Ford Bronco II

2007 Ford Bronco II Electrical / Lighting Systems   

My 1987 Bronco II won't start when I turn the key. Brand new battery. It will start if I jump it by coasting down a hill and popping the clutch. Battery cables get very hot when I try to start it now. Since it will start by popping the clutch, would it likely be a problem with the starter?

Very possible it is the starter. First check the main battery cable connections and then check the cable itself for possible abrasions.If the cable checks out ok, you can remove the starter and check it on the bench with a battery and jumper cables.Rebuilt starters are avail everywhere including All Parts.

Thanks for the reply. I'll check that this morning.

What about the cable from the solenoid to the starter itself? It got pertty hot also and the insulation is pulled back a small about from the eyelet that connects to the solenoid? What about the solenoid? Could it be the cause?

Solenoid might be it.Cable insulation not a problem unless cable corroded where insulation pulled back.Cable cheap easy fix if it is the problem.

1996 Ford Bronco II Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction Happens always Always

I had the bell-housing replaced after the motor and transmition came loose from eachother and the bell-housing cracked. The automatic transmition stopped transmiting power to the wheels on my first trip after getting the bronco back. No forward or revers and the transmition oil level doesn't drop when the engine is running. Is this the oil pump in the transmition? The transmition is an automatic with over drive, engin is the 2.9L V-6. Is it possible that there was other damage not discovered by the shop or did they screw up the job? Tranny failed after less than 12 hours driving.

First check for obvious leaks, and trans fluid level.As the pump is directly behind the bell housing, it is possible that the aluminum transmission also received a crack, close to the pump.
Did they replace the front seal? The front bushing in the pump?If the bellhousing cracked, the trans may have been out of alignment and worn out the bushing, that the torque converter rides in.To replace the bushing and the seal, I usually remove the pump.Did they?
If you can, remove a trans cooling line (at the rad) stick it in a bucket and see if you have lots of line pressure when truck running.If so, pump is probably working.
The pump is not difficult to change, after the transmission is out

I had them do the bushing and the seal. is it possible that they boched the job and left some thing loose that drives the pump. I don't have line pressure and the pump was perfectly fine befor I braught it in.

Yup, it is possible that they neglected something.Probably an o ring or seal was not changed. Does the trans make a 'whining' sound?

No wining sound.

Just wondering. An improperly installed torque converter will crack the inner gear on the pump and cause a whine.

1991 Ford Bronco II Drive Train / Driveline   

hi, i had a backfire while hard driving while using lpg. now the auto will not change automaticly i have to change manually. it did blow my air box apart and i replaced with twin air pods. the engine starts and idles normally,it drives well with no other problems just the gear change up or down. had scan tool put on and the only code was 47. please help?

Hello, Code 47 is defined:

Low flow unmetered air (check for small vacuum leaks, injector o'rings, gaskets etc )

Have you put a vacuum gauge on your engine to see what the reading is? It may be too low due to leaks not yet found.

Unmetered air means the engine airflow into the intake manifold is not all going through the air inlet tube from the air filter.

Any help?,

Roger

hi mate, will check for vac leaks, but i still dont understand why my auto wont change up or kick down.

Please tell me if your transmission is the AOD?, or the E40D?

If AOD, "No Upshifts" can be caused by sticking or improperly adjusted T.V. Rod (high T.V. pressure). Improper control valve pressure. Dirty or sticking valve body or governor assembly. Improper speedometer gear.
No Forced Downshifts can be improperly adjusted T.V. Rod. Dirty or sticking valve body or governor. Improper oil control pressure.

Roger

hi roger, the box is a e4od, i have jumped under the car and checked all electrical conections and all looks good, has new oil the correct stuff . thanks for yoiur help mate.

Are you equipped to perform line pressure tests?

The E40D transmission has very extensive diagnostic possibilities starting with checking linkage to valve body and accumulator overhaul.

I recommend an evaluation be done by a transmission specialist.

Roger

thanks very much for your help. it will be cheaper to put a c6 in the boody thing?

I have no idea of costs where you are, sorry. You'll want to check local resources for information to guide your decision to repair or replace.

It could be a transmission control module.

Roger

hi,rodger thanks for all your input, is the control module hard to get at and could i put another one in just to test that option?

What engine do you have in this one? 2WD or 4WD please? I'm looking for the location of the control module.

It's all about controlling cost. If you want to try another module thats your call. I recommend diagnosis by a transmission specialists in your area. You can expect a repair for which you have recourse if needed.

Roger

Gidday rodger, mine is a 4wd 351 windsor fuel injected , the reason i was concerned in taking the car to the auto dudes is just so expensive in australia to diagnose and repair. it cost me 1200 dollars just for a service and seals.

The transmission control assembly is shown to be below the brake fluid reservoir. What bothers me is the only pic I found shows a diesel engine.....

The Elec. Shift Control Module (4WD) is behind the right kick panel.

Would diagnosis only be affordable by a local trans technician? You might be able to fix what he finds yourself.

Roger

Thanks so much for your help mate, i will book it in and see how it goes.

Ready to close the question? If so please click on OK to finish up. If not, please advise.

I thank you,

Roger

ok thank you rodger

Please look and try to find a place on your screen where it shows you how to accept my answer by clicking on OK to finish up. This action will close the question.

Thanks!!

Roger

1990 Ford Bronco II All Part Groups Upgrade When idling Always

oil pressure is always low want to upgrade oil pump can a new pump be installed that is stronger,this model bronco always shows low oil pressure (1990 bronco2).

You can always upgrade to a different pump but i would put a manual gauge on it first and make sure the pressure is really low,I have had some problems with after market sending units and false readings,Low oil pressure could mean bad bearings and putting on a new pump would be a waste of time,If it were me and the engine had over 100k on it I would think about replacing it.High oil pressure and bad bearings dont mix,The rule is about 10psi per 1000rpm.Most of the parts for the 2.9 were made in germany and about 125k and they are worn out,Good Luck

1990 Ford Bronco II Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Hello,
I am having trouble with the power switch on the drivers door that operates the passenger window. The drivers side switch is only putting out 6 volts, up or down. I am getting 12 volts to the control box. The switch on the passenger door works fine. Window goes up and down with no problem. From what I can tell it seems the block on the drivers side has something wrong. The drivers side window goes up and down with no problems and the lock switch works fine also. I have also changed the switch three times thinking that was the problem!
So, my question to you is what do you think the problem is and where can I buy the parts to fix the problem?
Thanks for your help,
Robert

The passenger side window control switch sends ground through the driver's control switch when the passenger switch is pressed up or down.

There are four Blk wires connected to the driver's power window control switch. They all show to be spliced together and go to the same single ground point.

Due to the age of the vehicle I suspect that one of these Blk ground wires has broken. The most likely place I suspect the break to be is inside of the wire flex boot between the left door and the vehicle body. (between the hinges)

Can you test the four Blk wires at the driver's power window switch connector for continuity to vehicle ground (switch disconnected for this test)?

Roger

Roger,
I can do the test on the ground wires. I will try to do it today, but if I don't get it done I will do it tomorrow. I will send you the results A.S.A.P.!!!
Thanks for your help,
Robert

I'll be here, take your time.

Roger

The question was released so that other technicians may reply.

Is that your desire? If so please release the question and I will stay out of it. Should you want to continue with me, please reply.

Thanks,

Roger

1990 Ford Bronco II Drive Train / Driveline   

how do I remove and replace a clutch in a 1990 bronco ll 4x4?

Same as any other. Remove the drive shaft. Then transfer case, cross-member and trans. You may have to remove the exhaust, just check for clearances. After everything's out of the way, remove the clutch pressure plate and disc, and then the flywheel. Be sure to have the flywheel resurfaced before reinstall.

I also forgot that you will have to remove the shifter assembly from the inside of the truck.
If you need step by step instructions I could get them for you tomorrow.

thank you Are there any special things to look out for, things I need to do that are special to this car, removing or installing. I have a good manual but they never tell you the little things to do. When it is in neutral and running you here a nois like a throwo out bering has square ball berings in it nad this has a hydralic clutch.

Be sure to drain the trans and transfer case before removal. The last thing you want is it spilling fluid all over you.
If you've never done a clutch before, be sure to use the alignment pin that comes in the clutch kit. And tighten the pressure plate down in a criss-cross pattern, only turning the bolts one turn at a time. You don't want to bend the fingers on the plate.
If you run into any problems feel free to ask.

As far as your noise, if it is the throw out bearing, the noise will be present when the clutch is depressed. A noise in neutral could be more of an input shaft bearing, this would also cause a noise while in 4th gear. Just be sure to inspect everything before you reassemble.

How's it coming?

I'm sorry but my manual and brother have told me more. I feel that this was a waste of your time and my money. I've replaced clutches and engines before but not a 4x4. So I am asking for a refund this was not worth $20,

Fair enough. If you do not complete the question, you are not charged for anything.

1990 Ford Bronco II Fuel System   

i had gone to get my truck smogged and it will not pass. they said that the truck is running to rich. i had already replaced the o2 sensors. i brought my truck to pep boys to hook it up to their diagnostic machine and they said i need to change my fuel injectors and catalic converter.any information would be appriciated, thank you,sam....eightyz28@yahoo.com

If it were mine I would run some injector cleaner through the fuel system )lots) and after it is gone, replace the converter(s). Do not run the Bronco through emission testing with injector cleaner in the fuel.
Some methyl alcohol (up to 10%) in fuel tank can lower some readings, If your test includes a test on a roller type dyno,(under load) then over inflte the rear tires 10-15 pounds as this will actually decrease rolling resistance. Fresh oil in motor as well as new airfilter will help.

1990 Ford Bronco II Engine   

1990 ford bronco II automatic 4x4

the car idles fine at warm up - starts with no problems. The temp gauge will not work as the engine warms up - but as I drive, it will rise slightly and then fall back to C. I see no signs of over heating. What could be causing this? Where is the thermostat and sending unit and temp sensor? I don't think it's the gauge itself because the needle does move. Thanks D_T_phillips@msn.com

Hello, Follow the upper radiator hose to where it connects to the engine. The thermostat is under the housing bolted to the engine that the hose connects to.

Look in that same area for the temp gage sending unit.

If the thermostat is stuck open the engine will be slow to warm up and the gage will behave as you have described.

Roger

Is it safe to drive until this issue is fixed?

thank you!!

I believe it is safe to drive. If you need the heater you may find it has poor performance especially at highway speeds.

Roger

1989 Ford Bronco II All Part Groups Slipping When shifting When cold

We have a 1989 Bronco II/4WD. It has set up for a couple of years. We changed all of the fluids and filters. The RPMS seems to have to go too high to shift into first gear. Once you drive it a few minutes and it warms up, it shifts into first fine. Is there some type of adjustment needed? Or are we looking at a new transmission.

Hi;
Sounds like you have a valve sticking in the valve body. I would recommend putting some additive in the transmission. Most auto parts store have different kinds. If this does not work, Might take it to a transmission shop and have them do a pressure check at both when cold and when hot. But as with my experience with your kind of transmission " A4LD ", It's not a very reliable trans. Good Luck Les.

1989 Ford Bronco II Fuel System Malfunction When accelerating Always

My son purchased a 1989 Bronco II with 2.9 v6 and it ran fine for about three months than started having trouble with loss of power. Runs alright around town but can hardly get it up to 60 mph out of town. The rpm's go up when given gas but the speed does not. Have taken it to two mechanics and they have installed a new O2 sensor, map sensor, fuel regulator, checked compression and exhaust system and fuel pressure. Installed new spark plugs and the is firing ok and getting fuel. Acts like transmission is slipping but its not. Got any suggestions?

Hi;
Might want to make sure the transfer case is not half way engaged. If four wheel drive make sure that the linkage is properly adjusted. Good Luck Les.

I forgot to mention that I have unhooked the airconditioner clutch because when it kicked on the idle would go way down to the point of almost dying also when driven for a distance it would die at stops. If the airconditioner relay has a short in it would it cause it to run as I first indicated?

Hi;
The answer to your question would be no.A bad air control valve would cause the engine not to idle up when the ac is on. Thanks Les.

Les, How do I determine if the transfer case is half engaged?

Hi;
Try moving the shifter to 4 wheel high and then low and then neutral. Then put it back in 2 wheel drive. While going down the road if it starts sounding like is slipping put small amount of pressure on the shifter to see if this helps it. Thanks Les.

1989 Ford Bronco II Fuel System Malfunction Happens always Always

i have a 1989 bronco 11 4x4 automatic with a 2.9 litre engine. my fuel gauge always reads full. there is a new pump in the tank and alll fuses are good. i even diconnected all the wires leading oto the pump, and even though it doesn't start the gauge still reads full, the truck runs great except for this one problem , can you help please

You will need to inspect the wire from sending unit in the fuel tank to the front of the truck. Do you have a wiring diagram for your truck?

Hello,

I was wondering what you have found.

will have to check gauge what do you think?

Yes, if there was no problem with the wiring.

Check the gauge and it's nearby circuitry.

Do you have a repair manual that you are using to identify the circuitry?

yes , i just got another gauge cluster and i am going to try that, first if that works well great but if not , well i'm not sure what else to try

This is the only gauge with a problem?

yes the fuel gauge is the only one with a problem

Let me know if the cluster solved your problem.

