Dodge Dakota Pick-up

2004 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Fuel System   

My Dakota will not take fuel properly.The fuel nozzel keeps kicking off even though the tank is only 1/4 full. This has occured each time I tried to fuel-up at various stations. It is very annoying??? The truckis in mint condition with 20,000 miles. Your thoughts, Thank you gil-kay@cox.net

Hi, Do you have better success by backing out the fuel nozzle about half way?

Roger

Yes, I've had years of experience working at a gas station. I've tried the nozzel at all angles and depths. Could there be check valve in the filler tube to prevent fuel loss in the event of a roll over ??
Thanks

I called the local Dodge dealership to inquire about Technical Service Bulletins and they stated there are none on this issue.

There is a ball in the filler neck that floats up to block flow in a roll over. The filler neck may have to be removed to see where the trouble is. It could be a tank issue or in the filler neck itself.

If you work on this yourself, or take it to a mechanic I recommend having the tank as near empty as tolerable to prevent spills.

Roger

This is usually a problem with the tank vent (fuel in air needs to exit). Which engine do you have, I'll see what I can find on this problem.

Hi,
The engine is a 4.7 V/8 This probelm started suddenly.
I looked underneath. There is a rubber sleeve which connects the filler tube to the fuel tank as well as a rubber vent line.

2003 Dodge Dakota Pick-up All Part Groups   

My dodge dakota is having an engine vibration. I can feel the vibration in the truck and when the hood is opened the vibration is very noticable. There is no loss of power, no check engine light, and it drives fine. It doesnt seem to have the vibration when the truck is moving at any speed, only when at a complete stop or in park. I have checked hoses, changed spark plugs, changed air filter, and put in fuel injector cleaner and none of these has helped the problem. Any ideas on what the problem may be??

You need to take a look at your motor mounts and your transmission mounts.
It sounds like they can be your problem
you can have someone to hold the brake and set the parking brake, start the car and shift from forward to reverse and look at the movement of the engine.

I hope this helps

2001 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Windows / Glass   

On my driver side door I am unable to roll up the window. any step by step instructions for manual window problems

Hi, Do you feel resistance to the manual mechanism when you attemp to raise the glass? Is it stuck? Gear stripped?

It may need a window regulator replaced.

Roger

Any news here?

Roger

1999 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

My "low beam" headlights will not work. I have parking lights, fog lights, and when I pull on the "high beam/turn signal lever" the high beams come on but will not stay on. I have replaced the headlight switch itself, but it's still the same thing.

How long does this take?

Sorry for the delay.

Are you saying both high and low beams are out, unless you are pulling on the lever? Do you have flash to pass?

neither head lights are on. I can pull the high beam lever and the high beams come on. I can flash the high beams, but they don't stay on.

as soon as I release the lever, the high beams go out. someone told me this could be a relay problem. Do you know where I can get a wiring diagram?

I will check to see if there is one available online.

YOu can view a diagram but it takes a few steps.

Visit the following library site which offers repair guides-

http://www.bedlib.org/ebsco.html

Then click on the "ARRC/ AUTO REPAIR" banner to be taken to a repair guide that contains wiring diagrams for the headlights (there are a few headlight systems so it will be much easier if you access the database yourself).

OK, I have the schematics. Do you have any idea of what the problem is?

My first guess would be the dimmer switch, but you'll need to check the circuit. Make sure to verify fuses and grounds.

Fuses and things seem to be okay, checked them with a meter.

Okay move on to the dimmer switch. Remember you need power and ground.

1998 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Chassis / Suspension & Steering Making Noise When turning Always

I have had my 98 Dakaota since new it has 79k miles and has been one of the most dependable vehicles I have ever owned. When making a low speed turn (both left and right) from a stop I get a low pitched grinding sound. I think that it may be coming from the rear end, but can be sure. The dealer says everything is tight and checks out.

The sound probably is coming from the rear differential or axles. I assume any concerns with the brakes and wheel bearings have been ruled out.

Could you further describe the noise? At what speed does the sound start and stop? Does the sound only occur if starting from a complete stop? This is clearly a grinding type sound and not a rattle, etc? I use this information and check to see if there is any tech chatter on the problem.

Sir,

I have only noticed this from a complete stop. Almost always happens when I am at a stop sign and turning (either direction). It is more of a gring than a rattle. It is a low pitch (like a deep bass sound) that can be "felt" through the truck. I tend to believe that it is coming from the rear, but can not be sure.

1998 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Fuel System   

What is the proper reading for the fuel system, reading injection, reading for the pistons, computer reading, and timing belt reading?

Hello, In order to answer your question I need to understand what you want to know?

Proper reading for fuel system..do you mean the desired fuel pressure?

Reading injection...? I don't understand this part.

Reading for pistons...do you mean desirable compression test results?

Computer reading...? What do you want to know here?

Timing belt reading..? Tension setting? Maintenance interval?

I need some help here please,

Roger

1998 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Truck will not start. Battery appears to be okay. Ends of battery cables appeared corroded so I replaced the terminal connections at the posts. When you turn the key slight clicking sound and then nothing. Headlites do not come on at all. Could it be the battery cables themselves? Dome light is bright except when you turn on headlites then it goes dim and there is no headlite.

Have you tested the battery? Sounds like a poor connection or low voltage. Will the truck jump start?

Roger

It would not jump start.

If it won't even jump start the battery is suspect. What voltage reading does the battery have on a multimeter?

Roger

How are you doing with this one? Please advise.

Thanks,

Roger

1998 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

1998 dakota sport V6 magnum. Replaced front rotors and pads, something in the steering feels a little loose when turning cornners, did not feel this before replacing rotors and pads.

Hello, Did you pack the wheel bearings and set their preload torque? Install new grease seals?

Roger

Are you there? What's up?

Roger

1998 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Fuel System   

does not start. It runs if I pour gas in carborator but when the gas runs out it stalls out and dies

With a helper at the (removed) gas cap, turn the key on and off.Your helper should listen for a hum at the gas filler.
No hum, usually requires a new fuel pump.
First check fuel pump fuse and filter.
If unsure about filter, remove it and perform the same key on off scenario, watching for fuel at the filter line.
No fuel...again suspect the fuel pump.

I changed the fuel pump and it started, but now the "check engine" light is on and the truck runs rough

Sometimes if you disconnect the battery for a few minutes the computer resets itself.If not then scan for codes.New filter helps as does injector cleaner.

1997 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Ignition System   

Trying to retrieve the codes, the code reader shows "connected", when I turn the key on to retrieve the codes, "not connected" shows up on the screen. The motor was recently replaced, but not getting any spark. The vehicle sat for 2 years before replacing the motor. Is the "not connected" a sign of a bad computer? Thanks Steve

Let's not start with that. First, the computer should be turned off when the key is off, and on when the key is on.

There are only 3-4 wires at the connector that are used for the code reader, power (full time), ground and data. Your code reader seems to indicate connectedness without the data, which implies either your ground or your power are failing when the key is turned on.

Since the truck has been unused for such a long time, start with removing and cleaning the battery, engine and body grounds. Look at the other power connectors near the battery. If that does not resolve the issue, use a test light to check which fuses are hot with the key off, then check if any loose power when the key is turned on.

Thanks for the quick reply. I tried the code reader in my wifes 1996 Dodge Caravan. With the key off and the code reader on (AutoXray mdl 1500) it showed "connected", when I turned the key on, the reader read "connected" and read the codes. That's why I thought maybe the computer.
Steve

I believe we have a power or ground issue. Look there first.

