Dodge Dynasty

1992 Dodge Dynasty Ignition System Won't Start  Always

I need to know how to remove the starter and replace it? Also how can i tell what type of starter it is, the rep at the auto store expln there was two type use for that model my egine is 3.0 litre and finally do i have disconnect the battery to remove it please help me ??

Yes, disconnect the negative battery cable before performing repairs on any electrical component to your car. Also make sure the wheels are blocked and the car is safely supported before getting underneath it. Never trust a jack.

Highlight, Edit, Copy, and Paste the following link into your Address bar.

http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/0b/d0/cb/[redacted] d800bd0cb.jsp

Scroll down until you see-

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

You will be able to tell if you have the Nippondenso or Bosch starter by looking at the solenoids. The pictures on the web link show the difference.

this is just basic & generic i need specific detail
information because there large bracket in the way
and I can only see 2 bolts

Did you figure out how to remove the starter.
If not let me know, I'll see if I can get more in depth instructions tomorrow.

No, I am still dealing with it. The weather was bad for last 3 days so I still need more information. Thanks

Thank you I no longer need any help, my nephew
came over and replace it for me

1992 Dodge Dynasty Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When starting When warm 

transmission doesnt go into gear after vheicle is warmed up.it will go into reverse but not forward until it cools down.fluid and filter have been changed & it shifts fine otherwise

Hello, I really don't think there is anything you can do here without disassembling the transmission. Cold fluid is thicker in viscosity and seals easier against a worn/hardened seal. When the fluid is warm it is thinner and it can get past a seal even if the surfaces meant to seal are not scored from heat, or wear.

I can only recommend that you see a reputable transmission technician in your area for diagnosis and a repair estimate to see if you'll fix it or.... maybe not.

Roger

Hello? Is this question still active?

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, any change in the status of this question?

Just checking in with you,

Roger

Still need help here?

Thanks,

Roger

1992 Dodge Dynasty Electrical / Lighting Systems Failing Happens always Always

electric windows won't roll up or down. electric door locks won't work. brake light warning stay on. air conditioner and heater won't work. Checked all the fuses--okay. Suspect body computer but I can't find where the ac circuit goes thru the body computer.

Hi,
Sounds like you have a basic electrical problem affecting numerous circuits. Do the headlight work?? I suspect you may have a bad body ground. Use a test light ACLIPPED TO THE BODY to check the power fuses WHILE YOU TRY TO OPERATE the windows, etc. Then you should be able to track back through to determine whether you have lost power or ground.
Best wishes,
Dale

1992 Dodge Dynasty Windows / Glass   

Please tell me how to disable the auto door lock feature that occurs when driving 15 mph. Thank you.

Remove the door lock relay/module.

Highlight, Copy, and Paste this link into your Address bar.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/0c/4a/d[redacted] d800c4ad5.jsp

1992 Dodge Dynasty Engine Malfunction When accelerating When warm 

Engine seems to "load up" like the choke is on when it is warm. When I'm running 50 miles an hour and speed up or just roll on it is fine but if I let it get down to around 35 miles an hour and roll on it's like it has no power and I have to down shift to get the rev's back up and then it seems ok. It will "miss" every so often at highway speed as well. This just started when I left work one night. There is a smell like the engine is flooding when I start it up too. It is hard to start when hot and I have to crank it over several times before it fires and it runs rough like its loaded up until I rev it up and clear it out. There are no error codes just a 55. Any suggestions?

When was the last tune-up, new spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, etc?

You need to see if a fuel injector is leaking when the engine is turned off.

Will the car start better if you hold the accelerator to the floor (try this during the hard start period)?

Good call, I'm doing a tune up today and I also noticed that when I depressed the schrader valve on the fuel manifold there was NO fuel there and there should be pressurized fuel there. So I was wondering if I had an injector leaking as well. I was going to check fuel rail pressure to be sure it wasn't my fuel pressure regulator acting up but as I said, when I went to connect the fitting for the pressure gauge there was no pressure at all and the car was shut off for maybe half an hour so I'm wondering maybe an injector has gone south on me. Am I going in the right direction?
Thanks,,,
Bear.

THere is a good a good chance that a fuel injector is stuck open and leaking off fuel pressure. It would give the symptoms you have mentioned.

If you don't have a repair manual for your car, copy and paste the following link into your address bar.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

Let me know what you find.

1992 Dodge Dynasty Drive Train / Driveline   

I have a 92' Dynasty with the 3.3 engine. The problem is the auto transaxel. It was working fine when i parked after work. I got into the car later in the evening & now it won't upshift out of second. It will go into reverase, park, & neutral. I can move the selector to the other gears, but it has no affect, the transaxel will not up or down shift.

It sounds like you are stuck in 'limp home mode'.