1989 Ford Bronco II Engine Failing When shifting 

The clutch has been chugging and making noises when the clutch was in. A mechanic somehow fixed it and said i need to have the cluch pushed all the time and in the future would need a new clutch plate. It was running fine until today when I went out and tried to start it. The truck buckled a little and then the clutch fell flat against the board. I checked the clutch fluid and was just just about empty. I filled it up with brake fluid and the clutch came back up off the floor. The problem is now the pressure is weak and it acts like it isnt pushing the hydrolics. I am unable to shift into any gears. Any advice. Could be air in the lines, but I first pumped the cluch a few times with the new fluid in with the top off to oush the air out, then refilled. Not sure if its the slave cylinder or if theres air in the lines. If so, how would I go about bleeding it or checking?

Down at the transmission there is a bleed screw (similar to the brakes) on the slave cylinder. Bleed the air out from that screw and you should have a good feeling pedal again.

The pedal pressure is weak, but like i said its off the floor. Will bleeding allow me to shift gears again?
`

If there is air in the line, it is very difficult to shift. You need to bleed it out.

1989 Ford Bronco II Engine Won't Start When starting Always

I have a 1989 Bronco II that sat outside for about 9 months without being started. The battery went bad in that time and now after replacing it, it will turn over but not start. Thought it was the fuel pump but that checked out ok. I seem to be getting spark but it still sounds like a fuel problem. It will seem to start for a split second then die. Could it be the inline filter? thanks.

First, verify that it is a fuel problem. Add some starting fluid and see if it starts better. Try adding some while someone else starts it for you. If that makes it run, then look at fuel pump, filter, pressure regulator, injectors. Any of these could clog or give problems after being parked for a while.

I tried the starting fluid and no luck. I have some new sparkplugs. I'll put them in and see what the old ones look like. Maybe that will give us a hint on whats going on.

If it won't start with starting fluid, you probably don't have good spark. That would usually come from a bad module or pickup coil.

I tried again with the starter fluid and it just acts like it's flooded. once the starter fluid is used up, it acts as normal with the almost start and die routine. I changed all the spark plugs and checked for spark with a plug out and it has spark. I'm going to replace the fuel filter and then get into the ignition (module and pickup coil) trouble shooting tomorrow. I it like likely to be an ignition problem if I'm getting a spark from the spark plug?

Check the spark more carefully. Remove the wire from the coil at the distributor and see if it jumps a strong steady spark at least 3/4 inch while cranking. If it does, it is OK.

If the spark is OK, maybe the truck is getting flooded. They have had problems with the fuel pressure regulator shutting down and raising the fuel pressure to 90psi. A fuel pressure test will now tell you if there is a regulator, pump or filter problem.

Thanks for the reply. I checked the distributor cap and rotor. They looked pretty bad so I replaced them. I also replaced the fuel filter. Still same problem. I'll check the spark from the coil tomorrow.

Good, that will help pinpoint the root problem.

Finally found the problem. I put a meter on the coil and found that it wasn't getting 12 volts with the key in the run position. I disconnected the wire to the starter and turned the key to the position to crank the engine and got 12 volts. When the key was back to run, lost the 12V. I jumped 12V directly from the battery to the coil and it started right up and ran smooth as silk. I picked up a new ignition switch today and will install when I get time. Thanks for the help.

Very good!

1989 Ford Bronco II Drive Train / Driveline   

replaced clutch packs,seals,thrust washers,bands,and filter now when you put the vehicle in reverse it hesitates for about thirty seconds,then when it goes into reverse it is pretty hard.Once in reverse it acts fine.second problem is that it will not shift into overdrive.Of course it is an A4LD.

how did front pump and cuverter look

1989 Ford Bronco II Ignition System   

I have an '86 A4LD tranny in my '89 Bronco II. I removed a '89 A4LD that was bad. The plug that is in the main wiring harness is a 3 wire plug & does not match the 2 wire plug mounted on the transmission. I am unable to crank the 2.9 engine as I have no power going to the starter solenoid. What do I have to do to jump out the plug to get the engine to start?

Hi, I'm chasing wiring diagrams to get you some help. Back as soon as I can,

Roger

Ok Thanks I really appreciate it

I have been able to download engine controls wiring diagrams for the 1986 & 1989.

I'll need your email address please. I'll send these right to you and see if the answer is there. It does show the electrical path to the starter.

Roger

My email address is: [redacted]

Thank you.

Roger

1989 Ford Bronco II Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

I HAVE A 1989 BRONCO 11 IM FIXING UP IT HAS NO BRAKE LINES ON IT IT HAS ABS SYSTEM I NEED ADIAGRAM FOR THE BRAKE LINES. WHER THE LINES COME OUT OF THE MASTER CYLINDER TO THE ABS VALVE THEN TO FRONT BRAKES AND REAR BRAKES. MAKE SURE IT SHOWS HOW LINES COME OUT OF MASTER CYLINDER TO ABSVALVE THEN TO BRAKES

give me your email adress so I can send it to you

[redacted]

[redacted]

how did it work ?

I am not able to send the diagrams to you at that address the email is undeliverable.
I have attemted it at least 4 times
Is there another Address you can give me to send it?

1989 Ford Bronco II Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I just had a used 1989 2.9L 6 cylinder fuel injected motor put into my 5 speed manual transmission 1989 Bronco 2. Everything works well except the cruse control. The fuses are ok. Any ideas where to start looking.

I'd start looking underhood, to see if there is anything they left unhooked or damaged.

Use the following link for a diagram-

http://autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/0f/92/5c/[redacted] d800f925c/repairInfoPages.htm

Copy and Paste the link into your Address Bar. If the diagram does not match your system, click on 'Electronic Systems' on the right side of the page.

I finally got a chance to look at it. With your help and the pictures from the website I was able to find a hose that was not connected in about two minutes. Thank you so much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

1989 Ford Bronco II Drive Train / Driveline   

My A4LD transmission will not shift into overdrive. It will shift if the controls are bypassed. Is there a common problem for this ?

when u say controls do u mean button?

I took it to an electrical place where the guy connected a jumper to I think was the wire to the solonoids, and went on a road test where he grounded the wire and the transmission shifted. I also have replaced the speed sensor on the transfer case.

so it lost ground or do you still have jumper

Problem found. Open wire between speed sensor connector and connector under hood.

1989 Ford Bronco II Fuel System   

I have a 89 Bronco 4wd, it has spark, it will run if you spray starting fluid in it, The problem is the Injectors are not opening, i have checked all relays that i could find. I put a new Computer in it, The fuel pump is new, and its pumping to the fuel rail. The Electric connectors on the injectors are not getting a signal

I would check all the conections and clean them need be sounds like a bad ground.
Heavychevy

Witch Connections should i check do you think? Also what Ground? I have checked the ground new Batt. and New Computer, What else Controls the Injectors? does the dis. cap or anything there have anything to do with it?

Trace the wires back to the pcm and make sure ther is no break in wire or burnt spots. Usually no power to the rails is a sign of a bad computer if not than it may be bad connection. How did you test for power?

I used a Test node, also with a volt meter, on the Injector Conn. it showed nothing. I just put a new computer in it tonight. Still no running, The fuel rail has Fuel pressure in it. The Engine wont Fire at all. Before it died, it studded at every right turn, when you made a right turn the engine would almost die, Do you have to have the fuel pump Line connected in order for the injectors to fire? Because right now the fuel pump line in running to a different Batt. on The side to make sure we had it running

Also in my repair book i can not find the PCM, its under the dash right? like in the middle? I looked for it before but wasnt sure what it looked like, oh or its behind the glove box? right? Also the Inertia switch would be just for Fuel pump or the whole system?

the switch is for everything the pcm is the computer and in order for it to all work it has as to be connected right now the computer cant tell the pump to work so its not telling the injecters to work.

Ok so PCM is the computer that i just replaced, and the EEC is? Ok so for the fuel pump, it is disconnected, Problem is the kid that this truck belongs to disconnected and put 2 other wires on it that come to the ground, So color code, the fuel pump wires are what color i think the book said Pk/BK and the ground is Black, but there are 2 bk wires and not sure what one i should use. So if the pump is not connected, the injectors wont fire?

Engine Control Computers also known as (ECC, ECM, PCM, Module, EEC, etc. Let melook into the color code for pump. It will take one second. When did this all start and why was a new pump put on and was the pump put onthan it allquit or was the pump put on cause of this issue.

Well i didnt do it, its not my truck, but from what i was told, there was a Problem, Then the pump was put on, Then i guess it ran for a few miles then died.. but now i think about it... He told me 2 different story's, his first story was it died after new pump but now i think about it the pump was put on after it died because he said he didn't want the mechanic to do it because of the cost. Not sure tho, not sure what happened first. I would think the fuel pump was after, but thats not what he said

the wiring for the pump is good pk/bl and ground I would just hook it up and see what after that you were correct about changing and suspecting the pcm cant really be there to see what going onwith the pump and wiring but from what you are telling me we both probly be shacking or heads. I would say just pick one balck wire it only needs one ground anyway. its not showing much in any manuals as for as wiring acceptthat everything has a connecter shouldnt be any loose wiring. Its just a matter of figuring out what was done to try to fix the problem and probly fixing that to.

So you Able to confirm on those fuel pump color codes.

yes

So its Pk/Bk and Bk? or you still looking, also i got 2 black wires not sure what one to use.

how are theyconnected to the pump have they been cut

I'm not sure, From what i was told the wires are sitting up thee i guess... but trying to confirm by seeing the wires below the tank going to it by color, i know he put some other wire on the pump, i also know that the pump wont turn on by key so i guess they are not connected.

Look for the reset button it is located on the toe-board to the right of the transmission hump in the passenger side foot area. Reset that and see if get power to the injecters. Sounds like new pump was installed couldnt get new to work so thought it was wiring and rewired it. It was either the reset button or fuel pump relay. Are you near the bronco now.

Yes give me one second i will go out there and do it, should i reconnet the pump?

yes i would i say just pick one of the black wires I know its not professional but at this point If the pump doest work after resetting change out the relay with another that is close by just to check it. And please get back with me after that.

Ok i put the ground form pump to frame no luck there but i will try the black wire now. The switch was pushed and stuck down, the red button on it, so i pooped it up, but should it be down or up?

shouldbe down dont forget the relay

where did you get the computer at. It still sounds a lot like a bad computer

ok for relay, i just have a 30a fuse, that i know is good is there another relay somewhere?

ALso its the Pink/Black + FP wire right?

the relay will be under hood, driver side, front side of wheelwell, mounted in relay block

what do you mean by that should just have a connecter

Ok, so i confirmed the pk/bk wire is te FP+ wire. At the inrt. Switch, i have power to the switch. Gonna test the switch now, The computer is working because i have power to the switch, i think its switch to FP now right, I Do not have power to the rear FP, i tried both black wires none seem to be giving power or the pk/bk one is not, i should be able to get a ground off the frame right? i got a bare metal spot on it

yeah all you need is bare metal did you switch out the relay under the hood

wire could be damaged fromthe swtich to the pump

Ok i got something weird here, Ok Wire from Switch to Pump, I bypassed the switch, i have 12v at switch. With Pump not connected.. but with pump connected i have nothing, so i think there is something wrong with the pump or the ground or something

how manywires are coming from that pump

hook up both black wires

ok

let me know after that

Lol they must have fucked something up on that fuel pump, the gas gauge dont work, i have power to lines near FP but as soon as FP connected i lose all power, and pump not turning on, so something must be short out, this is with both ground wires being used too. i guess I'm gonna have to pull the tank out and check it all
i need to get some sleep :/

ok if u need anything give me a yell

You will be here tomorrow?

yeap it may take about 10 to 20 minutes tell initial contact back but I will be here

Ok so after working on it all day, here is what i got, The Pump has the wires on it, the whole truck has a good ground, the + pump wire has 12v with a volt meter, but all power drops when something is connected, i tried a light bulb,and it wont light it, i cant figure it out, i tested the frame for ground, and all wires they all have a ground. So the + wire isn't getting power for some reason, The Fuel Relay, is a 30a fuse in the power distrubsion power on the passanger side engine compartment. is there any Relays somewhere else that i cant find?

the relay will be under hood, driver side, front side of wheelwell, mounted in relay block.

Its weird because i cant find it, its in plain site normally isnt it? I see all the fuses on the passenger side wheel wheel, but they are just big fuses.

should be there its got to have a relay

well let me go look, but i have looked for it before and the fuel relay, is a fuse on the passenger side engine compartment

Hello, I read your dialog and never saw you state you have power to the injectors when the key is on. Did I miss that? What engine?

The injectors get power from the EEC Relay when the key is turned on.

The fuel inertia cut out switch has nothing to do with the firing of the fuel injectors.

I'll be out for several hours this morning and if you need to release the question feel free.

Do you need a wiring diagram for the engine controls? I'd need your email address.

Roger

1989 Ford Bronco II Windows / Glass   

hello. Rear window doesn't work. Breaker in fuse box verified OK. No sound from motor vicinity when switch depressed. I really need schematic from switch to motor to locate/check continuity, and basics for accessing motor. and since rear door won't open with window up, how to manually drop window down, with rear door closed. :) Thank you!

