Chrysler Town & Country

1999 Chrysler Town & Country Heating / Cooling System   

Diver side and rear heat not working, but passenger side works fine. I have taken the temperature controller apart and the working temp slider measures 2.5 kohm in the center dropping to zero at each end. The top slider controls both the driver and rear heat and it seems to measure the same.

Most likely your problem is in the actuator motor. Each temperature blend door has its own actuator motor, and they are common failure items.

What is the easiest way to confirm that the motor is at fault?

How does this motor affect the rear heat?

The problem started about a month ago and resolved itself in a couple days only to happen again this week.

I was taking the kids word that the back was not heating. I just went out to confirm it and it is heating fine.

What is the easiest way to access the front driver motor that we suppose is stuck?

I would crawl under the dash with the key on and engine off. I would look at the passenger side while changing the knob from hot to cold, find the motor and then compare on the drivers side. Listen also to the drivers side and see if it makes any noise, or if it is dead. Even if it makes noise, the gears could be stripped. Remove it and see if the door moves smoothly, if the temperature changes when swithcing the door. If so, the problem is all in the external electrical details.

1998 Chrysler Town & Country Ignition System Stalling When starting When warm 

This happens intermittently. The car will start run for a few seconds and then shut down. It so this about 3 or 4 times. then it will turn over but not start. It then must sit for 24 hours before it will start again. It has been happening about once every 2 weeks. It only happens when I run the car. Turn it off for a short time (like a stop at the grocery store). When a try to start it again it does won't run.

Hello, What size engine do you have? Do you have a check engine light on when it runs and are driving?

Has fuel pressure been checked during the "no start" condition? What is it? Does spark at the spark plugs happen during the "no start" condition? Has the vehicle been checked for diagnostic trouble codes? What are they?

Please advise, I'll try to help.

Roger

I have a 3.8 L engine. I have had the car checked by several different mechanics. They say there are no codes. I don't know if they checked for fuel pressure or spark. I assume they did all those things since 2 of the mechanics had it for an extended period of time. They both said it runs perfect.

Did the mechanics experience the symptom as you described it to me?

We are really in for a guessing game if the condition was not duplicated.

When a vehicle has been driven and shut off for a short time (like a stop at the grocery store) that time period is referred to as a "Hot Soak". The mechanic has the responsibility of duplicating the complaint before a proper and cost controlling diagnosis can be made.

It's no fun hanging around in the customer waiting area but if a mechanic cannot duplicate the complaint maybe the shop foreman can. If you feel comfortable with the shop personnel, have them drive it home overnight, or to lunch, or make them start it up 1/2 hour after you arrive so you can witness their effort.

I can't over state the importance of duplicating the complaint condition.

How do you want to proceed?

Roger

My mechanic drove it home for 2 weeks, he did not duplicate the problem. When I got it back it happened the next time I drove it. He is scratching his head. And he knows I don't have the money to start replacing things until the problem goes away.

One can reason that without duplicating the complaint your patience will be tested continually.

We need to establish a pattern of use. We need a baseline. Does weather have an effect? Are the battery connections clean and tight?

Try to log the elapsed time and miles driven before you turned the vehicle off and then encountered the problem when attempting to re-start. How long was the "hot soak" period? Did the starter turn the engine at normal cranking speed? Any fumes present? Exhaust smoke?

Note how much fuel is in the tank. Does parking on a hill or with one side of the vehicle higher than the other factor in? What accessories were in use when you shut the vehicle off?

It's all about finding enough information to ensure how to set your minivan up so there is reason to believe the condition will present itself for diagnosis.

I don't have a better suggestion that will control your cost. You can pay to have some tests run (for information) but an engine that starts and runs well and has no codes is not the one to be "working" on.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

I replaced both the battery terminals. No check engine light on. As far as weather I live in Florida it is always hot always in the 90"s and I run the air and the radio. Which I leave on when I turn the car off. When the failure happens the alarm light always remains on. The dealer said it couldn't be the security system because if so it would set off the alarm with flashing lights and horn. When the failure happens it starts as usual, sounds the same as always. There are no hills here I am always fairly level.

I'm going to look for technical service bulletins today.

What does the Owner's Manual say is the normal operation of the security/alarm light?

Back today ASAP.

Roger

You stated when the failure happens the alarm light remains on...
What is the text of the warning, ie., "SECURITY", "THEFT", etc?

I'm looking into the possible differences between alarm function and security system operation.

Thanks,

Roger

Do you have a fax number? Will a cover sheet be needed to get a fax to your attention?

The VEHICLE THEFT SECURITY SYSTEM (VTSS) monitors vehicle doors, hood, trunk key cylinder and ignition for unauthorized operation/entry. When alarm is triggered, the horn will sound for three minutes and the parking lights will flash for 15-18 minutes.

How do you lock/unlock your doors?

You see it's possible that even though the alarm is not sounding off the system may have a defective switch or circuit connection that alerts the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to not allow the fuel injectors to work. Remember, you said the alarm light stays on when the condition is present.

If the condition happens again, try locking and unlocking the doors with your key fob or power lock control button. See if that will reset the VTSS and allow the vehicle to start.

Since a "hot soak" is what usually results in the problem I suspect the hood switch may have trouble. It gets really hot under the hood from radiant heat after you shut the engine off.

Think it over, the problem is the STARTING of the engine - not the running of the engine. THE ALARM LIGHT IS ON. Theft deterrant is providing a false signal and I believe that is the root of the problem.

Did the mechanic that drove your van home put it in his garage and not lock it?