Start by checking trouble codes using the Key On- Key Off method. Use the following link if you need instructions-

http://www.troublecodes.net/chrysler/

Let me know which trouble codes you find and we'll go from there. Hopefully it'll be something simple and relatively inexpensive like the VSS (vehicle speed sensor).

The code flashes 1 then 2 then 5 then 5

Try disconnecting the negative battery cable for a few minutes and reconnecting. This will reset the computer and hopefully take you out of limp mode.

I disconnected the neg. cable for about ten minutes, & then took it for a test drive. This did not work, it still is stuck in second.

Another likely failure is with the transmission controller (trans computer, TCM).

Diagnostics by a shop with the proper equipment is necessary to prove it is bad. It is your choice if you want to have it diagnosed or try another unit. There are a lot of these cars in salvage yards now, you should be able to find a used one iexpensively. If you can't let me know.

I went to a local shop & they place the car on the computer. As it turns out, the rpm ouput sensor is bad and shows "0" at all times when driving.

1992 Dodge Dynasty Engine   

Need a diagram on how to put supetean belt on a 3 litter v-6

Hello,

Copy and Paste the following link into your address bar-

http://www.autozone.ro/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0[redacted] 00c1d1e

If the link does not work simply visit autozone.com and click on Vehicle Repair Guides or Specifications to access a free online repair guide for your vehicle.

could not find a diagram which is what iam needing can you e-mail me a copy i can print out thank you

Yes,

Please leave your email address.

[redacted] thank you

Message sent, please let me know if this is what you are looking for.

1992 Dodge Dynasty Fuel System   

this morning it wouldn't start. fuel gauge showed empty...I added 2 gallons of gas and yet despite several attemts to start it -it acts as if the engine is not getting any fuel

Hi, What engine please? Do you have spark? Have you tested the fuel pressure? Do you hear the fuel pump run for two seconds when you first turn on the key?

Roger

3.3 L, Yeah, I think I hear a humming sound as I turned the key....sounds like a samll motor sound...(sorry I am not much of a engine guy..so I'll do my best)...It ran fine yesterday...I knew I need gas but I figured I could fill it up today...it is parked on slight slope (downhill and to the right)

Hey, you may have something there with the fuel quantity low and the car not level. I wouldn't add much more fuel as you may have to drop the tank if the pump is failing.

Any chance of getting the car level?

Roger

Btw, Thank you Roger...Kirk here.
How do I check the fuel pressure?

I thought of coasting it forward to a level spot...but it would block my neighbor driveway which would really suck if I couldn't get it started...I live on a dead end street with less than understanding neighbors.

Look for a valve on the fuel rail that has a plastic cap screwed onto it. It is the place where a test guage can be attached. Some car parts stores rent/loan a fuel test guage. The test valve is metal and similar in size to the metal part of a tire valve stem.

Fuel pressure is important but so is quantity. We need to verify the fuel pump has picked up the prime and pressured up the fuel rail for start.

It might be easier to get the car level, then look for tools if needed.

Roger

Yeah, I agree...I will try to level it and go from there....I just tried again and I can definitely hear the fuel pump working...So I am going to go out and wait for a neighbor to show and move their car so I can coast it to a level spot without blocking traffic. thank you Roger for you're input..if that doesn't work...I'll be back. Thanks again, Kirk.

Update when you can....I'll check back.

Roger

Hey Roger...I got it moved to a much more level spot, the fuel gauge says there's a quarter tank and still no luck...perhaps its time to check the fuel pressure....I also want to add that over the past month the engine response when I step on the gas has been a little erratic...like when I step on the gas it goes faster in initially then almost seems as if the gas supply is being restricted then it races back up then normalizes - It seemed to only happen when the car wasn't warmed up enough. I assumed it was because it is an old car...

How easy is it to get to your fuel filter? Your report of possibly starving for fuel could be a clogged fuel filter or a failing pump.

Did you check for spark?

Roger

1991 Dodge Dynasty Engine  When driving No pattern

I'm not sure what you would call it but it acts like it is running out of gas,while in drive or driving acts like its pushing or jerking I geuss is how you could explain it, then it kinda gets sluggish for a few minutes then goes back to normal , weird huh evryone thinks I'm crazy please help me ,I have just had the O rings changed on the fuel injectors and oil changed what else . please help a working house wife get back and forth to work Thanks

I wish I knew the frequency of the failure but based on this happening all the time,
You would need to determine whether you are having fuel or ignition problems.. have your fuel pressure tested under load to try and duplicate your experience...if fuel pressure remains constant while car is sluggish, problem could be a deteriorating coil

This does not occur often and Its actaully a 93 Dynasty , although there is no special time it happens, once or twice last summer, and about 5 times since then.

