Chev Suburban

1999 Chev Suburban Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

'99 1/2 ton, 5.7 Ltr, auto trans, LS w/ trailering pkg. Brake - Transmission Shift Interlock has become difficult to shift out of park. Press brake pedal and hear clicks like a selenoid and have to work shift lever several times to get beyond Park position. Very faint click in steering column is heard and then will shift out of Park. Thanks.

The shift interlock release solenoid will likely need replacing, it sounds like it has become weak.

Where is the selonoid located?

1999 Chev Suburban Electrical / Lighting Systems   

first it was the intior lights have stopped. they stiil do,nt work now with 150k the elec. door locks work half the time gregg

You are experiencing symptoms that all relate to a bad body control module
if you were to scan the computer for stored codes it will most likely point that out to you and anything else going on with your car stemming from tha BCM
I hope this helps

Thanks Its been to the garage two or three times in the past and a chev.garage did'nt know waht was wrong.
hopeit works.
P.S. where would this module be located at
thanks gregg

Your body control funtions are combinedwith the ECM under the hood near the fender on the drivers side
I would advise you to do a computer scan before the replacement as it is a very expensive part Try to retreive error codes
before going forward

1999 Chev Suburban Drive Train / Driveline   

I reported some odd vibration to my mechanics more than a year ago,and after test driving it, they said they couldn't find anything wrong. After driving a vehicle for roughly 130,000 miles, you know when something's different with your car. And, low and behold, here it goes! I have a 1999 Chevy Suburban 1500 4WD. I've now passed the 185,000 mark with my first ever Service Engine Soon light coming on. Got that done. I know, I know, I shouldn't have waited till the idiot light told me to do it. But, it does seem a tribute to Chevy that it went that long. However, now I'm experiencing a fairly loud clinking noise when I change from forward to reverse and back again. Also, there appears to be what can only be described as torque converter shudder. The vehicle vibrates at higher speeds and when you step on the gas. It's also clunking a little when you you step on the gas, especially from a full stop. I'm taking it very easy now. No fast starts out of the gate for me. I've been reading on-line that Lube Gard can eliminate this problem. Should I even bother trying this or go straight for a new torque converter? My mechanics are robbing bastards and I can't find anyone better. Oh, I tried to price converters on line and the only one I found is a B&M Holeshot 2000 series - 1900 - 2100 RPM, 30 spline, Retains Lock-Up Feature. It says it's for a C1500 Suburban, 2WD, 1/2 ton. My Burb is 4WD. Will this fit mine? Thanks for any help you offer.

Hello, Has anyone checked the universal joints and the transfer case/transmission mounts for condition?

The clunk that occurs at take off from a full stop may be the driveshaft (rear) needs lube on the splines that slide onto the transmission output shaft.

I have no experience with the Lube Gard product you referred to.

When the vehicle is at hiway speed and the vibration is present will you see what happens if you depress the footbrake just enough to turn on the brake lights? Maintain the throttle position to maintain speed....just when the brake lights come on the torque converter clutch should disengage. Does it? Does the vibration stop?

If a torque converter listing does not indicate it will work with the 4WD model don't buy it until you talk to tech support at the manufacturer for clarification.

Roger

No, I haven't had the universal joints and the transfer case/transmission mounts checked. I know the universal joints were replaced maybe 40 - 50,000 miles back or so.

I've already experienced the clutch disengagement you described by depressing the footbrake a little. The vibration does stop. But, starts right back up when you give it a little gas.

As far as buying a torque converter on-line, I talked to a salesman directly via the website's toll free telephone #. Of course, he said the converter is good for 2WD or 4WD. I didn't really trust him, that's exactly why I asked. Thanks. I just don't want my shop to try and charge me $600 for a $300 part.

I think I'm going to have to take this to a new mechanic and have them look it over. If it's the driveshaft, I don't want to mess around. I make long hauls with heavy equipment in this vehicle for a band that has to be at its gigs on time. I need it to work properly.

Thanks again for the input.

When you experienced the clutch disengagement and the vibration stopped, were you still holding the footbrake slightly depressed while increasing the throttle and caused the vibration to come back?

You should be all right with the torque converter the sales person said will work with either 2WD or 4WD. I believe this because you called the manufacturer sales rep and not some chain store trainee.

Perhaps your local chamber of commerce can recommend a member business for your needs.

Roger

In answer to your question - "When you experienced the clutch disengagement and the vibration stopped, were you still holding the footbrake slightly depressed while increasing the throttle and caused the vibration to come back?"

No. I don't think I've ever used two feet at once to drive an automatic. I just hit the footbrake ever so slightly. I coasted along for a little without stepping on either the footbrake or gas. The vibration stopped. Then when I hit the gas again, the vibration started up.

