Ford Crown Victoria

2004 Ford Crown Victoria Fuel System   

Have ford crown vic police car 2004 made 8/19/2003. What can be done to protect from a fire due to gas tank rupture in a strong rear end collision. Modifications ? Perhaps racing mechanics would know..thanks

I work for Canada' largest Speed Shop and the question is relatively simple.
RCI and other companys make a Nascar Type Fuel Cell that has a Polyurethane type liner in a metal container. A common part used in both drag racing and oval track type cars.Plumb the lines with Aeroquip type fittings and braided lines.
The fuel cells are reasonably priced, and have roll over valves on the vents. They are also avail in quite a few sizes.
Get a NHRA (or other) rule book for advice on correctly installing.

THANKS i WILL LOOK INTO THIS..

2003 Ford Crown Victoria All Part Groups   

1) When idling, the car shakes a little bit but no check engine light has come on. replaced one coil when light came on. Now the light is off and it still shakes, do the coils need to be replaced?

2) When the car first starts up, it smells heavily of gas and eats a bit more gas then my odl '97, any suggestions.

3) Lastly, the tranny stall for about 2 seconds when placed from reverse off of the driveway into drive. It laso seems to have some trouble with shifting into the second possibly third gear. Fluid is topped and filter has been replced 3 months ago. Any ideas? THANKS

Start by pulling the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator off. See if it smells of gasoline or there is the appearance of raw gas. If there is the fuel pressure regulator needs replacing.

Let me know what you find with this, and we'll go from there. It is best to get the engine running properly first, hopefully this will cure all problems.

The vacuum line was "clean" and did not smell of gasoline.

Look in darkness to see if there if the coils are leaking voltage, you'll see it. Do this when the engine is running rough. Use extreme caution around moving engine parts.

I replaced the coils and it is running fine now except for the slipping, late, hard shifting transmission. Fluid is topped up with a 4 month old filter.

Disconnect the negative battery cable for fifteen minutes to reset the computer. Then reconnect and test drive. This will run a relearn procedure. Hopefully it will learn to shift properly again or recognize a shift problem and set a code. Try this and let me know.

By the way, some cars have radios, etc with security codes that are needed to resume function when power is loss (disconnecting battery).

o.k, do newer trannies have a second or two delay when switching from reverse to drive followed by a lurch if gas is applied?

2003 Ford Crown Victoria Engine   

This question is related to a performance problem on my 2003 Crown Vic Police Interceptor. I am experiencing a buck/jerk condition under light to moderate accerleration primarily in gears 3 and 4 and primarily with the torque convertor locked and apparently between 1500 and 1900 rpm. No fault codes are being generated by the computer (or at least none that can be read by my Actron scanner) and the problem is not accompanied by a check-engine light. Pertinent information includes that the problem has persisted after replacement of the transmission and convertor, MAF, TPS, and PCM. Please let me know if you can provide any direction.

Hello, when the condition is present will very lightly applying the foot brake just enough to turn on the car's brake lights and cause the torque converter clutch (TCC)to release eliminate the buck/jerk? Or, will lifting the foot brake pedal upward with your toe have a favorable result?

If so, some possible causes could be low line pressure, low fluid level, wrong fluid type, improper adjustment of the brake light switch, or TCC Solenoid will not remain energized.

A transmission technician will have a scanner with transmission diagnostic data software. With this scanner connected (and during a road test) he can monitor parameters that note what commands the transmission has been given and by feedback data can determine if the command has been carried out.

Not a whole lot of things you can do without good scanner road test data to study.

Have I made sense?

Roger

Your answer makes sense. Given that both the transmission and torque converter have been replaced and that the appropriate amount of dex 5 fluid was used, the most likely option along the lines of your reply involve the brake light switch adjustment. If I understand correctly, the torque converter will not lock if the switch is engaged (lights on). My assumption based on your reply is that if the switch is engaged constantly(lights on)there would be no noticeable effect other than that the converter would never lock. The toe lift excercise, i believe, would only test whether the converter was failing to lock as a result of the brake lights being permanently on due to improper switch adjustment and therefore would not test a condition in which the converter was failing to unlock. Is my understanding to the details of your reply accurate?

Yes sir. And I would ad that a brake light switch can be found to have just enough resistance to effect the TCC operation even though brake lights have not been energized. We are talking a rarity (splitting hairs if you will) as the brake light circuit and the TCC circuit are different yet triggered by the same switch.

Given the possibility of wear a brake light switch is suspect until diagnosis eliminates it from the equation.

Brake pedal position is an input monitored by the powertrain control module. The road test with a high-scanner will show what the computer "sees" this value to be and how consistant the value is.

The scanner data parameters will also show if the TCC Solenoid is failing to remain energized when clutch engagement is called for.

Roger

Thanks. Ill give it a try

Take the time you need and update me when you can.

Thanks,

Roger

2001 Ford Crown Victoria Electrical / Lighting Systems   Always

The Power door locks, Power Seats and Trunk Lid Release do not function. Fuse relay #7 20A CB controls these operations and when trying to pull it out I find that it is very hot and I mean HOT. The fuse is in a metal cover and so I left it out as I was afraid it may cause a fire or melt down.

When I first went out to the car all functioned normal when I stopped and then locked the door's, on returning I could not get into the car only by using the key. Would appreciate some Ideas.

Regards, Tom

Hello, A short exists on one of the systems that the circuit breaker protects. The circuit breaker resets and trips repeatedly and HEAT builds up within the breaker as it tries to protect the wiring from a meltdown.

Look for a stuck switch that controls each power seat. Disconnect the seat switches one at a time and see if power restores to the remaining connected components on the circuit. Look under each power seat at the wiring to the seat motors. Are any wires pinched or insulation cut on a bracket? Are any connectors cocked from getting caught on an item stuffed under the seat?

Has there been a fluid spill across any related switch?

Note, I've burned my hands on a hot circuit breaker plugged into a fuse panel more than once. But provided it is the correct amp rating circuit breaker called for I've never seen it cause an electrical fire. Your caution is wisdom, be safe.

Roger

How are you doing here? I'd like to help.

Thanks,

Roger

What is happening here, please?

Roger

2000 Ford Crown Victoria Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise Happens sometimes When cold

Transmission made a whirring sound when cold. went intermittent then went away as car warmed. Changed fluid and filter which fixed it for about six months, now its back. Also, now (related?) car dies when started cold. Especially if put in gear. Must warm up at more than idle rpm. to keep it running. Then when warm its ok.

Sounds like a torque converter problem.Possibly a front pump problem.Either way, it is more than the average backyard mechanic can handle.
Most reputable trans shops will inspect and/or test drive it for free.

2000 Ford Crown Victoria Fuel System   

On a cold start my car does not idle high enough and it stalls. I have to drive with my brake and gas to keep in going until something kicks in and then I have no problem. It seems after I drive it fast for a minute or so, cures the problem. I have no problem with a warm start

Hi,

Check your COLD STAR VALVE or replace it.
Regards,

Peter

1999 Ford Crown Victoria Interior Components Malfunction When driving Always

The interior lighting in my 1999 Crown Vic will no longer turn off after clsoing the doors, it used to dim out after a door was opened then closed. After 10 minutes of the car being off the lights will turn off however if I'm driving they remain on always. What should I look at for resolution? Thank you.

Sounds like one of your door switches is stuck on. Most often it is the drivers door, but it could be any door. The switch is telling the light to come on. When the car is off, there is a timer that shuts everything down after 10-20 minutes to save the battery.

That makes sense, can you advise what the switch may look like? I looked all over the jam and am unable to determine what the switch is... I can forward digital pictures if that would mkae it easier for you.
Thank you.

On that car, the switch is internal to the door. It should be a pin type switch on the latch assembly.

1998 Ford Crown Victoria Chassis / Suspension & Steering Making Noise When turning Always

My car makes a horrible squeeking sound when turning left. It sounds like a door hinge that needs oiled but it is a lot louder. It makes a little noise when turning right, but it is very loud when turning left. It also appears to make the same noise when I push down on the front end of the cat. It makes no difference if I am sitting still or moving and speed makes no difference either. What do you think the problem is?

By the way, I tried spraying wd40 and lithium grease in every moving part of the suspension on the driver's side but it did not help. also, the noise is coming from the left front side of the car

Hello, Try removing the left front wheel and have someone else turn the steering so you can feel and listen for the cause.

Try supporting the car by the frame rail so that the left lower control arm does not bear weight. Grease the ball joint and the outer tie rod end.

