Ford E-350

2001 Ford E-350 Engine Stalling When driving No pattern

2001 ford van v10 shuts off while driiving 0-45mph and sometimes at stoplights somedays or months go by and it does not happen then it will shut off 3 or 4 times a day or shut off and on 10 to 15 times while driving and still drive

Hello, It will be tough to get you a definitive answer before Monday due to businesses and data base info for Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) are not handy.

If you'll allow me time to research this, I'll gladly try. If your need has a higher priority, please feel free to release the question so that others may try sooner.

Roger

I'm not finding TSBs for this complaint. Does the vehicle set Diagnostic Trouble Codes? Has fuel pressure been monitored? Fuel pressure might be dropping below minimum just long enough for a stall, and comes right back for restart. I driven vehicles and caught them doing this by connecting a fuel pressure gauge where I could see it while driving.

Still thinking,

Roger

Any news here? Have you had the chance to monitor fuel pressure while driving?

Roger

Hello, Please let me hear from you.

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, Please let me hear from you.

Thanks,

Roger"

Hello, please update the status of your question.

Thanks,

Roger

1999 Ford E-350 Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

i was moving my van in the driveway and the brake warning light would not go off. then the abs warning light came on. i checked the parking brake switch, the tail lites, also did a scan. no code, lites and switch are ok. now i can put pressure on the brake pedtal, start the engine, release the parking brake,and the brake warning light goes off. but as soon as i take foot off brake pedal, the brake warning light comes on, then the abs warning light.i drove the van and the brakes work fine. even tested them in hard braking. so was wondering if it is something simple like a relay or switch before i took it in to brake shop. they want $200 to check the problem, not fix it.
thanks
byron

Hello, My goodness, have you checked the fluid level in the master cylinder? It could be that simple....

Roger

yes. that was the first. the manual does a poor job of covering this area. did all the boo switch test.no wheel cylinders are leaking.

What engine please? Is this a hydro-boost brake system?

Roger

v10 vacuum booster behind the master cylinder.no vacuum leak and the pedal is still at the same place as before the lights came on. the pedal dosnt leak down under pressure.

byron

Can you tell if the ABS Pump Motor runs/works? When the ABS warning light is on are you still not getting any codes?

When you start the vehicle and start to move can you detect the self test function that should happen very early in the vehicles motion?

Roger

i havnt check the abs pump yet.when i first turn the key to the on position, the brake warning lite comes on, then i can hear the relay click under the dash at the control module, then the abs lite comes on. the engine it not running. if i hold my foot on the brake pedal and turn the key to the on position then none of the warning lites come on. ( this is all done with the parking brake released )as soon as i release my foot for the pedal, the brake lite comes on then click, the abs lite come on.i have already been driving it to work for the past 3 days, but know codes as of yesterday. will check in the morning before i start it.
byron

Please keep me posted and I will try to work through this with you.

Roger

ok the first thing i did was check for any code. there was none. as far as hearing the abs pump working, i couldnt hear anything. but the manual says it doesnt start working untill you need that type of braking.all i can hear is the relay clicking at the controll module. by the way i have a haynes manual, couldnt find a chiltons at the time i needed one.

Tomorrow I will be where I can access the Mitchell 1 Auto Repair Data Base. I expect to find better guidance there.

I must be missing something obvious and I want to get focused.

Will pumping the foot brake several times make the ABS Pump kick in?

Roger

i havnt tried pumping the brake. but the way it explains it in the manual is when the wheel sensor picks up brake locking up then the pump closes the valve to that wheel and moves it to another. in that case the van needs to be moving before the pump will work.i have to drive on san diego freeway this morning so will have a good chance to test the brakes.

My Snap On MT2500 scanner requires a seperate ABS software cartridge to troubleshoot ABS systems. Will your scanner read an ABS code without special software?

Roger

hey rodger, on the way to work this morning, the transmission went out. so this evening i had to unload all my tools,so i can take to friend of mine that has a tranny shop. i do finish carpentry work.
but i also need to see what is up with the warning lites. sould have the van back in 3 or 4 days.
here is my other email
[redacted]

Rats! What a terrible event for you to pay for with your net earnings.

I tried to access the Mitchell 1 data base today but was not able to do so. I will not quit trying. I should have another chance tomorrow between doctor appointments.

Thanks for your email as I may have to scan to email what I get from the data base.

Roger

I sent you some info from the Mitchell 1 data base for your review. If you don't see my email check your spam/junk mail.

Roger

1998 Ford E-350 Electrical / Lighting Systems Failing When troubleshooting Always

I HAVE A 1998 FORD E-350 MOTORHOME. ALL THE FUSES SEEM TO BE OK.. BUT THE RUNNING LIGHTS AND THE TAIL LIGHTS DO NOT WORK

I'd bet that the headlamp switch itself has gone south.It's a common issue with that type of vehicle.
C.