The wiring is rather simple from switch to motor.Yellow-red tracer is the up circuit and the tan-black one is the down circuit.
The switch is a "reverse polarity type"
A lt blue-blk wire from fuse #14 and a blk white wire also comes from fuse #12, both going to the switch.Black wires at the switch are both ground circuits.
If the Bronco were mine, I would acess the tan black wire (under carpet ?)remove a little of the insulation and hook a 12v + wire directly to it. If motor still no work then, unfortunatly you have to pry plastic inner panel off (you might damage it, but no alternative)Should be able to find one at an autowrecker.Then you can access motor and regulator for testing/replacement.

hello. You make it sound sooo simple. :) Thanks for this info. I'm going to try to do this in the next 24-48hrs. I'm alittle more layman in terminology, but i think i get the gist of the process..If i still have questions regarding troubleshooting this issue, may i ask you for more assistance??
You seem to have been very thorough in communicating the process, and i thank you!!
(this is my first time ever seeing this site, and i'm greatly impressed, thanks to you!)
Thank you,
~Christi

Glad i can help! I have been working on cars faaaar to long! I currently own 21 cars-trucks lol
Bruce

that's alot of vehicles..lol
well, turns out, the door plate actually states this is an '88, as the wiring colors aren't the same. I was able to figure out what was what.
The issue appears to be in the rear door. Seems all parts, elect & mech, are working properly. There's gapping on one end of the gate. I don't think window's tracking quite straight enough, and hanging up in the upper seal. Dryer than a door nail too! gonna lube it up and see what happens. Told owner to not roll up completely for the time being.
Have any suggestions how to dismantle door to remove/replace any of the parts contained within?? i have access to the arms to lube, but may need to get into it better to check for loose wires/connections, just in case... :) thanks a bunch!!

The inside panel has to come off, then everything visible.A flashight or trouble light helps.The factory grease on linkage dries up.Instead of re-greasing, I usually spray WD-40 on the dry grease.Softens it up nicely.

1989 Ford Bronco II Ignition System   

wont start or take jump start. Tested battery Passed! replaced starter and solenoid

Hello, What engine please? Will the engine crank and not start, or not even crank? Auto or manual transmission?

Please advise,

Roger

1988 Ford Bronco II Engine   

would like the fireing order and to know what plug is #1

what is the #1 cindler

Hello, In order to answer your question I need to know which engine you have.

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, Do you have a 2.9L or 3.0L V6 engine? If so, both/either has a firing order of 1-4-2-5-3-6, the distributor rotates clockwise and #1 cylinder is located on the right (passenger) side of the vehicle at the front of the vehicle.

What else for you this time,Sir?

Roger

Hello, What is happening here, please?

Please advise,

Roger

Hello, Will you please take a moment and give me an update on this question? Thanks!

Merry Christmas,

Roger

Hello, Still want/need help?

Roger

1988 Ford Bronco II Engine  When troubleshooting Always

First is has a 2.9l 4x4 manual with 140,000 on it. It starts right up every time. but when you are at itle it seems to be missing and running rough, as you give it gas it seems to smooth out and revs right up then back fires. You go to pu into gear to go down the road and it acts like there is no power. I have checked timing even checked to see if it jumped timing tearing the timing chaincover off but everything was fine. changed both fuel filters, rotor, cap, sparkplugs, wires. All getting spark and fuel pumps are both running need help and lost?

You are saying:
"Try disconnecting and plugging the egr valve. Does this improve idle?

If not it's probably time to check the camshaft and compression.

By the way, have you checked for troublecodes?"

1988 Ford Bronco II Engine Stalling When starting When cold

the fuel pump comes on when i turn the key.but when i start it the rpm goes to 3000 then stalls.after a few tries it will run for a little while but the rpms go from 500 to 1500.the only way to keep it running is to keep my foot on the gas. any ideas?

Look for a major vacuum leak.
Disconnect and block off the egr valve. Any change?
Pinch off the hose to the brake booster. Any change?
Does the check engine light stay on?

didn't solve the problem

Does the check engine light stay on? If it does check troublecodes.

Check the idle speed motor. Block off the air passage and see if idle is normal or low enough to stall the engine. This will check the mechanical condition of the engine vs a computer controlled problem.

the check engine light doesn't come on and i took off the idle speed motor and cleaned it but still runs rough and pings. could it be a timing problem?

Yes it could be the timing. I would verify valve timimg by performing a compression check. And then check ignition timing. If you need assistance with these steps autozone.com has free vehicle repair guides.

When does the engine ping? Pinging is usually caused by a lean fuel mixture, carbon buildup, timing, or insufficient egr flow.

1988 Ford Bronco II Fuel System Failing When driving When warm 

I run a mail route about 4 hours long. bronco runs good for about 3.5 to 4 hours. I never switch off my bronco and this is stop and go solid. After this time and only when the weather is hot the bronco starts to spudder and goes dead. It will crank up and go dead again. After it cools for about an hour it will crank up and go on like nothing has happen. It does this every hot day. What breaking down .
thanks
wb

you need to check your ignition coil
if electronic ignition replace your coilpac what happens is 5the colil windind get so hot anyway and the added heat from the engine is causing you to lose your much need high voltage arc
macconek

Hello
Were you able to take care of that problem?
did and were you able to use my advise?
do you still need more info?
I would like to know the outcome
thanks macconeck

I did not hear bacvk from you on this question how did it work out?

1988 Ford Bronco II Engine Malfunction When driving Always

I have a bronco 2 i flushed the motor now it seams that i mite have cloged the oil pump when it is idling no oil lite but when you rev it up to drive the lite comes on & there is a chattering in the motor! Do you have to drop the oil pan to get to the oil pump? I hope not!!!!!!!!

Hi;
You can try this and about 70% of the time it does. Empty out all the oil and reinstall the drain plug. Fill up the oil pan with a gallon of mineral spirits. " DO NOT START THE ENGINE ". Let sit overnight. Drain all the mineral spirits from it. Buy about two quarts of real cheap oil. Pour it in and let sit for about 1 hour. Drain it again. Put your regular oil in and let idle for about 1 hour. If this does not fix it you will have to pull the motor and replace the pump and screen. Good Luck Les.

there is a way of cleaning out your oil cooling system that works well
put in a gallon of diesel fuel in the engine and run your car for a half hour.this will thin the oil out and clear the portsI know this will do the trick you should never have to pull the oil pump.
I hope this helps

1988 Ford Bronco II Engine  When driving When warm 

My engine looses power after it has been driven and warmed up . I loose the RPM's and car will only go about 40 MPH. Had a mechanic check all electrical systems as well as fuel pressure and ehaust. Hehas run out of ideas short of re building engine. He mentioned a backfire on the in take. Any Ideas would be of value

Hello, What engine do you have, please? Has a compression test been done? The lowest cylinder compression reading must not be less than 85% of the highest cylinder reading.

What did your mechanic say as to exhaust restriction in the catalytic converter and/or muffler?

Has the timing been checked? Has the timing belt been replaced? How many miles since? A backfire through the intake manifold can be timing related.

Roger

Hello?, Is your question still active?

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, any change in the status of this question?

Just checking in with you,

Roger

Still need help here?

Thanks,

Roger

1988 Ford Bronco II Electrical / Lighting Systems  When idling Always

check engine light came on,would like to know what systems are tied into the check engine? it comes on and goes off,when it comes on it is alittle sluggish and sometimes stalls.

What you need to do is check for trouble codes stored in the computer. Do a google search on "diagnosing ford trouble codes", you will find numerous sites that offer instructions on retrieving codes.

Retrieve the codes and let us know what you find.

1988 Ford Bronco II Engine Overheating When driving 

MY '88' FORD BRONCO II IS STARTING TO OVERHEAT WHEN DRIVING AND GETS WORSE AS I INCREASE IN SPEED ESPECIALLY HIGH SPEEDS (60MPH) ALSO WHEN IDLEING IT HEATS UP. EVEN WHEN THE A/C IS OFF. BOTH RADIATOR HOSES HAVE BEEN REPLACED AND THE FAN CLUTCH, RADIATOR FLUSHED WATER PUMP IS FINE AND I TOOK THE THERMOSTAT COMPLETELY OUT. I KNOW I NEED SOME VALVE COVER GASKETS, BUT THAT SHOULD NOT CAUSE IT RUN HOT LIKE IT IS DOING. TRUCK HAS 178,000 MILES 5 SPEED W/ OD MANUAL TRANS, 2.9L V6, A/C, POWER STEERING.USED TO RUN VERY COOL.

Are you losing any coolant? If you are you need to check for a blown head gasket. You can either have a radiator shop 'sniff' the coolant for the presense of exhaust gases. Or rent (for a fully refundable deposit) a tool that is used to pressurize the cooling system and see if it leaks down. This tool is available at Autozone (there are other stores that offer this service, call ahead).

BTW- How did you check the water pump? Did you observe coolant flow through the radiator?

I AM NOT LOSING ANY COOLANT, AND THE WATER PUMP WAS CHECKED BY A MECHANIC AND HE SHOWED ME IT WAS IN GOOD WORKING CONDITION AT A PIT STOP MECHANIC SHOP. WE OBSERVED FLOW THROUGH THE RADIATOR AND BOTHE HOSES.

If the impellers on the water pump are good and it continually pumps coolant through the system-

1. You have exhaust gases entering the cooling system (IE- blown head gasket)

2. The radiator is partially blocked and not doing it's job (flushing will not always work)

3. The new fan clutch is defective (slim chance but must be checked)

With a cold engine-

1.Remove the radiator cap
2. Start the engine and allow it idle
3. Over the next several minutes observe coolant flow through the radiator

Do you see any air bubbles? Use caution because at anytime the coolant could spray out. Always use extreme caution around moving engine parts.

FYI- With the thermostat out, normally the engine will not reach peak operating temperature and will be less efficient. In rare circumstances engine damage can occur.

Let me know what you find.

1988 Ford Bronco II Electrical / Lighting Systems Failing Happens always 

"I WAS DRIVING MY 1988 BRONCO II AND BOTH HEADLIGHTS WENT OUT. THEY WILL NOT WORK ON BRIGHT EITHER. IT HAPPENED BEFORE AND THEY WORKED ON BRIGHT AND IT WAS THE DIMMER SWITCH. NO FUSES ARE BLOWN AND ALL OTHER LIGHTS WORK. IT HAD A NEW MULTIFUNCTION LIGHT SWITCH PUT IN ABOUT 7 MONTHS AGO, AND A NEW DIMMER SWITCH ABOUT 9 MONTHS AGO. THE BRIGHT SWITCH DOES NOT CLICK EITHER WHEN APPLIED IT JUST MOVES FREELY. THE DIMMER SWITCH IS IN THE COLLAR. I ALSO TRIED ANOTHER HEADLIGHT AND THAT DID NOT WORK EITHER"

Hi,
If the dimmer switch is moving freely, that is likely the source of the problem. Sounds like it is time for another one. The quick failure makes me think it is either a cheap/sub-standard part, or installed poorly so that it cracked. Pay close attention to detail!
Dale

1988 Ford Bronco II Engine Overheating When accelerating 

I HAVE A '88' FORD BRONCO II WITH 177,000 MILES. WHEN I ACCELERATE TO SPEEDS OF 55MPH OR GREATER AND MAINTAIN THAT SPEED THE ENGINE OVERHEATS, IT TAKES THE TEMPERATURE ABOUT 5-10 MINUTES TO REACH THE RED ZONE. WHEN I STOP TO LET IT COOL DOWN THE WATER/ANTIFREEZE FLOWS OUT OF THE RESEVOIR OVERFLOW TUBE. THE TRUCK HAS BEEN SITTING SINCE JANUARY OF THIS YEAR WHEN I WENT TO IRAQ.THIS STARTED ABOUT MAY OF THIS YEAR WHEN I RETURNED IT DID IT ONCE. IN JUNE I FLUSHED THE RADIATOR WITH A HOME KIT AND PUT NEW WATER & ANTIFREEZE IN IT. THE TRUCK THEN DID IT AGAIN DRIVING FROM FLORIDA TO GEORGIA IN JUNE OF THIS YEAR SO I PULLED INTO A REST STOP AND WAITED UNTIL THE WEATHER COOLED DOWN (NIGHT TIME) AND DROVE THE REST OF THE WAY IT WAS NOT SO BAD THEN CAUSE I COULD DRIVE ABOUT 65-70 MPH IT WOULD STILL RUN HOTTER THAN NORMAL BUT NOT OVERHEAT. NOW IT IS WORSE CAUSE IT OVERHEATS AT SPEEDS OF 55 MPH WHEN MAINTAINED FOR AROUND 10-15 MINUTES AND IF THE SPEED INCREASES SO DOES THE TEMPERATURE. THE TRUCK HAD A NEW FAN CLUTCH PUT IN IN SEPTEMBER OF 2003 AND I PUT NEW RADIATOR HOSES AND TOOK THE THERMOSTAT OUT IN THE SUMMER OF 2004. THE HEATER IS NOT HOOKED UP BECAUSE I NEED A HEATER CORE SO THE HEATER HOSE JUST LOOPS BACK INTO THE ENGINE BLOCK. I KNOW IT NEEDS VALVE COVER GASKETS FOR SURE. THE LAST WATER PUMP IT HAD PUT ON WAS ABOUT 8-10 YEARS AGO. THERE IS NO WATER IN MY OIL AND NO WHITE STEAM IN THE EXHAUST SO I DO NOT THINK IT IS THE HEAD GASKETS.

