Ford Aerostar

2001 Ford Aerostar Ignition System   

This van was always starting quickly from a first try, but for the last couple of month it started only on the third try regardless of being hot or cold. Yesterday, the starting become worse: had to crank it 5 or more times to start and eventually the engine stopped while driving. The very first spark plug I checked did not produce any sparks while cranking. Please let me know what could be wrong here. Thank you.

Thats a tough one as one can only guess!
If possible borrow a "scan tool" and check for codes. wise its gonna be a guessing game. Possibly a coil, as they can
break down if the spark plugs are really old and that can put a higher load on the coil.
Fresh plugs and a coil might be a fix. It might also be a sensor such as the crank position sensor but a scanner would verify that...
Try the other plugs for spark.?

1999 Ford Aerostar Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction Happens sometimes No pattern

Sorry, I have a 94 Aerostar 3.0 2WD with 200K+ miles on her. She is leaking oil real bad and when I put her in gear to drive or reverse from a park/idle she hesitates for a moment sometimes longer or won't go at all. I was told by our local Auto Zone dude, that she needs a new Rack and Pinion to start with. I searched and found a few rebuilt ones online for about 130 bucks with a 90.00 core deposit. I read somewhere that OEM parts are best and last longer. Do you agree? And how hard is it to replace a rack and pinion? My only experience is putting in a new radiator, replacing hoses etc. My husband has a bit more but nothing major. Mahalo for your time.

Can anyone walk me through the replacement? or at least hit the major hightlights?

Hello, A rack and pinion steering gear assembly can be cumbersome to the inexperienced.

Have you looked to determine how much room you have to work?

Basically a re-man gear is just as good as OEM so long as you are happy with the warranty it comes with. If you install it yourself, the labor is not covered whether OEM or not. When you are finished you will need to set the toe-in (a front-end alignment procedure)

The delayed engagement when you put the vehicle in gear has no relation to the steering rack and pinion issue. You'll need an opinion from a local transmission technician to get a perspective on repair costs.

Do you want to replace the steering rack yourself? I'll try to guide you if you want to proceed.

You may also find help at your local public library where reference books are on the shelf.

Please advise,

Roger

Thanks for the quick reply.
I found a brief run through of steps needed to put in a new rack on a 93 4.0L 4WD Aerostar. I figured, the steps might be about the same for my 94 3.0L 2WD right?
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263911
Do you have any ideas on what is causing the delay in shifting gears though? I am hoping this will answer the mystery of why I need to put Power Steering fluid in constantly. Because, my husband and I have tried to find a leak when I turn the wheels, but nothing. Mahalo again*

1997 Ford Aerostar Fuel System Smelling  

Several years ago a rear end collision required rear and side panel body work. Ever since there is a strong smell of gas in van when it is topped off. Worse if driven up hill. This goes away soon when when gas is used. "Check Engine" light also goes on freqently although engine is running normal. I suspect an overflow tube was left off. Thanks,

It certainly is worth a check for a line left off. The check engine light is because the fuel system is not holding pressure as it should. This is caused by your leak, or hose that was left off, or not connected.

1997 Ford Aerostar Engine Malfunction When driving No pattern

I have a 1997 aerostar 4.0 I notice when driving at low speeds the egine will surge like your giving gas and letting up but this will go away as you pick up speed. Also when you slow down from highway speeds and then resume or lets say accelarate it will miss out a couple of times then as you get up to speed this goes away. Took to ford they said fuel pump was bad put in new one 425.00 Still the same thing then this runs real good any ideas.

Hello, Why did you not go back to Ford and demand that they fix your vehicle? I'd be so hot one could see me glow. I don't get loud but I don't back down. I know it must have stung to pay that bill. They should stand behind their work.

If their diagnosis did not fix it then you should not have to stand the cost of their guessing. I recommend you tell the Owner/Dealer what happened and ask for an appointment with the Ford Service Representative for your zone. You deserve what is fair and no less.

That said, take a look at the air intake hose/tube to the throttle body. Look for loose clamps, splits in the tube, etc. If air can get in any way other than through the air filter then the computer does not "know" the true mass air flow volumn and call for the correct amount of fuel.

The throttle body may need cleaning. You may have a vacuum hose connection loose, split or disconnected.

Thoughts?,

Roger

1997 Ford Aerostar Ignition System Won't Start When starting When cold

There seems to be no spark when engine has been off for more than 1 hour. After playing with ignition key and only when hum of fuel pump comes on and off after 5 secs does the car start. there is no spark at coils when it acts up.

Hello,

Which engine do you have?

Have you had the troubles codes accessed? Autozone and Advance Auto will check the codes free of charge. If the check engine light comes on at anytime while the engine is running have the codes checked. Let me know the actual code numbers, IE- P0300.

There was an egr trouble code about three months back but has gone off since than. There are no trouble code at present. No check engine light.

Most likely the cranshaft position sensor or the ignition switch itself.

Is the check engine light coming on when you first turn the key on, as it normally does? If not the system is not powered up.

If it does test the crankshaft position sensor.

Had to bring it for service today, didnt have choice. The technician narrowed it down to a coolant sensor malfunction. He had the luxury of swapping a few parts before pin pointing the problem. thanks for trying, tough to diagnose over the net. he also thought it was an ignition switch.
Ps. cant understand why for awhile it would start after wiggling the ignition key. I guess this why ford reconmends wiggle test.

I wonder if the coolant sensor was shorting. This is the only way I can speculate the coolant sensor would be capable of shutting down spark and fuel. Please stop back in a few days and let me know if this really fixed the problem. Good luck

It happened again this morn, it would not start until I wiggled the key between on and start for at least twenty seconds and than I would hear the hum of fuel pump and turn the key all the way and bingo it starts. This wiggling energizes ignition and fuel.
Odd, any Idea.

I have to wonder if the ford tech began replacing parts during the no start period- and by happenstance after the coolant sensor swap the engine fired up. If so this is not proper diagnosis, not when you are paying. You should be given a refund or they should fix the real problem free of charge. Call the service manager and offer complaint. If this yields no results call the salesman and give him a chance to make it right.

I still have to wonder about the ignition switch or it's connections. A bad relay is also possible. YOu need to find someone that will do key on voltage checks during the no start period. This will allow the individual to find the circuit that is lacking power and trace it the falfunctioning component.

How many diagnostic hours did they have on your vehicle?

It was a small service station that tried to repair the problem. Got my money back for labor but decided to keep the coolant sensor. You metion relay, can it malfunction when van is cold. Which relay controls the spark and primes the pump @ the same time.

Sorry for the delay.

I will need engine size to offer more detailed information on diagnostics.

Its a 3.0 litre engine with AC

You need to see if the ignition switch is sending power to the PCM (computer) relay. If you don't have wiring diagrams I can send you some if you reply with an email address.

BTW- During the no start period, does the check engine light turn on as it normally does when turn the key?

1997 Ford Aerostar Ignition System Lagging When driving When warm 

I did'nt seem to get enough information on your problem.It somtimes happens.Send the info again and we'll see what can be figured out.
Thanks,
Paul

I have a 1997 ford aerostar with 67,000 miles. The other day I got on the freeway and got up to about 70mph and it felt like something was wrong. The van started to act like the engine was missing. Then the engine light went on. IT seemed to lose power and when I got off the freeway it felt like it would died. I made it to a gas station and the guy there said it sounds like the spark plugs are bad. Would the engine light come on just with bad plugs?

Thanks

O.K.,before we can dismiss this as spark plugs,we need to explore a few more areas.You say you limped it into a service station where they assumed it to be the plugs.The fact that it was still running te;;s me you still had some spark and were getting at least minimal fuel to the injectors.There are a few sensors that come to mind that would not only cause this type of problem but also engage the check engine light.Have a systems diagnostics scan done before you just replace the plugs.Check with one of your local chain store parts houses.Some are offering this service for free or at a nominal charge.The sensors I'm thinking of will have sent a code to the ECM that can be retrieved that may pinpoint the problem without throwing parts at the vehicle.The sensors I'm thinking of are the MAP,TPS and O2.All of these work in unison to control air,fuel and exhaust consistency.
Good Luck,
Paul

1997 Ford Aerostar Drive Train / Driveline Slipping When accelerating When warm 

1997 Ford Aerostar, 4.0 liter V-6, AWD, On highway driving up hill at 70 mph with the van fully loaded the was a shudder and loss of speed. The shudder stopped when I lightened up on the gas pedal and gradually slowed down from 70 to 50 mph which was a little bit better than trying to glide up the hills. The shutter wasn't as noticeable or as bad when the van was unloaded. Would a simple transmission service, i.e., change fluids and adjust bands be effective or would it need to be overhauled? Thanks

Did you get my reply?

I did not get your reply. Please send to [redacted]

Transmission is almost gone.
Have trans pan removed, check for debris.
New filter and gasket and add abt 3 ltr fluid. Then have it powerflushed,
This will buy you some time, so you can put together $$ for rblt or used trans.
These later trans use a lot of elec. solenoids and pistons with close tolerances,not regular servicing results in varnish buildup on pistons etc.
90 % auto trans failure due to overheating, get biggest trans cooler you can afford.
Bruce

1997 Ford Aerostar Engine   

I have a load tapping noise located center rear engine below the oil pump drive gear. It's in time with the valve movement. I have good compression on all cylinders, with 120k miles on the engine. also the engine wants to and will lock up when trying to start. feels like its out of time. But if I crank it with the wire off the coil pack ( no spark ) it won't lock up. Thanks, Steve

Hello Steve, unfortunatly its sounds like you have a major engine problem. Your on the right track to find it though. You will want to start the motor and remove on plug wire at a time until you pull the one that stops the tapping/knocking. You could have a worn rod bearing,bad connecting rod or end cap...even pistion slap. Either case its not going to be easy or cheap.

The engine really won't start, the noise is there just
cranking it. At one point it went away, so I hooked the wiring back up and it started but it didn't last. So the noise seems to be related to the problem of it starting. I think new lifters are cheaper than an engine replacement, but I want to be as sure as possible before diving into tear down mode. Is there anything else happening with the oil pump gear or in that area to effect this problem?

ok, I took at as it was running... since it does not start... I would like you to remove the distributor cap...mark where the rotor is pointing...then with a socket turn the crank,counter clockwise(backwards)turn it a HALF turn. then note the rotor position.the rotor should have moved close to half way around.. if not, you may want to check the timing chain.

Hey Tony, sorry for the delay, I'm not used to this
system.Anyway, this is a 97, 4.0 aerostar with elec
ignition. I checked for play in timing chain, its ok.
I just removed valve cover and am using a stethascope
to listen and pin point the clicking noise.It now seems to be coming more directly from the freeze plug
in the rear of the piston head. I'm not sure how to check these valves and rods for faults.

its ok, no need to feel bad about a delay...
I hate to give bad news..but I think your going to need to remove the oil pan and check the rods and bearings..... Try removing just the plug wire for that cylinder,does it crank normally then?...start???

I have a good friend and retired mechanic who's trying to help me. We rechecked the timing chain, seems fine.
Got it running, noise goes away but has no power, he
says it has all the feel of a timing chain problem.
Could the ECM have any bearing on the timing? I would
think it would, it's the only thing left.
When it initally died it lost all power and had no spark.I replaced the coil pack and a relay that my friend found trouble shooting with a snap'on computer sysssss

actually,no. The computer doesnt not set timing until its running...while cranking to start its all a base idle setting.

Well, it did start right up, with the plug wire off, just once thou. It sounds pretty quiet when running
just no power. So, am I back to the oil pan removal?

Perform a cylinder compression test. If valve timing is off it will show up as low compression.

Quiet running with no power could point to two other things, either low fuel pressure or a restricted exhaust.

When it does run, is the check engine light on?

I've checked cylinders, all at 140. I'm pretty sure
the check engine light is on due to all the combinations of running and testing conditions.

I concur with the previous diagnostics if the oil pressure is low.
wise it could be an electronic/computer/sensor issue which will show up with a diagnostic scan.
A collapsed lifter is best diagnosed with valvecover off. A rocker and or pushrod will be noticably looser than the others. If noise goes away after starting, or diminishes then the lifter might be getting enough oil to quieten it.
Either way, a good oil pressure is required.
Try to disconnect battery for a few minutes to reset computer and reset check engine light.

What computer sensors and electrical components would effect the motor to loud tap and almost lock up when cranking and run like its out of time?
What error codes might it give, I'm desprit

actually there are several sensors that might be at fault, from the coolant temp sensor to one called a knock sensor (which retards the timing, if the engine knocks).
Getting it scanned for codes mighe be a good idea, some auto parts stores offer that service for free.

Can you recommend any of those hand held diagnostic
tools from say, Discount auto ,to do most test, especilly the ones I need to do in this case, that arn't too pricey? I'd like to own one for future
events.

Most are good, like with anything you could check the reviews on the 'net. Unfortunatly the one I have been usung is from Snap On Tools (read:expensive!) Even the most basic code reader will be helpful.

It's been over a month now, I've had the computer replaced and sensors checked.Told it is ready for new engine.Got reburbished ATK engine installed by trusted
mechanic.Its still acting like it's out of time.
Local Ford service said the computer has necessary
up grade, and I have internal engine problems.If every thing is fine,could some weird ground or short cause the ecm to not do its job? Has anyone ever here of a ecm taking out a whole engine? Whats the strangest place ot check

Grab a good wiring diagram (either Ford or Haynes and see where the ecu is grounded. Yes a bad ecu can cause many problems, and a loose wire can also do the same.
Usually there will be a code set when something fails, but if it is a computer problem, sometimes there is no code.

1996 Ford Aerostar Engine Malfunction When accelerating Always

While driving check engine light came on and started to over heat. Towed to ford dealer, replaced both heads engine was running rough when picked up. It was diagnosed to be the transmission which was then replaced, still running rough. Replaced mass air sensor, cleaned injectors 4 times, new cam sensor, replaced one O2 sensor still have the problem. Runs rough when there is a load on the engine especially when the a/c is on and your accelerating or traveling up a grade.

Hello, This is a terrible way for you to be treated by a Ford Dealer. Don't stand for it. Call the Ford Motor Company customer service toll free number and ask for a meeting with the Zone Representative For Service. The service manager at the dealer should set this appointment for you if he does what he is supposed to. But, I wouldn't count on it now. Take control.

Basically, you will be filing a "Zone Complaint" against this dealer. Their abuse of your funds and trust needs to be reviewed by the zone rep.

Please see: http://ford.com/en/support/contactUs.htm?source=botnav#ford

Tell the rep what you have been through and show the repair order history to back you up. Be fair and don't lose your temper no matter what. When you have been heard and hopefully shared a road test with the rep, you should get some answers. He has a "Goodwill" account and can assist you monetarilly if he agrees Ford has a liability to your being satisfied. He can direct the dealer on a course he needs to take to keep your loyalty and repeat business. You'll soon know the quality of the representative you have met with.

I'm serious, you deserve better. I can't possibly offer a suggestion that will work for you with more effect on the results you need.

