Eagle Talon

2005 Eagle Talon Electrical / Lighting Systems   

95 talon tsi, std. Will start Ok and run good until it warms up then will start to miss and shut off. Will restart when it cools a little and the same thing . What could be the problem?????

This is usually in the ignition system, module/ignitor/coil or crank/cam sensor.

Do you have a multimeter?

1998 Eagle Talon Drive Train / Driveline   

I just bought 98 Talon transmission appears rebuilt. When driving car it will drive fine. Once I go into overdrive or reverse I have to turn car off and restart to go into drive. All help will be appreciated . Thank You Steve

Hello,

First off, is there a warranty on the car or the transmission?

What is happening? When you drive to speed and the trans shifts to overdrive... is it staying in high gear when you slow down? What happens is after using reverse?

Is this just a case of not being able to move the shifting lever?

It sometimes shifts hard when going into gear. Anytimt it goes from drive to reverse or into overdrive you have to put in park turn key off. Once you turn it back on it shifts fine. Thanx

Hello,

Start by checking the engine and transmission mounts along with the shift linkage.

Was the rebuild done by a chain transmission shop, carrying a national warranty?

I donot know just bought car, Someone said transmission TCM may be going into limp mode. Any Ideas

Maybe, does it appear to stay in one gear when you try driving?

When you shift to reverse and back up... then you try to shift to drive... what happens?

1. You are unable to physically move the shifting lever to drive unless you shut the engine off

2. You can move the shifter to drive but it does not drive???

The shifter goes into all gears fine but it does not engage unless car is turned off and back on

The TCM may be defective or the transmission rebuild may be defective. Most chain transmission shops offer free diagnostics, which should include of a scan of TCM codes.

Does the check engine light come on at anytime while the engine is running? If it does visit an Autozone store and have the trouble codes scanned free of charge. Let me know which alphanumeric trouble codes (Examples-- P0300, P0401, etc are found.

I was hoping you had Talon experience

Hello,

You can check the connections at the transmission. Remove and inspect for moisture, corrosion or pin/terminal damage. wise a scan is required on a computer controlled transmission.

The TCM is located under the center dash and the connections should not have been disturbed on this end. If you wish to try a TCM I can help you find a good price on a used one if you want to replace without diagnostics. If it is not the connections at the transmission the problem can be the TCM or internal transmission as they work together.

If the transmission was rebuilt ti may still have a warranty OR a respectable shop will recheck their work.

I am hoping that a Talon Mechanic will respond thanx for your help.

Here is a few things you might look into:
Talon's have an auto transmission control solenoid that, when failed, can cause it to slip out of gear. (cost $145)They are on Ebay
There is a recall that should be in effect still (saftey item)
April 7 1998 recall #53729 or 98V069002
You might look into both of these first as a rebuilt trans is $1000-$1500.
Bruce

When moving the car shifts through all the gears. Once it hits 5th or after being put in reverse you must shut the car off and turn it back on. This seems to me like it may be a TCU or other electrical problem sending it into limp mode. Thanx

The trans control solenoid might be doing that too. Although it might be the TCU, with the limited diagnostic equipment you have, I prefer to start with the most economical part first.

1997 Eagle Talon Ignition System   

I my car quits running at operating temp, (temps normal) and will not restart until it cools back down (10 to 20 minutes) computer doesn't show any codes, when it shuts down I still has fuel pressure but no current at the incoming wire at coil, and it also turns off the eletric fans at exact time it quits running. replaced coil and both ignition relays, thought it might be computer, please help

Hello, What size engine please? I'm going to get a wiring diagram and see where the power to the coil comes from.

Thanks,

Roger

2.0 nonturobo

Please advise what series Talon this is and if the engine is turbo or non turbo so I can access the data base software.

Thanks,

Roger

just a talon, nonturbo, 2.0 dohc, 5 speed. frony wheel drive not awd

The problem I am having is trying to connect the loss of cooling fans at the moment the engine quits...?

Schematic drawings show there is a common connection below the engine compartment relay box that has one Red wire and six Blk/Red wires. Looks like a bus bar. The Red wire comes from the alternator field coil connector.

The Blk/Red wires from this same bus bar power the ignition coil, the injectors, the auto shut-down relay, front and rear oxygen sensors and the PCM.

