Chrysler LeBaron

1995 Chrysler LeBaron Windows / Glass   

The convertible top will not go up enough to latch and secure on one side (right-passenger side.) There is no knob in the trunk for adjustment or allowing for manual getting the top back up that I can find.

You need to check for anything binding in the track or bent. How far does it lack?

1992 Chrysler LeBaron Engine Hesitating When accelerating When cold

Hesitates when trying to accelerate when I put car in drive. I have to feather gas pedal for about 5 minutes before it runs okay. After it starts running okay everything is fine. Car idles fine in neutral and in drive, but bogs when I try to accelerate. Car also will rev up in neutral without any problems.

I ran a code check on car and got 55

error code 55

error code 55

Hello, I will try to get you some ideas on this question tomorrow the 30th using the Mitchell I Data Base.

Roger

Thank you Roger.

Goodness! I forgot to ask what size engine you have, please?

Roger

Resending my message...Roger

What size engine, please?

Roger

3.0L V6

OK, 3.0L V6. How are you getting the error code 55? If that is the only code that appears when flashing the CHECK ENGINE light then the "55" is the indicator for completion of fault code display. That means all monitored sensors have been queryied and (if there are no codes) the completion of the search for codes has manifested, hence the "55".

Roger

From the Mitchell I Data Base, the following suggestions are made to address hesitation when accelerating.

HESITATION-ACCELERATION:

1. Check ignition and sensor wires for proper operation.

2. Check distributor cap for moisture (if applicable).

3. Check distributor cap for carbon tracking (if applicable).

4. Ensure spark plug wires are OK.

5. Ensure spark plugs are not fouled.

6. Check EGR valve operation.

7. Check MAP sensor.

8. Check throttle position sensor.

9. Check ignition and coil circuit.

10. Check crank and cam sensors (DIS system)

I got engine code by turning key to ACC and back to OFF three times...on third time engine code flashes with the check engine light. A friend told he how to do this??!!?? Could there be a problem with choke sticking or not working at all?

The Mitchell I info does not suggest a choke related cause.

However, the THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS) may have a dead spot, or, the COOLANT TEMPERTATURE SENSOR (CTS) may be acting up and causing the computer to call for an incorrect fuel mixture.

Roger

1992 Chrysler LeBaron Electrical / Lighting Systems   

at high speed (60) engine stops and will start again automaticall when it has slowed to about 50. doen not do at low speeds. car has 290,000 miles.

Start by checking for fault codes with the Key On/ Key Off method. Do you need instructions to do this?

instructions for getting code, please.

Turn the key On, Off, On, Off, and On again (three times within five seconds)(On is to the point the dash warning lights come on, but not engine cranking).

Now observe the check engine light. It'll begin to flash trouble codes.

Flash Flash pause Flash Flash Flash= Trouble code 23 (2 flashes in the tens place and 3 flashes for the ones place).

Flash Flash Flash pause Flash Flash= 32.

It may take a few tries to get the hand of it, no worry just turn the key off and repeat the sequence. It should flash at least two codes (one is for end of codes, 88 I think).

I did it several times and get 1 2 5 5

1992 Chrysler LeBaron Ignition System   

Just parked the car, went to restart it and the inigition switch wont't turn. there is no play in the steering wheel either

Have you tried :
First turn steering wheel in one direction, applying some force.While holding in that position, try the key. If that fails, try the same, forcing the wheel in the opposite, again trying the key.
Sometimes, when the car is shut off with the wheel to one side, the cars steering tries to 'center' itself and puts undue pressure on the key/locking mechanism.Doing the above procedure, reverses the problem and usually works.
If there has been a previous similar problem, there might be a problem with either the shifting cable or the adjustment,

1991 Chrysler LeBaron Ignition System   

Had trouble starting car, drove ok.Started fine 2nd time that day, then died after 5 minutes of driving. Hasn't started since then. Hear clicking the first couple times I turn the key, then nothing. One or two times it "hummed" while turning key.

check battery and starter connections check voltage in battery

Check voltage in battery and connectiond for corrosion. Often places like Midas will check your Charging and Starting system for free or low fee.If battery is less than five years old( they have a date code) I'd suspect the battery. If its only a year or two old I'd suspect the alternator.If you can get a jump start, with engine running, hold the blade of a screwdriver against the rear bearing of the alternator housing. A good alternator usually will have a strong magnetic pull.Weak or no pull, suspect the alternator.

1991 Chrysler LeBaron Engine   

The car vibrates when I start it,when I reach 65 miles per hour speed, and when I slow down. The problem goes off sometimes but most of the times it is present. The "Check Engine" light goes on.

The air filter and the oil was just changed. Mechanic changed sparks, wires and distributor. The fuel system was cleaned as well. The problem still persists. The car is too old to be checked by the computer. Local Mechanics don't know what's wrong. Please help!

Hello, Did your mechanic check your car for codes? A check engine light is most always associated with an emissions system code to call attention to components with a fault.

What engine please? I'll try to help.

Roger

3l V6. Well, the mechanic couldn't find the plug to connect the computer to. He told me there's none, but I'm not sure he's right.

Okay, 3.1L V6. Let me see how you access the codes. I'll be right back.

Roger

Thank you for your help sir!

Turn the ignition key on off on off on within five seconds.

The check engine light will begin flashing codes. The first thing you'll see is the check engine light stay on for two seconds for a bulb test. Then it will go out.

All codes are two digit codes. Lamp flashes five times then pauses, then flashes once----code 51. There will be a four second pause between codes. Lamp flashes 5 times, pauses, flashes 5 times-----code 55.

