i have intermittent starting problems. when i turn the key to start the van either starts or it does nothing (still have all other power on just no turning over). if i try again it will eventually start.
Roger -
Hello, How many miles on this one? Have you disconnected, cleaned and reconnected the battery cable connections? There may be hidden corrosion effecting the flow of amps to the starter.
When the starter doesn't work and you have power in the van do the headlamps dim at all when you turn the key to start?
Please advise,
Roger
New User -
it is a 2002 not a 2007 my bad. there is 112000 miles on it and it appears all electrical power is operating normally. i have not removed the battery connectors and cleaned them but have cleaned them in place. would you still have full power to everything except starter if the are corroded? they look good from the outside
Roger -
The key to battery connections is that they allow AMPS to flow at a premium. It doesn't take many amps to operate dome lights or small systems.
A starter needs about 175 amps to operate depending on temperature. Everything you can see about a battery connection is outside of the actual contacting surfaces. I'd take a look just to get that possibility eliminated.
I have diagnostic code p 2302, Ihave replaced the coil pack ,the plug wires ,and the spark plugs. I disconnected the possitive battery cable for one hour and checked codes again, there were none. Upon restarting the vehicle it still runs rough ,will not rev, and I again have code p 2302.
Bruce Kit -
Not an unusual scenario, I have seen bad coil pack wiring harnesses from that era.
The dealer stocks these normally, so that might mean that it is a reoccuring problem.
New User -
I was just able to change computer setting to receive your response to my problem. I had decided that the coil pack was defective off the shelf but lack the know-how and specs to test it myself. So we are clear the coil packs are not available thru parts companies and are dealer items and are MOPAR, the plugs are Bosch platinum plus. and the plug wires are Auto Zone silicone after market. Is there anything else that could be contributing to this problem ? wise I will remove the coil pack and return it to the dealer in the morning in the hope they can check it and if neccisary replace it. please respond.
Bruce Kit -
The coil packs could be defective, but I am also concerned about the wiring for the coil packs.A digilal vold/ohm meter is mandatory when troubleshooting.
Just wondering....warranty expired I am assuming?
New User -
I can obtain a volt/ohmn meter btu do not know what I'm looking for, out of my league
Bruce Kit -
Using an ohm meter it is simple to test both of the ends of any wire and/or connector to determine the resistance or continuity.The meter (if new) should have a simple manual or instruction booklet.
New User -
By the way, yes out of warranty 100,000+. My problem is locating both ends of the wires in question, I have a Haynes manual but it does not have an ignition schematic, does the plug at the coil pack go back to the brain location? Am I looking for open circuit or just increased resistance?
Bruce Kit -
You are looking for (probably
a bad connection, increased resistance.
New User -
I've managed a print out of diagnostic, it's Monday more tangible support. It reads
Definition
Ingnition coil secondary num. 1 circuit condition.
Explination
ECM detected an erratic signal from the ignition coil secondary circuit.
Probable causes
1.)Faulty spark plug or coil boot.
2.)Failed ignition coil.
I've determined that the center coil which fires cylender's 4 & 1 is not firing. Bad coil?
Bruce Kit -
If the wiring and connectors are fine then yes a faulty coil.
New User -
Thank you for all your help, I have your site in my favorites and will recommend you to everyone, sut hope I don't have to see you soon!
I was driving at 30 mph when the van automatically when into a lower gear then back to the proper gear. Immediately after the engine light came on. We're overseas and spent $60 to have someone tell us the code is P0700. What can I do to fix it?
Roger -
Hi, This from Chrysler:
P0700 Information Code
The Transaxle Control Module (TCM) monitors the malfunction of sensors and actuators relating to transaxle control. If any malfunction is detected, the TCM informs the PCM by sending a signal (P0700 code). P0700 means that a code has been set in the TCM.
This code is for information ONLY. If this code is present, check for transaxle codes.
So basically, the P0700 code is telling you to check the TCM for a transaxle DTC. The TCM can not turn on the check engine light so it has the PCM do it.
You'll need the transaxle DTC to know how/where to proceed. May have a solenoid problem happening due to the event you described.
Roger
New User -
I have not had an incident with the transmission since that one time which turned on the light. All mechanics here are off for the holidays (and were booked solid before) so I can't take it in till the middle of January.
The engine light went out...
Does that mean it corrected itself or should I still take it in? Thank you so much for your reply!
Roger -
If it were mine I'd wait for a code repeat before I did anything else at all.
After a number (usually 50) of consecutive ignition key cycles without a repeat of the condition that first caused the code to set, the computer will indeed turn the light off. For whatever reason the vehicle's systems are passing all self checks. Consistantly.
If you are satisfied with current drivability I would avoid further expense. Not one driver alert is being triggered by monitored sensors in the drive train. It will pass any test a technician can think of and you don't need a bill to pay to be assured reliability has returned.
Code P0700 and whatever TCM code there is will be available as history codes should the future call for further investigation.
Roger
New User -
Thank you so very much!! Happy New Year!!
Roger -
Happy New Year to you as well!!!
Ready to close this question? Just click on OK to finish up.
2004 Dodge Grand Caravan Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
All the lights on the vehicle pulse, not completely off but dim just a little. The pulse rate is just under a second. A new batt, and alt did not cure the problem.
Roger -
Hello, Ensure you have a ground wire from the battery negative post to the vehicle body in addition to the frame or powertrain.
You also need a ground from the powertrain to the vehicle body.
Are all of these grounds present, clean and tight?
Roger
New User -
the batt tem is good and i cleand the connection to the block and it still pulses,i dont have any idea where else too look on a 04.
Roger -
If all three of the ground wires I mentioned are in place and in good condition monitor the alternator voltage output with a multimeter. If it is pulsing with the lights show that to the parts store where you bought it and ask for a replacement.
Roger
New User -
i was fiddilng around with the relay blocks, and it has seems take care of the problem. no thanks to gravel roads.....
Roger -
Did you find anything odd about the way the relays fit or connections to the power strips?
2002 Dodge Grand Caravan Heating / Cooling System Malfunction When driving Always
New User Asked -
Our cooling system stays on always, with no ability to turn off the fan. The controller for air flow cannot be adjusted, when the knob is turned the fan blows at the same level. If I turn off the system, it appears off but the fan starts blowing harder and principally from the right hand side.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Douglas -
Try disconnecting the battery cables for ten minutes. With the cables still disconnected touch the cables together for a few seconds. This should reset the control modules and hopefully fix the problem. Let me know.
bamaredneck -
replace the control head (piece knobs are hooked to)
New User -
Gave that a try, but to no avail. Any other thoughts?
-Any thing else you'd like to know about the problem - any more -detail I can provide. Also, if easier, my mobile is [redacted] ,
Thanks in advance,
Erik
bamaredneck -
follow the wires that plug into the blower motor they should lead to a thermostatic resister unplug it and see if blower stays off if so check power going into thermostatic resistor while all knobs are off if no power replace if power go to blower motor relay do the same
front ac blows hot air back ac is cold the compressor is engaged showing full
Roger -
Hello, This will very likely be a blend door actuator has failed.
The actuator is above and to the right of the accelerator pedal on the side of the hvac plenum case. Some models have two such actuators. One for the driver side front and another for the passenger side front air temperature control.
When my a/c is on it blows cold air out of the passenger vents and hot air from the drivers side vents.
Roger -
Hello, There are two dc motors that control the temperature doors for your van. One for the driver and the other for the passenger. Obviously the one for the driver has failed or something has happened to the door itself. Usually the motor is the problem.
The part will be a Dealership part item. If you remove the hush panel below the left side of the dash and the trim panel/knee bolster from below the steering column for access you will see both white color actuator motors that are shaped like a playing card above the gas pedal and on the side wall of the black HVAC Case. Each has it's own connector and perhaps three mount screws.
If you turn the key on but don't start the engine and make a radical change in temperature on the a/c panel you should be able to place your hand on each motor case to determine which won't run.
As a temporary fix you can unplug the connector from the motor that runs and plug it into the motor that will not run. Then put the temp on full heat. (This motor runs backwards from the other so if you set the temp on full heat and the motor will work just this once it will run the driver temp door to full cold.) If you are successful unplug the driver's actuator motor and leave it disconnected. Turn the key off.
Set the a/c temp back on full cold. Plug the passenger actuator motor back in. Turn the key on. Start the vehicle and see if you have cooling.
Please advise what happened as there may be another test to run before you close it up.
Roger
New User -
I actually have a grand caravan sport. It seems to have some different features. I'm not sure what the dc in dc motors stands for. I have 3 black actuators underneath on the hvac box to the right of the gas pedal. I didn't see any white boxes like cards. I will look again. I tried to reset the hvac by holding down the circulation button and power button and they started blinking but would not stop.
Roger -
dc stands for direct current.
Ok, the most of the actuators I have seen were white in color, but let's do this ...
Please tell me your email address and I will send you a pic to guide you.
Thanks,
Roger
New User -
[redacted]
Roger -
Thank you! If you do not see my email please check your junk/spam mail filters.
Roger
New User -
how difficult is it to fix a door problem. My haynes manual said to reset the system. If it continues to blink that i have to take it and havee it reset by the dealer???
Roger -
If indeed you have a door problem as opposed to an actuator problem the instrument panel and sometimes the steering column have to come out.
If the actuator motor has failed no attempt to reset the system will be successful as the problem has not been addressed.
Have you tried my suggestion of swapping the electrical connectors to the actuator motors? You won't cause trouble so long as the key is off anytime you plug/unplug a connector.
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving Always
New User Asked -
1. "Door ajar" warning comes on and stays when car is in drive and a gong sounds each time I start moving forward from a traffic stop, although doors are not ajar.
2. Interior lights do not go on and off in response to remote control lock as they used to do, and I must turn the interior light adjuster to the "all the way down" position to turn them off at all.
3. Automatic door lock is no longer activated at 15 mph, so must lock manually while driving. Remote key works OK for entry and after exit.
All of these problems occurred within a very narrow time frame after 2 days of heavy rain and strong winds in our area. However, the van was parked and locked throughout and there was no flooding.
Local Dodge service department on phone first suggested door jam switch or dimmer switch, then mentioned body control module. Estimate to replace BCM was 500-800. If that's it, can it be re-programmed instead of replaced? Can a storm mess up programming? Could it be just fuses?