1996 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Engine Stalling When driving No pattern

Loses oil pressure and sometimes stalls. as soon as I push the gas pressure comes back up and it does it randomly after I push the clutch in.

Does this only happen at idle rpm's? If it does start by cleaning the idle speed motor and its passageway along with the throttle body and blade.

at regular idle it runs fine. It will happen when you first push in the clutch after having it in gear. If you push the gas it idles right up and pressure shows it comes up. Should I still try the 1st thing you suggested? Thanks

It is good maintenance, so yes give it try. Also disconnect the negative battery cable to reset the computer (called a PCM).

Do you hear engine noise when the oil pressure drops? If you have no oil pressure you'll hear it. It is possible that the engine rpm's become low enough that oil pressure does not register. Let's start with what I've said so far then we'll go from there if necessary.

1996 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Heating / Cooling System   

How do you determine if the blower motor is inoperable or the fan switch and how do you change the blower motor

The first step will be to check fuses. Next check to see if you have KEY ON battery positive voltage to the blower motor connector, with the selector set on HIGH. If you have voltage available and the fan does not operate, the blower motor is bad and will need replacing.

Copy and Paste the following link into your Address Bar for removal and installation instructions-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/10/09/5[redacted] 0957.jsp

1995 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Fuel System   

when I go to start my 1995 dodge dakota truck 4x4 it cranks over sometimes it starts right up and then other times it will not start, but always cracks over not sure what the problem is.

Listen to see if the fuel pump is priming when you first turn the key on (for a couple seconds. This is the humming/buzzing sound from the fuel tank. If this is not happening let me know (during the no-start period).

If the pump does run we will assume you have fuel pressure. Try holding the accelerator to the floor and see if the engine starts more quickly. If not, check for spark. Let me know what you find.

thanks for the indication, is it accurate, I hope it is, because I hear no buzzing or humming noise from gas tank

Just to be sure we are clear on this, you are hearing the noise when the vehicle will start? You should be.

Now check trouble codes. Do this by turning the Key ON, Off, On, Off, and On again (three times within five seconds). Now watch the check engine light. It will begin to flash. The flashes indicate diagnostic trouble codes as follows:

Flash Flash (ones place) + Flash Flash Flash (tens place)= 2 & 3 for code 23.

There will be a longer pause in between codes. It make take a few tries to get it.

Let me know which troulbe codes you find. If there is a code for the ASD Relay, this should be an easy fix.

Also confirm if there is spark to the plugs during the no start period.

1995 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Ignition System   

1995 dakota, no spark, new p/u coil,ignition coil,computer,fuses are good. may be unrelated but brake light don't work.

Hello, Do you have power to the ignition coil on the Dk Grn/Blk wire?

If you need a wiring diagram please advise by providing your email address. Also, confirm your engine size.

Thanks,

Roger

yes 4 cyl

yes i have 12v

Okay, 4Cyl. Since you have power to the ignition coil (the 4 cyl wire color is Dk Grn/Org) that means the auto shut down relay is energized...fuse must be good.

Do you have fuel pressure? Does the fuel injector have power on the Dk Grn/Org wire?

Disconnect the MAP sensor electrical connector. Does the engine start?

Have you tried a different coil wire?

Roger

i have power at the injectors don't know what a map sensor is

The MAP sensor is probably on the firewall. It will have a vacuum hose coming from the intake manifold and an electrical connector with three wires. A Dk Grn/Red, a Blk/Lt Blu, and a Vio/Wht.

Roger

i unplugged it but it won't start

All right. Have you tried a different coil wire from the coil to the distributor?

Roger

no i would have to go get one. all the wire were replaced about 6 months ago, not that it matters

Do you have an OHM meter? Can you measure the resistance of the coil wire removed from the vehicle?

Roger

yes when i check one end to the other the needle barely moves.

We need more than 10K Ohms.

Did you replace the rotor inside the distributor?

How did this all begin?

Roger

i have not replaced the rotor since the wires. it ran fine coming home from work. i was going to go to the store about 4 hours after i drove it last and it would not start. at first i thought it might be out of gas because it was so low. i put 2 gal in but didn't help. i then pulled a plug and saw that i had no spark

Can you remove the dist cap, crank the engine and verify the distributor is turning?

Roger

yes it is turning i was worried about the timing belt being broke

Can you create an air gap by holding the coil wire 1/4" above the dist tower so you may see spark from the coil to the distributor when the engine cranks? Of course the other end of the coil wire would be connected to the coil...

Be careful to avoid a shock!

Roger

no spark

Do you have a digital multi-meter? Its time to see if the pick-up coil is producing voltage when the distributor turns.

I'm hoping for more than o.1 volts while cranking.

Roger

no i don't

Okay, you replaced the camshaft sensor aka the pick-up coil in the distributor. Let's believe it to be a good one.

Look for a crankshaft sensor on the transmission bellhousing on the driver's side.

This sensor has to output a signal too for there to be spark. There is a pigtail connector near the rear of the intake manifold that runs down to the sensor. Disconnect the sensor connector.

With an OHM meter set on 1K-10K scale test the sensor connector terminals B to C. The reading should be open (infinate resistance). If you get a low resistance reading replace the sensor.

Roger

i have a manual transmission with a group of wires that plug in back by the tail shaft on the driver's side. is that it

i unplugged the wires at the transmission an oil is leaking out of the sensor where the wires plug into it

The crankshaft sensor is shown in the data base to be on the left side of the bell housing. Not at all near the tailshaft housing.

Did you find a wiring connector near the rear of the intake manifold with the pigtail routed down toward the bell housing?

I can send you a drawing if you'll advise your email addy.

Roger

i found the problem. i have a bad connector in the wiring harness so i cut it out and added a jumper wire and it started right up. thanks for narrowing it down for me.

Great job! Please accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me. You may do this by closing the question or click on the OK TO PAY THE MECHANIC button.

I thank you,

Roger

1995 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Engine   

We have a1995 dakota 4x4 with a 3.9 v6 and the passanger side exhaust manifold cracked just in front of the rear sparkplug we had a licenced mech.replace it ,and ayear and half later the new one is cracked in the exact same spot,now I think I can do the the job,but I am scared about braking the manifold bolts,how can I make sure I dont brake these bolts,and yes the motor mounts are fine.

Hi, There is no way you can be sure a bolt holding an exhaust manifold will not break off.

You do have knowledge that these bolts were installed 18 months ago instead of over 13 years ago. That in itself is an advantage especially if the mechanic who installed them tightened the bolts to manufacturer's specs.

The bolts holding the header pipe to the manifold can be sprayed with penetrating oil to aid their removal.

Use 6 point sockets where ever possible on the boltheads to limit the risk of damaging them. I don't recommend air tools for bolt removal unless you first loosen the torque manually and can tell by feel that the bolts turn without binding.

Roger

Hi, and thank you for getting back to me about the exhaust manifold bolts, now my next question is,this is the 2nd time this manifold has cracked and in the same exact spot,and the motor mounts are fine,could a plugged catilytic converter be doing this? The truck is nice and quiet and the exhaust sounds ok,but how do I tell?

I submit that perhaps the exhaust system needs realigned. It's possible there is stress causing the failure.

And more importantly the torquing of the bolts needs to be uniform.

