Ford Bronco

2007 Ford Bronco Engine   

the truck runs but its only running on 6 cylinders i took it somewhere they said they think its the cam since its the two cylinder on both sides but they have no spark so i dont think its the cam its running rich it stalls at lights i messed with the distributor with no timing light would this make it have no spark on the cylinders it has headers no cat try ed everything new cap wires plugs please help

Hi, please confirm the year and engine size of your Bronco.

Thanks,

Roger

its a 1990 bronco with a 302 the place i took it to said i didnt have spark on two cylinders i just checked them my self everyone plug wire i took of the car changed how it ran in park it runs fine in drive its dumping gas you can see the smoke fumes coming out of the intake and some smoke coming from the oil dip stick it only does it in gear

Sounds like you should stsrt with a compression test and a scan (even if there are no codes. Your tech might be correct, about the cam.If two lobes were worn, it might cause those symptoms under load.

compression is good i try ed to set the timing with out a light if it was off would it make the truck dump gas

Yes because the intake valves opening at wrong time.If timing way off, suspect a 'slipped' balancer. Balancers are two pce, with a rubber ring bonding both together, Sometimes rubber degrades and outer ring turns a bit

thanks for all your help i will check it tommorow i think i mess up trying to set it with out a timing light whats the best way to set the 1990 bronco motors

2003 Ford Bronco Windows / Glass Failing Happens always Always

How do I replace the driver's side window lift motor. I need pictures and instructions in detail to do the job. I have removed the panel and vapor barrier. I have the new motor. There are three (3) dimples where I can not access the bolts holding the motor to the door sidewall.

Hard to believe the brand new truck has a window motor failure already but here goes. The 3 dimples are the locator spots for where you are to drill .. thats right... drill 3 3/8 holes directly over the dimples and the rest is super simple. Any more questions just let me know. AL

2003 Ford Bronco Fuel System Won't Start Happens sometimes When cold

Last week my 1990 Bronco with a 5.8L would not start right up. It eventually did start after about 1 minute of pumping the gas. It ran ok the rest of the day and started the rest of the week allthough it seemed to take a little longer. Today it will not start at all and I do not hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key on. What is the most likely cause? The pump itself or a fuse, relay?
Thanks
Mike

Do you hear the other usual noises when you turn the key on. IE, relays clicking underhood?

The first things to check is for spark to the plugs.
Also does the check engine light come on when you first turn the key on, as it normally does?

I do hear all the normal bells and whistles and the check engine light does come on. I do have spark the only thing that is missing is the buzz of the fuel pump. I think I found the fuse link (on the pasanger side fender well) but I am not sure how to check it.

This is a 1990 and not a 2003...

To test a fusible link use an ohm meter. See if there is continuity through the fusible link. OR, with power on see if there is voltage on both sides of the link.

A trick that sometimes will work is to hit the bottom of the gas tank several times with a rubber mallet. This may get the pump to run again. If it does the pump is the problem and needs to be replaced. Don't trust it!

wise you have to see if 12 volts (battery voltage) is present to the fuel pump connector with the engine cranking. If it is present the fuel pump needs replacing.

If you don't have a repair manual- Edit, Copy, and Paste this link into your adress bar. It should helpful.

http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=beginRepairGuide

1996 Ford Bronco Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise When driving Always

I have a constant nuh nuh nuh nuh nuh grinding sound that increses in speed as the vehicle increases in speed. the rpm does not matter.sometimes goes away when i let off the gas. also a slight hesitation when sitting, and then a sudden clunk when gas is pressed. U joints look ok.

Hello, 2WD or 4WD?

I'm thinking the driveshaft yoke is binding on the transmission output shaft splines.

I'll see if I can get a part number for a really good lube for this purpose.

Please advise your thoughts,

Roger

4wd.

Thank you. It is usually the rear drive shaft yoke splines that bind. It is rare for the truck to be in 4WD all the time.

Ford has a lube for this job that is pricey but very effective. See your Ford Dealer.

An alternative lube that will help is CV Joint Grease.

Remove the rear drive shaft, seperate the yoke from the driveshaft. Clean the splines with solvent and dry the parts.

Lube the splines, reassemble and test drive to re-evaluate.

If your driveshaft is steel use Ford Part Number F87Z-4K277-AA. If aluminum use Part Number 4L5Z-4K277-AA or what ever Ford recommends.

Roger

what do you mean, " truck in 4wd all the time" ? I didn't mean to say it is in four wheel drive all the time if i did. I just meant it was a 4 wd vehicle. this problem happens in 2 or 4 wd mode. Thanks

"what do you mean, " truck in 4wd all the time"....

I didn't perceive that you were saying the vehicle is in 4WD all the time. Sorry for the confusion.

The answer I have offered has not changed.

Roger

How are you doing here, please? I could use an update.

Any news?

Roger

well i was a little confused.when i got under the truck, i found that the drive shaft does not extend into the trans. it connects from the rear diff to the transfer case with a flange. nothing connects to the trans on the rear drive shaft. I was going to check the flange bolts, and the pinion bearing. what do you think?

The rear drive shaft that connects to the transfer case has a rubber boot banded to the shaft and the flange yoke. Inside that boot is the lubricant that allows the driveshaft to extend or contract as needed for different angles of rear suspension.

Inside that boot you will see the splines of the yoke and driveshaft. This is where you want to clean out the old lube from the boot and off the splines.

Reassemble with new lube and reband the boot to keep lube in and the elements out.

Roger

i took off the driveshaft and everything moved smoothly. the yolk moved up and down nicely. do i still need to take it apart?

Yes, you cannot duplicate by hand the torque stress on the splines. There is a much better lubricant available to help the yoke slide under stress.

I recommend the steps I've talked about because it has worked for me so well.

Roger

How are you doing with this one, please?

Just checking in,

Roger

still making noise. if i turn wheel slowly i hear grinding half of turn. Thought maybe it was a wheel bearing

Could that be the rear brake shoes making the slight drag sound? Properly adjusted rear brakes (if drum brake type) will have a slight drag when the weight is off the axle and the rear wheel is turned by hand.

Is there no improvement at all?

Roger

no improvement....also the drag is through only half the turn.

The lubrication on the drive shaft yoke splines was suggested to address the clunk sound when the vehicle starts to move.

When road testing at a low speed for a possible rear axle bearing noise the driver can swerve the vehicle left and right to cause a weight shift. Increasing the load weight will effect the bearing sound.

If the swerve motion is to the left the load is shifted to the right. If the right rear bearing is the source of the noise, the noise will get worse. But, if the noise improves the left rear axle bearing could be at fault as it's load has been reduced when the vehicle swerves to the left.

Any help?,

Roger

1996 Ford Bronco Engine   

I have a 1996 Ford Bronco. One a normal day, the engine runs very strong. But when it gets very hot with A/C on, it will sputter and hestitate when you give it gas. If I turn off the engine and restart it, it will sputter and shake. If I let it sit for 15 minutes or so, it will not start until it cools down, usually about 45 minutes later. The "Check Engine" light is always on because a bad CO2 sensor (that's what my mechanic told said). I'm suspecting either a vapor lock might be the culprit. Or could the heat somehow affect the bad CO2 sensor?. Any recommendations? Is there anything I can do to prevent vapor locks?

You need to check fuel pressure with a gauge to see if pressure is dropping off.

If it won't start for 45 minutes, also check for spark to the spark plugs. Find out if it's a fuel or spark issue, and get back to me.

I don't believe it's the spark issue because it will start but will run very rough with alot of sputtering and shaking for about 30 seconds and then finally die. It would act like it ran out of fuel. Then it would almost start, sometimes start for 2-3 seconds but won't catch. After 45 minutes, it will start, sputter for a few seconds and run normal. The temperature gauge is within normal operating temp.

Try holding the accelerator to the floor when the problem is present, does it start more quickly? If it does you have a flooding condition.

If not, you need to verify that the fuel pump is coming on when you initially turn on the key and during engine cranking. Let me know.

If these don't reveal anything interesting, you'll have to monitor the fuel pressure with a gauge to see if the pump is supply adequate pressure.

I tried hold the accelerator to the floor when it wouldn't start. I even pumped it a few times. Each time it would sputter (almost start) and die. It almost sounds like it's not getting enough fuel.

I can hear the pump come on everytime I turn on the ignition. I never have any problems on a normal day or when the truck is cool. Or while driving in the mountains or on a highway.

I'm suspecting a vapor lock because it only occurs on very hot days while driving in town with stop and go traffic and with A/C on. Yesterday was 97 degrees when it started acting up. I first noticed this 3 years ago in the summer on a hot day.

What are the symptoms are for vapor lock?

Here are some symptoms that usually precedes the problem: 1) Only occurs on hot days with a load (A/C). 2) It will begin to hesitate when I press on the accelerator and will begin to sputter. 3) If I come to a stoplight and sit for awhile, then take off, it will shake and make sputtering noise while accelerating very slowly. It almost sounds it like bad plugs or plugged up muffler. My plugs and wires are about 2 years old (I installed one of those double prong plugs). 4) If I turn off the ignition and restart immediately, it will sputter and shake before it settles down a bit but will continue to run pretty rough. 5) If I let it sit for about 15 minutes, it will not restart. 6) Temperature gauge is usually a bit on the high side but still within the recommended range. 6) After it cools off, starts pretty easy and runs very strong.

Vapor lock is very rare on modern vehicles. As unusual at it sounds, clothes pins on the fuel line was a common trick in the past to used to confirm vapor lock. The had to be careful that the clothes pins wouldn't fall off onto the exhaust where they could catch on fire.

I think you should go to Advance Auto or AutoZone, and have them check the trouble codes for you. There may be something new in there that can be helpful. This is a free service, let me know which codes the find, ie- P0300, P0401, etc.

1996 Ford Bronco Engine   

bronco is making a whistling noise only upon acceleration noise is not loud or harsh live in San Diego it has been cold lately but never gets that cold here.

Is the sound coming from the engine area or elswhere? I'll check for bulletins based on the symptoms.

How cold has it been?

Check fluid levels, notably the power steering.

thanks for response, I noticed it for the 1st time this morning on the way to work. very aware of how my truck runs this is a new development. definately coming from engine compartment. temperature was 48 degrees this morning. although noise is there truck doesnt seem to be running sluggish or missing, no engine light on yet.(work is only 10 miles)

Okay, let me know if it still makes the noise on the way home.

There are no bulletins for a 'whistling' sound.

Check the power steering fluid level and make sure hoses are tight (large air hose from air cleaner to engine).

okay thanks much!!

1996 Ford Bronco Drive Train / Driveline   

I have a P0401 OBD fault code. I also can get a Transmission fault (Blinking overdrive light on selector handle) when it tries to automatically downshift. Are these both related? Vacuum related?

They are unrelated. The transmission does not share vacuum with the EGR.

If you apply vacuum to the EGR valve while the engine is running, the engine should run very rough or stall. If not, suspect bad EGR or clocked passages. If OK, check the vacuum to the EGR solenoid. Should have good vacuum there. If not, fix. At the solenoid, one wire should be hot and the other wire grounded by the computer. If you manually ground the brown/pink wire at idle, the engine should stall or run rough the same as step 1. If not replace the solenoid.

Is the EGR solenoid the same as the DPFE sensor?

No,
The DPFE sensor simply measures the EGR function. It is reporting insufficient EGR flow. They have been problematic...make sure both hoses are attached at both ends. The solenoid opens the vacuum to the EGR valve.

Here is an overview from the FORD manual:
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0401 indicates that Continuous Memory Self-Test has detected insufficient EGR flow.

Possible causes:
--EGR valve stuck closed or iced.
--EGR valve diaphragm leaks.
--EGR valve or flow path restricted.
--EGR vacuum hose off, plugged or leaks.
--VPWR circuit open to EGR Vacuum Regulator (EGR V.R.) solenoid.
--EVR circuit to PCM open.
--EVR circuit to PCM shorted to PWR.
--Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (D.P.F. EGR) sensor pressure hoses both off.
--D.P.F. EGR sensor pressure hoses reversed.
--D.P.F. EGR sensor VREF circuit open.
--Downstream pressure hose off.
--Downstream pressure hose plugged.
--Damaged orifice tube assembly.
--Damaged EGR Vacuum solenoid.
--Damaged D.P.F. EGR sensor.
--Damaged PCM.

If you follow the test I gave you, it will rule out everything except the DPFE sensor and the computer. If all tests pass, check the DPFE hoses and if OK, replace the DPFE sensor.

I'll give it a try tonight. Thanks for the help.

Best Regards,
Ralph

1995 Ford Bronco All Part Groups Smelling When idling Always

Smells strongly of gas while idling. CHECK ENGINE light comes on after I start driving. If left idling won't come on at all; only after shifting to Drive and accelerating. EGR was eliminated by previous owner at the manifold but still connected at the sensor.

Hi:
Need to redo egr valve. The computer must read signals out of it to adjust the fuel mixture. Good luck Les.

Hi;
It is vacuum related. Make sure that the vacuum line going into the dash is connected properly. Thanks Les.

I just wanted to let you know that during my spare time, I traced the problem to interchanged vaccuum lines at the vaccuum reservoir and the EGR valve. That did it. Now, the only thing is that the A/C changes from the dash vents to the defrost on top of the dash when the engine is pulling up a hill. Once you start going downhill, it starts flowing back through the dash vents. Could it be related???

HI;
waiting for response. Thanks Les.

1995 Ford Bronco Windows / Glass Failing Happens always Always

The rear window will not go down. I think the motor is dead but am not sure. Also the passanger window will not go down from the drivers side control.

On the rear gate window, I realize you have to get the glass down to open the gate. If it has a full inner trim panel, this is not an easy task to do but you have to get into the gate to manualy get the glass to go down and continue. The trim panel is held on by push in clips and some screws that may not be accesible with the gate closed. If it dosent have a trim panel, it makes it a little easier. Either way, the inspection panel needs to come off. Once done, locate wire harness to the motor and hitch direct power to it to see if there is any type of movement. Be sure to switch your jumper wires around to change polarity to motor.(The motor only runs the way the polarity dictates). If this does not engage the motor in any way, then the motor has to be disengaged from the regulator. Again not an easy task. You need to use cation when doing this so that the regulator doesnt snap on you.(some have a coil spring that assists in raising and lowering and the release of tension from the motor will cause them to uncoil) The motor should have 3 screws that hold it to the regulator if you have to go this far. Once the glass is down,if the motor was operational in doing so, you need to check the rear gate acuator. Its the switch located on the key lock that operates the glass. You need to do this with the gate down and the glass in the full up position to gain access. Check for action from the lock cylinder to the switch to see if the tang on the cylinder is making correct engagement to switch while also checking continuity comimg from switch to motor is there.(a test light on wires runnig to motor will do)If no power is coming to motor at this jucture, the switch is most likely bad.I dont know what type of conditions youre running in, but in my area of the world, I have dealt with this paticular problem several times due to dirt and grime that builds up in the rear of these paticular vehicles that the electrical cant take. If its the motor, when changing out, make sure you also check these as they are a direct factor to motor failure. Also make sure to clean and lubricate the regulator as well as the glass run channels as these tend to bind the motor and not provide the smooth operation needed. As for the door glass, if it operates properly on the right side, take the master switch on the left door out and swap the switchs(there should be two seperate ones for eash side)lft to rt. If the problem now is reverse, you have a bad operating switch. Another problem I have encounterd in my many years at a Ford dealership.
Good Luck,
Paul

1995 Ford Bronco Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

My drive's side rear lights will not illuminate unless my truck is in park or reverse. Also, the left turn signal will not work. I've changed fuses and the bulbs.

Use a test light on the rear bulb socket to determine what is missing. With your park lamps and hazard flashers on, you should have a steady power supply on the brown wire, there should be flashing power on the orange/light blue wire and the black wire should have steady ground. If these are here, but the light is not lighting, you have a bad bulb or bulb socket. If one of the wires is not providing what is needed, you will need to track that wire to the problem.

1995 Ford Bronco Drive Train / Driveline Vibration When driving Always

When i give the truck gas you can feel a vib. I let off the gas it goes away, give it gas it comes right back. This happens at all speeds. I replaced the motor mounts,transmission mount, vibration dampner and it's still there. I can not figure it out.

Automatic or manual transmission?

Is the vibration from the middle or rear of vehicle?

It's an automatic and seems to come from the middle, but I also fell it in the steering wheel at low speed.

Have you come up with an answer yet.

Sorry for the delay. I want you to review technical service bulletins (TSB's) on your truck and see if one mathces your problem. The only site I know of you can view the bulletins free of charge is by accessing a repair guide through the following site-

http://www.bedlib.org/ebsco.html

At the site click on the 'ARRC' banner then enter your vehicle information- Year, Make, etc. I'd give you a direct link to the 'Service Bulletins and Recalls' but it won't work for some reason.

1995 Ford Bronco Engine   

When driving my 1995 bronco, the vehicle hesitates at 32-35mph, 55-58mph and 65-72mphthe RPM do not change. I did a complete tune up (replace spark plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor, 3- o2 sensors cleaned battery terminals, replaced fuel filter cleaned mass airflow sensor. Problem still exixts??

Hello
From what I can tell from what you are telling me I am thinking TPS (throttle positioning sensor) or your fuel pump is starting to go out.

Heavychevy

Another thing withit stalling and no drop in rpm is it in the process of shifying when it stalls, I would think torque converter. But tomake a good diagnosis over net going tohave to have every detail of what its doing. How long has it been going on? Is it getting worse? Going uphill? What exactly is the bronco doing while its stalling is it jrking is the engine making any noise? and so on

It is fuel injected, 5.8L, automatic tranny, does all of this going downhill, on flats and uphill, only really starts this once it has been driven for about 15-20min.

Thisd has been happening for about 5 months now, It is not getting worse. The bronco is jerking not stalling, no engine noise, or transmission noise or rear end noise. just starts jerking throught the listed speeds then carries on. It does this in normal driving or hard driving basically all the time

ok I would replace the throtle positioning sensor

thank you very much!!!!!

no problem sorry it took so long and I apologize for asking numerous questions
Heavychevy

OHrd to answer the question if you don't have all the informnation you need. One last question where can i find the throtle positioning sensor on my 1995 ford 5.8L bronco?

Under hood, center, upper engine area, front of intake manifold, mounted on passenger side of throttle valve assembly

do i need to disconnect the battery when i replace this item? and/ or is there anything else i might need to do to make this go smoothly?