Hello,
Welcome home from Iraq. Thank God you are safe.

I would first start by testing the radiator cap to see if it will hold pressure. If the system cannot pressurize properly the coolant will boil.

Next I would replace the engine cooling thermostat. You might examine the old one to see if it has stuck partially open. Stuck means restricted coolant flow and results in overheating. It is cheap to just replace the thermostat and I seldom spend much time testing the old one. The thermostat is located in the housing where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine.

I'd also look to see if the air can get through the radiator and a/c condensor so that heat can transfer.

Any help?,

Roger

AS OF LAST YEAR I HAVE BEEN RUNNING THE TRUCK WITHOUT A THERMOSTAT. I WILL JUST PURCHASE A RADIATOR CAP SINCE THEY ARE INEXPSENSIVE. IF ALL THAT FAILS WHAT ARE SOME MORE POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS. THE RADIATOR IS NEW (2YEARS) AND IN GOOD CONDITION AND THE AC CONDENSOR HAS SOME MINOR DAMAGE TO THE HONEYCOMB PART.

WHICH THERMOSTAT SHOULD I USE? 160 DEGREE / 180 DEGREE / 192/195 OR THE 200 PLUS?

The 192/195 unless your ambient temperatures frequently get above 100 degrees. Then I would use the 180.

Minor damage to the condensor fins will not be cause for concern here.

possible solutions would be a professional cooling system flush using and machine with high pressure to flush the engine block but not the radiator. Finally, a new water pump could be considered but I doubt it is needed until the coolant free flow (circulation) can be assurred unimpaired.

A 50/50 (water/coolant) ratio is needed in the cooling system. Too much coolant doesn't cool as well as 50/50 and too much water allows corrossion.

Roger

1988 Ford Bronco II Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction Happens always 

MY FORD BRONCO II CLUTCH IS MALFUNCTIONING. THE PROBLEM STARTED ABOUT TWO DAYS AGO WHEN I NOTICED THAT IN ORDER TO ENGAGE THE CLUTCH IT HAD TO BE TO THE FLOOR, ALSO IF I LET UP ON THE CLUTCH THE SLIGHTEST LITTLE BIT IT ENGAGES. I SEEM TO BE LOSING PRESSURE IN THE CLUTCH & THE GEARS ARE SHIFTING ROUGHER OR "GETTING HARDER TO FIND" I ASSUME DUE TO THE CLUTCH. IT IS A FIVE SPEED (OVERDRIVE) MANUEL. THE CLUTCH FLUID IS FINE AT A GOOD LEVEL NOT LOSING ANY CLUTCH FLUID.

Does the clutch pedal feel different when you push it down? If it does you can try bleeding the clutch slave cylinder to see if there is any improvement. Let me know-

YES, THE PEDAL DOES FEEL DIFFERENT, I WILL TRY BLEEDING THE SYSTEM.

Okay, bleed it enough to displace all the old fluid with new. Unfortunately parts will probably need to be replaced, but bleeding with fresh fluid is worth a shot.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH THE BLEEDING WORKED AND REPLACING WITH FRESH FLUID.

1988 Ford Bronco II Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving No pattern

MY 1988 FORD BRONCO II, ABOUT A YEAR AGO THE DIMMER SWITCH (IN THE STEERING COLUMN) WENT OUT AND I REPLACED IT MYSELF BUT I NOTICED THAT WHEN REPLACING IT THE WIRE HARNESSES THAT PLUGS INTO THE DIMMER SWITCH LOOKED LIKE IT HAD BEEN BURNED OUT AND THE PLASTIC WAS PARTIALLY MELTED ABOUT THREE MONTHS LATER THE MULTIFUNCTION LIGHT SWITCH WENT OUT AND I HAD THAT REPLACED. ABOUT THREE MONTHS AFTER THAT THE DIMMER SWITCH WENT OUT AGAIN. NOW, WENT I CUT MY LIGHTS ON THERE IS A DELAY FROM THE TIME I PULL THE LIGHT SWITCH UNTIL THE HEADLIGHTS ACTUALLY COME ON, AND WHEN I AM DRIVING I NOTICED THAT SOMETIMES THAT LIGHTS CUT OFF AND COME RIGHT BACK ON BUT THERE IS NO PARTICULAR PATTERN OF WHEN THIS HAPPENS. WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM.

It really sounds like you'll need to check the connector that appeared burnt. It will likely need replacing. It may be temporarily shorting kicking the circuit breaker (which resets automatically) or simply high resistance causing an open circuit.

For test purposes you could wiggle the connector while the headlights are turned on and see if this cause the lights to flicker. This would prove the connector was the problem.

1988 Ford Bronco II Ignition System Won't Start  

My Ford BroncoII 1988 will not start. I got it out the shop about 3 days ago for valve cover gaskets and a waterpump. When I got the truck back I changed the distributor cap and rotor and the plug wires. The truck ran fine and I parked it last night and this morning it would not start. There is fire going to the coil, and the fuel pump is working. The engine turns strong but it will not crank, the lights and radio are working, I even tried jumping the battery to just eliminate some problems and still nothing. I put a new MAP sensor on and still it won't start. The truck did this same thing before about 6 months ago but it eventually started after about 30 minutes. Now it will not start at all. It is a 2.9l V6 manuel trannsmission.Prior to putting the wires on I noticed it was idleing a little rough and sluggish and the RPM's were fluctuating at idle so I adjusted it so it would idle a little higher and it seemed fine. All the plug wires are on good and have good contact.

O.K. let me try and understand this. Was the changing of the parts you state under the advise of the shop that did the prior repairs? You also state the engine turns strong but will not crank. I take it by this the motor turns over but will not fire. At this point I have to take some wild guesses. First off, you say you get power to the coil, is there spark at the plugs? Next point I would look at is if there is fuel accually entering the fuel galley. You say you adjusted the idle before hand. Is it a normally asperated engine or an EFI. If no fuel is present at either of these and the fuel pump is working and spark it present at the plug, you have a fuel problem. Depending on the type of carubation you have it could be the carb, throttle body or TPS sensor. With some more info I may be able to help you through.
Good Luck,
Paul

It is in an EFI and I did the repairs under my own discretion the shop did not tell me I needed the wires, cap, and rotor

My next read would be, if spark is present at plugs( you can check this by puling a plug and ground it while cranking)I would start looking at the before mentioned TSP and quite possibly a MAF of ECM, all of whitch would require a scanning device to gather information from the ECM. Check with your repair shop or with your local parts houses. Some are offering this diagnostic check for free or at a nominal cost.
Good Luck,
Paul

1988 Ford Bronco II Heating / Cooling System   

no matter the setting the heat in my bronco 2 wont blow but it is hot

The first thing you want to check is the fusebox to see if there is a blown fuse
If the fuses are good then you want to check for power at the heater motor with the switch turned on , check for 12 volts.
I hope this helps

1988 Ford Bronco II Fuel System   

I have a 1988 Ford Bronc 2 that the gas gauge continually reads empty even with a full tank of gas. I recently have replaced the fuel pump and sending unit in the fuel tank, checked all the wires they are good, along with all relays. Checked the fuses they are good. Replaced the gauge itself and it is good. I can't think of anything else. Just the fuel gauge is not working everything else is. What could it be???

I will look at the diagram to get more information

The fuel gauge system has a few mor componets involved in it.
There is a wire [Black/lt green] coming from your ignition switch that connects to a instrument voltage regulator and it may be malfunctioning.
Are you sure that the coolant temp gauge and the oil pressure gauges are working properly? it is possible that it is aff3ewcting the fuel gauge only.
I have a couple of diagrams that I can send you to troubleshoot it if you like just send me an email address
Hope this helps

Will also need to get your engine size and amount of tanks .
your exact information on the car

It is a 2.9L fuel inj motor... It only has one gas tank and I am not sure how big it is.

there is no other gauges malfunctioning.

email address is [redacted]

ok I sent it let me know what gives

I already had these diagrams but thank you. I have checked all the wires leading from the fuel tank to the gauges non of them are bad.

the instrument voltage regulator could still be bad

Ok where is the instrument voltage regulator? I followed the Black lt/green wire into the engine bay to little black box like thing.

yes that will be the regulator
A question do you have dual fuel tanks on your bronco?

No I have only one tank on the Bronco.

ok then it will be the basic circuit that we covered already
regulator

I looked up "instrument voltage regulator" on Auto zone the part they gave me looks nothing like the one the blk/lt green wire is going to.

It looks like a relay.

It may look simuliar to a relay but if the wiring is correct that should lead to a vvoltage regulator

The Voltage regulator is good... so it isn't that.

The othere componets that you replace can be malfunctioning also
you can disconect the coolant temp gauge and the oil pressure gauge to isolate it from the fuel gauge to make sure that it is not being shorted by them and then work your way back toward the tank

Hi, What is your email address please? I'll send you a checklist for testing the gauge.

Thanks,

Roger

The gauge is good but just in case my email is [redacted]

All right, this info may help. I'll send it too you.

I'll have to switch computers so I can scan to email. The info text talks about different models. You'll notice at the top of the page the search is relative to the 1988 Ford Bronco II.

I hope it is helpful in some way.

Roger

1988 Ford Bronco II Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I recently lost voltage to my headlights low/high beams parking/brake/turn lights are fine also light out warning module is out as well low fuel light still lights.unable to find wiring guide for the module! any ideas?? thanks jeff

Hi Jeff,

What is your email address please? I'll send you a wiring diagram to review. Then let's find the problem.

Thanks,

Roger

Thanks Roger, my email address is [redacted]

I'll get it done right away.

Roger

What else for you sir?

Roger

Jeff, Haven't heard from you in awhile. What's up?

Roger

1988 Ford Bronco II Fuel System   

my 88 bronco2 ran fine when i parked it for about 2 months in garage(not hot weather) wouldn't start after that. no fuel to engine has spark,is there some sort of reset inside on front passenger side, changed pump on frame, ran about 1 minute,quit,is there another pump in gas tank?

Two fuel pumps, one in tank and the other higher pressure one along the frame inline.I hope your gas tank is not full!

1988 Ford Bronco II Drive Train / Driveline   

Considering purchase of a 1988 Ford Bronco II Eddie Bauer edition 4WD. Has 2.9 V6 linked to 4-speed auto trans. Push button 4WD. 103,000 miles.

Current owner reports that tranny shifts into higher gears around 3,000 rpm. Although I know very little about transmissions, it seems to me tranny should shift from gear to gear at a lower rpm.

He reports having fluid changed late last year at about 100,000. Says guy at transmission shop told him there is nothing wrong with tranny. Whether or not this guy specifically asked about rpms when shifting is beyond me.

What could cause this and what would be ballpark figure to repair?

Owner also tells me the engine has a tapping noise. Says a mechanic told him that was normal for 2.9 V6. What are your thoughts on tapping?

Thanks so much,
Steve Smith

Late shifts could be something simple like tv cable adjustment, in which case the transmission thinks the throttle is being pressed firmly to pass another car (trans is shifted lower to provide more power).

The engine tapping could be light valve train noise common with old push rods engines when they started to wear.

The transmission problem could also be internal and eventually start slipping and require a rebuild or replacement. This would likely cost more than the vehicle is worth.

The engine tapping could also be a sign of a worn or damaged engine. There could be a lack of oil pressure (usually bad news).

If the tap is lower in the engine it could be a rod that will only get worse and ruin the engine. This is somewhat common in heavy vehicles (4 wd's) etc with undersized engines, especially prone to failure when worked hard.

I recommend against purchase at this point. It would be nice if you could take the vehicle to a shop that can check the vehicle over before you buy. Note to them the tapping and late shift. Make sure they test drive and listen, you don't want them shooting from the hip.

What is the price?

Hello:

Thank you VERY MUCH for the advice. After reading what you had to say about tranny and engine noise I believe I will not purchase after all.

His price is $1,200. On Edmunds.com that amount is approx. halfway between private party and dealer retail price values.

Again, thanks.

Steve Smith

It may be fine, but I consider it gambling at this point.

The price is a bit high, unless in great shape WITHOUT mechanical maybe's.

Let me know if you find another vehicle or have additional questions on the bronco.

Thanks Doug:

Your input has been extremely valuable to me and has saved me from buying what could have been a lot of expensive problems.

Steve Smith

Hey Doug:

Below is how the guy has advertised the truck. It is listed on ebay, but his location is very close to mine -- about 80 miles.