New User -
Additional Info- This morning I vacuumed the van - first time since the big rain. Carpet on right front passenger side is SOAKED, squishy wet especially in area between seat and door, and extending under the floor mat.
Roger -
Hello, I always start by checking fuses when an electrical system acts up. I realize the carpet was discovered wet, but unless the path of ingress included the body module or it's systems connectors I wouldn't panic yet.
I'd have to research to learn the location of the body module in your vehicle. Do you happen to know? I'll gladly find out for you if you don't. I do not know of a body module that has upgradable memory and I doubt reprogramming can be done. A coin, paper clip, staple or gum wrapper that gets into a cigar lighter socket will blow a fuse. So will a phone charger, radar detector or a laptop computer if the plug gets loose or cocked when you are plugging it in.
Have you found a bad fuse? Can you tell how/where the water came in to soak the carpet?
Roger
New User -
THANK YOU for your prompt reply, suggestions, and offer to help. This is a strange story.Before I had a chance to follow up, it seems the problem has solved itself with a little help. After I discovered the wet carpet I put down terry cloth towels to soak up the water. Yesterday (28th) I noticed still wet under the right front mat, so put down more dry towels, which I removed this morning. Started the van up today and everything is working fine. It must have been the water. Wind blew so hard it must have blown rain under the door. (We raked and bagged about 2 tons of leaves and pine needles from 4 buildings and roofs, so the wind was pretty strong.)
ALSO, this van has an inverter, extra battery, and 3 AC plugs, all installed by previous owner. One of the plugs is on the floor next to the right front passenger door, and I was using it to plug my vacuum when I discovered the wet carpet. The plug worked fine, but I figure maybe some wiring or connection in that area got wet.
The manual chair recliner lever on the two front bucket seats has never worked smoothly. Now, one of the levers has completely broke inside (under) the cover. Looks like a spring-type mechanism. How easy is this to replace? Can we do this ourselves?
macconeck -
yes you can change or repair it
there should be four bolts under the seat holding it down,you will need a rachet to remove them and the seat comes right out
New User -
how hard is it to find the replacement part (lever mechanism)? Is this a common problem on this van?
macconeck -
any junkyard would sell that part you need or you can try pick-a-part and take it off yourself ,it is a common part and inexpensive
1999 Dodge Grand Caravan All Part Groups When driving
New User Asked -
My van gave off the codes PO700 and PO731. I was wondering if this is something I can fix or if I have to take it in. I was thinking maybe the speed sensor? My van is idling fast. It shifts between 20-30 and then will not shift again till 50 or 60 and it runs 3.5- 4 rpms at 45-50.
thanks
Douglas -
I recommend resetting the computer. Disconnect the negative battery cable and press the brake pedal (to clear any charge in capacitors). Reconnect and test drive. Any change in idle or shift quality? Keep a record of the trouble codes you are erasing.
I assume you got the free code reading at an autoparts store, or do you have the digital dash?
New User -
so, If I disconnect it, it may help even with the shifting?
thanks
Douglas -
The idea is to start fresh, if the transmission has internal problems or a constant electrical failure there will be no improvement. Let me know the results and we'll go from there.
New User -
We did that and when I took it for a test drive the light came back on and the shifting did not change to normal.
Douglas -
Recheck the codes (free at Autozone,etc), if you have the same codes you probably should take it in as a scantool is necessary to perform tests.
Does it always idle fast, hot & cold engine? Did the shifting and fast idle appear at the same time?
New User -
Yes, It has the same codes. I took it to the repair man I usually do and they said a lot of codes showed up for the transmission so, they recommended me to a transmission shop.
Douglas -
That is best, make sure they warranty their work.
New User -
it was the input sensor.
thanks for your help
Douglas -
Has the idle returned to normal?
It looks like the news was very good. Multiple trouble codes on the transmission usually leads to trans replacement or module replacement- both of course expensive.
1999 Dodge Grand Caravan Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
Car stalling when going slow, under 5 mph. Lights indicating the gear shift, and odometer blink, shimmer,etc. Sometimes it runs fine, but other times it will have the ABS light come on , and then the battery light will come on , followed by the little warning bell (ding). It usually drives fine , but lately it seems to be getting worse, with it wanting to stall when you are moving slow ex. pulling into a parking space, or pulling up to a stop sign.Noticed when the door locks lock automatically they make the overhead counsole look like it's just starting up, all the leds come on just like it's starting up again. I have replaced the battery and alternator, but it hasn't helped at all. I think it's either the ECM or the BCM or both. What do you think?
Douglas -
More likely the BCM than ECM. Have you checked the trouble codes? You can use the Key On/Off method but I'd prefer a code reader be used. Autozone will pull the codes free of charge. Let me know which, if any codes are there. If you have a 'bus' code it may be a problem with the instrument cluster.
Many of these products have problems with the instrument clusters, more specifically the wiring to the cluster. Contact your dealer with you VIN number handy and ask if there is TSB that applies to your van.
New User -
What is the key on/off method, and how do I do it ? What is a TSB? Is it most likely the instruement cluster or at the connection to the cluster? When the car stalled last time it did nothing when we went to crank it up. No lights on the dash no nothing,it took about 30s - 60s and it was possible to start it back up. Like it reset or something. Does that sound about right? I will contact the dealer Monday morning and ask about the TSB. What is my next course of action? Do I go out and buy a BCM, and if so where do I get one? Should it be new , used or remanufactured? Should I remove the instruement cluster and look for problems at the connection point?
Douglas -
It really depends on your skill level.
TSB- Technical Service Bulletin-- Given to vehicles (usually determined by VIN) when the factory determines a commmon problem to notify the dealership service department.
Do you have a local autozone? They will loan you a code reader for a fully refundable deposit. Call ahead to make sure they offer the service. Check the trouble cods, and let me know which ones you find. The key On/Off method is not typically reliable for the particular problem you are having.
Ignition switch remains in the lock position.Independant of the sterring wheel position.Behaves as if a security switch is not being made when the key is inserted into the switch.
Roger -
Hello, I know of no security switch that prevents the ignition key from turning the ignition switch. Only a mechanical problem would cause this if the key is the correct cut.
Can the steering wheel be turned?
Roger
Roger -
I hope you are well. Please forgive my being delayed to reply to you before this evening.
I live near Oklahoma City, OK and we are dealing with an ice storm that came through Oklahoma Saturday Dec. 8th. We lost power for six days due to severe damage to the states' power grids. More than 650,000 homes and businesses are effected.
makes a clunking noise going forward only it is an all wheel drive
kcheycat -
the noise started after stopping at a stop light after traveling 30 miles
Douglas -
Hello,
Where do you hear the noise? In the front end, drive train, rear, etc.
Is the noise continous?
During acceleration only?
kcheycat -
the noise changes from a click in the front to a hard metal CLUNK at about 7 MPH in the rear I just drove it again and the noise did not change to a clunk until about 25 MPH under harder acceleration It does not make any noise backing up no matter how fast you go This is an AWD model and by looking under the van while moving you can see the drivline move up and down slightly at slower speeds and more when it clunks
Douglas -
Check the universal joints to rule these out.
Try going slow around a (sharp) corner, and accelerate slightly. Does this make the noise show up more quickly?
kcheycat -
they appear to be tight ,and the noise basicly is always there it just gets louder the quicker you go
kcheycat -
i just tried driving again and found out that the softer clanking noise becomes the heavy metal clunking sound when de-accelerating (coasting). it is hard to determine if the sound is front or rear but I beleive it to be front all CV joints seem to be tight and the boots are not torn, I could not get them to move in or out or up and down so thry are probably ok
Douglas -
Apply the brake, IN A SAFE AREA as a little error in judgement could cause the vehicle to lurch.., and shift from drive to reverse while appyling a little gas and see if you get the noise to repeat.
1998 Dodge Grand Caravan All Part Groups Malfunction Happens always Always
New User Asked -
windshield wipers work on intermediate only. Hi speed does not work. They park when the key is turned off. I have replaced the switch in the steering column & no difference. I checked the relays & they are ok. not sure where to go next. Hate to just keep throwing parts on it that.
Sterlingfixer -
Hi,
First, check your switch and relay condition by turning the wiper on and listening closely under the dash for a click when you switch from low to high speed. If not ok, check wiper switch, hi/low relay or the white wire between them.
If ok, then check the red/yellow and the brown/white wires at the wiper motor. Check voltages with everything connected. One is high speed, one is low speed. Each should show power on one setting and ground on the other. If ok, replace motor
If not ok, and one never has power, replace motor. If one never has ground, check the high/low relay or the the wires between the relay and the motor.
You will soon be able to see clearly again when it rains!
Dale
1998 Dodge Grand Caravan All Part Groups Malfunction When starting No pattern
New User Asked -
I think my security system is messed up. This has happened 3 times now and this time my van won't start. When I start my van it only stays on about 2-3 seconds then shuts off. After trying to start it a couple times it won't turn over at all. My stepfather got it to start twice before by unhooking the battery for a while then jumping it. It is not my battery. It would run fine for about a week, then it will happen again. This time it won't start. I heard that I need a code to reset the system and it will cost me $700.00.
kaptnzog -
O.K.,you say your stepfather got it started by diconecting the battery and then jumping it.When the battery is disconnected the system somtimes resets itself.Check the battery itself to see if it is supplying proper voltage.One of your local parts houses can do a load test on it and its usualy free of charge.While you're there check and see if they offer diagnostic scaning also.I do know some offer this free or at a nominal charge also.If your system has a hand held remote device,check the batteries in it also.A charge of $700 dollars is ludicurious to reset a code unless the system itself needs to be replaced.If it is an actual MOPAR system,I can possibily see where they want to soak you on it.If it is the system,a good auto electrician can either bypass it or you can get an aftermarket system for probably a 1/4 of the price.
Good Luck,
Paul
1998 Dodge Grand Caravan Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start When starting Always
New User Asked -
van was running fine yesterday. today will not start. when attempting start, just get clicking noise. while attempting start the power locks "sound" as if they are locking and unlocking. I then attempted to jump start the van. After several minutes, it finally took the jump. I drove for about 5 miles. During this time the A/C lights were flashing while driving. I turned the ignition off and then attempted to start again, only to have only "clicking" sound. Thanks for your input
Sterlingfixer -
Sounds like either a bad battery or bad battery connections. There may also be something draining the battery, or the alternator may be not recharging the battery. Watch the interior lights when you are able to start the van, the should be brighter when running than when the van is turned off. This confirms that alternator is charging.