Try to locate this connection and inspect it for condition. Best to disconnect the car battery when you do this.

Another area worth looking at is the connector terminals on the ignition switch itself. Look for evidence of heat discoloration.

Please advise your findings,

Roger

1995 Eagle Talon Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction  

Hello
I just lost the highbeams on my 95 ESI talon, the day time running lights are working properly, when I turn the headlights on and try to switch to highbeams the blue indicating light goes on like it should but the actual lights don't I checked all the fuses and relays that I could find.The fuse for the high beams is good but I'm not sure if there is a separate relay for the them and if so where it is located
Thanks in advance
Val

If the low beam headlights are working but no high beam in spite of the blue indicator, then you have a bad wire between the switch and the headlights. Or both bulbs have the high beam filament burnt out, or the bulb connector is bad.
Dale

the bulbs are fine couse I've replaced them with new ones and what are the odds that both conectors on both headlights will go bad at the same time! Could it be that a relay or the headlight/wiper switch has gone bad???
Thanks

It would be easiest if you offered your email address so I can send you diagrams for the headlights.

certainly my e-mail address is: [redacted]
Thanks
Val

email sent,
Sterlingfixer

Thanks Dale for the diagrams and the discriptions just one more thing, you konow what's weird.... when using the flash feature insted of the inner bulbs (DRL) the outer ones go on Is that normal?

According to the wiring diagram, the same bulb is used for low beam and high beam. I do not have the DRL diagram here. The bulbs used should have 3 pins. One is for the power, one is ground for low beam, one is ground for high beam.

1995 Eagle Talon Electrical / Lighting Systems Failing  

I have a 1995 Eagle Talon TSI AWD. This morning when I went to start the car it started, but when I put it in drive it died. I still have power to the door locks, dash lights, door ajar, and the cigarette lighter. However I do not have power to the hoirn, windows, key sensor, and the engine will not start?

Start by checking fuses, battery terminals, engine and body grounds.

1995 Eagle Talon Electrical / Lighting Systems   

my car suddenly started over heating on a short trip I had taken, come to find out my radiator cooling fans are not coming on at all. I've checked the fuses and all seem to be o.k.

Hi, Cooling fans are computer controlled using relays.

Do you find a fuse/relay box under the hood with a legend on or inside of the lid? Can you locate the relays for the cooling fans and see if any of the relay socket terminals are burned or discolored?

You could try replacing the cooling fan relays....or as a test you could run #10 guage wires direct from the battery directly to each fan motor to be sure the motors are good.

Should all fuses, relays, and the motors all prove to be good we'll look at wiring and sensors.

Please advise,

Roger

so I've ck'd the relays and the fan motors, both seem to work when I ran the wire direct from the battery. I also discovered at that time that one of the fans was missing 3 of the housing screws and is quite loose.

With the screws replaced has anything changed that fixed the fan operation?

Do you want/need a wiring diagram?

Roger

Roger

yes, I'd really like a diagram please...as far as the screws, I'm not knowing yet because I hadn't gotten that far yet....I'll let you know though.


Thanks,

Bambi

To refine my research for you please tell me if the car is a Turbo, or a Non-Turbo. Automatic, or manual transmission, Series ESi, or TSi.

Thanks,

Roger

It's a Esi and a manual trans I have a turbo to be
installed, but haven't had the chance to have it put on yet.

May I please have your email address?

Roger

[redacted]


Thanks - B

Almost forgot, a good friend of mine came by and looked the Talon over quickly and said that the water
pump was not working...but that does not explain the
fans not working??? or does it?

Bambi, How does this friend know the water pump is not working? Because the car overheats?

I'll put an email together for you. I may send more than one.

Roger

1995 Eagle Talon Fuel System   

i have a 95 eagle talon esi. thecar will turn over but wont start. spray gas down the intake it will and it has spark. ive changed the fuel pump, straner,filter, crank sensor, injectors computer relays, butn still nothing. gettin g fuel alll the way to the rail. im at a wall

The first thing to check is for Key On positve voltage to the fuel injectors. Place one end of voltmeter to a known good ground and the to the injector plug (unplugged for test purposes). Do you have postive voltage available? If not start by checking fuses.

