Ford Expedition

1999 Ford Expedition Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction Happens always 

my ford expedition while driving in the rain lost its drive. The speedometer was still working as if the car was moving but the wheels were not engaged. now it seems to be able to switch from 4 whell drive to 2 wheel drive but it will not come out of the low range, even though it comes out of 4 wheel drive. when driving it you will be in overdrive by the time the truck is going 20 mph. can you tell me if this is a mechanical or electrical problem? I have looked at everything I can think of to no prevail. please help shed some light on this.

thanks,
Ted faulkner.

Ted,
Sounds like you have a problem in the transfer case. The transfer case is where the power is split to all 4 wheels. You may have broken parts, or the electric shifter motor may not be working. You can replace the whole unit, or it can be opened and repaired.
Dale

Can the transfer case operate in low range only and be bad? Can the hi range be bad and not the low range? It swithces in and out of 4 wheel drive it just won't come out of the low range. It goes through all the gears even into overdrive.

let me know what you think?

Thanks,
Ted.

The transfer case is responsible for the 2WD and 4WD shift. It also has the high and low ranges inside it. The regular shifting you speak of is in the transmission, which transfers the power from the engine to the transfer case. If you cannot get it out of low range, the problem is in the transfer case, or in the motor that moves the shifter.
Dale

Ford has wirtten a technical service bulletin 01-14-01 recommending the replacement of the shift motor if it remains stuck in low after an uncommanded shift. (shifted by itself). The old style motors had a blue plate cover and were installed before 12/99. The new part YL1Z-7G360-AA has a grey plate cover.
Hope this helps,
Dale

This sound exactly like my problem. I have had it shift into 4 wheel drive on its own recently and the transfer case shift motor does have a blue cover. the only question I have is will anything need to be reprogrammed after the new shift motor is installed? it has 3 gems (generic electronic modules) in the 4x4 circuit and I dont know how they work, do they reset themselves or do they need to be reset with a computer?

Thank you

Ted.

I believe it will reset itself. If there are any additional procedures, it may be included with the part if you buy it from Ford.
Dale

well I replaced the transfer case switch motor and nothing is different. It will still not com out of the low range. the part that confuses me the most is it will shift from awd to 4 wheel drive but it stays in the low range. the 4x4 light will also blink if you drive it and try to shift from any range. i believe it must be the transfer case but with all the sensors and relays etc i wonder if they play into it. i am not sure if you read my first post but i was driving and lost all connection to the transfer case. the truck thought it was still moving and the speedometer was still going but the wheels were disengaged from the drive train. not very clear but if i stepped on the gas in was if the transmission was slipping but it wasn't because because the speedometer was still going. i am not looking forward to paying a dealership $100.00 hr to troubleshoot but it looks like i may have to. if it is the transfer case i will rebuild it my self but if it is a sensor i think i would let them fix it. dont know how it could be a sensor though because everything works yet it stays in low range. i have never seen anything like this in all my years working on cars, have you?

Ted.

Ted,
Inside the transmission case, there is a shifter lever. This is driven by the shift motor. This has 3 positions, low, neutral and high.

4WD is accomplished with an electic clutch which engages the front driveshaft all the time when the 4WD LO button is pushed. When the 4WD HI button is pushed, the clutch is engaged as needed when the sensors notice slippage between the front and rear wheels.

From your description, it sounds like the transfer case shifted out of high, stuck in neutral, then locked in low and has never shifted out again.

We are looking at a mechanical problem...try removing the shift motor and shifting the unit manually. If it will not shift, then you will need to open it! If it will shift, put it in high, reinstall the motor and see what happens.

If you want to check the motor operation, you can connect it outside the case and press the HI button to see if it turns.

Dale

1999 Ford Expedition Fuel System Malfunction  

emissions problems, carbon in carb, how to clean, what will keep it clean, what else needs to be replaced to get engine light off(egr switch??) thanks

Do you have the actual trouble code number? IE- P0401

This is important. If you don't have the trouble code no. Autozone or Advance (there are probably others too, call ahead) will check the codes free of charge.