The code 51 is the beginning of diagnostics. Code 55 is the end of dignostics. Any number between the beginning 51 and the end 55 is a code we will have interest in.

See what you find. If you missed writing down a code just let the system run through the sequence again until you have recordd all. We will ignore 51 & 55.

Roger

Ok so this is what I've got. It didn't flash first five times. I flashed once and then started flashing code. It flashed twice, paused, six times, paused, twice, paused, seven times, and then finished with 5 and 5. so basicaly the code is 26 27. Is that good?

Remember the last time you turned the key on in the sequence? The check engine light came on for two seconds for a bulb test and went off. Then the flash process begins. You did great!

I'll check for info on codes 26 and 27. I'm concerned about your mechanic. He should know how to do all of this!

Back soon,

Roger

Hey!, I can't find a code 26. Did you get a code 51 at all? That is indeed a genuine code if you saw it.

There is a code 27 for the fuel injector control circuit. The fuel injector output driver in the car's computer does not respond properly to the control signal.

You may have a computer going bad as it is not controlling the fuel injectors properly and that would sure draw focus to the cause of a vibration in the engine. It's not getting fuel. The ignition can't fire fuel that is not there.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

I'm not getting code 51 at all. I get code 1 only which doesn't make sense in this case. The fuel injector problem would make sense, but what about stallings when I'm slowing down?? That has nothing to do with fuel right? So what you are saying is that my computer is going bad or my fuel injector. I read about this kind of problem online and many people said that it is fuel pump's problem. I will try to do this code test again tomorrow and see if I get the same results.

All right. Disregard the 51 thoughts.

A test of the fuel pressure will address the strength of the fuel pump. If the pump shows to be weak the injectors would starve. Even a restricted fuel filter will have negative results.

A code set by a fuel pump in my opinion would be a stretch and a surprise to me. Code 27 points to the "control circuit" for the fuel injector.

I'll try to dig up more to ponder.

Roger

Where do I do this fuel pressure test?? How much is it? Can I do it myself? :) Thanks

Locate the fuel rail that supplies fuel to the injectors. There will be a metal valve on the rail very similar to one on the end of a tire valve stem.

Remove the cap and connect a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail. You will find that auto parts stores loan tools like this gauge for a refundable deposit. No need to buy one unless you like the price.

There are times when I will tape the connected gauge to the windshield and drive the car until the problem presents to see what the gauge shows the pressure is at that time. Requires a hose longer of course.

Roger

Normal fuel rail pressure is 48 psi.

Roger

Ok so I got the fuel pressure gauge. I have to pay for it but I will return it once I'm done:) I will do the check tonight and tell you the results. So let's say the pressure will be lower than it's supposed to. What do we do then?

We'll give some thought to the fuel pressure regulator as a posibility...but that should not set code 27.

Low fuel pressure calls for pump replacement. The injectors require the 48 psi to spray a full throttle full pulse or a minimum throttle minimum pulse.

If there is a restriction in the supply line a good pump may take longer to attain full pressure but it will still build to spec psi.

Within a pound or two of the 48 psi is acceptable as gauges vary.

I'm interested in what you find as this test is part of good diagnosis. Low pressure can cause low power at higher speeds and even a misfire due to fuel starvation...still not a code 27 condition.

I'm keeping an open mind,

Roger

What about stallings when i'm slowing down or idlling?

How seriously have you considered how well your engine would run with the fuel injector control circuit malfunctioning frequently enough to set a diagnostic fault code?

I respect your interest in addressing all aspects of the car's condition. I too hope for your complete satisfaction.

So far none of what your mechanic did for you even considered running diagnostics for the check engine light cause. No wonder you are skeptical.

Roger

Roger, I seriously don't know much about car engines. I'm a computer science major, I try to solve problems thinking logically. I trust your knowlege and I will do as told.

you said that code 27 is for the fuel injector control circuit. If that would be the problem, how could I fix it? Update the drivers? lol. I only know how to do that on a regular computer.

Picture the car's computer issuing a command based on inputs that are monitored.

The driver board for the injectors has the job to carry out the computer's idea of what should happen next to continue status quo or make a change for a new result.

There are feedback circuits that carry current information back to the computer's main board where commands issued are compared to benchmarked results expected.

The injector driver board gets caught/blamed for not doing the consistant job required for the desired result. Code 27 sets as an identifyer wherein the fault lies. A technician cannot service the computer.

Understanding the code points to injectors performance and not to ignition issues I move past spark plugs and wires to find the cause.

So I would ask myself "Are the injectors clean, are they supplied the correct pressure, are they connected electrically?"

So far my questions would have favorable answers. When driven can I duplicate the owner's complaint? Yes! I'm going to clear the codes and drive the car to see if the code 27 resets and the symptom persists.

If it does, now is the time to seek authorization for replacing the computer and road test again to confirm the repair complete.

Thats how I roll,

Roger

Look what I found! The 1980s-1990s Chrysler Computer Codes
26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached (need to check computer signals, voltage reg, injectors) (SEE NOTE #4 BELOW)
27 Injector circuit isn't switching when it's told to (TBI)
OR (MPI) injector circuit #1 not switching right
OR (all 1990-) injector output driver not responding
- check computer, connections
NOTE #4
During cranking, the computer will test the current through the injector to see whether there's too much resistance in the injector's path. If there is, code 26 is set.

The problem may be cured with tuner cleaner on the
connectors
.