1995 Eagle Talon Electrical / Lighting Systems   

heater fan does not run which color wire at connection wire at dash controls this some wires recently damaged and pulled apart e

I will see if I can locate a diagram for this.

Where/which wires were damaged? Be sure to check fuses and confirm there is no power to the blower (key On, blower set to HIGH). If the blower has power and does not operate the blower motor has failed.

the wires last run from the engine above the drivers side wheel well a green wire with grey marks that connect to a red one at the electrical connection at firewall rear defogger will not turn on also so i think it is a wire thanks

1995 Eagle Talon Fuel System   

On my 95 non-turbo, automatic eagle talon. When I am driving or not it still does this problem. The problem is that the engine seems to cut out almost like a rev limiter kind of cut out. It seems to do it mostly when on a hill or under acceleration. I have replaced spark plugs, wires, head gasket, transmission. All within the last 15,000 miles. From some of my people I have been getting ideas like throttle positioning sensor, fuel pressure regulator, and fuel pump. If you have any ideas that would be appreciated.

Hello,

Is the engine cutting out at a consistent pedal position? If this is the case it would be tend to point to the TPS.

Any change whatsoever with the tune-up parts?

I assume the check engine light never turns on while the engine is running and you can repeat the problem revving the engine while parked.

usually its around 3000 rpms, but not always it can do it anytime at any rpm. The check engine light is never on when it is running and yes i can do it when in park. But it only happens mostly going uphill.

How often does it happen?

It was just once in a while but now it is quite consistant.

If it is consistent enough, you can test the TPS with an ohm meter. Unplug the connecotor and measure the ohms as the throttle is moved by hand. The ohms should change at a smooth consistent rate. If you catch a glitch the sensor is bad. Repeat the test many times to catch the problem.

could it possibly be a fuel pressure regulator. or maybe the pcv valve.

The fuel pressure regulator could be defective causing low fuel pressure, symptoms would be most noticable on acceleration. As fuel pressure goes, don't forget the fuel filter.

PCV valve, not likely.

Let me know what you have tried so far and what you'd like for additional instructions.

I have tried spark plugs, wires, and air filter. I havent tried anything else because all the things i am getting for ideas are quite spendy. i just dont know where to begin.

1995 Eagle Talon Ignition System   

My son's car stopped starting this past winter, it had a mind of its own started when it wanted. As well it idles rough. We had it to a mechanic who did a compression check, good, a fuel pressure check, good, replace the MAP, computer, IAC and Oxygen sensor, new plugs & wires, new PVC and temp sensor. Only after changing the O2 sensor would the car start on a regular bases but just bairly. It will fire up and then almost stall before it decides to actually settle down and idle but still at a rough idle. On the highway it runs very nice, lots of power and no stalling. The mechanic gave up on the car and I'm at my wits end...I don't want to spend any more for parts that don't change anything. please Help!!

I don't know if this is an ignition issue or what, I was not sure what group to place it under. Oh yes..the fuel pump was changed as well.

I guess I should mention that this car is a FWD non-turbo

Does this engine use an egr valve, this could effectively cause an unseen vacuum leak and cause problems at low rpm's. Make sure there are vacuum leaks, concentrate on vacuum hoses and the throttle body gasket.

Do you get any check engine light while the engine is running?

Did you mechanic mention if there was any trouble codes?

I just talked to the mechanic, he said that he did a vacum leak test and it showed in the good range. As well as checked the EGR vacum and it opened easily, in fact he said that when he opened the EGR value it ran worst. It is throwing a code 36 (not positive about the number) he said it was the Air injection system to the cadaylic converter. We thought maybe this was the issue and possibly the converter was plugged so we dropped the exhast at thte manafold but it still ran like shit.

Did he check the timing and fuel injectors?

Also try plugging off vacuum hoses to see if it will run better. One by one, plug then reconnect. Note- you have to keep vacuum to the map sensor at all times. Make sure to check the hoses from the canister purge soloneoid (charcoal canister).

If the egr is stuck open very slightly it will cause a rough idle. If you open it further the idle will get worse. Blocking the egr passage will prove if it is the problem or not.