I looked for a technical service bulletin on this subject and found none. No recalls apply.

Roger

1994 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Engine Stalling When driving No pattern

My Dakota 318 stalls intermittently when I remove my foot from the gas to coast. Idle drops quite low and then sometimes recovers or stalls. It will happen for a period of time then goes away. Then the problem comes back. Problem seems to be more prevalent when someone else drives the truck. Any Ideas? Should I try replacing Throttle Position Sensor?

The first thing you should do is clean the throttle body and idle speed motor pintle and its passageway.

If the problem persists it may be TPS. I'd first rule out the possibility of an egr that is occasionaly hanging open. The way to confirm or eliminate a problem with the egr is to temporarily disconnect the controls to the it while the engine is running okay. If the problem doesn't reappear with the egr disconnected it is likely the problem. This is of course tricky as your problem is intermittent. This is why I've tried to offer things that don't require spending money- first.

If the check engine light comes on while the engine is running let me know as this changes diagnosis.

1994 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Ignition System   

I have a 1994 Dodge Dakota. About one year ago my son had the truck at school some 200 miles away and one morning it wouldn't crank, turn over, or anything. A mechanic came and towed the truck and said it needed a complete tune-up, which he did for some $350. This included plugs, wires, distbutor cap, coil, and towing fee. The truck cranked fine until my son came home from school, and all of a sudden it would not crank, again, nothing at all, the start didn't turn, no clicks, nothing. My local mechanic came to tow the truck, and of course it cranked with no problem. He took it to the shop, however, with it cranking for several day. He "suspected" the crank sensor needed replacing, yes, another $350 or so.

We replaced the fuel pump and filter about one and a half years ago.

Again, we brought the truck home and it cranked fine for several months. Then this past October, it decided not to crank, so we called another mechanic, and of course when he came to tow it, it cranked with no problem. He kept the truck some 4 months, 6 months, supposedly cranking and driving it every day with no problems. He did replace the neutral switch hoping that would be the problem. I then drove the truck home some 30 miles away, and my son and I drove the truck locally for about two weeks, so my son drove the truck to work some 30 miles away. Then again, when he left work, the truck wouldn't crank. Absolutely nothing happened, no starter turn, no nothing. The truck stayed at his work place for a few days and still wouldn't crank or turn over, when he and a buddy decided for some reason to "rock" the truck, shaking it somewhat, and it cranked. Now this has happened a few times but doesn't always work. We finally got the truck home this morning by this method.

I'm frustrated that our local mechanics cannot find the problem, but they tell me that as long as it's cranking, they can't determine the cause. I'm no mechanic, but it also seems that it's got to be electrical, either something loose, grounding, or maybe the ignition switch.

I apologize for the lengthly explanation, but I'm desperate, as I need this truck and cannot afford a new vehicle.

Thanks,

Charles

Hi Charles,
It is very important to know why it is not cranking.A test done by the auto mechanic would indicate WHY.I would like to know if it is a "power" of 12 volts coming to the starter solenoid when cranking.This test will explain what's the problem.
Peter
ps:Auto technicianfor over 30 years.

Thanks,
It's the standard battery. The mechanics cannot tell why it's not cranking because it's cranked every time they have had it other than when they assumed it's the crank sensor

Hi,

Next you should one test on your own:
Remove a wire frim ignition coil and try to start the vehicle 20 times.That it will indicate a intermitent problem.
Regards,
Peter

1994 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Fuel System   

I was driving my truck thru standing water shortly after that it died and wouldn't start back up. i know that I'm not getting any fuel pressure iv'e checked the fuses and relays iv'e also checked for voltage at the fuel pump it's ok iv'e replaced the fuel pump still won't start. also i can here a high pitch sqeal coming from the computer, and I also checked the connector at the fuel pump. I'm stumped ?

Sounds like the water short circuitrd something! Best to let it dry out a few days, then test to see if any codes are present.Also test for spark at the plugs.The squealing from the computer is not good.It might be damaged.

1994 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have a 1990 Dodge dakota 5speed, however the engine is a 1994 (bought it this way). The truck has been extreamly remarkable but i had a friend install a factory radio and ever since then several things happen. First the turn signals will not owrk unless you have your foot on the break and manuall flick the lever, also the radio works maybe 3 times a year. All fuses have been replaced, all radio wiring has been checked for shorts and the little round silver botton like looking thing has been replaced. What else can i do w/o taking it in and having it put on a computer for diagnostics? Also where do i find a list of codes and how do you pull them for this vehicle>?

Hello, When a vehicle shows electrical problems right after (and since) a device is installed the best thing to do is uninstall the device and see if the former status is restored.

Roger

How are you doing with this one? Please advise.

Thanks,

Roger

1994 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Engine   

im not getting any spark and i change the rotor cap coil wires and plugs. i cheked all the fuses and im still getting no spark. my next step is to replace the crank position sensor. anything else i should try before doing that

The crank position sensor is a good bet...also carefully check the grey wire going to that sensor, as I have seen a few short out.

ya its weird cause the only thing i did was replace the water pump the it would not start

Did you try checking trouble codes?

Turn the key on/off on/off and on again (3 times with 5 seconds). The check engine light will begin to flash.

flash pause flash flash- indicates code 12. That is 1 flash for the 'tens' place and 2 flashes for the 'ones' place.

There will be a longer pause between codes.

flash flash flash pause flash flash= code 32.

If you lose track simply turn the key off and start over.

Which trouble codes did you find?

Also, which engine?

Never overlook fuses & battery cables, grounds, etc when you experience electrical failure.

The previous information assume the check engine light come on with key on, as it normally does.

1994 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Fuel System   

My truck will stop running suddenly without warning,ill let it sit for 15-20 seconds then it restarts only to die again shortly thereafter.The fuel pump and the ignition switch have been replaced on it.What is the problem? 1994 dodge dakota

Hello, The crankshaft position sensor may be failing. What engine does this Dakota have please?

Roger

3.9L V-6

The crankshaft position sensor (CKP) is bolted to the cylinder block near rear of right cylinder head, at bellhousing of transmission.

Disconnect CKP sensor connector pigtail from main wiring harness. Measure resistance across CKP Sensor wiring connector terminals B & C. Replace CKP if any resistance is exists.

Roger

1994 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Fuel System   

I am looking for the female end off of the wiring harness that plugs into the top of the fuel pump. mine is no good,dealer says part is obselete,they say it is different than other years.Do u have any suggestions or a line on where I might find a used one. Every thing around here gets crushed, just can't find one. Truck is in good shape and runs good. HELP!!!!

Unfortunatly there are none avail.Hard to get a wrecker to sell one...too small.
There are many aftermarket pumps (incl on ebay) that have the plug included. Hope you can return the pump you have.

1993 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Ignition System Won't Start Happens always 

no electric to coil??? no spark at coil??

Hate to say this but mopar has directed almost everything thru the computer. The voltage regulator, injector control, spark timing .. all thru the computer. See if you can find one to install for testing (junk yard) and installation. These cost about 300. Good luck.. AL

1993 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Fuel System Won't Start When starting Always

Had wiring connection repaired in 2003. Mechanic said someone did not fix properly before and a wire (B+ ?) had shorted out. It weas running but I left it sit out for two weeks while on vacation and it will not pump gas from tank now. Could moisture have shorted the pump connection or relay out. How can I check the pump w/o dropping it ?