For TBI engines, the injector's cold resistance should be between 0.9 and 1.2 ohms (specs vary with year). This is a peak-and-hold injector. With the engine idling the peak period should be about 1.2 milliseconds whereas the hold period will vary. If it's lower than this at idle, then the injector's shorted or there's a defect in the injector driver circuit. (Bohdan Bodnar)

There is another case that seem just like mine.
Question: 1994 Chrysler Lebaron mileage: 87000. I purchased a Lebaron about 2 months ago. I really don’t want to put any money into it but there's a couple of things I need two fix. There’s a hesitation when I step on the gas and sometimes when I’m stopped it’ll cut off. Now I raised the idle a little and re-gapped my plugs I’m going now to change my fuel filter and check my timing can you guys tell me if I missed anything? Also, does dry gas really work? I plan on buying another car but right now I need this one two get me back and forth to work. HELP PLEASE. Also, where is my EGR located?

Answer: Dry gas will work if there is a slight amount of water in the gas tank. Your car may be ready for a major tune-up including spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter and air filter. Also, perform a fuel pump pressure test. Clean fuel injection system including throttle bore, idle speed control motor and passages. If problem still exists, scan computer for trouble codes. The EGR valve is located on the intake manifold by the master cylinder.

Code 26 is not listed for the 1994 model. See:
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-55a.htm?once=true&

This is interesting and I would look into it:
NOTE #4
During cranking, the computer will test the current through the injector to see whether there's too much resistance in the injector's path. If there is, code 26 is set.

The problem may be cured with tuner cleaner on the connectors.

Roger

well mine is 1991 model not 1994. Sorry for missunderstanding.

I just gave this example with 1994 because the problem is exactly like mine.

No harm in research. No offense taken. Lets see how it all unfolds.

Suppertime,

Roger

Where is this fuel rail located and how does it look like?

The fuel rail is right on top of the intake manifold. Locate the fuel injectors with electrical connectors and you will find the rail.

The fuel rail is often stainless steel or black in color.

Roger

I'm sorry I didn't do the pressur etest today because of strong rain. I don't have an available garage to do it. I will do is as soon as possible.

No problem. We are not in a time window here and there is no reason for concern.

When you can,

Roger

What is the status here please?

Thanks,

Roger

Well, I brought the car to a new mechanic who connected it to the computer and told me that it's the cylinder problem. He said it would cost around 400 to fix it. I just told him that I'd pay only if the car will work properly. I have no other choice.

I believe the compression test would have revealed a weak cylinder. The repair outcome would likely have taken the same path you are on.

What then shall be done with this question?

Roger

I guess that is it. Thank you for your help Roger. It was nice talking to you.

To accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me please close the question or click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

I thank you,

Roger

1991 Chrysler LeBaron Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I closed the headlight covers by giving the motor direct power, it will not close when I shut off the light

Hello, There are seperate relays that control headlight motors. An open relay and a close relay. Have you checked these?

There is also a Headlight Motor Relay that should be checked.

These relays are in the Power Distribution Center under the hood. Relay C is the Open/Close Relay #1. Relay D is the Open/Close Relay #2. Relay E is the Headlight Motor Relay. You will want to check your car's fuses also.

Roger

can you tell me or show me the relays

Tell me your email address please. I'll email a legend to you.

Thanks,

Roger

Have you located the power distribution center under the hood? Is there a legend for the relay locations on the inside of the cover?

Roger

I can only find 3 relays on the inside of left fender just in front of the shock absorber tower. there are relays under the instrument panel that works when I switch the lights on

Do I have the correct info? A 1991 LeBaron? Coupe, Convertible? Or, Sedan? GTC, or LX?

The relays under the dash that click when turning on the headlights should be for low or high beam lights. These are at the bottom of the fuse relay box.

The headlight open/close relays should be in the power distribution center in front of the left shock tower. Did you find a legend under the lid/cover for the power distribution center?

Roger

it is an 1991 Le Baron convertible. I can only find 3 relays in front of the left shock tower. I cannot find any distribution center

May I have your email address please? I'll email a couple pics of what I see in the data base I use to suggest repairs.

Thanks,

Roger

my email is: [redacted]

I'll get the email on it's way. Please check your inbox, spam/junk mail for subject LEBARON

Roger

Your car is a 1990 year model built in St. Louis, MO.

To the left of the steering column under the dash there is a Concealed Headlight Control Module. It is not field serviced. You will likely need to replace this control to restore operation. Salvage will be one source as I doubt you will find one elsewhere. I could be wrong.

There are no relays outside the control to be serviced.

The control we arte talking about has one electrical connector with ten wire capability. I see only six wires in this connector. One Red, One Gray/Pink, One Gray/Red, One Drk Blu/Yellow, One Black, One Brn/Yellow.

Roger

Has the updated info I sent in my last message been helpful? What else do you need to accept my answer?

Please advise,

Roger

It was right what you told me now we found the right year. Are we not able to fin out which relay is for this purpose, so wecan change that or is it necessary to change the whole center

There are no relays to replace, you'll want to replace the control module.

The wiring diagram for the 1990 model shows the control module does it all. The 1991 model introduces the relays on the power distribution center that may be changed.

Roger

1990 Chrysler LeBaron Electrical / Lighting Systems Overheating When driving Always

The electric radiator cooling fan does not come on as it should. I have checked the fan itself and the motor is fine. It appears that it is not getting "fire" from the on-board plug-in. Can't find any fuse or locate a sending unit. What would you suggest? Thanks, Gary

Hi;
Your sending unit controls the fan. Disconnect it and the fan should come on. If it does you have a bad sending unit. Good Luck Les.