1998 Dodge Grand Caravan Heating / Cooling System Malfunction When driving Always
New User Asked -
The lights flash on the heater, ac controls after i changed the battery. I tried taking the neg cable off for 5 minutes and that did not work what is the series of pushing the buttons to get it to stop? Thanks Bob
Douglas -
Select high fan/blower speed
Place selector for airflow to panel
Set temp to cold.
Depress washer and rear wiper button at the same time for several seconds till lights activate.
Wait till lights stop their flashing sequence then press the rear wiper to finish.
Let me know if these instructions work. BTW- I think your owners manual has the reset procedure.
Tip- When resetting the computer, disconnect the battery cables for five minutes then touch the terminals together (still disconnected from the battery of course). This will drain any capicators that still may be charged.
1998 Dodge Grand Caravan Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
New User Asked -
I seem to have the blinking dash light issue others have had before me. This began after the battery was run down. I disconected the battery for about 10 minutes anthis did not correct the problem. What is the sequence for pressing the buttons to correct this or do I need to go to a dealer? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Bob
Gro -
After or assuming you have tested for trouble codes, and knowing you have disconnected battery to no avail. Try pulling fuses, (ones in case near battery) not sure exactly which one to tell you on the dodge, but by knowing what they are for you should be able to realize which fuses to pull , and then reinsert to see if this corrects your problem. If this doesnt work Dodge does use a tool called a Chrysler DRB (there are others that do same job) you may need to take to a shop and have codes cleared to stop the blinking.
heres a quick instruction to read codes ...
READING CODES USING MIL (CHECK ENGINE) LAMP
Be advised that the MIL, CHECK ENGINE, or SERVICE ENGINE SOON light can only perform a limited number of functions, and it is a good idea to have the system checked with a scan tool to double check the circuit function.
Within a period of 5 seconds, cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON.
Count the number of times the MIL (check engine or service engine soon lamp) on the instrument panel flashes on and off. If it is not located at the bottom of the instrument cluster, then it is located in the information center on the dashboard above the instrument cluster.
The number of flashes represents the trouble code. There is a short pause between the flashes representing the 1st and 2nd digits of the code. Longer pauses are used to separate individual 2-digit trouble codes.
An example of a flashed DTC is as follows:
Lamp flashes 4 times, pauses, then flashes 6 more times. This denotes a DTC number 46.
Lamp flashes 5 times, pauses, then flashes 5 more times. This indicates a DTC number 55. DTC 55 will always be the last code to be displayed.
This being said, I can also send trouble codes if needed.
New User -
I'm not sure if I was specific as to which lights were blinking. They are the six lights in the buttons for rear wipers,washers, intermittent, rear defrost, recirculation and AC. I have been told they can be reprogrammed but no one seems to be able to remember the sequence to do so. I am able to change the way the lights flash by pressing the left top bottom buttons simultaneously. Another person apparently had the same problem and was advised to email you guys for the answer so the answer is out there somewhere. End.
Gro -
give me a little time to research your problem and I will get back to you. thanks
Gro -
Try this...and get back to me. This if for instrumentation trouble reading, which may solve your problem and may not. if not I will return in a bit and redetermine what you need to solve problem with more information,
Thanks.
Place key into ignition, press and hold both "TRIP" and "RESET" while turning the key to the "RUN" position. Continue to hold both buttons in until odometer displays "CODE". Release buttons. The display will then display "999". Afterward it will display "CHECK 0" and test the analog gauges. It will then display "CHECK 1" and test the digital displays
New User -
I tried what you asked without any results. I still think we are not talking about the same thing. The lights that are flashing are the small(approx 1/16th inch) lights on the buttons that let you know that those accessories are on. The rear wipers, rear intermittent wipers, defrost, AC etc, Six buttons located by the heater temp controls.
Gro -
Bob,
I do know what you are talking about but dont have the answer for you. so I am going to release this question , which is probably a simple answer, and let some one that has dealt with this issue solve your problem.
Good luck
New User -
Thanks for your help, hope the next guy has the answer.
Douglas -
Select 'high' fan/blower speed.
Place selector for airflow to 'panel'.
Set temp to 'cold'.
Depress 'washer' and 'rear wiper' buttons at the same time for several seconds till lights activate.
Wait till lights stop their flashing sequence then press the rear wiper to finish.
Let me know if these instructions work. BTW- Your owners manual may have the reset procedure.
New User -
I followed your instructions and got it to the point where the only lights flashing were on the recirculation and AC buttons. Should engine be running and warmed up? I checked the owners manual and could find nothing. Going to bed now, will check in the morning to see if you have any other ideas. Thank you.
New User -
Have not had a response to my reply last night, just wondering if you had any other thoughts.
Bob
Douglas -
Sorry for the delay. Try the instructions found at the following link-
I'm not sure why, but sometimes it takes different variations of the reset procedure. Let me know if it works.
New User -
I reviewed the link you gave me and ran the test on my car. End result is the recirclating and AC led's continue to flash simultaneously. From reviewing the info in the link it seems that I have failed the cooldown test. What next? Take it to dealer or just cover lights with black tape.
Douglas -
I am still looking to see if I can find anything else you can try to avoid a trip to the dealer (or black tape).
Sometimes,when driving for awhile, all the lights on the top panel light up while all the gauges become locked in place (speedometer, gas, heat). Then, randomly everything just resets back to normal.
This is not the real problem but is, perhaps, a clue; Then, sometimes, when the van is hot, (like if I've been driving it for awhile, or if it is sitting in the sun), it will start up, and then die immediately (and the panel lights are all on while the gauges are stuck, as described above). It will do this about 3-5 times, then it won't turn over at all. The radio and windows work, and jumping it does nothing. Then, suddenly after a few minutes or hours sometimes, it just starts again like nothing was ever wrong.
Please help. We've had this in the shop several times, and spent a lot of money, and it still does this.
Thanks.
Douglas -
The first thing I want you to do is check trouble codes. If you need instructions let me know. Also Advance Auto and Autozone will check the codes free of charge.
It sounds like you are losing fuel pressure. Possibly the relay or the pump itself. Hopefully the trouble code(s) will help point to the problem. Let me know what you find and we'll go from there.
“Random” no start problems with my 98 Dodge Caravan -
I have a 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan. Several months ago I started having (random) no start problems. I tried to start it, it started, then died right down. I started it again, it started, then died right down, again -- then it wouldn't even try to start (like it was a dead battery "but wasn't"). After sitting for 20 - 30 minutes -- the van would start and run fine and would continue to start up fine for several weeks. Now, several times a week -- the van decides when it doesn't want to start, but letting it sit for 20 - 30 minutes doesn't work anymore. I have to wait overnight and the next day - go out and it starts ?? It's been put on a computer and it reports no problems. We notice that when it wont start that the lights on the dash do not work.Any help/suggestions would be appreciated
Bruce Kit -
If the random no start problem is increasing in frequency, I might look at the starter.There are some contacts inside that get worn.A reman starter or a repair kit, if you are on a budget.
A starter problem will not set any codes.
First check the battery connections and those on starter.
New User -
The starter will turn the motor over and the van will start and run for 10 to 15 seconds and then stop running. If we try to start it several times then it will not turn over at all.
Bruce Kit -
Could be a crank or cam position sensor.Chryslers sometimes have this integrated in the dist.
You can test for codes yourself, by turning the key to on/off position 3 times (on not start)leaving on.The check engine lights will flash a code or sequence IE five flashes pause five flashes (code 55)
New User -
I will check to see if this code shows up on the next no start. Will the cam sensor effect the dash lights? We have changed the ignitions switch. This is a frustrating problem has it only happens when we are away from a shop. When we have the car towed to a shop by the time it gets there it will start and no code show up on the computer.
New User - Douglas -
If the dash lights are going out you are losing power somewhere. Start by checking the battery cables, grounds, fuses, etc. These are also known to have some wiring corrosion problems (notably around the transmission area).
New User -
The cables are in good shape we have checked these out. The head lights and dome lights work it is just the istrument lights that go out at the same time the car will not stay running. The problem is never consitant it will go for weeks with no problem and then it will happen several day in a row but never when at the shop. Just to make sure you understand what is going on i will try to explane. When we start the car it will run for 15 to 20 seconds and then it dies. After that it will do the same thing 5 or 6 times and then nothing will turn over at all. The lights in the car will work just not the dash lights (odometor lights and gages). I hope this helps.
New User -
I have a 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan. Several months ago I started having (random) no start problems. I tried to start it, it started, then died right down. I started it again, it started, then died right down, again -- then it wouldn't even try to start (like it was a dead battery "but wasn't"). After sitting for 20 - 30 minutes -- the van would start and run fine and would continue to start up fine for several weeks. Now, several times a week -- the van decides when it doesn't want to start, but letting it sit for 20 - 30 minutes doesn't work anymore. I have to wait overnight and the next day - go out and it starts ??
Bruce Kit -
Might be best to have a Tech hook up a Scanner (IE Snap On) and take it for a road test, trying to watch the fuel inj systems and the ignition, seeing which is the problem.I've had customers leave their cars for several days and I used their cars for the short trip home, hoping the problem surfaces.
Douglas -
Is the dash warnging lights that are going out (IE- check engine light)?
If yes unplug sensors one by one, and recheck to see if the check engine light returns. Sometimes a shorting sensors will shut things down on chrysler products (most frequently the camshaft/crank sensors).
1998 Dodge Grand Caravan - 3.0L The positive battery cable is corroded all the way through. I went to Advance Auto Parts for a replacement part. They sold me part# A2640060 from Autocraft. It appears to be different from the existing cable. Is this the right part and if so how do I switch it out? Do I have to remove the fuse housing?
Roger -
Hello, match the cable to the original. Additional leads may have to be added if found on the original cable but not present on the replacement. The length and size of the wire should be correct. Advance also sells a universal cable that has provision to splice additional lead wires as needed.
Disconnecting the Cables
Chrysler Caravan/Voyager/Town and Country 1[redacted]
Always disconnect the negative battery cable when servicing any electrical component on the vehicle
When working on any electrical component on the vehicle, it is always a good idea to disconnect the negative (-) battery cable. This will prevent potential damage to many sensitive electrical components such as the Engine Control Module (ECM), radio, alternator, etc.