Hi;
Look at the gas tank. Next to it coming in should be a connector. Can't really remeber what color wire it is, but it should be a either green or blue. Please don't quote me on this. One wire will have a pulsating signal, this wire is your sending unit. The other one will have 12 volts to it this will be your fuel pump hot wire. The other one is the ground and will not have any power to it. Good Luck Les.

thanks for the reply and that will help, however ,to throw a curve, someone has a yellow wire running from the relay under the hood up to the top of the tank (I cannot see where to) do you think this odd wire would be hot or ground ? I know it,s tough but maybe you might jave a good guess as it runs from the relay.

HI;
Most likely it is a hot wire. Sounds like someone did the old bypass wiring. Works for a little while, But does not last forever. Try a new relay, " might get by for a while". Thanks Les.

1993 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Engine Vibration When driving Always

How would I know if I have blown a head gasket? I just bought the truck and it constantly runs hot. I replaced the thermostat and radiator cap but the gauge says it's running very hot, although when I check the hood and the engine, it appears normal. I noticed today a leak, and I think that's my culprit on why it's running hot, but there is a bad vibration when I drive.

Hello, A blown head gasket can cause the effected cylinders to misfire. It can cause coolant to mix with the engine oil (makes a milkey brown color appear on the inside of the oil filler cap). It can cause white smoke out the exhaust.

The best test if you have a compression tester, is to run a compression test. The lowest reading cylinder must be within 85% of the highest reading cylinder.

Are you adding coolant frequently? Do you have too much "oil" in the crankcase?

Please advise,

Roger

Hello?, Still need help? Please advise.

Roger

I believe I have a leak into the motor. I'm going to have to remove the heads. Do you think it's worth it? The truck runs extremely hot, when I remove the dipstick it shows excessive oil and it has a vibration. I'm positive I have a leak. What are your thoughts?

Do I think it's worth it? Do you have recourse where you bought the truck? Do you know how to do this work? Is the truck something you want to keep? If so, it can be well worth it to you. But, it's your money and your decision.

Let me caution you that a compression test can tell you where to look if it is a gasket. But it won't tell you if the block has a crack where a coolant jacket is cast.

The rough running leads me to think it is a gasket issue. Bear in mind the more you run this engine like this the higher the risk of cylinder wall scoring.

Knowing the compression test results would help me decide to pull the heads and have a machine shop check them for cracks. And depending on recorded miles on the truck, I'd have a valve job done while there.

Going back together you'll have reasonable assurrance of a positive result.

Where to from here?,

Roger

I don't have recourse against the seller. Truck has over 145k miles. I'll call a shop and get a compression test and let you know. If the gasket is blown, would that result in water getting into the motor?

Yes, a blown gasket will cause water/coolant to get into the oil because the coolant is no longer sealed out of the combustion chambers. It is literally pumped (by the water pump) into the combustion chambers and blows by the piston rings down into the crankcase oil. The contaminated oil effects everything that should be lubricated by oil. A good flushing of the oil system might be necessary to ensure a long lasting repair.

Depending on how much you have invested in the truck you can still win here. If you plan to drive this one long enough to get your money's worth...I believe any pick up in good running condition is worth having so long as I like the way it is equipped.

Roger

What is happening with this one, please?

Just checking,

Roger

1993 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Heating / Cooling System   

My blower motor keeps blowing the fuse. Usually it happens when the blower is still on before turning the ignition off or when starting the truck up and the blower is on. (1993 dodge dakota)and then the brake light comes on when I put the truck in reverse. what is the problem and how can i fix it.

Assuming that the wiring is not damaged. Sounds like the blower motor bearings are worn and/or there is debris in the housing.

Automatic trans? Column shifter?

automatic trans

my uncle who owned it originaly had dodge try to fix it and from what i can remember they replaced the blower motor

I would carefully trace and check the wiring. If you require a wiring diagram, thr Hayned Shop Manual (abt $15) has good wiring diagrams.
The light problem might be as simple as the bulbs and sockets got switched! An internal short in bulb could cause this.The backup lights and the brake lights are entirely different circuits, so they should not affect each other.

The brake light only comes on when the fuse blows and also only comes on when i put the truck in reverse after the fuse blows

Three things come to mind:
Any modifications on wireing? Most common is Trailer wiring and plug.
Ever been in accident? Check wiring in that area.
Last, but not least. Pickup a HAYNES SHOP MANUAL.They do have easy to read wiring diagrams.Trace wires one at a time.
Paying a Tech to do repair? You will not get a quote, just their hourly rate X ? hours, which might be a bunch!

Thanks for your help.

1993 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Fuel System   

Radiator blew but has been replaced, very hard to start but runs fine once it starts. Any suggestions on what I should check next.

Start by checking/replacing the distributor cap and wires. Do you get any check engine light while the engine is running?

No but the temp guage is pegged and won't drop back down. I have replaced the distributor cap, coolant temp sensor and thermostat. I am getting good flow of gas into and out of injector. Motor turns over severtal times and if you pump gas pedal and then keep it floored it may start. I replaced the fuel pump in the tank less than 2000 miles ago also.

Did things get wet when the radiator blew? If they did you will need to disconnect and thoroughly dry connectors.

Could the head gasket be bad? I have been messing with it and it smokes alot after starting and even though I just changed the oil and filter when I removed the oil cap it is milky and I also have pressure in the radiator and hoses. Any ideas on what else might cause it if not.

Definetly check for a blown head gasket if the smoke is white. Is it?

it is white

i pulled the valve cover and it is brownish in there too, sort of milky. could that be the cause of the pressure in the radiator?

Some pressure is normal, but yes.

If you have an Autozone nearby, they will LOAN (for a fully refundable deposit) a tool that allows you to pressurize the radiator (via a hand pump). You can then determine where, if anywhere, the pressure escapes (it'll take the same path as the antifreeze).

A short cut, that may reveal results, is to pull the spark plugs. Any cylinders that have coolant entering will give the spark plugs a washed clean appearance.

I have brand new plygs in so I can't see a difference. The radiator is brand new but if I leave the cap off and try to start it the water/coolant shoots out in a good stream. Will the plugs be wet at all?

Possibly wet, if it is really bad.

That is a good sign of combustion gases (blown head gasket) if coolant shoot out as you described.

I think I'm going to pull the head to replace the gasket. Is there a trick to knowing where to set the cam and timing belt to ensure I get it back properly?

Which engine do you have?

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/10/18/e[redacted] 18e9.jsp&eraseCrumbs=YES

Copy and Paste the above link into your address bar for instructions with images.

Which engine do you have?

I have the 2.5l 4 cyl. I got the head off and will get the gasket today and hopefully get it back together. Is there a way to see if the gasket is in fact bad that I took off. Everything else looked fairly good but the #3 cylinder was wet (possibly when I pulled the head) but also the new plug that I put in was really darker than any of the others and looked burned compared to the others. I think the overheating was more the cause than the radiator water spraying out. I found a cooler sensor that was broke which I think is the cause of the pegged temp guage. Any suggestions appreciated.....Thanks

If you study the gasket and head surface you can should be able to tell where the leak was, the leak effectively creates tracks.

Also inspect the valves and make sure they are okay.

Did you have the head resurfaced?

