Dodge Ram Van

2002 Dodge Ram Van Drive Train / Driveline   

2002 B3500 van w/75k miles. Twice in the past, shifter got locked in park, seemingly because of parking backwards uphill. Was able to rock vehicle with lever enough to pull shifter out of park. Now three times in this week alone, once when parking forward on minimal slope. Currently stuck on my carport, no amount of rocking can unstick it. Everything else about transmission seems fine.

Sounds like the park detent in trans has a sharp edge on the park detent(inside)
Try blocking front tires so it does not roll,jack up rear tires, remove from park.Tonight BACK into carport. (till fixed)

Later a trans shop might have to file the sharp edge off the park pawl, inside trans.

Thanx for the quick reply. Are any special tools involved, or should I get the rig to a shop? JL

2002 Dodge Ram Van Fuel System   

2002 Dodge Ram 1500 Van, 3.9 V6, 150k, Fresh valve job, uses no oil. This vehicle was running fine.

Problem: Throws codes: p0300, p0301, p0303, p0305 sometimes others. P0301 usually pops right away. Misfires sometimes at idle and under moderate load, seems almost normal at very light throttle,with a little surging, and under heavy throttle. Does not act like a spark miss. Spark plugs are very light, almost white, like it's running lean. Fuel pressure is 50psi. I tried replacing the #1 injector, but that had no effect. Of course I have done all the obvious, new plugs, cap, rotor, wires, throttle position sensor, checked for vacuum leaks, etc. I am wondering if a bad MAP or Air charge temp sensor could cause this. Thanks for any help you guys can provide.

Was the engine running fine after the valve job or did it appear upon restarting?

Yes on the sensors, especially the map. Make sure vacuum is good to the map. Without a scanner you can test the sensor with a multimeter.

Do look in darkness for any stray electricity, to rule out a plug wires misfiring or coil... Make sure you have a good engine ground... but I agree you likely are experiencing lean misfires if the plugs are getting white.

Yes, it was running fine after the valve job, for about 5000 miles. I keep getting told this is a vacuum leak, but I can't find any. I was told that this engine is prone to leaking through the plenum cover at the bottom of the manifold, but that this usually gets oil in the manifold, and there is nothing there. The engine doesn't use a drop of oil, goes all the way from one change to another with nothing added. I have checked that all the plugs are firing, as well as all the injectors.

If you unplug the map sensor does it still misfire? As you know this will set a code.

When the sensor is unplugged it doesn't change much, but stalls after a few seconds.

You should probably perform a leak down test at this point to check the integrity of the valves. Do you have access to a leak down tester?

No, I don't, but these are fresh heads, and they were vacuum checked.
I don't know if this means anything, but the engine runs better when cold than warmed up, almost "normal".

Okay, just make sure fuel pressure is holding steady while the engine is running. It would be nice to at least put a vacuum gauge on the engine to what it reveals.

Fuel pressure holds steady at 51-52 psi at all speeds. I will try the vacuum test tomorrow.

Vacuum was 24 in. at the port on the intake manifold.

Does vacuum hold steady for extended periods? Does it drop off if you hit the throttle?

Try disconnecting the PCV and see if the engine runs better.

Do you have a multimeter so you can check the MAP signal, as well as the resitance of the temp sensors?

Yes, I have a multimeter.

The vacuum held pretty steady for the time I had it hooked up. Blipping the throttle and putting a load on the engine didn't seem to change it.

Unhooking the PCV doesn't change anything. The engine runs the same. The PCV valve seems to be working, it vibrates. There is plenty of vacuum at the PCV port, and you can feel it at the opposite side of the engine at the inlet when it is hooked up.

Is there any chance this is a defective PCM? I've heard that they can have faults that cause hard to diagnose problems like this.

Yes the PCM can cause random fault codes, although it is difficult to identify. Often it is identified by a process of elimination, which is not always accurate.

I will try a different pcm as soon as I can and see if this makes any difference. I'm not sure what else to try at this point. I am also planning to purchase a scanner tool that may tell me more.