For Sale in this auction in a Rare 1988 Ford Bronco II, EDDIE BAUER EDITION, 2.9lt V6 Motor, Push Button 4 Wheel Drive (4x4 works), Automatic Overdrive Transmission (on the floor), with a 4 inch $750 LIFT KIT!!! The safety notices are clearly visable on the visor for Law Enforcement Information. This has Brand New Tires (31 x 10.50 x 15), Cruise Control, Tilt Steering, Rear Windshield Wiper, Tow Hitch Bumper, Power Windows, Power Door Locks, Power Seats, and Much More (SEE PICTURES). RUNS AND DRIVES!!

This Bronco is in great condition for its age.

Parts Replaced: 4 inch Lift Kit (with Reciept) $750, New Tires $600 (with Reciept), Front Windshield Replaced (with Reciept and Warranty) $220, Fuel Pump and computer (before I got it), Tune up- Plugs, Wires, Cap, Rotor, and Timeing Adjusted. New Exaust System (front to back) converted from 2 small catalatic converters to 1 big one $150. All work done by certified mechanics. Tranny Fluid changed at 102,000 miles. Oil changed every 3,000 miles. ALL Wheel Bearings were REPACKED in July of 2007. ALL WORK WAS DONE THROUGHOUT 2007.

What needs to be done: allignment, trasmission- RPM's go to 3000 before shifting in higher gears (I don't know if that is normal or not, it seems to run and drive fine). Fuel Injection System Cleand (I haven't done that, yet). Pick up power is great, but when it gets warm cruiseing speed power not so good. It'll run 60 mph without a problem when it's cool to warm. It's had a tapping sound since I bought it a year ago, that doesn't seem to affect it. The Mechanics say that is "NORMAL" for the 2.9 Liter V6 Motors.

What I suggest: 12.50 Tires instead of the 10.50's that are on it. The Back Seats fold up and Lay down flat. It has a spare tire holder on the outside (I never had a spare, so it's not included).

If it's something you really want it is worth considering, but still not something I'd want because it has several problems now. And, with vehicles, more problems are sure to come. You may end up working on it more that driving it.

BTW- It is nearly impossible to tell if fuel injectors need "cleaning." You can observe spray pattern, etc and prove blockage (I'm sure this hasn't been done) at which point cleaning may or may not work. Not all blockage is soluble in cleaner or gets blown out under pressure. I think they are speculating cleaning the injectors will alleviate that problem.

Hi Doug:

Your expert input is greatly appreciated. Think I'll pass on this Bronco.

Am looking for a RELIABLE 4WD as I am a new minister in a county that is renown for nothing being done to roads. When it snows, they do not salt, plow, or anything. With Spring rains coming now, many of the roads are mud with some gravel on top!

As a minister, particularly in a country church, a big part of my job is getting around to visit with folks who are sick, or whatever.

Thanks again for your valuable feedback.
Steve

1988 Ford Bronco II Ignition System   

i need to remove and replace the ignition control module from the back of the distributor. i have the part but i cant figure out what the two fasteners are. i think they are bolts, maybe 7/32 , but maybe theyre tamperproof torx? i dont think so but i cant get anything to fit (havent tried the 7/32, had limited tools earlier today.) if you know what the size is, please help.

Copy and paste the following link into your address bar-

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/0f/87/ed/[redacted] d800f87ed/repairInfoPages.htm

Have you removed the distributor from the engine? A mirror may aid in screw identification.

1988 Ford Bronco II Fuel System   

Bronco, No Start condition. No signal to fuel pump. Fuse good, Relay replaced. Drove vehicle in. Removed fuel pump fuse and un-plugged module to perform compression test. Plugged module back in, replaced fuse, no start. Made sure pins were not bent on Module. Checked for power both sides of fuse and test light lite. Can not find any fusable links.

I can't get over the fact that I drove it in, unplugged two things and now have a problem.

Make sure you have power on both sides of the fuse (one end of test light/ volt meter to a known good ground, and other to fuse terminals).

You local auto aparts store should be able to test the module off the vehicle, call ahead.

Do you have spark to plugs? Will it start (or fire momentarily) if you spray a small amount of carb cleaner into a live vacuum hose (or the throttle body)?

I do have power at both sides of the fuse. I do have continous spark during cranking.

Okay, is the relay clicking on during engine cranking?

No clicking noise is heard when key is turned to "on" position nor is there a clicking noise during cranking.

1988 Ford Bronco II Engine   

brfonco dosent star i have a new starter but now it make tactactac noise and the starter dont work coul it be my relai

Yes it can be the starter relay, (simple fix) or a bad battery cable. Ensure your battery cables are clean at the ends and are tightly connected.
Also the battery should be fully charged.Check date on battery and consider replacing it if it is 5 yrs old or older (average batt life) Winter is coming, and a marginal battery might let you down!

1988 Ford Bronco II Heating / Cooling System   

I have a 1988 bronco 11, a few days ago on my way to work smoke came into the interior thru the defrost vent. I found a small antifreeze leak on the passenger side under the hood but did not see where it was coming from. At night on the way home the window will fog up,I have to wipe it down every couple of minutes. Can't find a leak,don't smell antifreeze.

I am guessing it is the Heater Core, but it might be the hose connection at the heater core.Do not just tighten down the clamp. If the hose is dry and hard, you might consider new hoses.You are right about the "no antifreeze smell" but it still might be the heater core.It might be a small leak that is dripping from the heater core and running down the hose.

1988 Ford Bronco II Ignition System   

My bronco2 was runing fine, but when i went to start it i would have to pump the clutch to get it to start, and after driving for a day or a hour she would have to cool down before she would start. and now she wont start at all! I had to get a tow truck driver to tow me back home, And once i got there he said to replace the starter rely! so i did and the only way i can drive my truck is to take a screw driver and connect the bolts on the starter rely! please help i love this truck!! ( i have a 87 ranger that i can use for parts that runs fine)

Check the clutch safety switch. The one on a manual Ranger should be the same. Let me know if this is the problem and we'll continue as necessary.

First off, where would i find the clutch safety switch ? i googled it and i looked in my hanyes repair manual. and i forgot to say that i was told that the battery was to small for the bronco, so i changed it with the rangers which was almost three times the size of the one in there lol. but that did do any thing.would it maybe be the starter? b/c i turn the key with the clutch in and all i get is the electronics on. and i would love to just bring it to you guys, cuz i'm in victoria as well. but not till i get a job. so hoping thats soon!

1987 Ford Bronco II Engine Won't Start Happens always When cold

Have an 1987 Bronco 2 2.9L that will not start when cold. Put a new oxygen sensor in it the other day and the next day it would not start. Checked for spark which it has and checked the fuel pressure and it came right up. Next checked the spark plugs and they were all foiled, replaced those and the wires and it started up, then tried to restart it and it had some hesitation but started. Would start fine when it was warm but with a little hesitation. NExt morning when it was cold wouldn't start. Got it started with starting fluid and it ran fine and would restart once warm but again with hesitation. So I pulled out the new oxygen sensor and put back in the old one. Started with no hesitation about three times, then even though it was warm was having troubles starting, so I pulled the battery negative cable to reset the computer and seemed to fix it. THis morning when it was cold went out to start it and it wouldn't start. ANy ideas?

Sounds to me as though you are dumping to much fuel.Your fuel pressure should be between 35-45 psi,If it is any higher you have a bad fuel pressure regulator.The other thing could be the map sensor(mounted above the intake at the firewall with one vac line,will have a 9B479# on it)Check it to see if the line has a jelly like material,if so replace .The map sensor could be telling the engine it needs more fuel than it needs causing it to flood out,without a map tester it is hard to tell,GOOD LUCK,Dave

THe fuel pressure goes right up to and stabalizes at 40 psi, the map sensor appears to be in good condition with no gel. The only reason i believed it fouled the plugs out so bad before was becasue I was trying to crank it so much and it wasn't catching, but I don't know.

The fuel pressure is fine and the map sensor looks fine but have no way to test it. Engine cranks but does not want to catch when it's cold and has problems when it somewhat warm too.

Pulled the negative battery cable for five minutes to reset the computers and now their is no spark, getting worse and worse. Totally confused.

1987 Ford Bronco II Drive Train / Driveline   

My question is my 1987 Bronc II able to be towed behind a motorhome on a tow bar. If yes what is the proper instructions for doing so. Thank You

i dont know if your truck is maual or automatic but, what i would do is remove the drive shaft when you tow, that way it wont put miles on the truck as your dragging it along and you wont have to worry about it jumping into gear when your rolling 60 mph. it should be pretty simple and quick to remove the drive shaft, it unbolts from the yoke on the axle. you may need a cap for the trans to keep the fluid from running out of the tail shaft

If you want more input i need to know if its auto or manual and 2 or 4 wheel drive.

1987 Ford Bronco II Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise When accelerating Always

When accelerating from a stop, grinding noise comes from (apparently) the rear-end and the car appears to be laboring. This lasts until a speed of about 10MPH is reached, when the noise/laboring ceases. wise, vehicle runs great considering 276K miles on original engine. 4WD, auto, 2.9 V6.

OOn those Bronco II's they usually have a rear constant velocity style driveline. They can cause what you are experiencing. Crawl under the vehicle, grab the driveshaft and try and move it side to side. Watch the rear, where the shaft mates to the rear flange. I expect you will find a lot of movement and if you were to jack up the rear wheels and let them be free turning, you would hear your noise you are experiencing. That CV joint can be replaced by taking the shaft to a good driveline servicing company. A new shaft, if it is still available, is a quite spendy item.
Good luck and let me know if this isn't your answer. Bill

1987 Ford Bronco II Engine Stalling When idling When warm 

engine seems to run fine when cold. idles warm,until you crack the throttle. then dies. will not restart until it cools off. completly baffeled. any ideas?

Hi;
Sounds like the Tps is not working. Need to have a diagnostic test done. Without the codes we will be guessing. Good Luck Les

are you refering to the sender or switch on the side of the throttle body? If I play with the adjustment screw I can keep it running while it's hot ( turn the screw out) but it wont start hot. If I turn the screw in it will start but idles too fast. also I have removed and cleaned the throttle body. but Iam suspecting this switch because it seems to effect the problem the most.

Hi;
I'm refering to the switch. Thanks Les.

replaced the tps and the map senser runs great but still will not start warm. awful rich. what's next.no longer dies when throttle applied warm.

Hi;
Still need to pull codes. Might have a bad coolant sensor or IAC motor. Thanks Les.

ok how do I pull the codes?

Hi;
You can buy a code reader at your local auto parts store or take it to a shop. The OBDS tester will pull any codes out of the computer. There is two test you will have to do. The KOEO (key on engine off ) test and the KOER ( key on engine running ) test. Good Luck Les.

Hi; Still waiting for your reply. Thanks

1987 Ford Bronco II Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction Happens always No pattern

Hi. I have a 1987 Bronco II with an automatic transmission. 240,00 miles and minimal problems until now. About 6 months ago when the weather turned cold it began having trouble shifting into 2nd gear until the engine/tranny warmed up about a mile down the road. Then last night going up a hill it just started losing power. The engine didn't seem to be turning the transmission at all. I made it to a parking lot and let it sit for a few minutes. I started it again, put it into gear, and it moved out fine. However, when I stepped on the brake and went to turn onto the street again, all power was gone again. So I shut it off, let it sit and cool, then started it again. It went into reverse fine, got me to a parking spot, but when I hit the brakes again and let off, all power was gone again. I got it home by towing it. I messed with it again this afternoon and it went into forward gears initially. It didn't care when I stepped on the brake. It went into reverse once after a 2 second pause, then it wouldn't go into reverse at all.
Also, It has plenty of fluid, maybe a little too much even. If it makes any difference, I had the transmission fluid flushed and replaced for $60 about 20,000 miles ago. I think they used Dextron-mercon fluid like it says on the dipstick.
Thanks in advance for your help. You have a great site. After 2 hours on the net looking for info, your site is the best I've found.
Thanks,
Rob Hamilton
drbub22@hotmail.com

Unless the filter is plugging and starving the pump for fluid you have serious trouble that will require a rebuild or replacement. It sounds like you had a faulty valve (they had their share of problems) for shifting to 2nd, but now have worse trouble like pump failure/etc. All I can really do is speculate from here, sorry I don't have better news.

You could remove the pan on the transmission and see how much junk/debri has collected- if you find 'chunks' it's a sign of serious damage. Some people try additives like Lucas TranX (and another popular brand I can't think of at the moment)to 'fix' a failing trans, I don't think it'd help your problem but thought I'd put all options on the table.

1987 Ford Bronco II Engine  When starting Always

we recently replaced a shorted wire on my 1987 bronco 2 it went to the alternator it melted all the way around to the fusable links at the firewall now when we start the truck the throttle goes all the way open and the truck over revs we have to turn the ignition off to stop it you can even watch the pedal move towards the floor. Where should I check for a short or is it something more simple or am i dealing with a possesed Bronco LOL THanks for your help.

Check the wiring to the idle control (fast idle) motor. It is the only thing that could make the pedal move.

Ok I will where is the fast Idle control motor located

Which engine do you have?