This truck is seldom used and only has 55,000 miles on it but is a basic yard truck that I am only going to sink so much into. The valves look ok, not burned or don't appear to be stuck. The head came off clean and other than #3 cylinder looks good. I have not had the head done, I was just going to reinstall with the new gasket. I did leave the exhaust manifold on because the nuts/bolts are not moving without breaking off. Do you think I'll be ok?

Impossible to say, you have to try and see.

1993 Dodge Dakota Pick-up All Part Groups   

At 25 mph, a very pronounced rattle begins and continues while at 25-27 mph. Lowering or increasing speed stops the rattle. I have inspected and can find nothing loose after having tightened one heat shield. Two people have suggested the possibility that it could be something with the catalytic converter. Any suggestions?

Hi, There is a good chance the noise is the catalytic converter.

While stopped hold the foot brake firmly and with the transmission in gear increase the engine speed slowly and try to duplicate the rattle this way. Can you do it? If you can then you should be able to tell if the noise is coming from the converter.

Roger

Tried! Couldn't duplicate! Any other suggestions?

Yes, When the exhaust is cool look and see if it is routed too close to anything it could vibrate against.

Strike the exhaust pipe near the cat with a rubber mallet and see if it rattles.

You might consider having the exhaust system inspected by a muffler shop for their opinion. I would be surprised if they charge for looking but please call ahead so you won't get a big surprise.

Roger

Muffler shop inspected and found "cat" OK. They felt it was the heat shield over it and removed it at no charge. There is still a rattle but lesser, I think. Thanks for your help. How do you get paid?
Do I have to click on "FINISH"?

Try that FINISH button. I never get to see that part of our work here.

I would expect to see something like "Click OK to finish up".

I thank you,

Roger

1992 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Heating / Cooling System   

The engine runs hot most of the time although the gage comes back to center once in awhile. The top of the radiator and hose off the top of the radiator are hot. The bottom of the radiator and the hose off the bottom of the radiator are cold.

The thermostat has been replaced. I was told by the previous owner that the water pump had been recently replaced. Is it possible that the radiator is plugged or partially plugged? What else could it be?

Its possible its a coolant temperature sensor, Cooling fans on fritz. or blockage. Flush or have flushed the entire cooling system. Make sure proper installation of water pump and proper water pump, IE no leakage or seeping. Check all hoses and outlets to make sure they arent leaking or seeping. Run vehicle, check to make sure fans are coming on and off and system is flowing when hot. Run through the temperature cycle and make sure heat/ac etc are working properly.
Replace coolant temperature sensor if necessary.
This is located :
for v8 and V6= Under hood, center, front engine area, between alternator and power steering pump, mounted in intake manifold

For 4 cylinder=
Under hood, center, rear engine area, between ignition coil and valve cover, mounted in water outlet

added Check for proper thermostat also,(if needed) make sure the temperature rating and part is recommended for your vehicle. Some times aftermarket varieties are not compatible with your particular vehicle and wont open and close correctly.

Thank you for your reply. I'm going to try your suggestions this weekend. Thanks again.

Steve Laundree

You are very welcome good luck in your endeavor.

1992 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Engine   

specs on 3.9 liter motor, torque on bolts to the main bearing crank shaft

Rod bearings Torque to 22# in sequence.
Then go over to 44# in sequence.
Then turn additional 60 degrees rotation.
Crank main caps: 37 ft lb in sequence
then 45 ft pounds in sequence.
then 66 ft pounds in sequence
then turn an additional 90 degrees.
Ensure all bolts are clean and lightly oiled prior to installing.

1992 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

best way to bleed brake system after being opened for inspection and new rear shoes?

Hello, Do you have a helper? Was the fluid system disturbed when you replaced the brake shoes?

Please advise,

Roger

mechanics were working on the brakes,they got to a point where the rear brakes could be bled but the front could not be bled of all the air . this even with a constant pressure machine.They blame it on the modulating valve which maintains a balance of pressure front to back.I believe the valve is working the way it should and the bleeding proceedure is to blame. ray

Hi Ray, Do you have confidence in the master cylinder? Are you experiencing brake pedal fade? Does the brake warning light come on when you press the brake pedal?

In my experience the thing I look for if I suspect a pressureization equilization valve defect is a major fluid loss or master cylinder failure.

To answer how I best bleed brakes I start with the right rear, left rear, right front, left front.

I like to use a clear tube fitted over the brake bleeder valve and ending inside a clear container with enough clean brake fluid inside that the tube end remains submerged in the fluid at all times.

I open the bleeder valve and allow the fluid to gravity feed into the container until no air bubbles are seen.

Next I have a helper press the brake pedal to the floor at least three full strokes while I watch for any air bubbles to appear.

Since the clear tube end remains submerged in clean brake fluid there is no need to open/close the bleeder valve before/after each pedal stroke. All brakes must be fully assembled and you'll note with this method you do not have to keep servicing the master cylinder fluid level. Leave the lid on after you service it full.

When satisfied no air is evident, tighten the bleeder valve and move to the next wheel brake in the order listed above.

Repeat the process.

The master cylinder will have to be bled the old fashioned way one line at a time, loosen a line connection...brake pedal to the floor, tighten the line connection...release the brake pedal. Repeat until no air comes out for three pedal cycles per line connection to the master cylinder.

Now you will have to service the master cylinder fluid level before you are finished.

Thoughts?,

Roger

My thoughts are... the rear brakes were bled and the master filled,upon trying to bleed the front brakes the pumped pedal would collapse to the floor without removing the air from the lines at the front wheel cylinders. I feel that with the back brakes bled,and under pressure, there is pressure only on the rear brake side of the equalizing valve upon pumping and no or low pressure on the front brake side and the equalizing valve is doing what it is supposed to,allow the truck to stop via the rear brakes. Trying to bleed the front with high pressure on the rear portion of the valve will not fly. I feel the system should be near equal pressure while bleeding and then pumping the pedal to obtain braking pressure on all lines at the same time will put the equalizing valve in a limited range for proper operation. Do you concur?

Sure do. See, I'm old school. Retired with thirty years dealership experience and I NEVER used a constant pressure set up.

Absolutely nothing on your vehicle is a higher priority than good brakes.

If any doubt points to the equilizing valve after the bleed process I described has been completed I'd replace the valve. A very affordable part considering it's job and the lives that depend on it.

In truth it is extremely rare to have to replace this valve. One must consider that the exception can show up on any vehicle. The valve on your truck is 15 years old if original. It wouldn't take much moisture in old fluid to stick the valve with a minimum of corrosion in the bore.

Thinking out loud,

Roger

Roger: Thank you for all your information, I do appreciate it.ray huber.

What else may I do for you Ray? If you are ready to close the question so that All Parts will pay me just click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

If you need something further on this question, please advise.

I thank you,

Roger

Roger, I do not see an "OK to pay Tech. button.I say it is ok to pay!

Thank you! I'll ask the site administrator to review ourdialog and close the question.

Roger

1992 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Engine   

My dakota has 230,000 miles and runs strong. However it is burning oil with no leaks on ground or around engine.The oil pressure gauge starts out reading normal when first started. As it's driven the pressure gauge reads low.The muffler has been changed but there is also a strange odor emitted at times and sometimes white smoke.Could this be oil pump or oxygen sensor? Or what?

Hello
Sounds alot like worn piston rings with that many miles its normal. Is the odor sorta like an egg smell of burning oil?
Heavychevy

I'd have to agree that it does sound as if the rings my be the cause here. Have a compression check done. If there is a varriance of 8psi or more between any or all cylinders time for an overhaul.