If you can isolate the noise to one of these parts, but there is no grease zerk, the part will likely need replaced. On some occasions I have had success with a very small gauge grease needle piercing the exsisting boot on the part and get grease in that way. The tiny hole made won't really have much consequence and hopefully you can buy some time if the part has not worn out.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

1997 Ford Crown Victoria Engine Hesitating When braking No pattern

This just started for the first time today. I'll tap the brakes to get the car out of cruise and the "Check Engine" light will come on. Sometimes the "Low Fuel" light will accompany it. At low idle speed, the engine will stall when the brakes are tapped. 117,000 miles on the Police Intercepter.

First of all, have you had the trouble codes read? If you don't have access to a scan tool autozone or advance auto stores will do this free of charge. Which code(s) is stored?

I went to Autozone, but because the problem is so intermittent, there were no codes. The car ran fine going to the 'zone, but had the problem a couple times on the way home. Just when I hit the brakes, I get the "Check Engine" light, the voltmeter dips, and the engine hesitates. This time I even lost the stereo for a second. I would assume a short in the brakes, but would that cause the engine to hesitate?

Has your car been serviced for recall(s)?

I'll have more information for you tomorrow.

I've only had the car for 2 years. To the best of my knowledge, there hasn't been any recalls.

First off sorry for the delay.

With the engine idling reach up near the top of the brake pedal and gently wiggle wiring harnesses in the area. Seeing if you can recreate the symptoms. Also try the 'wiggle test' under the hood. Do these test with extreme caution, especially around moving engine parts, etc.

There are two major sources of recall information. There have been important recalls, I was curious if you were aware.

http://alldata.com/TSB/19/971916C0.html

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/results.cfm

You may know more about computers than I, in case you don't-
Highlight the above link, click Edit, Copy, and Paste the link into your Address bar.

Another reason I remind you of the recalls that may apply to your car, it gives you a free consultation with a ford dealer tech. If by chance you get a friendly dealer/tech they may investigate the problem free.

Let me know what you find. Intermittents can be difficult.

It turns out it was just corroded battery clamps on the terminals. I cleaned them up and greased them and so far the problem has gone away.

Good job, glad you found the problem and could repair it yourself. It must of just been bothering for a brief instance or you would have had other problems.

1997 Ford Crown Victoria Electrical / Lighting Systems   

The master cylinder cap is defective and when the brakes are applied the fluid spills over on the wiring harness below the master cylinder which has caused the electrical system to dim and smoke comes from under the hood. The wiring harness seems melted into the brake lines coming from the master cylinder. I pulled the wiring harness off of the brake lines but now when you hit the brakes the car dies and won't restart until you undo the battery cable and reconnect it.

Yes it sounds like you have a shotr circuit.It probably started in the plug-in part of the firewall.Remove that plug first, and check for damage on connectors.
The wires can be individually replaced, but I recommend replacing the entire harness under the hood. Avail from wrecker, not difficult to replace, takes about two hours to do.

What is the harness called? where can I get one? Thank you for your help in this?

It is just called the underhood engine wiring harness.Probably not avail from Ford, you would not like their price! A wrecker is reasonably priced.There are wreckers near you place?

Okay...now I see that when the brakes are slammed the volt meter drops to zero and the brake fluid is actually boiling over and the brake lines are so hot you can't touch them...the wiring harness is fine and isn't touching the brake lines...the positive battery cable (which is also extremely hot) has to be unhooked and once reconnected the car starts fine and it doesn't happen again until you slam on the brakes several times...sometimes the voltmeter drops to zero just for a second and then goes to normal and sometimes it stays on zero and the brake fluid boils over...any ideas?

Also, the cap may or may not be the only problem....there could be a problem with the Master Cylinder as well

I know it's not the cap...the cap would not cause the brake lines to heat up so hot that it causes the brake fluid to boild over...please read carefully what I wrote to you earlier...

If the brake fluid is contaminated (water,etc) this will lower the boiling temprerature. Has the fluid ever been flushed and filled?

Also are any of the brakes sticking?

The brakes don't seem to be sticking...I will tell you that the same time the brakes lines are hot and the brake fluid boils over...the voltmeter points to "L" (for low)...the lights on the dash and the radio dim and the positive cable on the battery is hot and you have to disconnect it and reconect it for it to stop heating up...so I don't think the fluid is the problem...what is causing the brake lines to heat up and the fluid to boil over and the lights to dim when you slam on the brakes?

Under what conditons did the battery cable get hot? Does the key have to be ON? Only when you press the brake pedal? Etc?

Be very careful, this direct short can cause the battery to explode.

Tuns out the batter cable was rubbing on a frame bolt...got it fixed yesterday....you should keep this for future reference.

Thanks,
Mark

You are lucky the PCM & alternator were not damaged, good work.

1997 Ford Crown Victoria Electrical / Lighting Systems   

turn signals and hazard lights do not work.

Hi, Let me get a wiring diagram. It is likely the flasher.

Roger

Thanks for responding.
The dealer thinks it is both the switch and control module. in addition to a wiring diagram, he said that they did a jump around the switch in the steering column and it did not work. I think a bad control unit would explain that anyway.
I would like to know the location of the control unit and breakdown on how to remove the steering wheel if that is necessary.
LeRoy

I checked Autozone.com and found the following statement for the flasher location:

Front seating area, driver side, behind instrument panel, passenger side of steering column, mounted on panel. The wiring diagram shows a lighting control module has the flasher duties.

What is your email address? I'll be glad to send you the diagram.

I suggest starting with the module location described above. I doubt the problem to be inside the steering column at all.

Roger

Thanks, I think that might be right. Much better not to get into the steering column.

My direct email is:
[redacted]

Thank you, The email is on the way.

Roger

I am having trouble finding the lighting control module. Is there a picture of it and its location? I will have to continue with the work tomorrow.

thanks,
LeRoy

I'll have to look for a picture tomorrow when I can access the data base that is best for such a request.

Did you have enough light to see the wire colors? Sometimes the wire colors help me find a device I'm looking for.

Is there an access panel below the steering column that will come off and allow more room to see and work? Often under a dash colored trim panel there is a metal panel (knee bolster) that also can be removed for the room to see.

Roger

Thanks for the message. I'll try for colors tomorrow.

LeRoy

LeRoy,

I'll send the only pic of behind the dash I could find. It does not show the lamp module but might help you see what is NOT the module.

Roger

thank you. I have more covers out and think I may be able to see it. checking the part number now.
Leroy

Email is on the way.

Roger

I have the module located and can easily remove it. Now I am trying to find one in the denver area. Thanks for your help. I will leave this open in case I run into trouble, but should be OK now. I'll close this out after I am finished.

You have been very helpful.

LeRoy

My pleaseure anytime.

I thank you,

Roger

I have replaced the lighting control module (which the dealer said needed to be replaced) with no change in the problem.

The dealer also said the multifunction switch needed to be replaced. I need to remove the steering wheel and air bag to get to that. How risky/hard is it to remove the airbag? I can get a steering wheel puller and a new switch. How does one safely remove the air bag?

LeRoy

Good news, the air bag does not need to come off. Disconnect the car battery. Next, tilt the column down as far as it will go and remove the tilt lever.

Put the key in the ignition and turn to on position. Insert a tool such as a punch up through a hole in the trim below the ignition lock cylinder and press the release tab, then pull the lock cylinder out.

Remove the shroud trim around the column for access. Remove two self tapping screws securing the multi-function switch and disconnect two electrical connectors to remove the switch.

Assembly is reverse order.

Roger

thank you very much. I will try that.

When I get the job finished, I will send more (well deserved) money.

LeRoy

You are saving some serious money here. I like that!

Roger

I have it working. Thank you so much for your super help. How do I send $20 more.

Roger has been very efficient in both quality and timeliness of responses.

LeRoy

LeRoy,

Please click on OK to finish up to close the question.

You may write to All-Parts.com, Administrator, All Parts to address your question "How do I send $20 more"? His address is:

mark @all-parts.com

I thank you!

Roger

1997 Ford Crown Victoria Electrical / Lighting Systems   

My '97 Crown Vic (police pkg) has started blowing a 10 amp fuse (marked instr.) When it does this all the gauges in the instrument cluster cease to function or register a false reading. Have had several shops look at it and no one has a clue.

What has been tried? Have they thorougly inspected the instrument cluster connector, looking for any melting?

1996 Ford Crown Victoria All Part Groups  When accelerating Always

Engine miss between 30-40 mph. under normal allceration feel no miss whe accellatrin hard

Hello, What engine please? Have you inspected the spark plug wires for condition? Have you removed the spark plugs and looked for carbon tracking down the outside of the plug?