Sincerely,

Roger

1996 Ford Aerostar Engine Chugging Happens sometimes When warm 

The CHECK ENGINE light has been on for a while now. Three of the codes point to the emission system, and one to a misfire in cylinder four. After the engine gets warm, and I slow down or stop, when I accelerate the van seems to shudder and vibrate and seems to have no power - I guess you could say the engine is chugging. If I try to accelerate too quickly, the vibration gets worse and the CHECK ENGINE light flashes on and off. I can accelerate slowly and once I get above 50 mph, the van runs fine. I don't know if I have an engine air problem, fuel problem, transmission problem, or what. I have replaced the IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE and the MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR since on my previous 1995 Aerostar those parts were often a problem. Any ideas? I can't afford to take it to a Ford dealer, my favorite garage can't fit me in until next week, and they don't do transmissions, so I'm not sure which shop to take it to. Thanks.

Have you done a basic tunue-up? When the check engine light flashes it's because of a severe misfire that can damage the catalyst.

What is very important is to give me the actual trouble code designations. Examples are 'P0300, P0420, etc. If you don't have the codes available- Autozone or Advance Auto will pull the codes free of charge. Please make certain to give me the trouble code numbers and NOT the autoparts stores description of the problem (this can be confusing and unfortunately they [sometimes] misinterpret the problem)."

More info... The engine is a 4.0L. The four codes pulled were P0141, P0304, P0401, and P1443. I did have a tune-up within the last year, although I don't mind doing it again soon. I await your reply.
Thanks.

If possible, while it is dark out-

1. Let the engine warm
2. Block the wheels
3. With engine idling look for any misfiring between the plugs and coil. It'll be easy to see in the dark.
4. If you don't notice anything, with the wheels still blocked and parking brake applied, have an assistant place the trans in drive and apply slight throttle. The idea is to recreate the misfire and see if you can see (IE) arcing plug wires, etc.

Don't attempt this if it can't be done safely. A safer alternative is to spray the coil, plug wires, etc with a salt water solution. Give them a fair misting at idle and see if this creates a misfire.

It's tough to predict with certainty how you vehicle will act with so many codes appearing. It may be worth disconnecting the battery cable (and press the brake to deplete capacitors), this will clear the codes. Does it run better for a while? Once the engine light reappears see what code have come back (it's tough to deal with numerous codes at once).

Our first round with this will be identifying between a computer, ignition, or mechanical problem. I wasn't suspecting so many codes (you precis of the codes was good).

I have not had a chance to do the first things you said. I did disconnect the battery, and when the check engine light came back on, I had one less code. I still have P0141, P0304, and P1443. Perhaps the MAFS fixed P0401. What is odd, is that the problem is intermittent. Most of the time it happens after the engine warms up and I have slowed down or stopped. This afternoon, when I left the house to go to Auto Zone to pull the codes, it started almost right away and I wasn't sure I would even get there. I just drove slow and it got better but not great. Saturday night and Sunday morning driving to and from work, it never happened at all. I just don't understand. I'll wait to hear your reply and then I guess I'll take it to my garage as I do have an appointment later this week. I appreciate all your help and will ok the payment after your next reply whatever it is. Thanks so much for your help.

Susan

If you have an appointment to go to the shop it would be best if you didn't try anything else. Some of the tests, etc can set troublecodes that be midlead your mechanic. Also it's important that your car is driven (usually 40-60 miles) after the trouble codes have been cleared so the computer (acually a PCM) can run it's test. If not, when the shop hooks up their scanner they will get 'Not Ready' on some parameters- this will likely delay proper diagnosis.

If it's still your intention to take the vehicle to the shop (which I recommend at this point), please don't close the question. I will stick with you through the repair and advise you if the shops diagnosis is plausible.

Wow, thanks. I will let you know what they say. My appointment has been pushed off until a week from today. How do I update you? Also, if I release payment does that close the question? I was thinking of just having them change plug and wires regardless and see what that does. Does P0141 indicate the Oxygen sensor should be replaced? Should I not try to replace the PCV and the O2 sensor before next week? Why do you think the problem is here one day and gone the next? With all these questions, I think I should increase the payment :-). I know how hard it is to diagnose from a distance. Thanks, Susan.

Unless the O2 sensor wires are shorting you should not notice such a drastic change in performance.

Here one day and gone tomorrow- that is the nature of tough problems.

Yes, if you release payment the question closes. So please don't ;)

I will do further research on your problem and see if I can piece all the codes together. I'll give it my best.

1996 Ford Aerostar Brake System  When braking Always

We have a taxi co. and this problem is about to put us out of business!!! We have 2 Areostars that have the same problem! When you are driving at any speed and you just touch the brakes the rear locks up instintly. We have parts vans that just came off the road with no brake problems, so trial and error is not costly just time consuming. We ended up canging EVERYTHING twice with used parts except for the hoses, wheel cyl and shoes which were replaced with new. NO DIFFERANCE! Took it to local brake shop, $250 later and still no difference! Took to Ford dealer $750 later and still no difference! And they are saying "Do'nt know what to tell ya" DEALERS SUCK!!! So I put an aftermarket poporsioning valve in the rear line and even with that turned all the way down still no difference! I have talked to meny other machanics and no one has a clue. DO YOU?

Do you have rear antilock brakes? If yes, does the problem still occur if you deactivate abs?

What is the process to get the rear brakes to release-

Do they lock and release on their own?

Or must you manualy release the brakes?

Etc?

1996 Ford Aerostar All Part Groups Making Noise Happens always No pattern

My Aerostar is making a terrible squealing/squeaking noise from the Serpentine belts or pulleys. I replaced the tensioner pulley and one of the idler pulleys after trying some spray on the bearings. The lube in the bearings stopped the noise. I replaced the pulleys and still have the noise from somewhere near center of front of engine. Sounds like water pump but may be fan clutch or another pulley? Please help. Everything is lined up and the tension is checked to be proper. Peter

What you need to do is carefully using a long extension or prybar, touch one end to the componants on the engine and put your ear on tthe opposite end(with engine running) and listen for where the noise is the worse. could be alternator or water pump. Just make sure not to touch the moving parts with the tool (ears). If I can assist you further you can contact me direct at [redacted] upon accepting this answer. Good luck and thank you

Walt Boyer
ASE Master Tech

While waiting for your reply I got a freind of mine to help me out. He was sure it was a pulley so we replaced an idler and a tensioner one too. When we finished that, and released the tension back on the belt, we double checked everything before starting engine. Started it up and the noise made no change.

I took it back to the shop where I had the belt replaced at weeks agon and they said "its the ider pulley" I laughted in his face and showed him that I replaced already. I said "let's just try another belt in there" He put it in and the noise stopped.

Now anytime I hear some belt noise in a vehicle, Even if it has just been replaced, I will change it before I do anything else. Forget the belt dressings and penetrating oil sprays. Just slap a new belt in there and that should do it. Unless of course, you don't have a bad pump or something else.

That is great that you were able to fix it. Hopefully they didnt charge for the new belt. Smart thing on your part to suggest it. Always good when it is something simple and not expensive.

1996 Ford Aerostar Engine   

Every once in a while, the van would run rough right after starting for about 10-20 seconds, and then would smooth out after being put in drive. Now, it's running rough all the time and the "check engine" light is on. I looked at it with the hood up,and the engine is shaking side to side. Not violently, but the way it looks when it's being started. It's a 4.0l AWD. It seemed like one of the cylinders wasn't firing, because it's a smooth or regular rough idle, if you know what I mean...so I checked the spark plug cables and they're all still on the plugs, at least.

It sounds like you may have a TPS or MAF sensor problem and quite possibly an O2.See if you can have the vehicle scaned.Check with one of your local parts houses(AutoNation,PepBoys etc)Some offer the service for free. than that,the next thing I would check for is vaccum leaks espeacially around the throttle body and intake manifold itself.

There are no Pepboys or Autonation stores in my area. I'll go to Sears and get an

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=SEARS&sid=I[redacted] 00085&pid=[redacted]

If that link didn't work, it's an Actron Pocketscan code reader. Unless you say it's a piece of crap, I'll go buy one and do the scan and see what it says. I can probably do the rest myself, but if not, I might message you again.

I cant say its a piece of dirt but I will say that some scanners will not pick up codes on pre '97 vehicles.It seems that a big change was going on in this area and some manufactuers just wouldnt give up there codes to try and save themselves from the shadetree mechanics in this world.There are some scanning devices out there that will trip the ECM and you will get a code reading via a dashlamp light.The lamp will flash almost in a morse code fashion;blink---- blink blink blink.Youll have to watch the sequence in which it blinks to determine the code if any has been set in the ECM.Once you get a code you can refer to the proper flow chart and try and pinpoint it down.Again,I cant say the tool you have is not worthy,but it just may not be the one you need.

If the scanner from Sears doesn't work to my satisfaction, then it'll be returned lickety-split. Then, I'll just go ahead and replace the MAF and O2 sensor and the other one you mentioned. The van has about 120 K on it, so it's time all those things were replaced anyways, I guess. I'll let you know tomorrow if I have any problems. Thanks for your help so far and quick responses. I'll recommend this site to my friends who are less-than-perfect mechanics. :) It used to be easy to work on cars...now there are so many darn emission controls and electronic doo-dads on there that can screw everything up!

Ok, so I bought the scanner and drove the van for a few miles and this is what it said after I parked and did the scan (check engine light was NOT lit up this time)

PO304 Pending (cylinder 4 misfire)
1 Incomplete monitor: CATALYST
6 Ready monitors: MISFIRE, FUEL, COMP, O2 SNS, O2 HTR, EGR

So it looks like there's a problem with the O2 sensors (there's 2 of them on the van, one before the catalytic converter and one behind) and possibly a problem somewhere else, too. What I will do now is test the O2 sensors on the bench using the procedure outlined here: http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/O2_Sensor.html

If they test bad, I'll replace them. If they test ok, I'll need some advice about where to look next.

Glad to hear your on to good track.Make sure to follow all instructions from "top to bottom".Ive seen many a time where a tech will stop at one part only to find the problem was caused by another part further down the chain(snowball effect)If you need further assistance,I'll see what I can help you with.
Good Luck,
Paul

One of the O2 sensors tested bad on the bench, so that's been replaced. That wasn't the main problem, though. While investigating the cylinder #4 misfire, I discovered the spark plug wire to that cylinder was burned severely in one spot. Rubbing against the exhaust manifold, I think. I took the wire right off the spark plug and started it up and guess what. It sounded just the same as when the spark plug was connected. So I think that's my problem. I'll replace that wire and see if that solves it. These Aerostars sure are a pain to work on. Never seen spark plugs so inaccessible.

Still sounds like youre heading up the right avenue.Yes I know accesibilty to alot of parts on most all of todays vehicles is rather difficult.I can still remember climbing in the engine compartment of my '66 Fairlane to change my plugs.Those were the days.
Good Luck,
Paul

Well, it looks like that number 4 spark plug wire was the problem. I got some new wires and made sure to route that one away from the exhaust manifold. Thanks for all your help...

Happy to hear your on the road to recovery.Next time a problem arises that has you scratching your head,submit a question to this site and we'll scratch them together.I've been turning wrenches for some 30 years and still find a new one every now and then.
Good Luck,
Paul

1996 Ford Aerostar Engine   

My 96 Aerostar started chugging when I was driving it last night, and now this morning. It has trouble going uphill. The engine chugs along. When it's going on a flat road, it seems to do OK, but sometimes it will start to chug - like it's driving with spasms. Today, the "check engine" light came on. We had major work done to the engine a year ago, including work on the valves.

I have to log off and go to another computer - please be sure to reply to my question! Thank you!

How long will I have to wait for an answer? I'm only here until 4:00 pm PST! Thank you!

Hi,
Most likely you do not have a major problem like last year. It sounds to me like you have a misfire such as could be caused by a bad spark plug wire. If you have the computer scanned, it should point you in the right direction now that the check engine light is on.

1996 Ford Aerostar All Part Groups   

my van started making noise and slowing down, I looked at the oil gauge and it was in the red I pulled over right away. checked dip stick no oil on it!!! my van was just in the shop for a catastic converter and at that time they wrote and (296 miles ago) told me the put in 2 qts of oil. my van was not leaking oil. WHAT HAPPED TO THE OIL

If there is no leak, and the oil, is going down, I would get a compression test, as it might be burning oil.That also might also be the reason for the catalyctic converter failure.When the comp. test is done, and if any cylinders are low, also have a wet comp. test done.Check oil level daily until problem is addressed.

1995 Ford Aerostar All Part Groups Sticking When shifting Always

We have a feature that you have to depress the brake in order to shift from park. However, this feature sticks and it takes sometimes 10 minutes to get it out of park, you have to keep pressing the brake. We bought the van used and do not have an owners manual. There is a sticker on the dash that tells the brake has to be decompressed to shift into drive, see owner's mannual to override this feature, but we don't have one. Please help.

The way to override the feature is to turn the key to the first position, then shift the transmission to neutral to start it. All will be well until put in reverse again. NOTE: USUALLY IF YOU CANNOT SHIFT OUT OF PARK, THE BRAKE LIGHTS ARE NOT WORKING! Get the problem repaired, or you may have an even LARGER problem.

1995 Ford Aerostar Engine Malfunction When starting When warm 

Our 1995 AWD Aerostar (300+K) recently runs very rough when started warm. No problems after a minute or two or when cold.

Have the vehicle scaned for either a MAF or TPS sensor.
Good Luck,\{aul

1995 Ford Aerostar Engine Chugging When starting When warm 

4.0 AWD with 140k miles. Started about 20K miles ago and just gets worse every summer. After engine is turned off hot, is seems loaded up on restart for a minute or two(unless is sits for about 2-3 hours). If the weather is normal or cool there is never a problem. Exact same thing happened on my other Aerostar at about the same mileage. Can't say for sure, but it could be a tad worse with gasahol.

What if any repairs did you do to the prior vehicle? The problem you are discribing sounds like an iherrent problem that Fords have. Without scanning the system for any types of codes, there are several factors that come into play,namely the MAF,O2,TPS sensors and quite possibly the fuel injection. Check with one of your local parts houses(Pep Boys,Auto Zone,etc).Some offer this sevice free or at a nominal charge. If a codee is retrieved,dont take there word as to the correction but rather ask if they can supply you or guide you to where for the flow chart that pertains to the code retrived. I have seen too many people stop at the first part on the chart only to have the problem reoccur. You must follow the chart in its entirerty to make sure problem is solved. Again a scanner device needs to be involved. Depending on the type of scanner the tech uses, all codes new and old can be retrieved if used right. When one code is taken care of a new one my appear or if one of the old ones that was retrievd relates to the part that has just been replaced, theres a good chance that the old code has a direct factor with this part and needs to be scrutinized. As far as the gasahol, if the vehicles injectors cant relate with this type of fuel, you may have an injector(s) clogged or continuing to dump fuel into the chambers after shut down. Again, a code would be present for this type of situation.If this is the case, I would have the fuel injection throughly flushed and cleaned and add an injection cleaning additive to the gas(make sure to read the label to see if it is compatable with the gasahol) before going directly to changing out the injectors.Once this is done,again,the code needs to be removed to assure proper relays through the system.
Good Luck,
Paul

1995 Ford Aerostar Chassis / Suspension & Steering Leaking When braking Always

We have discovered the leak is coming from the overflow valve thingy below where you add brake fluid. We have replaced the brake shoes (which were still ok but would have been changed soon anyways)and the overflow valve as well.But the leak still persists. We do not know what to do next to stop it from spewing brake fluid every time you apply the brakes.