THE HEADLIGHT AND FRONT RUNNING LIGHTS ARE FINE...THE MOTORHOME LIGHTS AND TAIL LIGHTS , LICENSE PLATE LAMPS DO NOT WORK, FROM THE CAB BACK?

Ok...the running lights and tails are on the same circuit, so look into the rear lighting harness.You can find out where the connectors are in a wiring diagram which most dealers will allow you to copy.A connector there could be a problem.wise you'll have to grab a test light and mutimeter and trace from the sockets forward until you find where the current stops.Sorry I can't be more help from here...

1997 Ford E-350 Engine   

VEHICLE WAS RUNNING FINE,SHUT OFF FOR APPROX 4 HOURS CAME OUT AND ENGINE CRANKED OVER EXCESSIVE,FINALLY STARTED BUT RUNS REAL ROUGH,BACKFIRES,LITTLE OR NO RESPONSE TO THE THROTTLE,WHEN IT DOES FINALLY REV UP IT IS VERY ROUGH,SHAKES,NO CK ENG LITE ON,FUEL PRESSURE WAS TESTED AND IS AT SPEC,HAVE TRIED CRANK SENSOR,MAF SENSOR,NEW FUEL PUMP,FILTER,

vehicle has a 5.4 v-8 calif emissions,new spark plugs also,air intake ducts were checked and no holes.

Even though there is no check engine light, there still might be codes. You might want to get it scanned. If there excessive water in gas (common this time of year)It would run better when hot, but not when cold.
Crank sensor, maf sensor, etc should have left codes. Have a look at manifold air pressure sensor (map).It has a vac hose, and a plug with 3 wires.Located on the pass. side firewall of a pickup, not sure where Ford hides them on an Econoline.

1989 Ford E-350 Engine   

Engine starts cold. After driving 7 miles it starts missing and overheating. I shut engine off an waited 1.5 hours. engine would not restart. Had it towed and the next day it started again. I have taken this to 3 differant stations with bills from 300 to 800 usally fuel system, renewed, catalatic convertor replaced, distributor replaced. I am a fair mechanic myself and think the engine is worn out am I right.

Hello, What were the results of the compression test during all this testing? If a compression test was not done I recommend it be done to get an idea of how strong the engine is mechanically.

Roger

Hi Roger,

Hi Roger, I performed the compression check and the results are;#1 120psig #2 120psig #3 120psig #4 130psig #5 120psig #6 110psig no oil 115 with oil #7 110psig no oil 115 with oil #8 120psig. The spark plugs have carbon.

Rule for compression test I use is the lowest cylinder test result must be no lower than 85% of the highest cylinder test result.

What size engine in your truck? I was hoping for readings higher than what you ot but they may be all right...

Roger

351W

Chilton Auto Repair disagrees with my assessment using 85% as a base. They allow 75%.

The readings you got on your compression test are acceptable. However, adding the oil to a couple cylinders brought the reading up a bit indicating those cylinders may have piston rings advancing in wear and/or cylinder wall wear.

Some things that come to mind when spark plugs are carboned up:

Carb set too rich.
Timing too far retarded.
Improper spark plug heat range (too cold)
Poor quality fuel..octane too low.

I'm confident all of these areas have been addressed but to what extent?

Have you no workmanship warranty with those who took your money?

Was the carb overhauled and then set up? Does the engine send smoke out the tailpipe?
Does it burn oil? How often (# of miles driven) do you add one quart of oil between oil changes?

Roger

Muti port injected cleaned
Timing I’ll check
Spark plug Bocsh r6 488
Fuel 89 octane 2200’ altitude
Engine does not smoke but leaks (one project at a time.)
I am confident in my exhaust specialist he did a converter check and said it was border line because of the temp differential. I had him replace it and the muffler.
by the way light dusty carbon not thick.
automatic transmission. does this problem sound like a worn out motor.

This is beginning to sound like the engine has indeed worn out. I wanted to see compression up around 150 - 160.

You have done alot and it is not putting spunk into the power curve.

The data you shared says to me I have very little to offer at this point. Your original question asked if the motor was worn out...I now agree.

Roger

One last question since the engine has never been rebuilt I would buy parts that are .030 which are standard right?

I don't think you should make that decision until you see the condition of the cylinder walls. They may need honed or bored to clean up.

Consider using the micrometer to get a good base line of the engine's condition including crank and rod journals. Take your measurements with you when you shop for parts.

Have a machinist get involved as needed. See what a long block would cost you from a auto parts store and compare. Ask what you are required to replace if you buy their engine to validate the warranty.

Does this help?

Roger

Not really, I was just looking for base line for ordering parts. I allready know how to rebuild an engine. To be honest, I was looking for someone with more experience then me. no offence. But I had already decided that the engine was worn out before I used the service I wanted someone who had seen an engine wear out like this before (old Timer stuff been there seen that) as I has never considered it in my youth. I ussually rebuilt when engine noise was noticed not when an engine performance was low to the point wear losses in the form of heat became so high as the cooling system was unable to handel them. Thanks anyway. no reply necessary.