Let me know.

NO I DON'T HAVE CODES BUT I WILL GET! THANKS

I HAVE NOW GOT CODES PO401, PO171, PO174, AND PO305
I HAVE REPLACED AIR FILTER, OIL AND OIL FILTER, TRIED TO CLEAN EGR VALVE, LIGHT WENT OUT BUT CAME BACK ON, WHAT CAN I DO?

Sorry for the delay.

First of all, did you clean the egr valves passageway in the intake?

Do you have any other symptoms besides a check engine light? Do you notice a misfire/stumble or a change in performance since the problem appeared?

I BELIVE THERE IS A MIS FIRE, ALSO I AM NOT SURE WHERE THE INTAKE IS AND WHETHER I CLEANED IT, THE EGR AND WHERE IT CONNECTS, SEEMED TO HAVE A LOT OF CARBON IN IT, I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM LAST YEAR, BUT PAID TO HAVE IT FIXED, WOULD LIKE TO DO MYSELF, THEY REPLACED PLUG WIRES AND PLUGS, OTHER THAN THAT I AM NOT SURE, I USED CARB CLEANER TO TRY AND CLEAN PARTS.

Okay, where the egr connects there is a passageway. This passageway can become plugged. A stiff piece of wire is ideal for cleaning the passageway (the idea is anything that you can use to scrape the junk out of the passageway). This may not be the problem, but we want to eliminate it first before replacing any parts.

I will need engine size to give you information on the misfire code (P0305).

When was the last tune-up and how many miles? The remaining codes are for a lean fuel mixture on both banks (or left and right sides) of engine. This can have a number of problems- the most likely causes are-

1. Low fuel pressure (IE- a partially plugged fuel filter) If the fuel filter is overdue to be changed this is a good time.

2. MAF (mass airflow sensor). This sensor detects how much air is coming into your engine. Your vehicles computer (which is actually named a PCM) uses the amount of air calculated by the MAF to adjust fuel mixture. If the MAF is under-reporting the amount of air entering the engine the computer assumes the engine needs less fuel. This in turn will cause the Oxygen sensors to correctly report there is to much air and not enough fuel (this sets the trouble codes). People make the mistake (some mechanics too) of assuming the Oxygen sensors are bad when this code sets. The sensors can and do go bad, but rarely simultaneously. Usually when they both (you have one on each bank) report the engine is lean they are correct.

Let me know.

ENGINE SIZE 4.6L V8, I WILL TRY THE STIFF WIRE, THE PASSAGEWAY IS IT THE SILVER TUBE THAT HOOKS TO THE BACK OF THE ERG AND DO I RISK CLOGGING IT, OR CAN I SUCK IT OUT WITH A SHOP VAC? THANKS FOR YOUR CONTINUED HELP, FUEL FILTER REPLACED LAST YEAR SAME FOR TUNE UP.

I will try to find a picture for you in the morning. The passageway should be where the egr bolts on. It comes from the tube, passes through the valve and then flows through the passageway. You could still have a sensor problem, but I'd like to rule this out first.

WILL DO!

More information on the MAF sensor for the 171 and 174 codes. Ford claims the sensor must be replaced if there is a problem with. s have claim to have succesfully cleaned the sensor. Simply spray the sensors filament with a spray can of electrical cleaner. Worth a try before replacement. Also check for any vacuum leaks for this code. A small broken/cracked vacuum hose is common on many fords.
Let me know if you found the egr passageway to be restricted.

BTW- If the passageway is okay the sensor that overwhelmingly causes the P0401 is called a DPFE sensor."

where are sensors located!?

It would probably be easiest if I sent you pictures. If you leave your email address I will send images of the sensors.

thanks, [redacted] , i appreciate your help!

Check your email.

OKAY I KNOW WHERE THE MAF IS THE OTHER I WILL LOOK FOR. IF I CLEAN THE MAF AND IT DOSEN'T SEEM TO HELP SHOULD I REPLACE BEFORE DOING ANYTHING WITH THE OTHER SENSOR, I HAVE A 180,000 MILES ON THE VEHICLE IF THAT APPLIES, WOULD LIKE TO GET RID OF BUT CAN'T, JUST LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK!