Any time you disengage the battery cables, it is recommended that you disconnect the negative (-) battery cable first. This will prevent your accidentally grounding the positive (+) terminal to the body of the vehicle when disconnecting it, thereby preventing damage to the above mentioned components.
Before you disconnect the cable(s), first turn the ignition to the OFF position. This will prevent a draw on the battery which could cause arcing (electricity trying to ground itself to the body of a vehicle, just like a spark plug jumping the gap) and, of course, damaging some components such as the alternator diodes.
When the battery cable(s) are reconnected (negative cable last), be sure to check that your lights, windshield wipers and other electrically operated safety components are all working correctly. If your vehicle contains an Electronically Tuned Radio (ETR), don't forget to also reset your radio stations. Ditto for the clock.
The safe way is to disconnect the cables from the battery and then remove any mount clamps along the cable path from one end of the cable to the other to remove it from the vehicle. Route the new cable the same path and reuse the clamps to secure it from damage.
Roger
Roger -
Has this car been fixed? Please update.
Thanks,
Roger
New User -
Yes, but i just ended up splicing and fusing a new terminal onto the old one, because I wasn't sure how to replace the whole cable. It looked to be more than I could handle because it was wrapped up with a whole bundle of other wires. Thanks anyway for your help.
Roger -
To close the question please click on OK to finish up.
1998 Dodge Grand Caravan Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
Car will not start. When key is turned, a relay in the fuse box starts to click rapidly. This clicking can sometimes continue even though the key is removed.There are no lights on dash. Car was jumped and started and got home. Put charger on battery and now there are lights on dash and the starter tries to engage, but can not turn engine
Bruce Kit -
Have the battery tested as well as the alternator. It is cheap to do, even if you have to remove the battery.
As a temporary measure, beg, buy or borrow a battery charger. This will get you on the road temporarily.
Most cars today with their computers require lots of voltage.
If battery is five years old or more, suspect it, as average lasts 5 years. Yours will have a date on the tag. Let me know.
Bruce
New User -
I am starting to suspect the battery. I have had a charger on it. Still no go. Put the charger to 50 amps and the dash lights come on. Head ligths work then. with charger off, head lights do not work and relay clicks very load. Opened battery, I see plates, but no water. Off to buy distilled water, will see if that will help it hold a charger. The 50 amp is still not enough to start it.
Bruce Kit -
Put in H2O then charge overnight,I am up 8:00 Pacific time.
1998 Dodge Grand Caravan Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
Trouble that is probably related, is that the fuel gauge low fuel light and chime would sound then go away, fuel gauge dropped slightly during that short signal. Now car won't start. jumped it and drove it home. Would not start at home. Jumped it and drove to parts store. Battery tested ok and fully charged. Have no lights, radio or anything.
When start is tried then key turned off, relay under dash clicks for several minutes.
Last time this happened a new starte solved the problem for the short run, till it wouldn't start again. Ended up being a short in the dash cluster. Resoldered contacts, and have not have trouble for several months
Roger -
Hi, Symptoms include no lights, radio, anything?, won't start without jump start, relay clicking for several minutes if key is switched off after a failed start attempt without using a jump start assist. Did I get that right? When you jump start the vehicle do any of the inoperative electrical systems come back on? Can you identify the relay that clicks rapidly?
Have you looked again at the repair to the instrument cluster? Does it factor here?
Do you have a wiring diagram for power distribution on this van? Have you checked all fuses, maxi-fuses, and fusible links?
Please advise,
Roger
New User -
After jump, vehicle acts normal. No electrical problem except for the fuel gauge, which you left out of the symptoms.
Intrument cluster could be problem again. Still wondering about fuel gauge
Roger -
If soldering the contacts on the instrument cluster fixed things in the past why not start by rechecking that repair?
Do the fuel guage connections on the cluster look ok?
Have you identified the relay that clicks rapidly?
1998 Dodge Grand Caravan Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
Yesterday I goy the van back after exhaust work - new muffler.
Today evening, when I put the key into ignition, nothing happens - no indicators lights nothing - turn the key back and forth - a few gauge light dimly come on and go off - some clickety clack noises from behind dashboard - suddenly all indicators came on and engine started. Reached home and switched off engine.
Later in the night, tried to start - again same erratic lights and noises - doesn't start.
Removed negative cable from battery and reconnected after few minutes. Noticed that positive cable terminal is quite hot - don't know why.
Tried starting again - same behavior - electrical door locks don't respond as well.
Would appreciate any help with this.
John Louis
Bruce Kit -
Remove and clean both battery terminals.Wirebrush or sandpaper ok.
Check charge in battery and have starter and alternator tested. There should be a date code on battery. Anything close to a five year old battery might give you headaches, especially with a cold season approaching.
Try using another vehicle to jump start it. If it starts, still get the battery and charging system checked.
New User -
Earlier in the evening(and several times during the day) as I mentioned all the gauge light came on very bright and car started immediately - I did not think there was a battery problem. In fact yesterday I gave a boost to another car which had run down battery.
New User -
I checked the battery - it was installed new in June 2007. The terminals look quite new.
New User -
Just want to clarify that "New User" of Sep 16/08 8.54 is myself- the originator of the question
Bruce Kit -
If you have acess to a volt meter, test the charging output of the alternator.First test at idle, then test at a higher RPM. Then lastly test under load (Under load, is with all lights on, heater fan on high, rear defog on etc) The alternator output should maintain aprox 12.5 volts - 13-5 volts during all these tests.If a shop is nearby you might have them test it as they can easily test the amperage output at the same time.
1997 Dodge Grand Caravan Engine Making Noise Happens always Always
New User Asked -
The lifters are squeaking on the rocker arms. The rocker arms are getting no oil. The 3.8 litre engine has 231K miles on it. I have changed the rocker arm shaft and rocker arms twice on the front head and once on the back head. What can I do to get the oil to circulate through the rocker arm shafts to the rocker arms again?
Falkeneiz -
you may have to replace the heads as the oil passages are cast into the heads on the shaft journals... I have repaired several Caravans with this problem. Some have actually snapped the rocker shafts in half.
An additional repair would be to replace your oil pump at the same time.. If I can assist you further you can contact me at [redacted] upon acceptance of this response.... Good Luck
1997 Dodge Grand Caravan Heating / Cooling System Leaking Happens always Always
New User Asked -
Lines to back heater core leak when your press on them or engine is running. Is there somewhere to get a diagram of the coolant system? Used internet but must be using wrong keywords. Keywords used: "Dodge Heater Lines", "Dodge Coolant lines", "grand caravan coolant system". Do I have to move the engine?
Falkeneiz -
it sounds like the heater core nipples are rotting or cracking. Unfortunatly the heater core is located behind the dash. most Chrysler products require removal of complete dash assembly to replace the heater core. I only recommend having a qualified Auto Technician perform this. If I can Be of further assistance you can email me directly at [redacted] upon accepting this answer. Thank You for using this forum and good luck
1997 Dodge Grand Caravan Heating / Cooling System Overheating When repairing When warm
New User Asked -
I have a 1997 Dodge Grand Caravan with dual air conditioners (front and back). The evaporator on the front air conditioner was replaced by the dealer mid-July. It has been working perfectly, after years of not working. Two nights ago, the fans to the air conditioner continued to run after the car was shut off. The fans ran for over two hours with the engine shut off before the AAA mechanic disconnected (i.e. unplugged both fans). Local garage said the relay needed to be replaced … no big deal … seemed logical. Garage also said that the air conditioner clutch was overheating (smoking) and also needed to be replaced. Garage also said that the clutch could not be replaced without replacing the compressor … big ticket item. Garage also said that we lost all of our freon and this was the result of an emergency relief valve that is supposed to protect the air conditioner, when the clutch overheats. Garage admitted that they did not see the relationship between the clutch and relay both failing at the same time. Car was not overheating or smoking when we left it. We had the hood open and checked the car every ten minutes until AAA got there two hours later. All engine parts were stone cold. Garage also started a state inspection before the compressor was replaced. We don’t know if they did any part of the inspection before replacing the relay. What could have caused both the fan relay and clutch to fail at the same time? Did the compressor need to be replaced because of the failed clutch?
Les -
Hi:
Most of the time when the clutch burns out it usually the cause of an electrical problem or the compressor is going bad. It is easier to go ahead and replace the compressor clutch assembly, than to replace the clutch and a few weeks later have to replace the compressor. As far as for the fan relay, sounds like coincidence. Les.
1997 Dodge Grand Caravan Heating / Cooling System Malfunction When troubleshooting
New User Asked -
I have a 1997 Dodge Grand Caravan. I have 2 problems 1) The A/C Compressor will not kick on, I can't find the low pressure cut-off switch in the lower pressure line to jump start the compressor. 2) about 2 years ago I started the car up with a battery charger hooked, ever since then the lights on the a/c panel have been blinking. I disconnected the ground for 10 minutes, that didn't reset. What can I do to reset the module? thanks in advance.
Douglas -
First try recalibrating the hvac-
Start the engine.
Turn the a/c off, set temp to cold, set the airflow to blow out the dash, and turn the blower on high. Now presss and hold the rear wiper and rear washer buttons until all lights iluminate. Recalibration should now run. Once it is done there should be one light flashing, press it and the process should be complete.
New User -
after running the reclibration cycle the a/c button and the recirculate button blink simultaneously followed by an alternating rear wiper button blink.
Douglas -
Try again by setting the temp to hot instead of cold. I should of added that once all lights illuminate- release the rear wiper and washer button and allow calbration to run.
New User -
I re-ran the calibration. at the end of the cycle, the a/c and the air recir button were flashing simultaneously.
Douglas -
I recommend an air conditioning shop, if you have high dealer costs in your area. They can check for any diagnostic codes as well as check system pressure. If the pressure is low they will evacuate what remains of the refrigerant/oil mix, then vacuum down the system to see if there is a leak.
Many people are using refrigerants with sealers in them. These can cause costly damage to your AC system. If you have a bad leak it'll only work briefly if at all (or if the sealer isn't applicable to your type of leak, ie- seal leaks vs evaporator leak). These products are also being blamed for damaging refrigerant recovery equipment. All this said, they do perform as advertised some of the time.