The test using two feet as I described will keep the clutch disengaged and allow the driver to determine if there is a misfire present at the same time. A misfire at hiway speed will feel like a vibration.

Roger

Gotcha. Actually, last night I stopped by and talked to my mechanic. His take on it was that there is very little chance the torque converter is the problem. He said in 21 years he has only had to change out 3. He said they just don't really go bad that often. He's leaning towards the driveshaft or, even more likely, the U-joints - AGAIN.

I put the LubeGard in last night when I got home. I think my car likes it a lot. The shudder is still there, but 95% of the clinks and clangs and ticks and other weird and embarassing noises disappeared almost instantly. Shifts are much smoother and she feels like she's just running better overall. I'm definitely not a mechanic, but I would recommend this stuff to anyone experiencing drive train noises and other problems. It's like a miracle drug. My mechanics couldn't fix all of the noises for the past two years and just one bottle of this in with the trani fluid and voila!

Thank God for the internet.

That's an interesting report on the Lube Gard product. I'm going to look it up.

Have the mechanic explain why he believes the driveshaft or the u-joints would be the source/cause of a vibration that vanishes with lightly applying the brake to disengage the torque converter clutch?

One will hesitate to point the blame at a part rarely replaced (torque converter) but there are exceptions. This may be one such occassion where though hard to believe the fourth converter bad has come along in this man's career.

Be careful where your money goes.

Roger

You best believe I will get a full explanation of everything. You've been so helpful. I can't thank you enough.

To accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me please close the question or click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

I thank you,

Roger

1998 Chev Suburban Drive Train / Driveline   

4wd 350ci 168,000 mi I have a continuous squeal when the engine warms up that goes away on acceleration above 1500rpm but alwys returns. Its there in park or in drive.It's very loud. I've changed belt, alternator, p/s pump, water pump, and distributor. Ran it for a few seconds with belt off and still squealed so I know its not AC. Wish I would have done that before changing all those other parts... Any suggestions. thanks
Dennis

Check the header gaskets, most likely the donut gasket that goes between the header and the catalytic converter.
Listen to it with a stethescope if you have to to pinpoint the problem
I hope this helps

1998 Chev Suburban Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

I have a 1998 chevy suburban diesel 1500 4x4. 233k miles. i recently replaced the rear drums, and upon inspection found a bad shock on the front, replaced shocks, rotated tires to rear (tire w/ bad shock was cupped) ran it around town all ok.. take it on highway 62 mph very bad vibration.. thought it was tires. replaced tires (4) re-balanced all.. still have same problem.. any suggestions

Hi, When do you feel the vibration? Above 50 mph? Does the steering wheel vibrate?

Are any wheels bent from hitting potholes? Have you thought about u-joints and transmission mounts? Could the driveshafts be bent from an impact?

Roger

No the steering doesnt vibrate. replaced transmission mounts and engine mounts 5 months ago. all wheels have been checked to see if they were bent vibration concentrated in driver rear .. pulled shock it was ok.. another thing i tried took it up to 70mph and put it in nuetral.. still have vibration with engine not under load

If the run-out of the driveshaft is acceptable, the mounts are ok, tires, wheels, and shocks all good...

How long since the differential lube was changed? A bearing on the differential carrier may be failing. Consider opening the cover and look at the lube for metal debris. There should be a magnet on the inside of the cover to trap metal also.

Roger

change the diff fluid to synthetic a yr ago. i check it every time i change the oil. the bearing was what i was thinking.. but i would have it all the time.. only have it at 62 mph and above and not at any slower speed

If a bearing is noisey it can be so at most speeds. I have driven GM vehicles that have no noise but did have vibration. The vibration could be "driven through" by just driving faster. Above and below a speed range the vibration was not present.

We overhauled the differential and the replacement of the carrier and side bearings cured the problem.

Does a shop in your area have a dyno you can get a high speed test on??

Roger

will check.. thanx Tom

Found problem.. the brake drums were not balanced.. installed new brake drums took it past 80mph....nooo vibration

WOW! That is a rare one for the industry.

To receive a refund please write to All-Parts.com, Administrator, All-Parts.com and tell him I did not answer your question before you found the problem and fixed it.

Thank you for the opportunity to serve you,

Roger

1998 Chev Suburban Ignition System   

5.7 v8 When vehicle is warmed up, engine suddenly dies as if ignition has been turned off. I must turn off the key then crank to restart. will not fire if cranking without first sutting off key. Usually restarts immediately sometimes I have to wait up to 30 seconds. Happens cruising at highway speeds when it is over 80 degrees and after operating for 3 - 5 hours.