Hey you are great I found the idle motor and you were right I had removed two vacum lines and they were replaced in the wrong places THanks for all your help John

1987 Ford Bronco II Drive Train / Driveline Won't Start Happens always Always

trans was not shifting correctly, then, at wide open throttle, engine bogs out. Now it wont start at all. replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor. loosened distributor, and moved to compensate for the 180,000 miles on it.no luck. Checked timing with dist. at #1cycl. at tdc. Timing chain is good. replaced fuel pressure regulator, no luck. checked pulse with noid light, checked map and tps. they are fine. please help!! 87 ford bronco II 4X4

Is the fuel pump operating? It sounds like you have checked everything but the fuel pump itself. Simply spray a small amount of carb cleaner into the throttle body. If the engine start briefly and stalls- this proves compression and timing are fine. You apparently have injector pulse, so this points to no fuel pressure from the pump.

fuel pump (on rail)was replaced 4 months ago, along with the fuel filter. it was suggested that the exhaust is clogged. it wants to start, and almost turns over but, does not.

If you partially drop the exhaust at the flange or remove an oxygen sensor, the engine will start and run IF the exhaust is clogged. This is only for test purposes, never drive with an exhaust leak.

1987 Ford Bronco II Drive Train / Driveline Vibration Happens sometimes Always

The right rear tire vibrates randomly, is worse when turning to the left. Tires have been balanced and rotated. When i jack it up and push and pull on the tire, the wheel moves in and out.

The first thing to check is the wheel bearing.

Copy and Paste the following link into your Address Bar/ note it also contains a repair guide for your truck-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/0f/97/3b/[redacted] d800f973b.jsp

1987 Ford Bronco II Engine   

i have a 1987 ford bronco II v6. i have had the valve cover gaskets replaced 2 times, and they still leak.will new valve covers help, and if so where can i get them.i'm tired of paying $200.00 each time with no results.i hope someone has an answer....thanks

There is a thing called a valve cover bolt spreader that you can put under the bolts to distribute the load better. Use them or try to find cast aluminum valve covers, they are more rigid than the cheap tin ones.
Thats why the mustang has them. Try to find them for a v-6. The bolt spreaders are a good 2nd choice as are rubber gaskets instead of cork.

1987 Ford Bronco II Drive Train / Driveline   

I notice a Transmission leak when towing under a load and the Motor/Tranny is worked hard, under normal circumstances the Tranny does not leak (at least not that I can see) I was wondering if there is some type of blow out valve or if there is another problem with the Tranny that would be causing this loss of fluid when worked.

Hello,

Where is the transmission fluid leaking?

There is a vent on the upper portion of the trans...

I do not know where it is leaking from this is a Hunting vehicle so it is at the property I wont be there until next weekend (21st), It only leaks (and you can see it on the dirt road) when it has been put under a load (towing a trailer with a deer blind on it) and is going up hill

I wish I had one of these for going into the woods, as good as you'll find with the short wheel base.

It would really help if you can find out where it is leaking and get back to me.

What is likely happening is the fluid is naturally getting hotter under load. This in turn is causing a seal, line, etc to leak under the increased expansion at elevated temps. It may also be effectively boiling over if the temp is getting too high. A trans cooler flush (internal) and an exterior cleaning (leaves, debris, etc) cannot hurt. You could also add an auxilliary transmission cooler.

Be sure to check the fluid level making sure it is correct.

Any luck hunting?

Ok I will have to check it out next time its under a load and worked, Is there a kit that I could buy from an automotive store to flush the tranny? if not maybe i will just have to take it into town and get it done by a mechanic. i might go ahead and purchase a trans cooler too just to keep it cool after i figure out where it is leaking from. I really do think it might just be the boiling over problem because wouldnt i have a leak all the time if it was a seal or line?

havent had a chance to go hunting yet will be heading out for the first time (well for deer that is) on the 21st it usually has been pretty good but im really picky now on what i shoot. Wife shot her first 8 point 2yrs ago so maybe her standards are raised a little too we'll find out though!

It is more likely to leak all the time if it is a seal or line, still possible only under certain elements.

Check for debris in the current cooler (radiator). And disconnect the lines here and blow it out with low pressure air. Note if much gunk comes out. Also inspect the lines for a kink that may be restricting flow. Hopefully you won't need a complete system flush. It would be a good idea to change the fluid and filter as they are probably overdue.

Wow, you must have good hunting lands. I never shot an 8 but have passed one up (had a nice 6 hanging, no buck tag :( Have go one 10. Last year I passed on a small 4 and didn't have another opp. for horns. Maybe I'd see more if I climbed a tree and sat still.

alright thanks I will try that and see what happens, if you think thats it i will end the convo so you can get paid (im sure thats how it works on here right?) so just let me know if there is any further detail that I need to know!

Yeah its alright, I think I am going to start feeding protein this year once hunting season is done, its a drive from Houston to Del Rio (7hrs) but with the protein feed I should see bigger horns and bigger deer, I saw a real nice what would've been a 10 or 11 two years ago but the rack was busted off right at the last two tips so i let him pass. The Biggest I have taken was that 8 that I seen he probably weighed about 140. Hopefully with this protein they get close to 200 and heck who knows what the racks will do! Ive heard some good reviews though on protein and from a ranch that is about 2hrs away from where I am seen some pics too and WOW hopefully it works for me..lol

1987 Ford Bronco II Fuel System   

bronco II 2.9 runs fine until eng temp comes to norm then it black smokes and shakes, runs real rich, let off on throttle and it dies, restart and it will idle fine until you goose the throttle then shes running rich again thank you

Okay a few things can cause this to happen:

1. The MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. This sensor effectively measures engine vacuum and is used to control fuel injector pulse width (amount of gas injected) and adjust timing. At idle an engine produces high vacuum. At wide open throttle there will be very low vacuum (but lots of air). If the map is incorrectly reporting low vacuum, the computer will pour on the fuel trying to keep a desirable air/fuel ration (the computer thinks there is a lot of air and adjusts accordingly).

2. The Temp sensor (coolant temp sensor). If the computer is being told the engine coolant is well below zero, the computer will in turn pour on the fuel as a cold engine requires extra fuel to run.

3. The fuel pressure regulator. What happens in the event of failure, is raw gasoline is sucked through the vacuum hose. Check the vacuum hose for signs of raw gasoline (wet and/or strong gasoline odor).

If you have a multimeter the coolant temperature sensor is easy to check with ohm meter function. The resistance changes with temperature change. Use the resistance scale as a guide at the following site:

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=28

If you don't have a meter, start the engine and run until the problem appears. Shut off engine and unplug the coolant temp sensor. Restart engine engine and note is problem is still present. If it is, reconnect sensor and run engine until problem repeats. Shut off and try the same with the map sensor. Does either make the black smoke disappear?

Visit autozone.com and register your vehicle by entering Year, Make, Model, etc. Then click Repair Info to access Component Locator's along with a Vehicle Repair Guide.

Note- your engine is running very rich as you know. This will cause gas to mix with the oil rendering the oil unable to provide adequate engine protection. Fix the problem and change the oil before driving.

Give me an update and we'll continue as necessary.

1987 Ford Bronco II Ignition System   

Drove about 60 miles and used a full tank of gas, did not smell any fumes at all & no gas leaks. At highway speeds it cuts out hard (bucks) and loses power. At slower speeds, seems run better. But it starts right up every time. It has weak back pressure from tail pipe & blows black soot. Also, swapped auto tranny for 5 speed manual, push button to manual. When you put it in 4x4, it grinds badly. Please help! Diane

Swapped from auto to 5 speed? Did you change the ECM? The truck is running VERY rich.Check the fuel filter and have it scanned for codes.
Putting into 4X4 and grinding is a separate issue...most trans shops will offer a free diagnosis.Fix the operating problems first though.

The ECM has not been changed. After the tranny swap it ran perfect in 2 wheel drive for 5 months or better. Then the starter went bad, changed that & solenoid. Ran good again. Then one night, at highway speed it started cutting out off and on and used a tank of gas in 60 miles. Acted like the fuel filter was plugging up..Can't afford diagnostics..could it be the ignition regulator, fuel pumps, fuel regulator?

Might be regulator for the fuel.
Not ignition or pump. Scan (diagnostics)
often free at many auto parts places.Might
try there.

1986 Ford Bronco II Engine Upgrade  

Have a 2.9L project engine. Am wondering if 2.8L carburated intake will fit. If not, is there a carb conversion available?

Hello, May I suggest you contact the FIND PARTS feature right here at the All-Parts Web Site? If they can find what you want, you'll know what will work.

Just a thought,

Roger

Hello, What is happening here, please?

Please advise,

Roger

Hello, Will you please take a moment and give me an update on this question? Thanks!

Merry Christmas,

Roger

Vendors say it needs to be fuel injected. The bolt patterns look the same. I need to know if the carb intake will fit for a sandrail application.

I have only one more Ford technician that has the experience I hope will help us out. If he passes I'll release this question for others to step up. Its holiday season but I'll try to reach him anyway. If you need to move on before I get back to you then just release the question and I'll understand.

Roger

I have time to wait. This car can be VW based until I get an answer.

I'll get back to you as soon as possible.

Roger

What I've learned is that the 2.8L intake will NOT work with the 2.9L heads. However, if you can get 2.8L heads of course the intake would work and the 2.8L heads WILL bolt to the 2.9L block.

You lose horse power with the carbureator vs. the fuel injection. My contact says that to run the fuel injection 2.9L you would need a processor and a couple of relays and not much else.

Roger

1986 Ford Bronco II Fuel System Won't Start When starting Always

Need to locate the fuel shut off switch location in my Bronco

Here is a link to a free online repair guide for you bronco. I've copied the page from the guide you need. Higlight, click Edit, Copy, and then Paste the link into your Address bar.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/0f/91/7[redacted] d[redacted] .jsp

Note- click images that are to small and they will open in a new window.

1986 Ford Bronco II Drive Train / Driveline Lagging When driving When warm 

Transmission Problem: 3 speed + OD automatic is loosing power after 30 minutes of driving, down to 10 mph on <5% grades. The longer it drives(hotter it gets) the slower it gets. Transmission has been replaced twice in 3.5 years by local professional. Truck is never taken off-road or abused, normal in-town driving only.
I was told years ago and have since forgotten that there is a trick or special part that has to be installed just-so to get a transmision install right. Obviously, my local expert/professional does not know what it is.
What is that illusive special trick/part on these 86 Broncos?

Is the tranny in OD when this happens?If so,try to manualy downshift to see what happens.I'm not sure if there is one available for your year and model, but yes there is a "chip" made that can be installed to help performance on newer models that I know of.You may also want to look at your actual engine performance.Check compression levels on each cylinder.If there is a 10-15% difference between any of them,you're engine may be getting a little tired.The reason I say this is because you have replaced the tranny twice in a short period of time.The 5% grade you mention puts alot of strain on both the tranny and engine.If the engine aint thumpin,the tranny wont be pumpin.
Good luck,
Paul

Let me clarify, it is a transmission installation problem, not an engine problem. The engine was the first thing checked before each replacement. A stock part of the tranmission that I understand to be fairly unique to this truck has to be installed correctly or the trans' overheats and wears out quickly. No way should I go through 2 trans' in less 3.5 years if installed correctly by a knowledgeable pro'.

I need to know what that unique part of the trans' is so that I can tell a new trans' tech to lookout for it.

O.K. you say the tranny is overheating. The part you are speaking of,I'm not real familar of ever hearing about.Here is the e-mail address of of a trans specialist that builds strictly Ford trannys that my be able to head you in the right direction,jwoodauto@sbcglobal.I worked with this individual for many years in my dealership days and have full confidence in his work and experiance.
Good Luck,
Paul

Are you sure of the email address <[redacted] >? I got an undeliverable. See below:


The original message was received at Fri, 12 May 2006 09:19:59 -0400
from mxip08a.cluster1.charter.net [209.225.28.138]

----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors -----
<[redacted] >

Sorry about that.Try his website at www. johnwoodautomotive.com He's a Powerstroke specialist but I know this guy knows Ford trannys like the back of his hand.
Good Luck,
Paul

I contacted the website, www. johnwoodautomotive.com, as you suggested and have not gotten a response.

I'll try and personally contact him.I'm not sure if he went on vacation.Will let you know.
Thanks,
Paul

Did you get in contact with the Ford transmission expert? Thanks.

I'll do a drive by in the AM.Last time I tried he was already closed or on vacation for Memorial Day.Sorry for not getting back sooner.My computer has been down for the last week.Will give you a responce tomorrow.
Thanks,
paul

1986 Ford Bronco II Drive Train / Driveline   

hello i am driving an 86 bronco 2 and i am having trouble getting it into 4high its an automatic with the big old shift lever for switching between 2 wheel and 4. It goes into 4 low easy enough when i try to get it into 4 high it seems like i have it in neutral. and there is a griding when i try to move it back up to 2 wheel drive i am switchin the transfer case while the transmission is in neutral. thanx

Does it make any difference if engine is off when you shift it or if you back up slightly?

Sometimes lubricant replacement/fill will help or an additive.