1997 Dodge Grand Caravan Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start When starting No pattern
New User Asked -
Over the past several weeks upon starting my van I get all the lights, bells and everything, but it just clicks. If I turn the key off and on 3-4 times it weill eventually start. It's NOT the battery (new). Yesterday I this happened and it did finally start, but I didn't have any power, windows, radio, lights, blinkers, air conditioner, etc. I drove it home turned it off and restarted it, started no prob, all power working. It sat for a couple of hours and I tried starting it again and I get all power but just the clicking, tried jumping it, no go. Not sure if it is the starter, relays, alternator, or solenoid???? Someone told me that there is some type of copper plate that gets fired onto when starting and when it wears out there are holes in it, so when starting it spins therefore, if you keep trying eventually you hit a place on the plate that has not been fired on causing it to start. Is this true?
Also, can get a starter, but don't know how hard it is to replace it. Do you have to pull half the engine or is it a pretty easy installation?
Thanks
kaptnzog -
Your vehicle is equiped with a drivers side aibag.When this happens,does the airbag light blink?The reason I ask is because it sounds like youre getting an itermitant electical feed.The starter itself could be bad,but even if it is grounding out,I have a hard time relating it to no power to the rest of the vehicle when it is running.Try having a diagnostic scan done to see if any problem codes can be retrieved.There are some parts houses offering this service for free or at a nominal charge(AutoZone,Pep boys etc.)If any codes are retrieved,ask if they can supply you with or tell you where you can obtain the proper flow charts to help pinpoint your problem.The reason I brought up the airbag is there is what is called a clock-spring behind your steering wheel.Its a thin reel of copper tape that distributes power while allowing you to turn the steering wheel.Unlike older model cars where yes there was just a solid plate,this coil can sometimes become frail.As for the starter,you may have to remove a few parts to gain access,but its not too difficult a job to do.
Good Luck
Paul
New User -
I took it to a shop and asked for the scan, they wanted $90 to do it, so I took it to a mechanic that I used before and they diagnosed the starter. They want to charge me $425 to replace it. I CANNOT afford that at all so I am hoping you can email me a schematic or something so that I can change the starter myself. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Even the name of a book I can go get at the library to see how this is done.
Thanks much! Renee
kaptnzog -
Pick up a Hayes or Chilton repair manual at your local parts house.These have a pretty easy play by play instruction in them.Also,check to see what a re-man starter would run you while youre there.I think youll find it much cheaper than the 25-30% markup most shops put on parts they provide.
Good Luck,
Paul
replaced my battery today. when i went to start my vehicle it ran for about 10 seconds then slowly died even if i gave it more gas. it would start immediately again but again would die. i put the old battery back in and the same sequence of events. did not have any problems with the vehicle until after i changed the battery.noticed after it died and i turned the ignition off the was a motorized sound in the interior under the glove compartment.
Douglas -
It sounds like you have lost fuel pressure. Start by checking fuses including the underhood fuses in the Power Distribution Box. Also check the relay, you swap the relay with another relay (if you find a matching one underhood. You may also have a bad fuel pump.
Also check computer trouble codes to see if anything comes up. Use the following link if you need instructions-
www.troublecodes.net/chrysler/
Let me know what you find.
New User -
1997 grand caravan 3.8 liter i checked all the fuses and switched the fuel pump relay. still works the same starts easily runs for 10 seconds then dies.no problem restarting. my son had the vehicle the nite before and he told me while he was driving from work the speedometer odometer and tach were all flucuating abnormally. the problem doesn't seem to be with the fuel as it starts immediately after stalling.put in more gas and gas line antifreeze just in case - no help. also did my troule codes ising my key got the 12 and 55 which i believe are start and end codes . i would appreciate any other suggestions . thanks. ed melanson
Douglas -
This may be very difficult to diagnose without a capable scanner to view live sensor data, etc. This is especially true with the information on the tach/etc acting abnormally.
Are you hearing the fuel pump run during initial key on and engine cranking? If you could get to an Autozone store they have a tool loaner program which should include a fuel pressure gauge. This would let you know for sure if fuel pressure is adequate. Call Autozone ahead of time.
Because the engine will immediately restart it makes it difficult to tell what is dropping out, spark or fuel (or both).
If you had a can of throttle body cleaner, you could spray this into a vacuum hose (not to much highly flammable) and see if this would keep the engine running.
Power steering quit. Low on fluid. Filled and worked a short time in one direction but not the other. Later filled again and worked both directions for a little while then quit. Now works some then quits again. Air in system? Have turned wheels from lock to lock several times. Some fluid has blown back from the resivour. Maybe I overfilled it.
What's going on?
tkw -
sounds like steering rack and pinion is leaking--check the boots at either end to see if they are full of fluid--most likely will need new power steering rack
New User -
what should the replacement charge be? (approx.)
tkw -
the replacement cost vary quit a bit--i would figure around 500-600 dollars--depends on if dealer does it or an independent--dealer could be upwards of 1000 dollars
kaptnzog -
I have to agree that it sounds as if it is in the rack and pinion. You may want to do a little comparison shopping. Check with witn one of your local chain store parts houses (Pep Boys, Auto Nation, Auto Zone etc) for a re-man rack. You can usually get one way below what any dealer or independent will quote you on parts. Remember, any repair shop is going to put a markup on any parts they sell. Next you need to find a repairer who will agree to do the repair with the part you supply. Make sure to ask for the old rack back in the box the new one came in. A core charge is usually tacked on untill you return the old part. If you are mechanicaly inclined and depending on the location of the rack, its a medium size repair. wise expect 3-5 labor hours (again depending on the rack location and access) at whatever their labor rate is.
I bought a 1997 Dodge Grand Caravan SE 3.8l with a known "bad AC unit". I was told the AC unit smokes (haven't tested this myself). The pulley on the unit turns fine as the belt is not a problem and I was informed that as long as you don't push the button for AC to turn on then its fine and won't cause any problems like smoking.
Can I rebuild the AC unit and where can I find proper detailed instructions or do I just have to buy a new AC unit?
Bruce Kit -
You can buy a new or used or rebuilt a/c compressor. Used might be yhe most cost effective.Although you could install it (the freon in it and the hoses are high pressure !) you would not have the tools to rebuild it or recharge the freon.
So it is not accidentally turned on you might want to either unplug it at the compressor or remove the corresponding fuse, untill it is fixed.
New User -
Thank you Bruce! With it being hi-pressure is - you said I could replace it - in taking the old unit off do I need to be aware of anything dangerous or can I just remove it then replace it?
(yes I will have a shop charge it as you stated).
Bruce Kit -
high press freon dangerous, can cause frostbite. If it has already leaked out, ok. Can carefully test for press. at schrader valves on lines. Look like tire valves.
Gloves and goggles a good safety idea
New User -
Thank you for the advice Bruce I appreciate your time!
1996 Dodge Grand Caravan Engine Smelling When driving Always
New User Asked -
When driving my van I smell a very strong gas smell. I have had the following items checked, and all found to be in working order:
Fuel pump and lines
gas cap
fuel injector
exhaust system
You can smell the gas fumes from the air vents and if you have your window down on the drivers side. The smell is the strongest when standing near the front hood of the car
macconeck -
recheck your car fuel hoses and vapor recovery system with the engine running. Have them pay close attention to the fuel injectors as some cars have a tendency to have injectors that leak.
Your car is equipped with a gasoline vapor canister. It collects gasoline vapor from the gas tank. That system may not be working properly, causing your problem.
I hope this helps
1996 Dodge Grand Caravan All Part Groups Won't Start When starting
New User Asked -
on sunday evening i hit a deer with the passenger side of my 1996 dodge grand caravan. dented the hood...smashed the light completely out, dented the fender and passenger door. van was still runnable....until this morning...wednesday. i went out to start it and nothing...clicked a little bit ..tried having it jumped...but nothing ...not even clicking. door beeps but thats about it...no radio...nothing on dash but interior lights will come on.
macconeck -
It souneds like you must of blown out a fuse ,it is possible that this its the effect of a short after the fact of the accident check the light that was destriyed for a shorted wire
1996 Dodge Grand Caravan Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens sometimes No pattern
New User Asked -
dash lights work intermittently.
Douglas -
The dash warning lights (seat belt, check engine, brake, etc) or the dash lights that come with the headlights? Or both?
New User -
Only the lights that come on with the headlights are not working correctly
New User -
Hello,
I've re-opened this question at the customer's request.
Mark,
Site Admin.
New User -
Only the lights that come on with the headlights are not working correctly.
Douglas -
The next time they fail adjust the dimmer for the lights repeatedly and see if the lights come back on. If they do the switch or the electrical connector to the switch is at fault.
New User -
Just in case my other reply did not go through.
I tried moving the dimmer switch repeatedly but the lights still do not come on.
kaptnzog -
I'm a different responder but I have to concur with the prior that the dimming switch would be the first to come to mind.You say you have already tried the the "jimmy" trick on it with no response.This is where it becomes a little difficult to diagnois eletrical from this side of the screen.Just throwing a new dimmer switch at it my produce no cure.I take it you have power elsewhere in the vehicle.Check for positive power going to switch.Next check power going out(this part is best done with a DVOM)while turning the dimmer switch.The DVOM will determine voltage or OHMS(I prefer OHMS)to make sure the switch is not at fault.If everything tests good here,it's on to the connection at the back of the instrument cluster.Make sure there is a tight connection.The harness snaps in.Wiggle it a little and try it out for a little bit to see if the problem reoccurs.if it does the problem could lie in the printed circut on the back of the cluster.One other thing that come to mind,when is does happen,try and wriggle your keys in the ignition(as if you were going to turn it off and on but don't actually do it.Just a slight motion as if you were to.I might try this first before going on the time consuming check described above.The ignition switch can somtimes play havoc certain controls.
Good Luck,
Paul
1996 Dodge Grand Caravan Electrical / Lighting Systems Failing
kieshalm Asked -
I took van to get inspected, mechanic told me that there is no power going to my computer, I check the fuses and all the wires I could find, where else, do I look, what am I looking for?
kieshalm -
The van automatically failed the inspection because of this.
Roger -
Hello, If the computer is not getting power it cannot function. The computer runs the power train!
Do you have a check engine light on while driving?
What engine please?
Did the inspector issue a rejection slip?
I'll try to help,
Roger
kieshalm -
engine is 3.3 liter v6... the "plug" to the computer has no power, the vehicle cannot be inspected, the compuer itself is working just not the scanner plug.. make sense?
kieshalm -
oh.. no the check engine light was not on and he did not issue a rejection slip either
Roger -
All right, when a scan tool is plugged into the socket on the vehicle the scanner is not being powered by the vehicle. It should.