Is the fluid leaking from the master cylinder? Have you changed the master cylinder?

No we haven't replaced the master cyl. and no the leak is coming from what looks like an overflow valve you can see is squirting out when the brakes are applied, it sits just below and is conected just below where you add the brake fluid.

Is the brake light on the dash coming on from loss of brake fluid/ pressure?

Does the picture at the following link look like your master cylinder and brake fluid reservoir -

http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images//img/ben/12572.jpg

Yes that is the component but the leak is below that. I have taken a picture of where it is leaking from how do I send it to you?

[redacted]

Was there a part name on the sales receipt, or do you have the part number and name of the store?

I have sent a picture of where the fluid is leaking from [redacted] My friend replaced the part he did not tell me the name of it and it just continued to leak.

I have a copy being sent to me, my computer does not display the picture properly. Was the replacement part new?

I don't know I don't think so

It'll have to be checked for proper installation, if installed properly it must of been a bad replacement part.

The part was installed properly and did the exact same thing the original part did. It worked for a short time and then blew the little black plug that was on the end spewing brake fluid. I was told it may be a pressure problem but they were not sure where to look, my mechanic has been asking a number of other mechanics as it is an unusual problem. He had checked the all brakes replacing the rear shoes and the lines and such. He was thinking of replacing the master cylinder next, but I was hoping to be sure that would fix the problem before taking that step.

1995 Ford Aerostar Ignition System Stalling When idling Always

The vehicle is a 4.0L 4WD van. About a month ago the van would be driving and all of a sudden jerk a little, and the check engine light would turn on almost as if something electric shorted out. The van engine wouldn't run properly once the light turned on; there would be a rolling idle and sometimes stall. The Engine light on is more frequent now; in fact it is on about 99%. If not on the vehicle will jerk while in motion, and then turn on amidst the trip. The garage says the diagnostic computer blames it on an ignition part. They quoted $385 for the part. Is a $385 part necessary or could I just buy a ignition module ($20) and lock and tumbler ($70). Could I could make the swap? Also I start the van with a screw driver jammed into the keyhole; the key had broken and is still lodged.

What is the ignition part they wish to replace for $385?

Did the garage give you the diagnostic codes stored in the vehicles computer (whenever the check engine light turns on a code is stored)? It would be very helpful to have the actual trouble codes.

1995 Ford Aerostar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

starting about two weeks ago the interior lights remain on unless the fuse is pulled. we previously had the door ajar light on also, however, after removing the interior lamp relay in the fuse box, the door ajar light shut off. we cannot find the "switch" on any of the doors that would indicate when the doors are shut. can you A)tell us where to find the "switches" and B)give us an indication what might be causing the lights to remain on? thanks in advance for your help.

Hello, The door adjar switch and the dome light switch for each door is part of the door's latch. Your switch has likely broken in the on position.

On the model you have the switch can be serviced seperately from the latch. It may be necessary to remove the door latch assembly for access and after replacing the switch you may reuse the latch assembly.

The courtesy light switch should be about $25 retail at Ford Parts.

Roger

Hello? Did you get my message?

Thanks,

Roger

1994 Ford Aerostar Ignition System Won't Start When starting When warm 

it starts when its cold/or/ hot but not in between tempems its not the fuel flow regulater i think it must be crack in disture cap or wires?

Possiblity of a crack in the Dist cap. This is an inexpensive item to replace. Ensure you also change the rotor. Let me know if this helps and we can go from there. Al

1994 Ford Aerostar Engine Leaking When stopped Always

I have a 3.0 engine. It is leaking coolant at rear between motor and trans. I can't locate where it is coming from. Is there a freeze plug between yhese two?

IS this an external or internal leak, meaning does coolant leak out between engine and transmission at the bottom inspection plate OR is the coolant showing up externally near the top of the trans and engine?

Be sure to take a good look at any transport lines that go from the engine to the heater core (firewall).

Its leaking from bottom of trans at inspection plate. I don't see any leaks at the top of motor.

I believe you initial diagnosis is most likely correct, a leaking freeze plug.

Is this something you'll attempt to fix yourself? If yes, there are free online repair guides for your vehicle. If you would like the link let me know.

I would like to try and fix it myself. I would like the link for the free repair guide. Thank You.

Copy and Paste the following link into your address bar-


http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

If you can't get the link to work, leave your email address and I'll send a direct link.

1994 Ford Aerostar Engine   

I HAVE A 1994 FORD AEROSTAR VAN WITH THE 3.0 LITER ENGINE. THE TRANSMISSION IS AN AUTOMATIC WITH OVERDRIVE. I HAVE A STARTING PROBLEM WHEN THE ENGINE GETS HOT. I HAVE CHANGED THE MAP SENSOR, THE AIR TEMP. SENSOR, THE COMPUTER, THE IGNITION WIRES, THE ROTOR BUTTON, THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP, THE FUEL FILTER, THE SPARK PLUGS. I HAVE HAD THE FUEL REGULATOR CHECKED, THE INJECTORS CHECKED, FRESH FUEL IN THE TANK, (THE VAN DID SIT UP ABOUT A YEAR AND A HALF. IT WAS CRANKED ONLY EVERY NOW AND THEN). I HAVE ALSO CHANGED THE AIR FILTER. WHEN THE VAN IS COLD IT WILL EASILY START AND RUN ALL DAY IF YOU DON'T CUT IT OFF. WHEN IT GETS HOT AND YOU CUT OFF THE ENGINE, IT IS VERY HARD TO GET IT STARTED AGAIN. WHEN IT DOES START IT BLOWS OUT A LOT OF GAS AS IF IT IS FLOODED. I DON'T THINK INJECTORS GET FLOODED. AND IT ALSO STUMBLES IF YOU PUNCH THE GAS PEDAL. I HAVE ALSO CHANGED THE ENGINE COOLANT TEMP. SENSOR. I HAVE ALSO HAD THE THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR TESTED. WHAT DO I DO NOW. HELP. JWW

There is a small sensor, down low on the block called the crank position sensor.
When good it will start hot or cold, when going bad, it will start good cold and bad start when engine hot. When really, bad it starts less often. When crank position sensor quits, you get no start hot or cold. Sound familiar? The sensor, is about the size of your little finger.

sorry to say that i went by the ford dealership and they told me that the 1994 3.0 liter aerostar engine does not have a crank position sensor nor does it have a cam position sensor. they came with the 95 models. i cranked the vehicle up today and it rand for about 5 minutes. i then cut it off and it would not start unless i held the acelerator to the floor. i did backfire a couple of times before it finally started. any other ideas. jww

My mistake for not noticing the year. The job of the crank position sensor was put into the distributor for a couple of years. You might want to check the EGR valve to see if sticking open, and the MAP (manifold air press) sensor. If you can check for codes.

the egr valve is good. i have changed the map sensor. that did not make any difference. another for guy told me to check the coolant temp sensor. i had that checked and the guy told me it registered at 500 degrees even when only warm. i am changing that tomorrow. any other ideas if that does not work?

Temp sensor should read alot less, not sure what this reading will tell computer.There are usually 3 temp sensors, one for comp, one for guage and another for the rad fan.

found the problem. it was the coil all the time. i did not realize that this model had an actual ignition coil. when coils are bad, they are no good when hot. simple as that. jww

1994 Ford Aerostar Ignition System   

Hello,
I have a ford aerostar with the 4.0 engine and AWD. The van seems to be laboring or struggling to turn over. It cranks very slow and because of this sometimes does not want to start when it cranks to long. Once I try to turn it over once or twice it will crank faster and start right up. It seems intermittant and hot/cold does not affect it.

I changed the solenoid, positive battery cable and starter cable (they were corroded)and battery clamps, and the battery-NO LUCK. The negative cable looks fine. I also had one of the local stores do a battery test and starter test. The battery passed and they said the starter passed but it had a little bit more current draw than they would have liked to see. When I crank the car, the volt meter in the dash drops down really low. COULD THE STARTER BE FAULTY? Thank you for any help you can provide, Mike.

Hello, Do you know how many amps the starter required during the starter draw test? I'd be looking for around 175 amps.

If the battery is the correct capacity size for the vehicle, has a good state of charge, connections and cable condition are good....I think you've fully addressed all of these....that leaves:

Starter draw above limits

Engine oil wrong viscosity

Any belt driven accessory may be wearing out and require extra effort to turn

Any of the above can result in the engine cranking slowly in the first few seconds.

Yes, the starter may be faulty. Test results exceed expected limits. I'd change it.

Roger

1994 Ford Aerostar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Dome lites wont snut off--and open door is on dash. I tested 2 door and side door switch--seem to be good. I do not know how back tailgate switch is...I think that may be my problem.

Lubricate all the door latches with a spray lubricant (WD40, LPS etc) and open and shut doors several times to work in. There are sensors on the latches that somtimes become gummed up by dirt and debree. If this dosent help, rear hatch my need alignment.

1994 Ford Aerostar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

My Aerostar starting (mostly when turning left)setting off the door open alarm and tachometer spikes at the same time. I have a digital dash. It does it very rarely but at times very often on long trips and never when I took it to the dealer twice who couldn't figure out what it is. It is very annoying and loud and does it at times while pulling a light utility trailer. It seems when you put the brake on it stops, then starts again. Both the door open chime and tach are affected. We can't figure it out and it is driving us nuts. I am the original van owner and it is in excellent shape other than this issue. It makes us not want to drive it on trips because of this. Help!!!

I'm going to take that the "noise" is that of only the door chime as you don't clarify if there is another. This is a shot in the dark trying to diagnosis on this side of the screen. When it does this, do any of the doors light on the door ajar information panel? The sliding side door has contacts on the door and lock pillar. Open the door and you will see a black oblong piece with three round heads on both the door and pillar. These are electrical contacts for the door. Inspect the heads for abnormal wear.(they shoud be slightly rounded)In they are flattened or dirty, you may be getting intermitent contact causing the chime to sound. Applying the brakes causes forward pressure on the door and contacts. Proper door adjusment may solve the problem. There are several adjusting points on this door and to achieve correct alignment takes a great deal of care. If you think this may be your problem, you may want to take it to a reputable body shop and have them check the alignment of the door. If it is what I have seen with these vehicles, you may need some parts if alignment is needed, namely the lower roller and rear striker. About $60 parts, labor in my area around $80-$100. If you want to try on your own, write back and I'll try and walk you thru. Ford has had a problem with these doors from day one. The first ones to hit the road had a recall on the door. They did upgrade the design as the years went by but I feel they never really got it before they discontinued the model. In the 14 years I worked for a Ford dealership, 8 out of 10 times an Aerostar came in with a warranty concern, it was with the side door.

1994 Ford Aerostar Drive Train / Driveline   

About to replace the modulator diaphragm valve assembly on the tranny.....ATF getting into engine through this part. Was researching the how to's of this and came across a couple of "don't replace..just keep adding ATF, otherwise you'll have nothing but problems and a new transmission...not meant to change out this part". What are your thoughts on this repair/replacement? Vehicle specs:
1994 Ford Aerostar AWD 154000 miles, runs like a dream other than the 1x/mth adding of ATF and pinging as a result of the ATF in the engine. Thanks Alot, STEVE brnltjo@embarqmail.com

I am not sure what information they are going on. Perhaps in their experience the valve was changed after damage was done to the transmission.

Pinging can cause engine damage, this issue needs attention. Which engine do you have?

Thats what I was thinkin'. Any ideas on how to access the repair w/o dropping the entire exhaust system? The engine is a 4.0L V6, 3spd w/OD, AWD. Everyone has said to be careful of a small pin and notto damage or lose it, when i pull the old modulator will the pin come w/it or does it stay in the tranny opening?
Thanks,steve

1994 Ford Aerostar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

In the steering column there is a wire that hooks the horn,cruise control together were is this wire and what color is it also due you have a picture of it so i can follow it???

Yes I have the information if you have an email address for me to send it to.
I will need to know what engine you have is it the 4.0

no it is the 3.0L

Is this question duplicated?

Roger

ROGER i never got a answer to this question by the way my name is BIG JOHN and that is also a tilt wheel and 3.0L on that 94 aerostar

Big John,

Write to have this duplication of your question refunded.

Roger

1994 Ford Aerostar All Part Groups   

show diagram of column clock spring for 1994 ford aerostar 3.0L

Hello, I will email a wiring diagram for the clock spring to you. What is your email address please?

Roger

[redacted]

I have emailed the wiring diagram to you. If you do not see my email check your junk/spam mail.

I have written to All-Parts.com and asked that he refund your two duplicate entries for this question.

Roger

ROGER thank you very much for all the help and letting them know i was over charged very good tech BIG JOHN

Did we get you all the help you needed? If you are ready to close the question please click on OK to finish up.

Still need help? Just ask,

Best regards,

Roger

1994 Ford Aerostar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

i have been waiting for a answer for 2 days whats going on? do i have to pay for this? it was about a picture of a steeri ng wheel to get to the column clock spring for a 1994ford aerostar 3.0L tilt wheel

Big John,

Write to have this duplication of your question refunded.

Roger

1994 Ford Aerostar Ignition System   

I HAVE A 1994 Ford Aerostar the ignition switch is messed up . I just bought the van and it looks like a drill was run into the bottom left corner and I can't get the switch out. Help.

Hi, What is your email address please? I'll send you a file with "how to" steps and a pic.

Roger

My Email is [redacted] . Thank you for your help I bought the van for my daughter and she needs it and I'm stuck. thanks again. Les Honse

I'll send you what I found. Tell me if this is what you need.

Please remember to check your spam/junk mail folders if you do not see my email in your in box.

Roger

1993 Ford Aerostar Fuel System Lagging Happens sometimes Always

We have changed the air cleaner and we have cleaned the air intake,and added cleaner in the gas tank. whats next?

Have you ever changed the Fuel Filter? If not try that, the only other thing that I can think of is a clogged catalytic convertor. Cheers!!!

1993 Ford Aerostar Ignition System Won't Start  When cold

My van will start right off when it is anywhere from about 40 degrees and up. But anywhere below that the engine won't even turn over. I can hear the fuel pump kick in to start, and everthing else seems to be in order. I have taken it to a trusted friend and certified mechanic and he could not find the problem. We have run as many compter tests and scans that we can think of, but there seems to be no cause. Is this a common problem? Is it a mechanical problem or electrical? And what is it?

5-18-03.

Hello, I'll try to help! Please state which engine you have, the cold cranking amp rating of your battery, and the age of the battery cables and the starter.

Do you know the starter amp draw when the condition is present? Will the starter kick-in if one holds the key in the start position while another 'thumps' the side of the starter lightly with a hammer?

Your turn,

Roger

Hello, I'm looking forward to helping you. Please let me hear from you soon.

Thanks,

Roger

The starter is was just installed. It was rebuilt from another 93 Aerostar. The battery is brand new and the cables are the originals. We have previously tried changing out the main computer and other relays to try to eliminate them from the equation but we have had no luck in doing this.

I will try what you have suggested for tapping the starter with a hammer. I currently don't have the van here. It is in another town where my father lives. I'll would be more than happy to try your suggestion this weekend, but I don't think the weather will be getting down to 40 degrees or less anytime soon. So for the moment all is well. Thank you for your help. And I will hope to keep you posted with any new news, as I hope you will keep in touch with any suggestions.