Hello, No check engine light? Could be a Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) or the fuel pump.

The cycling of the key would call for the fuel pump to restart to pressure up the fuel rail.....attempting to restart without cycling the key would not.

I'd be tempted to monitor fuel pressure while driving to see what the pressure is when the engine stumbles or dies.

Roger

1997 Chev Suburban Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving No pattern

windshield wippers work some times and some times not occasionally you can get out and move them and they will continue to work other times it seems to buzz down by the steering column and they won't do any thing. a few days later they will work. switch or maybe some kind of controler under the dash or the motor. what do you know? would like to buy only the right part thanks bill

your problem is common the wiper motors bearing are shot it would be best just to get another wiper motor
hope this helps

1997 Chev Suburban Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens sometimes No pattern

tachometer, spedometeter; both stopped working. transmision indicator does not work transmision starts in high gear.

Sounds like a power failure to these systems. Have you checked all fuses and fusible links?

Please advise your vehicle's engine, transmission and two or four wheel drive info. I'll access a data base tomorrow for ideas once I know these facts.

Roger

it has a over drive automatic transmision, 4 wheel drive, 5.7 liter engine, this problem is speratic and i have checked only one fusible link at battery and replaced battery cable and power supply cable to relay-fuse panel in engine compartment.
thanks,
Marty!

Are you driving when the condition happens or does it usually happen at engine start up? What have you noticed will get these systems working again?

Have you checked for diagnostic codes present?

Please advise,

Roger

A Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) #01-07-30-002B issued by GM may, 2001 addresses the condition you have described.

Upon investigation, one or all of the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0740,P0753,P0758,P0785,P1860 may be set.

If you do NOT have any aftermarket electronic device such as a remote starter or alarm system installed:

1. With the key in the run position, test for voltage at Fuse "Trans 20" in the fuse box.
2. If battery voltage is present at the fuse, inspect circuit 1020 between the fuse and the transmission for possible opens.
3. If battery voltage is not present at the fuse, replace the ignition switch with GM Part number [redacted] .

If you have aftermarket equipment installed then check it's installation for the trouble source.

Do you have a fax number? I will send you the bulletin for your review.

Roger

Thank You So much Roger for your time!! if you could please sent me that bulletin our fax number is [redacted] ! thanks again!!
Marty!

I'm glad to offer an answer to this really odd failure. To gain the best understanding I had to read the bulletin several times. You'll be surprised at how many models are included in this publication.

Look it over and let me know what else I may do for you.

Thanks,

Roger

Your Fax is on it's way 0950 hrs CDT 9-23-05

Roger

Have you received the fax I sent? Does it answer your question?

Please advise your thoughts,

Roger

I'm checking in for an update. Any News here?

Roger

Hello, May I have the courtesy of an update on the status of this question please?

Thanks,

Roger

1997 Chev Suburban Ignition System Won't Start  Always

The ignition module has went out 2 times in the past 3 months. The first replacement module lasted about 1 week. The second module lasted almost a month. I tried putting in a new module and it still won't start. The engine just turns over with now firing. We tested a spark plug to see if there was spark... and there was. Could it be some other part now after all the modules I replaced? Fuel Pump? Anything else? The car was running fine before this latest episode. I felt the module and it was very hot. I had it parked for about 10 minutes and when I came back, nothing.. it wouldn't start. Any suggestions, besides bringing it to a shop?
Thanks

I am waiting to go get a ride back out to my car.. could a jump help? It seems like it is turing over pretty fast, but I have been cranking on it hard before I replaced the module this time. I didn't have jumper cables when I replaced the module. Should I be able to hear a fuel pump? It is a little noisy where the car it.. so I would have to stick my ear somewhere.

First off the fuel pump is located in the fuel tank. When you turn the ignition to the on position there should a humming sound coming from this area. As far as the ignition moduels you say you have replaced, before you go any further at trowing parts at the vehicle, I would you have the vehicle diagnosticly scanned to pinpoint the problem. Check with some of your local parts houses. I have heard some offer this service for free or at a nominal charge.(I know one is even offering free towing)If a code or codes are retrieved from the scan, then "all" tests suggested in the flow chart need to be preformed to insure a proper repair.
Good Luck,
Paul

First, thanks for the speedy reply. Since today is Sunday.. nothing is open. Is there anything I can try today to get it running? Starting fluid? Based on your expertise, what would you be leaning towards? I am trying to get a plan together before I head over to the car in a few hours.
Thanks

Again, I couldn't tell you from this side of the screen if starting fulid would help your concerns. In fact, if the problem lies elsewhere, it could actualy damage the motor. If there is an errant read from the ECM, and the combustion chabers are full of either and a spark comes across, serious damage may occur to sensors or engine. You need to have the vehicle scanned to get to the bottom of your problem.
Good Luck,
Paul

1997 Chev Suburban Fuel System   

It was driving fine Then leaving a stop sign It died on me. I got it started back up but it does not go over 50 mah. it has power but does not go?