I'll find out what to look for and be back soon as I can.
Roger
kieshalm -
thank you
Roger -
The data base I am using is not giving me the power distribution breakdown by fuse number.
I will get you an answer but it may be tomorrow. Will that work for you? It will be mid-morning before I can know for sure.
Meantime you could test all the fuses inside the fuse box inside and under the hood of the van.
For all of the fuses to power up so as not to make a wrong conclusion the ignition key and the headlights should be on. Using a 12 volt test light and touching each side of each fuse you should note power indicated by the test light illuminating.
Any fuse that fails to light the test light on both test points can be removed for inspection.
Look for a fuse labeled "IOD", it may be the one.
How do you want to proceed?,
Roger
kieshalm -
responding tomorrow is fine, I will try what you have said so far
Roger -
Passenger Compartment Fuse #4 (15 amp) supplies power to the Data Link Connector.
Roger
kieshalm -
okay... where is that located?
Roger -
Left side of the dash board, behind an access panel. Open the driver's door and look at the end of the dash.
Roger
kieshalm -
my husband checked all of those should we just replace them all... I'm sorry I know that this should be relativley simple but I am at a loss. Before coming to this sight we checked all the fuses and wiring
Roger -
Did you use a test lamp or a meter to verify voltage is detected on both sides of fuse #4 (15 amp) or simply inspect the fuse and found it a good one?
I'm still not sure the technician that said the data link connector was dead verified anything.
National chain auto parts stores like AutoZone, O'Reiley's can test your vehicle for codes for free. To do so the data link connector would have to have power. This could be a way of getting a second opinion for free. If their scanner works, the first technician was wrong, or just didn't want to do the inspection for you.
Roger
kieshalm -
went to autozone to confirm the plug is dead, checked all fuses in vehicle, a remote starter was installed prior to purchase of vehicle, wil check for dirt or rust on plug, does the wiring go through stereo area, had a stereo stolen out of van a year ago could this be an issue, can thi plug be replaced and how
Roger -
Thank you for taking the time to get a local second opinion on the data link connector status.
This latest info you gave me changes everything. Do you have recourse with the remote starter system installer? Will they recheck the install to assure you no DLC connector wires were cut? Same question concerning the stereo install?
The DLC connector need not be replaced but rather the wire harness route through the vehicle inspected for the location of the cut/broken wiring.
If you are pretty handy at removing the stereo so you can get a look at the wiring harness it will be a great start at finding the problem source.
Your Grand Caravan needs someone with the patience to check the vehicle as though it were a theft recovery or one that had a dash wiring burn or vandalizm.
The best way I have found to be fair with the customer that hires me to do a job like this is to punch a time stamp on the repair order and charge by actual time spent working on the problem. I don't take any sort of break without first clocking back out of the repair order.
Usually the customer tells me a limit I cannot exceed and in most cases I finish below the cut-off.
Do you have the test equipment to run wire continuity tests? I can send you the data link wiring diagram I have that shows where the circuits start and end. It does not reveal the physical route. I will need your email address to send the diagram. It is not a sharp/dark copy.
What would you have me do next?
Roger
kieshalm -
sorry it ook em so long to respond...please feel free to send it to my email [redacted] , we are going to take it back to the dealer that we bought it from to see what they can figure out, we have done everything that you have suggested and everyone else has suggested... but still to no avail. I am just afraid of the cost for this is going to be, we have already had one mechanic tell us that we may need to replace the computer, and my thought on this is that I would rather just get a new van.
Roger -
You shouldn't need a computer! Does the computer need to be interogated to pass inspection when the Service Engine Soon or Check Engine light is not on (engine running)?
In my home state if the check engine light is not ON with the engine running it does not factor in the inspection. The State Hiway Patrol administrates the program and can over-rule an inspector's mis-interpritation of the inspection criteria.
Your vehicle just needs the wiring to the data link connector repaired. An honest and accountable tecnician is what is hoped for to control your cost to repair.
If this present condition goes all the way back to the seller how did they pass the inspection to sell the vehicle to you?
Frustrating,
Roger
kieshalm -
Thank you so much for all of your help, I rec'd the email. My husband said that the diagram should help him out a lot and he may be able to skip taking it to the mechaninc at all, he is very concernd however because we know that the previous owner installed the starter himself, but they sold it to us with the inspection passed. Cross your fingers for us, thanks again Roger!!!!
1996 Dodge Grand Caravan Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
Have a 96 Grand Caravan that blows the engine fuse whenever it feels like it. Could be take 1 week or 1 month but it blows. Three different mechanics have looked at it and come up empty handed. I noticed many Grand caravans have similar issues yet I haven't seen any answers. Please help, I would like to give this car to my brother and his family but not in this condition.
Sterlingfixer -
I had one where we fought it for about a month, then found the alternator to be bad and blowing the fuse.
New User -
How often did it blow the fuse and how consistent was it?
Sterlingfixer -
It blew the fuse once a month, once a week, or any other time period.
3.3 engine has engine miss on #2 cylinders.Checked with Snap-on scanner. Swapped injectors with firing cylinders and miss stayed with #2 & #5 cylinders. Checked injector harness with noid light and there is normal flash. Checked ignition spark on those two cylinders and it is fine. Ign coil was replaced, engine fuse R&R due to bare wires on inj harness Harness repaired. Any ideas why there is still misfire ?
Douglas -
It is standard practice to replace the spark plugs and wires for misfire concerns, use OE plugs and wires.
Is the miss very noticeable, or is it simply setting codes?
New User -
It isn't setting any codes. There is definitely a miss. The engine is low on power also. I used my brothers snap-on scanner to cut out injectors. I notice a difference on all but 2 cylinders, #2 & #5. I switched the injectors around from working cylinders, the miss stayed with the same cylinders. The plugs look good, wires were checked for resistance and they were good. The injector pulse was checked with a noid light, tested good and consistent as with the good cyl cylinders.
Douglas -
Checking the resistance of the wires is not very accurate (it can prove a wire is bad but not that the wire is good).
Look in darkness while the miss is present, if possible, and see if there is any stray spark from the wires, etc. Use extreme caution around moving engine parts!!!
You also may need to take a compression test to be sure the engine is okay mechanically.
New User -
The wires were replaced. The plugs were replaced. There is still a miss on cylinders 2 & 5.
Douglas -
Time for a cylinder compression test to see if there is a mechanical problem. What is the compression?
New User -
I checked cyls. 2,4,&6. 115-120 psi on first crank and 170-180 after 4 revolutions.I also found that I didn't have spark on #2 & #5. Why would it change rpm if I unplugged #2 injector without any ign spark there and doesnt make any difference if I unplug #6 injector (cyl with ign spark) while engine is running?
1995 Dodge Grand Caravan Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm
New User Asked -
I had a new transmission put in my car. Then the transmission started going into limp mode all the time. They replaced the transmission computer because they said it had 5 codes in it and the codes didn't make sense. Since then, it has developed a new problem. Whenever you are driving, the speedometer drops to zero and the car bucks. It does not matter what speed you are driving. The gauge comes back up eventually and then it will do it again until all the gauges drop and the car shuts off. It happen at 65mph today. I had a check engine light come on and when I checked it I came up with 12,34,55. I know what 12 and 55 are but I can't figure out 34. The car does not stall when the check engine light is on. It stays on until the car is turned off. Where do I start to try and figure this problem out. The transmission shop will not touch it!They say it's an electrical problem. Could it be the computer they put in. I don't think it was new. Please help me with any advice you may have. By the way all of this takes place in the span of 1 month.
Kerry -
The transmission shop was the last place where work was done, it is their responsibility. They obviously created a "dog" and do not want to be responsible for it.
The problem might be "electrical" but it does have to do with that computer.
There may be sensors that are not reporting properly - but don't mention that to them since it would give fuel to their claims.
Your instruments are obviously getting their information from one or both of the vehicle computers.
That is the place to start. A diagnostic of the computers and the total electrical system is indicated.
It could be just a single wire that was not connected properly, or is in the wrong place. This happens a lot.
If the transmission shop will not help you, and you have all of the applicable receipts, seek help from the Better Business Bureau, or, send a letter to the consumer division of your state's Attorney General.
They should be able to help you with the problem. I've done this more than once, believe me, NOBODY likes getting a letter from the Attorney General.
1994 Dodge Grand Caravan Ignition System Won't Start
Ree Asked -
Some kids stole van to go joy riding. Dug out the ignition and started with screw driver (that's how I got it home) Now it won't start at all. The thing turns, but nothing happens.I'm lost trying to tell the guy on the phone what needs fixing before I actually take it in but, if at all possible would like to save the tow money involved in getting the old girl to the shop. The nut I talked to keeps insisting that the "column is peeled" (whatever that means) but the police officer says that it isn't. I just need to get it started so I can get it to a shop. Can you help me???
Ree -
Helloooooooooooo
Douglas -
The engine cranks, but does the check engine light come on when you turn on the key (as it normally does)? Do you hear the fuel pump run when you initially turn on the key and during engine cranking?
Also check fuses, it's possible you have blown a fuse especially when it has been tampered with.
Ree -
No. The engine does not crank at all.
Ree -
Husband says there was a spark the last time he attempted to start it.
Douglas -
The engine will not crank at all now? If this is the case, does the dash light lights come on (check engine light) when he turns the [screwdriver]?
Ree -
Yes, the interior lights and also the headlights will come on. Also, the way you would turn the key to roll the windows down without starting the car does not have power either.
Douglas -
Does the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT come on with the key? If it does, and all he desires is to drive to to shop... he needs a remote starter- please use the following link to a repair guide that'll include a wiring diagram as well as starter info-
1994 Dodge Grand Caravan Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving
New User Asked -
electric door locks lock and unlock when driving. Interior lights go on and off. Constant and intermittent "bonging" alarm sounds.
Bruce Kit -
I had the same problem with my Grand Prix,
It turned out to be a water leakage in the windsheild area. Carefully check the carpet up front for moisture. (run your hands over the carpet up front)Also inspect under the dash area with a light.Rust on anything means moisture!
Also check the underhood fuse box for its properly fitted cover and also check it for moistire.
Bruce
New User -
Okay, I'll check this out. But where does water get in, around the windshield? Why would it cause what I am talking about?