How old are the plugs and wires? Is the check engine light on?

Please advise,

Roger

Have just replaced wires. Plugs about 40,000mi/ 170,000 mi on 4.5 police incp/ Woul trans. cause miss?

I'm not thinking transmission due to the low speed of the miss. Low speed light acceleration miss is often a cracked spark plug or carbon tracking down the outside of a plug. Carbon tracking looks like lead pencil lines on the porcelin and the spark will follow this path if present.

Roger

THANK YOU,WILL CHECK PLUGS
[redacted]

What did you find please?

Roger

Hav not had a chance to check plugs laid up from surgery
BUD

Get well Bud. No pressure from me, I will wait.

Roger

1996 Ford Crown Victoria All Part Groups   

1996 crown vic 126.000 miles check engine light just came on. Good maintainence. =

Oil pressure fine Coolant level and temp fine. Air filter....not sure.

need to pull codes could be any number of sensors

1996 Ford Crown Victoria Drive Train / Driveline   

transmision shift only an reverse

Unfortunatly there is not much that the average person can do with an automatic transmission.
Ensure that the fluid level is up to the correct amount and not broen or burnt.
If you have access to a lift or hoist, you can check operation of the shifter linkage by shifting through the gears while an assistant checks for movement of the linkage at the drivers side of the transmission.
Usually when the trans is worn out but still goes into reverse, the trans is salvageable (rebuildable).
A good option is to find a decent condition used trans at an auto wrecker in your area, and have the 'dead' one replaced.They usually come with guarantees.

well the transmision was doing good i change the intake maniful because was licking antifres then i take the car for little raid, transmision doing yes fine then i parck the car for minutes .star the car again an the trany don go forward yes on reverse

Ok , first check the vacuun lines and hoses at the rear of the engine. And check the wiring as something probably came loose,

OK" i will do the checking an i contact yuo an later days Tnks'

1995 Ford Crown Victoria Electrical / Lighting Systems  Happens always Always

no running lights. headlights come on but nothing else. Flashers work, brake lights work, no fuses are bad. Put new switch in still no tail or running lights. Courtesy lamp works, everything else works. only parking lights don't come on. Also checked power fuses under hood. None out.

Hello, Have you seen a wiring schematic for your car?

I need clarification on your car's problem:

Is the goal here to get park lights (front) and tail lights? When you say running lights are you referring to Daytime Running Lights (DTRL) as well?

You've stated "flashers work"...meaning turn signals, or emergency flashers?

I'll get to the data base today to research for suggestions to send you. Do you have a fax number? Is a cover sheet for a fax needed?

Please advise,

Roger

Daytime lights are not a feature on my car. Turn signals work whether driving or parked. Flashers work meaning used them to see if all bulbs worked. When driving at night running lights meaning side markers & tail lights don't work. When I turn on headlights they & the dash lights are the only lights that come on. When I put lights on parking lights only no lights except dash lights come on. Replaced switch/same problem. Spent hours looking for corrosion &/or break in wires. Fax # is [redacted] . No cover page needed.

Behind the left side of the instruement panel you'll find a Lighting Control Module.
Since fuses 4, 6, 13 are all verified good the headlamp switch terminal #3 (when on or park lamp mode) will output voltage on the White/Black wire to the Lighting Control Module terminal #13. The module will then close an internal relay circuit and output voltage on terminal #14 Brown wire to power the park/tail/tag lights.

If when you locate the Lighting Control Module and the head/park light switch is turned on you find battery voltage arriving on the White/Black wire terminal #13 but there is no battery voltage output on terminal #14 Brown wire, the module is bad and needs to be replaced.

The fax schematics are "fine print" and hard to read but I'll gladly send them to you. I explained what to look for should you have dificulty reading the drawings.

Please advise,

Roger

One other note to help you locate the Lighting Control Module...It has four connectors plugged into it. You'll see the connector numbers and wire colors on the schematic as well.

Roger

Have you had the chance to locate the Lighting control module for diagnosis?

Roger

Not yet. Working 12's, haven't had a chance. Where would I purchase a lighting control module if that turns out to be the problem?

Parts will most likely be a Ford Dealer or Salvage item. It sure won't hurt to try a national auto parts chain store.

When you look under the left side of the dash look for the module in the area above the accelerator pedal. You'll want to remove the left under dash close-out panel for access.

Roger

How are you doing with this repair? Haven't heard in awhile.

Thanks,

Roger

Will you please update the status of this question?

Thanks,

Roger

1995 Ford Crown Victoria Engine  When accelerating Always

Hello,

I have a 1995 Crown Vic P71 4.6L. 105K miles. Starts and idles smooth. Backfires through the intake on normal accelaration. Runs OK at WOT. Check engine light is not on.

Checked for vacuum leaks, none. Tested EGR valve with
a mighty-vac, that's OK too. Tested coils with meter, both are good. Correct firing order.
Idles smooth, highway drive is OK. Just bad intake
backfire on normal acceleration. It's so bad it blew apart my airbox!

Did new plugs and wires.

EGR valve is working normal. Ran with it disconnected, same problem.

Might try to go back to basics, a compression test and hooking up a vacuum guage to an intake port.
A leaking intake valve?

Not leaking egr valve, leaking intake valve.
You might also want to remove the egr also and look under it to see if some carbon has built up on the pintle.
The part that confuses me a little is the running rough under load.
I have a Taurus, and had a Ford p/u that exibited similar problems that eventually got worse and would not run smooth except at idle.
Although a malfunctioning egr might introduce exhaust gas into the intake tract too soon and cause stumbling, it might be the MAP sensor, as it was on the afore mentioned Taurus and the P/U.
As the map sensor senses engine load and ajusts timing accordingly,it might be prudent to give it a lok.
PS: The Taurus is running fine for 10 months after replacing the MAP sensor

I will look at the MAP sensor. Good idea.

I did a compression test today. No smoking gun there, all cylinders 130-140 PSI. When I pulled the plugs I saw everything from white buildups to mild carbon fouling. I think my injectors need a good cleaning, but I doubt that's my main problem.

A freind suggested a worn cam lobe. I'm also thinking maybe a lazy valve spring. Need to pull the valve covers and have a look see.

How do you test the MAP sensor? Can it be done with a meter?

Let me know how it works out

A volt/ohm meter and a vacuum source

This is strange...

I left the battery disconnected for 15 min to clear out the computer. I then drove the car with the MAF disconnected. I thought this would show if it was bad MAF data causing the backfires.

The car drove the same. But here's the strange part. Driving with the MAF disconnected didn't trigger the check engine light. That should have turned on, right? The light is hooked up, it lights up for a second like it should when I start the car.

Would that indicate a bad ECM?

Since the ECM is the place that sends the signal from, I would say yes.You might want to disconnect another sensor or two and see if that trips the check engine light.
Crown Victorias should be all over the Auto Wreckers out there, as they are here, so a good used ECM is a possibility.
I expect, that when you change it, you will get more than one code too!
Most of us would prefer not to see the check engine light on, but this is one time it would be good to see it!

1995 Ford Crown Victoria All Part Groups   

stering column ignition switch housing replacement

Unfortunatly it is a job beyond the scope of the average backyard mechanic.
The steering wheel and airbag has to come out.The column has to be lowered (some recommend removing the entire column)
A special Ford tool is required to then remove the switch.
As there was a warranty recall for that year Ford Ignition Switches (they caught on fire) you may want to inquire if yours is still covered.

Your Info was incorrect. I was able to remove the column in approximatly two hours and then replace the ignition key housing. No special tools were required.
Just some wrenches,snapring pliers,screw drivers,and sockets. Thanks for your help.

Hope the project went well, as there is always a concern about airbags functioning properly. Glad it was an easy repair and that you had snapring pliers!

1995 Ford Crown Victoria Fuel System   

The interior of the car smells somewhat similar to a gasoline smell. There is no smell of gasoline outside of the car. I have changed the fuel filter,had the gas tank checked and looked for leaks and made sure the vents to the tank are not clogged. What is this odor?

This is either from a leaky fuel line from the tank to engine OR the vent hoses (charcoal canister) for vapor recovery.

A misfire can cause this... if the smell appears when the engine is started and the engine performance is reduced. A flooding condition can also cause a strong gas smell, such as the case from a fuel pressure regulator with an internal leak.

Does the car ever run rough or does the check engine light ever come on?

Gas smells can come from many places.
A stuck EGR valve,a vacuum hose off, bad 02 sensors (engine running rich) fuel press regulator, fuel rail or injector leak, and I have seen ex cop cars that had equipment installed and holes in trunk floor made too deep!Equip removed, gas smell in trunk, then interior.
Sometimes the inside of A/C vents get mouldy and that can smell too!