That's what I suspected......however, as I stated in my original question, I am not sure where the sending unit is located and what it looks like. Can you give me some idea?

Gary

Hi:
If you look right at where the thermostat is. It should be right there. It will have a black connector. Also this will help me if you can't find it. What size engine? Thanks Les.

1990 Chrysler LeBaron Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction Happens sometimes When warm 

sometime after driving and stopping (going to store) the transmission will not engage in any gear after a stop. you shut it off and restart the engine and it is ok? the transmission was rebuilt 6 mo. ago.

If you still have a warranty remaining, don't delay on contacting the shop offering the warranty.

Start by checking the fluid level and to see if the fluid is aerated. It seems you are losing pressure, let's see if there is enough fluid to start with.

1990 Chrysler LeBaron Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have a 1990 Chrysler Lebaron (V6)that won't start. For some reason there is no power going to the coil.

If there is no key On battery positive going to the coil (other end of meter/test light to a known good ground), start by checking battery cables, fusible links, fuses, and finally the ignition switch.

Temporarily jumper the positive side of the coil and see if the engine will start, this will let you know if you are only missing voltage to the coil (follow the wire checking it closely) OR if there is a major power feed missing.

The motor turns over just fine so the battery cables seem to be okay.......It must be a fuse somewhere, but where?

You should have underhood fuses and interior fuses.

Is there anything else that is not working?

Have you checked for trouble codes?

Yes, I have checked all fuses and they are okay and I have tried reading the codes with a code reader, but it is unresponsive.

Have you tried the key On/Off method? First confirm the check engine light is coming on, as it normally does when you first turn the key on.

Turn the key On, Off, On, Off, and On again (three times within five seconds)(On is to the point the dash warning lights come on, but not engine cranking).

Now observe the check engine light. It'll begin to flash trouble codes.

Flash Flash pause Flash Flash Flash= Trouble code 23 (2 flashes in the tens place and 3 flashes for the ones place).

Flash Flash Flash pause Flash Flash= 32.

It may take a few tries to get the hand of it, no worry just turn the key off and repeat the sequence. It should flash at least two codes (one is for end of codes, 88 I think)."

Yes, I have tried that key on, key off method, but for some reason it won't work.....The check light doesn't flash after I try this.......Could my car computer be dead?

Thanks!

1990 Chrysler LeBaron All Part Groups   

We have replaced the engine in our 1990 Lebaron. We did it ourselves so there are things that we don't know. The engine we replaced works great. We need a new starter but we can fix that. The problem is that when you start the car it will not move. When you shift it into gear, the car will not move. What did we do wrong?

HI, Did you connect the transmission torque converter to the engine flywheel?

Roger

yes

Good, then we should be able to count on the front pump in the trans to be working. I doubt that you could have made the connection if the torque converter were not fully seated and engaged to the pump drive.

Are you confident that the shift linkage is adjusted all right? Trans fluid full? Any electrical connections to the trans that are not tight or forgotten?

Roger

We are checking the fluid now and electrical connections. We could only find one wire loose. I don't know if the wire that I connected is in the right location. This outlet is on the transaxle next to the fire wall on the connecting link to the passager side. The wire that we plugged into said outlet had red markings. I don't know what that connection does. Can you help me?

What engine did you install? 2.2L, 2.5L, or 3.0L?

Roger

1989 Chrysler LeBaron Heating / Cooling System   

no electricity to a/c compressor and blower will not transfer to panel. Blower will go from floor to defrost. I replaced the a/c clutch relay on the fender well.

The control head may be faulty. Does it make any sound when you try to switch from floor to panel OR windshield to panel?

The A/C clutch will not receive power if the system is low on refrigerant charge. The system is protected with high and low pressure switches. If the system is low on refirgerant, or if pressure becomes to high, the switches cause an open circuit and shut the system down to prevent damage.

Did it fail all at once?

I should mention to never overlook fuses.

It doesn't make any noise when switching from floor to panel or windshield. It switches from floor to windshield just fine. It just won't switch to panel.
I unplugged the compressor. It is not getting fire from the plug that goes into the plug on the clutch. I haven't checked the freon yet. Is there more than one relay to it? I have checked the fuses.

You can, at your own discretion, jumper the compress clutch with a fused jumper wire. Don't run the system to long though as damage to the system can result (if you are low on regrigerant you are also low on oil). Does it cool normally now? If not you are probably low on refrigerant and probably should opt for professional service, if the system has not been retrofitted to R134A.

I did that. Now I know it is low on freon. I can retrofit it, run a vacuum and recharge. That is not the problem. Now I am concerned about the interchange between floor and panel with the blower. Any hints? It does fine between floor and defrost.

Does it move at all, or make any attempt to move, when you select anywhere between floor and panel?

Also, listening carefully, can you hear any hissing sound in the dash area when the controller is placed in the floor, panel, or windshield position?

no hissing sound but I can hear a faint clicking sound. A/C is charged and is running fine. It still goes from floor to defrost with no problems. The one wacuum line I found under the glove box has vacuum on it. All fuses are fine. I am stumped.

Are you not helping me any more?

The problem is either with the control panel (on the dash) or the actuator for the control door. You will need to try another controller or check the control door to see if it is trying to move when panel is selected.

How do I get to it?

Use the following link for general information on the heater, controls, etc.

http://www.autozone.ro/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0[redacted] df7d

If the link does not work visit autozone.com and click on 'Vehicle Repair Guides.'