Is the transmission slipping? I ask this because you said it has power, assuming you mean the engine has good power?

Will the engine rev up to high rpms while in park or neutral?

IT seems to have high RPM

Does it still have the high RPM's when it will not go any faster? If it does the transmission is slipping.

If the engine does not rev high, you may have inadequate fuel pressure. When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?

Also, you may have a restricted exhaust (plugged catalytic converter). This usually shows up more when the engine is warm, you will experience severe power loss (possibly until the engine won't run until it is shut off for a while).

Any check engine light ON while the engine is running?

No engine light come on. I changed the fuel filter first thing when I was having the problem

Okay, is the engine reving high at the same time the problem is present?

no

Check fuel pressure with a gauge.

Also check for a restricted exhaust.

1997 Chev Suburban All Part Groups   

1997 suburban 5.7L (csfi) engine will not start. Engine lock up after turning it over 8 to 10 times.Removed spark plugs and it turns over fine alot of fuel come out of 7 and 8 cyclinder.Check spark and it is good.

Replace the injectors, they are sticking.

all of them what about the press regulator

If it was regulater, the fuel spray would be an issue on all cylinders, not just 2

the regulator seldom is a problem with GM's

Thanks

Changed out the fuel injectors still have the same problem.Is their a check i can do on the computer?I cant find a wiring diagram to check the wiring on the injectors help.

Have you scanned the computer for stored codes?
I am sure that there will be something detected by the code scanner
this would be the least expensive start at diagnosing your problem

No i didnt scan the computer.If its not the computer what else effects the fuel injectors.

You understand that by scanning the computer you will be able to retrieve
codes that can determine what problems you are having with the entire drive train
The problem does not nessecarily have to be your fuel injectors

Yes i do understand how the ecm works and how to scan the computer.I dont have a scanner and the car is not running to take it somewhere and have it scanned. car mechanics i talk to tell me its either the injector,ecm or wiring.Ill check the price on a scanner but my understanding of the system points to a bad ecm.I do know a little bit about what im doing i`ve been a aircraft mechanic for 20 years.Thank for the input when i get it fixed ill post what fixed it.

You can rent a scanner for a couple of bucks
at least if you try to scan it and you cannot get a dianostic then you know that the ecm is bad or you can rule this outas a possible problem
you did change the injectors so you can assume the new ones are more than likely working
Test for the voltage at the injectors to see if you are getting power to them and you may want to check each of them
As for the wiring that can still be troube shot back to the ECM

I scanned the ecm and didnt get any codes.Put a new ecm in and the same thing is still happening.Ill looking for a wiring diagram to check voltage and wiring back to the ecm.Find is problem to be very puzzling and will take any input i can get.

Checked voltage and grounds at each injector checked good.(11.13v)With injector connector disconnected i turn the engine over and still have all the fuel dumping into the same 2 cylinders.Could this be a fuel press.reg. if so why only 2 cylinders.

help

Check to see if the negative lead to the fuel injector is permanently grounded, this will cause the injector to run continoulsly when power is on. One end of meter/test light to battery positive and the other to the injector connector.

Alternatively unplug the two injectors (cylinders purged of fuel) and see if the engine will start.

What do you find?

Use the following link to view generic wiring diagrams. Copy and Paste into your Address Bar-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/08/79/5[redacted] 7951.jsp

You were typing at the same time I was.

Does the fuel pressure regulator have a vacuum hose on it? Does the vacuum come from the intake runners near the offending cylinders? This could be the path for fuel. Pull the vacuum hose off, is it wet with fuel?

Use the following link to view what I assume your fuel pressure regulator to look like-

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=484&ptset=A&searchfor=Fuel+Pressure+Regulator

Ignore the "Holley" brand, I don't know if it is a performance part or... Click on images to enlarge.

BTW- Most Autozones will loan you a code scanneer (for a fully refundable deposit).

That is what the regulator looks like,no vacuum hose on regulator.Checked negative leads on injectors with a test light checked good (no injectors permanently grounded).I cannt unplug the 2 injectors and try to start engine because it is a CSFI stsyem all injector in one lacation.