It is, of course, possible there is an internal problem with the transfer case that will require disassembly and inspection to determine the cause. A replacement transfer case is also an option.

when the engines is running and i switch it to 4x4 high it takes some being rough to get it to switch in other wise its acting like the transfer case is in neutral i havent played with it on and off but i will

1986 Ford Bronco II Fuel System   

2.9 engine,188K miles,recent new plugs, EGR,MAP, injector cleaner,PCV valve,use Shell 87 Octane. Altitude 6 thousand feet. Engine starts quickly and idles OK for 30 secs then gets rough and almost dies until wearm. When it gets very warm while driving, it gets rough again and acts like it is on last few drops of gas. It dies when at highway speed(hot day) and won't restart until cooled down.Could tdhis be vapor lock,fuel pump,fuel press regulator, or maybe eng coolant temp sensor? What else should be checked? Thank you for your consideration.

Your best bet would be coolant trmp sensor.
Fuel pump either work or do not, and injected motors do not get vapor lock as the reg is a bypass type one so the fuel is constantly moving.
Try the CTS.

Have you tested or replaced the CTS (coolant temp sensor ) yet?

1986 Ford Bronco II Fuel System   

fuel pump doesnt come on with key have changed relay checked inertia switch changed fuel tank sending unit/pump assembly checked continuity engine wiring harness could it be my high pressure pump ?? oh, when I jump across the wire in relay i get the pump to run constantly but no starting motor.

What I need you to do is check for spark to the spark plugs? Do you have spark? I'll bet you don't.

Perhaps you don't understand my question, YES there is a spark, but the problem is my FUEL pump isn't coming on. This truck was running badly---sputtering and stalling, I parked it and changed the plugs and wires and fuel filter and went to start it and now it doesn't run at all.

I had the same problem, its in the wire harness that actually goes to the pump. Instead of changing all that out, spending loads of money, I ran a fused wire from a acc (only on when you turn the key on) out of the fuse box and to the wires on the pump. YOu can do the same or you can spend money and time finding the wires out of the harness and changing them.

Okay, I wasn't expecting spark because there is something more than the pump that is stopping the engine from running. You already said with the fuel pump jumpered and running the engine still will not start (so there is no reason to think hard wiring the pump will get the engine running).

You should check for trouble codes and it'd also be nice to know if cylinder compression is okay. In absence of a compression gauge, you could spray a small amount of carburetor cleaner into the throttle body (it'd run fine for a second or two if compression is okay). Need instructions on trouble code retrieval?

Are you sure the spark plug wires are installed correctly?

Make sure you didn't knock any wires loose underhood, etc.

Sounds Like Bryan Adkins is on the same path I think I am. What I am trying to understand is how does this thing work?? I only see one hot and one ground at the pump , how does the thing know to only run for a few seconds when you turn the key on then when you start the truck it runs constant. The other part is--when I jump across the terminals at the fuel relay and the pump starts running constantly, why doesn't the truck start then ?? Is there some kind of safety circuit involved with that? The part that is REALLY confusing me is jumping the terminal tells me that the wiring from the terminal to the pump is intact , so that leaves me with from the starter to the relay or the relay. I changed the relay and I have one wire that is a constant Hot at the terminal, so I'm guessing that means from the starter is good???I'm getting more confused by the Minute, My Dad and brother just suggested I throw this one away and transfer the motor. Being as I have 4 . I am trying to keep this one though as its 4x4 !!

That is the problem with that method, the fuel pump will run whenever the key is on. This can be dangerous if you ever have a leaking fuel pressure regulator (common). It'd pump the engine full of gas.

Do you have injector pulse? Test using a noid light.

Have you checked trouble codes?

yeh, problem there, # 1 I have no way to retrieve trouble codes and don't have a noid light. So I don't know what to do next. I guess either take it to a shop or junk it.

Do you have a 12 volt test light or multimeter?

Yes, I have a continuity tester and also a multimeter.

Use the following link to check for trouble codes-

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/0f/8e/2b/[redacted] d800f8e2b/repairInfoPages.htm

Additionaly check to see if there is Key On positive voltage to one side the fuel injector (one end of a 12 volt test light to known good ground and the other to fuel injector electrical connector).

Do you have spare vehicles that you could swap parts from?

BTW- Did you ever confirm that the engine would start if you sprayed a small amount of carburetor cleaner into the throttle body (just a small amount, to much is dangerous).

It surely seems the fuel pump is not running because the comptuer is never commanding it ON, so we need to find out what else is not working.

1986 Ford Bronco II Fuel System   

Lots of fuel getting into oil pan, smoking badly and running very rough. Tried new fuel reg. to no avail.

You may have a leaking fuel injector (visually observe the injector with fuel pressure established). This can be caused by debris holding the injector open which will cause it leak fuel continually. It can also be caused if the ground side of the injector is shorted to constant ground (positive is always On and ground is an On/Off signal from computer, always On means contantly fueling...)

It can also be a sensor issue. If the map sensor is giving a false reading it can command to much injector spray. The temp sensors (coolant and intake if applicable) could also be telling the computer that the temperature 40 below which will cause a rich condition (the colder the engine is the more fuel it requires to run).

1986 Ford Bronco II Ignition System   

I cannof get my starter to turn over. when I jump the relay to engage the starter drive it seems to work but when I jump to the stsrter it does not spin over. Starter or relay?

Starter relay sounds like the problem here, but if it were mine I would have a good look at the starter also. (I would re-re starter and remove the end plate and clean out the brushes and clean the armature)
Considering it is winter, and the last thing you require is a bad starter, you may consider replacing it with a reman one. The relay is cheap as are new starter brushes if you decide to replace them. Also as preventive maintenance, ensure the battery is fully charged and the cable ends are clean.
Midas (the exhaust guys) sometimes will test the battery/starter/charging system for free or a small charge. Might be something to consider having done there or your favorite shop.

1986 Ford Bronco II Fuel System   

Vehicle was stored outside in Alaska for 2 yrs. Car wouldn't start 1st day, then next day started and ran fine. Then it sometimes would start and sometimes not. Added fresh fuel and "heat". Sometimes when it wouldn't start we could let is set for an hr. or 2 and then it would start. Has spark so we assume it is fuel system. New battery was put in already. When won't start acts like not getting fuel. Could it be electronic fuel pump? or rust in gas tank/system or what? Please help, stranded in alaska

Hello, please consider checking the fuel pressure. Especially during the time it cranks but won't start.

Attached to the fuel pump is a strainer filter. If this filter gets blocked by debris in the fuel tank the pump will suck it flat and flow through it becomes blocked.

Should the strainer become sucked flat it will expand toward it's original shape when the fuel pump stops. This expanding motion will tend to make debris fall away from the strainer and allow flow to be restored until the cycle repeats. This would call for the fuel tank to be cleaned out or replaced.

It is noteworthy that the in-line fuel filter outside the tank may be clean or even new yet flow can be blocked by a flattened strainer in the tank.

Checking the fuel pressure is a great way to start. If pressure is good when the Bronco won't start, please advise.

Roger

Is the strainer filter in the tank or attached to fuel pump outside the tank?
Do I replace fuel pump or just strainer?

The fuel pump strainer attaches to the electric fuel pump inside the fuel tank. It can be serviced seperately from the pump but the fuel tank has to be removed to get to it.

If you drop the fuel tank for cleaning or replacement it is wise to install a new pump and strainer so the job has the best chance for a long term fix.

Roger

1986 Ford Bronco II Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I've got no fire. I've replaced every part I can think of in the ignition system (distributor, coil, plug wires, ignition control module). There is 12v at the coil (+) and 4v at the coil (-)(tach). There is 12v at the ignition control module connector (coil). There is fuel pressure at the rail. But no fire. I've also replace the relays for the fuel pressure and computer. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Check to see if the distributor rotor is turning during engine cranking. This step is easily overlooked.

Is there injector pulse to the fuel injectors?

Any trouble codes present?

The distributor is turning during engine cranking. Don't know how to check for injector pulse to the fuel injectors? I believe this is a OBD-1 system, so I'm not sure how to check for trouble codes

Check for injector pulse with a noid light which is plugged into the injector. A noid light is recommended because there is a small risk of damage to the computer if a voltmeter is used to check for injector pulse (your choice/risk).

The fuel injectors always have 12 volts positive available while the key is on. The ground is provided by computer, an on/off pulse which controls how much gasoline is sprayed from the injectors.

Is the check engine light coming on with the key on? This would indicate the computer is powered up.

Copy and Paste the following link into your address bar-

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/0f/8e/2b/[redacted] d800f8e2b/repairInfoPages.htm

Let me know what you find.

I am waiting for my NOID lights to arrive. There is no Check Engine light on an 86 Bronco II. This morning, I continued my troubleshooting with these results. At the negative coil, I have 12V. Connecting a test light to the negative coil, the light flickered when cranking the engine. I believe this is the first test of the EEC-IV system. Also, I rechecked the distributor, and it is rotating. I also checked the relays (fuel and computer) and they are activating when the key is turned ON. Hope this helps. Again, waiting on NOID lights to arrive.

Is there spark from the coil wire?

If the coil has positive voltage and receives it's negative trigger, it should fire if the coil is good.

What did you replace when you replaced the distributor, the complete distributor or the cap? If the rotor in the distributor is bad you will have spark from the coil wire but NOT to the plug wires.

When I replaced the distributor, I replaced the entire distributor. Yes, I believe that the coil (which is also new) has positive voltage (12V) at the (+) terminal and the (-) terminal makes the test light flicker. I can't figure out why there is no fire. Although I replaced the coil and all plug wires, is it possible that one or both have gone bad? I'm really trying here, and I've only taken my vehicles to the shop one time in 34 years, but this one has me stumped. BTW, I took the ignition switch apart and chased the wires for voltage and/or shorts. All looked good. I appreciate the help. I'll be out of town until Monday, so don't think I'm not responding.

1986 Ford Bronco II Engine   

i've got an 86 bronco 2, the problem is that it runs fine until the engine warms up then it starts sputtering and hesitating, but as long as I stay on the highway over 55 miles an hour its fine but when I stop and try to get back up to spead it hesitates sputters bogs down, it also idles a little high tried to turn it down but it seems to have a mind of its own and goes back up by it self. although when I unplug the throttle sensor it idles normal,I have read about other people with the same year truck that cant figure it out either i have had some suggestions but I cant afford to do all of them before I get this straightend out 1 is the o2 sensor, the fuel pressurer regulater, all I know is that when I let it warm up then manualy rev it up under the hood when it bogs down it sounds like it is getting to much gas and I also smell gas when it hesitates another guy I talked to said his bronco 2 did the same thing and he put in a new ecm and it ran great after that, i think those are pretty expesive so I hope thats not the prob what do you thin

why did you guys charge my credit card twice I havent got an answer yet and have been charged 2 times for one transaction who can I call to get this problem straightend out, thank you

O2Sensor controls the rich or lean amount...might be problem
CTS (coolant temp sensor) controls
rich or lean amount depending on temp
of engine.More likely it is the problem if we are guessing.
Both send signal to ecm.
If you cannot afford a scan for codes, my guess is CTS.but scan recommended

where is the cts located in the 86 bronco 2

Usually on intake close to thermostat hsg. If you are intent on replacing it without a scan, purchase the sender first. That will help you identify it.

I rplaced the cts, nothing changed, I also noticed new symtoms, I started it up and took it for a drive on the highway it drove fine at 60 mph for 20 miles when I got off the highway and tried to get back up to speed it started losing power and sputtering at about 40 mph it stalled and I waited five minutesand drove back 20 miles at 60mph and it was fine on the highway except I noticed that if I floored it I got no response the mph and the rpm stayed the same got back off the highway and the same thing happend it starting losing power at about 40 mph

Sounds like there were or are multiple problems, one which was the cts. Might be an ecu (computer) You really should get ot scanned, a free service at some auto parts stores.

1986 Ford Bronco II Ignition System   

Installed a new battery in a Bronco II thats been sitting awhile. After hooking up the battery, No juice anywhere. Battery is higher amps than required (took it out a 04 Bronco. Does thi matter? I think relay (?) on Negative cable may be bad, Ant ideas??

The relay or starter solenoid easy to '.
First ensure the cable ends are all clean/tight. The solenoid Has to big terminals, (battery side-starter side) and two small terminals ('s'-starter and 'i'-ignition) Grab a short pce of heavy wire (10 guage) and attach it to battery Pos+ terminal and touch the other end to "s" terminal)
Starter should crank over, if not solenoid probably at fault. If solenoid good, then starter bad.
Higher amp battery ok.

I will try the jump. But would that effect all power? I have no power to anything (lights, radio etc).

The Bronco will have several wires attached to the solenoid battery terminal, smaller than battery cable. That is where the truck gets its main power from.Remove the nut on the stud, and 'clean' the connections carefully, with sandpaper or similar.

1985 Ford Bronco II Engine   

While driving my bronco at 60+ mph, it will lose all power and start decelerating. The engine won't die, but i can't rev it up. I have to shift the car into neutral to rev engine, then I can shift it back into gear and drive normally. Carb problems??

sometimes it backfires at the same time

This is likely a carburetor or fuel pressure problem. You could start with a new fuel filter and add a good fuel system cleaner to the tank.

1985 Ford Bronco II Fuel System   

when i drive my bronco II in the mornings it usually stalls in 1st or reverse. I give it alot of gas and it takes off, but when im on the highway it doesnt get up to the speed i need(65-75). it loses power uphill and if i get it to 65 it wont stay there.the weird thing is by the time im off work an im driving home its drives normally. WHAT IS GOING ON???? TOMMY,ARNOLD MARYLAND.