1989 Chrysler LeBaron Fuel System   

Car wont start, changed out the auto shut down relay,the car started drove it for a while shut it of started it 3 or 4 times . everything fine, car sit for about 30 min. than my daughter drove it to walmart and back , no problems. car sit overnight daughter went to start it to drive to school , and it wont start. havnt replaced the relay yet, im figuring there must be something cuasing it to go bad if it is bad, i dont know, im not hearing the fuel pump either.
any ideas would be helpful thanks.
Tom

Hi Tom,

Have you looked at the terminals in the socket for the relay you replaced to see if they are burned? Do you have power on two terminals in the ASD Relay when the key is on? If not check fuses.

There is a chance the new relay you tried has failed. Will your vendor replace it?

Roger

Will you not communicate with me? No reply to me is listed, how do you expect me to help? I can't possibly know what you have done to address the second failure of the car to start.

Please advise,

Roger

I have check the relay did not see any burn marks, have not checked the power yet my lite tester is not working, i did not see any fuse that says asd relay or ignition in the fuse panel. idid see a ignition time delay fuse. does that have anything to do with the asd relay? im going to head out to get a new bulb for my light tester. note i did not see any burn marks on the other relay i replaced either

i dont have anymore time to mess with this car today ill get my light tester fixed and get back to you, thanks for the response.
Tom

One power source to the ASD relay is a white fusible link. The other is switched hot by the ignition switch and comes from an output terminal on the engine control computer.

I don't see a relation here to the ignition time delay fuse.

Roger

ok light test is working, i grounded the lite tester to the neg. side of the car battery.i then unhooked the asd relay and turned the key on there is four wires that run to the socket for the relay, they are a red whick showed hot comming from the comp. there is a white/blue wire that showed hot im assuming runs from the ignition.a gr/blk wire that was not hot, and a yellow and blue wire that was not hot. Now i then plugged the asd relay into the socket and turned the ignition on i then checked the wires again, the red showed hot , the wht/blue showed hot, the gr/blk showed nothing and the yel/blue showed nothing, but when i touched the yel/blu wire with the lite tester i herd a click at the relay and i herd the fuel pump start running as long as i was connected with the lite tester. i unhooked the lite tester and then started the car , it started and then ran fine until i shut it off after about 5 min. i shut it off and started 2 more times, it started. now acouple of questions, what does the green and blk wire goto is it a ground wire? and on the top of the relay there is a metal bracket that you bolt to the frame of the car to hold the relay in place , is this a ground for the relay, is it possible its just not getting a good ground causing it not to engage the fuel pump like its suppose to.

Now would be a good time to send you a wiring diagram on the ASD relay.

What is your email address please?

Roger

The Dark Green/Black wire is the energized output to the fuel pump. It also powers the heated oxygen sensor and the ignition coil.

The attachment bracket is not a ground for the relay. The ground for the relay is computer controlled.

Roger

is it possile that the yel/blue wire is not making good contact in the socket then? my email is [redacted]

the wireing diagram is for a 2.2l non turbo engine mine is a 2.5 turbo engine would it be the same?

I'll double check.

Roger

Yes, they are the same. However I found another diagram I believe you will find easier to read. I'll send it to you.

Roger

Have you tried a new ASD Relay? It could be failing. Or:

I suggest you examine the ECM Connetors and terminal pins for corrosion or general condition. If no trouble found but the ECM still fails to energize the ASD reliably it may be time to consider a replacement ECM.

Roger

the asd relay was replaced just before you and i stared dealing with this problem , but i have not replaced it again, i guess i can try and buy another one and see if it fixes the problem. is it possible the new one was bad? i probably wont be able to work on it anymore untill monday, i wonder why it starts up just fine after you get it started , and then when it sets overnight it wont start

Another relay is not likely the answer. When you grounded the relay with your test light and it energized you provided a better ground than it had.

Check out the ground connections for the ECM or run a continuity test on the ground circuit for the relay with the relay and ECM disconnected. Should have about 0.5 ohms resistance or less. Higher reading would indicate a wiring problem.

Ensure the battery is fully charged.

Thinking out loud,

Roger

4:55 pm just started the car again first time sinse i shut it off about 1:30PM today i had to crank it for a 3 or 4 seconds turn off the key then turn it over again and then it started right up. im not going to try and start it again untill in the morning. i did hear the asd click and felt it energize when i just turn the key on , so hopefully it will be fixed will see. however i am going to chek the ecm connections at a later time, just dont have the time today or tomorrow to mess with. ill let u know .
Thanks for the help,
Tom

Thanks, I'll look forward to your findings.

Roger

fyi the car started no problem this morning!!!:) i think ill still check the connections at the ecm though. this is my daughters car want to make sure i can do all i can so i dont have to deal with this problem again.
Thanks,
Tom

This is the frustration technicians deal with often. If it starts it just passed every test known. When we write "No trouble found" on a repair order and charge a fee for our time no one is happy. Never mind how hard we looked or tried, money changes hands for what appears as a waste.

Look at those connections (with magnification if necessary) for any sign of deterioration evidenced as a color change or fit that is less than tight.

Your daughter will benefit to know where the ASD Relay is and become familiar with the fuses in the car.

Crossing my fingers,

Roger

1988 Chrysler LeBaron Ignition System   

Bought new battery and replaced starter but after initial few starts will not turn over

Hello, Did you have the alternator tested to see if it will keep the battery charged?

Do you have a battery charger to recharge the battery? It should recover all right.

Roger

It seems to have plenty of power. Could it be ignition switch?

Maybe...or, it could be the neutral safety start switch. Will it start in neutral?

