replacing your knock sensor.
Heavychevy

Can the timing be adjusted manually or will replacing the knock sensor cause the pcm to automatically correct the timing?

I would first adjust it close to normal change the knock sensor and clear the pcm before starting and then it will all come out ok.
Heavychevy

Just doing a follow up to check the progress on your chevy.
Heavychevy

Sorry I've taken so long to reply. I replaced both knock sensors and wiring. The back sensor was completely rusted and wire degraded. I cleared codes and it ran fine for a while. Then it started a pulsing idle/stall and stall when stopping. This only occurs once and a while not consistant. It's not showing any codes. I'm thinking electronic throttle body or fuel pressure regulator/fuel pump. What do you think is happening? If either, how to you test them?

Throttle positioning sensor

+

I had to go out of town last week, but I was able to fix the problem with the idle before I left. The throttle position sensor is part of the electronic control module on this throttle body setup. I could not buy the control module alone the dealer would only sell it as a complete unit. I went home and pulled it off and saw that there was a build up of carbon gunk around the butterfly valve. I cleaned it up, reinstalled it and everything is working great now. Thanks for your help. We can close this case, mystery solved.

Good to hear If you need anything give me a yell If you are satisfied please click the ok button. Have a good day
thank you
heavychevy

2003 Chev Silverado Engine   

My check engine light is on, when I go to check the code the scan tool will not recieve power. Have tried to reset the check engine light by removing the battery cable and the pcm fuse. The pcm connections look fine, but the engine is running kindda ruff. I have no idea where to go from here any help would be appriciated.

Have you tried another scan tool? If you visit Advance Auto or AutoZone, they will check the codes free of charge.

You can check fuses, to see if you have an issue here. If not try one of the parts stores I mentioned.

Let me know which alphanumeric codes you find.

yes i've tried other scan tools and checked all the fuses.

Hello, What engine please?

Roger

2002 Chev Silverado All Part Groups Upgrade  

Dear All-Parts; I actually own a Chev Avalanche but this wasn't in your list so I chose what I assumed to be the closest model. My question; Is there a power tail gate lock available for the Avalanche? - If not could a power lock from another model (Silverado?) be adapted to the avalanche? Thanks in advance for any information that you can provide. Yours Sincerely Paul Wilson

Hello Paul, It's after business hours now, but I'll research and get you an answer tomorrow (Sept. 19th). Will that work for you?

Thanks,

Roger

Paul, Here in the Oklahoma City area I'm told that there are aftermarket kits available to meet your needs. GM dealers here send/sublet this type accessory add-on to companies that specialize in truck accessories.

Scott (parts counterman @ Howard Chevrolet, OKC) suggested you do an on-line search for the tailgate lock kit using GOOGLE SEARCH or other search engine. Chances are there is a company near you that does custom truck work that can give you an installation quote locally. Scott said he is not aware of GM offering what you need in a kit form.

Roger

Can I get an update here, please?

Thanks,

Roger

Still need help? Ready to close this question? Please update.

Thank you,

Roger

Oct. 6, 2003

Roger;
I sent the following email on Oct 2.
I have pretty well given up on obtaining a power lock for now so please cancel the question.
Thanks.

Paul



From: PAUL M. WILSON <[redacted] >
Date: Thu Oct 2, 2003 14:32:01 America/Edmonton
To: [redacted]
Subject: Re: [ALL-PARTS] - A Mechanic Has Replied

Roger;

I have tried different searches including Google and reached one firm that seemed promising but it turned out they also do not have an automatic tail gate lock for an avalanche.
I will have to go with the key lock/unlock until or if an auto lock becomes available.

Thanks;

Paul

Thank you for the reply. I'll alert All-Parts to rule on this question as to whether or not I'll be given credit for an answer accepted.

Regards,

Roger

2002 Chev Silverado Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

It seems as if the power steering went out on the truck. You have to pull very hard on the steering wheel to make the truck turn right or left. The power steering fluid was low so I filled it, however, it did not help. There was a very small puddle underneath the truck after I filled the power steering fluid. What could be wrong?