1993 Eagle Talon All Part Groups   

I was driving my car and it started chugging then it died ~ it started after about 10min of letting it set. Then it drove perfect. It did it one other time and then I got home from work and went to start it the next day and it will not start. It will turn over but just wont start.

Hello, Do you have fuel pressure and spark?

Your description sounds as though there is a problem with the fuel pump.

Roger

It is getting no spark.

What size engine please? Turbo or non?

Do you have power to the ignition coil?

No spark can be the fault of a failed cam/crank sensor in the distributor. The computer uses the signal from this sensor to determine if the engine is cranking.

Roger

It is a 3.5 no turbo and yes there is spark to that. ASD checked out as well.. Most everything is checking out there is just no spark

You lost me. I have data on a 1.8L, or the 2.0L engine in a 1993 Talon.

Release the question for others to answer. I won't have info on a 3.5 engine.

Roger

Sorry It is a 1998 not a 1993

If you have Key On power to the ignition coil & the check engine light illuminates (as it normally does when you turn the Key On) the most likely failure is the crank angle sensor.

Have you checked for OBD2 trouble codes? Free check at Autozone.

They have checked the crank sensor and it was ok. He has ran every test and they all come back saying the car should run but it will not get spark, he has even put in a new comp. and I guess once again I lied the car is a 1996.

Does the check engine light come on as it normally does with the key on?

Is there reference voltage to the sensors?

Do any OBD2 codes show up, if yes which codes?

What about the coil, if it has power and is being triggered it should fire, if not the coil itself may be bad.

Also, never overlook fuses, relays, battery terminals/cables/ and ground when you experience electrical failure.

no codes show up. He has tried all the grounds and fuses. The Coil is not be triggered but all the tests come back that it should be.

Does the fuel pump run, the fuel injectors pulse, and reference voltage to the sensors?

How has he tested the crank signal?

He tested the crank signal with a vantage metor and the scan came back ok. the fuel pump works but the fuel injectors do not pulse

Sep 11/07 3:42PM: "He tested the crank signal with a vantage metor and the scan came back ok. the fuel pump works but the fuel injectors do not pulse"

Okay, it needs to be checked for cranking rpm's on a scanner. This will reveal if the computer is properly seeing crank signal.

He has already checked for cranking rpm's on a scanner. The computer is properly seeing crank signal. ? just stumped I have had the car in the shop for 3 weeks and he can not find anything wrong with it.. ? :(

Are you missing spark and injector pulse? Or just one?

Has he checked for Key On positive to the injectors (the computer pulses the ground)?

It is missing spark and injector pulse.
Has he checked for Key On positive to the injectors the computer pulses the ground is not working. He said the injector and coil drivers are not working.

It is missing spark and injector pulse.
he has checked for Key On positive to the injectors the computer pulses the ground is not working. He said the injector and coil drivers are not working.

Usually in these circumstances it ends up being the computer ground OR a shorting sensor. Have him unplug sensors one by one to see if this restores function. Also to see if the computer is capable of recognizing a fault code when one exists.

he just went on vaction for a week. Is this something I can do at home? or do I need something special to check things out with?

You could unplug sensors one by one, just note that this will set trouble codes (or should at least).

1992 Eagle Talon All Part Groups Failing When driving When warm 

When I drive for a least 45 minutes at 120 km/h, sometimes my engine looses all power after 2500 rpm exactly. Before 2500 rpm no problem....on any gear. So i'm stuck to drive 80km/h on the highway...The check engine light goes on over 2500, but it goes out a soon as it drops under. Also, after driving a hour at 80km/h, the problem got away and was working fine again....so how will a mecanic find the problem?