Roger

No. Will not start in neutral. Just paid 390.00 last Thursday for new battery and starter. It stated about 4 times after that and now won't even turn over. Itried disconnecting neg. battery cabke, waiting and reconnecting but no luck.Doesn't this car have electronic ignition?

Yes, it does have electronic ignition.

When you say the engine will not turn over do you mean the starter turns the engine but it will not start?

Or, will the starter not even turn the engine?

What engine do you have the 2.2L or, the 2.5L?

Roger

The starter will not engage at all. It is not a matter of engine turning over and not firing.

The ignition switch energizes a start relay. When the relay closes the car will start if the trans is in Park or Neutral.

If power arrives at the starter solenoid wire but the starter doen't work the starter is bad.

If the power doesn't arrive at the solenoid, the start relay is bad.

I'll be away for awhile. If you must, release the question so that another tech can continue.

Roger

Roger

Your new starter may be bad. Check for voltage at the starters main terminal using a DC voltmeter (this confirms available voltage.) Then unhook the small wire to the starter and check for voltage available when the key is turned to the start position. Note- For both of these tests hook the negative lead of the voltmeter to known good engine ground.

If voltage is available and the starter doesn't work, the starter is bad.

Be sure to inpsect the battery cables, terminals, connections at starter, etc. as these could of been overlooked or not reinstalled properly.

Let me know what you find or if you need additional instructions on troubleshooting.

1988 Chrysler LeBaron Ignition System   

Car turns over but doesn't start. When key is turned I do hear the fuel pump run. If I check for spark from the coil wire I don't seem to have any but I do get about 8 volts on the positive side of the coil when cranking. Ran a wire from the battery + pole to the coil + post and the fuel pump runs but still no start. I replaced the dist cap, rotor and HEP sensor.

Hello,

Which engine do you have, 2.2 or 2.5L?

The first thing I want you to check is to see if the distributor rotor turns (remove cap and turn engine by hand or have an assistant bump the starter). This will check to see if the timing belt is turning the cam and distributor shaft.

Always check fuses when you experience electrical failure.

If these check okay I'll give instructions for checking trouble codes.

By the way, you do have about 12 volts (key on, engine not cranking) to the coil + ?

2.5L.

Yes the rotor turns when cranking engine.

There are no trouble codes except 12 55.

I was checking for +12v at the coil when cranking. I'll check with the key on.

Okay,

Check that you have Key On voltage to the coil and fuel injectors. The ASD relay provides voltage to these when the key is in the on (actually called 'run') position.

0 V at coil w/ key on ON position (not cranking).

Okay,

Feel the ASD (auto shutdown relay) when the key is turned on, you'll need an assistant. Does the ASD relay click? If not swap the relay (if you have a matching non-essential relay nearby) and see it starts. Give me an update.

Where is the ASD relay and which one is it? Are all of the relays the same and interchangable?

If the numbers on the relay are the same they are intrerchangeable.

The asd relay should have a Red, Dark Blue w-yellow, Dark Blue w-white, and a Dark Green w-black wires. I think this was mounted under the hood, fender area.

Can you be more specific than that? I have 2 or 3 metal boxes attached to the strut tower but I'm not sure if that is a relay or not.

Here is a link with a comparable picutre-

http://z.about.com/d/autorepair/1/0/b/G/[redacted] .gif

Copy and paste the link into your address bar.

By the way, did you check for initial key on voltage to the positive side of the injectors?

You may wish to test the coil with an ohm meter. Check the primary and secondary resistance and let me know the results.

"By the way, did you check for initial key on voltage to the positive side of the injectors?

Do I have injectors? Not sure where they are.

For the coil, should I check from post to post or post to output to distributor?

Hello,

You check both ways on the coil. One way is checking the primary (battery positive and negative circuitry of the coil) and the other (outpost) is checking the secondary function of the coil.

Visit autozone.com and register your car by entering Year, Make, Model and Engine. Then you can access a free online repair guide that'll give you test procedures for the coil along with images of the fuel injectors. Give me an update.

1987 Chrysler LeBaron Ignition System Won't Start When starting No pattern

This is a 4 cyl turbo. It cranks over but will not start=no spark. On occassion it will start and run 10 min. or so and die . Sometimes it will restart. The dash sometimes reads power loss. I can hear the fuel pump start when key is turned on. Replaced coil =same problem

A very common problem with these cars is the 'Hall Effect Sensor" They are easy to replace, about 5 or 10 min. Remove dist cap and rotor. Remove plastic sheild below rotor. The Hall unit below just lifts out.Unplug the wire and replace it with a new or used one.Notr: the turbo one is different than the non one. When installing it , note that the unit is indexed or notched, only goes in one way.If you decide on a used one, try to grab a spare, to keep in glovebox.I have owned both turbo and non turbo versions of this car and always had a spare on hand.
Bruce

1987 Chrysler LeBaron Heating / Cooling System   

My car heater works intermittently. The AC unit has been disabled completely by the garage, fan works, and temp adjustment works when the heater does work intermittently. Seems like I have a heat control valve sticking. Can you help without me having to get the manual so that I can trace the schematic of the climate control system? Thanks

Hi, Have you checked the coolant level? The engine will starve the heater core if it is as little as one quart low.

Look at the heater hoses under the hood. Do you find a heater water control valve in the supply line to the heater core? If so, has it become restricted or broken?

Consider back-flushing the heater core to address clogged tubes in the core.