2001 Dodge Ram Van Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

had a caliper leak passenger side-rode almost dry -replaced both calipers (80000 miles on van) when bleeding front brakes-manual bleed - bled fine-- when i bled the rear brakes the pedal went thru the floor -- i thought master cyl. replaced and still have no pedal- did re-bleed with vacuum pump - no air in lines still no pedal -- could it be comb. valve ?
did ido a bad bench bleed ? leak into abs system?

Hello, There is a sequence to bleeding the brakes. I'll scan it for email and send it to you for your review.

What is your email address please?

Roger

rob shea
[redacted]

I'll send you three pages from the Mitchell 1 Auto Repair Data Base. Check your inbox and spam/junk mail for subject Bleeding Ram Van Brakes.

Roger

Bleeding a comb valve I have a helper pump the brakes up. I loosen one line at a time just like a bleeder screw. When the pedal is down retighten the line. Next line, etc.

Roger

is it in any sequence ?

any chance this brings the pedal back ?

No sequence. I don't think the pedal will come back this early in the overall bleeding sequence.

Roger

thanks
i'm on the east coast fyi
what is the white "button" on the comb. valve?

See Step 1 under Pressure Bleeding.

Roger

Have you decided what to do on this one yet? Are you ready to close the question out? If so, please click on OK to finish up. If not, please advise.

Thanks,

Roger

1999 Dodge Ram Van Windows / Glass   

Drivers side window quit going up and down. Upon inspection found it to be the pull cables and round plastic cable track are bad. Need dealer part number and/or suggestions on where to find. Also does the inner door panel/ window hardware come as a package so I dont have to put the darn thing back together?

I don't have dealers part numbers but if you go to one of your local parts houses(AutoZone,Pep Boys etc) you can find the assembly there or by order. I say assembly because the regulator you speak of is such. You need to read and take spcecial caution on re-instalation as these cables can unwind and leave you with a usless mess. Get back if you need further help.

1998 Dodge Ram Van Ignition System   

no electrical power to engine or fuel pump

Always start by checking battery terminals/ cables/ grounds/ etc and fuses.

Next try swapping the ASD relay for a matching (non-essential; perhaps the A/C relay) relay from the relay block. The numbers on the relay must match.

I'll assume for now that you have power everywhere else.

i have replaced the battery, relay, fuel pump. the battery cables check to be ok.i have power to and from the relays. It was running fine and i parked it for approximately one month. When i tried to start it it would not start.i have checked very well and there is no spark to the plugs and fuel pump. i also changed the plate in the dist. i think it was callewd the cam follower.

Is the check engine light coming on when you turn the key on (as it normally does)? This indicate whether the computer is powering up.

Also, try checking the trouble codes. I believe the following method will work,

Using self-diagnostics to check for codes:

Turn the Key On, then Off, On, Off, and On again (three times withing five seconds).

Now the 'check engine' light will begin to flash codes:

First the tens place will be displayed. Example- Flash Flash equals two flashes for the tens place (we know this code will be twenty-something).

Then the ones place will flash after a longer pause. Flash Flash Flash would be three. This example would be trouble code 23.

If you have trouble counting the flashes turn the key off and start over.

If you have a digital odometer the codes may display in the odometer area instead of flashing the light, although I believe your system will flash the light.

Alternatively, and better, most Autozones will loan you a code reader for a fully refundable deposit.

Let me know which, if any, codes you find.

i tried all the thinks you said. the check engine light comes on ok. none of theself-diagnostics tests worked. so i got a reader and when i use it is says no-link.

Recheck the fuses with a voltmeter, be sure there is power on both side of the fuses. Don't overlook grounds, engine and body.

Did you turn the Key On when you tried to check codes?

Throughly inspect wiring, occasionaly rodents chew on it.

i rechecked all the fuses and relays with a meter. yes the key was on. could it be the processor/computer?

Yes it could be the computer (PCM/ECM), although is usually something simpler.

Do you have Key On positive voltage to the coil and fuel injectors?

no i don't have power to the coil or the fuel injectors. what now?

Hello,

Visit autozone.com and register your vehicle (Year, Make, etc). Then click on Vehicle Repair Guides to view a repair guide for your vehicle. Once at the Repair Guide click on "Chassis Elecrical" then "Wiring Diagrams." Study the diagram, noting wires colors and which fuses feed the injectors and coil via the ASD (autoshutdown) relay. Find out if voltage is missing to one of the hot/fused circuits to the ASD.