I personally would disconnect battery, just incase, it never hurts. Its pretty simple do it yourself job.

thanks again and have a good night

1995 Ford Bronco Engine   

I WANT TO SWAP OUT A UNDERPOWERED 302 FOR A 351.IS THE FUEL RAIL/INTAKE MANIFOLD/DISTRIBUTOR/COMPUTER COMPATABLE? 1995 FORD BRONCO ALL STOCK.I WOULD LIKE TO KEEP FUEL INJECTION.

Keeping Inj a good idea.Ok Ford arrived with a 351 Windsor by increasing the stroke of the 302.The deck height (head gasket area) is moved up a little. Although the heads are the same, if you know your geometry, as a result of them being higher, they are also slightly further apart.
Consequently the intake is wider and the distributor is slightly longer.Those two parts easily procured at a auto wrecker. differences: Oil pan wider and exhaust manifolds are positioned slightly different. parts should work, comp etc.351w pickups are common at wrecker,
so swap should go smoothly.

WILL I HAVE ANY PROBLEM WITH THE COMPUTER FIRING THE RIGHT INJECTORS WITH THE RIGHT SPARKPLUG?

I have a friend who pulled a V^ from chev and put in a V8. So leave the comp and see what happens, otherwise back to wrecker for comp.
I have a 351 in a car that confuses my friends(Crane cam from 302 and 302 firing order..lol)

FROM WHAT I CAN TELL IN MY RESEARCH IS THAT FORD WENT FROM EFI TO MFI IN 1993. WHAT IS MFI, AND ARE THE BLOCK AND HEADS INTERCHANGABLE.

Block and Heads interchange, MFI is an improved Injection system. Ford Motorsport had a kit to do the Injection updates, but I believe it is no longer avail. I believe there are some mfg on the web that have the pcs. You are going to have to look on the various websites.

1994 Ford Bronco Electrical / Lighting Systems Failing When driving No pattern

WHILE I'M DRIVING ON FREEWAY OR SOMETIMES NOT WHEN I COME OFF FREEWAY OR AM ABOUT TO STOP MY CAR CUTS OUT. SOMETIMES IT DOES IT WHILE I'M DRIVING ON FREEWAY. THE BATTERY GUAGE FLUCTUATES UP AND DOWN THEN WHEN IT CUTS OT THE BATT. GAUGE DROPS TO LIKE 9 VOLTS, THE BATTERY LIGHT COMES ON AND IT CUTS OUT. I HAD A TEST RAN ON IT AND IT CAME WITH NOTHING. PLEAS HELP.

Hi;
Have you checked your charging system. You might also want to check for a loose ground cable at the engine. Also check belt tension.Good Luck Les.

1994 Ford Bronco Drive Train / Driveline Lagging Happens always Always

i recently bought a 1994 ford bronco with the 5.8 351. it has 123000 miles on it, when i accellerate there is a clonk right when you accelerate. thought it was the rearend but what i found was the pinion shaft gears were very worn and the pinion shaft was sloppy so i replaced both but the problem is still there. also when i stop it feels like the rearend is moving back into position and then when i accel. it feels like its moving back to the other position with a clonk again. also when driving down the road at 70 if you let off the gas real fast and then hit the gas again theres a clonk right between the front seats. so checked the motor and trans. mounts none are loose. don't know what to look at next???????

Hello, Consider lubricating the drive shaft yoke splines. If your u-joints are in need of grease, lube them too. The clunk is the drive shaft binding when the shaft needs to change length to accomodate a change in the height/angle of the suspension. The splines are too dry. Often there is a grease zerk to lube the splines without disassembly.

Thoughts?,

Roger

you don't think it could possibly be a delay in the transmission to where when the transmission is up to speed then it is clonking into the driveline, also one more thought i tried doing a brake stand in the garage and there was none of the noise or clonk at all, just when your going down the road that's the only thing that is throwing me off????????

I would want to eliminate drive shaft splines before I'd look at the trans itself. You haven't stated that shifting is rough/hard.

Ford Ranger had so much trouble with drive shaft splines binding in the late '90s that a technical service bulletin (TSB) was issued. I wish it were a recall not a bulletin. If the vehicle was in warranty the entire drive shaft assembly was replaced with one made of alloy metals. Even the diameter of the "new" shaft is larger. Owners who found their warranty expired paid over $500 for the upgrade. Or, they pay to have the splines lubed by hand (no zerk is there) but the problem repeats. It's patience vs. tolerance.

Are the splines on your drive shaft free of burrs and lubed well?

Roger

i haven't looked at the drive line splines for lube but did check the u-joints but i guess it is a place to start looking and plus the trans. does shift fine when going thru the gears. thanks for your help i will check the splines. mike

I'll wait for your findings.

You're welcome,

Roger

1994 Ford Bronco Drive Train / Driveline   

My ford bronco speed sensor went out after bouncing around for a while. I have went to many auto parts places and ended up with a speedometor cable! when is the location of the speed sensor and when can I but one

Your speed sensor will be located on your transfercase/transmission and can be purchased at the ford dealership

1994 Ford Bronco All Part Groups   

when I push the 4x4 switch the light goes on and it sounds like the transfer case is engaging but I don't have the four wheels spinning as if I'm in 4x4.

have someone look while in 4 wheel and move a little is front drive shaft turning if so you have a hub locking problem warren hubs cost about $150 a set

This car has automatic locking hubs, no the front is not turning. It just snowed in NY and I could'nt get out of my spot, I opened my door and looked myself.

then transfer case is not engaging check solonoids on transfer case

1994 Ford Bronco Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

ABS LIGHT COMES ON AT 5 MPH AND STAY ON. REPLACED ALL (3) WHEEL SENSORS, LIGHT STILL COMES ON???

also, I pulled codes; no codes recorded? ------- ?????

Can I drive the vehicle with this condition safely?

Hello, Can you drive the vehicle safely?

Yes, in the event you experience a situation when maximum braking would normally activate anti-lock brake assistance your wheels will insted be prone to sliding. Just as if the vehicle was never equipped with ABS.

You may well have fixed your ABS but I can't be sure. I don't believe you can clear an ABS light without a scanner. Do you have a scanner (not a code reader)? If so, you can verify wheel speed sensor operation.

The ABS does a self test on each ignition cycle when the vehicle begins to roll. This is why you see the ABS light come on at 5 mph.

It may clear codes or reset the ABS light if you try disconnectring the battery for ten minutes and then before you reconnect the battery....hold down the footbrake for one full minute and then release the footbrake. Reconnect the battery.

ALL driveability memory stored in the computer for the engine will have to be "relearned" as you drive the Bronco for up to the next fifty miles. Idle behaviour and shift points may be strange at first as the computer adapts to the new start-up.

Thoughts?,

Roger

1994 Ford Bronco Fuel System   

I cannot get the fuel pump to work on my 1994 ford bronco unless I direct wire to my battery. I ran an engine scan and I get a 542 and 543 error code. I have replaced the pcm, fuel pump relay and associated fuse. If I ground out the fuel pump relay I get power to the inertia switch. Any suggestions ? Also, where is the best place to purchase the braided fuel lines that connect to the fuel rail ? One is seeping.

Thanks, Bill

First things first, do you have spark to the spark plugs?

Also, which engine?

Yes I do have spark, 5.0 liter

Does the pump run if you jumper the relay? If not check at the fuel pump connector to see if you are missing power OR ground.

1994 Ford Bronco Engine   

Have a 94 Bronco 351. Got off the freeway one day, and when stopped at a red light noticed it was idling really rough, alomst like something was out of balance. Pulled into a parking lot, and heard a hell of a vacum leak. Found the plug on the top hole on my PCV valve missing. Bought a new valve and replaced it. For a hot quick second ran like normal, and then after a bit of driving starts the rough idle, and feels like the motors going to fall out at about 45mph. What else could it be?

Hello,

Try resetting the computer by disconnecting the negative battery cable for a couple minutes, press on the brake while disconnected for good measure. This resets the computer (PCM, ECM). Take for a test drive.

If the 'Check Engine' light comes on while the engine is running, forget the previous paragraph and check the diagnostic trouble codes. Leave your email address and I'll send instructions (easy to do).

By the way, does it run rough at all rpms? Hot, cold, or under a load (accelerating, etc) make a difference?

Give me an update either way."

Seems like it does it while warm, but started doing it yesterday, so hasn't really had time to cool down. No check engine light. I will hook up my code reader in a bit, and try to reset computer.

Here's what I see. Seems like there is no loss of power in acceleration, or across the board. Idling in gear with foot on the brake it feels as if something (like flywheel) is out of balance, and shakes the front end slightly. During accerlation, you don't feel it. Higer speed you tend not to notice it (at least I think I have pretty aggressive MT's and it ain't exactly a smooth ride). However; any time it shifts into OD in a moderate speed (40-55) It drives like one of the front tires is completely out of balance with 45mph being the worse feeling. Like I say you tend to notice it less when the motor is under load, and more when the motor isn't working as hard. That seems to me a vacuum leak, but I thought I found it when I noticed the top port on my PCV valve had lost it's plug.

I'll get back to you if I pull any codes. Talk to you soon.
B.A. Phillips

Oh I forgot to tell you when driving at those moderate speeds I mentioned it feels awful, but if I let of the accelerator and just coast it feels fine.

Okay, check to make sure the plug wires are not miss/cross firing.

#4 Cylinder wire melted against the header, and shorting out.

1994 Ford Bronco Engine   

1994 Bronco, engine hesitates under load or no load when pressing on accelorator. Starts and idles fine. I have replaced the following; fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, pcv, distributor, plugs, wires, coil, rotor, cap, MAP, ignition module, TPS and I still have the same symptom. There is no check engine light and no codes after a computer scan. Please help...

Hello,

Have you ruled out vacuum leaks?

I'll assume engine ground is good and there is not a misfire in the plug wires, etc (no change with new ingnition components).

Does it hesitate at lower rpm's? If yes, disconnect and plug the egr valve to make sure it is not spiking open causing the problem.

Yes, checked for vacume leaks and none were found. I disconected EGR. Same issue.

Which engine do you have?

Wiggle the wiring gently to the ignition module and computer, with the engine idling to see if you can recreate the stumble. There is a bulletin on the wiring here that needs to be ruled out.

Also, have you checked the fuel injectors. A simple ohm test may find a bad one (open or shorting).

Wiggle test has been done. The stumble/hesitation only occurs when accelorating in gear or reving engine in park. It is the 5.8 Liter. I have checked the fuel injectors on the left side, right side is difficult because of the upper intake.

Can you test the whole bank and compare the results to the right side?

I'm curious if you unplug the O2 sensor if there is a change?

1993 Ford Bronco All Part Groups Making Noise When accelerating When warm 

Hello,
I have been puzzled by my 1993 Bronco 302 E4OD pinging problem. This vehicle has been well maintained and has 125,000 miles with no unusual engine noises at idle or acceleration with no load and lots of new components EGR valve, EVP sensor, 2-EGR Solenoids, EGO sensor, Idle Air By-Pass valve, all tune up parts, complete performance exhaust system from heads back, new transmission K & N filter, timing is on, doesn't use oil.I have tried various gasolines grades from top name companies, I use 93 octane Sunoco.

Problem:
When I apply light throttle acceleration I can hear a slight pinging, and under medium to hard acceleration it gets worse and sounds the worst when the transmission shifts into each gear, and also there is a very noticeable loss in power when climbing slight and steep grades.

I have had several dealers check the vehicle and it has no codes and knowbody can figure this out.

I have been thinking crankshaft dampener moving or timing chain worn, but maybe it could be Fuel Pressure Regulator, TP sensor, MAP sensor, Air charge sensor........I'm stumped!
Any advise would be helpful at this point...can you help?

Sincerely,

Kevin Hoffman

Kevin,
First we need to break this problem down to find which field it is in. First, disconnect the vacuum hose to the EGR valve, make a test drive and see if it is better. If so, then it is an EGR flow problem, perhaps carbon clogged passages.

If it is the same, remove spark plug number 1 and with a helper set the piston at TDC, (you can feel this with a screwdriver). Then check that the timing marks are on TDC also. If not, rpelace the damper. If ok, set the timing with a timing light on the proper specifications.

If this is OK, try an upper engine cleaner such as GM top engine cleaner. This works best sprayed or poured in the intake until the engine stalls, then leave it overnight, start it in the morning and take it for a hard drive to blow the carbon out. Try high test gas, 93 octane and see if the problem is resolved.

This should point you in a useful direction to find the solution.
Dale

1993 Ford Bronco Drive Train / Driveline   

My 93 Bronco 351W with 198K miles just recently started "leaving the starting gate" very slowly. I accelerate normally, but it initially goes very, very slow. At this point, I have only noticed it significantly in "D". It appears less in reverse and 2nd, but then again, I use those gears much less. I am able to reach normal speeds. I am not sure if it is a fuel problem, although I don't think so. It may be a transmission sensor of some sort. Please help. I'm afraid of a transmission repair bill.

Fluid dark red, brown? Smell a little burnt? A trans shop will usually do a simple diagnosis and test drive for free. The different 'slippage' in different gears does make one think transmission.Fuel problem would be equal in all gears.
A used trans may be an alternative.Either way, if it req. a trans, shop around.
I wish I could give you good news....

The shop did a preliminary diagnostic and said that the vehicle is starting off in 3rd gear. They are going to hook it up to some sensors and let me know more soon. I will let you know what they tell me so you can let me know what to expect.

Cross your fingers! :)

The diagnostic is back. $1200 minimum. It needs a solenoid pack and repair the front seal. There are some other issues with a leaking transmission cooling line and other unrelated items that are not included in the $1200. Does this seem reasonable? It has an E40D transmission.

Yuk! It sounds reasonable as the trans has to come out.The labor is probably half the estemate. The newer overdrive transmissions use much more electronics and tighter clearances than the old. When the repair done think about regular transmission fluid changes.See if you can negotiate the other minor repairs into the $1200.Never assume that $1200+ is a firm price.If they want your business, they might fix the leaking line etc, for free.

The scanner provided the following codes: 637 (Trans oil temp signal hi - ckt open; 621 (shift solenoid 1 ckt (ss1)); 629 (torque converter clutch ckt); and 626 (coast cluth solenoid ckt. park/neutral switch tests good). Any further thoughts?

I'd be curios why all the solenoids quit. Commonly just one goes. You ight want to call the shop back and ask why.It would be nice not to have it happen again.

Would you call me [redacted] ) or let me call you to discuss this over the phone? It might be a little more productive that way. Thanks, Edward

I am a loooong ways away in Western Canada. That could get expensive.What else do you need to know?

I have free long distance to Canada on my cell phone. Don't worry about that.

So far, I have found the solenoid pack for $175. I'm going to buy that and a harnass today. I have a mechanic who will do it for much cheaper. That should fix the problem.

If you are reasonaby adept with tools you might want to attempt it yourself.Let me know how it goes.
The clearances in newer trans are much smaller, and infrequent oil changes tend to get things gummed up and coated with a film similar to varnish.The valve then sticks....the solenoid then burns out?

1993 Ford Bronco Engine   

My oil pressure dropped to nothing while I was on my way home from the park. I stopped and checked the oil. It was fine. The engine was ticking badly. I let the truck sit and cool. I re-started it and the pressure was fine and the tick was gone. I drove the truck a couple of months. I drove the truck to my brother's house and on the way, the oil pressure dropped to nothing again and the ticking started again. I pulled the truck over and the pressure came back up. I got back on the road and the pressure dropped again. I noticed when I released the gas pedal the pressure came back up. Hit the gas and it drops to nothing again. I replaced the oil pump and oil filter and still same trouble. It only does it after it is warmed up well. I don't know what steps to take next.

Hi, Are you satisfied your oil pressure guage is accurate? Since the ticking noise is present when the pressure is zero it sounds like it is all right.

Are the oil drainbacks in the engine heads open? If oil is pooling inside the valve covers the pump will starve.

The oil pump is a known good one, the filter is new....how worn are the cam and main bearings? When wear is advanced enough pressure suffers because oil spills over the sides of the bearings...the path of least resistance.

Consider removing the oil pan and mic the bearings, look and see if a cam bearing has slipped position.

Roger

My Bronco has 180,000 miles on it. I was just hoping it was something simpler than a bearing or just too much wear on the engine.

To remove the oil pan, I had to remove the intake manifold, disconnect the exhaust, and raise the engine from it's mounts. I was still not able to raise the engine high enough to remove the oil pan completely. I had to work in the oil pan to remove the oil pump, so I didn't have much room to work or see, even.

You covered the simpler tasks when you replaced the oil pump.

The oil pressure regulator is in the oil pump casing so that is new also.

I can't think of a way to cheat. The ticking noise when the pressure reads zero tells us there is indeed a pressure issue.

Did you see any wear on the oil pump intermediate driveshaft?

It may well be time to consider overhaul or replacement of the engine before it quits completely.

Roger

I didn't see any wear on the oil pump driveshaft.

You may want to release the question for others to provide their input.

My position is to pull the engine.

Roger

Did you replace the pick-up screen? Many consider this impossible to clean so it is best replaced. If you replaced this Roger has your covered.

I didn't. I'll have to tear back into it and try the screen.

I wish you the best. Let us know how you make out.

Please be safe when you are working under the engine. Take extra precautions.

Thank you Technicians! I bought a used truck and one day I'll replace the screen!

1993 Ford Bronco Ignition System   

I had a hard time starting my Bronco for a little while, but now when I turn the key, I just get a single "click" then nothing. Is this a problem with the starter?

Hello, Have you made sure that the battery cable connections are clean and tight?

How many volts does the battery have...can you check it with a multi-meter?

Will it jump start? If all of the above is Okay you may have a starter problem, but I'd want to test the battery first to see if it will pass a load test.

Roger

1993 Ford Bronco Engine   

My Bronco seems to drive fine at initial start-up but after about 30 min (or when hot) it has extreme sluggishness, seems to "miss", the rpms become erradic and jump around by 300 or so. Also, it seems to want to shift into higher gears when it shouldn't. For example, when it is having this problems and I floor it or give it much more accel pedal, it will start-up to gain rpms and then shift into a higher gear. I've pulled mem codes and current codes, but no indication of any sensor problems and Im not sure what sensor(s) to start replacing.

Hello,

Ignition misfire can cause this. Check the plug wires, plugs, and coil. Look for carbon tracking on the coil tower. Also check the spark plug wires for crossfiring.

