Chev Z24

1999 Chev Z24 Windows / Glass   

Currently my power windows are stuck in the down position. When ever I attempt to roll the window up the window moves slightly then stops. Now when I listen to the window motor when I roll it out, i can here it engage but then it all stops (there is no grinding and no evidence that the motor is even moving). When I place the car into the run position (just before starting it) notice when i engage my windows the lights dim in the interior. Also when running the engine idle and engaging the Power window switch i can here a drop in power in the engine. My car is a 99 Cavalier z24 coupe. Could this be the battery, especially if the window starts to engage but stops? Also my passenger side window was moving really slow for sometime before both stopped working.

Yes It sounds like the battery.The average life of a battery is about 5 years, and they usually have a sticker on them with a date.
Possible also a problem with the alternator not charging the battery adequatley.This time of the year puts a big strain on the charging system.Heaters, wipers,rear defog and lights are all used more in the winter.
If you can see the back of the alternator, there is a bearing housing at the back, a round part (1 1/2"diameter X 3/8") coming out of the middle. Find a screwdriver or wrench, and with engine running, hold the metal part against the bearing housing. A strong magnetic pull = good alternator. A weak or nonexistant magnetic pull, usually means a weak or dead alternator.
A lot of shops, IE Midas, do a free or cheap alt/batt test also.

Checked out the Battery and Altenator at Autozone and both passed the tests.

Sounds like the system is jammed or the belt is stripped.The older GMs used a gear on the motor and it meshed with a 1/2 moon shaped gear that actuated an arm.Simple and effective.The new style (yours) has a motor with a sprocket, and a slotted nylon tooth belt, in a track. Because it is made of plastic or nylon it tends to get stripped. The only way to see that is remove the inside door panel. You can reattach the switch, without the panel, and observe the operation, or non operation of the system. If you can grasp the top af the glass,while applying the switch, you might be able to assist it past the bad spot

No dice. I attempted to assist the window up and it looks like it wont budge. I just purchased a new regulator and motor for the window. Will that solve my issue?

It should, but they are a bit of a pain to change.

1998 Chev Z24 Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

Hi I need to change the front indicator bulb on a 1998 Chevy Cavalier Z24 but I can't figure how to get at it!

Use the following link to access a repair guide for your car-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

1997 Chev Z24 Engine Vibration When idling Always

When my car is idling in park or just stopped at a light, it makes a sputtering or misfiring sound, and it vibrates the whole car. Also, my lights seem to go off for split seconds as this happens. I took it to get fixed, and the technician said it was the ignition cover. I had that fixed, and nothing changed--it's still happening and the check engine light is still on. Please help!

Is your car over 100,000 miles

if it is your check engine light will pop on and off because it's got a crank sensor it's tellin the computer that your not getting the right oil presure but you are really getting the right presure you need

No, it only has 75,000 miles.

I've paid $672 now, with both the ignition cover replaced and the second time in--where he replaced the ignition control module, coil packs, and boots. The original problem is still occuring. I'm wondering what else it could be. Or what could it be in conjunction with the things he replaced? (b/c obviously the problem is NOT fixed)

has there been spark plugs put in it. if not put those in auto lite or champion plugs thats the best. is your fuel filter dirty clogging up differant gas from stations

1989 Chev Z24 All Part Groups   

tryin to fix grandmas ride,89' z24,2.8. will donate what i can for now but on my word more later! wich of course isnt anything to hear i am sure but serious, i am honest.
car starts and runs and revs great when cold,when go to drive over 15 mph car suddenly drops dead.
restarts fine right after and idles but still no drive over 15 or mph.
also,after norm. operating temp reached, if at idle,slowly dies and wont start again till cooled down for 3 min. or so.
my next trial is finally the fuel system pressure at rail, then after tank.
originally had map sensor error code, replaced it,then went on to replace ecm,coil paks,coolant temp. sens.o2 sens.,oils pressure sens/switch,tested egr,checked all sensor and switch connections/wires,disregarded crank possition sens,checked pcv, and maybe more,not sure.
finally off my crazy electrical spell and on to fuel.

hoping there is an obvious solution i am missing here or hoping for a reccomendation as well.
i am next doing fuel pressures and suspect either pump or regulator.
please help? thank you very much!

Actually sometimes when you exhaust all the fuel and electrical possibilities, it might be the exhaust.Sometimes partially plugged catalytic convertor in the exhaust can cause your exact symptoms. Look into it after you check the fuel system (filters?)

thanks for the tip!
yeah i forgot to mention that it doesnt neccesarilly only happen when under load.
i can drive it at times and engine runs,sounds,feels, great smooth,strong. absolutely never occur sputter or bogging at any load so long as the engine temp. is not yet reached norm. tempature.
also when it dies i can hear air flow when listening at intake all the way untill it completly dies.
havent considered catalytic only because of past experiences with clogged/faulty ones and the indicators from them so i hope i am not wrong there.

everyone is now telling me its fuel pump. but dont understand why only at operating tempature?
as i dont know fuel well. i am optimistic of it as well but i am gratefull for any advice on this issue.
after replacing map sens. no codes have occurred since wich i thought odd.
but thank you for response and was wondering if besides pressure reg. test at both ends and pressure regulator test, then if it gets there,idividual injector test, is there another chain of command within the fuel system maybe? since absolutely will never bog down or sputter down havent considered air control/intake.
sorry for the long request here just at last ropes almost i think and i get really agitated with car repairs where the car wins! lol. well,sort of.
thanks again!
gary

There is a coolant temp sensor that tells computer the engine temp is cold/hot. The comp then tells the injectors to run rich/lean. Might test/replace the sensor.
There is a cheap item called a 'noid light'that can test individual injector firing. most parts stores have them.
Car NEVER wins ! lol