This problem sounds electronic in nature. Do you have the Auto or 5 speed? I think that you might have a ECM that is failing. The next time this occurs immediately pull over and shut the engine off. Remove the ground wire for about 30 seconds then reattach. Start the engine and I bet the problem is gone.. for a while. Let me know if I can be of more help. I know of a company that will rebuild the ECM and can ship worldwide. Let me know. AL

Yeah it really sounds electronic. One time I just pulled over for 5 minutes and the probleme was gone. This time I had to drive an hour under 2500 rpm before it was gone....terrible
My car is turbo 5 speed manual front wheel drive. How much do you think it cost to rebuilt the ecu? or how much a new one? I saw a website talking about a Ignition power transistor, do you know if my car has one?
Thanks

a good place to find a used ECM is at www.dsm.org or if you want a certified rebuilt ECM www.foreignecurepair.com. I have also been lucky at ebay.com. I dont recommend changing or adding anything to the car until the ecm is changed out. AL

a good place to find a used ECM is at www.dsm.org or if you want a certified rebuilt ECM www.foreignecurepair.com. I have also been lucky at ebay.com. I dont recommend changing or adding anything to the car until the ecm is changed out. AL"

"a good place to find a used ECM is at www.dsm.org or if you want a certified rebuilt ECM www.foreignecurepair.com. I have also been lucky at ebay.com. I dont recommend changing or adding anything to the car until the ecm is changed out. AL

1992 Eagle Talon Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

my dash lights do not come on when i turn the parking lights on. i checked the fuses all seem to be fine i checked the bulbs they are fine. what can i do to find the problem.

Schematics show that the dash light fuse (fuse #18) is powered up when the tail light relay is energized. Is the tail light fuse good? Do you have tail lights? Is fuse #18 good?

Roger

I've reread your message. I'm looking into the dash lights not working. What is your other question? Did I miss it?

Roger

yes i can wait till tommorrow and also can u answer my other question thank you

Hello, Many cars are wired so that if the tail lights do not work the dash lights won't either. The dash light fuse gets it's power from the lamp circuit side of the tail light fuse. Do you have tail lights?

It will be likely tomorrow before I could get a schematic on your car to verify the circuits specific to your car.

Does your dash light dimming rheostat work to the best of your knowledge? We can rule out the rheostat is not on the dim setting?

Is tomorrow okay (on the schematic)?

Please advise,

Roger

yes i have taillights and all the fuses are good. is there ant way to check if the clester lights up if i pull it out or no?

I doubt pulling the cluster would help at this point because if the dash lights are not getting power then, a/c panel lights, etc, are not working either.

If fuse #18 is good, does it have power on one side or on both sides of the fuse (still plugged-in and when testing with a meter or test light)?

Roger

i tested both sides of the fuse with my dmm and i got power at both sides.

Okay, if both sides of fuse #18 are hot then we know the taillight relay is outputing voltage to and through fuse #18.

Next comes the rheostat for dash light dimming control. Can you access the rheostat and see if the voltage arrives there, (taillights on, fuse #18 good) and leaves from there to go to the panel lights? Power comes into the rheostat on the GRN-WHT wire and goes out on the BLK-YEL wire to the panel lights. The BLK wire at the rheostat is the ground circuit. If there is no output on the BLK-YEL wire the rheostat is likely at fault.

Do you have a FAX number so that I may send you a wiring schematic?

Roger

i dont have a fax number can you e-mail me the schematic of it if not i will get the fax number to my job so you can fax it there.

All right, if allowed to do so I'd like to FAX it to your work number with a cover sheet to ensure it gets to you.

All-Parts policy discourages my emailing anything that doesn't go through them as a matter of privacy protocol.

Please advise the number at which you'll receive a FAX, and a time window if it applies. I'm currently in the Central Standard Time Zone.

Roger

ok ill tell my job tommorrow that im gonna get a fax and ill give you the fax number tommorrow

Thank you, I'll check back for the number.

Roger

the fax number is [redacted] please make sure u write att: Quincy so they can know its for me thank you

Your FAX should be there now.

Roger

Hello, May I hear from you concerning the status of this question, please?

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, I'm hoping you'll update me on the status of your question.

Please advise,

Roger

1992 Eagle Talon Engine   

have a 1992 eagle talon tsi awd. I hav replaced the turbo and new fuel pump and now the car will not start. I can get it to start with starting fuild sprayed in, but that is all. I can not the car to work on the computer. Where can I get engine codes to do a system check?

Use the folling link for trouble codes retrieval-

http://www.troublecodes.net/Eagle/

Are you hearing the new fuel pump kick on when you initially turn the Key On and during engine cranking? If not, start checking fuses, battery terminals, connections at fuel pump, & wiring under the car, etc. You may have accidentally left something unhooked or bumped something.