Clean the MAF sensor then disconnect the negative battery cable for about five minutes. Reconnect the battery cable and test drive. Note- This step is to erase trouble codes. This step can also be performed with a scanner. Some Autozones will do this for you. Some are not allowed to because it violates government regulations. In areas where they are restricted from doing so Autozone will loan you the scanner (for a fully refundable deposit) and you can do it yourself.

After the codes have been erased the check engine light will likely stay off for a little while. Within 40-60 miles the light will probably come back on. At this time you will need to recheck the troublecodes. Let me know what troublecodes you have then.

The misfire code (P0305) has not been addressed. It is possible this cylinder has a lean misfire as a result of the lean codes (P0171 & P0174). For this reason we will try to eliminate the lean codes first.

Don't use the battery disconnect method if you have a 'theft lock' radio, etc- unless you have the information to reset. I usually throw this line in just to be on the safe side.

BTW- Are you simply trying to eliminate the check engine light or are you do for an emmissions inspection?

i am do for an inspection, so i am trying to get it off so i can get it inspected!

We recently started doing emissions inspections in NY. It really creates a burden for motorists.



Note- As soon as the check engine light comes on you can have the codes read.

Let me know what codes return.

What state are you in? In NY if you fail the emissions inspection you are given a ten day sticker. If the engine light stays off for a couple of drive cycles (this basically means you start with a cold engine and drive up to highway speed and let it sit overnight again...) which typically happens after about 40-60 miles- your vehicle should be ready for the test. The drive cycles allow the computer to run monitors, if the monitors have not been completed it will fail the test.

I tried cleaning maf, didn't work should i get dpef sensor? truck runs good after hooking negative cable back up, but then starts missing or idling rough again!!
thanks david

If you still have the P0401- yes it is time to try a new sensor. A scanner is all but required to accurately condemn sensors, but in this case DPFE failure is so common- even it happens to be okay now it in all likelyhood will fail soon enough.

After you install the new sensor, clear the codes and test drive.

If the check engine light comes back on have the codes checked again and let me know.

Good luck

1998 Ford Expedition Engine Won't Start  Always

Engine cranks but won't start. Check iniertia fuel shut of, pushed the button. Still won't start. I'm thinking fuel pump, but a couple of bucks to ask a pro is worth it.

you are definately on the right track fuel is the first thing to check
fuel may not be reaching the fuel injectors check your fuel filter and a fuel line pressure test. this will tell you if it is the fuel pump or not
hope this helps
macconeck

Lacking any specific special tool for this type of operation, is there another way to check for fuel flow?

The safest and surest way I recommend using a fuel pressure tester and comparing to results to the chart for your model car
there is at least 3 tests involved in this
type of diagnostic

1997 Ford Expedition Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

i have a 97 for expedition the motor comes on and go off before the other side can be lifted up: (lifts one side of truck but other side only comes up a little bit not all the way up). do this problem have something to do with the relay or the pump it self.

If you are referring to the air shock supension then it is possible that you have one bad shock on that side.
It may not be holding air any longer.
Check for air leakage on the malfunctioning side you should hear the air leak after the pump goes off.
I hope this helps

1997 Ford Expedition Heating / Cooling System   

1997 Ford Expedition. Front and rear air equipped. Front air condition system question. Mode selector switch (ie floor, panel, a/c, max) works fine, fan speed selector switch works fine. hot/cold selector swith not working. Blows hot air all of the time. When in a/c mode, rear air blow very cold, front air blows hot. What should I look at?

Sounds like the switch has gone bad. I would replace it, if rear is working and the fronts not. They are pretty easy and inexpensive and fairly easy to replace yourself.
Heavychevy

Are you referring to the switch directly behind the a/c instrument cluster?

no refering to the panel with the fan, climate control, and vent selecter. The one in the middle is the climate if I remember correctly its just easier and cheaper to replace the whole panel.

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Just doing a follow up to check the progress of your expedition.
Heavychevy