Ford Country Squire

1990 Ford Country Squire Engine Chugging When driving No pattern

My ford wagon has been doing this for a while. It has been seen by a least 4 mechanics who cant find anything wrong.Everything has been checked.there is always a smell from the engine after it is switched off but its not leaking anything.Some days it goes like a top,others it barely moves.HELP!

from the symptoms you explained so far
it sounds like your carburater is the culprit especially with this type of inconsistensy at times it may be starving for gas and it is restricted
I would start by cleaning the fuel system with a gas tank adative and definately changing the fuel filter cleaning the carburater and make sure you check for a filter right at the fuel tank under car

Has the catalytic converter been checked, and what does the scent you are experiencing smell like? and no it doesnt have to smell like rotten eggs! A plugged catalytic converter can cause all kinds of problems such as dying, chugging, non starts, even if you dont accept my answer let me know. Thanks
George O'Neal

1989 Ford Country Squire Engine Won't Start When stopped Always

89 LTD Wagon with Big eight cylinder, Radiator went do to some road trash bouncing up and punching small hole.

Engine gat very wet and at first would start, after replaced the radiator the car will not start. Will crank and is getting gas. Put a timing light on one of the spark plug wires and it indicated spark.

sometimes it will hit on a couple of cylinders but will not catch

have removed cap and rotor, high preassure air dried that and any other connection along with those spark pug wires I could find.

showing a code IK7 28 on the clock radio

Did it show an improvement after drying the cap rotor and wires? If you gained a couple cylinders after doing this some are still wet. Or the wires are not properly installed on the cap. If you visit autozone.com they have free vehicle repair guides that will give you the firing order as well as information on testing the components of the ignition and fuel system.

Never overlook fuses in these situations.

I have pulled all the wires one by one and air dried. the Distributor is pretty protected by a rubber boot that covers the whoel thing but I still pulled each wire and air dried everything.
The coild is right up front and I pulled the lead to the Dist cap and it was corroded with white indication of electrolisis. Cleaned that off. wondering if the connectors to the ingnition modual are wet but cannot find the unit.

I figure that htere is water somewhere but cannot think of any other place where or maybe the getting wet sent some bad info to the ecu and it needs to be reset.

The ignition module should be on the side of the distributor.

Have you used the timing light to make sure the timing is still close? You want to make sure the timing didn't jump.

To reset the ecu (computer, ecm, pcm whichever name you prefer) simply disconnect the negative battery cable for a minute or so.

You can also spray a SMALL amount of carburetor cleaner down the throttle body. Then try to start the engine. If it starts and stalls the fuel injectors are not firing. Be careful using carb cleaner, follow all safety precautions.

Let me know what you find.

Thank you Went back to zero and repeated the drying steps using electical connections cleaner on all conections, including each plug wire from the distributor. A patolium jelly like substance on these wires, not sure if it was anti corrosive or what but it is gone now. Very long crank and it started to catch. Belched like a drunk sailor smoking cigars but finnaly caught and the heat from the engine running dryied it out the rest of the way,
Running fine now but still have a code on the digital clock on the dash.

"Belched like a drunk sailor smoking cigars"

LOL, good one.

Glad you got it running, tough problem to fix. Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a minutute and reconnecting to see if this will reset the clock. Look in your owners manual, if you have one, for instrucions on resetting the clock. If you don't have this informational available I'll see if I can dig something up.

1965 Ford Country Squire Electrical / Lighting Systems   

wiring a voltage regulator

Hello, Five wires connect to the voltage regulator.
1. The yellow wire runs between the starter relay hot side and the regulator.
2. Three wires run between the regulator and the alternator. They are Wht/Blk, BLK/Red, and either a White or sometimes a Blk/Wht.
3. The Grn/Red wire splices to a Blk wire coming from the ignition switch that ends as either a Blk or Blu wire to the I/P.

Any help?

Roger

No. Nothing is stock so wire colors don't help. I have a new voltage regulator with four spades marked I A S & F. Can you tell me where each wire from the voltage regulator goes. I have one wire going from the alternator to the battery. That leaves me with three more outlets on the alternator: stnator, field & ground. I'm cofused. Thanks. Jerry

May 24/07 3:50PM: "No. Nothing is stock so wire colors don't help. I have a new voltage regulator with four spades marked I A S & F. Can you tell me where each wire from the voltage regulator goes. I have one wire going from the alternator to the battery. That leaves me with three more outlets on the alternator: stnator, field & ground. I'm cofused. Thanks. Jerry"

Okay. Let's do this....Copy and paste the link below into your browser address bar. Then scroll down the page to the color wiring diagrams. Use the lower pic. It is for the 1965.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/ford-generator-wiring-64920.html

That should give you a great understanding of what goes where.

Please advise,

Roger

Perfect. I didn't know about the ground wire. Also can I skip the junction box so "A" wire and the wire from the solenoid go directly to "batt" terminal on the alternator? Thanks a lot. Jerry

Correct! To accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me please click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

I thank you,

Roger