Any smoke from the exhaust or raw gas smell when the problem is present?

I've noticed a change in smell from the exhaust. At first I figured an O2 sensor was fried and it was injecting too much fuel into mixture. Could this be it and its just not triguring a code?

hello?

Unplug the 02 sensor, any change in how the engine runs? Note, this should set a code.

Remember, misfiring plugs wires will cause unburnt fuel to enter the exhaust too.

Also make sure the fuel pressure regulator defective allowing gasoline to pass throught the vacuuum hose- Check cold, if it is leaking gas may pour out the regulator's vacuum port (use caution!).

Ok thanks I will check. What is best way to check plugs firing correctly?

In darkness you will be able to see the misfire. The engine must be running so you need to Use Extreme Caution Around Moving Engine Parts! Also remove and inspect the plugs (need to be clean, let me know if there are black sooty deposits or a blistering white appearance). Let me know if it is misfiring because of the plug wires, plugs, or coil.

1992 Ford Bronco Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction  

4x4 systems touch drive press the button lights do not come on indicating 4x4 is engaged nothing happens

Hello, Please tell me does the 4X4 feature work but there is no indication (light) it is engaged, or is the 4X4 feature not even working at all?

Have you already looked at fuses that power the switches involved? Have you looked at the transfer case to see if a connector is unplugged or damaged? Any evidence of wiring damage from debris or even a rodent?

I'll try to help,

Roger

Hello, Can you tell me if you are having problems with the All-Parts Web Site? This question has been open quite awile. Please update or close it.

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, Please update here. Still need help?

Roger

Hi, will you please update the status of your question? Still need help?

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, What is happening here, please?

Please advise,

Roger

1992 Ford Bronco Engine Malfunction Happens always When warm 

Hey guys- really appreciate your time. I do the same on insurance stuff, spread the knowledge! 92 motor in an 87 frame, EFI, Eddie Bauer edition. Trying to trouble shoot a reving problem. For one- Idle keeps going up & down on it's own, not much but enough to say something isn't right. Replaced the throttle position sensor (you go girl!). Worked ok for a month. Now, when the engine gets warm, it goes to a very high rev state at idle- like 2500. And it's still not maintaining a steady idle, grr. Replaced the EGR & coil. 92 motor in an 87 frame, one step down from the biggest motor in it, 4wd w/lockouts. Think maybe the throttle sensor is cracked and/or not properly positioned? Or anything else you can suggest that would cause a slight up down in rev to not carry a steady idle. Oil pressure also likes to run on the low side, will check the oil pump pickup screen. It also has a transmission kickback thing- if you let up off the accelerator at 40mph -60 mph or so, the engine/trans sort of kicks back, like it goes down a gear in the trans before it really needs to. Hard to explain. Appreciate any advise pertaining to similiar bronco issues, luv2lookatstars@yahoo.com
And thanks again for your time. :) Denise

Check the idle speed motor.

You work online? What kind of information do you provide??

Hi;
Might want to try this. It sounds like an Idle air control motor problem. Go get a can of throttle body cleaner. Start the engine and let get to operating temp. While reving the engine up spray the cleaner into the throttle body until you have used up the whole can. Use a continuos swirling motion .
After all done disconnect your IAC motor and set your base idle. Turn the throttle plate adjusting screw until it just runs. Shut off, Disconnect the battery for five minutes. reconnect connector at IAC. Reconnect battery start engine and put in reverse and hold brake for five minutes. The idle will fluxuate until it finds a base idle. GOOD LUCK LES>

1992 Ford Bronco Drive Train / Driveline Slipping When shifting Always

only when shifting into reverse, there is noticable delay between the shift lever being moved, and the truck dropping into gear. Could be considered "slamming" into gear, as the truck jumps pretty hard going into gear. Somewhat better when warm/hot, only to reappear when cold. No problem in any of the forward gears, only reverse. 351 FI with 3 speed w/ electronic OD tranny. Ideas?

I also have a 92 F150 and found my tranny was doing exactly the same thing. A filter change and new fluid and things were as good as new. Total cost was less than 50.00 and i was able to do the repair without even jacking the truck up. Al

I had a filter and fluid change, and it did not fix the problem. What's next?

So much for the easy stuff. I would next look to the Modulator valve. Disconnect it and see if the tranny reacts the same. If it does look for a broken or loose wires that connect into the Mod Valve. We can go from there. Al

will give the mod valve a try, please stand by, and I will let you know what happens. If it isn't the mod valve, what could it be? The fluid has a slight burnt smell now. I didn't detect the smell when the fluid was changed last, but this has been going on for a couple months, and not getting better on it's own. Thanks

OK, changed the fluid and filter, and made sure the driveline was tight - found a loose bolt at the drive shaft connection to the rear differential - neither helps at all. Still slams hard after hesitation when shifting into reverse. What I need to know is: What are the three most likely causes for this, and in what order should they be checked, both easiest to fix and least expensive first. I would think a ford technical rep would know what might cause this. A complete transmission overhaul to out of the question, as it will cost half the value of the truck. Thanks

Did you get a chance to also verify how tight the universal joints to the drive shaft were?? If they are really sloppy you will know it (there might be a very small amount of play) If not the problem then I recommend releasing the question because this is not as easy as it sounded in the beginning. Good luck.. let me know. AL

Hi;
The transmiision you are talking about is a A4LD. This trans had a bad habit of the one way clutch tearing up the trans casing. The only way to fix it is have the trans overhaul. Check around and make sure the shop you deal with has experience at this trans. Or you can go the other route and get a used trans out of a salvage yard. Good Luck Les.

How do you verify what trans it is? I just pulled a old hevy boat over 100 miles this week end, and every thing was fine except the reverse slam problem, which is much better after the fluid change and drive time. What makes you think this transmission needs a complete overhaul? How about some diagnostics here? Are you a transmission salesmen or what?

Hi;
I worked for ford motor company for 6 years. I have found this type trans to bad a bad history. You might want to adjust the tv cable and see if it helps it any. Good Luck Les.

Visit your local ford service department and have them give you a copy of a service bulletin that addresses your problem.

TSB number 95137 dated jul/95

1992 Ford Bronco Engine   

High idle problem. If you unplug the idle control it settels down. I have replaced the control. cleaned the throttle body.Replaced the computer. All with no effect.

Traditionally a high idle is a vacuum leak, not unusual for that era Ford. Also check the PCV system, as they are problematic.

1992 Ford Bronco All Part Groups   

I recently bought a 1992 Ford bronco, drives well, however push button four wheel drive is not engaging. When I hit the four wheel drive I can feel something shift and the light turns on, but front wheels do not engage

First see if it has manual hubs an that they are enguaging. Then crawl under and determine if the front driveshaft is ok. Since you just bought it, there might have been a problem with driveshaft ( common). Jack up all four corners of Bronco and support with all four wheels off ground, to check operation of all 4wd parts.That will help determine if there is a transfer case problem, a front differential problem or a front hub issue. Most shops should offer this as a free inspection on their hoist.

1992 Ford Bronco Fuel System   

The problem seems to occur when it is wet, the bronco starts running bad, the check engine light comes on and eventully it dies, when you turn the key on the fuel pumps runs continuously and engine will not start. When i connect my code reader it will not pul any codes, eventully you hear the fuel pump rely stat clicking and everthing goes back to normal, and does not throw any codes!!!! HELP!!!

Hello, What engine please?

Roger

5.0

Is your EEC Module mounted below the brake fluid reservoir? Does it get wet? If this condition is present when in wet weather I would look at the connectors to see if the connectors have their seals in place.

Do you find moisture evidence in the EEC connectors?

Roger

EEC Module plug is located low on the firewall driveres side, the EEC Module is inside under the drivers left kick panel.
I have not inspected the plug for moisture or the plug seals.

Thank you, does the vehicle have any sort of water leak that could get on the EEC? Perhaps a windshield or body leak?

I would expect the EEC would be mounted with connectors downward to avoid water getting in at all. Still it would good to rule out moisture in the connectors.

Roger

The ECC plug is mounted the the Horizontal postion, I will remove the kick panel and plug and check for moisture. Thanks for your help, Ill get back to you and tell you what I found.

All right. We'll go from there.

Roger

Well I took the bolt out of the ECC plug, it was kinda loose. I did not see anything definitive under the plug or under the kick panel on the ECM itself, I cleaned the plug with electra-clean and put some fresh Dielectric grease and reassembled. It just happens to be raining cats and dogs here,so I went for a drive, went through every mud puddle and standing water I could find, no problems, maybe we found something, I guess time will tell, Thanks for your help!
Brennan

Good job! Ready to close the question? If so, please click on OK to finish up. If not, please advise.

I thank you,

Roger

1991 Ford Bronco Drive Train / Driveline   

I have locking hubs on my truck, when i put my truck in 4x4 i have the push bar on the dash when in 4x4 the truck will run fine for a while, then all of a sudden it will stop going i have to pull over and take the truck out of 4x4 to start moving again, can you help with this problem.

When the truck stops going, does the engine still run fine but the transmission slips/disengages? Or, does it seem something is binding in the 4x4 that is releived by taking it out of 4x4?

The engine runs fine the transmission disengages, and
when I step on the gas the engine just revs up, I have
to disengage the 4x4 to get the transmission to start
going again, I have manual locking hubs on the truck.

Unfortunately the transmission is failing under hight load demands which is not good. You can confirm proper fluid level / condition, but beyond this a replacement transmission is likely needed.

Thank You

1991 Ford Bronco Engine   

I removed the cataletic converter ran a second pipe and pluged the tube that went to the cataletic converter now it sounds like a bee and runs a little rough

Sounds like a bee? Perhaps the tube you plugged is leaking?

Does it only run rough at idle or all speeds? I'm not sure how familiar you are with engines, etc but the engine will "sound" a little rough with the catalytic converter removed because the sound is not muffled as much.

It runs rough when driving and at idle. I have a 1991 Ford Bronco Silver Anniversary Addition with a fuel injected 302, automatic. The tube that I pluged, was originally atatched to the catalytic converter, now removed. Looks like it atatches togos to a air control valve then to a air supply pump then to a coffie can with a vent tube.

Yeah, that won't cause the symtoms you have but a leak can be loud.

Does the check engine light come on at anytime while the engine is running? If you need instructions for testing 'check engine' light computer codes leave your email address and I'll send them.

The plug wires may be misfiring. Look at them while the engine is running in darkness (USE EXTREME CAUTION AROUND MOVING ENGINE PARTS) for the appearance of stray spark.

1991 Ford Bronco Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have a1991 Ford Bronco.The tailgate glass drve motor will not work. i have power on one wire but not the other one that shows it comes through a limit swich on electrical diagram. I am not sure where limit switch is located.

Should be easy to find.The wires at the limit switch are as follows.
Red-Yellow from motor to limit switch
Tan-Black from main switch to limit switch
Yellow-Red from main switch to motor
(note wire primary color first-tracer second)
It is a simple matter of following the wires to the switch.Sometimes on early Bronco's the switch is removed/bypassed.
Might not be a good idea.
Repair Synopsis;
"...Be aware that: The tailgate latch switch on the driver's side seems to be a common problem, check it early. It keeps the window from being moved when the tailgate is open, & if not latched right, it'll keep the window from working at all. Try pushing the driver's side of the tailgate in while holding the button or key switch in the up or down position. If that makes it work, check out Steve83's How to align a Bronco Tailgate linked below. Ground for the motor connects up front, & at rest runs from there through both switches & both wires to the motor. When either switch is operated, 1 side's ground is disconnected & replaced by hot at that switch. Ground for the motor is not connected to it's case, but supplied through the wires. There are 2 seperate power sources & 2 fuses/circuit breakers for positive. 1 for each switch. The same 2 wires are used throughout for both up & down (Polarity is reversed by the switches). When the tailgate is open, you have to close the driver's side latch for the window to operate. Remember to open it before closing the tailgate. Testing: Does it make any noise at all? Like the motor's turning, but the window doesn't move? If so, there are torque pins in the motor's drive gear that commonly break & aren't too bad to replace. If it makes no noise, then it's probably in the electrical system. Fireguy50's wiring diagram is linked.... To test the electrical system, remove the access panel from inside the tailgate. Run test wires from the battery directly to the window motor connector (Yellow & red wires coming right out of the motor) to confirm that the motor works. To lower the window, it should be positive to red, & negative to yellow. Be ready for the window to move, keep hands & wires clear. Make all the connections but 1, then connect & disconnect the last wire quickly to see if it tries to go the right way. If it tries to go the wrong way, reverse the wires (This also makes it so that you can lower the window & get the tailgate open to continue testing). A- If it runs & the window moves when wired directly to the battery, perform the following tests: A.1- With both switches at rest & the latch switch closed, connect a tester between the positive test wire from the battery & each wire from the tailgate loom at the connector for the motor. Both should read 12v. If they do the ground is good. If they don't, refer to Fireguy50's wiring diagram linked above to trace it down, or tell us what you find. A.2- With the latch switch closed, connect the tester between the negative test wire from the battery & each wire from the loom at the connector for the motor. The red wire should read 12v when either switch is in the down position, the yellow wire should read 12v when either switch is in the up position. A.3- If everything tests ok, but it still doesn't run, there's a couple more possible causes to check: -Sometimes the connector for the tailgate motor will test ok, but not make contact when plugged in. You might try backprobing the motor side wires with the plug connected. On mine I removed it & soldered the connections. -It's possible for a damaged wire to carry enough load to show 12v on a tester, but not enough to operate the motor. Look for worn areas, especially in the loom between the body & the tailgate. B- If it runs but doesn't move when wired directly to the battery, in addition to your electrical problem, the torque pins in the drive gear are probably broken too. Run the electrical tests in section "A" above, & see the torque pin, If it doesn't run at all when wired directly to the battery, it sounds like it's time for a new motor. On my truck there were multiple bad connections, so it was hard to isolate the problem. Someone before me used a ton of crimp connectors . Basically I ended up removing them & soldering all the connections, & eliminating the corroded plug to the motor..."

1990 Ford Bronco Windows / Glass Malfunction Happens always Always

Dear All Parts,

I purchased my Ford Bronco XLT 5.0 V8 last night. My husband is furious. The rear tailgate window is now stuck in the down position, as is the passenger side window. There is a humming sounds in the tailgate; the motor WANTS to move...but nothing. The passenger side window...nothing happens at all. I purchased a Chilton's manual, but it tells nothing about how to get the door panels off so I can check the window lift motors. Help...yes, I'm a woman.

Sincerely,
Wendy Marcinkiewicz

Wendy, Congrats on the new truck, I hope you got a good deal. If you purchased the truck from a private dealer you now own all the problems that come with it, if from a dealership then you might be able to get them to do some work. Lets assume that you have to make the repairs.
First the passenger window. To remove the inner door skin you will need a philips screwdriver. Remove all the screws. Then you will have to take a large flat tip screwdriver and you will have to slip that between the door skin and the metal part of the door frame and wedge them apart. You will hear a snapping noise as they seperate. Once they seperate you will be looking at a plastic sheet. The plastic sheet is a noise dampner. Peel the plastic from the door. Remove the wires to the window motor. With a voltage meter verify that you have 12 volts to the window motor. The voltage will pulse in both directions depending on if you are attempting to raise or lower the window. Also check inside the door for loose parts. If you have power to the motor and the window will not go up and down then the motor assembly or the window regulator is in need of repair and most general repair shops can accomplish this. I can provide detail directions on how to do this if you can get to this point in troubleshooting.
The rear window repair is very similar and troubleshooting is almost identical. Let me know if this helps. Good Luck. AL

Thanks SO MUCH Al!!!..I've got to try this...it's raining here and these windows can't stay taped until the garages open on Monday...thank GOODNESS for Pep Boys and Auto Barn...they're open on Sundays...LOL...I hope this works!!!!

1990 Ford Bronco Engine Stalling When idling Always

I have changed the spark plugs,cap,rotor,iac,engine coolent temp sentor.the #2 plug is wet from fuel but all the plugs are geting fire. i did compression test on both sides and it was 150 except the #2 was 120. can someone help me ? thanks Michael

The lower compression can be caused by gas washing oil out of the piston rings.

You didn't say which engine you had but it should have a fuel injector for every cylinder (Multi Port or MPI).
The injector may be stuck open and leaking. There are a couple ways to check, take your pick.

1. Install a fuel pressure gauge and turn on key until pressure builds up. Pinch off the return line. If pressure steadily drops off the injector is leaking.

2. You can swap the number 2 injector (with another injector, any injector that is conveniant) and see if the problem moves to the new cylinder

Some people will pull the injectors and watch them to see if they leak. I can't recommend this because of the risk of fire.

A more remote possibility is the power to the injector. The computer provides an on off ground to 'fire' the injector. If the injector ground wire is shorted to ground the injector will run continuously with key on. You can determine this by listening to the injector to see if it runs constantly.

Another problem with fords was the fuel pressure regulator leaking. Pull the vacuum hose off the regulator and see if it's wet with gas. If it is replace the regulator (this specifally applies if the vacuum hose is located near the #2 port on the intake manifold)"

could timing gears or bad cam shaft

Squirt some oil in the #2 cylinder. Recheck compression. If compression increases much the problem is worn rings (or likely in your case the gas has washed the oil out of the rings).

The timing gears would not affect just one cylinder. Camshaft could effect one cylinder.

How does the engine run? Is it fine outside of one cylinder missing? How many miles on engine?

1990 Ford Bronco Fuel System Making Noise When stopped Always

I have a 1990 Ford Bronco and when I turn off the enginge my Fuel Pump relay switch is staying engaged. I need a photo of where it is located. Thank you.

Hello, What engine do you have, please? Full size Bronco?

The fuel pump relay should be located under a shield at the air cleaner support bracket.

I couldn't find a picture but if I knew what engine you have I could tell you the colors of the wires on the relay connector.

Please advise,

Roger

Will you please update the status of this question?

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, I'm still hoping to hear from you. Have you read my previous message?

Thanks,

Roger

1990 Ford Bronco Windows / Glass Malfunction  

1990 Ford Bronco rear window does not go down by using Tailgate Key Switch; window operates normally from the dash mounted switch. I have replaced Tailgate Wiring Harness (second time *) and electrically jumped (bypassed) the Tailgate Latch Switch. The down operation fails with both the key and by physically pressing with the finger, the normal audible click is heard when the switch is depressed. (* The first time I replaced the harness was 2 weeks ago, the window operated for a short time in both directions).