If you can determine where the leak is from, that would be good.We are also assuming that the belt is good and not slipping.
The three likely places are:Power Steering Pump, hoses or steering box.
If you can jack the truck up so both front tires are off the ground, try working the steering back and forth to expel any air in the system.
Steering boxes are not normally a problem.
Hoses either leak or do not.
Power steering pumps do fail occasionally, so if I have to venture a guess, that would be it.
Power steering pumps are readily avail from autowreckers and as remanufactured units from your local Auto Parts Store.

How do I tell the difference if it is just the power steering pump and not the rack and pinion?

First I would check the hoses as GM did have a recall on them from that era.
The only way that I check a pump, is to disconnect the pressure hose and put a guage on it. I suppose you could disconnect the hose and put it in a container and briefly have an assistant start the engine.
This methood is not as good as a guage and its messy, but it will tell you if it is pumping.
If you call the local parts store, ask them how many they have.If they have many, assume that it is a problem part.

1999 Chev Silverado Engine Sticking When idling When cold

Can I clean a sticking throttle (valve) on my Chev 5.3 liter engine with 83,000 miles. Dealer wants $150 to do it.

Excellent work Larry!! I'm very glad to have been your coach in this matter.

Roger

It worked just beautifully. I had almost forgotten how smooth my truck could accelerate. This cleaning and a replaced set of tires, and it runs like a new Cadillac. Thank you so much.
Larry

I'd sure like to hear from you!!

Roger

Sure you can!! You'll need a spray can of choke cleaner, a small acid core brush or equivalant, some rags and a cool temp light such as a flashlight or floresent drop light .

In a well ventalated area, remove the air inlet duct as needed to access the throttle valve and bore. With the key 'OFF', prop the throttle wide open so you can get to the coking built up on the valve and throttle bore. Use your light to inspect where the valve and bore touch when the throttle is closed.

Wear eye protectiuon and spray the identified area to wash loose the coking. Scrub the bore and valve as needed with your brush and wipe what you can reach with the rag to get the junk out of there. Spray the rag itself and wipe the valve and bore 'til you like what you see and its' as clean as possible.

Close the throttle and operate by hand to check your work. Works smoothly without sticking?? You're done. Reassemble and prepare to start the engine.

Clear the area of spectators as exhaust fumes will be heavy and smokey on start-up. Not a good idea for children to be around.

Press the accelerator about 1/3rd down and crank the engine 'til it starts. It will be stubborn at first due to an overly rich air/fuel mixture. Once the engine clears this excess chemical out, you're road ready.

The $150 at the dealer often includes flushing the fuel injectors too. You may find a fuel addative to put in your fuel tank to be adequate to keep things humming.

Does it run good? Throttle smooth to come off idle? Done!!

Sail On,

Roger

Larry, will you please take the time to close this question out? It will help me to continue helping others. I do perceive you are happy with the results..

Roger

1993 Chev Silverado Fuel System   

Truck won't start. Tank is full but no fuel is getting into carburetor. Disconnected line from fuel filter, turned key and have fuel pumping from filter. The vehicle was only recently purchased and has been running very well. No start-up issues til yesterday. I had a diagnostic eval done earlier this week to determine cause of rough idling and intermittent cut-out. Mechanic said a new EGR valve was needed. It is on order and he said it would be ok to drive the vehicle until the new valve was installed. I have no idea if the two problems are related but as of this writing the truck definitely won't start. Thanks for any suggestions. John Latta

u say no gas through injectors check all fuses

1989 Chev Silverado Drive Train / Driveline   

When trying to put truck into 4 wheel high or low from neutral it makes grinding noise and will not go in and 4 wheel drive light does not come on to say it is in. Does not appear to be engageing at all. (1989, 1 ton, Chevy Silverado 4 wheel drive truck.)

Where is the noise occuring?

1989 Chev Silverado Engine   

the oil pressure gauge recently started showing little or no oil pressure. Today i had the oil changed, not because the oil was low, just because it was time to have it changed. After driving around a little, the oil pressure gauge still shows little or no oil pressure. In the past, we have had alot of wiring-type problems with the truck, since we changed out the dash and the entire enterior. Could the gauge have a problem or is it telling us there is a serious problem?