1994 Ford Crown Victoria Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

The interior lights will not go out, and the doors do not automatically lock when vehicle is put in park. The door ajar switchs are all working.

Hello, Have you checked all the fuses to see if they are good? A coin, staple, metal gum wrapper or any metalic object can get into a cigar lighter socket and pop the fuse. I check them all.

Cellular phone chargers that get inserted crooked, radar detectors..any accessory that plugs in can pop a fuse.

There may be a timer for these lights involved but since the shifting to PARK no longer affects the door locks, I'm thinking we are missing a fuse controled circuit.

Please advise,

Roger

1994 Ford Crown Victoria Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

Voltage meter on console is reading "High". Brand new interstate battery. One shop tested and said alternator was putting out 17+ volts and needs to be replaced. Another mechanic said that 17+ volts is OK.

When I leave the battery cable on all night, the battery is dead in the morning. There seems to be a short pulling current even when the ignition is off. I can see a spark jump when I disconnect the cable.

Am thinking of replacing alternator, but am not sure where the voltage regulator is, nor what other electrical system components may contribute to this high voltage reading and dead battery in morning.

AC Compressor is burned out. Literally started smoking away. I disconnected the two wires to AC clutch. Also, removed the 30A blower fuse. Don't know if this is related, but electrical system problems started when the AC started acting up.

The battery had to be replaced, according to the mechanic it was dead.

You can have your alternator tested off the car at most chain autoparts stores, free of charge. Inform them you know output is good (to good) and that you suspect the alternator may be draining the battery.

17 and more volts is considered high.

The short circuit may be in the alternator or elsewhere. Whatever is consuming the electricity will be getting hot.

An alternator is supposed to put out 14-15 volts. If it goes to 16 or 17 volts, it will first cook the battery and then burn up the electronics such as radio, computers, headlights, modules.....

You either have a bad alternator or a bad ground wire to the alternator. If you do not fix it promptly, you will need another battery and possibly more parts. The regulator is built into the alternator.

Your battery drain at night may also be the alternator, or some other item draining the battery. Check the alternator first since it needs to be fixed and it may take care of both problems.

To Sterlingfixer,

Yes, I was beginning to think that if it fries the battery, then it would begin frying other parts. And I can verify my alt voltage output on the console. Sometimes it will be normal, lots of time high. It seems to have just gotten a little higher, from on the "H" to a little above.
I just wanted to make sure there wasn't a simple thing I could do first, like check the alt. ground wire.
In terms of changing the alternator "promptly', are we talking with days and a few miles? I'm already looking at about 2 weeks and 250 miles since I changed the battery and mechanic told me it was charging at 17+V. It seems like the computer would have circuitry to protect against high input voltage.

I got one response from the mechanic, then I asked another question, and I've been under status "In Conversation With Mechanic" for a couple of hours with no response.

Please let me know if I should continue waiting for answser to question.

Sorry, I slept for the night.

You can test the wiring by using a voltmeter (not the one on the car) and testing the voltage between the alternator output terminal (large wire) and the alternator case. This is the true output of the alternator at the present time.

If it was my car, I would have this fixed promptly as in today or tomorrow.

If you get a rotten egg smell as you are driving, that is the battery boiling over.

Sterlingfixer

Can I keep this question open as I begin to work on the car? Then it may be open for more days.

That is no problem. Sometimes it takes several weeks.

I made an orignal offer of $12. Is there a way to increase offer, for instance if I am very satisfied with the extra effort you provide?

The service is set up on a commission basis. I am the mechanic and get a percentage of what you give. The web host gets the balance. If you want to send a tip to me, email me for details. [redacted]

Sterlingfixer,

See (x) for actual questions to save time.

Wow. Just like you said. I left for Houston from Dallas on 10/12, and sure'nough, voltage reading and coolant temperature got higher. Stopped the car and battery was steaming over.

Changed the alternator myself in Madisonville and everthing works great. I did however end up installing the standard CV alternator with 95 amp output, vs. the 135 amp police package type. (1) Do you think this will cause a future problem?

As far as myself and the parts store people figured, there's no difference in amp consumption between standard CV and police package, unless you have all the police lights, interior computer, etc. Have a feeling may not be right, but I had to get out of Madisonville and that was the only alternator in town. (2) Is this true?

BTW, though the battery nearly boiled all the water out of it, after adding about 1 gallon of water to the 6 cells, it worked fine. It's a brand new high-end Interstate model, so I figure that's why I got by. Also, I stopped before the casing melted and before all the water boiled away. (3) Do you think I've seriously lowered the life of battery?

Also, now the car seems to start even if I leave the cable connected, so the electrical short must have been in the alternator, the regulator probably. I had to change the 3-wire connector to the alt to accommodate the standard 95-amp model.

Thanks for bearing with me.

George
Japan_Monger

The alternator should be fine. The battery life will probably be shortened by a year or three.

1994 Ford Crown Victoria Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Two possibly-related problems with my 94 Crown Victoria:

1.Once-in-a-while I start my 94 Crown Victoria, begin driving, and within 20 to 60 seconds it will honk three times and the door locks will go up and down three times. It will repeat this behavior in another couple of minutes and then not continue to repeat the behavior. A couple of times it has repeated the behavior for maybe 10 episodes. Its unpredictable. I unplugged one fuse, but there are several fuses that the manual says are related to the remote key. At I bought my 94 Crown V from my father-in-law and have never used the electronic key.

Do you have the remote transponder?If so change the battery and try using it.It may have to be re-programed.There is a series to go thru to do so but try the battery first.

I got rid of the electronic key (I think that's what the transponder is, right?) when I bought the car. The other problem I was going to mention, when I accidentally, pressed enter, is that two or three times I have come out of my office and found my trunk open and doors unlocked--nothing missing. That hasn't happened for several weeks, however. My assumption was that someone in the parking lot electronically unlocked their car and my car responded to their signal.

The theroy of someoelse having a transponder(the little black box you hang on the key chain)is possible but now that you say you don't have one,I would have to suspect the unit itself is getting a mixed signal from within the electrical.You say the owners manual shows fuse locations for the system so I take it this is a fatory installed system.If so you can have the system manually disarmed if the fuse didnt do so already.I wouldn't suggest trying this yourself unless you are knowledgable in wiring schematics.There are a number of functions in the harness attached to the unit that need to be bypassed.You may want to check with your local dealer or one of the many outlets that sell and install alarms.I seen a time or two where the wrong bypass can cause even more headaches.
Good Luck,
Paul

Thanks. As you suggested, I went to a garage and he took out the factory-installed unit and now we're just fine.

Good to hear the news,
Good Luck,
Paul

1994 Ford Crown Victoria Electrical / Lighting Systems   

When the headlight switch is ON I have NO dash lights Tail lights, but headlights work. At times the headlights will flash on and off on the odd ocassion that the dash lights DO work. This is not a fuse (checks good) not bulbs. What else is there that can be checked, Replaced?

headlight switch

1994 Ford Crown Victoria All Part Groups   

two questions...(1)my speedo works but the milage does not clock up what do I need to do to fix this? (2)mostly between 40-50 mph the car will buck like its trying to drop down a gear and some times does not engage at all and over revs what is the problem? and what is the solution?

The speedometer and the odometer receive the same signal. The odometer may have a gear in a bind and need the helpof a speedometer repair shop.

The engine reving instead of the transmission shifting can be serious if it is slipping. I recommend seeking a good transmission man to road test the car with you and evaluate it for an estimate.

Was the fluid level full when you checked it?

Roger

the fluid level is full, I have also been given some info regarding cleaning theidle air control motor and channel and disconecting the negative for one min, in respect to the trans problem.would you recomend this.

Cleaning the idle air control motor and channel will address an idle issue that results in the engine dies often when you let off the accelerator.

Disconnecting the battery to clear codes and the computer's adaptive memory of driving habits will not clear up a transmission slip or a flair in engine rpm during a shift.

Roger

thanks for the good advice, i will have it checked a.s.a.p.

If you are ready to close this question please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

1994 Ford Crown Victoria Drive Train / Driveline   

Transmission having problem up-shifting to 4th/OD at low accelerations. This rebuilt was installed a week ago. Previous transmission had same problem, so transmission specialist thinks it is an electrical issue.
However, had the computer codes checked a number of times and there are no error codes.
At this point I'm just trying to figure out if the problem is mechanical (transmission) or some electrical issues. This would help me to fiugre ou
Thanks a lot for your help.