Bruce Kit -
Let me know if it is wet or rusty under the dash. Moisture is a conductor of electricity.
New User -
It is bone dry under the dash. No dampness of any sort on carpets or floor. No significant rust on metal parts under dash. No signs of persistent moisture. Neither of the interior electronic door lock switches work. (Except for once in a while.) The two front doors both open with the key fob. Also need key fob or key to operate sliding door lock. Trunk lock switch won't work either with key fob or dash switch — have to use key. Need some other ideas.
Bruce Kit -
You might want to purchase a Haynes Shop manual (abt $15) they have a wiring diagram in the back.Most other manuals do not.
From past experience, you do not want to take this problem to a shop as few will give you a quote, and might take days to find!
Just curious...key fob has fresh battery?
macconeck -
your problem is consistent with a malfunctioning body controlmodual or sometimes reffered to as a chassis control module not to be confused with the ecm engine control module
The bcm works in relation to the controls for the door locks,and interior lights and
is the brain for the electronics outside of the engine an transmission
I would scan the computer for any stored codes to see if any are present
have the BCM tested it will most likely solve your problem
I hope this helps
New User -
Where is the Body Control Module on a 94 Dodge Grand Caravan?
macconeck -
It is located under the dash board driver side
New User -
Can you tell me what it looks like? How do I identify it. There is a lot of stuff there. Is it near the fuse box?
macconeck -
It would be a square or rectangular simi flat box with numerous wires made into a plug attached to it.
Douglas -
Could you tell me where you stand now so I can attempt to assist you.
New User -
Can't locate body control module. I guess I need to take the car to a mechanic to find it and test it. So far I've gotten answers ranging from wet carpeting to the BCM. I don't know who is right and I don't want to pursue this anymore. I am asking for my $20 payment to be refunded. Thank you.
Douglas -
I don't think you have a problem with water instrusion.
If you want me to provide you information let me know.
If you wish for a refund contact the site adminstrator. If you don't have his email address let me know.
New User -
Okay, Douglas, please go ahead. I was probably just getting overly impatient.
Douglas -
Sorry for the delay. I want you to start by disconnecting both battery cables for ten minutes. With the cables still disconnected step on brake pedal (this will drain any capacitors). Reconnect the battery cables and test drive. What you are doing is resetting the computer systems, sometimes this is all they need and cost nothing to try.
The BCM is rather expensive and testing requires Chrysler capable scanners (DRB). If you wish to change the BCM without professional diagnosis first let me know. Hopefully a reset will fix the problem- let me know and we'll go from there.
New User -
Okay, I tried the dis- and re-connect to reset the BCM. It didn't fix the problem. The alarm still chimes, the doors lock and unlock themselves while driving, and the interior lights flash off and on. What a pain! Next idea, please.
Radiator cooling fan does not come on at all. I found that the 30 amp buss fuse in the power distribution box had blown. Replaced it, but it blew again. Ideas?
kaptnzog -
If the fuse blew immediatly after replacing its a good possibility rhe fan motor itself is bad and grounding out internaly.Disconect the harness and try hitching direct power to the fan motor itself to see what transpires.
New User -
The plug is a four pin connector. Which leads are hot? What's the best way to connect directly?
I went to start ,and found that the battery was dead!
So I took it out and charged ,found that the battery was shorted and no Good ,replaced with new battery ,
started up run good ,but Trans slipped , Problem
unknown , CAN u Help !!!
Bruce Kit -
Sometimes when a battery internally shorts out, it can damage the alternator and a few other components, including computers. I would test the alternator, and have the van scanned for codes.
The trans slippage might not be related though. That era of trans had a problem with slipping. The timing might be a coincidence.
New User -
Thank You !!
Al
Douglas -
Hello,
Does the check engine light come on while the engine is running? If the engine light is on I'll give you instructions on how to check trouble codes without any tools.
When does the transmission slip, in all gears / from a stop / reverse / etc?
Whenever the transmission slips the first thing to do is check the fluid level (on newer cars the check engine light is also high on the list). How does the fluid look?
New User -
Hi Doug:The fluid in the Trans is good in color &don't have a burnt smell,Engine light is never came on for about 55000 mi I had it turn off at about 83000mi by a Mech , The trans will slip when the fluid warms up, It over full now but I never put fluid in lately where it's coming from I don't have a clue , When the fluid is cool it shift's good till it warm's , I didn't tell you it has 268000 and until the battery dyeing , I had no trouble!! Reply Please!
Douglas -
The transmission can shift funny (after battery replacement) until it relearns shift strategies but should not slip.
How overfull is the transmission? The correct amount should be restored. Make sure you are on a level surface and follow instructions in your owners manual or on the dipstick when checking fluid.
Make sure the coolant level is not down (this could contaminate the fluid via the radiator, although unlikely).
When was the last fluid and filter change?
New User -
Hi Doug:The trans is about 1/2 pint over ,iwill try and get back to norm tomorrow, this tran's is the same org trans but have had it rebuilt at about 102323mi, Ok I'll get the filter changed and put new fluid in ! I'll get back with you !!
1993 Dodge Grand Caravan Electrical / Lighting Systems When driving Always
New User Asked -
RE: Cruise Control -
Cruise control does not engage at anytime. Have checked the brake switch, steering wheel switches, vacuum hoses, all seem to be okay.
Could problem be in the computer or transmission or servo mechanism?
Les -
Hi;
Sounds like you might have a bad servo. If you have a diagram you can check to make sure it is getting a signal to it. Good Luck Les.
New User -
This does not answer my question.
!) How do I check out the Servo?
2) What is a diagram?
3) What does the diagram indicate to me?
4) How is diagram going to determine if Servo is
malfunctioning?
This answer is way too vague.
Les -
Hi;
You need to get ahold of a repair manual. Most Auto Parts store sell them. The wiring diagram will show you which wire is coming of the controller and going to your servo. At this wire with the cruise control on you should get a signal to it. Some models can be checked with a OBD11 computer, If this is possible on your year vehicle, then you might want to take it and have a shop see if they can pull the codes and let you know. Good Luck Les.
1993 Dodge Grand Caravan Chassis / Suspension & Steering
New User Asked -
the abs pump cycles all the time and then quits causing a very hard pedal. whats up?
I thought that if the abs did not work I would still have normal braking. thanks.
Douglas -
Is the ABS light on when you have a hard pedal? If the light is not on pull the ABS fuse or unplug the ABS controller, temporarily for test purposes, and the light should come on. When the ABS light comes on you should lose the ABS function but still have conventional brakes. BTW- The ABS should only activate during quick stops or on a slippery surface.
New User -
the abs and the brake light both come on when i have a hard pedal. when i disconnect the abs i get a hard pedal. thank you
Chris -
If you can hold off until tomorrow I would like to check something. I think most likely the cause is the accumulator(the big black ball just to the left of the master cylinder). This part is a very common problem on the vans. It is also very easy to replace and fairly inexpensive.
New User -
i received your message to wait. it may be the accumulator. please reply as soon as you have the info. thanks.
Chris -
I did some checking and the accumulator would be the most likely cause for the hard pedal and ABS light. There may be another issue with the pump pulsating. My suggestion would to be to replace the accumulator and go from there.
1993 Dodge Grand Caravan Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
1993 Grand Caravan ES Has 4 speed Ultradrive (will not drive Ha Ha) ABS and A/C.
Where is the cooling fan relay located? Under hood left/ or right and how many from front of car. (Or is it in panel under dash and which location?) Do any fuses apply to this system. Owners manual is worthless as is my Chiltons.
Bruce Kit -
Looks like there are 3 relays, two on pass inner fender one on drivers side inner fender (closest to firewall) First check the orange fuseable link attached to the greey wire (behind the battery. Fuseable links are usually checked by feel (you are looking for a soft or weak spot in the fusable link)
Haynes manual is best, as it has easy to read wiring diagrams.
New User -
Which 2 on passenger side? (location from firewall) Also it seemed last night that the first relay on the drivers side was a larger one- not a fan relay. Do you mean thee first one after that? Please clarify.
Bruce Kit -
LH the one at rear towards firewall.Attaches with 1 or 2 screws, looks different than other relays(bigger)
Passenger side ones not always in same location, depending on options and year.Different even in early 93 and midyear 93.
Thats while I always refer to a wiring diagram and sometimes swap a known good relay as a test.
I am assuming that you checked the fuseable link?
I also test the fan by temporarily hooking a wire from fan to battery. And also the coolant (fan) sensor in the intake is more of a problem, than the relays. I usually run a ground wire there to see if fan and relays are operational.
1992 Dodge Grand Caravan Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
My van was running and just cut out one day. I have replaced the gas tank, fuel lines, fuel pump and filter, and spark plugs. A mechanic that seemed incompetent said that it will run on an "alternate fuel source" and the engine gets no fuel pressure. Do you think that it is the ASD relay that needs to be replaced or is it something else?
Sterlingfixer -
It could be the ASD relay. First, confirm that there is no fuel pressure to the engine. Confirm that it will run on an alternate fuel source. If both are true, go to the fuel tank and check for power and and ground at the pump connections while the engine is cranking. If both are present, it is a bad pump or connection. If either is missing, you will need to repair that wire circuit.
I have replaced the cam sensor, crank sensor, coil pack, and temperature sensor. I have a 1992 Grand Caravan with a 3.3L engine. The engine turns easily but there is no spark at the spark plugs. What can I check or do next?
Douglas -
First things first, does the check engine light come when you turn the key on (as it normally does)?
If yes, check trouble codes. Turn the key On, Off, On, Off, and On again (three times within five seconds). The check engine light will turn off and begin to flash trouble codes.
It takes you to autzones online repair guides. Note- engine wiring diagrams are listed under the 'Chassis Electrical' section.
Let me know what you find.
Oh, the code 12 is usually meaningless.
New User -
The timing chain is intact. I mention the engine turning smoothly because there is no drag, hesitation, etc. However, the fuel pump is NOT initializing (my wife nor I could here it) when the key is turned on or when the engine is turning. I have replaced the ASD relay and the fuel pump relay. I did this at the beginning. I am using the official service repair manual purchased when I bought the van.
Ken
Douglas -
I thought that is what you meant about engine cranking, but had to be sure.
Do you have key on battery positive to the coil?
New User -
Forget engine cranking. I do not have electrical at the plugs. The engine will not fire even after installing a new coil. I just checked the battery and it has 12+/- volts. I am at a loss.