By far the best way to quickly find the problem, is to buy a cheap mechanical guage and a short line to attach directly to engine.
If it reada low press., then you have a problem
If it reads good, consider the sender, they are problem prone.
Wiring problems are not that bad with a good wiring diagram.
HAYNES SHOP MANUALS($15) HAVE DECENT WIRING DIAGRAMS

1988 Chev Silverado Drive Train / Driveline   

I need to know if you can trun a 2wd into a 4wd its a 88 pickup two door

Hi,
Technically NOT.Four wheel drive has a different transmission to which it's attached a transfer case,a mechanical component attached behind the transmission to make possible for the front wheel to turn by comand via driveshaft conected to front differential which doesn't exist in two wheel vehicles.The comand for 4x4 vehicles to activate it's made possible in two ways:
a) mecanical comand at front wheels hub(2x4 vehicles has no hub)by turning the knob in the LOCK or FREE position.Front differential being part of front suspension in this case or transfer case shifter inside the vehicle.The cover indicates 2H / N /4H / 4 L.
b) electrical comand from inside the vehicle by pushing a switch.A light bulb indicates 2H / 4H / 4 L position.This comand activates an electrical solenoid inside the transfer case and puting the transfer case in 4x4 MODE.So,finally the missing components for 4x4 vehicle compare to 2x4 vehicles are:
1) 4x4 has a front differential
2) 4x4 has a transfer case
3) 4x4 has a front differential driveshaft
4) 4x4 has a different transmission
5) 4x4 has activation mechanism for front wheels,mecanically or electric
6) 4x4 has a different front brake rotors/wheel bearings/different front suspension.

4x4 vehicles use more gasoline when activated.
Good luck.
Best regards,
Peter

what i have is a transmission out of a 4wd silverado and a transfer case the front diff what i need to know is are the chassis the same from the 2wd to the 4wd

Hi,

That can be checked at DEALERSHIP.You have to provide the year/moth of the vehicle,body weight and VIN number located on your sticker.Also,the DEALER should know these details through serial numeber.If the DEALER it is NOT help full to you an AUTO SALVAGE store will provide thse details.In Canada,they DO.
Regards,
Peter

1987 Chev Silverado Chassis / Suspension & Steering  When driving No pattern

The front driver's side brake caliber seized up last week. I replaced the caliber, rotor, brake pads and wheel bearing on both sides of truck. I properly bled the brakes (all 4 wheels). The truck did fine until today when the same thing happened - driver's side front wheel caliber seized up. Any suggestions? Could this be the combination valve?

The most common problem (and often overlooked) is the brake hose to that wheel. What happens is the hose, while looking fine on the outside, colapses on the inside and acts as a one way valve. It lets fluid travel through to apply the brake, but not back through to release.

Let me know if this solves the problem.

1987 Chev Silverado Engine   

Hi, you can help me. i'm looking for a schema computer ignition circuit for a CHEVROLET Silverado pick up - 1987 - n°serie : 1GCEV14K0HJ15467 - 8 cylinders

Require your email address, as I cannot
copy-paste one here.Send request to my email address, and I will scan one from a shop manual and send to you.
Bruce [redacted]

Hi, My email is [redacted]
Thank you

1986 Chev Silverado Fuel System   

I've been stranded alone for over three weeks shoveling snow, and now my truck won't start at all. I was rocking it backwards in the snow, pointed downwards on a steep hill, to get free of an obstacle against the door, and it started dying on me. At first, it would start again, but now there doesn't seem to be any gas in the carburator no matter how much I pump the pedal, and no one can get back in here to help me. What can I look at to try to fix it?

What you can do is spray a small amount of carburetor cleaner (or starting fluid, be very careful using this) and see if the engine will temporarily start. Remember only a small amount to keep it safe.