Thanks much your answer sounds very possible.

1991 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Engine   

several times a day my engine will just stop. It won't start for about 30 seconds and then runs fine. It turns over fast but never hits a like until I let it set for at leat 30 seconds. I recplaced the fuel filter but that didn't help. It runs great when it starts.

Sounds like it might be time to check for codes,even if check engine light not on.A loose connection? A problem starting with crank position sensor?

sometimes the engine stops whilr running. It is very consistant in that it has to sit for at least 30 seconds then it will start every time and run fine. Sometimes it will run for hours and some times it will start in the morning and run for 10 seconds or so then after 30 seconds it will start and run fine.

Drive for another week, if poss. if it progressively gets worse, I would suspect the crank position sensor. Assuming the truck gets tuneups.

Next time, if you can, check for spark, when it quits running. A weak coil could be problem.

1991 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Fuel System   

Driving down the road, motor quits after it sets about an hour it starts. Turns over, does not fire. I can't tell if it is not getting gas or spark from the coil. This happened twice in 1 week. It was raining or just stopped raining. The distributer was not wet. Computer replaced about 2 months ago.

Hello, It sure would be valuable to determine at the time of failure if there is spark.

Two thoughts come to mind:
1. If no spark I'd want to see if the crankshaft sensor is producing a signal measured in millivolts.
2. If spark is present it may be the fuel strainer filter inside the gas tank is collecting enough dirt that it is sucked flat by the fuel pump and flow is prevented.
When the engine stops the fuel pump stops the suction through the fuel strainer stops and the strainer expands to original shape allowing flow again. Engine restarts.

We need to know what the fuel pressure is when the condition is present. And, check to see if there is spark.

Roger

What is the status here please?

Thanks,

Roger

1990 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Drive Train / Driveline   

I have a 1990 dodge dakota 4cyl, It runs fine but when I drive there is a grinding sound?maybe transmission..drive shaft universals are good,it started to make the noise yesterday and got louder today!

Is this an automatic or manual transmission?

If you coast in neutral does the noise change?

It may also be in the rear differential.

I assume the vehicle has to be moving, eliminating engine noise. Have you also eliminated noise from individual wheels (brakes, bearings).

it's a standard..no I did not elimanate wheel noise.

the truck has to be moving,the brakes still work fine also.

the noise stay's the same in nuetral..

Okay, jack up the vehicle and safely support on jack stands. Spin the wheels one by one to see if you can recreate the noise.

1990 Dodge Dakota Pick-up All Part Groups   

when trying to drive the gas pedal could be to the floor and their is very little pickup and go then the check engine lights come on after running for awhile. And my gas mpg is around 2 mpg. what could be the problem

the engine is a 3.9 v6

That is horrible gas mileage. Is there black smoke from the exhaust? Does the oil smell like gasoline?

The first thing I want you to do is check the trouble codes. Turn the key on, off, on, off, and on again (on is where the dash lights come on but NOT engine cranking.)

The engine light will begin to flash trouble codes.

Flash pause Flash Flash= code 12

--long pause-- (will seperate different codes)

Flash Flash Flash pause Flash Flash= code 32

The first set of flashes is the [ones] place and the second set is the [tens] place. It may take a few tries to get the hand of it (simply turn the key off for a few seconds and start over whenever necessary.) Let me know which codes you find.

Also visually inspect the map sensor. Check the vacuum hose to it for looseness/cracks/etc.

I think we can solve this one.

I think im getting 12 first then 33. Also where do i find the map sensor.

checked code thing again was getting 12, 33,13,21,15,and 55

Look at the vacuum diagram underhood for location of the map sensor (it has a vacuum hose going to it.)

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/10/11/7e/[redacted] 117e/repairInfoPages.htm

12, 33, and 55 appear normally OR for no reason.

13 is a map sensor code (vacuum).

15 is the vehcile speed sensor code. Is there any problem with the speedometer or shifting? If there is we'll explore this code further.

21 is oxygen sensor

map sensor appears good and vacumn line also. speedometer is working good also but with the engine problem there is some hesitation when transmission is shifting (automatic Trans). As for oxygen sensor that was just replaced because exhaust pipe broke around the sensor kind of chewing up the tip.

The initial test for the map sensor is visual and confirming vacuum. Further testing is necessary--

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/10/11/7e/[redacted] 117e/repairInfoPages.htm

Have you performed the testing at the above link? How much vacuum do you have to the map sensor?

If it passes the previous tests and has full vacuum at idle (at or approaching 20 in), measure the output voltage at engine idle (sensor connector backprobed.) The voltage should drop considerably in response to high vacuum (idling engine produces high vacuum, wide open throttle is low vacuum). What do you get for voltage?

1989 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Fuel System Malfunction When starting No pattern

The engine runs rough like the fuel turns on and off. When the key is turned on but not started the injector sprays fuel continuously. The computer, pick-ip coil, ingnition coil, and injector have been replaced.

The computer supplies the ground to the injector and the positive is constant (as least with the key on). If the computer is not bad, the most likely cause is that the injector negative is constantly grounded. Trace the wire starting at the injector.

Thanks for the info. After tracing the wiring, I found that the mechanic that had worked on it previously had left a ground wire off by the back of the head. I hooked it up and it took right off. I wish I would have found you guys sooner.

1989 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Engine   

I just replaced the engine (3.9L) in my '89 Dakota Convertible pick-up with a new remanufactured engine and had the transmission rebuilt. With everything back in place and the distributor set as close as possible to the correct position, I turned the key. It started almost instantly! It had oil pressure and the alternator was charging. I backed it out of the garage and let it run. It was so smooth and quiet. I drove it slowly up and down the driveway to make sure the transmission was working. I shut it off, checked things over again and restarted it. It came up to o perating temp and was idling just as smooth as a new truck. Suddenly, it just shut off like you turned the key off. It would not restart. It turns over, but won't start. If I spray a little starting fluid in it, it will start for a second. Next day it still won't start. I'm getting a good spark from the coil, I've got 15 lbs fuel pressure and I can see fuel spray from the injectors. I ckecked the distributor and rotor and they were tight and still in the proper position. If it sits a minute it will almost start, but just while it is cranking. I tried jumping the contacts of the auto shutdown relay, but same results. If I have fuel into the throttle body, a spark (verified at the spark plug, not just at the coil) and my distributer wasn't loose or moved what happened? There were no noises or anything, just smooth running, then nothing. Thanks, Tony

If the engine runs on starting fluid until the starting fluid runs out and then dies one would think there could be a fuel quality issue. You have spark, fuel pressure is stated to be 15 psi. (spec calls for 14.5 psi)

Try a different timing setting. Ensure you have a good ground between the engine and the body.

Roger

Grounds between the engine block and firewall, from battery negative post to block, battery neg. post to fender, as well as wiring harness to block and manifold are present. Has half tank of gas that it was running on before engine swap, about a month old. Also I have moved the distributer back and fourth slightly with no improvement. This engine ran perfectly for about 25 minutes before suddenly shutting off with no sputtering or missing.

Do you have a way to try a different fuel supply? I'm stalled on the fact that it starts on starting fluid and runs on it until the fluid runs out...

Roger

What is the status of this question please?

Thanks,

Roger

I took the truck to a local mechanic. After replacing the fuel injectors and MAP sensor, still had same problem. They ordered new computer, but before installing it, they found a bad factory splice in the wiring harness that was affecting the MAP sensor. Seems like this fixed it as it is running now.