Use a fuel pressure gauge to see if the regulator is allowing the pressure to go to high. If it is not it looks like you'll need another unit. Consider used as these are not cheap. There is also gmpartsdirect.com , ebay, and lindertech.com

Fuel press is about 51 psi and the reg was leak out of the houseing .Changed the fuel pressure regulator and the car runs great.The only question i have is the fuel pump supposed to run all the time?I turn the key to on the pump runs.I start the car and the fuel pump stays on.I throught it was supposed to shut off when the car is running.Changed the fuel pump relay and it still runs when the car is running.

On newer vehicles the fuel pump will only run when it needs to (it cyles on and off) but yours will run continously as long as the engine is running. Any excess fuel pressure is returned to the tank.

1997 Chev Suburban Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Blows lighting fuse # 9 (20 amp)sometimes as soon as the lighting switch is turned to even the first position, sometimes after a delay of minutes or hours. We've tried chasing all the known common reasons. No luck yet. Thanks

Although those years are prone to headlight switch failure, You sre right to check common reasons.Additional things to check are trailer wiring and if the headlight bulbs have been changed to higher wattage ones.They are ok, but should use a relay, to lessen load on the switch.

Good thought on the light wattage and need for a relay.I've never seen one without relay's for horns
and lighting...but...my other suburban is an 89 and has relays of course. If I am reading between the lines correctly...you are saying the light switch is
handling ALL the lighting load current through some of the switch contacts without benefit of a relay?
If that is the case it is no wonder the switches have a short life span.Are the OEM replacements upgraded versions? Ben

As far as I know the replacement switches are not upgraded, so a relay will be a good idea.Cheap and easy to wire too!

1996 Chev Suburban Electrical / Lighting Systems Stalling Happens sometimes No pattern

Has 132,000 miles on it. Recently started exhibiting random intermittent total electrical failure. Door locks/ignition/starter/interior/headlights are all inop - noise like a clicking relay coming from under dash after attempting to start, continues after ignition turned off and key removed. Has happened when first trying to start in the morning, also has caused repeated stall-outs when pulling into a parking lot after a problem-free 1 hr drive. Problem disappears as suddenly as it appeared - often in minutes. Truck is our 3rd vehicle and often goes for a week or more without being driven.

Hello, Your battery terminal connections may be corroded or loose. Even if they look good I'd disconnect them and clean them. The battery may be weak or have a dead cell.

Many national parts chain stores will load test your battery for free, to make sure it is OK. They even check your alternator for free. Not driven very often you might consider putting a trickle charger on this truck to keep it road ready as needed.

Roger

1996 Chev Suburban Engine  When starting No pattern

I bought this vehicle last week. It is difficult to start. You have to depress the accelerator pedal and then it starts. There are no codes showing up.

Lets start with the easy potential causes. Replace the fuel filter and run a can of STP or similar fuel treatment. Also it is a great idea to always do a full tune up on a newly purchased car or truck. Let me know if this helps. We can go from there.

I have replaced the spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and have run a can of Red Line fuel injector cleaner through it. I have not changed the fuel filter yet. Will do that tomorrow.

I changed the fuel filter and the starting problem still persists.

Derek

Check the idle speed motor. Cleaning the pintle on the motor and the passageway might do the trick.

Thanks for your reply,
I do not know the Vortec 5.7 L. Where can I locate the idle speed motor?

Thanks
Derek

Here is a link to a free online repair guide offered by autozone. Highlight, edit, copy, and paste the link into your address bar.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/08/6e/3[redacted] 6e39.jsp

Note- click diagrams at the above site to open in a new window.

If this don't work you will need to check fuel pressure. Let me know.

Hi;
Sounds like the TPS ( throttle position sensor is not telling the computer theactual position of the throttle. Unless youhave a good scanner the position will not be known. Your best bet is to have a shop run a diagnostic test with a scanner. Good Luck Les

Sorry guys,

I could not wait for an answer. A search of the internet yielded a solution. I replaced the CIS and fuel pressure regulator (used). The truck starts and runs perfectly. I guess the fuel pressure regulator has been notorious for GM.

Derek

They have been problematic, you were lucky to find a unit in good working condition. Hopefully it lasts.

Did you price new units? There is an aftermarket supplier for the regulator, in the event you have been told otherwise. Did you get a good price on the used unit?

BTW, if you would of got back to me you would of found the problem quickly once you obtained a fuel pressure gauge. If you had to buy new part$ you'd surely understand the importance of proper diagnosis."

1996 Chev Suburban Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

2 days ago when driving the inside front fan decided that to turn off you had to put it on high, so basically it reversed itself. Then yesterday decided not to turn off at all, and is still on with key in the ignition.

Check to see if there is a relay for the fan. The relay may be stuck on.