Roger

Roger, thanks for the feedback, I will check the coolant level. Can you tell me if coolant follows the path through the expansion valve or is the coolant going through another set of lines. It looks like the expansion valve is the only path to the heater core and if the expansion valve is sticking, that too could be part of the problem. One other thing, I think I am loosing a little coolant through the head gasket, would some stop leak possibly fix that problem temporarily? Am I asking too many questions.

The expansion valve controls a/c freon flow rate and is independant of the heater system.

If you are losing coolant by way of a head gasket problem I do not recommend stop leak as a remedy. Not even a temporary one. A head gasket leak will need to be repaired very soon or coolant will mix with engine oil and destroy critical bearings.

Better decide if this car is a keeper. If it is you need to consider investing some serious money in the engine. It will likely fix the heater by default.

No, you are not asking too many questions...

Roger

Roger,
Thanks for the answers, really appreciate the help. I bought the car for my daughter to run for a while. Any idea of what the cost for a head job might run?

What size engine please?

Roger

Prepare your thinking to accept being told by a mechanic that this repair could go as far as a valve job. It will take some diagnostics to determine if it needs to go that far...but it might.

The head gasket can be replaced easy enough but things to consider while there are:

1.Are valve guides or seals worn out?
2.Are any valves damaged?
3.Is the head warped?

You could shop this job on the phone. A lot depends on the cost per labor rate hour in your area.

My estimate for this job ranges from $900 - $1500. Low end does not include a complete valve job, high end does.

Your thoughts?

Roger

Roger,

Thanks for all your help and advise, really appreciate it. I only paid $600 for the car and other than this head gasket issue being a concern, and the general aged look of the car, it is in pretty good shape and running condition. Being it's being driven by an 18 year old girl and she is pretty safe about her driving and is just glad to have something to get around in, I probably will just let her drive it until it dies. I'll put a compression check on it this weekend and from there make a final decision on what to do. Thanks again for all your help.

Bill

Bill, A compression test will clarify a lot for you. I hope the results are favorable.

Surely your good judgement will protect your daughter from all that comes with the reality of this car leaving her stranded.

Respectfully,

Roger

1987 Chrysler LeBaron Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

This one confuses me. About 6 months ago I pulled out from a light to the left. Not immediately, but maybe 1/2 mile down the road, the car started shaking like one of the front wheels were going to fall off. I could not go over 25 mph. It was that bad! I stopped, looked and tugged on both front tires, but could not feel or see anything wrong. I decided to try and drive to a local garage, but out of the blue the shaking stopped. It lasted maybe 2 miles. I've since had a blown head gasket, a bad catalytic converter and fuel injector’s problems which have been fixed. I also had it aligned and balanced at the same time. I’ve only been driving the car maybe a total of 45 days since all repairs. I have the average wheel “shakage” from what I would think, out of alignment or balance would feel (Nowhere near as bad as mentioned earlier). Also at low acceleration speeds (5-15mph) there is a rumble. I think from the driver’s side..? It is more predominant while steering to the right. While steering to the left there is nothing. While steering to the right worse acceleration, and to the left better acceleration. I know something is wrong somewhere, but I’m at a loss. HELP!!

Have the CV axles checked. CV axles usually make a noise when car steered one way. The rumbling sounds like the wheel bearing is worn out. Try tugging on tires with that corner of car jacked up with tire off ground.The bad shaking might have been due to a blown head gasket with coolant getting into cylinders.I am guessing it might have been cyl #3 or #4.A blown head gasket might have damaged the convertor.

The bad shaking was more of a side to side shake though... I'm convinced it was steering related...??

If you had an alignment then we can assume the steering was checked at the same time.
If it were a tire problem (tread separation etc. It would not be intermittent. A bearing can be a bit intermittent though.
87 Lebaron uses a sealed bearing/hub assy.that is not adjustable.
Often an alignment shop will do a free inspection, including the bearings

1986 Chrysler LeBaron Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction  Always

All work listed below was done by repair shops.
My problems began about a year ago when I began getting code 23 errors and the vehicle would not start. It gave symptoms of a clogged fuel filter or bad fuel pump. This was repaired with the discovery of a short in a wire going to the fuel injectors. At the same time, my heat sensor for the cooling fan circuit was replaced. Anew months later, the vehicle stopped charging. Another short was apparently discovered and repaired. That repair lasted a few weeks before it stopped charging again. The next fix was the replacement of the logic module, however, the first module put in was the wrong one (according to the mechanic) because it fixed the charging problem, but the air-conditioning circuit could no longer be controlled by the air condition switch on the dash. The pump activated whenever the fan was turned on regardless of the AC switch position. A new logic module was obtained and all worked as it should. This lasted about three months when it stopped charging again. The alternator was replaced and the new one did not work. Another alternator was put in and did work for about three weeks when the pulley broke off and took out all my belts. This alternator and the belts were replaced and the system worked perfectly for a week and then died again. Another new logic module was put in and the car worked perfectly for about 8 hours. It should be noted that all other electrical circuit items worked fine...lights, cooling system fan, AC, gauges, turn signals...everything. It just would not charge. After 8 weeks from the first of December until the end of January of trying to get it to work and stay working. (I had it off and on for about 2-3 days a pop each time he thought he had it solved...and, by the way, did not charge me anything for this entire period of time of trying to fix it. Also, all the replacement alternators and logic modules were also done on warranty at no charge.) Finally, he advised me the problem was too great for him and he referred me to an electrical. Cooling and AC repair shop. I took it in and got hit with another $300 plus bill to trace the problem and then to replace the power module. This was a couple of weeks ago and upon driving it, I began to notice strange sounds and all of a sudden my brand new belts started squeaking. I also noticed it seemed to run hotter when I got stuck in traffic. Checking, I discovered my cooling fan no longer worked, the clutch on my AC pump was sticking, and the fan switch regardless of the position of the AC on/off switch was once again activating the pump. I checked the fan relay fuse and it is OK. Is this a coincidence or should I be looking for birth control. By the way, the vehicle has only 80,000 actual miles on it.