Assuming that your Bronco has been the recipient of reg. tunups, I would look at the carb choke. It might be sticking.Spraying the carb down with an (entire) can of carb cleaner (in and out) could not hurt.Spray a little WD40 on the linkage after.

MY MAECHANIC SAID IT WAS THE CHOKE. AND HE TOLD ME HE ADJUSTED IT LAST TIME I HAD IT LOOKED AT. BUT MORNING DRIVES ARE ALWAYS CRAPPY. IF THE CARB CLEANER AND WD-40 DONT WORK WHAT COULD BE ANOTHER SCENARIO???

Adjusting sometimes works, some times not.If its defective or sticking, then no adj. will help. When motor cold in morning see if choke butterfly open.It is controlled by a bi-metallic clock type spring that unwinds as it warms up, and opens the choke.

I replaced the choke and havent had a problem since. this service is great. oh yea, is a 70-10 ohm fuel sending unit compatible on an 85 Bronco II.

Not sure on that one, you can check on the Autometer guage website for that info. Most Fords are the same

1985 Ford Bronco II Fuel System   

my 1985 ford bronco II 4X4 5 SPEED V6 GAS GADGE IS NOT WORKING HOW CAN I FIX THAT???

It is usually the sender, not the guage.Remove wire to sender at gas tank, and touch it to a clean bare metal such as frame.With key on , guage should go to full.Then the guage and wiring tests ok.The sender is in gas tank.Tank has to come out, drained, and sender replaced.
If it is a guage, they are avail at autowreckers (Ranger the same) New senders avail at local parts store.

so is that the only thing that would stop the gas gadge from working?

ok my question is this i have a 1985 ford bronco II 5 speed 4x4 v6 when i driving on the high way climbing hills im like in 3rd gear but when i shift to 4th it seems like i lose power and the rpms drop to 2000?? what gear should the 4x4 be in naturally just climbing??

A V6 does not have enough torque for hills in upper gears.3rd gear is fine.

ok thanks what about when carrying a trailer that weighs like 800 pounds and going up hill how should i apporch that climb

most definatly downshift into 3rd (2nd for steep hills) Ensure you have a large transmission cooler added.

what you mean a large transmission cooler added?? i think everything is stock will i be fine if im driving from california to flagstaff az?? it seems to be running very well so far

If you ask any trans shop,90% of trans failures are due to overheating. A transmission cooler is like extra insurance.Trucks that have trailer towing option from factory have coolers. It can't hurt.

1985 Ford Bronco II Fuel System   

I have an 1985 Bronco II that has a basically new engine that was installed new. (8,000 miles that has taken 6 years to put on it). I was having problems with it idling and I changed the spark plug wires, spark plugs, rotor and rotor cap. It is still having problems idling. I have seen where you suspect the idle speed control sensor in situations like this. Where is this sensor located? How hard is it to replace? Thank You! John Robertson

Hello,

I want you to copy and paste the following link into your address bar-

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/0f/8d/8b/[redacted] d800f8d8b/repairInfoPages.htm

The link will take you to autzones online repair guide that covers Ford Bronco II's.

The valve is a common failure and easy to change.

-The above information is for fuel injected engines. Your year is right at the transition from carburetor to fuel injection.

The following link covers information on carburetors-

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/0f/90/d[redacted] d800f90d6/repairInfoPages.htm

Let me know which engine you have and we'll continue.

I have the carburetor engine. Thanks! John R.

Okay, check thoroughly for vacuum leaks concentrating on:

1. All vacuum hoses.

2. The carburetor base gasket.

3. The intake manifold gaskets.

Does the idle speed lope up and down, is idle to low (causing the engine to want to stall), or is idle too high?

Do you get any black smoke if you rev the engine after idling for a while? Does the engine oil smell like gasoline?

The engine idles real low and wants to cutoff if you don't pump the accelerator. If it cuts off then it is hard to start. Once you start it it has black smoke for just a few seconds.

Okay, make sure the choke is not sticking too.

It seems you are getting to much fuel, causing the engine to stall at idle. If may not hurt to run a good fuel system cleaner through also, such a seafoam (I don't usually recommend products such as these, but I've heard enough good things about this one that it's worth a shot).

This engine was installed about 7 years ago by a Ford dealer ship. For a long time it idled real high. Just recently did it start wanting to idle real low and "konk out". I will check the vacuum lines and check the choke and make sure it is not stuck. I printed out the info on the sensors. Do I need to check these. Currently my engine oil pressure gage works but not the temp guage or battery charging gauge. I had just repaired a wire on the sensor that goes into the air filter and I replaced the sensor but was not sure if that was when the higher idle decreased because my 16 year old Daughter is driving the truck. Since then I unplugged it to see if it changed anything and it did not. Thanks for your help.

No, the information I gave on the idle speed motor applied to fuel injected engines.

Check the choke and make sure it is not partially closed at idle (with the engine warm/hot).

Of subject, FYI-

The idle speed motor/valve controls idle speed on fuel injected engines. This is not a sensor, but rather an actuator. Think of an actuator as an output device. The computer gets information from sensors (example- coolant sensor for engine temperature, etc). It then calculates things like desired idle speed (based on input from information sensors) and acuates the idle speed motor.

You apparently were stuck on fast idle (idle up motor for cold engine idle), but now return to normal idle. Either you have a rich condition at idle OR the idle speed is to low. Try raising the idle speed slightly and see if the engine runs okay. You can actually do this by pressing lightly on the acceletor. Does the engine run okay at desirable rpm's, or must you reach fast idle rpm's before it idle smooths?

The last part of the test should be done when the engine is warm and after a good fast rev (to clean out any rich condition from a rough idle).

I will check the choke also. When you barely start pressing the accelerator the engine smooths right out. If it idled just a little faster there probably would be no problem. Thank You!

Perhaps the idle speed is just a little low. Any estimate on how many rpm's it is running at when it runs smooth?

Maybe 1[redacted] it doesn't take much throttle.

That is a little faster than it should need. Try shifting from drive to reverse and vice-versa, at those rpm's and let me know if it shifts smooth or jerks slightly (from too high an idle).

Hello I was guessing. I do not have a tach. It may be less than that. All I know is that if it were a little higher like it was before it would probably not be a problem for my daughter. She said that if she takes her foot off the accelerator it shuts off and then is hard to start and when it does it blows out black smoke like it was flooded. I did check the vacuum lines and they all look ok. Is there a way to check to see if enough vacuum is there? I also cleaned the linkage around the carburator. I will have more time later today to check other things if I don't get rained out.

Try the shifting test with the rpm's raised. You can raise the base idle by adjusting the set/stop screw.

In the mean time, when she is forced to restart the engine, hold the accelerator to the floor (clear flood mode for carb. and efi engine). Warn her the engine will roar if she does not release the accelerator when the engine starts.

I don't like the black smoke, but we'll see if raising the rpm's helps. Once the rpm's are raised, let it idle for a bit. Then rev, any smoke now? There shouldn't be.

OK! Thank You! I will get back with you tomorrow.
John R.

1985 Ford Bronco II Windows / Glass   

I have a 1985 Bronco II and need the driver side (LH)window glass regulator bracket that attaches to the glass and then attaches to the regulator. I will pay dearly for this plastic part. In diagrams this part number is 23288 or in another diagram it is FT 1023289A or on the part it is E57B-1023277-AA. Is there any where in the world that this part can be found? Thank you!

On the All Parts Home Page click on the Auto Parts Wholesale and/or the Auto Recyclers buttons and fill in the information. You will receive responces to your query.

There is no charge for the search.

If you have posted a fee of any kind for a parts search please request a refund/cancelation from All-Parts.com, Administrator, All-Parts.com.

Thanks,

Roger

1984 Ford Bronco II Electrical / Lighting Systems Hesitating When accelerating When warm 

The plug going to the air charge temperature sensor is malfunctioning.I changed the sensor but when you plug it up it wont idle and when you run it with it unplugged its not adjusting the airfuel mixture and its causing it to choke down and stall.how do I fix this problem?

Hello, Before I'll know if I can help, I need to know which engine you are working on?

Thanks,

Roger

2.8liter V-6

The information I have at home is not helpful enough to guide you. I will research it for you and advise, or, if you prefer I will stand aside so someone else may help you sooner. It would be this afternoon before I could get back to you...I don't want to cause you delays getting your answer.

What works best for you?

Roger

1984 Ford Bronco II Fuel System Hesitating When accelerating When warm 

I have this 84 bronco II 2.8L 4X4 with a manueal trany When the truck gets warm it starts jerking back and forth and when I put in nutral to come to a stop it stalls but I can turn it right back over. I already replaced the fuel filter. What could it be? Hmmmm?

Try checking the TPS and MAF sensors.Sounds like its ether starving for air or fuel.
Good Luck,
Paul

1984 Ford Bronco II Ignition System Stalling When idling Always

Hi
I bought an 84 bronco II at auction, it was barley running at an idol, I thought it was misfireing and replaced wires,plugs,rotor and cap, and it made no diference at all, what is strange is when i turn on the head lights it runs a little better? not much better but it does seem to help? I also noticed a poping sound back tro the exhaust when i turned the head lights on? I am wondering if the timing chain is bad? or if it is in the ignition module? any help will be great..

Am I to understand that it will not accelerate at all? Is the spark strong from the coil? Is the spark timing right? Will it run better or worse when creating a vacuum leak? adding fuel? Is the exhaust clogged?

Hi I asked you a question about my 84 bronco and you answered me by asking more questions?
That was 3 days ago? now no reply from you?
am I to pay again is that it? must be? because you have not replyed? I will not pay you to ask a question and have it un answered only by questions from you? Nice little scam you got going on there! News flash for ya buddy! If you do not answer my question about wheather the control module can cause the problem I have, I will simply call my credit card company and deqline to pay for a service that I did not get? up to you? still waiting for my reply?

Sure, the ignition control module can certainly cause that symptom. The timing chain would not be likely to make a change that is affected by the headlamps.

I was suggesting to check a few other items that can be done for almost free, without spending our hard-earned dollars with the parts makers.

You do not need to pay twice. Your credit card will not be charged until you have said you are satisfied, or when a certain amount of time has elapsed.

Sterlingfixer

1984 Ford Bronco II All Part Groups   

front bomber

What is your question? Are you looking for removal instructions?

1983 Ford Bronco II Ignition System   

I have a 1983 ford bronco 2 2.8 cyl-6 It starts up fine. After plowing for awhile it just dies/no spark coming from coil. Let it cool down and it starts right up. Can't seem to isolate. Any help?

Hi, if the car runs perfect from cold but then starts playing up when it gets warm or hot and then wont start again until the engine has cooled down, if this is the case then the problem you are having points towards the oxygen sensor (lambda sensor for its real name) now the reason it points towards this being at fault is that when the engine is cool this sensor is not working it only starts working when the engine reaches a certain temp then when the engine cools down again the sensor stops working and your car will run fine.

get the oxygen sensor checked and changed and you should find that after doing this you will have no further problems,

let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok

Thanks that helps, where is it located?

Hi, the oxygen sensor is in the exhaust i not 100% sure where it is on yours, you may even have 2 on yours, have a look at the exhaust downpipe where it comes out of the engine now follow the exhaust down and you should see it bolted into either the down pipe or it will be near the manifold, usually its just past the exhaust manifold and in the next part of the exhaut thats connected to the manifold so the 2nd section of exhaust, you should see it it will have 2 wires going to it and it will be bolted into the exhaust,.

ill have an ask around and see if i can locate it exactly for you and ill send a message back ok

Thanks that helps out more. Can this sensor be "jumpered out" until I can get one. Might be hard to find in Wisconsin.

no im afraid it cant its all linked in with the ecu so their is no way of getting round it, i have tried taking the sensor out the exhaust so it wont get hot and the car just wont run right so the only option would be to get this sensor replaced, but you need to bare in mind if you have a catalytic converter on your car then if the sensor comes after the cat then it could be the cat thats playing up if its before the cat then it will be the sensor, the temp gauge dont get hot does it as this could mean something else but if the temp gauge is at normal temp then i would stick with the sensor being the culprit

I located the sensor, its in the exhaust manifold drivers side, but it only has one wire coming off of it. My question is: should there be 2 wires coming out of this sensor? thanks again for the help on this.

im not to sure if it had to their would be 2 contacts on the top of the sensor if you can see where the one wire goes in have a look next to it and see if their is a contact for another wire, some only have one as some are earthed out through the exhaust so only have one wire, if it had 2 you should see the other wire hanging loose unless you caught it on something whilst driving, the best thing to do would be ring a car spares shop and ask them if it has 1 wire or 2 they should be able to check and tell you over the phone

will do thanks for the help. It definitely helps me in isolating the problem. Looks like this baby in there since 1983. Once again thanks alot. I'll e-mail you if I have more questions. Thanks

ok no probs, they rarely go wrong so the chances are its an original part you can get cheaper parts so it dont need to be a ford made part as these can cost a lot more, ring your nearest car spares place as these will be cheaper than ford, give me a shout back if you have any further problems,