O.K.,I'm having a slight problem understanding this.You say glass is fully operational from dash but not at gate.You bypassed power and got run up but not down.Was this bypass conducted directly to the motor or at the actuator?By wiring harness,do you mean the actual wires or the actuator itself?If the glass is operating from the dash in a correct manner,then I would have to rule the motor and regulator close to not being my objective.If your bypass was not direct to the motor,try this.If the glass operates when alternating power direct to the motor,then I would have to say the actuator is your problem.In the 14yrs I spent with a Ford dealership,this was one of the most common causes of the problem you are describing.
Good Luck,
Paul

Paul,
I solved my problem. The cause was actually the tailgate window’s “Dash Mounted Switch” even though the problem seemed isolated to the Tailgate Key Switch not causing the window to down. I found a better wiring schematic (for circuit 405) on the internet than the one I had. Apparently what happens when using the Key Switch, the return electrical path to Ground flows through the wiring harness and then through the dash mounted switch (some engineer got paid way too much money to come up with this circuit). I jumped the wire return path wire to ground then the tailgate key switch worked perfectly. After the dash mounted switch, the up and down circuits to ground are combined, therefore it must be the dash switch. I ordered a new switch from the Jeff’s Bronco Graveyard, I’ll update you next week as to my success although I am 95% sure. http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=1664
http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5035&hl=

Is this site secure to add a personal e-mail address?

Yes the dash and gate actuator share a common ground.You did some good research to come up with your apparent solve.Do let me know of the outcome.As far as the e-mail,thats up to you.I have a spam seperater so when I submit my address to some sites,I dont get a bunch of garbage unrelated to what I was seeking in the first place.
Good Luck,
Paul

1990 Ford Bronco Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When shifting Always

auto. transmission won't shift to high and overdrive

Just out curiosety,do the interior lights and radio function properly?Does' this have the button at the end of the shift lever for manual off and on of overdrive?The reason I ask is because in my years at a Ford delearship,I used to pull the fuse to the dome lights to keep from draing the battery while working inside the passinger compartment.This fuse also powers the radio and a transmission shift sensor.I've also found many atime when the switch at the lever may light,but the sigal is not being sent.Both are easy fixes.If it isn't in either of these you may want to take it down to a trusted transmission shop before any serious damage may occur.It could be a modulator of a shift sensor gone bad and detecting it now could save you a tranny overhaul.I too was having a simular problem with my '97 F150.All the above proved and tested good.After draing the tranny "and"torque converter of fluids and changing the filter,by refilling with the Mercon fluid required per specs,my problem was solved within 50 miles of driving.I got this bit of info from a personal friend who builds nothing but Ford trasmissions not only for road and work duty uses,but also for offroad and drag racing.You may check with a local chain store type facilty(AAmco etc.)Some offer the check for free.
Good Luck,
Paul

1990 Ford Bronco Engine Malfunction When idling No pattern

my check engine light comes on at idle and the engine will shut off. I can raise the RPMs and the light will go off. Also when driving if i let off the gas and the RPMs drop the engine will cut out. It is not constant, it started about a week ago and my mechanic cant get to it yet.

The most likely causes are the idle speed motor or throttle position sensor (TPS). Do you wish to diagnose and repair the problem yourself, or would you simply like to patch the problem until your mechanic is available?

If you wish to diagnose the problem yourself, start by checking diagnostic codes. For instructions visit the following site to access a repair guide. Look under the 'Emissions' section of the repair guide for intstructions on accessing diagnostic codes. Let me know which codes you find. -This information assumes the check engine light comes on before the engine stalls.

I'm sorry, I forgot to leave the link to a repair guide. Simply copy and paste the following link into your address bar-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

1990 Ford Bronco Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

Battery is being drained by the electrical system. Found the two wires cuasing the problem but don't know where they go.They are from the main wire harness going to the starter rely. 4 to 1 fuse link, but only two of the wires are draing the system. One is Black/yellow the other is yellow. hey have to due with the lights, instrument cluster,radio and power door locks. Please help.

need an answer as soon as possible, please

Hello, Do you have a high impediance digital multimeter with the ability to measure amps dc??

We need to connect it in series with the negative battery cable and the battery. Set the meter on the 10 amp fused capability to see how many amps are measured. A parasitic drain should not exceed 35 miliamps. DO NOT set the meter on volts dc. The drain is identified in amps not volts.

Remove fuses from the fuse panel one at a time until the drain falls within specs.

Find out what components are protected by the last fuse you pulled that stopped the drain on the battery.

Plug the fuse back in so the drain is back and start disconnecting components on the fused circuit until you find the one causing the drain. Repair/replace as needed.

Remove the multimeter, reconnect the battery and you should be finished.

Questions?,

Roger

I'm not that knownledgeable with a volt meter. I do have a good one. I need it more simplied when it comes to the amp stuff.

I'm not showing any amps being drawn from the negitive side of the battery post or terminal.

To connect the meter in series you would disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.

The positive test lead goes to the cable end and the negative test lead goes to the negative post on the battery.

The amp meter must have the capability to measure miliamps. Does yours?

An acceptable reading of parasitic drain on the meter would read 0.035 amps.

Roger

thank you, the meter does read miliamps. I did as requested, but after replacing two condensors in the fuse box, it doesn't seem to be draining. I'll check again tomorrow. I'also replaced the fuseable links on those two lines. We'll see how things go.

Bill

The fusible links supply power and unless they have burned they are not part of the problem.

Did you use fusible link wire in your repair?

What is it you refer to as condensers in the fuse box? Would that be circuit breakers?

What was the parasitic drain reading measured?

Roger

Yes, new fuse link was used. Replace because of worn condition.

Yes, they where curcuit breakers not condensors. Thank you.

I got a reading of 1.97 amps, so pulled fuse by fuse again, and found the acc. lighting/radio was the problem. Pulled radio and nothing. Pulled hood and door switches, and nothing. Pulled dome nothing, but then I found a wire attached to the dome light, plus two others. Checked and all three where hot and one was grounding. Sealed the ends and no more drain.

Thanks for your help with the tracking and on the multimeter readings. Problem fixed

Great job! Now you can guide others from your experience here.

All Parts will not pay me my portion of the fee you posted until you accept my answer. Will you please click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button? That's all I need.

Thank you and try us again,

Roger

1990 Ford Bronco Fuel System Malfunction When driving No pattern

The problem is that the engine will stall and not start again for a period of time.
There seems to be no pattern.
I can usually hear the fuel pump spin up when the ignition is turned on, but when it is having one of these "episodes" I don't hear it.
I replaced the fuel relay and in tank fuel pump it was ok for a few months..but now it's doing it again.
My local shop is frustrated as they cannot diagnose when it is not acting up....and sure as heck when it is with them it does fine.
I love my old truck and would hate to put it down but if I have to push it in traffic one more time i'll shoot it :o)
Thx

I would check the ground wire for the pump, and when it does not start/run try supplying 12v and ground, right at the pump, or as near as possible to it,
This will ensure that the pump really is good.
Just because it is new does not mean it is good, thats why they have warrantys.
Also a bad ground or connector plug is possible, as it is 17 years old....and has some corrosion....

1990 Ford Bronco Drive Train / Driveline   

can you swap a automatic trany to a manual?

Hello, The best resource for interchange possibilities is a salvage yard. They have a book that guides them on what will swap so they know what to sell a buyer.

2 or 4wd might factor and to control cost it would really be great if you could buy a donor vehicle for brackets, clutch linkage and all the support parts for the change over.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

Do you need something else on this question? If not please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

1990 Ford Bronco Electrical / Lighting Systems   

i have a 1990 ford bronco with a 302 motor. the battery dies over night, i think it has some thing to do with the 4x4 electrical because the 4x4 and low range indcater light stays on with the ignition off.i dissconnected the the the push butten and switch and the transfer case motor and the light is still on

The first thing I would do is remove a battery cable and put a test light across the battery terminal and cable end.If there is a parasitic loss, the light should light up.I then remove fuses one at a time, to determine the circuit at fault. If the light goes out, that is the circuit. If it is the 4x4 electrical, I would suspect the switch or wiring at the switch,
Haynes Auto Manuals have good wiring diagrams that are easy to read and cost $15

1990 Ford Bronco Fuel System   

1990 full size Bronco 302 Engine starts but won't fast idle or idle when warm. Engine is running rich. Check engine light is on. Fuel pump, fuel filter, IAC, MAP sensor, were replced with virtually no change.

You will need to check throuble codes to find why the check engine light is on. If you need instructions on pulling the codes let me know.

The TPS (throttle position sensor) and fuel pressure regulator (pull vacuum hose and check for the presence of raw fuel) are common failure (as well as IAC which you replaced).

An egr valve that is stuck open can also cause your problem. Temporarily block the passageway into the intake. Improvement will be immediate if this is the problem.

Douglas,

Thanks for your quick response.

What triggered this problem originally was that the fuel pump quit. When I replaced the pump and filter this problem with no fast or regular idle started. If the pressure relief valve was went bad because of the new fuel pump would this prevent the engine from having a fast idle if running way too rich. Would this also trigger the "chech engine" light to come on.

I would like to start here if that makes the most sense.

Also since there is now no real idle (it attemps to idle at about 350 RPM is there any one sensor that controls the idle rates. You mentioned the TPS for example (this was changed 8,000 miles ago).

One mechanic suggested the processor is bad. Does that make sense? He definately did not have your range of expertise you have however.

In any event I would like to try the pressure regulator and check the EGR first and based on your comments on the processor, if this fails I would like your help with pulling the codes.

Thanks again, your help has been great!

Rod

The processor (computer, ecm, control module, etc) is certainly possible, but not at the top of my list.

We should also not rule out a mechanical problem such as valve timing off a tooth.

Does the engine run okay at higher rpm's or highway speed?

1990 Ford Bronco Heating / Cooling System   

Re: 190 Ford Bronco 302

Intermittently when I start the vehicle and switch the heat/AC control to defrost, or to floor/defrost or floor nothing happens. The fan motor works in all speeds, however it seems as if the motor is being prevented from blowing air innto the passenger compartment, as if a flap is closed. times it works perfectly and you can hear a flap change the direction of the air flow from floor to defrost. Can you advise as to what to fix.

Thanks.

Phil

That would be a problem with your blend air door either binding or being stuck closed at times.
You may want to try knocking on the side or bottom of the vent housing near the blower and then the controls that are visible outside of the chamber.
You may need to take the chamber down and physically move the actuator arms also check the vacume hoses that they are not dry rotted or cracked or just loose from age.

1990 Ford Bronco Engine   

90 FORD BRONCO 4X4 5.8 WINDSOR WITH AUTO TRANSMISSION THE ENGINE IDLE DROPS TO ABOUT 3 - 4 THOUSAND RPM THEN GOES BACK TO NORMAL AFTER A COUPLE OF SECONDS AND EVEN STALLS OUT SOMETIMES IN PARK AND WHILE IN GEAR WITH BRAKES ON AT A STOP IF YOU GIVE THE ENGINE GAS IT RESPOND SOMETIME WITH A LITTLE HESTATION WITH THE RPM LOSS SOMETIMES THE OIL PRESSURE DROPS TO NOTHING ACCORDING TO THE GUAGE WHEN FIRST DRIVIN THEN COMING TO A STOP ENGINE USUALLY STALLS THIS OCCURS USUALLY ABOUT EVERY 30 SECONDS HOWEVER RANDOMLY AT MOST TIMES WHILE JUST SITTING BUT ALMOST ALL THE TIME WHILE DRIVING THEN COMING TO A STOP

When you said "IDLE DROPS TO ABOUT 3 - 4 THOUSAND RPM", I am taking that to mean 3-400RPM from the normal 600 idle speed. There are quite a few different things that can cause this problem, but I would first suspect the idle speed control valve. They have a habit of sticking shut at times.

I suggest:

1) See if the oil pressure is sufficient at times of normal idle, or if it always low. If it is low at normal idle, you may have a bad oil pump, or worn engine bearings.

2) Clean throttle body and idle speed control valve as possible with carburetor cleaner.

3) If a cleaning did not help, either have the computer scanned for codes, or replace the idle control valve.

Hope this helps.

1990 Ford Bronco Engine   

I'm having a engine "chugging" problem. I have a 1990 Ford 5.0L V8 Bronco. The engine and the transmission were both recently changed/remanufactured (they both have about 25,000K on them) and my problem still exists. With the engine warm and driving down the road at a good speed, if you let off the gas and then immediately step on it again, the engine feels like it wants to come out of the bottom of the truck. There is no acceleration at all while it chuggs for about 5-10 seconds, then it clears up and carries on like nothing has happened (this whole time no warning lights or anything turns on). I have changed basicly everything on the engine but the injectors and a few other main components. Any advice would be helpful...

Have you tested the gas for water content?
Occasionally when the MAP sensor is starting to be a problem, it does what you are describing. If the symptoms get progessively worse, as my '90 did ( with no corresponding 'check engine' light).
My Ford did what yours did, until the symptoms started to appear more often and eventually hardly ran.
I changed the MAP sensor and the problems went away. The MAP sensor is located on the firewall, pass side. Has one vac. hose going to it and a plug with 3 wires.

I have checked the gas for contaminates so there is no issue there. This problem does get progessively worse the longer you drive it. Actually, if you let it sit for about a week and then get in it again, it will run perfect for a few days before the chugging starts. Then once it starts it just keeps getting worse until you stop again. I have also been having some electrical issues recently. Do you think the two could be connected or is it more of a vacuum thing making the chugging? I will look into the MAP sensor tomorrow and see if that will maybe be the big fix. Thanks.

Elec issues are certainly something to be considered, as ignitions and computers are quite demanding as to a steady voltage.

1990 Ford Bronco Engine   

I have a 90 ford bronco 5.8 4wd and cant figure out why i am having acceleration issues. Ive replaced fuel pump, press reg, spark plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter, almost every sensor, and no real improvement. new alt, battery, oil change, trans oil. Is my fuel injectors bad possibly. thats really the only thing i can come up with. it just seems very weak for a 5.8.

Several things come to mind are a slipping auto trans or a clutch, but a common problem (more likely) is a partially plugged catalictic converter.

I'll take a look, but the cats are fairly new, I would say within 4 years. The one thing i didn't mention is the hesitation that accompanies the weak acceleration. How can I check for a plugged converter...when i had the exhaust off to put new gaskets in I test drove to see a difference in performance...figured if they were plugged that I would notice a change(lack of restriction) but no luck. Im going to test my injectors as well to see if all of them are functioning...it just seems like not all cylinders are firing...hesitates at idle. Thanks for any more input you have.

Not all cylinders firing....perhaps a good tuneup is in the cards including a compression test. testing the wires and yes... the injectors.
Disconnecting the exhaust is a good test, eliminating a problem with the cats.
Try to get a code scan even if there is no 'check engine light'

Ok a bit more information...I have done a tune up recently...cap, rotor, wires, plugs, air filter, fluids, timing...trouble codes show no errors...only thermactor air code..air pump not connected..what about the transmission speed sensor?...ill check back with more on the injectors after i run that test..thank you for your suggestions.

Transmission speed sensor is an integral part of the operating systems as it affects fuel delivery curves, so it might be a problem, as would be a slipping torque converter

1990 Ford Bronco Engine   

i have a bad head gasket but its been alright till just recently it wont idle. thereis no smoke coming out of exhaust and none of the plugs are fouled.the idle is my problam now.is there anything i do about that.

What is the problem with the the head gasket, is it perhaps just an oil leak? Or, how much coolant are you losing?

What is the idle problem-

To low/high?

Won't idle at lower speed, stalls?

Fluctuates erratically?

wont idle at lower speeds stalls

Remove and clean the idle air control valve as well as the throttle body (get both sides of the blade and the throttle bore). The IAC is the most common problem for your complaint.

is the IAC the tube to the right of throtle body looking at it from front of truck. it has two screws holding it onand wires coming out of front.H0w do i take Tbody off

Copy and paste the following link into your address bar-

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/0a/2c/6[redacted] d800a2c65/repairInfoPages.htm

Cleaning the valve sometimes works, if the valve has an electrical problem replacement may be necessary.

How does the valve look, is there excessive build-up?

i wont be able to take it off till saturday am.Should the butterfly in Tbody move.

that site copy and paste doesnt work

Yes, it move when you press gas. The butterfly lets in the air.

The link works for me--

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/0a/2c/6[redacted] d800a2c65/repairInfoPages.htm

If it doesn't work again go to autozone.com and click on Vehicle Repair Guides. Once you enter Year/Make/Mod/Etc click on 'Driveability & Emissions Controls' to find the Idle Air Control Valve. The throtte body would be located under 'FUEl System.'

If you still have trouble I'll send a direct link if you leave your email address.

i found link at autozone.com. thank you. the butterfly is stuck. Is that a bad sign. Can i talk you sat.when i get the valve off.

The butterfly is sticking? It should open and close when you move the throttle lever. If it doesn't the throttle body likely needs replacing (this is somewhat rare so I'm skeptical of a serious problem throttle body).

If by chance, you jammed the butterfly against carbon build-up in the throttle body it may bind. Cleaning would remedy this problem.

How does it look?

1990 Ford Bronco Ignition System   

i had problem with IAC . I took it off and cleaned it. it worked ok for day then the engine turned over no start. I took off rotor and cap cleaned them both.Motor started for aday then would turn over but not start .I got new rotor and cap motor turned over and ran. i turned it ooff came back in an hour turned over but wont run idid not do any to engine why wont it run.

Hello
Sounds like the IAC got damaged or has a bad seal. When you reinstall you should measure the distance that the valve is extended, from the motor housing to the end of the cone, it should not exceed 1-1/8".
Heavychevy

you must also reset it try dissconnecting reconnecting turn the ignition ON and leave on for several seconds then turn the ignition OFF to allow the ECM to reset the IAC.

this is the wrong problem. its from 2 wks. ago

it can cause problems like you describing up to this point

/

Just doing a follow up to check on the progress of your bronco.
Heavychevy

1990 Ford Bronco Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have a 90 Bronco full size the problem is that the window switches sometimes work and sometimes don't Any suggestions what to look foe?

you may want to first check your switches to make sure they are making a connection
You can take a can of electrical parts cleaner and take the switch out of the socket and spray them, This usually helps and fixes the problem.