We did have the car looked at by a licensed Mechanic , he changed the O rings and checked the fuel injectors,and changed my oil , which he said was very bad, "made me promise to change it every 3000 miles or I was not getting it back " haha.

Then my husband changed the spark plugs and wires.

Does not seem sluggish any more, but does kinda still a very small amount of what i calling pushing or almost what seems as though either its out of gas, or um almost like it wants to cut out, but I dont know any way thanks for your help.

I will have the "coils?" looked at as soon as possible , if you have any other thoughts on this matter please reply to me.

Thank you for your time and trouble,

A very tired working mom who needs to get back and forth. Kitty

no trouble but this is more info... also have the throttle body cleaned

you asked a question in this forum about your Dodge... were you satisfied with the answer

1991 Dodge Dynasty Fuel System Chugging When driving No pattern

the car usually starts after about 3 attempts. On the highway at a higher speed the car will act as if its running out of gas and I give it more throttle but it chuggs then all of a sudden it will run ok. Could it be the fuel filter? where is it located and how do you change it

Which engine do you have, 3.0L, 3.3L, or 2.5L?
It may be the fuel filter, especially if it hasn't been changed in a while.
It will be located under the car on the passengers side, not far from the gas tank. Always relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting the filter. You will have to look at the filter and see if it uses hose clamps or quick connect fittings. If it uses quick connect fittings you may wish to have a professional change the filter. These can be troublesome and if damaged it will be necessary to replace the fuel lines.

the engine is a 2.5

It should have come with a quick disconnect connector at the fuel pump. It is best to use the special tool rather than a screwdriver for removal. If the line has been replaced (they were problematic for rusting through especially in the salt zones) it may have fuel injection clamps (simply loosen with a screwdriver).

Remove the gas cap. Relieve fuel pressure. DIsconnect fuel lines to filter. Remove bolt that holds filter to the frame. Install new filter in reverse order. Make a note during disassembly where the lines are positioned on the filter so they don't get installed in the wrong place. Follow safety precautions when working around gasoline. Safety goggles are always a good idea. Catch the fuel that spills from the old filter in an appropriate container. Check for leaks after you complete the job and the fuel pump has been activated.

1991 Dodge Dynasty Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When shifting Always

I had the Tranny replaced with a used one by a friend and after the work was done he told me that he couldn't hook up the speedometer cable because he couldn't find were it went. When I tried to drive it I found out that it was stuck in 3rd maybe and I had no speedometer reading! Does this car have a (TSS) or something?

VSS- Vehicle speed sensor, this is what you are looking for.

Hightlight, edit, copy, and paste this link into your address bar. This link shows the location.
http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/0c/4d/6[redacted] d800c4d62.jsp

And yes, this is your problem.

I guess I need to know were to hook up the speedometer cable to the tranny or equiv?

Have him look on the old tranny. The cable connects in the output shaft of trans (near where the axle shaft slides into the ouput shaft). Does the trans that was just installed have the same receptacle for the speedo cable?

Also check the diagnostic trouble codes. See what you find.

Instructions:

'Diagnostic Mode-The SBEC can show fault codes by means of flashing the check engine lamp on the instrument cluster. To activate this function turn the ignition key on-off-on-off-on within five seconds. The check engine lamp will then come on for two seconds as a bulb check. Immediately following this it will display a fault code by flashing on and off. There is a short pause between flashes and a longer pause between digits. All codes displayed are two digit numbers with a four second pause between codes. An example of a code is as follows:

Lamp on for two seconds, then turns off-lamp check.

Lamp flashes 5 times, pauses, and then flashes once-code 51.

Lamp pauses for four seconds, flashes five times, pauses and then flashes five times-code 55. '

Any trouble codes found?

Only error displayed was 55. He took a piece off the old tranny so that he could hook up the speedometer. It looked roughly the size of a pop can or a metal sleeve only way smaller in diameter in the middle. After the hook up we had a working speedometer, but it still did not want to go into thye right gears. As soon as you start driving it, it changes into a "default" gear or something. On the link I got from you is the "output speed sensor" for the A-604 tranny the same as the VSS? And, could this still be my problem?

Output sensor- VSS, same.

Unplug the Output sensor and take for a test drive. Any difference?

Reconnect output sensor and unplug the 'lock up solenoid' connector and test drive.

By the way which trans did your car originally have and which trans did you replace it with.

I'm not for sure at the moment but I will know this afternoon. What purpose does the "lock-up sol" serve?

The old tranny was a "A-413", and the new one is a A-604.

The 'lock up' locks the torque converter.

Thanks for all of your help... I have found out that we used the wrong tranny!

1991 Dodge Dynasty Engine  Happens always Always

3.3 V6. Engine smokes heavily out the exhaust from too much fuel. Crankcase is also filling with raw fuel. Most of the sensors have ben replaced along with the computer. What could be some possible causes for this condition??