Ken
New User -
Good morning. As I said yesterday, I'm at a loss. Have been researching my manual as well and still no other ideas. What other suggestions do you have at this point?
New User -
I just received a message asking if the answers provided were satisfactory. I do not feel that the conversation has been completed. I am still waiting for a reply. Do you have any further suggestions? Any information will be greatly appreciated, as I am trying to get on the road to help my elderly mother ASAP. Thanks and have a good day.
Douglas -
I'll stick with until (hopefully) we solve the problem.
What you need is to check for KEY ON Battery Positive voltage to the coil. The coil needs battery positive AND the negative trigger to fire. We must determine if we have key on positive voltage and go from there. Check with one end of voltmeter to a known good ground and the other to the coil positive wire (while the key is on).
New User -
I just tried the B+ test and there is NO voltage between the coil and the battery. What should I do next?
Thank you for your assistance and commitment.
Ken
Douglas -
Okay, you were checking for (key on) B+ at the coil with the negative lead of voltmeter connected to the battery's negative post...
Now look at the wiring diagram in you service manual. Note the path of the B+ to the coil and check. If you need more assistance with this step, let me know.
New User -
Thank you. I am unable to check any further at this point. The battery is dead. Due to another personal situation, I have to put this repair project on hold for a couple weeks. I will resume our conversation ASAP...probably the 1st week of November.
New User -
I've been working on the van again. The timing belt appears to be fine based on the fact that the valves are working. I have replaced cam shaft sensor, crank shaft sensors, temp/coolant sensor, speed control sensor, neutral safety switch, coil, ASD relay, fuel pump relay, AC clutch relay circuit and battery. The key on codes are currently reading 35. 35 indicates fan relay so I cut the wires and isolated the circuit. Still didn't start. Code read 32 which is not listed in manual. Any ideas?
Douglas -
If KEY ON Battery Positive is missing at the coil the engine will not start. This is primary voltage, use the wiring diagram in to trace the source of the problem. Don't overlook fuses, battery connections, grounds, etc at this point.
1991 Dodge Grand Caravan Chassis / Suspension & Steering Sticking Happens sometimes No pattern
New User Asked -
Mostly when wet. It locks the rear breaks
New User -
the reason it locks up is your abs(anti braking system) system. it is sensitive to weather change and thinks you need more braking assistance. what you may want to do is either brake further away ( that way you don't apply a lot of pressure at once) or have someone adjust the abs (anti braking system) system in your vehicle.
1991 Dodge Grand Caravan Ignition System Malfunction
New User Asked -
I can not turn the ignition switch so that the car starts no matter what. It feels like it is disconnected somewhere. Could this be a problem where the actual ignition switch is? Where is the ignition switch and how do I get to it?
Roger -
Hello, I believe you'll need a lock smith as the problem is most likely the ignition key lock cylinder and not the ignition switch.
The ignition switch is at the base and on top of the steering column. It is connected mechanically to the ignition lock cylinder.
1991 Dodge Grand Caravan Electrical / Lighting Systems Overheating When starting Always
New User Asked -
Wiring harness bundled with battery wire going to firewall, One of the wires ,looks like 16 guage orange wire, started smokeing when I tried to start the engine. Starter bucked but didn't turn over. Stoped when I saw the smoke. Opened the hood to look to see what was the matter. Smoke came from driver side close to the firewall. The orange wire was still warm. The orange wire was splised to two red wires, about 16 guage, coming into engine compartment from the firewall going back to the firewall.
Sterlingfixer -
I believe the orange wire is a fusible link. This is designed turn burn like a fuse if the circuit is overloaded. I believe the red wire goes to the ignition switch and possibly the starter. Something is shorted and the design allows it to burn out the orange link before any damage is done to the harness. Could be the starter itself, I would suggest disconnecting the starter wires, looking for any shorted or bare wires, then see what happens when you try to start the van. It will NOT start, but if there is no smoke, then we are on the right track.
New User -
Will the other wires in the harness be messed up and can I buy this fusible wire at the auto parts store?
Sterlingfixer -
The fusible link is designed to burn BEFORE anything else is damaged. Resolve the short, replace the link if damaged and you should be good to go. Make sure the replacement link is the same gage wire.
1990 Dodge Grand Caravan Ignition System Stalling When braking When warm
Richard Asked -
Greetings!
AS mentioned my Grand Caravan stalls when comming to a stop and then nearly refuses to start. It will eventually start but takes a lot of cranking before it will fire. It doesn't even seem to try to start while turning the engine over until it has been cranking for a good while. Once started it generally seems to run okay until you get to the next stop. I have found that if I can "sneak up" to the stop it will sometimes keeps running but the tac swings a great deal and shows that the engine nearly kills every time. I have taken it to a dealer and spent a great deal of money to get the fuel pressure regulator changed as they suggested, just to have them tell me now there is low compression in the #5 cyclinder and that I need to rebuild or get a new engine at $4,200! Before going to the dealer I took it to an "ALL-TUNE" type place and they said the computer gave no indication as to what the problem was. Their best guess was that a crank or cam sensor was bad which was causing the spark not to be sent at the right time, but they couldn't swear to it and suggested that I take it to the dealer. The only other problem identified by the dealer was that the catylitic converter might be going bad as well. Might be going bad? You would think they would know if it was going bad! Also, as always friends are willing to give their free advice and one such friend has said that he has had a problem with his Grand Caravan in the past and couldn't get it fixed until he replaced his O2 sensor, then it worked great. I have no clue what to do, BUT I know I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars replacing part after part trying to find the culprit. I sure hope you can help me with this.
With kindest regards,
Richard
-
It definetly could be the cam or crank sensor, however, check for a dirty throttle body or faulty idle speed control. The dirty TB usually only causes idle problems when cold. Check carefully for vacuum leaks. Make sure the wires are good but usually a bad wire causes a miss on acceleration. You don't give the mileage or the engine size. Some of the V-6 motors had a timing belt. If this belt "jumps time" just by one tooth, it can cause problems. If the engine is the MITSUBItSHI with a lot of miles, look there. I really suggest an independent shop that does a lot of work. Check ata local parts outlet, not one that does repair work, but one that just sells parts, NAPA, American Parts Carquest, for whom they might recommend. The parts guys usually know "who's who". The bad cylinder is probably a valve which requires head removal. Steps- Scan the computer for codes. None, then look at the valve timing. Good luck
Tyler
Richard -
It doesn't seem to have problems when cold. I would like to think that both, or either, the "ALL-TUNE" place or dealer would have checked for vacume leaks, but I'll do as you say. The dealer replaced both the wires and the plugs, but that didn't help AT ALL! When driving at speed the engine doesn't seem to show problems, it's only when the vehicle is coming to a stop that it wants to or does die. This was a used vehicle GIVEN to me so I don't know how many miles are actually on the engine as the privous owner clams that the engine was replaced "not too long ago." The engine is a 3.3L V6. Isn't there some way I could check the cam and/or crank sensor first without just replacing those pricey little items just to find out they were good all along? I really appreciate your help with this, but would like to hear what you have to say about this additional information.
Richard
"It definetly could be the cam or crank sensor, however, check for a dirty throttle body or faulty idle speed control. The dirty TB usually only causes idle problems when cold. Check carefully for vacuum leaks. Make sure the wires are good but usually a bad wire causes a miss on acceleration. You don't give the mileage or the engine size. Some of the V-6 motors had a timing belt. If this belt "jumps time" just by one tooth, it can cause problems. If the engine is the MITSUBItSHI with a lot of miles, look there. I really suggest an independent shop that does a lot of work. Check ata local parts outlet, not one that does repair work, but one that just sells parts, NAPA, American Parts Carquest, for whom they might recommend. The parts guys usually know "who's who". The bad cylinder is probably a valve which requires head removal. Steps- Scan the computer for codes. None, then look at the valve timing. Good luck
Tyler"
My 1990 Grand Caravan will not shift into overdrive. I have been operating in drive but sometimes when I come to a stop, it downshifts very hard with a clunk. I have changed the tranny fluid and replaced the speed sensors. Any other ideas? I hope i don't have to have a new transmission built.
New User -
Also, the speedometer acts funny. It will work intermittently, while other times it either bounces all over or doesn't register at all.
Bruce Kit -
Have the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) checked. On your year, it should be at the left rear area of the trans ,It looks like a small black box with a few wires.
It sends a signal to the speedo and the computer.
These transmissions are very weak and failure prone and expensive.It is essential that the fluid be kept clean at all times.
1988 Dodge Grand Caravan Fuel System Won't Start When stopped When warm
New User Asked -
When engine hot (about 30-40min driving), if I shut van off, it won't start up...cranks fine. First time this happened, I sprayed that "fast start" into carb & after 3 shots it started up. Wouldn't work the 2nd time. Have had fuel filter replaced which was FILLED with gunk...Unfortunately, a few months ago, I ran fuel tank down to almost empty....after that, I ran "heet" through tank and "cdr2"(??)...When engine cools off, it will usually start up ok. augh!!!
Sterlingfixer -
Hi,
You gave a good description including the details which you know about. It sounds very much like the fuel pump/strainer/filter may be clogged again. Another thing you can check is to find out if there is strong spark at the time when it won't start. You need fuel and spark. With both, it should start. A test of your fuel pressure will confirm if the problem is in the filter/strainer/pump areas. Pressure should be about 30-40 psi for 6 cylinders, or 10-15 psi for 4 cylinders.
New User -
so...would you still hear a fuel pump running even if its inside the fuel tank?...the dodge shop I took it to before, who replaced the fuel filter, wants me to bring it in and leave it so they can hook it up to MUCH equipment and wait for it to get HOT...so they can "track down the problem". all I see is $$$$....If I can run the odds to heavily suspect the fuel pump, I have a mechanic friend who will replace it for me. Supposedly there are a lot of possible causes for this problem....but I suspect this problem stems from me stupidly running the tank dry (since the fuel filter was totally plugged up with sludge)....so it wouldn't seem that it would be a sensor. Am I right in my thinking? thanks!
Sterlingfixer -
It would make sense. You could have your mechanic friend hook up a pressure guage and you could do the same tests yourself as the shop might do. Run it till it gets hot. When it won't start, check your pressure to see if it is the same as when all ran well. Sludge can kill a pump....
Dale
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