If not try disconnecting the negative battery cable for fifteen minutes. Reconnect and see if resetting returns normal function.

This assumes the fan is the only thing staying powered up.

No relay switch so disconnected negative battery cable for 15 mins and that did not reset it. What to do next?

If there is not a relay it must be an electronic system controlled by a module. A gm capable scanner is needed to communicate with the module to identify the problem.

1996 Chev Suburban Ignition System   

cranks but will not start? has fuel pressure and fire but will not start. spray in starting fluid and it will fire up but not stay running?

Hello,

Good start. The next thing to check is for Key On positive voltage to the fuel injectors (use a known good ground for negative lead of voltmeter). Do you have Key On pos. voltage to the fuel injectors?

what kind of reading should i exspect!

Hello,

DC or battery voltage. Let me know the results. Set you multimeter to (or closest to) 20 volts DC. Higher is okay but don't go too low.

please list unexceptable readings and I can go from there. Thanks this has been great.

The computer provides the ground via an On/Off pulse (injector pulse).

Undesirable is zero or very low voltage indicating the Key On positive is missing or inadequate. If positive voltage is present you'll need to check for trouble codes. Most Autozone stores will loan you an OBD2 code reader for a refundable deposit (call ahead).

What you are trying to determine at his point is whether you are missing battery positive to the fuel injectors OR the computer supplied ground. Let me know which is missing.

1994 Chev Suburban Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving No pattern

every once in awhile, when you start off, usually when cold, It will satrt off in 2nd gear, and stay there. It will not shift into any other gear. When you get up to 40-50, and you let off, its like its in neutral untill you accellerate and the engine RPM catches up. This has happened several times in the past few months. You let it sit for 5-10 min, it then works like normal!!

2 questions for you. Have you checked the fluid level with the truck warm and on level ground? And when was the last time you had the tranny filter changed? If it has been a while (more than a year) I would change the tranny filter and go from there. Let me know and we can go from there. AL

...Yes fluids are at the proper level, And the transmission and Transfer cases were changed and refilled about 6 months ago. The shop that did it said there were no excess filings in the filter. When you first start out, reverse goes right into gear, no hesitation, as does foward.

I dont have your answer. It makes sense that your tranny has great reverse.. but why does it drop into second (limp home mode) then back to normal.. sounds like a possible valve block problem but I do not have a good answer. Please release the question and maybe someone else can help you. Sorry for the inconvience. AL

1994 Chev Suburban Electrical / Lighting Systems Overheating Happens always When warm 

(fuse) breaker: I believe this fuse operates the powerseat,powerdoors,powersmirrors.Its breaks and get hot and sparks when I plug it in the fuse box. What do you think the problem is and how can I find it or trouble shoot to repair.

Shorts of this nature can be tough to find. To find the problem you'll need to disconnect components on the circuit and try again. Start with the easiest to access. I'd start with the power seats. Pay close attention to the wiring in this area as things tend to find their way under the seat and cause problems.

Do you have a repair manual for you vehicle? There are free manuals online. These are the equivalent of a Haynes or Chiltons manual, not the best, but free. Let me know if you need the link for your auto [Please give engine size].

5.7 350 V8 how about the link to help me

Copy & Paste this link into your Address bar. Please be aware the repair guide covers several years & models. There is better information available but you have to pay for it.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/08/77/3[redacted] 7731.jsp

Note- Click on diagrams to enlarge.

1994 Chev Suburban Engine Hesitating Happens always Always

I have a 454 engine that has a miss. The rpm gauge jumps up and down. I have replaced spark plugs, spark plug wires, fuel pump, fuel filter, distributor cap & rotor, did compression check, checked egr & pcv valve. The engine light does not come on. The engine just has a miss during idle and at cruising speed. It seems like it is an electrical problem but I don't know where to go from here?

What was the compression, I assume good and uniform.

Is this a constant miss? The first thing to check is for spark at all cylinders, preferably using a spark tester. The next thing to check is the fuel injectors. Disconnect the injector electrical connector one by one noting which cylinder(s) are unaffected. This will indicate which injectors are at fault. Remember, we need good spark and compression before we can isolate the fuel injector. Also play close attention to the wiring and injector connector- any problem here will obviously cause a dead cylinder.

1994 Chev Suburban Engine   

1994 Chevy 1500 Suburban 2WD--I have an off idle stumble i.e. when I barely press on the gas it stumbles horribly and almost dies. When I press a little further it smooths out and runs fine. I disconnected the EGR and plugged the vacuum line and it didn't stumble anymore but it did have a bad knock (pinging) at all throttle settings. The are no codes being shown.