Will check with the man working on my car. The way he talked it wouldn't turm over

Here is the whole story: the car was running when I took it in. It had no power and no pick up and after running fow awhile it would stop and have to let it cool off. The guy replace the spark plugs and wires. New fuel filter and pump. The old turbo was shooting oil into the motor. He had it running but no power. I got him a new turbo and replaced the old one and nothing. He dwas looking for the codes because the car would "talk " to his computer.

To some 'turn over' means start (run) and to others it means the starter cranks the engines. The correct interpretation is
'turn over' means the start cranks the engine (doesn't matter if the engine starts or not.)

So, was I wrong to assume the engine turns over still but does not start (Crank, No-Start condition.)

We were typing at the same time, I just realized this.

Give me an udate and we'll continue as necessary.

Let me get in touch with the mechanic on Monday and I will give you the latest. Ok

This is was I found out- the car will not start and keep running. He has replaced the spark plugs. The car was running until he put on the new turbo

He should check cylinder compression, to make sure the engine is still capable of running (timing).

I went and tried the car myself. The motor turns over but it seems like it isn't getting gas. f You can spray starting fluid into the ejectors and the car will run. That is all I can tell you

Now you need to check for Key On positive voltage to the fuel injectors. One end of test light or DC Voltmeter to a known good ground and the other end to the fuel injectors electrical connector.

Also listen for the fuel pump, does it prime when you initially turn the key on and during engine cranking?

Will give this a whirl. Oh the owner of the garage whre my car is at is looking for new machanic.

It seems the current mechanic is missing basic trouble shooting procedures, critical to finding the problem.

1992 Eagle Talon Fuel System   

engine cuts out at 7psi boost then clears up a bit above that. starts fine and runs perfect up to that 7 and higher boost.

Check for strong spark. A weak spark shows up under higher boost pressure.

A fuel mixture problem can cause a cutout or a flat spot in the acceleration. If it is mainly at the 7psi boost, you may have a dirty or defective air flow sensor.

Mitsubishi dealer scanned system and found no codes...spark and fuel were good. they wanted to change the plugs and wires( ????? ) I took the car home instead and put in new NGK plugs( it had platnium plugs, all appeared to have been firing well)as a "can't hurt" attempt at a fix.
question: wouldn't the scan picked up a faulty airflow meter?

A simple scan may not pick up a faulty airflow meter, but a scanner can make it a lot easier to diagnose.

Does the car seem to stutter, pause or miss at 7 psi, or is it just a "flat spot" in the acceleration?

at 7 psi it cuts out abruptly,stuttering badly. As the boost pressure continues to increase it changes to a miss. There is some variation in this pattern depending on the load (steep hill etc.) I checked the wastegate solenoid today, its ok. The bypass valve however, fails to open under a constant 20psi vacuum.
This miss/stutter came on suddenly( I'm told . I wasn't driving at the time) an run flawlessly up to that time.

I would use (or buy $7) a high energy ignition spark tester (looks like a spark plug on an alligator clip) and test the spark at the plug under 7psi load. Check each plug wire one at a time. If it sparks consistently on each wire, you can rule out spark as the issue. If the spark is not steady (skips, intermittent) track down the faulty component..wires, coils ignitor, or ECM.

Doesn't it seem the Mitsubishi dealer could have told you more for all the money they charged for diagnosis?

I'll put a tester on the plugs tomorrow. Is the bypass valve an urgent problem? is it stressing to turbo?
troubleshooting is the most difficult and poorest paying job a mechanic faces. Given that, the fact is they didn't want to mess with it. Better money beating the flat rate.

I am not sure that will have any effect on your current problem, but the car will run best with everything up to specs. I would fix it if it were my car.

your right,I'll spring for a new bypass valve

You may want to look closely at the air ducting between the turbo and the intake. If there are any leaks that manly leak under 7psi or greater pressure, it can make the car run very rich and rough.

You could try disconnecting thte wire to the airflow meter. The computer will set a standard value for it instead of actual. If the engine runs better, then the fault is likely in the meter, or vacuum/air leaks.

spark looks good on all cylinders. ran worse with the airflow meter disconnected.all the hoses(intake etc.)are tight and in good condition. the bypass valve is now working properly. this car has 81k original miles and has been garaged and adult driven. like new, as they say.
it seems like a fuel problem to me. what do you think?