Have you checked for leaking injectors? The injector can stick partially open (debri) and fuel pressure will leak past the injector.

Have you checked to see if an injector is grounded? The injector works by receiving a constant supply of battery positive, while the computer provides an on-off negative 'pulse' to fire the injectors. If the injector negative becomes grounded the injector will run all the time.

One other thing to check for is a leaking fuel pressure regulator, although your case almost sounds to severe for this.
Remove the spark plugs and inspect to determine if the problem is on both banks of the engine."

How do I check the individual injectors to see if they are grounded out? Also, what is the vaccuum control on the end of the fuel rail and could that cause this problem if it is bad??

The vacuum control thing (it has a small vacuum line) is the fuel pressure regualor. If the diaphragm goes bad it can leak raw fuel which will be sucked through the vacuum hose. Remove the vacuum hose and inspect for signs of gas. Warning- it is possible for fuel to leak on to the engine when you remove the hose if you have a severe leak, altough usually not very much.

The best way to check the for grounded injectors is with a noid light.

Check the fuel pressure regulator first and let me know.

Also make sure the hose has a vacuum supply while the engine is running. There is more than one way the regulator can fail. The second failure is when the regulator doesn't work and fuel pressure is to high. This naturally causes to much fuel to reach the engine- when the injectors open for a short time more fuel (at higher than desired pressure) passes by.

I took the plenum off and found one cylinder completely full of fuel. I am sure that it is a stuck injector. I am going to get one and replace it. We will see what happens. May I contact you again if this does not solve the trouble? Thank you very much. You have been very helpful.

Yes you can, simply respond back with any questions (or to share the solution), as you have done so far.

Good luck

I can't get a new injector for 3 days. I ordered it and will let you know what happens when I put it in.

Hello,

I was wondering if you successfully repaired the problem, or not?

If you need further assistance let me know.

I replaced the injector that was bad and had it running for about an hour. Afterthat it would not start again, but while it was running the smoking problem seemed to be gone. It was very hard to start though. Once it warmed up a little it would idle. This is my daughters car and I think they loaded the fuel tank up with injector cleaner and marver mystery oil. Might just have to run all that "bad" gas out of it and start fresh. I never have had any luck with Chrysler products. I wish Chevrolet ruled the automotive worls. LOL Thatnk you for your responce. I will let you know in a couple days how I make out if you can send me another link to get back to you. I wish I could buy you a beer for your help already. Thank you.

Okay, I'm ready for an update.

The smoking problem has stopped, but it is very hard to start. Like I said earlier, most of the sensors have been replaced. You have to crank....let off. Crank....let off. Then it is like it starts one cylinder at a time, then all of a sudden, they all take off and idles great. Step on the gas to rev it up, and it wants to backfire and spit. I replaced the fuel filter, changed the engine oil to get all the fuel out of the crankcase, and filled the fuel tank with a good grade gasoline. The fuel pump has also been recentl;y replaced. Could there be a vacuum line or return line not connected correctly that causes it to start so hard? I am not real familiar with Chrysler products. At least not since they quit making the slant 6. LOL There is a connector near the throttle body that has a 2-pin connector. I cannot find anywhere it fits. Any ideas?

Copy and Paste the link into your Address bar. Enter your vehicles information and access wiring diagrams to see what matches the wire colors. Or follow the instructions (very simple) to check the trouble codes. Whatever is unplugged should be set a trouble code. I would guess the intake air temperature sensor, but not certain.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

1991 Dodge Dynasty Electrical / Lighting Systems   

altenater removal;how to

First, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. Then you will need to remove the alternator belt by loosening the tensioner or the alternator. Remove the bolts that hold the alternator on, disconnect the wires from the back of the alternator.

Reverse the process for installation.

1991 Dodge Dynasty Ignition System   

CAR IS IN GREAT SHAPE I WENT OUT LAST NIGHT AFTER WIFE WAS DRIVING CAR ALL DAY I TRIED TO START THE CAR AND GOT NOTHING ENGINE WOULD NOT CRACK AND NO SOUND FROM STARTER BUT I DID HEAR FUEL PUMP KICK ON BUT THERE WAS NO SPRING BACK IN THE IGNITION SWITCH. I DO KNOW THAT THE BATT IS GOOD AND WHEN I DID TURN THE IGNITION SWITCH ON IT DID MAKE THE DASH LIGHTS, LIGHT UP AND THE RADIO DID ALSO WORK NEED TO KNOW IF THIS SOUNDS LIKE A BAD SWITCH ? THERE IS A LOT OF PLAY IN SWITCH

If the switch feels funny, I believe that is your problem. They can fail without feeling different, but if it feels different than normal, something is wrong in it.