Thanks again,
-Tim

1993 Ford Aerostar Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When shifting When cold

This is a Ford Aerostar 4.0 with all wheel drive automatic trans with 240,000 miles. A rebuilt tranny put in within 25,000 - 30,000. Fluid is full and pink with no odors. We put in some tranny medic which help a little.
When driving, cold mostly, the trans just began to malfunction. First appeared at about 50MPH slight shutter at times. Now, it will shift okay from 1st to 2nd, then, when going to 3rd, the engine will race but tranny not shift into gear. You can shift to 1st or 2nd which will downshift and go in that gear only.
When hot the problem is very intermitent and mostly no problem at all. Would the vacuum module be a possibility? Internal/tranny electrical? Any help is appeciated. Thanks!

YOU HAVE A FORD WITH 240,00 MILES. ANY MONEY YOU SPEND WOULD BE A WASTE. ITS GOING TO BE ONE THING AFTER ANOTHER. TIME FOR A NEW RIG~

You are going to spend a lot of money fixing this transmission. The center carrier assy on the Ford A4LD's is weak. You have two options. Have a reputable transmission shop replace or rebuild this transmission, or replace the vehicle. I am a Ford person, but I don't think I would put the money into this. A lot of money, for not so long of life of a 240,000 mile engine.

1993 Ford Aerostar Fuel System  Happens always Always

My 93 Aerostar 4.0, was getting 18 mpg. While driving up hill with a load of passengers I heard a loud pop and lost power. The dealer checked the exhaust system and $600.00 of other tests but found nothing wrong. however now I only get 13mpg. I do have power now. I checked spark plugs, wires. fuel pump, ect., no luck. any ideas? Thank you. glenn gwantz@pacbell.net

Do you have the same power you had before...?
It's tough to guess what the dealer may have overlooked. Any black smoke from the exhaust under any driving conditions?
Start by checking the fuel pressure regulator. Pull the vacuum line off to the regulator and see if fuel is entering coming through. If it does the regulator is at fault.

I will look into the regulator when I have time.
Thank you for your responce. I will release payment even though I dont know if it will work.
Thanks again
Glenn

1993 Ford Aerostar Ignition System Stalling When driving When warm 

All electrical power shuts off when driving down the road. After waiting for 30 seconds or more electrical power comes on and you can restart the engine. Go about a mile or so and it repeats the same. Ignition module has been changed.

Have the ignition switch (not to be confused with the key switch) checked. Never overlook battery connections and engine grounds in this situation.

1993 Ford Aerostar Engine Malfunction When starting 

After sitting for three days my vehical wouldn't start, loud poping sound which sounded like the silonoid?, I just replaced the starter twice,first time silonoid was not replaced second time both.

Since I moved to atlanta Three months ago I've put 3350 miles on this van since it's tune up; forgot to turn of the lights four times with it sitting fordays at a time...to the point that there was complete silence had it jumped each time. oil light gas come on twice I've had the oil change and added oil stabilizer.(Although the battery's Seven months old, could it now be discharged from the excessive deadening of the battery?)

Vehicle not starting Continued:

{I tried starting the van from the silonoid noticing a very slowe turne,re hook silonoid wen't back to attempt a start from ignition,sat on it for about 2 min and it begun to slowly turn/ Bam running like new,power fine, {did notice a leak from the filter so I had the oil changed; which was do in three days, and all fluids checked.

Next day morning,I started the van, let it run for few and cut off then started again no proublem. Five oclock that evening I tried starting it again,like befor, battery and oil light on, though this time there was a soft start, also notice water spot below tail pipe. {To top it off} there has been an oil leak from the center of th oil pan not very small but anuff to leave a spot. Could this be a gasket or>>>>? Should I start saving my allowance, just joking but real....help please

It is hard on a battery to run it completely dead (as when you left the headlights on). The extent of the damage is unpredictable as it will vary from battery to battery.

I don't understand what you mean by a soft start?

Did it spin slow but start? Only spin a little bit but suprisingly started right up? ETC?

What problem are you seeing most often (other than leaving your headlights on ;)
-The vehicle won't start after it's been sitting for several hours and is even less likely to start after sitting for several days? It acts like a dead or weak battery... and this problem never appears after driving somewhere- IE- drive 15 minutes to gas station and fill the tank. Does it start fine everytime in this scenario?

1993 Ford Aerostar Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always 

I had a short in my headlight switch and replaced both the switch and plug. All lights now work fine except my dash lights now stay on all the time (even with key off). I pulled it apart checked wire colors, to old plug and all was right. Then put the old light switch onto new plug same problem. Dash lights dim okay and all other functions are good. Is there a fried fuse link or something else that could be the issue?

there might be a short in the wire, or it is touching another wire so it isnt turning off. also retape the spots that you missed, then check the plugs for dirt and crossed wires.

It is a new plug and the wire harness is clean looking from what I can see into the dash. It does not look to be pinched or rubbing. I have already checked all new connections where I replaced the plug (I used an after marked (NAPA) plug that you just clip off the old 9 wires and use a crimp connect). The short was between the plug and the switch on the tail lights.

it has to be the switch that turns on the dash. Something isn't connected or shorted out, because if it was connected it would turn off. So it's not making the connection to turn it off.

I get the same results on both the new and old switch. After taking both switches out of the van. I put a continuity tester on the terminal that connects to the rheostat of the dimmer and I found the hot coming into the rheostat. Then when I turn the switch “off” the light of the continuity tester is on on both switches. So, I figure it must turn off from another point in the switch? Both the new and the old switch seem to act the same. Is one of the other wires to the ignition? Is there a fuse link in there?

How about with the switch unplugged or out of the car/ Are the dash lights on then?

No, the lights are off when I disconnect the switch. The two things that are killing me is 1.) the lights are dim-able, so it would seem that it is not a short directly on the dash light wire. 2.) On both switches (new and old), there remains continuity on the dash lights. In other words, outside of the car, when I turn the switch “off”, the light of the continuity tester is on on both switches and are dim-able. How does the dash lights turn off if it is not directly the switch?

The power comes directly from the headlamp switch on the Lt Blue with red wire. It then passes through a fuse before going directly to the bulbs so the dimmer has to be built into the headlamp switch. By it not working when unplugged, you have proven it's getting it's power from the headlamp switch. Either the switch is bad or that harness is shorted to something else being powered when the light switch is plugged in. See which other wires on that plug get powered when the switch is plugged in and then check for a short between them

With the switch in the OFF position I have power to:

Green W/ yellow stripe [D1] (dome light, power in to the switch?), ---

Black with orange stripe [B1] (head lights, power into the switch?) ---

Tan w/no stripe [R] (park/tail lights, door chime and dash lights power in to switch?) ---

Does this look correct? If I disconnect the Tan w/no stripe [R], the dash lights go out, but so do the tail lights which seems right. It’s killing me that the old switch acts the same as the new one and there was no problem before with the dash lights.

After taking another look at the switch, I can see that the Tan w/no stripe [R] has a brass terminal that goes directly to the rheostat and then directly to the Light blue w/red stripe [ I ]. So it seem that it if Tan w/no stripe [R] always has power then Light blue w/red stripe [ I ] will also always have power. So how is it switched?

Are you sure that tan wire doesn''t have a white stripe. It should for the power in on B2. The park lights out should be brown. How about the LtBlu/R? Is that powered coming out if you snip the wire?

BINGO!
The “after market plug” had a TAN for what should have been BROWN and BROWN w/ white stripe for what should have been TAN w/ white stripe. To make matters worse the original BROWN had rubbed against a white the stripe of the TAN so they both had a partial white stripe. Thanks for sticking with it!

Did you find the problem?

The “after market plug” had a TAN for what should have been BROWN and BROWN w/ white stripe for what should have been TAN w/ white stripe. To make matters worse the original BROWN had rubbed against a white the stripe of the TAN so they both had a partial white stripe. Thanks for sticking with it!"

OK, remember to accept the answer.

1993 Ford Aerostar Electrical / Lighting Systems  Happens always Always

The horn does not work. Can you tell me where the horn is so I can get it to work? Do I have to change a fuse or replace the horn? Can you help me? Thank you.

Fuse #12 which should be a 30 amp fuse is listed as the horn fuse. Check this first and get back to me.

There is a high pitch and low pitch horn, located near the lower radiator support. They both should have a dark/blue wire going to them. Unlikely they would both fail at the same time, although it is possible one failed some time ago and you never noticed it missing- but with both defective you'd notice. Still unlikely, check the fuse and let me know.

1993 Ford Aerostar Engine Overheating When driving Always

van has 175k miles engine starts up no problem i replaced antifreeze incl flushing system 2 months ago. after that first start up there was a lot of white smoke coming out of the tailpipe. Also i should be noted that i had replace muffler tailpipe and flex pipe a year earlier and now there is a hole rusted through in the pipe right before the muffler. now when started car runs at normal temp but after 6 or 7 minutes temp gauge goes to red line but not past it.
van does not accelerate as before . has 1771751`11currently 175

One thing white smoke can indicate is fluid is entering the exhaust system.One of these ways is a bad head gasket.This can also contribute to the poor acceleration and heating problem.Check the fluid level and also check the engine oil.If the oil looks like chocolate milk,this is most likely the problem.You may also want to have a pressure check of the cooling system done to confirm.As far as the muffler and pipes,I'm not sure what part of the country you live in but the factory pipes are usually stainless steel,thus giving then a longer life span.If they were replaced with a mild steel pipe and you are in area where there is snow and ice,longevity won't be as great.
Good Luck,
Paul

i had changed the oil the same day as the coolant oil was the usual dark black color not milky brown. i was about to remove thermostat today but decided to give vthius site a try first. so i should have a pressure check done.ok because someone told me that the engine was probably shot and i should replace it. i just put 2 grand into fixin the front end and would like to keep this awd aerostar is this a common problem with the 4.0 engine ? this is my 3rd aerostar but i never had one with this many miles b4

Wow,2k on the front end?Sounds like you replaced every nut,bolt and moveable part there or you got took.No I have not heard of any common complaints on this paticular engine but I'll ask some buds down at the dealership I used to work for if they have.
Good Luck,
Paul

it started with a replacement of drive shafts then they told me i needed a lower control arms , shocks springs done then there was a crack in the front differential housing, tune up of engine , transmission tune up replaced tranny fluid and pan gasket

Have the vehicle scanned for codes.A MAF or O2 sensor may fall into play here.Check with one of your local parts houses(AutoZone,Auto Nation etc.)Some of these places offer this service for free or at a nominal charge.If any codes are retrieved,follow the suggested flow chart for said code"all the way".You may find that the engine may not be the case.Drive shafts are understandable.Control arms,if the bushings and ball joints are replaceable, on some they are, but cost factor of doing so as to replacement may have been a factor.As for the differential,I don't know how you managed to crack that and not notice a drip or two unless it was completely dry to which you would have gotten a grinding sound.I understand you want to keep the vehicle but you really should have it scanned before making a desision on an engine swap.You've got 2k invested on a $4500 vehicle.If in fact it is the engine,be be prepaired for another $3000+.
Good Luck,
Paul

yes there was a knocking noise before the half shafts were changed....i just took van over to a shop by my job and the guy just told me the themostat was no good but he said i also needed a radiator! and that one cost $350 dollars.. i just say them on ebay for 50 bucks...

Yes I would look into an aftermarket radiator.If the one you saw on EBay was new,thats a steal.If it is used,you may be buypng another can of worms.I myself am an EBayer and have gotten some good quaulity used items off it but in this case,I would most likely lean toward nothing but new.Don't know what part of the country your'e in but where I'm at(So.Ca.)I can get a custom built 4core radiator built for less than the $350 installed.Its' supposed to be 118 degrees here today and cooling is a major factor for us.Both the radiator and thermosstat are easy changeouts.If you do this yourself,make sure you note the way the top of the thermostat top is positioned.I've seen a time or two where people have inverted them to cause not only themselves but myself more head scratching trying to determine the heating problem.
Good Luck,
Paul

1993 Ford Aerostar Ignition System   

1993 4.0 AWD, recent problems with running poorly then not at all. Gas in the crankcase, upper intake manifold full of liquid gas. Turned out to be a diaphragm leak in the fuel pressure regulator. The vacuum line (reference line to intake manifold) sucked gas from the leaky regulator into the intake manifold. This then overflowed down the rear two cylinders (physically they sit lower due to engine tilt). This was proven by those two spark plugs were squeaky clean while the other 4 were badly sooted up. While I was working on the engine I went ahead and replaced the plugs, plug wires, PCV valve, had the injectors tested and cleaned (initially I thought a leaky injector was my problem-not so). All the injectors were fine and flowed the same. New O-rings. New intake and throttle body gaskets. All back together and now it won't start. Have spark (weak???). Pulled off the intake air hose and while engine cranks I have a backfire in the upper intake manifold. Could cleaning of the throttle body assembly have caused this? The backfire is visible through the small hole in the butterfly valve plate. Help.

Cleaning the throttle body should not cause the backfire. Check engine compression for bad intake valve, check your firing order. Weak spark can make a no-start, but should not make a backfire in the intake.

Hope this helps.

You were correct, I used a 1[redacted] Chilton's to find the firing order for the 4.0. It apparently changed somewhere before 1993 because that was the problem. I moved the wires on the DIS Coil pack and it would then start and run, however poorly. Ran a diagnostic and ended up with codes 998 (failure mode) and 211 PIP circuit fail. All in all, you answered my original question, and notice I took the easy route first. Compression checks on an Aerostar would be a nightmare. Thank you.

I would have done the same!
Sounds like you may have a bad module now.

1993 Ford Aerostar Fuel System   

Engine chocks or gags; it runs haltingling, but only when accelerating between ~45-65 mph. funny thing is that the engine only kicks back when accelerating at kind of middle peddle depression, let up or floor it and it calms down, or runs through the haltingness. I have changed the fuel filter, had the drive train replaced, and cleaned the fuel with fuel injection cleaners about 5 times. So far to no avail. suggestions?

Have you checked the TPS (throttle position sensor), this is a common failure for your vehicle.

1993 Ford Aerostar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

When I start the engine, after 10 second, the engine light flash 3 times always and then the engine goes on high RPM and then fall to a low and irregular RPM ( up and down )

Does the check engine light stay on after if flashes? If it does you will need to check the trouble codes, let me know if you need instructions.

There are two common causes for the problem, one is the TPS (throttle position sensor) and the idle speed motor (also called the idle air bypass valve). You can remove the idle speed motor and clean its pintle and port back into the throttle body. Also clean the throttle blade, both sides, with a brush and spray throttle body cleaner. This is good maintenance either way.

Also make sure the battery terminals, cables, grouns, etc are good.

Hello, to answer your question about the engine light stays on, NO, the light flash tree times and stop but after 2 minutes or so , the light flash another 3 times and the engine that was very low on RPM after the first series of flashes, crank up again and then goes down and become very shaky. The first time that the engine did that was in february. It was raining and the melting snow plus the uge amount of rain had created rivers on the street and I had to pass thru
that pool of water but I did not had any problems with the van that day but the day after it was very cold and everything had frosen.It was the first time the check engine light flashed and this problem begin.
The mechanic who checked it with the computer did not find any error code at first then it was full of error code then no error code then he receive a connection error but was never able to find the cause of it.
Thank you for your time.