Check to see that all vacuum lines are in good condition and connected.A vacuum leak might not show up on a typical scan. Assuming that all the levels are correct and the cables are adjusted properly, you might want to drive for a week or so, and see if the problem persist. Transmissions require a bit of a break-in period and (hopefully) the problem will resolve itself.

Thanks for your reply. I will speak to my transmission mechanic about the vacuum problem. My car is idling rough, so maybe the two are related.

My transmission mechanic drove the car today and he says he now understands the problem and will fix it next week. I think he is thinking in terms of the internal workings.

QU1: Will you stay online with me next week as I get further information?

QU2: I think there is a way I can increase my offer fee (which is now $15) later on in the process, is that right?

1994 Ford Crown Victoria Drive Train / Driveline   

I bought an ex-police 1994 Ford Crown Vic with unknown miles for my college kids. We changed the transmission fluid and filter -including the torque converter. All looked pretty clean inside.
The kids drove it another 4,000 miles and now the transmission has intermittent problems - "comes out of gear." The problem is now getting worse and happens most frequently when slowing to turn a corner or at highway speeds.
Ford ran diagnostics on the car but could find nothing. We changed the MLP/TR sensor anyway but that did not solve the problem.
Someone else suggested a bad wiring harness to the transmission. Also I read on this web site about TV linkage problems. Any idea?

What did Ford diagnostics consist of? Did they just check computer trouble codes or did they perform full transmission diagnostics (line pressures, etc)?

When the transmission apparently shifts to neutral, does it recover right away or must you stop the vehicle? Does the vehicle have to cool down to correct the problem?

I know this sounds too simple, but did you check the fluid level? If you are "dropping out" on corners and slowing, it sounds like a shortage of fluid in the pan.

2nd easiest solution could be a defective, or disconnected filter. If it can suck air at the top while cornering, it will "drop out".

The other possible problems will be more difficult/expensive to find. It could involve monitoring voltage with a scanner or voltmeter, or monitoring line pressures with a gage.

Check the simple things first!

Fluid level has been checked and is ok.
Service station pulled the transmission pan and says the oil filter is ok.
When this started, my college kids - car is off at college 250 miles away - tell me they stop, shift into park, back into drive, and it would go. Hence my concern that the MLP/TR was bad. Now they tell me it takes 30 seconds before it will go again.

The MLP/TR sensor can do things like that. They are trouble-prone enough that I would suggest to replace it.

Make sure it is adjusted properly and that the connector is in good condition. Use a new Motorcraft part!

We did that and with a Motorcraft part. I'm still thinking the transmission is starving for fluid. I know the service station rechecked the filter but I don't know if they replaced it - probably should have.

It could be a cheap fix. It seems your problem started not so long after the filter was changed.

If it ends up being an electronic problem, it will take a good electronics tech to find and repair it. If it were a mechanical problem, it will take a transmission rebuild or replacement.

I would replace the filter if it were my car.

1994 Ford Crown Victoria Electrical / Lighting Systems   

1994 Crown Vic LX-
Last week when I turned off my w/s wipers, the wiper arms went to a vertical position when shut off. wise I have normal wiper function.
I read some Internet posts that said it was probably the wiper motor. Since the motor was old and noisy, I replaced the motor with an aftermarket Dorman motor which had an adapter wiring harness I had to use on my model.
The wipers now run very quiet and have normal function, EXCEPT now they return to the lower windshiled area (normal rest position for active wipers turned "on"), but they do not retract below the hood line the way they used to do when they are turned off.

For reference, the multi function switch on the steering column was replaced a couple years ago for a turn sigal failure (broken tab), so I believe that the Wiper Control Module (WCM) may be where the wiper retraction feature is controlled and what may need replacing?

Thanks

Steve Seawell
email: ceewell@yahoo.com
cell: 425-750-6958

I think I'd ask for another motor to try first, not uncommon to have trouble with aftermarket parts-- especially when they require an adapter for the product to work.

Do you have a multimeter? If you have one I'll try to send you test instructions although they could be scewed with the adapter. It would really be nice to try another motor.

I have another motor on order due in Wednesday.
My intial impression was the same as yours regarding wire harness adapter. I should know in a few days. Thanks

Okay let me know and we'll dig deeper if necessary.

The 2nd wiper motor from Schucks (auto parts chain store) was dead on arrival and didn`t work at all. Luckily I rigged it to check how it worked without assembling all the cowling. As I pulled the 2nd bad motor out of the lower cowling tray, I noticed a little sticker that said "Made in China". That pretty much told me everything I needeed to know!
I went directly to Ford and got a motor for twice the price and it worked perfect.
Schucks took 4 days to get each of the 2 motors / 8 days total wasted time and a couple hours of fooling around in the Washington State cold rainy winter.
Ford got me a good motor in 4 hours the same day.
I guess I learned my lesson here and would have lost my ass on labor if this wasn`t my own car. I was a assistant service manger at a BMW dealership years ago, so I feel even more stupid. Looks like you can`t trust auto part stores for anything any more?
Thanks for your help. Case closed.

1994 Ford Crown Victoria Drive Train / Driveline   

the transmission when you put the reverse into gear it will not go back into reverse why?

Hello, Is the fluid level full? Have you checked the shift linkage for adjustment or worn parts?

If the above is in order the problem is internal and will require transmission repair or replacement.

Roger

I can give you some things to check, but first of all does the transmission shift fine in forward gears?

Does the shifting lever feel the same when you select different gears?

1994 Ford Crown Victoria Drive Train / Driveline   

When travelling level or up a slight incline at 35-40 mph, the car "bucks" until past 45 mph. If you try to maintain 35- 40 the bucking is continuous. 60,000 miles on the car, maintenence record unknown.

Hello, Does it make a difference if you select a lower gear when this condition is present? I'm wondering if the transmission is having problems shifting or could this be a misfiring of the cylinders.....

Roger

This is an automatic trans. If I "punch the accelerator" it wil downshift speed up above 40 shift and be smooth (the bucking stops).
I really think it is a shifting issue. the car cannont decide wether to down shift, up shift, or hold the current gear. It only occurs @ 40 mph on an incline while trying to maintain 40

The 40 mph speed is about the time the trans will go into torque converter lock-up (the clutch in the torque converter applies).

I agree it sounds like a shifting issue and I hope you can/will try this test....

To see if the torque converter clutch (TCC) has the problem staying engaged; drive the car so the condition is present. Next, very lightly apply the foot brake just enough to cause the brake lights to come on. Does the bucking stop? If so, the TCC solenoid might need replacing due to sensitivity. When the brake lights are on the TCC is locked out electrically and will release.

What did you discover with this test? What happens if you drive just a little faster (brakes off) than 40 mph? Does the symptom go away? You may want to avoid any cost if driving a different speed can be done legally and "bypasses", or drives through the problem.

If you can duplicate the symptom by driving the car for a transmission technician and then let him drive and prove to you he too can duplicate the symptom you can ask for a repair estimate. I do not believe changing the fluid and filter will help here.

Roger

Thank you, I will try the test as you recomend. I can usually aviod the issue with my speed, and it is a secondary car for me. The same scenario was mildly noticable at lower speeds(30-35)too. It seems after the trans has shifted, if my speed drops a little (5 mph or so) then a slight re-accel it ocurrs, lik the transmission cant make up its mind on what gear. Is the a speed sensor of some sort involved?

The speed sensor probably won't factor here. If it were goofy the speedometer would be acting up too.

Point of interrest:
I've had some experience with cars with this symptom you are describing turn out to need spark plug wires to fix the problem. The wires had never been changed.

Roger

As it turns out I think you are correct about both issues, the Torque converter and the spark plug wires.
I tried the "test" you mentioned and with a touch on the brake pedal, the bucking stopped. And when I took the car up on the highway, the engine cylinders were not functioning smooth as they should (Spark plug or Wire problems). Thank you for your help and experience, I am confident of what I need to do.

Thank you for your attention to detail getting this checked out.

To close the question please click on OK to finish up.

All the best to you,

Roger

1993 Ford Crown Victoria Engine Malfunction When idling Always

I purchased a 1993 Crown Vic with 281 4.6L. It has been sitting for 2 years. It starts great and makes no noises in engine at all. When it warms up the oil light comes on and the lifters start chattering. What are the chances the oil pick-up screen has hardened and not letting oil come thru????