1997 Dodge Ram Van Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

none of the running lights work with the exception of the head lights.

you want to check three things to solve this problem
first check the fuses to see if they are out then go to the light switch and check the connection behind dash for loose wire and the possibility of a switch with worn contacts in which case the switch would need to be replaced

I would like to add that the dash lights are also out. I've alredy checked the fuse and found it to be OK. I tested the switch for continuity the best I could without the advantage of an electrical diagram. Although the switch seems OK I can't be certain of the results. Knowing what contacts to check and the results I should get would certainly be helpful. I would like to be more certain before buying a new costly switch. Any more suggestions?

yes htake each lead comming off the swictch one at a time and put it to the hot side to see if each set of lights is working
so you know for sure

1997 Dodge Ram Van Ignition System   

Hi, I have a 1997 Dodge Ram 2500 Magnun V6 Engine.It also, has electronic door locks, and on the drivers side it has a (panic red LED) and (valet green LED). My door locks, work fine. Sometimes when I try to start my Van with the key, the Van wont start. I have to click the remote power locks on and off. I open, and shut the drivers side door before it will start?

Hello, Do you have an after market alarm system installed?

Sounds like when the doors are unlocked with a key fob the starter interupt is remaining enabled and preventing start up.

Your thoughts?

Roger

I don't believe its aftermarket. It has the Dodge, insignia on the valet armed and panic LED'S. It is a Van conversion,and the locks work fine.

The locks are opened with a remote.

I do not find any technical service bulletins on the subject that address the condition you describe.

Still, I believe what is happening is when you press the remote unlock button the security system doesn't disable properly to allow the starter to work. This should happen at the same time the doors unlock or the alarm could sound.

Design is for the starter to be interupted when the alarm is sounding. In this case the alarm is not sounding but the starter circuit remains interupted until you sucessfully cycle the door locks or the drivers door latch resulting in disarming the starter interupt.

I doubt you can make this repair without test equipment provided to Dodge/Chrysler Dealers. They should be able to monitor parameters of the security system to see if all commands are sucessfully carried out as indicated by feedback circuits.

Roger

Roger, Is there anyway I can disable the system so this does not happen again. I do not care about the anti-theft device working, or the alarm or door locks working. I would just like to be able to start the Van. Thanks, Mike

The remote keyless entry shares a control module with the power door lock system.

This module is located behind the center of the dash and is accessed through the opening provided when the radio is removed.

Circuit breaker 16 (30 amp) in the fuse box powers the door locks but also the power seat switch.

If you do not have power seat you could just remove circuit breaker 16.

With power seat, if you want to try this out and the power seat movement won't have to be moved just pull this breaker and see if that disables the locks and alarm.

Accessing the power lock module and unplugging it is another way to defeat the system.

Roger

Thank you Roger, Is there anyway, I can keep the door locks working and bypass the ignition?

Since the remote keyless entry shares a control module with the power door lock system what we would hope to disable is in the circuits of the module.

Were you to replace the control module and reprogram the remotes I believe you would fix this one.

I don't see a simple way to bypass the security system ignition feed.

Roger

Thank you Roger, I will give it a shot. Mike

Mike, Ready to close this question? If so, please click on OK to finish up.

And if you need something else on this quest just ask.

Thank you,

Roger

1990 Dodge Ram Van Fuel System   

I put a new fuel pump in, and still dont have any pressure and cant hear pump run, just looking for wiring diagrams to test the circuit for any opens and to see if I can jump the pump directly.

Hello, What series van, what size engine? I'll need an email address to send the diagram to please?

Roger

it is a 1990 Dodge Ram B250 Van with the 5.2 V8
[redacted]
also do you have any info on the fuel pump auto shut-down relay?

I'll get a wiring diagram to you.

If the auto-shutdown relay fails to energize the fuel pump relay will not receive power to energize. Fuel pump relay gets it's power from an output terminal of the ASD Relay.

Roger

Wait a second....scratch that previous message. Wait for the wiring diagram. I had my year models confused.