If it does start it appears you have lost fuel pressure. Start by replacing the fuel filter and thoroughly inspecting the fuel lines (cracks, breaks, leaks). If this does not reveal anything (or the fuel filter is not plugged) the pump itself may be bad. Let me know and we'll go from there.

I tried pouring a little gas directly into the carburator earlier today, and it did start and run for a few seconds. I tried to shovel enough ice and snow out from underneath to find where the fuel filter might be, but I only saw something that looked like a small black hose with ripples like on a vacuum cleaner hose. I think I might have cracked a rib a few days ago, so trying to chip through the ice is very difficult. Could you please tell me where to look for the fuel filter? It's too dark now, but I'll go back out again at sunrise, like I've been doing since the 20th of February. The gas is in the driver's side tank, which is a good thing, since the passenger side is up against a 6 foot wall of snow and ice. Thank you. I really appreciate your help.

You are dealing with some serious snow. It is alarming to hear you are stranded where no one can get to and may have a cracked rib. This injury can get worse without much warning, I think you should seek medical attention. Are emergency services available in your area?

As for the problem with with the truck, I think you need to check for fuel flow. Not as likely to be the fuel filter if you have been going through that much snow.

Copy and Paste the following links into your Address Bar, they'll take you to an online repair guide-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/11/e2/4[redacted] e246.jsp

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/11/3d/4a/[redacted] 3d4a.jsp

Believe me, If there were any way to get to a doctor, I would have done it days ago. I don't have a TTY and don't know who to email who could snowshoe in to find out why it just hurts more every day.

Thank you for the links. Now I can print the pictures and know what these things look like. With some idea of what to look for, I might have a fighting chance. Thank you.

Do you live in the United States?

How far are you away from a road?


What is a TTY? If this is a telephone, you should be able to make phone calls from your computer.

I'm in Colorado. A TTY is a keyboard telephone for the hearing impaired. It's less than a mile to the highway, but when I hiked out there day before yesterday, there was no traffic, and I'm not sure I'd trust somebody just passing through anyway. I've been in worse situations than this one, and I'm sure I'll eventually get the truck running again and get out of here. I'm only stranded because the real threat to my safety left, and his vehicle was the one parked on the highway.

Do you have any family you can contact?

If necessary, dialing 911 should give the dispatcher your location. If you can speak repeat your message three times or more after dialing. Being stranded for three weeks without transportation, with an unknown injury that is worsening, with a possible physical threat nearby, certainly constitutes an EMERGENCY! If the power goes out or you lose heat you will be in further trouble.

The conditions you are in make it way to dangerous to attempt repair on a vehicle.

I'll release this question to see if anyone else has suggestions on how to obtain emergency service in your situation.

Actually, the power goes out all the time here. The biggest inconvenience with that is the well pump stops and you have to melt snow if you want water. Heat means firewood here, and I do have a chainsaw. Granted, I've only been able to cut enough each day for that night, but I've been taking care of my own firewood for many years. No, there's no family really. I know I have living relatives, but the closest ones are all gone. Yes, I can speak, I just can't understand people unless I can see their mouths. I guess what constitutes an emergency for mountain people and for civilized people must be different. If I'm likely to live through it, it's not an emergency. Oh, and I think the chances are slim that my husband could be anywhere within 50 miles of here, and doubt that the two large dogs would let him near me anymore. Anyway, It's almost midnight and I want to get an early start in the morning. I'll let you know if I make any progress.

Please dial 911 if you do need help.

Hello, This is the All-Parts site Administrator.

Would you please do us all here a favor and call 911.

We are concerned for your safety.

You may not be able to fix the situation your self.