Roger

Roger

I have tried using both the key and the unlock button. It word it says is alarm set. It usually lights up on the dash along with the other red lights like the check engine light and the oil light, they will go off in a couple of seconds. But when it fails the light remains on.

OK. When you use the key or the manual lock button on each/any door to LOCK the van you bypass the security system. The van is locked but the alarm is not set.

When locking the vehicle using the key fob or the power lock switch the van locks and after 18 seconds the alarm sets.

If you unlock the van using the key there is a switch actuated by the lock cylinder or latch linkage that is supposed to turn the alarm off at the same time the door unlocks.

When you unlock and open the door do you ever hear the horn sound three times? That is a signal that the alarm has detected an attempt made to tamper with the van. If you never hear this "three beeps" horn signal, but you DO see that the ALARM SET light is remaining on, it is the security system that allows the engine to turn by the starter but will not permit the fuel injectors to operate. No fuel--no start.

To reset and then try again to turn the security system alarm off:

1. Turn the key off. 2. Lock the doors electrically (you can remain inside or roll down the window for access). 3. Close all doors. 4. Wait the 18 seconds for the alarm to set. 5. Unlock with van the key fob or using the key in either front door. 6. Turn the key on and wait for the warning lights to go off. 7. Try again to start the engine.

A technician will need to use Chrysler's diagnostic scanner to test all Body Control Module (BCM) inputs to see if they transmit commands to the computers properly. The condition will need to be present to accurately diagnose the failure of the VTSS to disarm.

Do you have a fax number?

Roger

I don't have a fax number but if it is really important let me know and I will get my fathers fax number. When I open the door there is no horn sounding 3 times. Today I tested your 7 steps to reseting the alarm system and I induced the problem to happen,. It sarted for a second and died and would'nt resart. I am really frustrated.

Be encouraged that you have found a way to induce the problem. That is exactly what a technician needs to start diagnosing the complaint. Show him what happens. Remember, he said it runs great (we know that), you said it won't start, he needs to see that!

What did you do to get the engine to finally start?

The fax number will keep. I was going to send you the info I found in the data base to boost your confidence that I'm not just guessing how the system works. I'm offering the best of the information my researh has produced.

Take hold of the method to bypass the alarm when locking the van. Using this method is not convenient but shouldn't permit the symptom to even occur. Until you get a chance to show the repair shop the problem first hand it should position you to avoid a long delay in getting the van to restart after a "hot soak".

When you use the key or the manual lock button on each/any door to LOCK the van you bypass the security system. The van is locked but the alarm is not set.

Roger

It is not starting again today. It usually takes 24 hours to resart.

Will no action on your part disarm the alarm? i.e. cycling the power locks with the key fob remote, the power lock switch, or even manually unlocking both front doors with the key?

Roger

No I have not been able to find a way to make it sart before its time. I have tried all those things you mentioned.

You may be in need of a new Body Control Module (BCM) but only a data scan with Chrysler's Diagnostic Scan Tool will verify the need.

Right now, -when it won't start- is when a technician that knows how to use the scanner properly can find the cause of the trouble.

Will you be able to get your van to the technician and again induce the problem for him? It sounds to me like if you can and will do that, he has as much as 24 hours to get to the cause before time will stop his oportunity. I hope you can be there when it won't start. Then you can know they have seen the problem duplicated and the effect.

You should not be charged for repairs that do not correct what you have specifically shown the problem to be and how to induce it.

Roger

I hope I can induce the problem again. It seems I did because it usually only fails when it is hot this time it was cool and had been sitting for a couple of days when the problem happened that is why I think I induced the problem. I will only know once I can get it started again. What does the body control module do? and What about the Powertrain control module that you mentioned earlier in our comunication has that now been ruled out?

I still have the task of discovering whether or not the VTSS module is incorporated inside the BCM.

The body control module is part of the junction block located under the left side of the instrument panel. The BCM stores odometer information for electronic instrument cluster display and provides power and ground for a variety of systems.

The BCM is the only module that has the capabilty of providing both "bias" and "termination" on the Chrysler Collision Detection (CCD) bus system. Systems are monitored by the BCM through voltage drops.

The CCD bus is a pair of twisted wires traveling from module-to-module receiving and delivering coded information. The code identifies the message and it's importance.

The vehicle may be equipped with either a premium or a base model BCM. Base body control computer is used on vehicles with a mechanical instrument cluster.

When "Armed" the Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS) module will signal the Powertrain Control Module that it is NOT ok to start the engine if an unauthorized entry is "detected". It sends this signal via CCD or PCI bus that interconnects these modules. The PCM then "zeros out" the pulse width of the fuel injectors, thus preventing the engine from starting (start/stall condition). The engine will not start until the VTSS is disarmed.

The PCM is doing what it is supposed to do when it is "told" an unauthorized entry has been detected. (falsely triggered or real event) That rules out the PCM as a cause source. It is part of the domino effect that was created by a VTSS signal.

Roger

Alright I will try to get the car started over the weekend and see if I can induce the problem again. If so Then I will take the car back to the mechanic and give him all the info I have discovered and go from there. Is there anything else I need to tell the mechanic? about the different modules?

The mechanic should know about all the different modules involved and by using the Chrysler Diagnostic Scan Tool, he should be able to check each one for proper command and response feedback signals.

Here's hoping for a positive experience.

Roger

Hello, May I have the courtesy of an update on the status of this question please?

Thanks,

Roger

I haven't taken the van to the mechanic as of yet, because it has not failed again.

Thank you for the reply. I'm here to help if I can.

Roger