Jocelyn Villeneuve

When you get multiple error codes this is usually a sign of trouble with the vehicles computer. When you went through high water this may have also caused trouble with the wiring to the computer.

Sensors and ignition connections need to be removed and checked for wetness, corrosion, etc. The same goes for the rest of the wiring, starting at the battery and including grounds. The computer may have been damaged, but don't overlook a wiring problem.

Hello and thank you again.
If I take the problem backward, what sensor should I unplug in a problem free engine to get to the same result : check engine flashes 3 times / engine goes up/ then down and stall. When I unplug the TPS the engine start OK and it goes like if there were no problem for about 2 or 3 minutes but since the sensor is unplug, the engine slowly and smoothly goes to a stop. Before checking all the wiring Should I try to replace the TPS sensor or can I clean it? Does this trouble related in a way to this sensor? I have Haynes autorepair book but when it comes to sensor and emission control, they are very basic and don't go into details.

Thank you

Unplugging a sensor will not work the way you mentioned. It only duplicates an open circuit, and not a short, out of range, etc condition.

1993 Ford Aerostar Fuel System   

My Aerostar has lost all power, hesitates like no tommorow. I checked the fuel pressure (35psi at idle, 30-40psi running). I need to know if those are readings are OK, and what to check next. Thanks, Ben

Ben
Yes the fuel pressure is ok. First see if check engine light is on.
It would be nice to check to see if there are diagnostic codes.Some auto parts stores do this service for free.
That would pinpoint
if there are concerns with a sensor or something similar.Sensors are simple to change and usually reasonably priced,.
I use an infrared type temperature tester to see if the catalyctic converter is plugged or partially plugged.
I would also be concerned about water in the gasoline , as it is common this time of year.
Something as simple as a plugged air filter can cause hesitation.

No check engine light, I was wondering about the cat, I can unbolt the exhaust and see what happens with that. I would go with water in the gas except I have already tried draining the tank and putting treatment in the tank.
Should I unbolt the cat and take it for a drive to see?

Sometimes you can remove the cat and test. The cat might be visibly plugged and if the Aerostar has the high mileage/origional Cat combo, it might be something to consider.

What should the temp of the cat be at normal? And if plugged? I'll go get an infrared thermometer today and check that.

Cat converter temp can be 1[redacted] F. If up around 2000 that would be bad. Also bad would be an inlet/outlet temp difference of 200 degrees or more.

OK, I removed them, and put flex pipe in too see, It seems better but not like it used to be. Now it shows more sighn of popping and almost gasping. Could it be an intake maifold gasket? And could that be checked like the old school vaccum test with carb claen around the intake?

Yes that method works, as well as using an (unlit) propane torch. Either will cause a slight increase in RPM if ther is a vacuum leak. Tightening the trottle body and/or intake screws does not hurt either.
I am suprised there would be no additional 'codes' set.
0

I will try that this evening, what else should I look at?

That year, being 15 years old, I would look at the hoses as they dry out.
Also check the egr for blockage and correct functioning.They smetimes get carbon buildup and stick open at lower rpm.

I may have discovered the problem, wno't know until tomorrow since it's raining and I don't want to get wet. But, the Vaccum "Manifold" on the top back of the engine where there are 4-5 lines coming in, all of the lines a swelled up from oil contamination, so I am going to try tightening them with zip ties, if that solves it then I will replace the lines. Also, where is the pcv valve located, it is hard to see in the engine compartment, so I am playing fell for things.

Thanks Again.

Might work as a test.
The PCV valve is usually located on the rocker cover at the end of the vent hose, above the #6 cylinder.
A good test, when its raining, in the dark, have an assistant, watch the plug wires with the engind revved up a bit, brake on and transmission in drive.
This will put the ignition under load and a bad plug wire will 'arc'

1993 Ford Aerostar Drive Train / Driveline   

After van has warmed up it feels as if it surges between 40-55 MPH, generally while going up hill or accelerating. If I floor the gas it stops. It only does it if starting in overdrive, but not if starting in drive.

Hello, I suggest a road test with a transmission repairman.

The speed range you talk about is where the torque converter clutch (TCC) goes into lock-up (applies). Sounds like it won't stay applied. Of course you will want to check the fluid level.

When the accelerator is floored the TCC is disengaged. When the shift lever is in Drive (not overdrive) 4th gear is locked out.

Roger

1993 Ford Aerostar All Part Groups   

Problem stops when idling: Replaced PCV and upper hose (~2")of PCV connects to a sensor with a "T" and the other side of the "T" there is a hose about 12" long that became disconnected and I can not see where it connects. Remember, there are two hoses from the PCV valve, the bigger (diameter wise) hose is connected to the air intake chanber. Please help identifying where that hose (with smaller diameter)goes.
Thank you, Hector.

First look under the hood at the front part of the frame just beyond the radiator cap to see if there is a copy of your diagram
the leads should be pointed out there

OR

If you have an email address that you can send me ?
I will send a copy of the hose connection diagram to you
I need to know
1.is it a california model
2.engine size
3 is it cabuerated, full body fuel injected or multi port fuel injected.

Very good! I found the schematic and it tells me that the hose I was looking for goes to the charcoal canister.
My email is [redacted]
I do not need the picture of the schematic under the hood but what I need now is to find the carbon canister.
Thank you, Hector

I forgot to tell you that the Van
Aerostar is a California model, the engine is a 3.0 six cylinders, the year is 1993. and the main problem is that the engine misses at idle speed.
Thank you again,
Hector.

It looks to be fastened to the inner fender on the passenger side hiding under the Heater blower motor and Air filter. I hope this helps.

1993 Ford Aerostar All Part Groups   

When I start my van up (cold) it starts and idles (fast) as normal and about 30 seconds when it begins to worm up, the idle will slow down and quit. It will start back up but I have to give it gas to keep it running. I have had this problem for 2 years.

Try to get it scanned for codes first.Many parts stores do that for free.Might be the CTS (coolant temperature sensor)It is intake manifold, by the thermostat and is about the size of your thumb.It tells the computer to richen the air/fuel mixture untill the engine warms up.If coolant level is low, it might not be reading the temp. correctly.
You might want to do a fuel pressure test, to see if the fuel pressure is bleeding down past dirty injectors (injector cleaner in gas tank helps!) or a faulty fuel pressure regulator.
Just a few ideas...assuming that it has regular tune ups too!

1993 Ford Aerostar Engine   

the van has trouble starting when engine is cold but runs fine when engine gets to operating temps. The down side is the fuel used when starting is excesive and a black smoke is bellowing out of the tail pipe. What Can I do do eleminate these problems. Any and all advise would be benificall.

Start by checking the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose for the presense of raw gasoline. If the vacuum shows signs (strong odor or wetness) you need a new regulator. Use caution as gasoline may be present in the hose (check with engine cold, negative battery cable disconnected). This is a fairly common problem on these that could be your problem.

There are other causes we'll check if the regulator is not the problem. The map/maf sensor (depending on engine) or temperature sensors will be next to check (coolant temp sensor and intake air temp sensors). A leaking or stuck on fuel injector(s) can also cause this. More on these later if necessary.

If the regulator is okay, let me know engine size and if the Check Engine light comes on while the engine is running.

This is a 4.0 fuel injected engine and yes the check engine light comes on when the vehicle starts. It switches off again when the van reaches operating temp.

Okay,

Check the fuel pressure regulator. If this check alright I'll give instructions for checking trouble codes.

1992 Ford Aerostar Fuel System Won't Start  Always

I cannot get my Aerostar to start. The engine turns over fine. I have a manual and it says to check the fuel pump relay. I cannot find it. Can someone tell me where it is located?

You have the relay located either on the fire wall drivers or passengers side. There is also a collision fuel pump cut out located behind the kickpanel on the passenger side. Normally white in color with either a black or red button. Make sure the button is pushed in. Let me know if this helps. Al

Hi Al,
Well I found what I suspect to be the relay on the driver's side ajacent to the starter relay. There was three of them with no indication which was the right one. I changed all three and it still will not start. I checked the other switch under the kick panel and it did need to be reset. I think I'll have it TOWED to the dealers in the am and pay a hefty fee for the work. Thank you for all of your help and if I need any other help, I'll be sure to get in contact with you! Have a great holiday season.

Quentin

1992 Ford Aerostar Fuel System  When starting When cold

Idle osilates during cold start only. Must keep foot on gas until warm. What is the diagnostic procedure and what sensors are used for cold start only for combustion control/emissions.

Does the check engine light come on when the engine is running?

Have you tried removing the idle control valve and cleaning the valve and it's passageway.

The engine light does not come on, but is working. The idle control valve was open and fairly clean and the ports were open in the manifold. I checked this first.

Try unplugging the TPS (throttle position sensor) when cold. Start engine but don't touch the gas, is problem better?

If the engine computer is not being told the proper temperature from the coolant or intake temp sensors it will not get the rich fuel mix needed to run a cold engine. Test the sensors and let me know. THere are free instructions available online if you don't have a repair manual. Let me know.

can you send the link for the free instruction on temperature sensor testing? thanks.

Cut and paste the following link into your address bar.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/14/aa/2[redacted] aa20.jsp

Let me know if the link works for you, if it does not I can send you a direct link if you leave your email address. Also notice the repair guide covers a wide range of years and there will be some repair information that does not apply to your '92.

no problem with the link, thanks. unplugging the TPS had no affect. temp. switch is ok. bypass air valve has 12 volts warm instead of 1 volt. is it 1 volt cold, or does it matter. still had 12 volts at normal temp. plugging it in did not change the idle speed. applying 12 volts fried my small wire jumper. no idle change. does this valve modulate, or just full open & closed? seems as though the voltage is incorrect or the valve is bad, or both. what do you think?
thanks.

With the air valve unplugged do you still have the idle problem?

When vehicle is warm does the idle change if you turn on the A/C or turn the steering wheel- what we are looking for is the idle speed to raise slightly to support the extra load.

The valve moves in an attempt to constantly maintain desirable idle speed.

1992 Ford Aerostar Ignition System Malfunction When accelerating When warm 

1992 aerostar, 3.0 engine....have replaced coil and plug wires recently...replaced plugs, cap and rotor about 20,000 miles ago..also replaced what they call a "spout".....engine will miss under load and after it warms up....miss wasn't as bad after replacing plug wires....

Hello, A missfire under a load is often a plug wire.

However, carefully remove the plug wire from each spark plug and remove the spark plug to inspect for varbon tracking down the side of the porcelin. See any carbon lines forming? That would be a short. Replace any such spark plug and inspect the wire boot for a pin hole.

Try running the engine in the dark of night with the hood up to look for spark jumping from a wire to the engine.

Are you satisfied with the quality of the plug wire set that was installed?

Your thoughts?,

Roger

the wires were bosch and just put on as that was the problem 20,000 miles ago....i do all of my own work....and i know about looking for sparks at night, i even spray water on wires to see if they leak..didn't see any flashes....no, didn't pull plugs as i was trying to avoid that as they only have 20,000 miles on 'em....vans are a bitch to work on...the fact that it begins missing after it warms up made me think it was the coil as i have 230,000 miles on the van, it wasn't the coil...i run a 180 thermostat so that isn't that hot.....if you have no other ideas, i guess that means the plugs

Carbon tracking could be the problem....

When at idle can you isolate the miss by disconnecting one spark plug wire at a time to see how much change is effected?

Any chance of running your engine on a scope?

Have you thought of OHM checking each plug wire?

Roger

no, didn't ohm check as the wires are brand new....just thought i'd try this forum in case i missed something....i'll have to bite the bullet and go after the plugs...then the cap and rotor....i'm just frustrated because i just did this 20,000 miles ago and it's a pain in the !ss....

I'm looking at troubleshooting the problem but I don't see a way to cheat here.

I don't think it is something you missed but rather the possibility of having bought a defective part.

Roger

How are you doing here?

Thanks,

Roger

found the problem......typical ...i didn't check the simple and ASSumed that the plug wires were connected as i had put them on.....sure enough, the #5 wire was off just enough to create too much resistance when everything heated up....thanks for your help

I'm glad you have the trouble fixed.

To accept my answer and allow me to be paid please click on the OK TO PAY THE MECHANIC button.

Thank you for the chance to assist,

Roger

1992 Ford Aerostar Drive Train / Driveline   

The transmission looses a quart of oil every two weeks or less. At the same time the engine oil level increases to the point where I have to drain a quart or so.There are no obivious leaks on my driveway, somehow the trans oil is getting into the engine. The van has a 3L 4speed auto and about 160000 mile so its not worth a major repair bill. How is this happening and is it something a backyard machanic can repair?

how long has this been happening.
have you seen anything leaking underneath? what is the exact model of your van?

very slowly about 2 years ago didn't realize what was happening then
92 aerostar xlt 2wd
no drips on driveway

Ok there is a main seal between the engine and the transmission also a transmission front seal to seperate the two fluid and prevent them from leaking out.
there is no way to determine which of your seals are busted and in need of repair .
The only way to have it checked would be to take it for a transmission tune up and oil chand=ge .
there you will be able to get it checked out free of charge and you will also know where to go from there.
this transmission issue is not something you will want to try as a backyard mechanic, you will need the proper test equiptment to presssurize the internal parts of the trans and engine in order to recreate the leak in a way that it can be detected and monitored.
I hope this helps

1992 Ford Aerostar Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

When I was shifting into reverse, the gear shift selector made a breaking noise and would no longer shift into Park/Neutral and when I tried to go forward or reverse, I could, but without clearly identifying where it was.It was not falling into a gear as such. It was as though it was loose, except for 2 and 1 gears. They still seemed tight and clear. Obviously, when I couldn't put the 1992 aerostar into park, I had to put the emergency brake on to keep the car from rolling. Now, of course, as expected, I can not remove the keys nor start the engine because it requires the van be in park to start.HELP HELPPlease help me to understand what's wrong

Sounds like the shifter linkage has come out of adjustment.With an assistant moving the column shifter, observe under the hood, at the bottom of the column, Determine if the linkage looks like its moving properly. If floor shift, the shifter operates with a cable under the van to the transmission.As a temp fix if you cannot adjust, try to disconnect shifter cable/linkage so shifter can be put into park and key removed. If you cannot do that, temporarily remove neg battery cable for the night.That will prevent someone from 'borrowing' the van and prevent electrical stuff from running down battery or damaging electronics.

Thank you ever so much? What parts do I need to replace?

I would not replace anything without first examining the linkage and cables. Probably requires cable

1991 Ford Aerostar Drive Train / Driveline Hesitating Happens sometimes 

When i put it into reverse it goes in fine but when i put it into drive it just sits there for a few second then when it does kick into gear it kinda clunks into gear.it doesnt hesitate after that it will shift just fine . Then when i take it out of gear then try to put it back in it does the same thing hesitates for a few second then it will kick in. i changed the filter on the tranny but still does the same i thought it was cuz it sat for awhile. I think it might be the modulator but i dont know but a reply would be greatly appreciated.

Hello, Well a modulator has to do with the upshifting of gears but not the engagement of DRIVE to begin driving.

I'll see if I can find a Technical Service Bulletin that address "Delayed Engagement". I do believe there may be a seal in the transmission that allows fluid to bypass pressure instead of seal it completely. The pump can overcome the condition within a few seconds of time and the vehicle goes into gear.