I find the easiest way to diagnose the switch is tp grab a good used one from the wrecker(same as pickup from about 88-93. Common for drivers side to quit first, contact cleaner might temporarily fix. I have seen quite a few on EBay also

1990 Ford Bronco Drive Train / Driveline   

my e40d stalls the engine in reverse, it shudders when going forward at a slow take off,tranny fluid smells burnt,on hot days after long freeway drive it wont shift up after stopping at end of offramp,what could be causing these things?

Sounds like the clutches are pretty much burnt in your E40D.
Unfortunatly there are no user servicible
parts in your trans.
Might want to get a 2nd opinion at a reputable transmission shop such as AAMCO.
An option to a rebuild might be a good used unit from a wrecker...they are fairly common in autowreckers and you might score one that was rebuilt.

last night i put the transfer case in 4x high and 4xlow and with my foot on the brake I went through the gears the transfer case seems strong in all gears and ranges, but after doing this,a clunking sound began I was wondering if the fried clutch plates could cause the transfer case to not engage or disengage.Can the clutch plates be checked by dropping the pan,Approx cost to rplce plates in CA



sure is to drop the tranny o

Dropping the pan is a way to determine if there is sediment or debris in pan.Both bad.
The transmission shop does not just change bands or clutches.They also do seals, o rings and gaskets at the same time...in other words an overhaul or rebuild. Prices vary even in Calif...just look up s few in the yellow pages. If you travel great distances in your Bronco, go with a Nation Wide chain trans shop....easier to get warranty.Also the shops with the smaller ads in yellow pages usually cheaper....

truk has 10"lift,38.5/15.5/15lt tires It has had3sets ofthese tires and even 40's13 yrs ago,putting 36/12.5/15lt next week.gnna install trans cooler and new clutch fan b4 doing trans.Found e4od totally rebuilt,wth all HD upgraded parts,comes with Billet convrtr and has 3yr unlimited milge wrrnty.$975pls350 4cnvrtr pls shppng frm plce florida.is ths good route or have trns shop give estmate to upgrade and rebuild?
t

That rebuilt one sounds like a good deal!
As long as you get a good receipt and an ironclad warranty..
My own preference is one from Performabce Automatic on the East Coast

got a phone or website for performance,what about scanning the whole system before just throwinh money at it

I do not believe a scan is avail for AOD trans that year, but you could check with a trans shop to see if they can.

www.performanceauto.com
lifetime guarantee too!

1990 Ford Bronco Drive Train / Driveline   

My 1990 Full Size Bronco (5.8 L Automatic Transmission XLT 4 wheel drive) will not move forward when shifting the gear selector into any of the 3 forward gears. It will however go in reverse fine when selecting the reverse position on the selector. For the last few weeks to get the Bronco to go forward you had to rev the engine to 1500 RPM or more while it was in gear. Now it does not matter how high you rev the engine, it just will not move forward. I realize this is a transmission issue but I cannot afford to replace the transmission. It was replaced about 70,000 miles ago though. The engine runs great and is very well maintained.

Hello, I'm sorry but there is no hope of fixing this one without overhaul or replacement of the transmission. The problem is internal.

Roger

but what is the problem, do you have any idea?

The transmission will have to be opened to see if the forward clutch has failed or the seals on the clutch apply piston has failed.

This is not a do it at home project without special training and special tools.

Roger

thanks for the insight and reality check!

I'm sorry there is no cheap fix in sight. A transmission specialist can pull codes from the transmission controller that may provide additional confirmation the trans has to come out but I sure wouldn't give those boys money for diagnostics.

Look for a good used tranny or a rebuilt. Keep in mind when it comes to dollars spent on a gear box it's all about the warranty provided. The best deal is a warranty that aligns with your expectations for a good/fair deal. Lowest price is often shortest warranty and highest number of short cuts taken by a builder cutting corners.

A warranty is best evaluated by what it doesn't cover. The shorter the list of things not covered the better.

If you are ready to close this question please click on OK to finish up. If not, please advise.

I thank you,

Roger

1990 Ford Bronco Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

rear brake failure, replaced brake cylinders, cant get any preasure to rear brakes when bleeding. need to know if and how to reset the proposioning valve(rabs)?

To center the valve, fill mstr and bleed first.Block wheels, Release park brake.Turn ign on or acc.Light should be on.Placerags under mastercyl.Crack open outlet line.(usually opposite the failed or repaired circuit)Have asst. slowly push pedal down till the light goes out, then stop.Tighten flare nut.Ensure assistant does not push pedal past the point the light goes out as that will overcenter the valve the other way.If the above does not work repeat the sequence above, opening another line.

thanks i'll try that.

1990 Ford Bronco Engine   

90 ford bronco 5.8L, when it changes gear from 2nd to 3rd, and ever gear after the truck shakes and losing power. when i press on the gas pedal all the way down, it won't down shift. real lose of acceration. no difference whether it's in overdrive or not. please help!

I would do 2 things. Get it scanned for codes, even if there is no check engine light.Many Auto Parts Stores offer a scan for free.
The second thing I would do is look at trans fluid for discoloration, as burnt fluid is death for AOD transmissions.It would not hurt to go by a reputable trans shop and get a (free) diagnosis.
A rebuilt trans is not tho only solution.Many auto wreckers have decent used ones.

i have actually changed the trans fluid,and pan gasket. checked the fluid since then, and fluid levels are good and the old fluid was not "burnt".

Still might want to get trans checked by a local pro, as it would be free for them to look at it.
By the way if you drop the pan , change the fluid and filter, you only get about 1/3 of the fluid. There is a suprising amount in the converter and the cooler.I usually do the pan/filter and then get the unit pressure flushed by a shop.

1990 Ford Bronco All Part Groups   

Seems to prefer running in cooler weather than warmer weather. It hesitates badly on take off, and when any pressure is applied to the gas pedal. I have noticed that it shifts very hard. This is after changing out the distributor, spark plugs and wires, coil, and fuel filter. Before the engine would just stall. We have replaced the PVC Valve, EGR Tube, Catalytic converter, valve cover gaskets and the exhaust gaskets. It has a new alternator, water pump, battery and fuel pump. Floorboard between the two front seats gets very hot, but I do not know if this is standard or not.

Sounds like 'multiple'problems.You should scan for codes. The hot floor indicates either a plugged cat or a bad 02 sensor, that is causing a lean air/fuel valve.If the heat is coming from transmission (do you have a guage?) it will have similar symptoms.
There are sensors that are temp sensitive such as the coolant temp sensor. It also regulates the air/fuel mixture via the computer.Might be worth looking at.
Bruce

Thank you Bruce, unfortunately the O2 sensor was not replaced when the cat was. Will try that, as well as installing a tranny guage.

1989 Ford Bronco Windows / Glass Malfunction Happens always Always

help, driver door will not lock or unlock, its a power door and when i push the button it makes a small effort to work but wont fully engage.i replaced the actuator and still broke.maybe the switch? and sometimes the pass side works correct.it also wont even lock with the key in the door.

Sounds like the locking device retainer has failed. You have to take the door skin off take a look at the area inside the door closest to the latching device... you should find a wire about twice the size of a coat hanger wire and it will be just hanging there.. you will also find where it attaches and a plastic retainer that is most likely broken.. replace the retainer and reattach the wire.. need more info just ask. AL

1989 Ford Bronco All Part Groups Malfunction Happens always Always

89 bronco had a 302 now a 351, i just bought it with a 351, is there typically any problems with this swap? also i was driving and about an 1/2 hour into the drive started chugging and then died, waited about 1 1/2 hour and started and drove about 10 min and died wouldnt start. any ideas, it will start and run for a few min after awhile.
also, when i push the cruise button, nothing happens, should there be a light that comes on? and is the switch replacable on the steering wheel?also it has a c6, to switch to a aod, is there anything special or is it pretty straight foward?also the ac blows ambient air, any idea? thanks very much for any idea.

Hello, I'll bet your sock filter at the pick-up point for fuel inside your gas tank sucks flat and cuts off fuel, so, the engine stalls. You'll have to drop the tank to get to this filter in many cases. Ask your parts supplier what it looks like and if it is a long nylon tube (sock), that's usually a tank drop.

Cruise control:

Check the fuse. Check the brake light switch for proper adjustment, the servo under the hood for cable connection to the throttle, electrical and vacuum hose hook-ups. If youcan order the switch for the steering wheel from FORD then the switch is replacable.

A/C:

Is the fuse good? Does the compressor come on? Have you checked for freon and is the system low? Is it R-12 or R-134a refridgerant? Have you looked/tested for leaks? Is the belt good?

Are you asking about "aod" as in automatic overdrive transmission?

Roger

yes the overdrive version, and will the fuel sock problem show up in any tests or will that have to be dropped to check and just by looking will you be able to see that its bad? and i have checked all fuses and all are good.is there a light that should come on when you use cruise?

So long as the overdrive trans. has identicle mounting and length profiles you should be able to use it. Be mindful of gear ratio issues should they factor your hiway speed engine rpm's. The 351 should have the power, but could be a little sluggish at mid range which might call for a downshift when you thought unecessary. Not a problem, just an event.

No, unless you have the excellent luck of checking for fuel flow the moment the sock filter collapses and stalls the engine, it will fool you. When the engine stops, so does the suction through the filter. When it expands back toward original dimention the trash on the filter falls away and fuel will flow again for awhile until a repeat of collapse.

You will see when you look at the filter how clogged up it is. It looks like a heavy weight nylon you could see through if clean. When you go to buy parts, the type fiter your Bronco has will show up on the catalog. If it is a cartridge instead of a sock the same stall theory applies due to trash in the filter. It may not suck flat but it is full of junk.

Ford usually won't have a cruise light come on unless the system engages. No "power" light will display that I know of. Just the word "CRUISE" or "SPEED CONTROL" comes on when engaged.

Roger

Hello? Will you please update this question status?

Thanks,

Roger

Are we finished here? Please update.

Thanks,

Roger

sorry i was out of town thanks.

OK, now where are we? I'm just trying to keep up.

Roger

Hello?, Please update this query!

Thanks,

Roger

Please take the time to update/close this question. I hope to provide the help you asked for. Please update.

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, I've asked repeatedly for an update here. Won't you please reply?

Thanks,

Roger

Still need help? Ready to close this question? Please update.

Thank you,

Roger

Hello, Can you tell me if you are having problems with the All-Parts Web Site? This question has been open quite awile. Please update or close it.

Thanks,

Roger

1989 Ford Bronco Windows / Glass Sticking  

The power rear window is not aligned and tilts slightly causing the window to rub when going up or down. Can this be adjusted or do I have to replace the window gear assembly. Thanks for your help.

Hi;
You should be able to adjust the track on the sides. There should be two bolts on the sides. Just take them loose and the push the track towards the window and retighten. Also you might want to try putting some silicone on the tracks. A dry track will cause the window to stick and slightly tilt. Good luck Les.

Thanks, I tried loosening the bolts but there didn't seem to be any room for adjustment up or down. I didn't think to push the track in. I also tried silicone spray, but that didn't help ease the sticking problem that starts when the window is about half way up. I thought the gear assembly might be out of alignment. Is the gear assembly unable to be adjusted?
Thanks again.

Hi;
The gear assembly can be adjusted. Take the three bolts holding the motor loose and operate the window up and down. Then tighten the bolts back up when the window is in the down position. See if this fixes your problem. Les

1989 Ford Bronco Fuel System Failing When starting Always

Engine failed to restart after being shut down.
Determined to be a fuel problem.
High pressure fuel pump kicks in for a second upon actuation of start key, but no fuel is present at hp pump. Fuel line disconnected between hp pump and "black cannister" mounted to chassis rail near fuel tank, no fuel. Line from tank disconnected at inlet to black cannister, fuel flows with out power to system, and fuel flows at same rate with power to system. Before I pull tank and change tank pump. any further ideas?

HI;
There is nothing between the main pump and the transfer pump. If you have dual tanks check the switching valve. Good Luck Les

1989 Ford Bronco Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start  

My 89 ford bronco just developed this problem. I could turn the key and have power, but as soon as I touch it to start, I hear a click, then I have no power anywhere. No head lights, radio, ect. Just dead. It was resetting, and I'd try again with the same results. Thought maybe it was dead batt, so we jumped it, had little power, but would turn over (barely). I checked Battery and solenoid, seem to be fine. Was messing under dash, heard it click back in, and got it to start, but now back to no power period.

PLEASE help. This is my search and rescue truck, so I need it running.

Hello!This sounds exactly like a bad ignition switch,Not the lock where you put the key but the switch down further at the lower column.I will provide you with the R&R instructions to guide you in replacement.Make sure the actuator rod from the lock assy is attached to the switch and the electric connector is plugged in and tight before performing this.One or the other might be the problem.Here's the R&R for the switch.Good luck.

Disconnect the battery ground cable.

Remove the steering column shroud and lower the steering column.

Disconnect the switch wiring at the multiple plug.

Remove the two nuts that retain the switch to the steering column.

Lift the switch vertically upward to disengage the actuator rod from the switch and remove the switch.

When installing the ignition switch, both the locking mechanism at the top of the column and the switch itself must be in the LOCK position for correct adjustment. To hold the mechanical parts of the column in the LOCK position, move the shift lever into PARK (with automatic transmissions) or REVERSE (with manual transmissions), turn the key to the LOCK position, and remove the key. New replacement switches, when received, are already pinned in the LOCK position by a metal shipping pin inserted in a locking hole on the side of the switch.

Engage the actuator rod in the switch.

Position the switch on the column and install the retaining nuts, but do not tighten them.

Move the switch up and down along the column to locate the mid-position of rod lash, and then tighten the retaining nuts.

Remove the locking pin, connect the battery cable, and check for proper start in PARK or NEUTRAL.-Also check to make certain that the start circuit cannot be actuated in the DRIVE and REVERSE position.

Raise the steering column into position at instrument panel. Install steering column shroud.

Already tried that too/ Also I found a ground missing from the EFI block to the fire wall. Could this cause the problem?

Please list everything you have done so far to try and repair this so we don't have to go around in circles here.Also post engine size and if it's manual or automatic.I will post a link to the electric circuit for you to help guide you in isolating.Print it and I will guide you through the troubleshooting. http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/0a/3a/4[redacted] d800a3a41.jsp

Ok sorry....

302 engine,
Fresh rebuild on AOD transmission.
Battery checked and good.
Solenoid checked and good.
Have power to the eec breaker located on the left front fender.
Replaced the ignition switch on the steering columm.
Replaced the ignition key/switch
Cleaned corroded connectors under drivers side kick plate, behind fuse panel.
Replaced the ground from the efi to the fire wal.
Checked the 6 or 7 fuseable links between the battery and solenoid.
Checked all fuses.
Another problem i have, not sure if associated or not, is while in any drive gear, and reverse, the back up lights stay on.

I think thats everything.

Your're not going to believe this but Replace the instrument panel charge indicator.The power from the ignition switch goes through that to the eec relay.Nut's huh.That's probably the clicking you here.

The Red/LT Green lead.

How did you make out?I can here it purring from here.Let me know.Mike.

Haven't gotten to it yet, as with kids at home, I am limited to weekend work. I will do it Saturday and give it a try, and let you know then.

OK,Talk to you then.

What a pain that was, but to no avail. We tried to send power straight through the solenoid as well, still acted like no power to start. The click noise is coming from under the hood by the eec relays, and fuel pump relays on the drivers side front fender well. It is still resetting once in a while, and when it does I have power to everything until I hit the starter switch. Then the click under the hood and nothing still.

What one componet when tripped would cause total power failure in the system?

Hello, I fought this very battle on a 1990 Ford Thunderbird Supercoupe.

On the T-Bird the problem was a dirty connection that was not tight enough where the battery positive cable connected to the starter motor. It was dark outdoors when I had rigged-up a remote start push button to the solenoid so I could watch and listen to what happened when I pushed the button to energize the starter. I saw a spark at the starter connection and the car lost all power.

I disconnected the battery, removed, cleaned the cable connection terminal with a wire brush, inspected the starter post (where the cable connects) for condition, re-assembled and it fired right up.

Please try looking at the wiring connections at the starter. If you can move the battery connection at the starter by hand, you have the problem that nearly put me in counseling!

Be safe. Don't put a tool on a starter connection with the battery still connected.

Good luck and please advise,

Roger

Any luck with this suggestion? On my T-Bird I ended up replacing the starter assembly...cleaning the corroded terminals worked for awhile but eventually the starter went back to just a click but nothing went dead when the click was heard.

Roger

Honestly I had to put it off for a bit, But I am taking Thursday off of work so I can work at it without the kids.

OK great. Waiting is so much easier when I know what I'm waiting on.

Thanks, I'll wait for you.

Roger

Ok, all connections were/are good. Even replaced the solenoid, still no luck. As soon as I hit the switch, total power failure. I pulled the starter out, Can I check it on the bench with jumpers to the battery? If so, how. Also, I heard the neutral start saftey switch could cause this issue as well. Any truth to that?

I've not heard that a neutral start safety switch could cause this.

There is an impaired electrical connection, or cable or something of that nature. Volts can get through a circuit gone bad. But when you turn the key to start...now that calls for AMPS. The bad spot just can't handle the load/demand and everything goes dead. The starter will call for 175 amps or less if it is a good one, more if it has problems.

Ford issued a bulletin on a wiring splice that may corrode on the yellow wire going to the fuel pump relay. They say to follow the yellow wire up the loom approx 5-7 inches and to inspect the splice. I didn't bring this up because the splice has three wires that in no way could cause a dead truck when turned to start. But, they could cause a CRANKS, BUT NO START. (No fuel)

How good are your battery cables? Not the connections...are the cables full of corrosion? Are there broken strands at the terminals? Have you looked at where the power distribution from the battery to a relay box or buss for Fusible Links connects? Anything there loose/corroded?

When the vehicle fails to start and goes dead have you pulled on, or tried to move, wiring loom connectors at the battery, ignition electrical switch, fuse /relay boxes? How do you regain power to everything so long as you do not turn the key to START?

Tomorrow I will access a different data base for a better set of wiring schematics. I want to follow the power distribution paths and find the major splices and connection points.

Should you really want to bench test the starter I can email or fax the instructions and a drawing to you. I do not think the starter itself is the trouble here. But, I'll send the info if you will tell me Where to?

I haven't given up yet,

Roger

Wiring schematics show a positive battery cable running to the Starter Relay where no less than twelve Fusible Links connect. A second positive battery cable runs to the starter.

Would you like for me to email or fax the diagram so you can see where the fusible links go, their color at the relay and the color they change to for the different systems? Where would I send this info to?