Let me know if the check engine light is on at anytime while the engine is running.

Have you tested the throttle positon sensor (TPS). Do you need instructions? If you do use the following link to access an online repair guide. Copy and Paste into your Address Bar-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

It sounds like you might me on the lean side of fuel mixture. Unhooking the EGR valve will cause the combustion temps to be higher, but severe pinging lead me to believe the fuel mixture is lean.

Hi, I replaced the TPS about 6 months ago after the transmission started shifting very hard (I had an engine light and a TPS code). The stumbling started several weeks after I replaced it. I will test it , though, just in case it has a bad spot in it. I've never gotten a light or a code with the stumbling. If the TPS is okay what would your second guess be?

I would want to test the fuel pressure and MAP sensor (assuming your engine has a map sensor and not a mass airflow sensor).

YOu have the right idea, looking for a bad spot in the TPS.

1993 Chev Suburban Heating / Cooling System Malfunction When driving Always

My heater blows only cold air no matter were I set the controls, The A/C runs and the blower comes own, But all I get is cold air. I have checked for blown fuses.

"It could be the hvac control module or the temperature valve motor if you have the electrically controlled system.

If you have the traditional system look at the blend air door to see if it moves freely.

This information is assuming this happened all at once, instead of the heat slowly getting cooler over time."

1993 Chev Suburban Ignition System Won't Start When stopped When cold

The key will turn and all dash board lights come on (radio and lights work). However, there is no sound (clicking) from the starter. Battery is good and assume alternator is good. could the wiring to the starter or the starter itself be bad?

yes your starter could be bad. Start out by checkin the conections on the starter, sometimes they get loose and dont make good contact, if there both tight take a test light and check for power on the small wire that connects to the starter, you will have to have someone turn the key while you do this because that is the wire that gives the selonoid power it should have power when you turn the key to start. if it does not get any power than the problem is in your ignition system or possibly a burnt fuse. if it is getting power but still no cranking try tapping the starter a few times with a hammer, sometimes they get caught up. and if that doesnt solve your problem purchase a new starter.

1993 Chev Suburban Engine Stalling When idling No pattern

idle will run up and down. i replaced the spark plugs and that did not help. recently replaced manifold gaskets due to overheating.

Hello, What engine do you have, please? Are you confident there are no vacuum leaks at the intake manifold gaskets? Does the throttle tend to stick when you first press on the accelerator and then free up and work smoothly? Are the air inlet duct clamps tight so that all air intake passes through the Mass Air Flow Sensor? (MAF)

Please advise,

Roger

Any progress here?

Thanks,

Roger

Please, update the status of your question. I want to help.

Thanks,

Roger

1993 Chev Suburban Electrical / Lighting Systems   

i put a new alternator on. on the gauge it reads 14 volts and runs good. turn on lights and or a/c and it starts to run ruff with no power turn them off and goes back to running good. at alternator it reads 13.79 volts with or with out stuff on but at the battery and this is new it starts out at 13.79 and slowly goes down to 13.20s and less. what can i do this is a 4x4 with a 454 multi port inj. 2500 model surburban

13.20 is not a bad number under a load.Some alternators such as Powermaster ones come tested with a dyno sheet, telling the consumer the amp and volt ratings.I have a similar truck with a 454 and it will still run ok down tp 9 volts. Try getting the truck scanned and see if there any weak sensors

if i turn stuff off the truck will pick back up and run .why does it read out of the back of the alt 13.89 and at the battery 1320 and lower it starts out at the same as the alt but turn something on and you can watch the numbers go down and the truck starts to run bad . i put a new dist, coil,coolant sensor, map sensor and tps not much left fuel pressure in with in specks has new wires etc.as soon as voltage drops it runs bad i put a new alt yesterday took it back and got another today new battery also ?

'Battery is easy to test (or get tested)
First look at the 'date code'on battery.Most have a useful life of 5-6 years.With winter coming you do not want a 'margional'battery.I just replaced my car battery that started car 99% of the time. I did a simple test.Lights on for 5-10 minutes...with engine shut off...car did not start.That battery was 7 years old!The different readings you are getting are a sign that there is a little resistance in the wires.Replace battery cables that are very corroded on ends or have a bulge in insulation (hidden corrosion)

new battery 2 days old , i need to know why there is 2 different reading and how 2 test and fix

The battery voltage ALWAYS drops some when there is a load on it.

1992 Chev Suburban Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When shifting Always

When accelerating the automatic transmission will not shift from second to third until the tach is at 4000 rpms. The shift from third to forth is normal then it won't shift into OD. I've changed the fluid and filter. The fluid looked fine it was still red and didn't smell burnt at all.