I believe you'll need to find a transmission technician that will road test with you and evaluate the condition for an estimate to repair. From there it will need to be decided if you choose to invest in this vehicle because you want to keep it.

I'll report back soon.

Roger

I do not find a Tech Bulletin that address delayed or harsh engagement of the Aerostar transmission in the data base.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

k send it to one of the your friends the answer must be out there. I would like to find an answer or atleast know if i have to buy a new tranny.

I'm surprised you didn't grasp what I was telling you.

I wrote:
I believe you'll need to find a transmission technician that will road test with you and evaluate the condition for an estimate to repair. From there it will need to be decided if you choose to invest in this vehicle because you want to keep it.
We can't suggest on line that it is something you can fix yourself unless you are skilled in transmission repair procedures. I doubt you need a new transmission. If you will seek the advice of a local transmission technician and show them what is happening you should be able to get a professional opinion and an estimate.

Feel free to release the question a second time if you need to hear from others.

Respectfully,

Roger

1991 Ford Aerostar Ignition System Won't Start  Always

my van will not start until the fuel pump clicks off. Each week it took longer to click off. At present the fuel pump will not stop and the van will not start. I can spray starter fluid in the intake and it will run untill the fluid is used up.

Hello, Have you tested the fuel pressure? What is it, please?

Will the fuel rail hold pressure or does it just leak down quickly?

You may be needing a fuel pump...

Roger

The fuel pressure was about 35 lb and did not drop while ignitions was on. I have replace the fuel pump (in the tank) adn the fuel pressure refulator valve. Each part I replaced seem to add to the time it took the for the fuel pump to cut off and allow the van to start.

Does the fuel pump run continually and the pressure remain around 35 PSI during cranking?

What engine please?

Roger

When the key is in the on position the fuel pressure on the injection rail today, was 40 psi. When the starter was engaged the pressure remained at 40 psi. The fuel pressure remains on the injector rail long after at starting attempt is made. When the van would start, it ran perfect. I would take trips of over 100 miles with no problem. I never checked to see if the pump ran continually after the van started. I just know that it will not start until the fuel pump quits.
I have noted that if I spray starter fluid into the intake it will start until the starter fluid is exhausted.

That all sounds like normal readings to me so I'm going to quit thinking about fuel pressure as a factor.

What size engine please?

Roger

The engine size is a 3.0 sorry to have left that off

I've got to do some checking around for bulletins, etc. to see where to go from here.

Thanks for the engine size info.

Roger

Wait a second, I'm overlooking the obvious here.

We have fuel pressure. We have spark because the engine runs until a spray of starter fluid is exhausted.

That leaves the fuel injectors are not firing. They are computer controlled. If you have a noid light you could confirm their being inop.

If a final check confirms that ALL fuses are good I'm thinking computer. Your thoughts?,

Roger

Is there a way to check the computer without buying another just to see what happens? The fuses are good.

A noid light can be plugged into any injector wiring connector. Just pick an injector that has easy access, unplug it and plug in the noid light.

With a noid light installed as described have someone crank the engine. Does the noid light flash off and on while the engine cranks? If so the engine is now running on five cylinders because it started up.

If the noid is not flashing the injector is not being commanded to fire by the computer. Are all fuses good? Yes? Suspect the computer. No? Replace the blown fuse and retest.

No there is no way to test the computer other than substitution.

A noid light is cheap at an auto parts store. I estimate less than $15.

Roger

All checks out well except the computer. Now for the silly question of the day. Is the computer located just below the radio under the dash? Is it about the same size as a computer hard drive in a desk top computer?

I don't understand your response "All checks out well except the computer."

Did you use a noid light and determine the injectors are not firing?

The Computer module is about the size of a cigar box and is silver in color. It will be located under the dash to the right of the steering column or next to the glove box. To access it remove the screws retaining the interior trim panel over the assembly.

Be certain the key is OFF when disconnecting or connecting the module. There may be a smaller module mounted piggy back. The smaller module is a controller for the emission maintenance warning light.

Roger

1991 Ford Aerostar Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always

Blower motor was replaced earlier this year. Just recently, no matter what setting, no air, hot or cold is blowing from the vents. You can hear the motor running, but not blowing. Vents are warm to the touch also.

If you get air from the defogger vents, then it is a distribution problem, usually a vacuum line. If no air from the defrost vents, look for a clogged air intake. I have also seen things like, fan came off the blower motor, blower motor running backwards, fan installed backwards. Any of these will cause very reduced air flow. Not a good thing this time of the year!

No air from defogger vents either. Vents are warm to the touch but no air.

Where is the air intake located?? I will check the blower motor fan blade. It has worked fine all year til the last few days

The air intake is through the grille by the windshield wipers.

1991 Ford Aerostar Fuel System   

My 1991 Aerostar won't start. We were driving on the highway and it suddenly quit. I suspected the coil, especially since the fuel pump does run when you turn on the key, and stops after a second or two.

However, I checked the plug wire using a screwdriver shorted against the body. Not only did it spark but I got a jolt myself.

Could there be a plugged gas filter? Even though I got a jolt off the coil, cold it be gone?

V6 ? 4 cyl? Remove dist cap, crank engine.Does Dist rotor turn? The spark was yellow or blue? (gloves and dry shoes help, and no other body contact with van will prevent you from getting an unplanned Afro! lol! Last tune up?Yes a filter could be plugged.There should be a small diagnostic port on the fuel line, close to the throttle body. It has a cap with a valve under it, similar to a tire valve. Its used to test fuel pressure. Lots of pressure at that point?

Never knew there are 4 cylinder Aerostars. It is a V6 4 lite. No dist.

1991 Ford Aerostar Heating / Cooling System   

my ford aerostar overheats when i drive and stop during the hot summer and boils the antifreeze which bubbles over and leaks out, and i smell as if electrical wires are burning too. But on the highway the overheating never happens

Sounds like the cooling fan behind the rad is not working.Slow speeds, fan is required.Higher speeds there is enough airflow through the rad that the fan is not required.

1991 Ford Aerostar Fuel System   

is there a fuse in the fuse box for the fuel pump?

There should be a fuse in the under hood fuse box.

Copy and Paste the following link into your address bar to access an online repair guide that contains fuse information and a wiring diagram of the fuel system.

http://autozone.com/newGuide,yes/shopping/repairGuide.htm

Let me know if you find what you are looking for.

1991 Ford Aerostar Fuel System   

What would couse the windows not to work?

Do all windows fail to work?

Start by checking fuses.

1991 Ford Aerostar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

The safty lights located near the driver and passenger door will not turn off when the car is not running which is causing the battery to drain. where is the fuse to disconnect these lights.

Are the dome lights staying on also?

I don't know if these lights have their own fuse, you'll need to pull and replace the fuses one by one seeing which one turns the lights off. Then check to see if you lose anything else.

1991 Ford Aerostar Engine   

i recently repalced the front cover on this van due to coolant leak, this car has 244,987 the owner drove for a couple of moths with this coolant leak before i did the repair... whe i got done and test drove vehicle to make sure no air in the system it stared to shut off it will try to crank but no start i checked the battery and it was good but the alternator was charging at 12.98...i replaced the alternator then it was ok but it seem like it had no power while driving i drove for 24 miles and the car stared to knock and lost power complitely....now the engine has a knock and no power...it does not over heat...what can have happin?

You replaced the front timing cover? Is the knock coming from behind the cover?

Did you drive the vehicle (on a good test drive) before the repair, so that you know for sure the knock just appeared?

the knock is coming from the back of the engine not the back of the cover. possible lower part....no i did not drive it before the repair it was leaking too much coolant..

Is it perhaps in the flywheel area?

wise there is likely engine damage, probably from the owner overheating the engine while low on coolant. I wonder if they put the repair off to long, heard a slight knock and decided they better get the leak repaired (too late?).

yes it does sound louder in between the engine and trans ....more in the oil pan....some one said it sounds like rod knocking...

The engine is old enough to fail on age/mileage alone, add in an overheat or two and the odds get much worse. It would not surprise me at all if a rod a knocking, especially following an overheat.

what do you recommend?

Does it start knocking louder when you rev the engine and let off the gas?

yes it does

I would recommend replacing the engine or the vehicle at this point. To many miles & bad history to expect a healthy repair without really spending, recommend that they cut their losses.

Will you replace the engine?

no im going to recommend a new mini van.....thank you for your help

Good choice.

1991 Ford Aerostar All Part Groups   

my van starts up and runs fine, up to about a mile or two and then it starts spurttering like its getting no gas and then I smell this fume from I think the carb. Once I cut it off for awhile and drive again it runs fine, and then it starts all over again especially when pulling hills.I replaced spark plugs and wires about two years ago

Must get it scanned for codes,Some parts places do that service for free. If I had to hazard a guess, I would say coolant temp sensor requires replacement.

1990 Ford Aerostar Heating / Cooling System Malfunction  Always

Hello, I have a 1990 4.0 Ford Areostar. The heater is malfunctioning. The blower works fine and adjust to all 3 speeds. There's no hot air, just cool air that blows out from the vent. Could this be just a bad thermostat? Please help.......

Hello, Yes, it could be the thermostat is opening too soon, or stuck open. It could also be a low coolant level or the heater core is stopping up and needs to be back-flushed.

Roger

1990 Ford Aerostar Heating / Cooling System   

I am getting no heat in the cabin of my 1990 Aerostar. I have had the heater core replaced. Both the feed to and return from Heater Core lines are equally warm at running temperature, but still no heat from vents. I have manually held the "actuater arm", on the heater box, which is connected to the diaphram open, but still no heat. There is a black vaccum line connected to the diaphram and blower motor, and a white vaccum line that apparently doesnt have a home. What next? DCT Alaska

See if vacuum opens the vacuum actuator. Nany cars have them and its usually not a problem The most common problem I have seen is the actual control switch panel. Got any autowreckers in Alaska?

1990 Ford Aerostar All Part Groups   

I ran out of gas, now it won't start?

Hello, Did you determine if the fuel pump runs? If the pump quits you will "run out" of gas.

When you turn the key to ON but do not turn it to START the fuel pump should run for two seconds and stop. This is supposed to pressure up the fuel rail.

Roger

1989 Ford Aerostar Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction Happens always Always

transmission was replaced with one from another aerostar than was working. The problem is the transmission does not turn in any gear (reverse - drive - etc.) the van is an eddie bower addition with a 3.0 eng. This problem is the same one the original transmission had. Is the problem the power control module or what? or should i stick to working on bicycles?

Hello, you need to check two things. First of all that the fluid is full and being pumped. If the fluid is okay, and the problem absolutely mirrors the previous one the shift lever and linkage area must be to blame. Assuming the drive axles,etc are working. Make sure the vehicle won't roll in park.

1989 Ford Aerostar Engine Malfunction Happens sometimes When warm 

Engine idle sometimes goes up and down when in gear and brakes are applied. Engine does not backfire or hessitate when the van is moving. There is no black or white smoke coming out the exhaust. Engine does not stall. Idle does not go up or down when transmission is in park. Engine trouble light does not turn on until i make a turn, then the engine trouble light comes on. This change in idle speed happens about twice a day. Engine trouble light turns on after about 10 minutes of driving, and it turns on after making a turn? There is a small coolant leak in one of the radiator hoses, but i keep the coolant level at the correct level. The van does not overheat even when it is used in traffic for about 40 minutes. The van has no problems with accelerating or decelerating or bad fuel economy. Van has no problems in starting up cold every morning, it always starts on the firt try. Van has also passed the arizona emissions inspections.

Is there a possibility of a sensor going bad which causes the idle to sometimes vary? If so, which one is going bad.

The engine trouble light coming on with no change in the vans performance is strange. Engine light does not come on when the idle varies. Seems to be two separate items going on with the van. Idle varies but engine light does not turn on and engine light turns on and idle does not vary?

Hello, Have you had this van checked to see what drivability codes are being set when the engine trouble light comes on? A scanner/code reader can find current and history codes in the computer's memory and provide direction for repair. Often a national auto parts chain store will "read" the codes for you at no charge. Give them a call.

The idle speed control motor may be sticking or the throttle body bore might be in need of cleaning. I would look at the mass airflow sensor and the air filter for cleanliness, too.

A public library is a great source for reference material.

Roger

1989 Ford Aerostar Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction Happens always Always

my odometer and overdrive do not work. i have a digital display for speedometer/ odometer and neither one works. all other gauges work fine.

Hi;
My first guess would be the speed sensor. If the display is coming on and the speedometer is not working this would be the cause. The speed sensor is at the transmission on the tail shaft of it. Good Luck Les.

i am getting no milage and the transmission is not shifting into overdrive?!!

Hi;
Again the speed control sensor controls this. Make sure it is connected. It tells you the speed and also tells the transmission bia the computer when to shift. Thanks Les.

would the speed senser also cause the transmission to not shift into overdrive as well

Hi;
Yes it will in some cases. If the transmission is electronic. If not then you will have to adjust the TV cable. It should be located at the firewall. Push in on the clip and push the cable in one notch at a time. If your shifting gets harder then go the opposite way. This controls your shift points and also your upshifting. Thanks Les.

1989 Ford Aerostar Drive Train / Driveline Slipping When accelerating No pattern

Recently I had my transmission overhauled. The tranny had to be taken apart a second time because the 4th gear seal had problems. Now when under hard acceleration, stressing the engine, the transmission goes out of gear and acts like it is in neutral. If I back off the accelerator for a short period of time, the transmission goes back into 4th gear. Is this a transmission problem or is it in the electronics or computer or vaccumm?

Hi;
Most likely is going to be internel trans problem. Youcan disconnet the overdrive wiring harness located on the right side of the trans. If it goes thru the gears and shift smoothly then it will tell you have internal problems. Good Luck Les.

After I disconnect the wiring, are you telling me to drive the car to check it out?

Hi:
Yes. Take it for atest drive. Thanks Les.

Hi;
Waiting for response. Thanks Les.

1989 Ford Aerostar Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

When I turn ON my van, the panel lights (acceleration, speed, gas) its ok, its ON, but when I turn my headlights it goes OFF, but I can see verry dark that stil working (the acceleration and speed, and temp, gas). My panel is digital. And when I turn the headlights off the panel come back ON (the lights) I did check the dimmer control I did check wiring connections plug can you help me?"

Hello, What did you find when you checked the dimmer control? Was a digital high impedence volt/ohm meter used to see if the dimmer comtrol varied the output voltage? What was the input voltage to the dimmer control, please?

Roger

I'm sorry , but how can I check the voltage?
I have check voltage from 11.0v to 15.0v, works?

thanks

I'll get a wiring diagram so I can offer the color code for the wires on the dimmer control. Did you get 15 volts at the dimmer control without the engine running? Was the 11 volts you got without the engine running? Could you adjust the dimmer control and vary the voltage reading?

Roger

well,
I test the wires
when the car its OFF: green/yellow 12v; and others dead
when car ON: green/yellow: 14v; Blue/red 14v; morrow 14v; and black/blue always dead.

and when I adjust the dimmer control the voltage does not change any time, car ON or OFF

I'm not seeing the diagram I want from home and I am going into the city where I can get to a better data base later to day. Then, I can get serious.

Will that work for you?