COULD YOU GIVE ME STEP BY STEP DIRECTIONS TO CHANGE THE SWITCH

Disconnect the battery. Remove the plastic shroud from the steering column. You will need to turn the key on, use a punch or pick to push the release button on the ignition lock cylinder. Pull the cylinder and key straight outward. Unplug the wires from the ignition switch, unbolt the ignition switch assembly from the right side of the column. It will take some special sockets to remove it.

Assembly is the reverse. Turn the new switch to the on position before installing. Insert the lock cylinder without twisting it from its "on" position.

DO YOU KNOW WHAT SPECIAL SOCKETS ?

I think it is a female torx, like maybe an E7 or E8?

1990 Dodge Dynasty Electrical / Lighting Systems  Happens always Always

have bright lights but no dim . change 2 taillight bulbs on right and now i don't have brake lights or blinkers

you may have a problem with the Multifunction switch/ headlight switch

you asked a question in this forum about your Dodge... were you satisfied with the answer

1990 Dodge Dynasty Fuel System Stalling When driving Always

The car will run well for the first 5-8mile then the entire car dies and i have to coast to the side wait 10min-2hours to turn it back on?

You must determine if your engine will not start because of lack of fuel or lack of spark. If fuel is the problem, check the fuel pump, pressure etc.
If no spark, check the coil, distributor, 12 volts to the coil. It sounds like the fuel pump.
it is important to check these things when the car is in a no starting condition
while the problem is still in effect
i hope this helps

1990 Dodge Dynasty Fuel System   

I have been having trouble with the engine idle.It seems that when warm the idle faulters/stumbles then dies.It will restart but takes a few minutes.

I have replaced the O2 sensor (53K miles)no change!
I have checked the air filter/plugs/cap-rotor.all checked out fine.

when it starts to faulter at idle.I sprayed carb cleaner in the air box,and the idle returned to normal for a few minutes,then it repeated the stumble.

I bought a fule filter and replaced it,thinking it could be a partially blocked filter?
I drained the old filter,and found it dirty.

When I took the car for a road test it seemed fine,then when I let it idle in the driveway,it again started to do the same thing again.

Could I have a bad fuel pump as well?

I need to add this note:

My Daughter (driver of this car) also states that transmission shift erraticly when pulling to a stop,and noted this last time that the fuel guage was fluctuating too??

Seems like you have some sort of a vacume leak
First of all check the intake manifold and carb system for tightness and do a check around the vacume hoses
listen with a stethescope and connected tube for hissing sounds
get a can of carburater cleaner and spray around the hoses and intake to see if there is a change in the idle this would indicate a intake leak also
i hope this helps

I though the same thing,and did spray carb cleaner all around the intake manifold,and all it's vacuume hoses..
The only difference was when the engine started to drop off idle.
I'd spray carb cleaner into the air box,then the idle would return to normal idle again for a few minutes...
Sometimes the idle will be smooth for a few minutes,then start to act like it's starving for fuel.

You may be getting an errant read from the TPS of MAF sensors to the ECM.See if you can have a diagnostic scan done to look for problem codes.Check with one of your local parts chain stores.Some offer the service for free or at a nominal charge.My first thoughts were also a vacume leak but if you think you have ruled this out this would be another avenue to take.

I just removed the air filter box,and couldn't see anything (Leaking vac-hose (s) out of place,Didn't see a thing? So I started the car up,and it ran fine,until the fans kicked on and went through two cycles,(now warmed up)then it started to stumble,then stalled..

I could hear a Air sucking sound from the air filter box just before it stalled?

I was a heavy line mechanic,and as far as cars go this dodge 3.0 doesn't have but a few sensors on it compared to some on the road these days..

I've done the basics,and it appears to be an electrical issue,It has air/fuel/spark when cold,Then starts having this issue once warmed up at idle..

Any other suggestions? other than the local parts guy to run a sensor check?

Still sounds as if youre having a sensor problem.Now that you state that after the fan cycles when warm it starts to stumble, it could even lead to a temp sensor as well.No your vehicle dosent have as many whistles and bells as do the newer models,but it still has some that are crucial to making it run.

Is it really possible that a temp sensor could make this car act like this?

Its' possible.An errant pulse sent to the ECM may cause anything.

1990 Dodge Dynasty Drive Train / Driveline   

trans will not shift into overdrive, all other shifts are smooth. Motor is a little rough on take off but then it smooths out. bws

First do a transmission tun-up an change the trans oil filter.
You would want to take notice of the amount of debris located in the trans oil pan some metal shavings will be common but a large amount could be problematic T
If that does not change anythinghe vacuum modulator on the transmission could be faulty or the vacuum line is damaged
The electronic transmission control circuit may be faulty
One way to better diagnose it would be to do a system scan to check for stored codes
I hope this helps

I have already drained and inspected the pan, changed filter but didn"t see an excessive amount of residue in the pan. Been a long time since I did this kind of work...I will check the vac mod and line for trouble there. Thanks

How about checking for codes on the computer?