Surely sounds that way. Does it run worse on a rainy day? or about the same? If it is worse, try spraying you plug wires (in the dark) with Windex. If you have bad insulation on the wires, it will leak spark and maybe misfire.

rainy weather does not effect the engine performance.

Do we know if the car is running too rich or too lean? This could be checked by watching the oxygen sensor voltage, or by trial and error.

You can make an intentional vacuum leak between the turbo and the intake. This will make the engine run lean under vacuum and rich under turbo pressure. If it runs better at 7psi, we must be too lean. If it runs worse at 7psi, then we are too rich.

1992 Eagle Talon All Part Groups   

i just got my fuel pump, battery cables and ignition switch replaced by a local auto shop. as soon as i got it out it died i took it back and asked the guy and he said the computers gotta get used to all the new parts, is that normal? also when i drive it it seems as though when i push the ga in or even come to a stop it idles up and down real quick and then goes to approx 500rpms and dies at stops, however when driving it takes a while to idle up or it just dies what causes this

There is a 'relearn' period for computers, where the car gets driven under all conditions to actually learn the paremters of the new sensors.If it persists for a few days then return to shop.

ok the mechanic said drive it for about 100 miles and if it still does it then bring it back so that is normal to have it shut off and stuff
thanks

NOW THE CAR WONT EVEN START WHATS THE DEAL WITH THAT IT BROKE DOWN IN THE MIDDLE OF THE INTERSECTION AND I HAVE LET IT SIT FOR ALMOST AN 1/2 HOUR AND IT CRANKS AND EVERY NOW AND THEN IT WILL START BUT DIE IMMEDIATLEY ANY SUGGESTIONS

There are some basic checks you can do to check for fuel/spark. They usually require two persons. Renove 1 plug wire and insert something like a screwdriver in the plug wire end. Have a friend hold the metal shaft of the screwdriver close to a metal part of the engine. Crank over the engine...got spark? If so have a friend listen at gas filler (cap off) while you turn key on and off. Does he hear a buzz or hum. No noise, feul pump not working. If there is a hum, try opening the schrader valve (looks like tire press valve) near throttle body, on fuel line on engine. Just remove protective cap and press inner pin, like you were lessening tire pressure. Gas spray out? If not, you have fuel delivery problem. Might be pump.
(Gas tank full?)

well i took it back to the shop i had it fixed at hopefully nothing new cuz its covered under a one year warranty with the shop but if i find anything else i will let you know thanks for the help

ok the mechanic said that its the fuel pump again, how can a brand new fuel pump break in less than a day, what would cause that.

The only time I have seen a pump quit that quickly is if it is operated with no gas (dry). I am assuming they have some sort of guarantee...

yeah they dop i took it back and its fixed now so i dont know what they did. it has a one year warranty. and the car was on half a tank so there was fuel. thanks if i have any more problems i will lewt you knw

1992 Eagle Talon Electrical / Lighting Systems   

The brake light indicator is on constant which I believe is causing my cruise control to fail. I have verified the switch is working on the hand brake and foot brake. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

How did you verify the switches were working?

Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir to see if it is okay. Also check fluid level sensor.

I pulled the switch out of the circuit and used an ohm meter to verify operation. How do you verify the oil level sensor?

The fluid was the answer for the brake light but my cruise does not function. I will try to locate the fuse for cruise.

Thank you,

Okay, usually when the fluid is low there is a leak OR the brake pads (more common) have worn and will likely need replacing soon.

Let me know what the fuse reveals.

I can not find a fuse anywhere but did trace the wires from under the hood to what appears to be a module for the cruise control. Part# MB686860 G0T10671M. If I unplug this module the cruise activate light comes on at the handle right of steering wheel.

1991 Eagle Talon Engine   

Eagle Talon 1991 (1992 model) 2 litre turbo,60,000 miles. On starting the engine, have to keep at 6000 rpm, or else it stalls. Smoke out of exhaust. Keep up revs to avoid stalling, but can gradually reduce revs to 5000, then 4000. then 3000 taking about 4 mins or more. When get down to 3000 revs, then can engage clutch and move off. After running for several miles, it will tick over at 750 rpm,and will even restart OK. Garage replaced the crank angle sensor, but that did not solve the problem, which returned later.
Have you any suggestions?
Regards
Alan Boyd

What color is the smoke from the exhaust?