Mark

I hope that you are taking some of the previous advice re: the medical stuff and 911.
As for the truck, even if you did find the problem, do you have the tools to fix it?
Since the truck is carbureted, I suppose you could jury rig a gas can, and a hose directly to the fuel pump, which is on the passenger side of the engine, down towards the front.The fuel line is the one going to the frame. A few gallons would be enough to get you out. The fuel filter is not located under the truck, unless someone has added one. You might have crushed a fuel line, or otherwise damaged it...If you have a piece of fuel hose and a few clamps, it could be patched. It is not a high pressure line.If you have dual tanks, then the switching valve or wire to it might be broken, but that too could be bypassed. GM put the filter in the carb at the fuel inlet.Old Ford Model A's from the 30's used gravity feed, with the tank at the base of the windsheild. I have used this added tank system to get myself outta a jam when hunting, so I know it will work.
Now can we assume that if you get it running, can you actually get the truck out and back to civilization? Or just get it stuck again?
Please make a note to yourself and pick up a used snowmobile in the spring when they are cheap!
HEY Mark the Administrator, is there a way to track the senders IP address and call 911 yourself?
Good luck! I will be on again in AM
Bruce

Any chance we can have your name, address and phone number for Mark the Administrator to help?
Bruce

I guess my first rely didn't go through. Someone from the police department got in touch last night, so they know where I am and everything. I have basic tools, and am sure I can get the truck out if I can find the problem. Gas isn't leaking anywhere, so it must be blocked somehow. I'm going back out today with the information you gave me and hope it works. The world would be a better place if everyone were so kind and caring. Thank you.

What you might find is one of the metal gas lines that has been squished or flattened out, thus plugging the free flow of gas.
A '86 Chevy truck is fairly basic to work on, no fuel injection or computers to worry about. When you do manage to get out, you might also consider a copy of a HAYNES Shop Manual.(aprox $15) They are easy to read and understand and are written with the 'back yard' mechanic in mind.Let me know how its going. I am off to work, and will be back on here later this afternoon.
Bruce

Just a thought.Steep hill? Less than 1/4 tank of gas? That might be a problem in itself.Fuel pickup might be sucking air instead of gas....
Bruce

That was my first thought, so right away I syphoned the gas out of the passenger side tank and put it in the driver's side tank. The gauge says it's just under full. Too bad it wasn't that simple. I'm working on getting to the fuel filter now and came back to the house for a rubber mallet. People stronger than me are always the ones putting things together, so my rubber hammer is pretty helpful to start turning a wrench.

Well, the gas stops short of the fuel filter and all the way back to before the fuel pump. It's somewhere between the gas tank and the fuel pump. Tomorrow I'll look for some sort of kink or smashed place in the line. Don't worry if I don't answer you tonight. I didn't get much sleep last night so I'm going to bed early. Oh, and the rib feels better today.

Early is good, no need to over exert yourself!Glad you are feeling better!
A simple way to test a fuel pump is, disconnect fuel line at carb.Place a length of rubber hose over steel line, the other end into a container.Make sure it is secure, and out of the way of any moving parts. Crank engine over about 15 seconds.
See how much in container.
I will be back on Sun AM (west coast time)
and on and off here, several times during the day.
As long as your supplies etc do not run out, you should be ok?

Yes, I'm okay. Tired, frustrated, not making very many suncatchers to sell, but okay. It only hurts when I move or sneeze, and that's an enormous improvement.
I tried the fuel pump test early on today, but no gas came through. I'm not sure it's the pump, though. After I took it off, I didn't see any gas in the hoses. I'm thinking that the rocking might have loosened crud in the gas tank and I just have to find it.
I'll talk to you tomorrow. Good night.

Good night!
Perhaps I will order a small suncatcher in future!
[redacted]

Working backwards from the carburator, I followed the two lines leading back towards the gas tank. It's all on the passenger side right now, and I haven't been able to get far enough under the truck to see how it all leads to the driver's side tank where the gas is, but there is a cylinder about the size of the fuel pump with the hose connecting to one end and another hose at the other end going to what is clearly a fuel filter. This cylinder has two wires on it with one to the frame and the red one seems to go back up to the front. Is this, perhaps, another fuel pump? What might happen if I bypassed it for now?