Have the electronic shift modulator checked.I believe AAMCO provides a free estimate and diagnosis.If the fluid was clean,Its kind of hard to believe clutch plates or torque converter are the problem but its possible.There also could be a slight obstruction in the valve body thats not allowing proper shift pressure.
Good Luck,
Paul

The problem is I'm living in Germany now and we don't have any local AAMCO's around and work on American made vehicles is expensive. I don't beleive my transmission has and electronic shift modulator, I believe it shifts via a cable hooked to the carb. Any other sugestions?

Whether eletronic or mechanical,your vehicle does have a shift modulator.Was not aware you are out of country but I'm sorry to say that if it is a modulation problem,a transmission specialist would most likely be who you need to see.
Good Luck,
Paul

1990 Chev Suburban Engine Stalling When accelerating When cold

the engine was just rebuilt and runs fine after it is warmed up. but before it is up to temp, when starting from a stop the engine almost stalls no matter how much gas i give it.

First thing that I would check are the temp sensors in the intake and the level of the coolant in the engine.

I checked the coolant and its full. and i replaced the coolant temperature sensor and it hasn't made a difference. and i was just looking through the chilton book and there isnt an air intake temperature sensor on my engine.(350ci with TBI)

Kinda expensive randomly changing sensors, have you checked for malfunction codes?

i checked for codes and found one for Electronic spark timing bypass circuit is grounded or low. so i bought a new electronic spark control module which took care of that code but it still doesn't want to accelerate.

Has your mechanic checked the injector spray pattern to make sure they are okay.

Does the engine actually misifire or simply doesn't have enough power to move?

it idles fine but when it is under load when im accelerating or starting from a stop it stalls or bogs down.

1989 Chev Suburban Drive Train / Driveline Vibration When driving Always

Hello,
I have had my rear end rebuilt, the torque converter replaced along with the flywheel and a new drive shaft installed (I don't know much about the new drive shaft except my mechanic says it's straight as an arrow).
Problem: From 0 to about 35/40mph the ride is fine; at 40 to about 55 it vibrates; from about 57 to nearly 65 it's the smoothest ride of all; from then on the vibrations increase with the most at 75 plus mph. The vivrations are felt in my rear end and seem "harmonic" or wave like.

What do you think it is--do these Chevy suburbans have this kind of problem? I just want to go fishing but I can't drive the freeway.

Herb Dreyer

Herb,
I would first take jack the rear of the truck in the air, block the front wheels, put it in 2WD and drive the truck to 75MPH. You should feel the vibration if it is anywhere in the rear drivetrain. Next take off your wheels and try it again. If the vibration is gone, balance your rear tires and check for bent axle flanges. If you still have the vibration, remove the rear driveshaft, put a drain pan under the transmission tail, put it in 4WD with the front end off the ground and check again. With some trial and error (time, not parts) you can narrow down the vibration to its source.
Dale

Thank you for the info--I do not have 4WD?
Herb

Great, That will make your life a bit easier! Just forget the lines about 2wd and 4wd. The whole process is the same except you won't need to jack the front end.
Dale

1987 Chev Suburban Engine Upgrade  

In short she has an excellent body but 240k mile and is a 3/4 ton 2x4 with a 350cc 5.7 F/I in her so she is getting tired. Maintenace and repairs (and gas) will only nickel and dime me so i was considering upgrading to a vortec 5.7/6.0 Is this even an applicable option? If so what would be a good year engine to search for and if not what are my options? She doesn't smoke runs well on the freeway however tends to foul out plugs quickly and tends to miss a lot on acceleration and i doubt that i am running on all 8 cylinders.

5-12-03.
Hello, Did you like this truck when the engine had good power?

Man, lots of issues concerning computers, their wiring harness requirements, transmission compatability (bolt pattern, tough enough for the bigger engine, rear end ratio factor) come into play here.

You may find it cheaper to rebuild your engine, replace it with a 'TARGET' engine from a GM dealer, or, from some other reputable supplier.

An upgrade means a 'blank check' until you cover every base.

What is fouling the plugs? You said it doesn't smoke...

Roger

i believe oil is settling on soome of the plugs and not burning off distributer is new plus are bosch plat +4's but same problem as a standard Delco. I love the truck but she loves oil and gas. I cna't put her out of her misery so i have to try and fix her and i have no idea where the major problem is except old and tired.

5-12-03.

I'd start with a compression test and a good scope check of the ignition system.

Plugs may be fouling from valve guide seals that are leaking. These are serviced without removing the heads from the block.

Testing will guide your decision on which way to go, I sure couldn't begin any other way.

Roger