Does the smoke continue or clear up?

How long does the engine have to be turned off before the problem reappears?

1. Exhaust is strong white, maybe slightly grey.
(that is from my viewpoint - I'm always sitting in the car, keeping my foot on the accelerator, trying to avoid it stalling).
2. Smoke clears up after perhaps a couple of minutes.
3. Has been as short as 2-3 hours during the day, but always reappears when left overnight.
Many thanks
Alan Boyd.

Smell the oil to see if it smell of gas. Also check the level to see if it has increased.

Check the fuel pressure regulator to see if the diaphragm is ruptured allowing gas to flow through the vacuum hose, thereby flooding the engine.

Does the check engine light come on at anytime the engine is running?

Yes, the engine light comes on for the first couple of minutesa at starting.
Will checking the other items asap

Okay, let me know what you find.

You may also need to know why the check engine light is on-

http://www.troublecodes.net/Eagle/

Above are instructions for checking trouble codes.

1990 Eagle Talon Drive Train / Driveline Slipping Happens always Always

When overdrive button is press the transmission goes into neutral rpm go up.

sounds like a problem with the electric shift solenoids inside the transmission.
Good luck

Walt Boyer
ASE Master Tech

1990 Eagle Talon Engine Overheating  

My Talon TSI AWD overheated on the highway and the radiator lines blew and the car stopped running before I turned it off. The mechanic says there are many burn marks and probably needs a new engine and perhaps a new turbo. He has not looked at it any closer and has not called back. What would this cost and could I replace the engine myself? Are there other potential problems that make it not worth it.

A motor from a junkyard will cost $[redacted] . An engine installation is a large job, with lots of opportunities to make mistakes. If you have a good set of tools and are able to put things back together that you take apart, you may be able to do the job although you will need a lift or winch. A rebuilt engine would be even better, but will require an extra $2000. Talk to your mechanic before you start buying any parts. See what he found out.

1990 Eagle Talon All Part Groups  When idling When warm 

Eagle Talon Tsi Turbo idling rough, varying approximately 300 rpm 800 to 1100 rpm. failed emmisions test at idle - High HC - up around 1100 ppm. tech said that it was running rich. he could smell gas as he was conducting the smog test. I have changed spark plugs and wires, cleaned the mass air flow sensor and throttle body, and changed pvc valve. what's next?

car passed other parts of smog test. it runs very smoothly when accelerating. just the idle is rough.

Is the check engine light on?

We have had some failures of these computers.

If you have the equipment, I would watch the voltage on the oxygen sensor. If it reads over 1/2 volt and not varying at idle, then you certainly are running rich. Rich running at idle can come from dripping fuel injectors, wrong fuel injectors, high fuel pressure, bad computer, bad oxygen sensor to name a few.

the cel is not on does this eliminate the computer as the problem? the computer did crap out on me a few years ago, but i don't recall if the cel came on or not.

The computer can fail with or without the check engine light.

One more thing. Before trouble with the rough idle, I had the timing belt changed. according to my trouble shooting guide, rough idle could be due to timing off. But when accelerating, it seems to be running smooth. Can the timing be off and only noticable at idle?

Yes, if the timing belt is off one way, it will kill the power on the top end. If it is off the other way, it will idle poorly.

1990 Eagle Talon Engine   

At low speeds, engine "jumps" but doesn't die. Seems to get better with speed. I have replaced fuel filter, air filter, plugs and wires. Could it be a vacumn issue? Thanks

Although it might be a vacuum hose, it might also be a sensor.Many auto parts stores offer a free scan for codes that will tell you if it is a sensor problem.Also this time of the year there is some times a bit of water in the gas and this can also cause erratic idling.Also removing the air intake hose from the throttle body and spraying in some "Air Intake Cleaner" can help if it is getting dirty in there.

Thanks for the quick reply. However, I just had knee replacement surgery and it will be 3-4 weeks before I can check it out

Knee surgery yuk! Hope I never go there! Good time to do it is the winter though...get well!