Chances are pretty good that you have a lot of sludge.. I would attempt to drain the oil and replace one quart with kerosene or diesel. Let run at idle until warm. Drain the oil and replace the oil filter. Fill the engine with oil and run again.. see what the results are.. Try to repeat this once more if you still have the noise upon warm up. If this does not work then you are stuck replacing the pump and stainer. While down there I would also replace the bearings depending upon milage and how well the engine was maintained. Let me know and good luck. AL

1993 Ford Crown Victoria Chassis / Suspension & Steering  Happens always 

My car is scraping the ground when I go over the slightest bump even w/suspension on. I hear the hydraulics motor but the car doesnt seem to lift up please tell me what I can do for this.

You hear the Pneumatic system (air powered) and if you dont have any suport from the air ride system they you have a bad pump (but you hear the motor running) then you wont make air pressure, or you have a cracked line or bad seal to an air bellows or finally you have a failed bellows in the ride system. Not hard to trouble shoot but very dangerous to repair. Let me know if this helps. Maybe I can point you in a better direction. AL

1993 Ford Crown Victoria Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens sometimes When cold

Nov 13/03 9:22AM: My 1993 CV has a problem with its windshield wipers, they will often hesitate and stop when I am using the intermittant switch, put they will also hesitate when I turn them on and off. It seems to do this more when cold. The switch makes a clicking sound when I turn the wiper switch, there also seems to be a clicking noise at the same time from the dashboard, like a module. The wiper moter seems to work finem and I had the goveror replaced because the wipers were getting quite loud. If it is a defective switch do you need to replace the whole blinker arm? or is there a module I can try to replace 1st? Thanks for you help.
Tom"

Hello, The 1993 model has an Internal Governor that receives signal from the Multi-Function Switch to control wiper and washer motor functions. Yes, if you determine the switch to be at fault the whole switch is replaced as an assembly.

Roger

Is there away that I can determine that the stalling of the wipers is being caused by the switch? or maybe another part? What does this problem or clicking noise sound like? Has anyone ever seen a similar problem?
Thanks,
Tom

When the wipers "stall" (condition is present)... if moving the lever arm the switch is on (without rotating the wiper contol switch) causes an effect, there may be a connection within the switch assembly that is failing.

The click you hear when the wipers are activated may be the "Park" switch in the motor case coming "ON" so that wipers may run without parking either in delay or a selected speed. When turned "OFF", the wiper motor park switch is de-energized and spring loaded to take a mechanical position to cause the wiper arms to park and the motor to stop.

Try lightly tapping on the wiper motor case when it has stalled. You won't cause any shock to the switch on the steering column and if the motor restarts, there may be bearings or brushes in the motor case that are failing. A new motor would be the fix in such a senerio.

Roger

One last question, how many components (things that would have to be replaced) are there to these wipers, the wiper motor and the switch assembly, this there other components that from an electrical standpoint run this?
Thanks
Tom

Tom, You stated that you had replaced the governor. Did you find this part under the dash, right of the steering column and mounted on the same bracket as the seatbelt chime? There is a number on this box that starts with the Ford Part Base number of 17C476. If that is what you replaced, we need to go elsewhere for a fix. If you did not replace this box, that is where we need to be right now. Ford has more failures of this box than the other parts in the wiper system.

Roger

Is there a name for that part? 17c476?
Thnaks
Tom

Sir, that part is indeed the "Internal Governor" for the windshield wiper system. There will be more to the part number than the 17C476 but that is how the number starts out (base). It's about $ 75-80 U.S. at a Ford Dealer.

Roger

What is happening here, please? Have I provided the help you were seeking?

Please advise,

Roger

1993 Ford Crown Victoria Electrical / Lighting Systems Dimming When driving When warm 

My lights go dim then off when driving. Do you have any advice? Thanks G.Dotson

Hello, Are you talking about exterior lights? Do all of them dim and go completely out?

Have you inspected the headlamp switch connector for overheating? How strong is the battery and alternator?

Roger

Hello, are you working on this one or are you finished?

Please update,

Roger

1993 Ford Crown Victoria Electrical / Lighting Systems   

The fuse that controls the rear window defoger, tempature selector, and gear selector continues to pop. A shop has looked it over found nothing and replaced the 15 amp fuse with a 20 amp fuse. The 20 amp fuse is also blowing.

What the shop need to do is disconnect components one by one to see which one stops the fuse from blowing. Alternatively they could disconnect each component and reconnect until they find the offending component. They could also use a test meter/light to locate the problem. If the problem is intermittent a wiggle test can be very helpful to locate the fault. Simply wiggle wiring attempting to recreate the short.

1993 Ford Crown Victoria Engine   

I've seen a few posts that were similar to the problem I'm having,but not close enough to solve the problem. Upon accelerating the car begins to buck or stumble at all speeds and you have to let off the pedal and sort of feather the gas pedal to get it to accelerate again but if you push it the least bit too hard, it begins to buck or stumble and it dies very very often.When it dies you must shift to Neutral , turn the Ignition OFF and Then ON again in order to restart it. It WILL NOT RESTART UNLESS THE IGNITION IS TURNED TO THE OFF POSITION AND AND THEN BACK ON.This happens every single time the car is started and driven from one place to another.I have replaced the plugs and wires and the cam sensor!Please Help Me

When you try to restart the engine (w/o key off) does the engine fire at all?

Does it run fine when it restarts, any smoke? Does it run fine once you reach highway speeds?

It will turn over but will not restart unless you turn the key off and then on again.No smoke.

1992 Ford Crown Victoria Chassis / Suspension & Steering Making Noise When driving Always

Rotors are grinding a groove in the brake housing,could this be the bearings are bad, the hub feels tight,already changed pads and rotors.

When you say the brake housing, is that the caliper? If so, make sure everthing is lined up and that the bushings on the caliper are still good. Many Fords have plastic-like caliper bushings that can wear. If the bushings are good and the front bearings are good and properly adjusted, all should be well.

Tyler

I am pretty sure the bearing is ok,seems tight but should I take the hub off and check it anyway? If I need to replace the bushing,should I replace the caliper?

Remove the caliper and support it with some wire. Don't dangle it on the brake hose. If the hub is the standard roller bearing, remove the cap, cotter pin and adjust. (tighten the nut to about 12 foot pounds and them back off and snug loosely. Replace cotter pin! There should be just a hair of freeplay. If the bearing is a sealed unit, (I don't think so) there is no adjustment. Now, inspect the caliper for leaks. Then get some new bushings(a hardware kit from NAPA or auto zone usually contains the bushings or sleeves)(some can be pruchased separately from Ford. Put the new bushings in the caliper. Install the caliper. Make sure the pads are proprly seated. Everything should be lined up. Believe it or not, sometimes a caliper can be misinstalled. Take care and things should be OK. You may have a friend who has done this before. Don't be afraid to ask.

Tyler

1992 Ford Crown Victoria Fuel System   

I have 40 lbs of gas pressure. I have compression and spark. we put a new computer in the car. the injectors are not opening up. all the spark plugs are dry and the car wont run

why did you put in a new computer?
did you determine that it was malfunctioning?
what size engine do you have and what were the problems with the car prior to this incident?

i was going down the the road at 45 mph when the car just quit. We checked the gas pressure and we had 40lbs of pressure. We have compression and spark in the cylndars. We tried hooking it up to the computer but it found nothing wrong. We called the ford garage and thats what they said it was the computer. The car is a 1992 ford crown victoria v8 4.6 liter police interceptor

since you have installed a new computer now will be a good time to check for codes again to see if something comes up.
and to see if you have gotten closer to a fix.
correct me if I am wrong but it seems that you are experiencing the same symtoms with this new computer as you were with the old one and if that is the case we will need to look at another probable cause like maybe a broken wire to the injectors.
do you have power to the injectors with either computer?

1990 Ford Crown Victoria Engine   

I recently changed the water pump and all hoses from the radiator and water pump. Have no leaks, but the car is now stalling when at a stop light. It starts right back up, but is keeps cycling like the thermostat is opening and closing. It is not overheating.

what engine do you have and were there any other problems with the car before servicing the hoses and pump?
You may have thrown your choke out of adjustment while moving things around on the engine or accidentaly pulled off a vacume line on the engine, listen for air suction around the intake manifold

It is the 5.0L engine, and no problems with the idle before I did the work on the car.

The first thing to check would be for a vacume leak loose or cracked hose

1989 Ford Crown Victoria Ignition System Won't Start Happens sometimes No pattern

v8 5.0 car will start no problem.some times wont start at all.ill wait a day or so it will start right up and run for days with no problems.then it wont start again.