Please advise,

Roger

email is best : [redacted]

I took both the battery and the starter to auto zone, both tested fine. I also bought new cables to go from battery to solenoid to starter, and the ground to go to block. I will replace those on saturday. The best way to get power back was to undo the positive battery cable and let set for 1/2 hour, then when I reconnected, I could hear the fuel pump whirl, and I would have power again. Before it went totally dead on me, it did this once before, by a few weeks, and I knew a terminal was loose, I had it off for something else, and never tightened it, so I popped the hood, wiggled it a bit and it started. The other time after total death, I was fiddiling under the dash, and everything kicked back on, I hit the starter switch, and it started. Then all dead again after I shut it off.

Also, if a fuseable link goes bad, is it going to melt right in half?None are melted, so How would I tell the good from the bad. BTW, I do have a volt ohm meter for testing, just need to know what/where to test.

Fusable links that burn if not broken would be real soft to the touch and pull right in two.

But should there be a few broken strands of wire at the splice, or the terminal, there can be problems.

There is a connector labeled C100 that should be a large one with a bolt in the middle that holds the two halves together. I haven't determined if it goes through the firewall or is near the interior fuse box. I'd like a look at the terminals in that one. An ignition feed could have a loose or burned connection.

I'll send you the diagrams I found via email.

Roger

Might be in luck. was told that a fuse link that blew woukld be totally melted, thus I thought they were all ok. Well wouldn't you klnow it, one diodn't burn through. I have spliced in a new piece of fuse link wire, and it started twice now. Now do I have to find the reason for the fuse link going bad? It didnt appear as though it melted, just kind of broke. Let me know what you think. Also, as previously stated, the reverse lights stay on in all gears, which is another reason i was wondering about the neutral start saftey switch.

If broken strands were found.... that can be from flexing of the harness during all that has been going on under the hood over the life of the vehicle and the aggressive troubleshooting trying to find what the devil has happened.

I doubt you really have a short vs. wire fatigue or evidence of a burn would be there. That is your call as I cannot see what you've found.

I'll look at diagrams concerning the back-up lights issue. The neutral switch may be shorted to voltage causing this particular problem.

Roger

Probably is just from all the moving and such, there was definitly no burn.

Wiring diagrams show the back-up lights are powered through the PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH. Power comes into the switch on the PPL/ORG wire and when in reverse the switch will output voltage to the back-up lights on the BLK/PNK wire.

Should you find voltage output on the BLK/PNK wire when the shift lever is not in reverse then disconnect the P/N Position Switch. If the back-up lights go out, the switch is internally shorted to voltage. If they remain on there is a short to voltage in the wiring loom.

Back-up lights are supplied power from 15 amp Fuse #5.

Will the engine start consistantly since the repair to the fusible link? You said it "started twice"...

Roger

I've only tried it twice, as I wanted to make sure there were no other problems. I will take her out this week and see what's up. Just dont want another tow bill if you know what i mean!

I'll wait for your results.

Thanks,

Roger

Seems to be working fine now. I even have higher voltage on the gauge now. still have the reverse light problem, but at least she is running now. Thank you so much for your help.

John

Great! Have you tried my suggestion for the back up lights yet?

Wiring diagrams show the back-up lights are powered through the PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH. Power comes into the switch on the PPL/ORG wire and when in reverse the switch will output voltage to the back-up lights on the BLK/PNK wire.

Should you find voltage output on the BLK/PNK wire when the shift lever is not in reverse then disconnect the P/N Position Switch. If the back-up lights go out, the switch is internally shorted to voltage. If they remain on there is a short to voltage in the wiring loom.

Back-up lights are supplied power from 15 amp Fuse #5.

Roger

I will try that this weekend. Thanks a lot roger.

John

Thank you, I'll wait and see what happens.

Roger

1989 Ford Bronco Windows / Glass  Happens always Always

My rear electric window is stuck in the down position. Previously to this it was stuck in the up position. I sprayed silicon on the large gears in the center and managed to get it to go down. Now I hear no motor noise and the window does not go up. The fuse seems fine. Where is the switch mechinism located on this model (what has to be depressed to allow current to the electric motor---trip switch????)......sometimes I had to apply pressure to left corner to get window to engage...please help.

Do you hear the relay click?

I hear no noise of any kind. I am using the key in the rear door to activate the window. Nothing happens at all. No click, no noise, no movement. Is there a button of some kind that depresses when the door is up that may not be working properly. I had problems in the past with this but put pressure on the door which made the window go up. Where is it located. What can I do to fix this problem?

I've found from my years at a Ford dealership that this problem is most commonly caused by the key acuator.I don't know what kind of conditions you drive in,but where I'm at,there is big dust issue.You need to pull the wire running to the motor with the gate down and jump direct power to the motor.If nothing happens by switching power left to right, then yes you have a bad motor.If the motor operates the actuator is at the key area.You also stated that when you applied pressure to the gate,the glass would sometimes work.You need to check both latchs and clean them and make sure they fully engage with the striker bolt.The striker usally has a plastic collar on them.If this is worn,the latch is not making a full lock which will also not allow the glass to operate.
Good Luck,
Paul

I did as you said and pulled the wires and applied direct power to them. The window went up/down dependent on positive/negative power. So the dc motor is fine. Both the left and right latches do not have any type of plastic sleeves on them; just bare metal. How does the latches affect the powering of the window. Is there some type of sensor/switch on them??? Now about the key actuator I observed from the inside a left and right button and I could manually push either in. But when I did nothing happens. So how does this actuator work???

When you turn the key it ativates the up/down buttons.With the key in the on position,check the power wire going into acuator.If you have power going in,next dissconect the power going into the motor add check for power here while turning the key in the gate.If no power then yhe acuator is most likely bad.The latches themselves on some models act as a secondary safty so you can't open the gate with the glass up.The strikers fall into place by assuring the lock is in the full lock position.And yes,some are all metal,while others have the plastic sleve.Check for any unusual wear.If you had no power going to the actuator,check power to the interior switch.
Good Luck,
Paul

Just one last question. As I am a novice not a mechanic. When you say the acuator. What is the Acuator (location, etc). Is it the same mechanism as what I am sticking my key into? When I turn the key it moves a metal arm onto a button and depresses it. Is this thing with the buttons the arm pushes in the acuator or is the acuator something else in another location? thanks for all your help.

Yes this the acuator.Check power into and out of it.8 out of 10 times this is the problem.
Good Luck,
Paul

1989 Ford Bronco Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always

The heater ac control slide switch works find through all vents and the ac kicks on when moved to that postion, but doesnt blow cold ac air. thats not the problem,(ac needs charged I think) It seems that when I turn it to the heater and move temp switch to hot it does not blow hot air, or hot air through any other vents,panel and def. And the engine does not get hot for lack of coolant.

It sounds like you have a control head issue.My '87 does the same thing.Common problem with Fords.Control head is easy to change.Pull the bezel off the center console housing the radio,control etc.Control head bolts are now accessible.The head is most likely still a dealer only item so chechk with your local dealer for availability.
Good Luck,
Paul

I forgot to clarify that it blows air when on heater or defrost but the problem is it is not hot its like it is always outside temp, if on cold or hot always same temp, and I pulled the control head out and checked the cable that works the temprature it is hooked up and looks fine(seems to work and hear valves moving on passenger side of car behind glove box) is there any other part that could have broke besisdes the cable that works the temp control. full of coolant and heater core seems to be perfect condition

1989 Ford Bronco Heating / Cooling System Leaking When stopped No pattern

I just bought a 1989 xlt for cheap. when driving it home it rode great power was steady, no probolems. i get it home go inside to get something to drink, come out I notice i have a puddle of anti-freeze, how can i trouble shoot the problem or problems

Hello, A pressure test of the cooling system is a safe way to find a leak.

Checking to see that all hose clamps are tight is a good start. Look over the hoses for pin holes or splits. Be sure the radiator cap seals and is installed properly. Look at the overflow tank for condition.

Roger

Hi, Any news here? Just checking in with you...

Roger

1989 Ford Bronco Interior Components   

I'm having trouble finding a steering column. are other ford columns compatible with my bronco

There are others available. It depends on the following application-

1.Column Shift, Auto, C6- without tilt
2. Column Shift, Auto, C6- with tilt
3.Floor Shift, without tilt
4.Floor Shift, with tilt
5.Column Shift, Auto, AOD, without tilt
6.Column Shift,Auto, AOD, with tilt

Have you tried contacting suppliers from the all-parts.com homepage?"

what is a c6?
I have a 89 full size bronco eddie baur xlt. 5.8liter
auto transmission . the 4 wheel stick is on the floor
the column doesn't tilt. firestone is fixing the truck and said they were having a hard time finding the same column. I assumed the looked here too.

C6 and AOD are trasmission designations. Take a look for yourself with the hollander parts locator at http://car-part.com

Search all states.

I just found the column. a joint called columns galore. that's all they deal in. I can't believe firestone didn't know about these guys.

I haven't heard of them- but rarely need a hard to find steering column. What was the price? Try the link I gave to see if there is a difference in the price, unless you found it locally.

1989 Ford Bronco Ignition System   

wire got rapped around front drive shaft broke speedo cable. and unplug 4 prong plug from trans.Plugged that back in. I have 4 wires that was jerked out of a plug from the same harness blue, green/white, black, and blue/black. still have straight pointed ends on them cant find where they go.green and white touch the blue turns over engine. I got it to run when but quits. wont turn over with key.all wire lead to a geen plug on left wheel well.It a 5.8 automatic 4x4 1989 bronco. looked for a plug on trans couldnt find onelike an eec. looked under frame in dash cant find a plug missing any wires. Any help please

Use the following link to access wiring diagrams for your car. Copy and Paste the link into your Address Bar-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/0a/3a/4[redacted] d800a3a41.jsp


Let me know if this helps.

I already have wiring diagrams.I have a ford book that shows the wiring I have already been to auto zone sight.This dont help. I thought ther might be someone who worked on broncos wiring would know where the wire from the green plug on the inner fender goes.one set goes to the nutraul saftey in the trans four more wire come of the same harness i need to know where they came from.

I have another diagram that I will study and get info on tommorow

Sorry for the wait I just wanted to check all options and it took some time
I need to know the color code for the wires in question if you can see it and I can go further from there

on the driver side inner fender well under the hood there are several plugs connecting the one that is green this plug has these wire coming from it. Blue, green white strip,blue black stripe, black and a blue.They have straight pointed ends on them like the came out a plug. the other wire from this green plug goes to the trans a round plug with four pronges coming out of the trans.

ok I will check this info you gave me

Can you give me an email adress so that I can send you a few pictures of the connectors that are specified for your car
I believe some of the wires you see are a part of the electric shift system
If these wires were pulled out then you would not possibly see where they came from
or it will be pretty hard to tell

[redacted]

I sent you the email with the picks
I hope they are clear enough

no help

you mean to tell me that you do not see your connector in the picture?
what month was your car made maybe it is another years model

I seen one the nutral saftey that plug is there my problem is I have for wires with ends on the that came out of a plug that I cant locate.I looked on top of the trans with a mirror on found no plugs

ok I want to make sure I got you on this clearly
The wires you have are connected to the nuetral saftey switch is that correct?, and you need to know where they connect to?

ok I want to make sure I got you on this clearly
The wires you have are connected to the nuetral saftey switch is that correct?, and you need to know where they connect to?"
Alaso please tell me which one of the pictures resemble the connector end that you have on your car that is important for me to go forward

the plug to the nutral saftey swith is ok the wire are there there are four other wires that came out of the same harness green with white stripe blue black and blue with black stripe they have metal ends on the like they where ripped from a plug touch two together the bronco turns over I cant find the plug they were yanked out of It wont turn over with the key

the Transfer case motor Has 4 wires that stab into it and from what you explained I believe that these wires could have been yanked out of it
Inspect around the the little starter looking motor connected to the transfer case see if there are any wires there

1989 Ford Bronco Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

the steering in this thing is just crazy this truck trys to go whereever it wants to go even if I dont hit any bumps the wheel feels soft when driving and very loose I have taken it to a shop and they tell me it is the steering cuppler and the steering shaft and tryed to charge me over a grand to fix it but I am no fool I know the column dosent cost half that much it self and the shaft on the column is one of the strongest parts on the car they said the tires on the car made the steering bad they are only about one size to big so what should I do pay to get it fixed or just get a whole new steering column?

Do you have power steering?
what size engine. The first thing you should do is get a second opinion from an unrelated shop
So you can see what thier diagnosis is
or if they say anything of the like
There are two things in Mechanistry that you do not want to be second guessing or trying and erroring that is the brakes and the steering
I agree that the job should not cost that much but also you are not sure that is the problem either it could be a bad valve in the pump or a clogging pump one sure way is to inspect under the car while someone is turning the wheel and see if there is a looseness in the linkage
If the linkage is tight then it will be a problem in the power steering hydrolics system of course if it has powered steering
I hope this helps

Could it be the steering shaft or the steering cuppler?

loose front bearings or a damaged power steering gear box would bring about those symptoms
I would say a shaft or coupler sounds like a harsh diagnostic witout looking at the other componets first

1989 Ford Bronco Engine   

i just bought an 89 bronco 5.0 efi with an automatic transmission with about 16500 miles on it...i noticed when driving very sluggish getting through first gear and then shifts hard in 2nd . the person i got it from said he had just had the transmission flushed. upon inspection noticed a couple of small holes in the muffler . the gas pedal seems to be loose as well any suggestions??

Does the check engine light come on at any time while the engine is running?

Was the flush done in an attempt to fix a known transmission problem?

Check the throttle body for wear. Sometimes there is wear in the moving parts for the acceletor in the throttle body, which could also throw the TPS off, which could cause a hesistation on acceleration & shift concerns.

If it's actually misfiring on acceleration, look at the spark plugs and wires.

the check engine light doesnt come on ...the guy who had it before me said he brought the transmission in for regular service and they flushed it . also i noticed the bracket near the gas pedal that connects to the wire for the throttle is loose could this cause problems as well?

Are you talking about the area near the floor board or the engine?

Check the transmission to make sure they did not knock any hoses or wires loose.

the area near the floor board ...i know its an old truck but it seems to be really sluggish off the line. also today i started it up and put it in drive and it shut off. put it in park and restarted it as soon as i put it in drive rpms when up and it began to accelerate without touching the gas pedal

Check for vacuum leaks, let me know if you find any.

1989 Ford Bronco Engine   

Re:Full size 1989 Bronco After a cool night,(around 40-45 degrees F), oil pressure will not regester on start up in the early morning. After the day warms up,( around noon),pressure is fine. Could this be the oil sender unit, and if so, where is it located on the 5.8L V-8?

That would be the first place you will want to start at being that it can be a faily inexpensive exclusion to the problem that you are experiencing.
It is mounted at the front of engine, driver side lower part just below the left head attachment.
Before removing the sensor take the connector wire and ground it to the engine ground to see if you get a reading or not.

1989 Ford Bronco Drive Train / Driveline   

Hi, I'm Ben.
My '89 Bronco is in really good shape.
She's got a 5.0 V8 from a '97 F-150 with about 65k or so.
The transmission was rebuilt in '03.

Acceleration is good most of the time, although she'll stutter occasionally. Also, she won't stay in Overdrive for more than a few seconds at high speeds downshifting hard, and not at all below 65. She will also jerk in shifting. I'd like to think it's just the power behind the beauty, but she shifted much smoother in the beginning of our relationship.
Someone suggested that the shifting cable might be too long?? Another guy mentioned a shifting celenoid? I called Advance, but they guy couldn't locate a shifting celenoid in his system.

She will also hesitate before acceleration kicks in after depressing the gas pedal.

Also, I'm in Georgia and I failed my emissions test. Everything was *PHENOMENAL* on the exhaust readings except:
the hydrocarbons read 0176 ppm.. 21 over the acceptable limit of 0155 ppm. on the 25/25 test
and 0158 of an allowable 0159 on the 50/15 test. Does this mean there is a part that needs to be replaced or is it just because she sat for a while (about 6 months). I got some "stuff" that is supposed to guarantee a pass after you put it in a full tank, run it out and then refill and retest. Is this good enough? I replaced the exhaust from the manifold to the tailpipes about a year and a half ago.
Thanks in advance for your response!

Ben

Guarantee-- A marketing strategy to offer a process for recovery (in some form) of investment made into the manufacturers product.

When was the last transmission flush and fill with fresh fluid? How many miles since the rebuild?

The tranny was rebuilt in '02 or '03, if my memory serves me right. That's what the seller told me when we were talking about everything. I've had her now for just over three years.
There is seepage around the oil pan gasket as well as the rear main seal. Those repairs will come soon, but have to save up a little more.

By all means do a complete tune-up and get some fresh gasoline running through the system. This can make a world of difference in performance and emissions.

If you still have issues we'll deal with once tune-up and fuel quality issues are resolved.

I will do that! I'll get back to you as soon as it's taken care of!

1989 Ford Bronco Fuel System   

my 1989 full size bronco does not read the gas it turns on but it wont read the gas in the dash board

Hello, What do you mean it turns on?? Does the guage peg FULL with the key on?

Try plugging a different sending unit to the wiring harness connector at the fuel tank. Does the fuel gauge respond to the test sending unit?

Roger

1989 Ford Bronco Drive Train / Driveline   

i have a problem when in 4 wheel drive. i turn the wheel either way and i hear and feel a poping sound, as soon as i straighten the wheel it stops. it only does it in 4x with the hubs locked. doesn't do it if in 4x with the hubs unlocked or in 2 wheel drive. pulled hubs apart and they look good. no play in the front drive shaft or axels. the front u joints all look good too.

Hello
Had the same problem with an older ford pick-up years back. Come to find out it was the tire rod ends and having it in 4x4 was putting stress on them. Go out and see if there is any olay int tie rod ends.
Heavychevy

.

sorry, see if any play in the tie rod ends

also when i'm in $X and i crank it while just coasting i hear a light clicking sound, don't get the poping sound till i give it gas or hit a bumprut. the bigger the rutbump the louder the noise. i checked the tie rod ends and they are tight. i jacked it up, put it on jack stands and pulled the tires. i yanked on the tie rods as hard as i could and i don't hear anything, no play either. there solid.