Meanwhile, can you disconnect the dimmer control from your vehicle easily? Try using an ohm meter between the terminals on the dimmer control (not the wiring connector) and test resistance between the terminal for the green/yellow wire and the terminal for the blue/red wire. When moving the dimmer control can you vary the resistance? See if there is a combination of terminals you can test that will show a change in resistance value.

I'm suggesting that the blue/red wire is the dimmer control output to the instrument lights. Resistance should vary between the dimmer input green/yellow and the output blue/red when the dimmer control position/setting is changed. Blue/black is probably ground.

Roger

I notice one thing, when I test the spring doesn't show me any voltage, is that normal?

Yes, I believe it is.

Roger

now I tested and thr spring works (have voltage);
the morrow goes to one side to a spring ; black/blue goes to the well to a metal that stay very close the the green/yellow; the blue/red goes to the other side the well to other spring; and the green/yellow goes to metal that stay close to the black. if you can give me your e-mail I can send a pic from the dimmer
do you thing it is the dimmer that making this problem on the panel?
thanks

Sorry, All-Parts policy won't allow me to post my personal email on this site.

Yes, if a resistance reading cannot be varied by changing the dimmer control setting I believe the dimmer control could be the fault.

I'm leaving now to go to the city where I can get a better wiring diagram. I have several errands to run so it will be ahile before I can get back to you.

I'm honest to tell you I am not familiar with the term "marrow".

Thanks,

Roger

ok, I'll be here waiting ([redacted] ), so then we can solve this matter
thanks roger

at any time the voltage varied, I try every way, it always 14v when my car its running (ON) and headlights are ON, when headlights are OFF only green/yellow satys 12v

thanks roger

one more thing
my car have like computer trip (top the roof where you can see the average gas) there lights are ON when car its running(ON) and panel too, but I turn headlights ON panel shut's OFF and computer trip turns OFF and transmition light marker too (OFF)
basicly all the lights turns OFF when I turn headlights ON
oh my God
what could be?

thanks

do you thing have somenthing to do with the radio? on same day I try to chenage the radio, but the radio don't work, and I took the radio off (no more radio)

Did the problem begin when you removed the radio? Removing the radio should have no effect on on this current problem unless you blew a fuse. The lights are not wired in series so if one component fails, the others should work unless a fuse blows.

First you need to check all of your fuses. Do you have an Owner's Manual? Can you locate where the relays are located? There is a possibility that a "Day/Night Illumination Relay" may have failed.

Power should be present on the switch Lt- Green/Yellow wire because that is the power feed for the dome lights. The Black/Lt- Blue wire is a ground circuit. If fuse #13 is good, power should be present on two Lt- Blue/Red wires to power the dimmer control and to power the illumination of the switch itself.

Do you have a fax number I can send information to? If not I can scan to email a trouble-shooting chart.

Roger

yes, after I change the radio, but the radio have problem so I left with out radio.

I have to check the relay, because was a fuse broke and I change but the problem still, I don't know about any relay, well I don't see any on fuse box under dash left side.

the radio have anything to do with this problem?
some guy said this to me: "you have the radio ground on the light wire of the car,ground the radio to a good piece of metal"

I don't have any more radio, the wires are just there, protect, I just notice the light after I did this to the radio.


thanks, roger

you can send to my e-mail [redacted]

thanks roger

Okay, I'll prepare the scan to email.

Thanks,

Roger

Did the four documents I sent you come through all right?

I'm wondering if you were to reinstall the radio if the problem would go away? Since you say the trouble showed up when you removed the radio there must be a connection somehow. I haven't figured that out...

Roger

yes, but its too complicate for me, I'm afraid to make worse.
I notice one thing today, when I turn headlights ON the lights on panel, on transmition, computer trip and headphone lights (behind driver seat) they not on, and check the voltage on transmition light have 0v ( no voltage)
what you thing?

thanks

I put the radio back, problem still.
the fuse from dash lights (panel) burn again (5A) I put 10A, but did not solve the problem.

If putting the radio back in caused the 5 amp Panel fuse to blow there is a short in the radio. Do not install a 10 amp fuse in a 5 amp slot. You can cause wires to burn doing that. Stick with the original size fuse...always.

If "TEST A" is too complicated for you I won't be able to guide you with the diagnosis. Is there a family member or friend you can ask for help?

I don't know what to think about the lights that you found to not work today. Panel lights are powered by Fuse #13. Have you checked Fuse #8? Fuse #8 powers the Trip Computer.

Where do you want to go from here?

Roger

Roger, every fuse I put (number 13), burns right after I turn headlights ON. What do you thing?

thanks

There is a dead short to ground. Panel lights are powered by fuse #13 and runs to the back of the radio on a Lt-Blue/Red wire. Look at the wiring that connects to the radio. Trace the Lt-Blue/Red wire away from the radio connector and look for the wire to be pinched or the insulation cut on a bracket or signs of overheating.


See if you can get a 10 amp circuit breaker that will plug into the fuse box in position #13. I believe an auto parts store should have one. It will get hot to the touch when plugged in so be careful when handling it. With the circuit breaker substituting fuse #13 you can move wiring, disconnect components and troubleshoot without blowing a bunch of fuses. The breaker will trip and reset so long as the short is present. When you isolate the problem the breaker will reset and remain on to power the panel lights.

Roger

the fuse number 13 goes to the radio only, and transmition light on floor?

Is fuse #13 the only one we are concerned with or did you find others? Fuse #13 powers the instrument light dimmer control.

Roger

the only thats was burn.

Fuse #13 also powers the Day/Night Illumination Relay. Can you find a relay in a fuse or relay box that has five wires/terminals? Unplug it and see if the short goes away. The colors of the wires to this relay are one of each of the following:

Black, Brown, Lt-Blue/Red, Pink/Black, Lt-Blue/Black.

Roger

this Relay its locate at same fuse box? what color is this relay?do you thing the problem could be a wire that goes to illumination on floor (transmission) or to the headphone (radio box behind driver seat) has striped? causing thi fuse to burn?

Do you have an Owner's Manual for this van? It would tell you where the relays are. Most relays in a Ford are black in color, but the color of the relay is not a factor as to it's function.

The cause of the short can be any of the system's components or the wiring that connects them. A technician would inspect the related wiring to all of the components of the system that blows the fuse. I can't see what you see. You'll need to look and decide the condition of what you inspect. There is no Easy Button we can push.

Can you go by a Ford Dealership and ask the service department to show you where the relays are?

What you have said about the lights were fine until you removed the radio is troubling me. If the problem didn't happen until you removed the radio and then fuse #13 started blowing, there is a good chance the radio wiring has the fault. (Not the wiring to the headphone or the transmission gear indicator.)

This may be more intense to repair than we anticipated. I'm thinking it's time to seek professional help.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

I did pu the radio back, but still, I do have owner guide, manual.
I don't whant to go to dealership, too much money. what do you sugest?
thanks roger

Your message says you DO have an Owner's Manual. Is this correct? Can you find the page that talks about Fuses and Relays and their location?

I will go to my Ford dealership and ask where the relay is located. Your dealer would have told you where to find the relay without writing a repair order. They would not charge you for such information. Hang on,....I'll get back to you about where to find the relay.

You really would benefit from just having a conversation with the shop foreman at a Ford dealership about your Aerostar. I don't think you would be treated unfairly. They would want to earn your business whether or not you left it with them the day you visit, or not.

I've spent alot more money on fuel and data base research for your question than I'll ever make with the fee you offered and still I haven't quit trying to help you. A good dealership should behave likewise.

Back today,

Roger

sorry ROger I didn't mean to pay so less, its because I never trust service on internet, your service was the only one I ever find it really good, but don't worry we can stop our conversation here, so you don't spend more money on gas or other way to solve my problem. you really are a great professional ever.
I'll find the direction of the wires from fuse 13 to see if that's any streap on then.

thank you

I thing I make a big mistake, before you sead not to put on fuse 13 10A I did, so then I heard like burn noise and smell, I test the fuse 13 and now power on both wire. I do I do Roger?

:(

that is any way to cheat on this system and make this lights ON all the time, not to go to Dimmer, like disconect the dimmer and make lighs ON all the time.
thanks

Wait a minute. I'm going to email you some information from Ford's Aerostar Shop Manual.

Look closely at the layout of the fuse panel, the way the fuses are numbered and which fuse powers the different systems.

Tell me again what number fuse blows? What fused (number fuse) had the burn?

If you put the wrong fuse in the fuse panel location and wires began to burn there is no easy fix and there is no cheating. What a terrible consequence for your mistake. Burning wires damage all they are in contact with and all will need to be inspected and replaced/rewired as needed. I charge $80.00 an hour to do wiring burn repairs and I clock-in on the repair order to track my work in real time. I hope yours will not come to that.

Study what I send you and please advise. I'll even send you a pic of where the Day/Night Illumination Relay is, but I must tell you this relay VERY RARELY fails. Worse, it's been discontinued by Ford.

Roger

ok, before the fuse number 13 burn 2 times, but I make a mistake and put one of 10A, and I heard noise like burning and smell too, but I look at it and the buse was not burn, and I falow the wires to see wher it burn then, but founf nothing.
Do you thing that could be the relay taht burn?
Now I check the fuse 13 and thers no voltage on both sides ( thers is 2 wires L. Blue/red but one is more thick that goes to the Dimmer control, and other I don't know where it goes..

Do you see on the fuse panel description I sent you last night that fuse #13 is supposed to be a 20 amp circuit breaker? That is for your power windows. A circuit breaker is usually silver in color.

Fuse #10 powers the radio/tape player, and amplifier. Fuse #10 should be a 15 amp and will be blue in color. Fuse #10 also powers the multifunction switch via a Dark-Blue/Orange wire. The multifunction switch is your turn signal switch, hazard warning lights, headlight Flash-To-Pass switch, etc.

If you smelled somthing burning then you'll have to find where it happened. The wiring insulation melts and worsens the short.

The "other" Lt-Blue/Red wire from the dimmer will likely run to the Day/Night Illumination Relay.

What did you find?

Roger

i make a terrible mistake its fuse #12 5A, My God, I'm so sorry Roger.

I fund no burns, nothing like burn wire.
Form fuse #12 thers 2 wire L.Blue/Red, one (the thick ) wire, goes to the Dimmer and the other I don't know where it goes, I try to follow, but I can't.

Fuse #12 powers the lights at the transmission floor shift and also instrument panel lights.

Has any liquid spilled into the floor shift area? Coffee or pop? That could cause a short. Have you removed the trim and looked in the shift area for damage?

Roger

yes , I look for streap, burn and I test the light and no voltage!! do you thing I can cheat on light and make ON all the time the car is ON? forget about the dimmer.
what do you thing? I don't care if I can do that.

Not until the short is found. If you connect power from a different source to a circuit that has a short the wires will burn for sure! Notice there is no other 5 amp fuse from which you could get power. Power from any other source would be worse than when you put the 10 amp fuse in the 5 amp spot.

Realize you need the help of a professional. If your van is not worth that, sell or trade it because if you can't live with it like it is and you continue to try and cheat you'll have a fire.

Roger

1989 Ford Aerostar Engine Hesitating When accelerating When warm 

Hi - I have a 3.0 liter with 5 speed. runs perfectly when cold, but as soon as it warms up it misses and hesitates under light throttle. also misses at idle once warm. under heavier throttle the misses and hesitation goes away. Any help appreciated.

A bad plug wire can do that, or one not installed properly. If your wires are new, check that they are plugged in both ends firmly. Look for burns where they may have touched the exhaust. Check for ends pulled loose from the wire. If the tuneup was done recently, check for cracked electrodes on the spark plugs. The difficulty installing plugs on this van has caused plugs to get cracked in the process. If no tuneup has been done recently, it may be time to replace the wires.

hi - I'll check all that, but I have a question. Would bad wires explain why it runs great when cold, but lousy when warm?

thnx

Mike

I had a Chevy with the same symptoms. Could not figure it out, but it ran great after the wires were changed. The spark plug require the highest voltage when the mixture is the leanest=warm and light to moderate load.

When the engine is cold, the mixture is richer, under heavy load it is richer and will fire easier than when it is lean.

You may want to check the plug wire resistance. Should be approximately 7000 ohm/foot.

Dale

1989 Ford Aerostar Engine Leaking Happens always When warm 

Engine leaks about a gallon of water from somewhere in engine and that's about it. Temp gauge goes up almost to red area but not quite. Engine has to be fairly hot before the gallon of water will leak out. Have replaced hoses, radiator cap, thermostat and water pump, still does the same thing. I can't seem to find the source. SOmeone says it might be a blown head gasket or cracked head. If so, do any of thoese online repair items work like "Thermogasket"?

Do you get any white smoke from the exhaust?

Any signs of condensation from the engine on oil fill cap or dipstick (milky appearance)?

Also which engine do you have?

No white smoke, engine oil on dipstick is dark...no milky color no condensation on oil cap. ENgine is 3.0 6cyl.

Okay, do you get any steam from under the hood or see water dripping on the ground? Be sure to check the coolant reservoir and its hose to be sure the leak is not here.

I think I found the source of the leak. I didn't notice the resevoir under tha battery! Its bubbling out water from the plug on top of the resevoir and it seems to back up to the hose at top of radiator and leaks from there too but mostly from the resevoir. There's also an outlet right below the one with the hose that goes to the resevoir but there's nothing attached to it. Is something blocking the water flowing thru the resevoir?

Is there a whole in the hose that goes from the reservoir to the radiator?

1989 Ford Aerostar Engine Overheating Happens always Always

Van overheats after driving 3 miles or more. Coolant starts over flowing out of the resevoir until about half of the coolant is gone. Water pump, heater hoses and thermotat has been replaced. There is no condensation on the oil cap, No water in oil. No white smoke coming from engine or exhaust. I flushed out the radiator. Van still overheats.

Hello, Run a compression test for the possibility of a head gasket leak. An engine overheating that quickly and belching coolant into the overflow sounds like a head gasket failure.

Roger

How are you doing here?

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, are you working on this one or are you finished?

Please update,

Roger

1989 Ford Aerostar Fuel System Malfunction When starting Always

Car starts okay and immediately dies. Same thing over and over if trying to start it. It has a new fuel pump and fuel filter. One can hear the fuel pump come on when turning the key on and then after a couple of seconds it stops. the ignition module that is on the side of the distributor was exchanged with another used one. Any ideas why this car will not stay running??? Thanks...

Hello, Try unplugging the MAP sensor. If that will let the engine continue to run replace it.

Roger

Roger I got your message. I am a 75 year old retiree trying to help a young neighbor married man, with a newborn baby, who works for a dollar an hour over miniumum wages. This 1989 Aerostar was given to him by a relative because he needs a car. When the relative owned it was running and it quit running. The relative replaced the fuel pump and filter and anyway he couldn't get the car running and so he gave the car to my neighbor Duane. I will get back to you after we do as you have suggested which might hopefully be later today or tomorrow. Thank you.
Jim

All right, I'll just stand by. This is not a live chat so I keep checking in.

Roger

Not sure if what we found was the MAP sensor but it was the only thing we could find that had a vacuum line and an electrical connector. It was a round metal thingie about 3/4" or so in diameter and about 2.5" long with a T'd vacuum connnection in one end and an elelctrical connector on the other end... Anyway we diconnected it and while disconnected tried to start the engine and it would start and then die and the same thing over and over... Any other ideas Roger??? Thanks...
Jim
===

How old is the gasoline supply? What size engine, please? Does it seem as though the engine starts and then just runs out of gas like the fuel pump does not come back on to maintain pressure?