You should have recourse at the shop that charged you the three hundred dollars. I don't believe they would want you unhappy. If they can't/won't fix it at no additional charge they should put your old parts back on and refund your money.

Are all of these alternators and power modules the same brand and from the same source respectively? Are they new or remanufactured parts?

Please advise,

Roger

All parts are new, the power module is OEM while the alternator is rebuilt from an auto parts supplier...I have no idea where the logic module is even installed, but it was installed by the first mechanic and one that I trust to be telling me the truth as he has already said if it fails, bring it back and I'll replace it for free.

Okay, I have problems in my area with certain brands of remanufactured alternators that have a one year warranty. I have replaced three in one year (same car) under the warranty on one year units.

Lifetime warranty reman units seem to pass higher quality control standards and cause fewer headaches.

I'm suggesting that the car go back where your money paid for a repair that just didn't last. You deserve satisfaction and I doubt they gave you a discount for guessing what to do. Deeper diagnostics may be needed to find the root cause of these failures.

Roger

1986 Chrysler LeBaron Fuel System   

This is a 2.2 Turbo. It has a new battery, new fuel pump, hoses, new fuel filter. Fuel is getting to the injectors but stops there and goes no further. It will start and run, but only if you keep pouring fuel into the injector bowl.

Sounds like a sticking or non functioning fuel pressure regulator. Also check the fuel bypass line back to the tank.Could be damaged, plugged or rusty (the last is most common for that year)

1982 Chrysler LeBaron Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Inherited a 92 Lebaron GTC with a battery drain. Know its a short but where to start looking? Loose cablrs/connectors in engine compaerment e.g one from starter or solinoid "60 PED", one from cluster passenger side horn is on, bright blue OEM female connector behind interior fuse block... One constant - when connected, headlamp hoods seem to have amind of their own; opening and closing periodically - maybe a Ghost?... Please email me - mburke@lcisp.com, nor much time for message threads... Sorry, but need heko from a pro.

Seems to be a common complain in a lot of your queries. Gotta be a common denominator there somewhere. The "dangling" connectors worry me, even though I know they build generic and not every model uses every connecting. None of the layman tech manuals have schematices worth squat, and none of the dealers or privates mech's really look. Know where I can find a decent set of schematics w/o paying throug the nose for a shop manual? Ever thought of adding color coded, graphically "simple" (for shade tree mech's), to your product line/site? Net you'd make a fortune - nichr market - have looked - no one has hit on the idea yet. Can think of three I'd need asap - interior fuse block I/O's, audio systems, and OBC interfaces... Or - you could just hire me to start creating a library... I' dumb enough to be able to listen, hear, inderstand, and illustrate for do-it-yourselfer's like me. That's the advantage to not metriculationg from fotmal training - I'm fumb rnough to know that I can do it myself - if - I have access to the resources everyone is hoarding... :-)

Maddog

khat size engine do you have and what you need would be a schematic to trace down all of the wires with circuitry.
If you want I will email one to you at the email you provided or another of your choice
I hope this helps

3 liter engine and if you could mail me the schematic I'd give you my 1st born son, or puppy, depends on this new aftershave.... :-)

ok sending it soon

let me know if you got the ones I sent my mistake on the year Sending more from 1982

1979 Chrysler LeBaron Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always 

Map light is stuck on (switch is ok) - disconnected wire from back. Also, no dome or reading lights, stop lights, left/right signals not flashing - emergency flasher and headlights only work on the front of the car. Door button is ok (buzzer shuts of when door is closed)

I can help you with the rear lighting on your vehicle. As far as the dome, reading and map lights, it could be from the headlight switch assy.
The taillight problem sounds like a break in the wiring under the vehicle. Being an older Chrysler product, you will most likely find the harness around the rear
axle broken. I would check the wiring from the plug under the driver's area back to the rear lamp assemblies.

This is a freebie. Check all the harness. Use a probe and check it a varied distance. If you have continuity, then keep going to the back. Sooner or later you
will find a break. Make sure that you match color to color when splicing these wires back together. The turn signals are yellow and green. The taillights are a brown
wire.

Good Luck.

Bill

Here is what I have done before I got your response:

I replaced the thermal flasher module and the blinkers are now flashing in the front of the car only. The map light seems to be ok and it turns it self of now after the door is closed. But the dome, reading, and door lights don't turn on when the door is opened. Must be an open wire somewhere?

Rear lights: The tail lights do turn on when then headlights are on. I noticed one harness plug in the trunk, which is connected. I'll follow the wire to the headlight switch to look for any breaks in the signals and brake wires.

Question reopened at Syed's request,

Thanks,

All-Parts.com, All-Parts Admin

I still think it is in the rear lamp harness. There is either a broken wire or bad connector or bad ground.

Check the harness with a probe. Start at the front connector, if you have power, keep moving towards the back, until you don't have power. Then work back forward until you find the problem.

The switches in the doors cause the dome, reading and door lights to come on. If you will the switch from the door, check it for power. If you have power, you need to clean or replace the door switch. If not, then you might check the headlight switch. It can short at the door dimmer section of the switch. You can usually look at the switch, and look to see if the dimmer reostat is working or not.

Those are my suggestions. Good luck.