In these situations you have to determine what is lost during no start,

1. When you first turn the key on does the check engine light come on as it normally does?

2. Can you hear the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds when the key is first turned on?

3. Is there spark to the plugs?

4. Is there injector pulse to the fuel injectors?

1989 Ford Crown Victoria Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Guys, I bought an 89 Crown Vic that has the interior gutted. Most of the wiring is still there minus the guages and dash panel. I need to know what wires need hooked up to keep the car running, starting, and battery charging. It will be a fuel injected race car when finished. Nothing under the hood has been touched.

Will it run now?

The things you mentioned should operate from the ignition switch and fuse panel.

sometimes it will start, I think it has a battery problem or it's not charging, my meter broke. The fuse panel is hanging by wires, and the steering column is a mess with wires everywhere. Is there a wire to the computer that I need to keep hot and let the computer do its thing under the hood or is there several

I forgot to mention that I would like to make it as simple as possible with a couple toggle switches and a push button starter

The computer needs to be powered up. It also needs inputs from sensors and to maintain its path back things it actuates (ie- fuel injectors).

The absolute first thing you should do is charge the battery and start the engine with the battery charger still on. You need to get the engine running properly before you start splicing wires, or you'll have no way to know when you make a mistake. I assume you don't know the actual running condition of the engine before the wires rearranged.

Actually, I have seen the car started and run. I know the engine runs strong. Can you tell me what color the power wire to the computer would be or where to find it. As I said before the feed backs from under the hood have not been touched, is there some other feed backs from the inside of the car that I need to worry about?

besides the ignition switch , fuse panel and relays the most common problem people over look is the ground wires. the best advice i can give you in this case is to go to your local autoparts and purchase a repair manual for that vehicle - in the back they have pretty detailed wiring diagrams-they only cost about $18. reply if you need anything else.

Hello, What engine please?

Roger

It is a 5.0,

Where would you like for me to send you some wiring diagrams? Email or fax? Please advise the address or number.

Roger

If you could email them to me that would be great. Sorry for the wait I have been out of the office.

Please advise the email address and I'll be glad to send some diagrams. I have not yet found what I'd like for you to have concerning instrument panel gauges.

No apology is necessary. This is Fathers Day weekend and I'm happy for the interuptions that keep happening here.

Roger

My e-mail address is [redacted] . I'd like to see what you have, but I have stripped everything out except for 2 wires and it is still running. I also found the starter solenoid wire. I think that I can narrow everything down to 3 toggle switches and 1 push button.

All right. I'll send what I have for what it is worth.

Roger

1989 Ford Crown Victoria Electrical / Lighting Systems Failing Happens sometimes No pattern

I am having issues with the charging system not charging this is on the 5.0 engine. The alternator has been tested and replaced, the battery is also new. The car did have heated windshield that has been removed but the steps to bypass that system have been done correctly. Please any help would be appreciated to why it won't charge. Also the alternator plug wires have also been replaced and are new.

Hello, Does your car have warning lights or gages?

If you have warning lights..does the battery warning light come on when the key is ON and the engine is not running? If it is burned out or removed the system will not charge.

Please advise,

Roger

The car has warning lights and the amp light does work.

Are you continuing to use the 100 amp alternator with the external regulator?

Roger

It is a 100 amp alternator but not sure on the external regulator

Let me email a wiring diagram to you. Something may prompt you where to look.

At this point I have no understanding of how the charging system was modified to eliminate the heated windshield circuits on your car. Can you enlighten me?

What is your email address please?

Roger

[redacted] I would appreciate the wiring diagram. the problem has me stummped unless it is the relay for the charging system and the heated windshield. I can send you the instructions about the heated windshield issue sometime tomorrow, I will have to scan them onto my memory stick and email them to you.

I'll get the email coming to you. I hope it helps.

Roger

Email is completed.

Roger

Hi, Any news here? Just checking in with you...

Roger

1989 Ford Crown Victoria Electrical / Lighting Systems   

turn signals inoperative dash lights inoperative back up lights inoperative

Start by pulling and testing the fuse. If it goes beyond this, let me know if you have a multimeter to test the circuitry.

replaced fuses annd flasher unit

yes i used a multimeter

1989 Ford Crown Victoria Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Cruise control and brake lights: about the same time the cruise stopped disengaging when the brakes were applied, the brake lights also stopped working (signals, flashers, running lights all work fine). All fuses appear to be intact.

Ok this is an easy one. You have to stick your head under the dash, by the steering column.On the arm above the brake pedal you will see a switch.(Usually has 2-4 wires to it)When pedal pushed down, a small plunger comes out of the switch.If it does not come out, try to make it come out with your fingernail.(pedal down at same time)
If it comes out check brake lights.If still no work, then replace with new switch.Parts store ebay etc about $15-20
The brake pedal switch has two functions.One brake lights, two, disenguage cruise.I am thinking you require switch.They are plastic and do wear out.
Cheap easy fix.
Bruce

I removed the kick panel covering the upper part of the brake arm. I see a white plastic assembly and a white plastic "plunger", which moves out as the brake pedal is depressed -- it is not stuck. I have taken photos. Can I email them to you?

[redacted]

1988 Ford Crown Victoria Heating / Cooling System Won't Start Happens always Always

The blower for the heater and ac does not work. It started out as an intermittent problem now it never works.
I have replaced the thermal limiter and the blower switch. The grounds are good [at least the ones I can find].
This car has the automatic climate control so I'm wondering if there is a thermostat or sensor. My Haynes manual [not worth the paper it is printed on compared to Chilton] does not show it.

Hi;
You have what they call a CELLO Valve. It is located where the heater hose comes in. The top one. Lots of time you loose vacuum to it. This is due to the controller. Good Luck Les.

When you say controller do you mean the control panel in the dash? Is it bad and causing the loss of vacuum or is it the valve at the heater hose?

Hi;
The controller is the one in the dash. Check thevalve and try running vacuum to it. If it works then most likely you got a leak. If not the valve itself is bad. The engine must get up to temp before you this. Good Luck Les.

1987 Ford Crown Victoria Ignition System   

when tempatures reach 70 degrees and above my car stalls and will not start back up for long priods of time this car never stalls when tempatures are cooler outside i have tried lots of things to remedy this such as new spark plugs, wire set , themostat and numerous other things the car dont ever appeare to be overheating what could be wrong

There are two sensors you might look at.
Air intake sensor, which measures ambient air temp and then adjusts air fuel mixture,
The second is the coolant temp sensor.
Although just an educated guess, I'd say the first sensor.
A scan of codes would be more accurate,but the sensor would be cheaper.

man i had the car code scanned like ten times and never drawn 1 code my uncle is my mechanic he ussually can figure this type of thing out but if u think the air temp sensor is the problem i will have to try it

The air intake sensor is the only one that has anything to do with outside temp.
The sensor is cheap also.

1986 Ford Crown Victoria Fuel System Stalling When starting When cold

I have a police interceptor crown vic. My problem is with the carb. It is a holley 2 bbl that a dealer mecanic told me was put on the vics to replace the motorcraft vent. venturi carb. Holley cant even pull the number off of that carb (like it never existed). I desperately need a good carb for this car. I have replaced the engine in past yr with a jasper engine and noticed a leak coming from the side gaskets of the carb by the auto overdrive and throttle entrance. My question is should I just get a carb from a parts store that has no clue if it will even come close to doing the job or see if holley may be able to do a complete rebuild or just get the original motorcraft vv carb? Also the main problem i have is it doesnt want to stay running when cold, car is fine after warmed up

Hi;
The VV carburetor was theworst that Ford ever made. Your best choice ( which is what I would do ) is to buy you an aftermarket edelbrock intake and carb. As far as I know they are readly available. Try www.edelbrock.com. Sounds you are trying to build a sweet machine. But like I said stay away from VV carb. I worked at a Ford dealership for 5 years, and that was the worst carb we hated. Also hope you don't live in California, but if you do then you will have to back to the VV. Good Luck Les.

thank you, thats kind of my initial thought. But I get 17 miles to the gallon with this carb, prob. because it is a 2 bbl. Are you saying change the intake to get a 4 barrel or for something else? I really like the carb for the economy but its time has come. thanks. Next question is reguarding the automatic overdrive, I will have to find a carb that is equipped for the ao Can I do that with ease or will I need to change up the ao. Also the carb is generically (lol) electronic. Should I stay with that or does it really matter.

Hi;
No you don't have to change the intake. Edelbrock makes a replacement that will bolt right on with minor modifications. Check out there web site at WWW.EDELBROCK.COM. Good luck Les.

1986 Ford Crown Victoria Ignition System Won't Start When starting Always

Nothing happens when key is turned. Faint hum for a few seconds from right side under or behind dash. Replaced solenoid, no change. Starts easily and runs fine when I jump the solenoid.