Thanks, I did that and thae only codes that showed up were 55 which according to the book is a standard code. The other code was 33 which said that the a/c pressure sensor was not working.
Bill

The overdrive circuit is controlled by the engine temperature sensor to prevent it from going into overdrive when the engine is cold. If the sensor is faulty, it will not allow your transmission to shift into overdrive. Also, check the thermostat, if it is stuck open, it will not allow the engine to come up to normal temperature and the transmission will not shift into overdrive

1990 Dodge Dynasty Engine   

ASD apparently invoked . trickle voltage to fuel pump but only runs if relay manualy closed (test) . gleaned from book that ASD triggered if no signal from
distributor so swapped internals with used yard parts to no avail . only 16,000
on Dad's old car - when he had it (9 years) it occasionally wanted to quit when
stopped or rolling very slow - I would take it for 35 mile highway ride home and
then back making the problem go away for 3-4 months then repeat . Dad said
it just needed a clean-out run . When car became mine (8 years ago) I gave it
a weekly 5 mile run ending with a 1/2 mile of highway run up for 3 years then the
front discs started dragging slightly (suspect Dad's topping off master cyl. with
DOT 3 instead of DOT 4 low moisture absorbancy - Florida climate!) so got by
another year by skipping the highway run up part . As the disc dragging became
worse (other issues to attend to first - house roofing +) they would now heat up
instead of just getting too warm and the engine would want to stumble at speed
with be just barely getting home with slightest throttle applied . in the driveway
at this point the engine would not rev but the next day with everything cold it
would start , run , and rev just fine - even idle slow or fast (test) for up to 45
minutes . because of the now bad dragging discs I only would start her up and
idle in the driveway for 10-20 minutes once a week . then switched to every two
weeks and then one day no starting ! thought the locked up discs were invoking
the ASD but dealer foreman said no way - friendly grocery cashiers mechanic father
said the engine computer is bad ... that the engine compartment needs to get hot
twice a week to keep them from rotting out . Have checked the connectors to the
computer harness and all are shiny like brand new (16,000 and garaged for the first 15,000 and driveway parked these last 7 years) . with my '95 Dakota turning
112,000 starting to feel the need to do the Dynasty right . Have the rebuild kits
for the brakes for some time now but stumped with the engine gremlin . Do you
think a new engine computer will do the fix and if so would you think it better to go with a rebuilt (like NAPA's) or buy new from the dealer - the used yard offering
no guarantee at all ? any guidance appreciated . I am a long time do all my own auto maintenance (lot's of guidance seeking sometimes) including two engine
rebuilds as well as manual transmissions and several paint jobs (Dad had me doing
the brake jobs by myself on all our three cars starting by age 14 and then on from
there) but second guessing these computers throws a completely new twist into
things . some mechanics I have run into pull all that out and put on a carb and
manifold with like a mallory ignition and have it the old way ! thankyou .

You are ok either way(rebuilt or new) as far as warranty goes. The only problem with a rebuilt is from my experience it wont last as long as a new from the dealer, but it should be life time warrantied and you can always take it back for another(save yourself some money). As far as the brakes go, if I'm reading it right you might think about checking your calipers for freezing up, hopefully I read that part right.

Which engine do you have?

