Chrysler Concorde

1996 Chrysler Concorde Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

I need to locate the timer relay for interior lights on my 1996 Chrysler Concorde, due to the lights never turning off, unless I pull the fuse. Any ideas on where this may be located? I have heard several locations, and to be honest, I'm not even sure what the timer relay is going to look like. ANy help would be appreciated.

Hello, When looking at the wiring diagram that Chilton Automotive Data Base provides I see that the Body Computer controls the interior lights.

I wonder if a switch has broken and causes the lights to stay on? Do you see any indication that a door is ajar even when you know it is not?

I may have to check a different data base for a second look at the system. So far I don't see a timer to replace. Everything appears to be about the Body Computer and fuse #13.

Roger

The door switches have all checked out fine. I do know that in the fuse box inside the car, there is a 10 amp fuse, will have to check the # of the slot for sure. In the computer box under the hood, slot # 20 (I believe) is the brake lights and interior lights.
While removing either fuse or relay does shut off the lights, that is about it. At the moment, in order to be able to still use the car, we have removed the fuse in the inside control panel.
One new thing we noticed earlier when checking everything over, was a slight spark when inserting the fuse back into the slot. I know this is not "normal", however, I am not sure what may be causing this. A short somewhere? A dirty contact? Is there something I am overlooking, that is so "simple" I wouldn't have thought of it? (No, it's not the dimmer switch left on, that is one of the first things I checked.)

The spark you see when inserting the fuse is to be expected when the system the fuse protects has something energized. We shouldn't be concerned unless the fuse pops when plugged in.

I have a medical appointment this morning and then I'll check the other data base I mentioned.

Roger

Will you please tell me your email address? I will send you a trouble chart that should help. I realize you may not have the diagnostic scanner referred to but you'll get an idea where to get started.

If you prefer a fax please provide the number and if a cover sheet is needed.

Thanks,

Roger

My e-mail is [redacted] Thank you for you help!!

Email has been sent

Roger

Roger-
One of the connectors is white, the other is black and yellow. I am not sure which one to unplug, due to the variation in colors from what you sent.
Babette

Are you looking behind the right kick panel for the body computer? Is there only one box in that area?

Look at the wiring diagram I sent. On the right side of the body computer on the top row of wires the first wire on the right is a Yel/Red wire, pin 5, Connector C253.

The bottom row of wires first one from the right side is a Tan/Red, pin 3, Connector C252.

Can you verify the wire colors in the connectors in the position shown? If so there will be only two connectors plugged into the BCM. If the box you found has three connectors that is not likely our BCM.

If the key is off it won't matter if you unplug one or all of the connectors. If the interior lights go off when you unplug the box please advise. Have the key off when you unplug or reconnect connectors to the box.

I suspect the RKE Module is the problem but I don't want to skip the diagnostic path.

Roger

Roger-

The problem ended up being in a ground in the rear driver side passenger overhead light. Found purely by accident, but the BCM wasn't involved, neither was the RKE. Which was good news, as I had already checked into costs on the BCM.

Thank you again for all of your help, but at this time, the problem was solved in another way.

To receive a refund please write to All-Parts.com, Administrator, All-Parts.com

Should you choose to accept my help and allow me to be paid by ALL Parts please click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

All the best,

Roger

Roger-

There is no way I would request a refund, even though the problem ended up being simple, you took the time to look up information for me, and answer all of my questions.

Thank you so much for your help! You never know, I may need your services again.

Thank you again,
Babette

1996 Chrysler Concorde Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Car starts and runs for 2 seconds then automatic shut off. That relay has voltage and continuity. Interior lamp constantly chatters until its fuse removed.When turn on ignition heater/air conditioner fan automatically turns on. There is a constant clicking sound that can only be stopped by removing fuse for gauges PRNDL. Do you have any ideas? Howard

YEs but we need to starty with what engine do you have?
Does it ever continue to run after start up?
Which relay are you refferring to that has voltage and continuity?
The interier light chatterring is that blinking off and on?
What is the acronym PRNDL park reverse nuetral drive and low what are you saying about that?
can you pull any of the fault codes from the computer?
When I get these answers I can better assist you with help

3.5 L engine. No codes by OBD II scanner. It runs fine for 2 seconds then shuts off. Relay I am talking about is the Automatic Shut Off relay.

When the car dies after starting that means your gas-cut off anti-theft feature has been activated (ie; if your battery
goes dead, etc.) you should be able to deactivate that by turning the key in the drivers door to the left, right and back to left (standard deactivation per manufacturer). Easier than pulling the fuses
try this out and get back to me

No, that did not work.