Check your email inbox, spam/junk mail for subject 1990 Dodge Van Wiring. Give me a couple minutes please.

Roger

thanks, while I was waiting I found a broken wire behind the rear passsenger tire that must run the pump, I spliced it and now it runs great!! thanks anyway!
dave

Great!! To close this question please click on OK To Finish Up.

I thank you,

Roger

1989 Dodge Ram Van Fuel System Won't Start When starting Always

No power to the fuel pump... What runs the power to it?

First cycle your key to the on position, not the start position, have someone listen for the fuel pump in the gas tank to cylce/buzz. If there is no sound, either A:the fuel pump itself is toast, B: the fuel pump fuse is blown or C: the fuel pump relay is bad... Good luck!!! Cheers!!!!

How went your problem? is it repaired? Any new info? Could you please settle up your account so it can be closed. Thanks in advance.

1988 Dodge Ram Van Fuel System   

not getting fuel to the carburater. Changed fuel pump and fuel filter but still no fuel. How can I tell if the cam is worn down or the tank sock is clogged? I need help to locate the problem. Thanks Jeannette.

You can hook a hose from the fuel pump intake line to a remote source of liquid (use water if you have enough hose to pump from one contain and recover in a another). Gasoline in a container can be dangerous, other than the obvious is the lack of vapor recovery (what you can't see), especially in an enclosed area (garage). A hose to a remote container eliminates the tanks sock filter and lines.

Also check for a pinched/cracked fuel line.

Any chance the gas gauge is reading incorrecty, and the tank is empty. This suggestion might come off as elementary, but vehicles are towed in for this problem...

Give me an update and we'll continue as necessary.

1987 Dodge Ram Van Fuel System Won't Start When stopped When warm 

choke seems to be stuck open. any suggestions? thanks! Bob

Hello,

Which engine do you have?

It's not the choke. I realize it must be the timing chain. My question is how complicated a job it is to replace it...I won't do it myself, but I want a ballpark estimate. The vehicle is a 5.2 liter, 8 cyl with a/c.
Thanks.
Bob

I can give you a ballpark estimate, but first of all please describe the problem you are having. Will it run fine warm but start hard cold?

It won't turn over at all. A mechanic that lives in our neighborhood listened to it. I was going to have the compression checked, which he identified as low just by putting his finger in the spark cylinder. When it was running it seemed to have little power. Then it would start, but not rev up. Seems consistent with a timing problem.

You can copy and paste the following link into your address bar and use it to price a timing chain kit-

http://www.partsamerica.com/VehicleSelection.aspx?destinationpage=Default.aspx

Should be around $100-150 for parts (chain, gears, gaskets, anti-freeze, oil)- this considers aftermarket parts, expect to pay more for dealer parts. Labor around here would be about the same as parts- our labor rates are low here so yours could very well be higher. Some shops flat rate- which means there is a predetermined amount of time to perform repairs and this what you get charged. These shops can give you an estimate over the phone. Most shops will want to perform diagnostics to confirm the timing chain is bad.

Did the engine smoke or any gas in the oil? How many cylinders did your local mechanic check the compression in, hopefully more than one?

1985 Dodge Ram Van Engine  When repairing 

i am i the process of swapping out the cylinder heads due to burnt valve and low compression (318) i have two different repair manuals and each of them say different things. My question is what exactly NEEDS to be removed to take the heads off. ( do i need to take the air compressor and alternator off) one book says yes the other no!!! What right?? 1985 B250 Ram van 318

Unfortunately the answer is Yes. They will be in the way reguardless of what you do and you will need the room provided. Completely remove the Alternator, unbolt the A/C Compressor and lay it off to the side so you dont have to play with the refrigerant system. Good Luck. AL

1983 Dodge Ram Van Ignition System Tuning  

how do you know which cilinder is #1 on the 318 in the dodge b250 vans for timing and also what is the optimum adv/retard degrees for that engine, and last which direction clockwise/counterclockwise is advance or retard

Cylinder #1 is drivers side front.

Timing is specified at at 8*BTDC to 16*BTDC depending which carburetor and which transmission you have. There is to be a label under the hood or on the air cleaner with your specifications listed.

Clockwise retards and counter clockwise advances the timing.