I do not believe it is a fuel pump, but someone may have added on over the years.
It is probably the electrical switching device or valve that controls which fuel tank is being used.There will be a switch on the dash to operate the valve.The valves are a common thing to fail. Common also to bypass.Determine the hose from appropriate tank (full one!) and hook it to the hose going to the pump. If there are 2 hoses going back from the pump, along the frame rail, the one that is the correct one, is the larger of the two.
If you can blow back through the line, to see if it is unobstructed ...great. An air compressor is best, but then the old fashioned way is sufficient,,,,just do not drink the gas (gross & dangerous) Since the entire gas line will be empty, the pump on motor will not work initially, as it will pump air. Assist it with a small amount of gas in the carb.When you initially put gas in the carb, I am assuming you just splashed some in the top.A better way is to get a small squirt type bottle (shampoo-dish soap bottle type) On the top of the carb, under the aircleaner you should see a 1" long x 5/16" diameter pipe sticking straight up.That is the vent for the carb float bowl.If you carefully squirt gas in it, you can fill the float bowl.(about 4-5 oz.)Then when it starts, it will run for more than a few seconds, It should run for a few minutes, enough to fill the empty lines back to the tank.If it is not enough, fill the float bowl again and start again.
Medical condition better?
What is your name?
Bruce

I will be back on comp. in about two hours.

I'm sorry, I thought my name came up on your screen or something. My name is Ava Eisenhour.

I had no idea about the float bowl thing. That should be useful information when I get the fuel pump back on. I've tried several times, but I must not be doing it right. It wants to stick out at the top. I stuck my head down there as far as I could and looked with a flashlight, but there doesn't seem to be any movable parts in there. It's all solid except for a shiny metal rod at the bottom that seems to go to a squarish bolt on the outside.

It seems like I can blow through everything but the mystery cylinder, so I'll go take that off.

And, yes, I'm starting to feel better. For the first four days or so, it just seemed to be worse every day. Now it only hurts when I move. Much better!

I feel a little silly that it took me all day to figure out how to put the fuel pump back on, but I finally found the end of the push rod with a fingernail. There wasn't much gas left in the gas can, but it was enough to run it for a couple of minutes. Tomorrow, I guess I'll syphon some more and try again.

Ava
I was not aware that you removed the fuel pump off the engine,The rod is the fuel pump pushrod.It has slid down.The easiest way to hold it up, ( while installing the pump) is to first remove the small metal plate that the pump sat against.The two pump bolts held it on, as well as two smaller bolts below. They use a 7/16" wrench.The plate is square with a peak on top, kinda house shaped.
Once the plate is off, the shaft will slide out.It is about 6" long and 1/2 " diameter.If you coat it with heavy grease (or Vaseline?), it will usually stay up in place while the pump and plate are returned to the correct position.An alternate method:
Near the pump location, just around the front of the engine block,are two bolt holes, one above the other.One has a short bolt in it (9/16" head)If the bolt is removed, and a temporary longer bolt is put in, it will hold the pump pushrod up, as it intersects the, passage that the shaft is in.This longer bolt is put in, and pushes against the pump pushrod. The pump is then installed in the normal manner.Some times it is difficult to line up the bolts, as the curved arm on the pump is spring loaded.When the pump is installed, remember to exhange the (temporary) long bolt with the origional short one.
It would be great if you had a box of misc bolts and nuts! My preferred way to install the pump, is to replace the bolts with 3/8" studs,slide the pump over them, and put nuts on the studs, replacing the bolts.But I am guessing that studs are not in your toolbox?
You seem to be quite a resourseful woman, Ava, so I am sure that your perseverance will pay off!
As for the rib thing, all the docs seem to do is wrap a lot of bandages around you, to support it or something? You might try it.
I have to go out for a few hours, and will be back then.
If I had your email address, I could send some diagrams or photos, as I do not know how to send them on this system.
Bruce

Once I found the end of it, I just held it up with a little screwdriver and the pump went right back in. I took it out because I couldn't figure out how to get to the hose clamps down under all the other stuff. There's a propane conversion on it, so there is extra junk under the hood. My email is [redacted] . Right now, I'm looking for an easy way to syphon gas. It was a major production the last time. Yes, I suppose I am resourceful. If it can be done, I can do it. If it can't be done, it might take me a little longer. It's one of the many reasons I don't like civilization. "Can't" seems to be a very popular word down there. I found a couple of old ace bandages and they help somewhat. I'll heal up from this one just like everything else.
-Ava