Start by double checking connections at battery, solenoid, grounds, etc.

Do you get the normal dash lights when you first turn the key?

All connections appear right, as far as I can tell. Dash lights read normally. I Can hear the feul pump activate at the gas tank, and the 3 relays at the front drivers side of the engine compartment click when the key is turned, as well as a little unit just behind the throttle body. Could it be a fuse?

A fuse is possible.

Have you tried starting the engine by shifting into neutral instead of park? This is an attempt to check the Park Neutral safety switch.

I have tried it in nuetral, same result. It starts fine in nuetral or park by jumping the solenoid, so I am thinking it's not the nuetral safety switch. But does jumping the solenoid bypass it? The fuses in the fusebox are all good. Are there fusible links?

Jumping the solenoid does effectively bypass the switch.
I'll check to see if I can find instructions you can follow for testing the starting system.

1986 Ford Crown Victoria Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

My headlights, tailights, marker lights, horn and electric seat controls, all went out. electrical systems seem to be working. I replaced fuses, the headlamp switch and the steering column-turn signal module. No help.

Hi,
There are several fusible links bolted to the starter solenoid on the fender. The one going to the black/orange wire is burnt out. Replace that link and all should be fine again.

"I replaced the fusible links. Originally, there were 3 separate wire links that fused into, one lead that connects to the solenoid;
(Two-black/orange and one-yellow). The after market links I bought are 3 separate wires, each having it's own connector to the solenoid.

Same symptoms, no exterior lights, no horn, no seat controls. The radio, power windows, heater still work."

You need to use a voltmeter and see if you are missing power or ground to the headlights- turn the headlights on and take readings. Which is missing?

The horn, seats and lights all go through the same fusible link. Check for power at fuse #4, 8, 17. If no power there, check for power at the harness side of the fusible link to make sure you have power to the black/orange wire. If that is ok, then you must have a breakage between the solenoid and the fusebox.

1985 Ford Crown Victoria Ignition System Tuning When shifting Always

Ignition Module failed on this 302CID (5.0L) V8 engine. The failed module was found to be an aftermarket replacement marked "Standard", with no other identifying marks. I've replaced the module with two similar Motorcraft units from similar vehicles with unsatisfactory results -- also replaced plugs and checked rotor, cap & wires. I followed, or tried to follow the correct timing sequence and yet the problem acts like a timing or weak spark issue. Engine fires instantly and appears to run perfectly under no load conditions. However, as soon as I put the transmission into Drive, that's when the trouble begins. Initially, one can hear a roaring sound from a unit mounted on the intake manifold between the throttle body and the firewall. When driving, the engine misfires badly under load, most noticeably on the wide gear step to overdrive -- this misfire diminishes gradually as speed increases and the need for lots of torgue is lessened -- you can almost feel the engine regaining proper firing one cylinder at a time as it smoothes out but the roaring sound never goes away completely. You can smell exhaust type fumes from the noisy intake manifold unit. Fuel economy sucks. Any ideas?

How did you check the plug wires? This problem could be caused by bad plug wires or a weak ignition coil.

Could you describe in more detail the part that makes the roaring noise? Does it have an electrical connector, metal pipe, vacuum hose, etc?

Firstly, the intake manifold unit:-
It's electrically controlled with connections at back of a tennis ball sized cannister almost at the firewall. This rounded cannister is attached to an oblong unit between the cannister and the manifold that appears to be measuring coolant temperature -- there's a small coolant line tapped off a heater hose that runs into this oblong unit and back into the water jacket part of the intake manifold. The entire assembly connects into the manifold immediately below the throttle body on the back side. There is no vacuum hose involvement as far as I can see.

Unfortunately I have not been able to obtain or access a shop manual for this beast but I suspect that this apparatus is part of the emissions control system. I have no idea what it is called. I suspect that, when incomplete combustion is detected, probably by the oxygen sensor, a valve opens up in the cannister to permit a massive injection of extra air below the throttle body and that this open valve is the source of the roaring sound -- sounds like a blown exhaust gasket.

You're obviously on my wavelength by suspecting a weak spark breaking down under load. The strange thing, however, is that everything was functioning perfectly prior to the sudden and complete failure of the Standard ignition module -- total loss of spark. I've tried going through the ignition one step at a time to try and eliminate/isolate the present weakness. I wish I knew what voltage I should be looking for on the primary circuit to the coil but, like I said, I have no access to any manual.

Initially I replaced the plugs due to the potential for a wider gap due to wear. In reality, the old plugs were good for further service if I had just re-gapped them but I figured I might just as well replace them with new, gapped to OEM specs, for a fresh start.

As far as checking wires, etc., (remember everything was working perfectly prior to the module failure) I have taken several approaches:-
I've substituted rotor, cap and wires (borrowed) from two other perfectly working 302 engines,
I've substituted the distributor and ignition module from one of those engines,
I've replaced each ignition wire, one cylinder at a time with a new one to see if I can isolate any particular cylinder(s) or wires(s) causing the problem (ie- looking for individual wire problems as opposed to random breakdown across all cylinders),
I've inspected the new plugs for signs of richness or uneven combustion between cylinders.

Thus far, nothing that I've done has produced even the slightest improvement. It's my suspicion that the replacement Motorcaft ignition modules put out a lower primary circuit voltage to the coil than the aftermarket Standard unit that failed or, putting it another way, the Standard unit is/was better than the Ford OEM unit by putting out a higher primary voltage -- prior to the sudden failure, this old wagon ran fabulously, giving me as much as 24 MPG on highway trips at high speed. But that does not explain, of course, why the rest of the ignition system is failing somewhere.

My next thoughts, unless you can come up with anything else, are as follows:-
1) To try replacing the ignition coil (borrowed)with one from either of the two engines known to be working properly and/or
2) To try closing the plug gaps below specs to see whether I can get a stronger spark from what appears to be a diminished spark input/coil output.

What do you think?
Mike.

Further update:
Just tried a substitute (borrowed) coil and main HT wire from coil to distributor. No change -- still breaking down under load and roaring through the manifold valve.
Mike.

Lets consider the other half- fuel. Have you checked fuel pressure? Observed injector spray?

If you have a donor car try swapping the map and throttle position sensors to see if there is any change. I assume this car is fuel injected?

Hmm, on the mystery unit. I wonder if it may be for the heater controls. Regardless try unplugging the electrical connector and see if the car runs differently. Also note if you lose functions to the heater.

The following link contains a generic repair manual for your car. Generic because it covers a 20 year span.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/10/29/3c/[redacted] 293c.jsp

If you want a better repair guide there is alldatadiy.com This site is not free.

1985 Ford Crown Victoria Engine Stalling When braking Always

I bought a Crown Vic from a friend, since than , I feel lke I am paying a monthly payment of $500 average on repairs, My car stall when I am waiting for the red light turn green , when turning in less than 10 miles a hour , when breaking, My mechanic could not find the problem and raise the idle on the car, now when I do reverse the whole car will shake and feel like is about to explote and when taking off the wheels will slip in the pavement and the noise of a racing track will disturbe other people.
Elia

Could you give a list of repairs that have already been attempted to repair this problem?

How high is the idle set now, is the engine idling to fast?

A year and half ago , the oxygen sensor was replaced,, I do not know how high it is but I will find that later today, The car stalls only when braking or turning slowly, waiting for the light to changed, the mechanic changed the entire brake unit to fix due to another problem, the coil wire is brand new and stop the stalling problem for a month but now the problem is back.

Hello,

I've re-opened this question at the customer's request.

Mark,
Site Admin.

I am sorry, I missed your question being re-opened.

The new coil wire fixed the problem completely, but only for a month? If the coil wire was the cause before you may want to have the secondary ignition system checked. Although, I really don't feel the problem is here, at least not at this point. I wonder if it may have been coincidence that the coil wire fixed the problem before.

To continue I would like to know which engine you have- the 5.0L 302 V8 (fuel injected) (VIN-F)or 5.8L 351 V8 (w-carburetor) (Vin-G).

1984 Ford Crown Victoria Fuel System   

I NEED TO FIND A FUEL GAUGE FOR MY GASS TANK.NO one SEEMS TO HAVE ONE.

Hi, On our home page you will see a title AUTO RECYCLERS and SUPPLIERS. Make your inquiry on these links and you will hear from the parts network if they have your part. The is no charge for your search request.

Write to All-Parts.com, Administrator, All-Parts.com and request a refund of the funds you posted on our FIX YOUR CAR link. You should not be charged money at this time.

You could also try a GOOGLE SEARCH for Ford Classic Car Parts and see what choices are there for you.

Roger