MY '90 DYNASTY HAS THE 3.0 V-6 (MISSED INCLUDING THAT !! ) . NEED TO KNOW IF MY PROBLEM IS A BAD COMPUTER BEFORE SPENDING THAT MUCH . I
CANNOT RETRIEVE AND CODES WITH THE KEY ON/OFF THREE TIMES METHOD AND
MY "X-RAY" CODE READER SAYS "ENGINE NOT RESPONDING" . READING 12 VOLTS
AT THE FUEL PUMP BUT IT WON'T RUN UNLESS THE RELAY OPENED UP AND MANUALLY CLOSED SO I SUSPECT THE AUTOMATIC SHUTDOWN IS ON . THE FRONT CALIPERS ARE FROZEN (I KNOW HOW TO FIX THAT) BUT THE DEALER SAID
THAT NO WAY THAT WOULD AFFECT THE ASD . IS THAT TRUE ? WAS TOLD BY
A PRIVATE GARAGE OWNER THAT ALL I NEEDED TO DO IS "REFLASH" THE CPU
BECAUSE OF NOT RUNNING THE CAR ENOUGH BUT DEALER SAID NEVER HEARD OF
SUCH A THING . A FRIENDLY MECHANIC TOLD ME THAT THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT NEEDS TO GET HOT TWICE A WEEK (IN FLORIDA) TO KEEP THE CPU
FROM GOING OUT . IS THAT TRUE ? THIS CAR HAS 16'000 ORIGINAL MILES AND WAS GARAGED UNTIL 6 YEARS AGO WHEN IT BEGAN LIFE IN THE DRIVEWAY .
IT USED TO HAVE A STALLING PROBLEM WHEN COMING TO A STOP EVERY 4 MONTHS OR SO WHEN DAD HAD IT - - THEN I WOULD TAKE IT FOR A 35 MILE
HIGHWAY RUN HOME AND BACK AND IT WOULD BE GOOD FOR A FEW MONTHS
MORE THEN REPEAT THIS AGAIN . READ WHERE THE '90 AND '91 DYNASTYS HAD
A SIMILAR PROBLEM FIXED BY REPLACING THE CPU . THIS CAR HAS NO EGR VALVE
- - READ WHERE THE CANADIAN AND U.S.A. FEDERAL MODELS CAME WITHOUT AN
EGR VALVE . DAD BOUGHT THIS ONE AS A DEALER DEMO SO DON'T KNOW WHAT
IS WITH THAT . WAS TOLD BY NAPA THAT I WOULD NEED SPECIFIC CPU NUMBERS
FROM MY UNIT TO GET THE CORRECT REBUILT REPLACEMENT . IS THE NO EGR
FEATURE GOING TO MAKE THAT DIFFICULT IF NECESSARY ? I HAVEN'T CHECKED
WITH DEALER AVAILABILITY YET AND AM SUSPICIOUS ABOUT THE REBUILT UNITS .
LOOKS LIKE I SHOULD GO WITH A NEW DEALER CPU AT FIRST GLANCE BUT AM CONFUSED WITH NO CLEAR SOLUTIONS AND APPROACHES . I HOPE I AM LEARNING HOW TO ASK BETTER . THIS IS ONLY THE FOURTH TIME IN MY 58 YEARS THAT I NEED OUTSIDE HELP FOR MY AUTO FIXINGS ! THANKYOU FOR ANYTHING YOU CAN CLEAR UP FOR ME . JIM S.

THE FRONT CALIPERS ARE FROZEN (I KNOW HOW TO FIX THAT) BUT THE DEALER SAID
THAT NO WAY THAT WOULD AFFECT THE ASD . IS THAT TRUE ?

-The dealer is correct.

WAS TOLD BY
A PRIVATE GARAGE OWNER THAT ALL I NEEDED TO DO IS "REFLASH" THE CPU
BECAUSE OF NOT RUNNING THE CAR ENOUGH BUT DEALER SAID NEVER HEARD OF
SUCH A THING .

- "Reflashing" is done on late model vehicles. Although there are no instances when this done because of not running enough. Sometimes the computer needs to be reset if certain driving parameters are not met, but this only applies to OBD2 vehicles (typically '96 and newer).

ME THAT THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT NEEDS TO GET HOT TWICE A WEEK (IN FLORIDA) TO KEEP THE CPU
FROM GOING OUT . IS THAT TRUE ?

- Well, it may be good to get the engine warm to evaporate condensation. Required? No. Recommended? Not really.

WAS TOLD BY NAPA THAT I WOULD NEED SPECIFIC CPU NUMBERS
FROM MY UNIT TO GET THE CORRECT REBUILT REPLACEMENT . IS THE NO EGR
FEATURE GOING TO MAKE THAT DIFFICULT IF NECESSARY ?

It can be difficult to match them up, but shouldn't be much of a challenge for a parts specialist.

You may have a bad computer, as lack of communication with the computer is often a sign of computer failure. First, unplug sensors one by one, noting any one of the sensors allows the Key On/Off method to work or your scan tool to communicate. If your scanner is intended for use on this car, do you know if it's compatible? Sometimes a shorted sensor can shut down the computer (most often seen on Chrysler products).

Copy and Paste the following link into your Address Bar-

http://search.ebay.com/dynasty-ecm_W0QQ_trksidZm37QQfromZR40

There are some good prices on ECM's at Ebay. Also try your local salvage yards. If you can get a used ECM for $20 or so, I think it would be worth that much to see if it was the problem. If you wanted the piece of mind of new ECM, you could still replace new after confirming the original is bad.

The reason it is worth something to try a used one is because there is the most accurate way to confirm a bad computer (normal tree diagnostics using a dealer scan tool, can be inaccurate). This is why I recommend unplugging the sensors first.

1989 Dodge Dynasty All Part Groups Won't Start  

not getting fire to the coil, checked on board codes and no. 42 and 13 came up. 13 has to do with the map sensor, and 42 with the ecm. i have readouts for these, but i don't know where the asd relay is to check it.

found a fusable link that was broke and fixed that and it ran for a couple of days and died going down the road and hasn't run since, that's when i ran the codes.