Another common problem is what is called "torsional windup" This is when the transfer case is not permitting slippage between the front and rear driveshafts. When you turn, the front and the rear driveshafts NEED to go different speeds. If the truck feels like it is dragging when turning, you probably have torsional windup. This comes from a fault in the transfer case. A faulty transfer case clutch or chain can be a root cause.

so if i pull the transfer case how will i know if the clutch or chain need to be repaired

The problem is most likely in the clutch, A bad chain can jump in 2wd, or 4wd, and will make a bone-jarring bang. If you are inside the transfer case and find the chain to be loose, it should be replaced at the same time.

sometimes it sounds like a really loud bang, like i snaped a u joint or drive shaft

That sounds similar to the noise a jumping chain will make. If the chain is jumping, the driven and driver gears should be changed.

A chain will usually jump under hload, like taking of for a stop.

deosn't jump when hammering the gas from a stop. only when i turn sharply. the faster i'm going, the louder the sound

Sounds like the internal clutch to me.

didn't know they had internal clutches. just thought it was some gears and a chain

Most transfer cases have a clutch. This allows the front and rear wheels to travel different speeds, especially when going around a corner. EITHER it is made WITH a clutch, OR you must NEVER drive in 4WD on pavement. I know some of the earlier transfer cases were that way, but I am not certain which era your box is in. There are about 10 different transfer cases for 89 Broncos, so I do not know which one you have.

1989 Ford Bronco Windows / Glass   

CAN NOT GET POWER TO THE REAR WINDOW, TO MOVE UP AND DOWN. THERE IS POWER TO THE SWITCH ON THE DASH, BUT NO POWER TO THE REAR.

Hi, Does power arrive at the tailgate window switch as well? It should. If so:


Look for a tailgate latch switch that should allow power to pass to the window motor only when the tailgate is closed and latched.

Roger

THE ONLY PLACE I CAN GET POWER, IS AT THE SWITCH ON
THE DASH. WHERE IS THE BY-PASS SWITCH LOCATED ON
THE TAIL GATE ?

The tailgate latch switch sould be inside the tailgate where it can be actuated by the latch when it engages the striker.

Is there an inspection panel on the tailgate you can remove to see inside? Follow thw wiring harness to the switch.

Roger

1989 Ford Bronco Engine   

89 ford bronco 5.0L 302 wont start but cranks over...replaced fuel pump relay, and eec relay, new starter plugs and wires a month ago, 2 new fuel pumps, batteries full charged, i have spark, it cranks over great but wont start...any ideals?

First have it checked for codes, even if no check engine light.
Then do a fuel pressure test

1989 Ford Bronco Fuel System   

I have the efi 351w and I noticed that it smelled like it was leaking fuel. I looked but couldn't see anything, then I drove it to the gas station and noticed when I stopped at the pumps, that it was leaking alot of fuel from the engine. I opened the hood and tried to find the leak. There is a small plastic cap on the end of the fuel rail and it was melted a little, and so was the wiring harness in front of the fuel rail. I put gas in it, put the little cap back on as best as I could and tried to start it. As soon as I turned the key, the engine caught fire. It was a steady flame and started getting bigger. I had to use the fire extinguisher to put it out. I still can't find where the leak is coming from and how to fix it. Not to mention, I'm on limited funds. I need all possible problems and solutions.

Hello, Each fuel injector has an "o" ring seal at the top where it is fitted to the fuel rail and one one at the bottom where it is fitted to the intake manifold.

These seals are available as replacement parts. Replacing them may be all that is needed to stop the leak.

The burned wiring is likely the result of improper routing.

How can I help?,

Roger

1989 Ford Bronco Ignition System   

truck wont start at all. I know the battery cold cranking amps are a bit low, but would that be enough to cause it? I'm getting no 'clicking' from the starter, everything else seems ok. removed the starter and tested it, it's fine. Just changed the solenoid, and it seems to be okay. Not sure what else to do.

First thing I would do is either charge battery overnight or borrow a known good one. If the battery is marginal, remember winter is coming!
Check cable and ground connections for corrosion.Replace cable if it has a bulge.
Clean all connections.
"Jump start" with a screwdriver or short wire at solenoid.If it cranks good there, then the problem is the wire from solenoid to switch or the switch itself (they do wear out) Also, if the problem seems to be the wire, unplug the big harness plug at firewall, and check internally for corrosion.

when you say to check the switch, what switch should I be testing? is there anyway it could be the ignition itself? also, if it is something corroded at the firewall, is there any way to fix it cheaply or would I have to bring it in to someone? Im not too sure what i'm doing when it comes to the electrical components of a vehicle so I may have some "simple" questions. lol.

The switch is at the steering column, on top side about 1/2 way down (under speedo area).The plug at firewall might be dissasembled and cleaned. Ensure it has fresh dielectric grease, to prevent further corrosion.

so i've replaced negative battery cable, had a bit of corrosion, replaced the positive terminal connection, had the battery checked and it's good, then tried to jump from the solenoid, and I'm still getting nothing. Could it still be something from the starter to the switch? should I replace the cable to the starter?
thanks,
Steve

Try testing the cable from the battery to starter as well as the wiring from srarter solenoid to the switch.
Ensure wiring on solenoid is on correctly

I have three yellow wires that were on the previous solenoid that I don't know what they are. Does it matter what side of the solenoid the cables are connected to? when I installed the new one all the instructions said where to connect the small cable the the 's' or 'i' and connect the rest to the two brass connections. Is that correct? also, what could the other wires be. I tried starting without them connecting and had no power whatsoever. Thanks,
steve

3 yellow wires mead someone has been changing some wires.
Main battery + red cable to LH big terminal.
Same terminal all other (power+) wires which are misc c olors inl 1 yellow.
side solenoid has large black cable to starter, and small red/lt bl wire to ignition switch.

1988 Ford Bronco Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving Always

The truck had a speedometer gear(s) replaced at a transmission shop after the speedometer stopped working altogether. They had a lot of difficulty ordering the gears and when it was done the best they managed was a working speedo that reads very high. Ie. 75 at 50MPH. The truck runs poorly with bad data being fed into the computer. Is there a way to determine what the original gears/parts should be by VIN and order them? What we started with was not original either. Thanks!

I recommend calling your Ford dealer. The parts must come from there, and are usually differentiated by the color of the gear. Your gears are not original, so they have the best ability to run the VIN and get the right parts. They may also need the calibration code from the drivers door area. Make sure you find a helpful parts man, be patient and persist until you get an answer.

How hard are these to replace? I picked up a Haynes manual on the way home this evening and I don't see anything I couldn't handle in briefly reading about the gear. What does the calibration code look like? The truck is 800 miles away and I'll have to describe it before my next trip so I can order parts. Thanks again!

As I recall, the calibration code is on the drivers door, or door post. It says clearly, CALIBRATION CODE 5YC3, or some other code. Ask your dealer what information they need. They should be able to tell you what they need, and where to find it. The gear is easy to change, assuming only the external gear needs replacement. Remove 1 bolt, pull out the assembly, remove a clip to seperate the gear, then do it all in reverse.

One last question.. Is the inside gear a difficult thing to replace if the wrong outer gear has damaged it. I'm hoping not to have this problem but what if..

That is definitely a bigger project. If your gear is turning and not slipping, the inner gear should be OK. Likely the whole transmission would need to be disassembled to access the rear shaft.

1988 Ford Bronco Engine   

once my engine is warmed up it will start to idle rough and then quit (die) when i am stopped at a red light. i have to shift it to nuetral to keep it from dying. 1988 bronco xlt 5.8l

Sounds like the coolant temp sensor for the computer not plugged in or not wotking. It is in intake close to thermostat.Not the guage or Fan one.

1988 Ford Bronco Fuel System   

My '88 Bronco with 302 recently started having trouble. The truck will startup and run fine for about 10 miles, then it will try to go dead a few times and then go dead. It will not restart immediately, but will restart after about 30 minutes, and then the process will repeat. Any ideas for a solution

Some likely trouble spots are the fuel pump, ignition module, fuel pump relay, pickup coil, or main relay. Is the check engine light on when the key is on and the truck refuses to start? If so, the main relay is good. Is there spark at the coil wire when the truck refuses to start? If so, then the module and pickup coil is good. Will it start if you add some starting fluid? If so, then look at the fuel pump or relay. You will DEFINITELY need to narrow the possibilities by checking a few things like this.

I had discovered that there was a recall on the ignition module and took the truck in to have the recall repair done. The truck appears to be running good now, but the abs and brake light are still coming on when braking. Could this be caused by any of the trouble spots you listed.

No, that is a seperate issue. Check the fluid level. If that is OK, then you have another ABS issue. They can be difficult to diagnose without special equipment.

1988 Ford Bronco Drive Train / Driveline   

I was using the 4 x 4 and sudenly the transmision go off. Check oil on the tranfer case and was full.

I mean, engine running and transmision on neutro.

The transmission is not working at all now, meaning the vehicle will drive in forward or reverse? Start by checking the fluid level in the transmission for an automatic transmission. Check the clutch if you have a standard transmission.

I check oil level on the transmision ad it is ok.

Is it a standard or automatic transmission?

Automatic

If the torque converter turns with the engine (make sure the bolts didn't fall out) the transmission will likely need replacing. You can pull the pan and check for debris (metal particles), when excessive this is a sure sign of a failing/failed transmission.

1988 Ford Bronco Fuel System   

1988 full size bronco. 5.0 Engine. quits running in hot weather and wont start until the engine cools down. Takes about an hour to start up again. Will happen consistantly. Changed spark plugs and wires, fuel pump, fuel filter and it still does it.

Check for spark to the spark plugs during the no-start period. Chances are you are losing spark, mostly likely because of TFI module failure. Let me know if you are missing spark and we'll continue.

1988 Ford Bronco Drive Train / Driveline   

My Bronco will not engage into 4wd. It was working one day and the next I went to put it in and would not engage. Its a push button engage. I was told about a fuse but not sure where that fuse would be at. When pull into town off the highway as I slow down sounds like their is a grinding noise coming from the front right by the tire didn't know if that had something to do with it or not.

Are you familiar with the noise brakes make when worn pads grind into the rotor? If this is not the noise you are hearing there is likely something wrong with the front drive train that is hindering the 4wd.

Does the light (or associated lights) come on for the 4wd? If not, by all means check fuses.

Where is the fuse box for that 4wd located.

where is the fuse box for the 4wd located at?

Look on the drivers side firewall and the lower instrument panel firewall...

1988 Ford Bronco Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

I just replaced my steering gear box. And when I started the truck up the power steering pump is not working. I moved the wheel and added more fluid but it still is not working.

Hello,

Jack and safely support the front of the vehicle. Start the engine and turn the wheel from side to side. Leave the cap loose on the reservoir and keep the fluid at the proper level.

I assume the belt is tight, not slipping.

Give me an update.

1988 Ford Bronco Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

I just changed my power steering gear box. And when I put everything back together my power steering pump is not working. I moved the wheel back and forth and added fluid but it still does not work.

Hello,

It appears you asked duplicate questions... See your other question.

1988 Ford Bronco Engine   

I purchased a bronco that has been on the highway in a couple of years, just drove real slow, i took it to get a tune up and they replaced spark plugs and wires, air filter, fuel filter, battery and hooked it up to computer and replaced map sensor, was running good after that in town but on the highway when it shifted to overdrive it had no power, and now two days after tune up it idles high (2000-2300)and when you put it in gear it runs real rough and tries to die, and sometimes it does die, but always starts back up.

this bronco has not been on the highway for a couple of years

First I would be concerned with the condition of the inside of gas tank and it should be cleaned out.There is probably moisture and sediment there.Also run a fuel press guage to ensure there is plenty of fuel.

1987 Ford Bronco Engine   

i have an 87 ford bronco with a fuel injected 302 engine. i am trying to put a 351 engine in to it but the problem is, is that the 351 is carberated and we can't finish replasing the engine. i was just wondering if there are ways to get this engine to fit and work in my bronco.

yes you can make it match up it is a matter of installing a coil run the power from the ignition side of the fusebox ,rewire the distibuter to the diagram of the new engine 351recreate a chase for the linkage so the accellerator would work as with the previous engine 302 the new engine motor mounts may not match up that can be remedied through a welding or machine shop they normally have the specs or you can bring in the sets of motor mounts and they can be speced out what you are trying to accomplish is very common ,it will just take some patience and time

so what about the gas tank what can i do with that and how do i hook up the coil and the plug from the distributor has lass wires cause it is the distributor that was on the 351 not the one of the 302 so the wire hook up in the bronco has more wires than the one on the 351 so what do i do about that

you can install an electric fuel pump and run the line from the tank then to an external filter to carb ,go to a junk yard and get the parts from a non fuel injection engine and rewire it the same as you pull it off better to get a book and follow the schematic ,they are much easier the wire than fuel injection you will have to disregard the old fuel injection conponets they will bwe useless

ok i still have the old truck that the engine came out of would that fuel pump work

yes it will work fine

1987 Ford Bronco Engine Won't Start When starting No pattern

sat 4 1 yr ran when purchased now will not start had complete tune up module, plugs , wires,cap rotor fuel injection, harness wire now wont turn over starts very slow

and it will not turn over until you get that starter cranking fast.
you will first need to get a good batt to move the starter at a more rapid pace in order to get fire to the engine.then check your starter next one of the two is the culprit
I hope this helps

1987 Ford Bronco Fuel System Tuning Happens always Always

I have a 1987 Fullsize Bronco with a 5.8 H.O., I just bought this truck and the carburator has been rebuilt about 4,000 miles ago. It is running rich, how do I adjust the air/fuel mixture and where are the adjustments located? Thanks Chris

Hello,

This question has been released, would you please share what has already been tried to remedy the problem?

Do you know if this problem was present before and after the carb rebuild?

How is acceleration?

It is important that the ignition system is functioning properly as this can give the false appearance of a rich mixture. A worn timing chain can also cause the plugs to get black.

Let me know

1987 Ford Bronco Electrical / Lighting Systems   

1987 Bronco Tailgate window went down, will NOT go back up! tried key in door, tried dash switch, neither have worked. can hear a "clicking noise" when key is used in tailgate. no response from dash button. took off tailgate inspection plate. tried to manually lift/push glass up, tried pushing from bottom when gate is down, and pulling up with bent hanger when tailgate is up. won't budge. very cold out (NJ) please help!

Sounds like it could be the wire to the motor, or the motor itself.A quick test would be, unplug the motor, and use a 12 volt source to power the motor direct.If it goes up. then I'd suspect switch.
It probably will not go up, as I'd suspect the motor is the problem. If you are doing the autowrecker thing,I believe the pw door motor the same from cars/trucks that era.Take the motor as sample.Once the motor is out, you can manually push the glass up, and temporarily support it with a pce of wood.Be sure the wood is secure with a wire , rope or something similar, as if window comes down with a bang...well you will have more parts to buy at the auto wrecker!
Cold in Jersey? I am in Canada!lol

well, here's the main problem. HOW. i've tried removing the tailgate plate, so i can see the window. but cannot budge it for the life of me. tried everything. i've noticed that you've talked about this problem w/ other ppl in the forum, and you said to "dissengage" the window from the motor track? how. inside the tailgate is all covered by the glass. how do i manually lift the glas up so i can even get to the motor?

also, i've tried the hell out of it (with 2 ppl) to put pressure on the the door clamps by pushing on the tailgate in the closed position. the motor was changed about a yr ago. so i'm questioning the door clamps. what role do they actually have in the window going up and down.

the motor worked fine on the way down, wasn't "dogging" if you know what i mean. no signs it ws going to fail.. i'm just baffled, i've been at it all day.

and i'm using the key in the tailgate, not the dash. if you can tell me how to get to the motor, what wires do i access? unbelievable how these tailgates were designed. any help is appreciated. thx

Yup pretty normal.I have had side doors jam shut and the only way to access was destroy the inside door panel.If you can see the two wires going to motor, cut them (you can splice later) and do the 12v test.or..
This might sound crude, but assuming the inside panel off, start removing the bolts on the inside.If the motor was replaced, the tech probably replaced the factory rivets with bolts.As the bolts are all removed the regulator will drop down.
It will take a lot of wiggling but it will come apart. I do the same when taking doors apart at the wrecker.
If the rivets are there, they gotta come out.The rivets will be aluminum with a metal pin or nail.With a centerpunch or nail knock out the rivet.With a 1/4" drill drill out the rivet.No drill? I do not use a drill at the wreckers.Just a small sharp chisel.When time to reassemble use small bolts and nuts.
Before you do this, if you have a digital camera, snap a few pics.(easier to assemble)
You could send a few to this link or [redacted] and I will get a better idea what your'e up against.I have never done a Bronco one but many door and wagon tailgate ones at the wrecker.Cars at wreckers have no batterys and I have to use this method often.(The only way to buy the motor)

i DID get the cover piece inside the tailgate off, but the glass covers everything. how do i move the glass, b/c i can't get to ANY bolts at all. i wil snap some pics. but yeah, the glass, that's the main problem right now. thx

let me know how its going

1987 Ford Bronco Ignition System   

wont start,new coil,new plugs,new battery,no spark at spark plugs,cap good,1 day went to start turned over started for 3 secs it was cold,shut off,never started back up,think maybe wiring?need advice

The first thing you need to do is remove the distributor cap and verify the rotor turns when you crank the engine.

The ignition module (TFI module) is a high failure item on these. Call Advance Auto or Autozone and see if they can test the module (this is a free service).

If you need instructions let me know.

rotor turns fine any other advice

Have you tested the TFI module? It is a very high failure item.

1986 Ford Bronco Windows / Glass  When repairing 

hi i just purchased a 1986 ford bronco,the tail gate motor was missing i bought a new one and cant seem to get it installed right,is there a trick to this you can help me with.