Ava
The propane stuff does complicate things somewhat.Propane vehicles very difficult to start in winter so lets stick with gas, ok?
There will be a gas shutoff valve in the gas line.It is metal, about the size of a D cell flaslight battery.The ones that I have worked on were plumbed into the steel fuel line, between the fuel pump and the carb.One fitting in another out.Two wires. one ground - and the + goes to a switch on dash.In Colorado, they might put them elsewhere.I siphon the old fashioned way with a length of garden hose and good timing.(sometimes bad timing...yuk!)
Civilization is usually overstated and definatly not civilized! I live in a small town called Aldergrove up here in BC Canada, and work in the next town over.When I visit the city, I feel like a tourist.
My dream is to buy an old farmhouse and barn.Fix the house to live in and fix the barn to play with cars in.I advise people on their racing cars for a living,been a mechanic too long, and play with cars as a hobby.This area has the highest per capita horse population, so I should have a few of them too?
Your attitude about getting things done, mirrors mine.
I will send a note to the ruby red glass address, with the word 'mechanic' attached, so you know who it is.
Bruce

Okay. I don't remember seeing anything like that under the hood, so it must be somewhere else. Too bad you can't just take the gas out the same place it goes in. I guess that's some sort of anti-theft set up for "civilized" places where people actually steal gasoline. There isn't any gas in that larger filter I found towards the back of the truck, so I may have to get further underneath and look for an obstruction between there and the gas tank. The weather has been very warm, so it will be easier, but warm weather in March is always followed by at least 5 feet of snow, so it would be a good idea to get this thing moved before that happens.

I guess somebody was mistaken years ago about the anti-gas theft device in the gas tank. I just needed a stiffer hose. What I just can't figure out is why that larger fuel filter towards the back of the truck is dry. The truck was running on propane before all of this, but it ran out after the first two days. I flipped the switches under the dash and ran on gasoline after that. If gas was going through there, why isn't there any gas in that filter? I'll try to figure that one out while the battery charges again. I ran it out filling up the float bowl and running the engine over and over hoping gas would somehow get there.

Ava, I was wondering about the battery thing, I am glad that you have a battery charger! And glad that you have been able to remove gas from the tank.And the weather is better. All good, things are looking up!
If the mystery filter is clamped on the normal way with clamps and you can find a short piece of 3/8" tubing, then it could be replaced or bypassed. If you have yet to remove it, be careful, you might get a gas suprise! Having a 3/8 bolt or something handy to stuff in hose might be a good idea.
If nothing comes out of that hose, you might try blowing in it.That might dislodge somthing plugging the inlet in the tank.If you do not have a piece of tubing, or a spare filter, you might try 'reaming the old filter out with a screwdriver, essentially rendering it a 'non filter'
Which part of Colorado do you live in?
Bruce

I guess you would call this the southwestern part. I'm at almost 10,000 feet here, so my summer visitors tend to get sick and dizzy. I feel like I'm drowning when I have to go down to 5000 feet where the Wal-Mart is.

I thought about taking that filter off and trying to blow through that part of the hose, but it's right up against the frame with just a tiny bit of hose behind it, going over the top of the frame and eventually to the gas tank. I can't get my head up in there, and the air compressor I have is very weak, besides which, I don't have enough extention cords to reach the top of the driveway. I'll study that situation in the morning. It might be possible to take the filter off and pull the hose over to the other side where there's more room. It would be great if I could find an obstruction and the fuel pump turned out to be okay.