Thank you. That means I did not answer your question.

To receive a refund please write to All-Parts.com, Administrator, All Parts.com and make your request known.

Thank you for the chance to try to help,

Roger

1989 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Fuel System   

When driving on the highway, specifically at 75 MPH, I get a violent vibration in the gas pedal. Below 75 or above, nothing, normal. It feels like an electric sander under my foot. Extremly rapid but smooth. ???

The truck does have cruise, but is currently not working. It almost feels like the cruise is trying to take over, which is impossible at this time.

Do you feel the noise in the gas pedal only, as opposed to the floor board? If you do start with an inspection of the gas pedal arm/etc, throttle cable, and throttle body. Check to see if anything is loose or coming in contact with these items that may be creating problem.

Pedal only! Inspection of what you mentioned SEEMS normal, but I don't have anything to compare it too. Someone mentioned U-JOINTS, but that doesn't make sense to me. Wouldn't you feel it in other areas, as in the body, floorpan, etc?

1989 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Fuel System   

I have 1989 Dodge Dakota that has sat for 2 years. Now it want start. Fuel is not being pump in to the engine. Their is nothing wrong with the fuel pump. I can pour fuel directly into the carborator and the engine will run, but gas is not flowing through the carborator into the engine. Any ideas?

The first thing to check is the fuel pump at the rear of truck, listen to see if it is running,if not replace the pump.
Not a good idea to , 'not run for two years'.Bad for fuel system, oil system etc. Better to run engine etc for short while every 2-3 months or so.

I have already put a new fuel pump in the truck and it pumps fuel into the carborator when you first turn the key on, but doesnt seem to continue to pump fuel.

1989 should have a throttle body, (fuel injection) not a carb.It is designed to only use fuel on demand, if not running it will shut off.Check the fuel lines, regulator and the filter(s)

I checked the fuel line and fuel is being pump all the way upto the fuel enjectors, but the injectors are not injecting fuel. Is there a computer or sensor that controls the injectors and if so is this my problem and if so were is the computer or sensor located?

Try getting it scanned for codes first, as a few different sensors are required to make the engine operate.A simple scan would prevent you from replacing expensive sensors,
Some that come to mind are the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors.

1989 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Windows / Glass   

I am rebuilding a 1989 Dakota convertible 4x4 and would like to replace the box (bed) with that off a 1988 Dakota (2wd), both are short boxes. Is it feasible?

Should be no major problem as they both share the same frame rails, just the front suspension and the trans crossmenber are different. The part of the frame from the cab rearward is the same. The box is not heavy, if you have a few friends on hand.
Just give them beer AFTER the job is done!

Bruce Kit: Thanks for the quick reply to my question re: truck box exchange. I live in Canada and have a keg of beer on tap, so if you are interested come on over. We winter in Laughlin, Nevada where I am going to purchase the box since rust is not an issue here. I will be sure to use your services if I need further assistance. Regards, John May

I am in Langley BC Canada....winter in Canada...very warm here usually...

1989 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Fuel System   

its a 3.9 liter engine. i have the fuel going into the filters off to see if i have fuel going to it and there is no gas coming though the lines with key on. is there a fuse to raplace of is it a bad pump. if there is a fuse where is it. thanks justin

Check the ASD they usually go bad on dakotas.The Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay is located inside the power distribution center. The power distribution center is located at the left-hand rear corner of the engine compartment.
Heavychevy

i will i know which one it is
is it marked

O.E.M. #[redacted] should be it if not get back with me

there is no relay with that part number but this a metal one bolted t th side with no part number.

ok that should be it now turn the key and see if it clicks

ok it does not click

than its the relay when you go get a new one call it a fuel pump relay they may not know about it being an ASD

It should be inexpensive and easy to switch out

Apparently the ASD relay also controls the coil voltage and the fuel pump.
If you have no spark and no fuel then it should be the relay.
If you have spark but no pump, try temporarily hotwiring the pump to 12 volts, as a test.
PS the ASD relay is located in the Power Distribution center, next to the windsheild washer resevoir. Take the time to carefully check the wiring connections under the Power Dist Ctr., as they commonly corrode.

what sghould the relay look like ? is it plastic or metal

usually black pkastic, unless it has been cjanged. Remember to check connections on underside of panel.

1989 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Fuel System   

My 1989 Dakota turns over but will not start. I've put a little gas in the carburator, and it starts, but dies after not getting any more gas from the fuel lines. I've traced 2 fuel lines from the tank to the carburator, but I don't see a fuel pump. The only thing attached to the fuel lines is a little cylindrical reservoir located directly below the drivers side door. But, this resrvoir does not have any electric wire going to it.

i think I've found what is described as the fuel pump relay, but it does not connect to the fuel lines in any way.

Does an 89 Dakota have a fuel pump? Where's it located?

Is there another reason that the gas is not getting to the carburator?

Hi, first of all let me tell you where the fuel pump is, the fuel pump is inside the fuel tank so it can be a bit tricky to get to.

Now the fuel pump relay is located on the Drivers Side Inside fender Wall Just below the hood hinge It Looks like a Silver Oblong Box with a 4 Pin Molex Connector, now once you have located this if you listen close to it when you turn the ignition on you should hear it click this indicated it is sending power to the pump, if you cant hear it click then hold you hand on it then put the key in ignition the turn the ignition on you should feel a faint click this also indicates the relay is working, if you dont feel or hear a click then the chances are the relay needs replacing, if it does click then the chances are the pump has stopped working and this will then need replacing.

But before you do anything go through the fuse box and pull each fuse out one at a time and check if its blown or not if its not put it back in but if you come across a blown fuse replace it with one of the same type, then after doing this try to see if you can hear or feel the relay working or not if its still not doing anything then you need to get a new fuel pump relay and then you should be up and running again.

make sure though that when your testing the relay that you remove the key from the ignition every time you try the relay then when you turn the ignition to on possition you need to listen or feel for any click inside the relay which indicates the relay is working and sending power to the pump.

let me know if you have any problems ok

1988 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Engine   

I have a 1988 Dodge Dakota with a 3.9L v6 with two problems: first, my truck stars fine after few minuets id dies and wont start up right away, it continues to die until it reaches normal operating temperature. Once it is warm it runs fine and does not die. The second problem is me emergency brake light came on and I can’t seem to figure out why. Any ideas would be appreciated!

Hi, Consider the coolant temperature sensor may be faulty. This would cause the engine's computer to call for too lean a fuel mixture.

Have you checked the brake fluid level in the master cylinder? If it is low it may be a sign the front brake pads are wearing thin.

Thoughts?,

Roger

How are you doing on this one? Please update.

Thanks,

Roger

Sorry for the tardiness of my reply. You were right about the brakes, however the truck still stalls. I took it to a shop and they were unable to figure out the problem. Although they did say the computer thinks it is in drive when it is in park. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Nick

Does the check engine light come on while driving? Will the truck start in gear?

The stalling is not caused by the computer thinking the truck is in Drive when it is really in Park. No computer is designed to stall the engine...unless you have low oil pressure.

Some vehicles will stop fuel injection when oil pressure drops below a preset threshold. If more than one wire connects to the oil pressure sending unit your engine could be one of them. I'd have to research to confirm.

The stall symptom you describe doesn't really sound like an oil pressure issue.