Hi;
The mounting should be three holes in the regulator. On most of this models the motor mounted horizontally. Once you have the bolts started, Just get them snug. Operate the window up and down to make sure your gears line up. If working properly then go ahead and tighten them the rest of the way. Good Luck Les

1985 Ford Bronco Windows / Glass Malfunction  

Help! I have an '85 Bronco that has no working windows. After buying the truck, the passenger window stopped working, had to bang with hammer on motor just to get window closed. Now driver window won't work either. Back window was rigged but wires tangled underneath. No windows working. Any suggestions? Is it possible to replace electric windows with manual cranks. Can back window be fixed? Have dad who can follows directions...Appreciate any help. Tammy

Tammy, to answer your questions. The electric windows have one of 3 items that fail. The switch, dealership item, low failure rate. The motor, available thru most auto parts dealers as a special order item, requires removing the door panel and about 2/3 of the way down and forward of the middle is a spot with 3 dimples. These 3 dimples need to be drilled out so you can gain access to the window motor bolts or you have three very large pop rivets to drill out. either way not a difficult job. Third and most common, the window regulator, also a special order item fromthe parts house, this normally has 2 bolts at the top and 2 at the bottom.
To identify which is bad, remove the door skin and unplug the electric wires to the window motor. with the key on, check for voltage. If you have voltage, the switch is good and most likely the motor is bad. If you have the motor making some noise the switch and motor are good and the regulator is bad. Before starting this.... check your fuses. Let me know if I can be more help. AL

1985 Ford Bronco Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When shifting Always

Auto Trans shifts into 2nd gear almost immediately when you accelerate then as you accerlate it will shift back to 1st for a brief period then shift back into 2nd and normally through out the gears. Replaced Modulator valve with no improvement. Check and could not find any vaccume/hose leaks. Going to change trans oil and filter today. Any Suggestions.

If you manually shift into first gear is it okay then?
Let us know if there is a change after you change the fluid/filter.

1985 Ford Bronco Engine Failing Happens always Always

ok here we go i have a 85 bronco i originally pulled it into my garage cause it was running weak it just happen one day driving down freeway so i got it home and did a compression check turned out two cylinders had no compression so i pulled the heads and it had a blown head gasket so i replaced gaskets and machined the head got a whole new gasket kit put it all back together while i was at it i changed the injectors with some accell 19 pounders put it all back together and it started up find for all of 2 seconds then it started dumping smoke i dont think its oil or coolant but its smells almost like varnished gas but gas is new but does have no heet water remover thinking maybe i had water so it smells almost like a diesal i did do another compression check thinking it might be rings but that one was all within 10 percent of eachother so compression isnt bad i thinking it could be valve timing or a gloged cat but do those explain for smoke any help would be greatly appreciated also all sensor except tps are new also change wires plugs cap rotor recently put msd coil and also control mod is new

wanted to check fuel pressure but unfortunately no shrader valve on the fuel rail/

more about the motor im not sure if its a 302 or 351 all 302 gaskets lined up but you never know also motor has been bored .040 over kinda a frainkenstein motor when i got it

O.K. you say there was smoke and a smell. If the smoke was white and the smell kinda diesel like(kinda rich and sweet), when you blew your head gasket, you must have got some kide of fluid in your crankcase(antifreeze). If you did'nt do a complete flush of the motor, its' still circulating in the system. Antifreez can and will stay around for a long time(thats' why its' deemed a toxic waste). If you have'nt already done so, flush your motor with a good motor flush(your local parts house should have it) change out your oil and filter. It may be an old wifes tale to some but antifreeze can and will cause internal bearing and seals that were not meant for the stuff to fail.
Good Luck,
Paul

i already did a motor flush and changed the oil 3 times in the last week my motor has never been so clean before the only other possibility is that coolant got into the exhaust would that cause it but ive run it for up to 15 minutes and the smoke getss thicker and thicker ive also done i half assed coolant pressure check with a vaccum pump on the over flow of my radiator.

What color is the smoke, black or white? If you have EFI which you indicated to me by saying you changed out the injectors, you should also have an internal cooler that goes to the intake that may be dumping fluid into the exhaust causing a white sweet smelling smoke. If its' black, your burning some type of oil. Yes there is a possibilty that there may be some type of fluid still collected in your exhaust system. Normal condensation can be expected, but an excess as described needs to be pinpointed. You state you did a vaccume check on the cooling system, now try a total pressure test under opperating conditions. This should tell if the system under normal operating temperture is releasing any unwanted fluid into the exaust.
Good Luck
Paul

the smoke to me looks white but im sorta color blind but i had my wife check and she said white also you said to do a pressure test how do i do that other then just running the motor?

Check with one of your local parts houses(Pep Boys, Auto Zone etc.) I understand they have what you need for free or a nominal price. Just tell them you need a coolant system pressure checking tool. If you have'nt replaced the radiator cap, it should state on it what pressure should be. If it dosen't refer to a manual or the parts house to see if they can give you factory specs on pressure level. White smoke tells me there may be some fluid left in, or still seeping into the system.
Good Luck,
Paul

ok i have the pressure tester on there been there for about 5 minutes hasnt dropped yet but im waiting to if it does later but also i am curious you seem pretty sure that it is coolant in that case there are two other possibilitys right either coolant in the oil or cooolant in the fuel am i correct?

Yes. This is why I'm directing you to do the pressure test. As I stated earler, I believe you have an intercooler that runs thru your intake, thus making it possible for your intake to be recieving unwanted fluid from your cooling system into the combustion chambers causing the unwarrented smoke that you are describing. You say you had the heads machined. Did they do dye test to make sure there were no cracks or fisures when doing so? The slightist of either can cause this under normal operating temps.
Good Luck,
Paul

ok i ran the coolant pressure test for 5 hours didnt drop the slightest yes there were pressure checked and manafluxed so im pretty sure heads are ok i droped a quart of fuel from my fuel line thinking maybe there was water in there and there was so i drained the whole tank and filled it up with good supreme gas now it runs great but its loping like my camaro which has a race cam and all that fun stuff and its running rich blowing black smoke instead of white which is an improvement to me now it atleast runs enough it could be driven if needed to i hooked up my vaccum gauge to the intake and ran it its a little low running about 15 when i stomp it drops down to 0 then up to about 25 then slowly back to 15 still loping any ideas? its an on going project and the sad thing is i need to sell it within a couple months due to the fact im moving back to hawaii kinda a bummer im starting to really like this truck lololol

O.K., you have changed all sensors but the TPS. How about your mass air flow sensor? By the sounds of it, you're running on the rich side and one of these could be a problem. Best thing to do is have the vehicle hitched up to a diagnostic scanner and see if any codes can be retrieved(I understand Auto Zone, Pep Boys etc. will do this free or at a nominal charge) If a code is retrieved, follow the flow chart if they can provide you one or point in the right direction to obtain one.
Good Luck,
Paul

ok i work at pepboys and own a scanner so ill do that when i get home tomorrow my truck doesn have maf sensor but does have map sensor which is new but vacuum line is not ill let you know if codes pop up or not thanks again

Havn't heard back from you so i'm taking it you must of had some type of luck. If not,keep in touch and we'll keep at it.
Good Luck,
Paul

1985 Ford Bronco Engine Malfunction  No pattern

I have an 85 Ford Bronco with a 4.9 liter straight six, one-barrel carb, and a C6 three-speed automatic transmission that I am restoring and rebuilding. So far I've replced the entire cooling system, belts, spark plugs and wires, the 1 barrel carb, harmonic balancer, and exhaust. It runs quite well, but when I shut it off the exhaust manifold glows cherry red and it sometimes backfires (usually when it is warm). I plan to replace all the wiring, and have been told to replace the engine computer or bypass it. What is the best way to get the vehicle running properly, legally and safely?

First, let consider the hot manifold. They are not supposed to get that hot. A overheated manifold can come from several causes. If the timing chain is not on right, or the spark timing is too late, the manifold can overheat. Check the timing with a timig light first. Make sure it is set at the specifications. Look closely to see if the spark advance is functioning properly. The spark should advance when vacuum is applied to the distributor fitting and when the engine RPM is increased. If not, the distributor will need repair/replacement.

To bypass the computer, is neither legal nor the proper repair.

the distributer is among those parts that have been replaced, and I had a reputable shop reset the timing

Does your Bronco have the ignition module on the distributor or on the fender?

Does your Bronco have air injection on the exhaust manifold or head?

It has air injection on the exhaust manifold

You could be getting backfiring from a malfunctioning air injection system. Try disabling the injection by blocking off the air flow, disconnecting the pump... See if that make any difference in the backfiring or the hot manifold.

Is the ignition module on the distributor or the fender?

The ignition module is on the fender. Backfires much less forcefully when air pump is blocked off, but still backfires during shut-down on regular basis. It is a muffled sound versus the sharp gunshot sound.

Does the exhaust still get so hot? Is the idle speed proper, or is it too high?

Idle speed is proper, exhaust still gets red hot

If the valve timing, or spark timing are wrong, it could contribute to a hot manifold, but will affect the power.

Can you backprobe into the oxygen sensor connector with a digital multimeter? As you rev the warm engine, the voltage should vary from about 0 volts to about 1 volt. At idle, it should vary between .2volts and .8 volts. This will show if the computer is in control of the fuel mixture. (more that 1/2v means rich, less means lean mixture)

Yes, I can do so. It may take a couple days to get it done. I will advise you of the results

Fine. We will rule out some of the possibilities and pinpoint the exact issue.

1985 Ford Bronco Ignition System Won't Start When starting Always

i have an 85 ford bronco, the ignition switch is very hard to turn even in warm weather. Now that it is cold out it is even harder to turn and almost have to turn it all the way around to start it. Have even had to us pliers to help start it cause it was so hard. Do I need to just replace the ingition switch or is there more that might be wrong?

Hi, Do you know how to remove the ignition lock cylinder?

I would want to remove the ignition lock cylinder and then see how difficult the mechanical part of the switch linkage is to move. If binding is still present the lock cylinder is eliminated and the electrical ignition switch mounted on the steering column is the cause.

How do you want to proceed?

Roger

I just need to push the pin below the switch with an pin when the key is turned part way right?

Before I confirm please advise if you have a Bronco, or a Bronco II. Do you have a Tilt Steering column or not?

Thanks,

Roger

full sized bronco with no tilt steering

With a fixed column the ignition lock cylinder is labor intense.

It may serve you well to disconnect the battery and lower the steering column for access to the electrical switch for removal. Starting here can still diagnose the cause and save you column disassembly from the steering wheel down inside to get to the lock cylinder. There are some parts that have to be replaced upon reassembly even if the lock is OK.

Do you want me to email instructions with pics? What is your email address? Or, I can fax the info if you prefer.

Roger

email would be great-- [redacted] , so you do not think that it is just the ignition switch where the key is placed then??

The ignition "switch" where the key is inserted is only a lock cylinder that is part of the mechanical system used to actuate the actual electrical ignition switch located on the steering column.

If you lower the column and remove the electrical switch you can feel how difficult it is to just turn the lock mechanism with the key. If it feels normal without the effort needed to move the electrical switch, replacing the electrical switch should clear the problem.

Let me have a few minutes to put the email together for you.

Roger

would it be to any benifit to replace the cylinder at all? or I should go through trouble shooting the issue first?

Peace of mind at a higher cost would be the benefit. Owners do it all the time "to be done with it" and because they want to keep the vehicle.

I'll send you what I found for your review. Whatever you decide works for me.

Roger

but would replacing the cylinder be a short term fix or not?

If it turned out to be the only problem (the electrical switch was OK) it would be a permanent fix.

So long as you choose to bear the expense there is no penalty for making the lock cylinder a part of the repair. Since you have an ignition key the lock cylinder is an easier task than I first believed.

Email is on the way.

Roger

well it looks like the cylinder was not the issue, I replaced it and is still hard to turn, so suspect that it is farter down the line like you say, thanks for all the help today

You are welcome. To accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me please click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

Thanks very much,

Roger

1984 Ford Bronco Ignition System  When repairing 

How do I get the old Ignition switch/core out so I can replace it with the new one? I know that their is a release pin that needs to be pressed in, but I don't know wher I can access it from. Is their a trick to this? Thanks for any help, I am broncoless until I can get the old core out.

This is one of the easiest tasks to accomplish. Place the Key into the old ignition, find a drill bit or even the internals from a ball point pen can work, under the steering column directly below the key is a small hole.. turn the key to the on position and push the drill bit upwards.. the ignition should slide right out.. to replace the new switch.. insert the switch with the key installed.. slide into the column and turn to the off position.. all done.. let me know if you have any problems. AL

I tryed to get to the pin from the hole that you mentioned, it seems like I'm just hitting the steering column. Does the wheel have to be in a certin position?
Thanks.

Normally I have done this with the steering wheel centered. The pin does not have to get pushed up very much.. about 1/8 inch at most.. I have once had to remove the lower steering column cover because the factory did not drill the hole correctly.. to remove the lower cover is either a philips screwdriver or a small torx screwdriver.. Let me know if this helps. Al

I belive my hole is drilled wrong also, the housing that holds the inition switch is one solid metal piece on full sized 84 Broncos.Removing the plastic housing from the bottom of the steering column does not give me access to the pin on the switch. Can I access the pin by removing the steering wheel? I still can not seem to compress the pin through the hole in the bottum of the steerin column.
Thanks

Wow, it has been a while since I worked on an all steel column. I do not recommend attempting to remove the steering wheel. It is a pain and you will not have much luck with the ignition switch. I do recommend taking and drilling the access hole larger. I believe the standard hole is 3/16 inch and if you went to 5/16 the hole is about 60% bigger and you should have plenty of access to the pin (without a gapping hole). It is either that or maybe fishing with a piece of coat hanger material.. I would be drilling myself.. Let me know.. AL

Thanks, I will let you know how it worked.

Mark
Monroe, North Carolina

1982 Ford Bronco Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When starting When cold

Bronco willstart but when the key hits the run position it dies. If I pull the wire off of the starter relay when it starts it will run untill warm. Im thinking its the in Line Ballast ????

Yes,
It could be the in-line ballast. 2 other possibilities are: ignition module, ignition switch.

To test for the ballast, check voltage at the coil when it fails. Should 8-12 volts. If OK, then check the other 2 options.

I have allready replaced the coil/Ingtion switch down on the colum and the crank sensor and the computer. MY Question is how do I replace the Ballast wire as they dont sell it any more. Also can I just cut the wire with the ballast resistor in it and run a wire direct to a NEW coil that supoports a external Ballast??????????

Thanks Ben

To replace the wire, you will want to cut it as close as reasonably possible to its starting place. Solder a regular wire in its place and run that straight to a resistor of the proper value, then to the coil. Or if you have a different style coil, follow their instructions.

1982 Ford Bronco Fuel System   

My idle seems to have a mind of it's own. Up until two days ago the idle was smooth and consistant. Now it fluctuates up and down constantly, and even dies out while waiting at stop signs.

There are two common causes. One is a vacuum leak- check at the intake gasket, carb gasket, and vacuum lines. The other is low/high fuel pressure (best checked with a gauge).

If both of these check okay, you'll likely need to rebuild/replace the carburetor.

This information assumes the engine runs fine above idle and only stalls/surges while idling (otherwise engine performance is fine).

Thank you. Also I have been trying to purchase a detailed shop manual and can't seem to find what I am looking for any suggestions.

Copy and Paste the following links into your address bar-

http://autozone.com/newGuide,yes/shopping/repairGuide.htm

This is for a free repair guide, the equivalent of a Haynes or Chiltons manual.

There is also http://alldata.com
This site offer a yearly subscription service, for $24.95 per year.

This site offers a one week subsription- http://www.eautorepair.net/
1 Week (7-Days) : $ 9.99
1 Month (31-Days) : $ 14.99
1 Year : $ 29.99

I'm not sure if they cover your vehicle, but they should.

If you want a paper manual-- the best deal will be found on Ebay. Consider posting to 'Want It Now' at the site if a manual is not listed.

Another options for a paper manual is-
http://www.factoryautomanuals.com/

Another option is doing an internet search for Helm Manuals.

1981 Ford Bronco All Part Groups   

just bought smells like exhaust when it runs(dough nuts?),run smooth two days went to the beach over rough road then went to work. it work not turn over but had power,even tried jump start. was told this engine has been tuned up then parked but start daily

Have you checked for fuel into the cabuerator?
I would say to use some starter fluid first and see if you can get it to fire up.
You need to make sure that there is spark if you cannot get it started at that point

thank you hope it works as I was always a chevy girl growing up but secretly liked the broncos- looks like the same basic engine. This one is even from my days of youth

1974 Ford Bronco Windows / Glass   

I have a 1974 Ford Bronco. I'm trying to figure out how the wiper fluid reservoir works. It seems to have a plastic node at the bottom where that looks like it should gravity feed a small wiper fluid line/hose. But the node stems off of another opening/chamber that allows the fluid to flow out of the reservoir onto the ground. I must be missing something: is there a second hose or some sort of plug? The trucks wiper fluid system hasn't worked since I purchased it, and I'm simply trying to restore it to working order.

Normally there is one hose fom resevoir to a 'y' block with two hoses going to the nozzels at base of windsheild. Sometimes when the pump fails, either in wiper motor or the base of the resevoir, it is possible to buy a universal kit at your local auto parts store for about $15. It comes with a pump, hoses and two wires attached. Easy to hook up if you follow instructions. Also easier than trying to find 34 year old parts!

1971 Ford Bronco Ignition System   

we're restoring a 71 bronco half cab, manual trans, with a 302 engine ... took it apart to fix some clutch chatter ... got a new flywheel, clutch ... put it all back in ... have fuel, starter turns over but doesn't pop .... threw in a voltage regulator, starter solenoid, new coil - at the advice of others and still nothing ... any ideas ?

Double check that the flywheel is the same tooth count, there were several sizes offered that era.
Make sure the two wires on the starter (the small ones) are not reversed.
Running points or electronic?

points

Ok, make sure you have aprox .017" gap at the points, and voltage going to coul and didtributer. Might be a good time to switch to factory
(74 up) Electronic ignition.Or a Pertronix one that fits in the dist, looks stock and gives larger dependable voltage.
Are the two small wires on solenoid correct? One marked "I" Ignition, the other "S" Starter.

yes ... just double checked ... both are set correct ... im pretty sure it's in the primary circuit ... she's just being headstrong and wants to challenge me ... have to just whittle it down more i guess

just got into the fuseable link and the wires seem broken ... gonna check that more tomorrow .. thanks for your help so far or if you have any advice regarding the fuseable link ... thanks

Pretty straight forward.Fuseable links avail at your parts store. Soldering them in preferred, crimp connections second choice.Shink tubing better than elec tape.
You could Temporarily replace with normal wire for testing.

Also did the fuseable link break, or did it 'blow' because of a short?
Check the space between the the block and bellhousing for a pinched wire?

thank you .. will check those things when i get off duty from the base tonight ... will let you know ... thanks again for your help

Off the base? Where you live?

1968 Ford Bronco Engine Stalling When accelerating No pattern

engine starts and runs but runs rough and eventually stalls and wo'nt restart till engine sits for awhile.

Check for adequate spark during no start using a spark tester.

If spark is good check timing.

If timing is ok check cylinder compression.