Ava
Well if you are in the San Juan Mountains, the weather looks ok for awhile.I live on the coast now, which is pretty much sea level, in a part of Canada that is the equivelent to California coast.I do get up into the mountains here, for one reason or another. I am assuming that you are asleep now, and reading this in AM.
If you remove that filter (that age truck, the rubber hose probably hard with age) you could take it to the compressor and blow it out.Are there any old cars/trucks/engines around that you could borrow a piece of hose from?
I have a few trucks like that that I store on a friends farm.I plan on building one from three.I will stop by, on the way home from work, and have a look to exactly see what you are up against.
I remember once living in the praries, and in -20 weather, and lots of snow, I had to dig a tunnel under my car to change the starter so I could get to work the next morning!
Did you get my 'regular' email?
I hope that your ribs are feeling better.And its a good thing that I live 3000 miles away, or I'd want to punt a certain 'man' into the nearest creek!
Bruce

Check your Spam filter. I got your email and sent a reply when I got it, so it might be in your "junk" or "suspect" folder.

I do have the remnants of a Chevy Luv out there somewhere, and I had planned to look at what's left of it in the morning. Years ago, I encountered a 4wd Luv that had been rolled, but was in good shape otherwise, and another with a good exterior but a blown engine, each for $500. The resulting vehicle is long gone, but the carcass of the other one is still here.

I'm not worried about my ex. He'll create plenty of true misery for himself. My life is better now. There's a big financial mess to clean up, but I'll find a way to do that just like I do everything else.

I am a car guy not a computer guy. I would not know a spam filter, if it fell on my head, but will attempt tomorrow.
The Chevy should have a hose some steel lines...clamps ... or other useful bits...good.
Bruce

I guess I know what I've had to learn when I couldn't pay someone to do it for me, which is pretty much all the time. That, and whatever the only job around was at the time. I was an accountant before I bought this place, then a forklift operator, and now stained glass.

I'll try resending the email.

Good night.

Ava
Resending the email will not work, at least to my hotmail address, as I have apparently blocked the earhlink.net domain.About a year ago I had a lot of junk emails from an earthlink website, and somehow blocked it.My other email address is [redacted] or [redacted]
I never really thought about not affording to pay someone else to do something, rather than I would like to learn how to do everything myself.I recently traded a truck rear axle for an industrial sewing machine, as I am planning to try my hand at upholstery.I have built cars and trucks from the ground up including engine trans and paint, so upholstery might be a next step.I would also like to build a house in the same manner, perhaps a log cabin.
Time to finish my coffee and get off to work.
I hope you have a productive day.First day of spring here.
Bruce

Progress! I don't know how much yet, but I came back to the house to wash my face and rinse my mouth because I've found gasoline. The mystery filter is quite naturally in the most awkward and inconvenient place possible, with the screw on the hose clamp pointing into a corner, but I got it off. I can blow through it, so that's not the problem and I'll put it back on for the visual confirmation of gas flow later. When I blew through the hose behind it, I tasted gas fumes. Of course, I tried the alternative. It's only a trickle at this point, but it's gas. I'll keep you posted.
Ava

Excellent! I sent a few photos of a chevy truck frame that might be useful.The added filter is a mystery. Usually when I add a filter, I put it in an accesable place, so I can check it and replace it easy.
I am near my comp. for awhile as I am cookin dinner.I might go out a bit, to pick up a few houseplants, but will be back on again.
Gasoline....yummy! The few times I managed to taste gas, I could eat a bowl of the hottest chili or something else, and later if I burp....yup...tastes like gas...yummy!
blah....

Thanks Bruce. With dial-up, I can't get that many pictures all at once, but I was able to download and save the first four pictures from webmail before they got deleted or sent back to you, or whatever happens when the server decides it can't be delivered. If you could try to send the last two again, along with the message that tells me what they are, that would be great. This is all stuff I can't see from under the truck in the snow. I think the small line is to return vapor from the fuel pump and prevent vapor lock. Or, something like that.

No success today, but gas in the line is progress. I was unsuccessful in my attempts to syphon more gas today, but I'll try a longer hose tomorrow. Since it wouldn't keep running any longer than before, I thought maybe filling up the hose with gas from the carburetor end might give the fuel pump something to work on besides air.

I have to stay up for a while and make suncatchers. The orders should be finished, boxed up, and in the truck ready to ship when I do get back on the road.

I sent more photos via your ruby red 'mail'
Bruce