The ASD relay is on the left fender area. There are several identical relays mounted there. Try swapping several to see which one makes the difference, then replace it. The pickup coil in the distributor can also be a cause of this problem.
Dale

i have tried a new distributor, pick-up coil, different relay's, rotor bug, different ecm and still nothing i do is working, does this model have a crank angle sensor, or positioning sensor,and if so where would it be located, and is their anything else that i could check for this problem.

Which engine do you have?

its a 3.0, but i think i know what the problem is, the distributor doesn't move when i turn the motor over so i think the timing belt is broken, thanks again.

I think you are right! A new problem you never had before. Best wishes,
Dale

1989 Dodge Dynasty Engine   

I have a 1989 Dodge Dynasty. The car will shut off while going down the road. At times it will not crank at all, but it does turn over. I have replaced the following parts on the car: Coil, Plug, Wires, Distrubutor Cap and Button, Computer, Fuel pump and Strainer, Map sensor, Auto Shut Off Relay, Purge selnoid and also fuel filter. Please Help!!!

Hello, If it starts it will pass every test known.

When it quits running and will turn over but not start (the condition is present) please check for spark and for fuel pressure. What do you find?

The computer needs a signal to determine the engine is turning over to index administration of fuel and spark. Should this signal fail to be generated while the engine is turning over the computer doesn't "know" the engine is turning. This means the engine won't start, or if running, will die.

The sensor I am referring to is the crankshaft position sensor and in some engines the camshaft position sensor generates the needed signal.

What engine does you car have?

Roger

The car has a 2.5 liter, 4 cyl.

I forgot there is no spark when trying to crank the car.

That is a great beginning. Did you get the chance to verify fuel....is your engine fuel injected? If it is and at the time there is no spark we next want to know if the fuel injectors are firing.

Testing the fuel injectors is pretty simple. With the key on disconnect the easiest injector connector you can get to. Test for voltage present on each of the wires in the connector. One should have voltage.

Using a dc volt meter touch one of the meter leads to one of the wire terminals in the injector connector and the other lead to the other terminal in the connector. Crank the engine and watch the meter for voltage pulsation indicated. A steady reading would indicate the injector is not firing, a pulse in voltage indicates the injector is firing.

This sets the path to repair. If there is no spark and the injectors are also not firing there will likely be a sensor fault.

If you have no spark but you do have injector pulse we direct our efforts to the ignition system.

Make any sense?

Roger

The injectors are firing. I have just bought a ignition switch (yesterday), but I have not had time to put it on. I'm not sure how to put it on or where it goes.

Low fuel pressure effects fuel injector performance too.

So, is it our position that when the engine turns over it has fuel injector pulse but no spark? When you find this to be the case do you have power to the ignition coil?

Roger

There is power to the ignition coil but it is not 12 volts.

The PCM operates the ignition coil through the ASD relay. When the relay is energized by the PCM, battery voltage is connected to the ignition coil positive terminal. The PCM will de-energize the ASD relay if it does not receive an input from the distributor pick-up.

TESTING FOR SPARK AT COIL
WARNING
Spark plug cables may be damaged if this test is performed with more than 1⁄4 inch (6mm) clearance between the cable and an engine ground.

Remove the coil secondary cable from the distributor cap. Hold the end of the cable about 1⁄4 inch (6mm) away from a good engine ground. Crank the engine and inspect for spark at the coil secondary cable.

There must be a constant spark at the coil secondary cable. If the spark is constant, have a helper continue to crank the engine and, while slowly moving the coil secondary cable away from the ground, look for arcing at the coil tower. If arcing occurs at the tower, replace the coil with a new one.

If a constant spark is present and no arcing occurs at the coil tower, the ignition system is producing the necessary high secondary voltage. However, make sure that the spark plugs are firing. Inspect the distributor rotor, cap, spark plug cables, and spark plugs — refer to Section 1. If they are in proper working order, the ignition system is not the reason why the engine will not start. Inspect the fuel system and engine for proper operation.


What is the voltage at the coil? The wiring diagram I have doesn't show an inline resistor to lower the voltage to the coil.

Is the car battery in good condition and charged up?

Roger

The coil gets about 2.5 to 3 with the key in the start position. Plugs, wires, distrebutor cap and button have all been checked.

With the key in the start position and the engine cranking you would read a voltage drop.

Is there battery volts present at the coil with the key on and the engine not running?

Roger

With the key in the start position and the engine cranking you would read a voltage drop.

The key is only in the start position, not trying to crank it.

Is there battery volts present at the coil with the key on and the engine not running?

Yes, about2.5 to 3 volts.

That is way too low. Should be the same voltage as the battery.

Roger

I know but I can't seem to figure it out.

Do you have a wiring diagram?

The coil is supposed to get battery voltage when the ASD Relay energizes.

What is the output voltage of the ASD Relay?

Roger