When the engine has started and died, while the key is still on, can you verify spark while cranking again trying to restart?

I'll be able to get to a better data base tomorrow for more troublshooting info.

I want to win this one,

Roger

I can't answer the question about the age of the gas. I will ask Duane tomorrow about that.

The engine is a 3.0L

I don't know what to say about whether the engine runs out of gas immediately after it has started. At times I thought maybe it smelled like it flooded out but I don't want to lead you astray with that statement. But yes it just seems like it runs out of gas.

I could spray some starting fluid in the intake to see if it would keep on running when we try to start it if I could get to the intake some way. I don't know where the the MAF sensor is yet though.

Tomorrow after Duane comes home we will check the spark without turning the key off, after we have started it, to see if it is still sparking...

Thanks.

Jim

Jim, The ignition control module (ICM) was replaced with another used one. National auto parts chain stores in your area may have an ICM tester. If so, I recommend the ICM be tested. In my area this service is free of charge.

Limitations for troubleshooting are becoming more apparent now as the need for test equipment such as a noid light, a logic probe, and a multi-meter may soon be needed.

We know the fuel pump runs for about two seconds when the key is turned on. It should. That is to pressure up the fuel rail.

A crank shaft sensor sends primary ignition pulse signals (PIP) to the ignition control module (ICM). The ICM processes the PIP signal (acts just like a set of points would) and sends out the spark-out (SPOUT) signal to fire the ignition coil. The mechanical timing of the engine places the rotor inside the distributor cap in position to distribute the spark to the correct plug wire.

There are very few ways to shortcut the tests to find the problems source.

I am looking for those shortcuts and hopefully will keep you men out of the tool store.

Roger

Roger:
Duane came over last night and I asked him about the age of the gas. He said the oldest gas was about two months old and the newest just less than about two weeks.

The ICM was tested by Schucks Auto Supply and they said it was good.

I have a digital multimeter. I also have a 100Mhz scope that I used to use in electronics but I have no idea how to use it for anything automotive (In fact I haven't used it for so many years I am not sure I even know how to turn it on anymore...haha...).

I see I could buy a set of noid lights for $10.36 + S&H here: http://www.thepartsbin.com/cartools/diagnostic_tools-noid_light_set-678-d.html

Everything must work properly for a couple of seconds, enough to get the engine to start but the question is then what happens so that it don't stay running???

One of our biggest problems is knowing what sensors are what and then knowing where they are located. The only manual we have is the Haynes manual which is only a little better than having nothing at all since it covers from 1986 to 1997 models and four different engines. If we had a factory service manual for this particular car it might help us a little...haha...

I will get back to you tonight after we check to see if we still have spark after starting and leaving the key on and then cranking again and checking for spark.

Thanks.

Jim
===

Jim, Would you like for me to email or fax some info I found in the Mitchell 1 data base? Please advise where to send it.

Hey, check the inertia switch in the right kick panel and see if the button needs reset. It is a switch that is supposed to trip during a vehicle collision to cut off fuel flow to reduce the risk of fire.

The MAP sensor is located on the left fender inner panel. So are connectors for self diagnostics.

Fuel pressure should read 30-45 psi and if the engine is not started and should hold for several minutes after the key is turned off.

A factory shop manual (pricey for sure) is available for purchase at www.helminc.com

Your local library may have data base access in the library that would prove valuable to you guys. It's free!

Roger

Yes Roger please email me any info you can put your hands on that would be helpful. Here is an email address for you to use: [redacted]

We had already found and checked the inertia switch. I even unplugged it and shorted out the connections with a paper clip to make sure the circuit was closed and then tried to start the engine with that same results as before of it just starting and quitting...

I saw the diagnostics plug but didn't notice the Map sensor which I would have expected to be somewhere in the air intake. I really haven't looked for it yet.

A friend had suggested that the problem might be the fuel pressure regulator but I haven't located it yet either...haha... It is so hard to find things and no room to work on anything with this rig. Engineers who engineered these things should have to work on them the rest of their lives...haha...

We live in a small town (Longview/Kelso, WA) and our library doesn't have much of anything, but I will check. Thanks for the suggestion.

Can we just email back and forth or do we have to stay on here to converse? If we can lets do it as you now have an email address for me.

Thanks again for your help.

Jim
===

Jim The MAF sensor ( if the Aerostar has one) is in the air intake. MAF = Mass Air Flow.

I was thinking of the MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) and it should be on the left inner fender.

I've never seen an email address with my name and all parts included. Is that an address you set up?

Communication needs to be on this site as the administrators monitor what I do.

The public library data base help is an on-line service one can use while in the library. I hope you have the service.

Roger

Duane tried to start the Aerostar just a few minutes ago and it wouldn't start at all now. However without shutting the key off he cranked again to check the spark and it had good spark... Now what my friend???
Jim
====

OK we know we have spark during cranking. That means the crankshaft sensor, the ignition module, the distributor and all associated wiring should be okay.

That leaves fuel pressure and whether or not the engine computer is firing the injectors. Will it start and run on starting fluid until the sprayed in supply is used up?

Here is where the noid light would flash if plugged into an injector wiring connector when the engine is cranking. If no flash and the fuses are all good, the computer has a driver module problem. If connections to the computer are free of corrosion and weather tight the computer is likely the cause.

I've never seen anyplace that can field test the vehicle's computer. If you go to the expense of a computer you want to be sure you need it.

Roger

Roger I am looking at an Engine control wiring diagram for 1986 through 1991 with 3.0L engine. and it looks like all we need for fuel pump to run is the power to the PCM Relay through the fusible link which is turned on by the ignition switch, and power to Fuel Pump Relay through the fusible link, and for the EECM to turn on that relay and then for the Inertial Fuel Shutoff Switch to be made up. Not much just to make the fuel pump run...haha...

If I just knew for sure where the PCM and the Fuel Pump Relays where I could check them out to make sure we were getting 12V through towards the fuel pump.

Later today, when Duane gets home from work, I will spray starting fluid in the intake to see if the engine will run.

Can you tell me where the EECM (computer I guess) is located. If I can find that I will unplug and plug it back in a few times in case there is a bad connection there as sometimes happens.

If starting fluid makes the engine run and if I can locate the Fuel Pump Relay I could close that circuit by jumpering across the relay contact wires to see if that would make engine run. Does the Ford Aerostar have a bypass fuel return at the pressure regulator that returns excess fuel to the tank?

I guess that is it for this morning.

Jim
===

Good morning Sir,

I'll get you some answers. Back later today.

Roger

Jim, Until I can get back home to send copies I can relay the following:

The EECM is located on the left side of the firewall left of the brake master cylinder.

The MAP sensor is on the firewall about halfway accross. (per Mitchell 1 Data Base)

The ECA Power Relay is on the left inner fender on a bracket just aft of the Starter Relay. It is the relay closest to the starter relay.

The Fuel Pump Relay is on the bracket on the left inner fender just aft of the ECA Power Relay. (second to the rear of the starter relay)

I'll also send you pics of the front and rear views of the 3.0L engine sensor locations.

Roger

Thanks for the info Roger. I looked at the relays near the left inner fender a little before and they are all just hanging by their wires...haha... But I will see if I can figure out which ones are which by the wire color assuming the multiple year wiring diagram I have is correct for the 1989. If I can eventually put a finger on everything I think that will help a little.

Duane isn't home yet but hopefully sometime after he gets home we will check to see if the engine will start and run for a little bit on starting fluid. Let you know as soon as I find out.

Jim
====

I'll try to check with you tomorrow afternoon.

Roger

I'm back home. How are you guys doing on the van?

Roger

Hi Roger: We didn't do anything over the holidays.

Tonight we went out and tried to figure out where some of the stuff is located. We found the Power Relay and the Fuel Pump Relay. That plastic rack is actually located along side the battery further forward than Mitchell shows and we could only find three relays and they were all just laying around and not up in the plastic relay holder. We found the engine computer and the MAP sensor. Couldn't find any MAF sensor anywhere in the intake though.

We tried to start it using starting fluid but it wouldn't start. Tried that a couple of times. Also we checked to make sure we were getting spark and we were...

Then we unplugged and plugged in all the different connectors we could find around the left inner fender including the engine computer and the MAP sensor and tried to start it and it was no start.

When turning the key on the Power Relay wouldn't come on most of the time. Intermittently it would come on. So I jumpered the the red and yellow wires, which are the contacts of that relay and the fuel pump would come on and that also supplies power to one side of the fuel injectors but it would never start (of course the control of the injectors is done by the computer). As I am sitting here looking at the wiring diagram I remembered the first thing you said to do and that was to unplug the MAP sensor. What I unplugged before turned out not to be the MAP sensor that I now know since I located it tonight from one of those Mitchell sheets you emailed me.

So tomorrow night I guess we can try unplugging the MAP sensor and see if it starts. Do you have any other ideas Roger?

Jim
===

Have you removed a spark plug to see what it looks like? The plugs may need cleaning up.

Have you checked for spark on both banks? How many coil packs does that engine have?

Can you access an injector on each bank, disconnect one and using your meter check for voltage pulse to determine if the computer fires the injector while the engine is cranking?

My bald spot is starting to grow from brainstorming here!

Roger

Roger I worked on my motorhome all day yesterday and when Duane got home I wasn't interested on doing anymore work...haha... This olddawg had already done too much.

Besides that we are kind of discouraged about getting this thing running. Will try to check some more stuff as you suggested tonight.

Thanks again for all of your help Roger.

Jim
===

Thanks, I hope Duane realizes what a great friend and neighbor you are.

Are there any auto vo-tech schools in your area? Free labor, owner buys parts.

Roger

Duane is a very special young man. He mows my lawn for me for free just to help me out so anything I can do for him I try to do. We both try to help each other when we can. He is an exceptional young person and we really appreciate having him for a neighbor.

We do have a Junior College here that has an Auto Shop. It hasn't started for the year yet. One can only get cars in there to be worked on that have problems related to what they are studying at that particular time though. Thanks for the suggestion and we will keep that in mind.

Jim
===

I went to high school vo-tech auto mechanics in 1965. We couldn't wait to get our hands some coaching on whatever would come in the door. I've been wrenching all these years and I still enjoy the challenge.

I was forced into medical retirement in 2000. Seems the exposure to agent orange in Vietnam caught up with me and my leukemia came back. I've been cancer free since a bone marrow transplant in March of 2000. God answered the prayers said for me and I'm healed.

The VA does all of my health care and I'll remain on disability due to immunal supression. My sister is my donor.

Roger

Well PRAISE THE LORD for your healing Roger. I am happy for you that you are well my friend and isn't it great to have a lovely sister to be your bone marrow donor... I pray that your health will continue to be good.

What part of the country do you live in Roger if you don't mind me asking?

We are going to look at Duane's Aerostar on Sunday as that is the only time he has available. It looks like things regarding the Aerostar will be on hold after that because my brother in law and sister are riding the train up here from Southern Oregon and then they are going visit with us for a few days. Then all four of us are driving back to their home and we will be staying there and visiting with them for a week or two.

Thanks so much for your help my friend.

So we will not be doing anything to Duanes Aerostar after Sunday for a while. Will you still be available to help us when we get back to it?

Wouldn't it be nice to wrap this up on Sunday?? Hey, a man can dream!

I am in Arcadia, OK 73007 about 20 miles NE of Okla City.

You may leave the question open until you return from your visit. There is no reason to close and reopen.....it will keep.

I do tell all that to God be the glory for my healing. He is in control.

I have seven siblings. When testing for a bone marrow donor we tested the first four and two were a perfect match! The remaining three siblings called a time out...no need to test them. Man I think that is funny when ever it comes to mind.

My sister was on a plane and came to my aide before the brother that matched could get free to travel.

God is good,

Roger

1989 Ford Aerostar Drive Train / Driveline   

I get a knocking that seems to come from the left rear of van. It happens only when I accelerate. It stops when I let up on accelerator

First thing to do is jack up that corner, support securely and check wheel bearing by trying to move wheel sideways and up and down.There should be no excessive movement or looseness. If that produces no results, try removing the wheel and brake drum and inspect for loose or worn parts.
I am guessing wheel bearing though.

1987 Ford Aerostar Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving Always

the overdrive does not go in

it happen two weeks ego
I changed the vacuum diaphragm
transmission fluid,filter
and does not upshift overdrive

By the vacuum diaphragm,do you mean the shift modulator?Also,is this vehicle equiped with a switch to manually turn the overdrive off and on?A little more info and we'll try to figure it out.
Good Luck,
Paul

yes, the switch modulator
no, there is not a switch to turn off and on

Sorry for getting back so late.My computer has been down.When you changed out the modulator,did you check all vacuum lines?If equiped with cruise control,check the cables at control and throttle body.
Good Luck,
Paul

check all vacuum lines
check cables at control and trottle body
if it helps the control is not working good

Not exactly.The vacuum controls several functions.Any leaks can cause one of them not to operate properly.The cables need to work in unison to insure the throttle body is positioning properly to let the ECM know when a kickdown or upshift is necessary.If all is well in these areas,then another page needs to be turned so as to try and determine the problem.I couldnt tell you from here that it is the cruise control without these checks first.The problem could lay deeper but these would be some of my first checks.
Good Luck,
Paul

I replace the vacuum houses.
I'm not a mechanic,so I don't know
much about it,if you explain in more detail
I will help me
no overdrive yet.

Can I get somebody to answer my ????????????
before I get to old?

Did you notice any other problems when this occured?

Does the check engine light come on with the engine running? Have you check for computer trouble codes?

Does the transmission never shift into overdrive, or does it try to shift into overdrive but slips/don't move?

no engine light come on.
computer codes? don't know how
two weeks ego it was try to shift into overdrive
but slips,and that was it not more overdrive.

Okay, if it shifts into overdrive but slips (or don't work at period) you have internal transmission damage. It's common for these transmission to have problems that effectively require a rebuild.

1987 Ford Aerostar All Part Groups   

My 89 Aerostar XLT has a digital dashboard, and after the engine runs for about 3 minutes, it makes this loud "BEEEP" about every 10 seconds and flashes that my oil level is low. I've checked my engine oil level multiple times since this has started happening, and it remains at full. i'm wondering if this is a sensor problem or something with my oil pressure?

Start by checking the oil sending unit.

Do you hear any engine noise? The engine will get very noisy if you are indeed losing oil pressure. Does the engine use any oil?

http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/14/cb/7[redacted] cb78.jsp

Copy and Paste the link above into your Address Bar. The link will take to a free online repair guide.

The engine seems to be using oil rather normally, and my engine isn't making any abnormal noises. Thank you for your reply! If it's a sensor problem, would you have any suggestions on fixing it myself?

Hi,

Were you able to the previous link from Autozone to work?

Yes, i did get the link to work, and thank you for your reply. I found a section on replacing the oil pressure gauge, but nothing with diagnostics. I'm very quite ignorant when it comes to vehicles, no less electronic instruments and dashboard. Is this what I would want to have replaced if this problem is occurring with the oil sensor?

Look on the right side of the following page for information on the sending unit or level sensor-

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/14/a3/1[redacted] a315/repairInfoPages.htm

The site takes a little while to learn to navigate, but has a lot of good info on your vehilce.