Ok that was worth a try now lets do some process of elimination testing.
Can you tell me which fuse # you have removed?
we want to check the auto shutdown relay and the fuel pump relay
Let's see if these relays both have power to them
This is #18 a 10 amp fuse to send power to them.
You hear them click also
There is a dkgrn/org wire at the fuel injectors it is the constant power.
When the car is turned to the engine run position there should be 12 volt pulses while cranking.
Test this out and give me feed back I can send you a schematic if you think it will help just give me an email address

1995 Chrysler Concorde Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens sometimes When warm 

ATC panel becomes blank and AC stops working, however it blows heat at a low speed but does not respond to controls

Hello, the ATC control box itself is usually at fault. Conditions are often caused by a hot car interior from parking where the sun heats up the car and will then have a blank control on engine start. Over time the condition will worsen until the ATC is blank all the time instead of intermittently.

Without the ATC computer in the control head telling temp/mode doors what to do,it is common for air to flow from the heater outlet and temp is warm because airflow is not routed across the A/C evaporator core for cooling.

Roger

What's happening here please?

Roger

May I hear from you, please? Thanks!

Roger

Hello? Will you please update this question status?

Thanks,

Roger

Are we finished here? Please update.

Thanks,

Roger

1995 Chrysler Concorde All Part Groups   

I removed shift selector knob now it won't allow me to depress button or shift into gear other than park. depressing button doesn't allow me to move selector into gear . plastic insert and spring are good but does depress when button pushed

when you mash brakes does lock release

YES IT DOES BUT STILL CAN'T MOVE SHIFTER

take knob off then try to shift

1994 Chrysler Concorde Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens sometimes No pattern

My 1994 Chrysler Concorde has Automatic Temperature Control (ATC) When start the car the blower motor comes on by itself and blows out hot air. The ATC appears to be off because the digial temperature doesn't show up, none of the buttons work and you can't push any buttons to make the blower stop. I have to pull the Blower fuse to get stop working. However, sometimes when I start the car it works fine for awhile then starts the same thing again.
I replaced the ATC a few months ago. That didn't solve the problem. Earlier this year, I replaced the Blower motor because it was making a noise while running. That fixed the noise problem but not the come on by itself problem. I thought maybe it is a Grounding problem but I have checked everything I can think of. I have not replaced the Blower motor Module. Could that be the problem? Or,is there something else that causes this? I would appreciate any advice you have.
Thanks,
Larry Dollar
Dayton, Ohio

PS
I've had the car since it was new. The dealer replaced the A/C evaporator 6 times while it was under warranty. The A/C does not work now.

It does sound like a module or computer of some type causing the trouble, Im not sure what engine you have but checking service bulletins and recalls that particular model of chrysler has several of them pertaining to the AC/and heating. let me do some further checking and I will give you a more definitive answer.

1993 Chrysler Concorde Heating / Cooling System Making Noise Happens always When cold

whenever i turn on the a/c on the or the front defrost on my climate control, it makes this loud scraping/grinding noise and it stops it i hit the a/c button (to turn off the a/c). Is that the a/c clutch?

and if possible could you tell me an approx of how much it would cost to fix?

Hello,
Since the noise comes and goes when you turn the a/c on and off, it is the clutch for the a/c compressor that is making the noise. However, the clutch is not the problem, your a/c compressor has seized-up.

This is an expensive repair to be considered since many vehicles did not switch to the newer R134a refrigerant until the 1996 year model went into production.

Your car will need to be converted to the R134a refrigerant (if not already done) so that freon is affordable. A compressor replacement along with a new receiver drier (aka accumumulator... usually required or the compressor will not have a warranty) can run twelve to fifteen hundred dollars easily if done in a shop.

Is your car a keeper? Does your climate dictate that a/c is a must have? If you have the skills to do this work you can bring the cost below a thousand dollars. One drawback to self help is to consider how you will comply with EPA requirements to recover any freon still in the old system before you "open" it up for repairs?

What are your thoughts?,

Roger

is it something that would affect the front defrost if i had the heat on it?

Yes:
1. It will take longer to clear the glass.
2. The area of the glass cleared will be reduced.

The manufacturer runs the a/c compressor during defrost events to de-humidify the delivered air. With the a/c's help more of the glass clears and it does it faster than without. Without the a/c compressor's help it is just like any vehicle (newer or older) in use that is not equiped with a/c at all.

You MUST unplug the a/c compressor's electrical connector to use defrost or your a/c clutch will fry.

Any help?,

Roger