Roger

No the check engine light doesn’t come on. The truck wont start in gear. And I am unable to locate the oil pressure sending unit, however I have had low oil pressure since I purchased the truck.

Nick.

The oil pressure sending unit should be near the oil filter.

I wonder how it was diagnosed that the computer thinks the shift lever Park position is Drive? If the back up lights are indexed correctly and the truck starts only in Park and Neutral nothing else should factor.

Roger

I don’t seem to have a oil pressure sending unit, although I may have stumbled across the problem. So I ask will the throttle position sensor cause my truck to stall?

Nick.

Yes, the TPS can indeed induce a stall. If the computer can't monitor the throttle it cannot properly control fuel.

I'll see if I can find where the oil pressure sending unit is on the 3.9L

Roger

WOW! The oil pressure sending unit is on top of the intake manifold near the distributor. Never would have thought it to be so.

Roger

This will probably be the last question I ask you. If you would please compile a list of sensors, the first are sensors that are used in start up and cold running but not when the vehicle is warm. The second part are sensors that are not used in start up and cold running but are used in standard running. However I only need the sensors that can cause a vehicle to stall.

Nick.

Nick, What is your email address or a fax number? I can send you some operation theory information.

Thanks,

Roger

My email is, [redacted]

Nick.

Thanks,I'll send the info to you.

Roger

Hi Nick, Did the info help?

Roger

Thank you Roger, the info helped. It turned out to be the map sensor. I thank you again and release this question.

Nick.

1988 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

1988 Dodge Dakota 3.9 4speed AT. It died, no fuel to engine. 250,000 miles. Electrical socket on fuel tank was shot. Replaced cable end & socket. Replaced relay. Power to relay from computer is intermittant. Is the computer shot or is it a bad ground? Chrysler dealer told me of a similar truck. Owner tried 3 pumps, 2 relays & then gave it to a technical college to experiment on. They had it for 8 weeks & found a bad ground under dash that wasn't even on the wiring diagram as far as being associated with the fuel system. It was cleaned & then all was well. I'm not sure if the computer is shot or if there is a bad ground. How can I possibly find every ground that might be faulty?

A bad ground or computer could give the same results.

Are you getting any trouble codes? Do you have reference voltage to all other sensors?

Will the engine run okay if you jumper the relay so the fuel pump runs?

I found that the relay was good. The electrical connector on top of the tank was bad & so was the plug that goes into it, one bad terminal on each. We were trylng to get the proper signal from the computer to the relay before we put everything together for the third time. The computer should send a signal to close the relay which in turn starts the pump. If the engine starts the computer keeps the relay closed so the pump stays on so the engine continues to get fuel to continue running. If the engine fails to start after 2 seconds the computer opens the relay to shut off the pump. It seems odd but the computer wouldn't give out the proper signal to the relay until the tank was reinstalled & all fuel & electrical connectors put back on. I didn't try just hooking up the wires to the tank while it sat on the ground because by that time I was convinced that either the computer or a ground was faulty. Works great now but I'm wondering if the computer needs feed back from the pump to work properly.

Are you sure the computer was not sending a signal to the relay?

1988 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Engine   

I have an 88 3.9 FI 4x4 automatic. I have a problem with the truck, after warming up upon accelaration out of first gear into second the truck bucks and seems to cutout, never dies. It idles fine and actually runs fine before this problem starts happening. No fault codes. I have changed MAP, TPS, 02 sensor, fuel pressure regulator, coil, wires, Hall effect pickup, temp sensor and even tried a different SMEC all to no avail. It runs fine until it gets up to temperature and and gets a few miles then it starts the stalling on acceleration, if I slowly give it gas sometimes it is OK or only does it once or twice.

Disconnect the coolant temperature sensor and try it, any change?

Note this will turn on the check engine light and set a code.

Temporarily plug the egr port and test drive, any change?

Also, any difference if the accelerator is floored (assuming this can be done in a safe environment)?

This assumes it runs fine while accelerating in first. What open after second gear, do they bother too?

I have tried the temp sensor and still does it.
I will try the EGR havent tried that yet.
When it happens I can give it gas and when it gets into passing gear it seems to be OK.

Update
Tried the plugging EGR vacuum port, 100% better. Doesnt do it as often or as many times. Just every once in a while when steadily accelerating from a stop between 35 to 55. Nowhere near as often.
When it doesnt do it it feels like it wants to,right on the verge, but doesnt do it.

Also I have put a new EGR valve and Injector in it also same results.

Although the symptoms are not exactly what I'd be looking for, have you ruled out a restricted exhaust?

That was one of the first things I checked.

It is almost like something is sticking until it either opens or closes and then I get like a power boost.

Try a wiggle test with the engine idling, see if you can recreate the stumble by wiggling wiring harness's. Use a stick or something (Extreme Caution around Moving Engine Parts!).

Tried that before and after I clean all the connectors and checked for vacuum leaks.

Does it still happen if you manually shift the transmission, altering the shift points?

Yes doesnt matter if I manually or not.
I have been thinking about the speed sensor because I finally got a light for the sensor this morning but in the afternoon I didnt get one.I checked the plug and wiring and they were OK, I plan on changing the sensor tomorrow if I can get one.
I will let you know how that goes.

That is an unusual way for it to fail, but anything is possible.

Update
Ifinally traced it down to a bad timing chain distributor and bad new plug wires.
Inspected the timing chain and found lots of slop. Changed with a new kit,got better.
Then removed distributor and found the reluctor had a lot of movement. Changed got even better but still did it but not as rough. Rechecked plug wires and found two wires bad, changed and now it runs like brand new.

Thank you for the update.

What part replacement showed the greatest improvement?

Napa Beldon and Original Equipment are typically the best wires (perhaps the only ones you consistently expect to be be good).

The timing chain was probably the best improvement.
I had bought some wires from a parts place, wont do that again. That compounded the original problem later on. Original are the best I think.
But anyway it is fixed and I learned a lot about all the components that control the engine.

1988 Dodge Dakota Pick-up Electrical / Lighting Systems   

A month ago, the engine acted like it was out of gas and wouldn't catch when I turned the starter. After about ten minutes of trying it for a for seconds at a time and resting it, it started as usual and drove wel, as usual.
A couple of weeks ago it did the same thing, but for only a gfew minutes.
A few days ago it would not start at all, the battery charge was down and I had to get another way to work. I cleaned the battery terminals and it ran fine for a couple od days.
Then, two days ago, after driving to work, the battery drained during the day. I recharged it and it never has started now for two days and the battery holds the charge well. It still cranks the starter after all these tries to start it.

Try checking trouble codes. Turn the key on/off on/off and on again (3 times with 5 seconds). The check engine light will begin to flash.

flash pause flash flash- indicates code 12. That is 1 flash for the 'tens' place and 2 flashes for the 'ones' place.

The will be a longer pause between codes.

flash flash flash pause flash flash= code 32.

If you lose track simply turn the key off and start over.

Which trouble codes do you find?

Also which engine do you have?

You may have crank/cam sensor failure in the distributor causing a no spark condition.

I'm afraid that the truck is at work and I'll have to get there to try this. It'll be later when I have an answer.
I was hoping I would have an answer to take with me there, ha ha...

Thank you for your answer, and I'll get back with the codes as soon as I can.

Don't be to surprised if it start when you get there. You can ohm test the crank sensor (open or shorted is bad).