Ford LTD

1987 Ford LTD Electrical / Lighting Systems   

My 1985 ltd has high/low beam off the blinker switch arm and there is also a hazard switch on the column. The hazard switch works on all lights and the blinkers on the passenger side work but the blinkers on the driver side just stay on constantly with the switch instead of blinking. Does anyone have a schematic of how this wiring works, there are only 5 wired going into the module? Thanks,

Hello, Are you confident that all light bulbs for the left turn signal are good? The 4way flasher is a heavy duty flasher and will flash the remaining lights on both sides even with a bulb burned out.

Roger

Yes, I am. As I said, the lights come on but don't flash. What I am looking for is the schematic of the wiring. Also, where is the hazard flasher, it doesn't seem to be in the fuse panel?

The hazard flasher is on the backside of the fuse box directly behind the turn signal flasher.

I found a wiring diagram. I'll have to take it and have it enlarged or it will not scan to email very well.

What is your email address or a fax number to where I can send the diagram?

Thanks,

Roger

Hi Rodger,
My email address is [redacted]
Thanks for your help.
Ron

Ron, After a long day away from home I will now be able to fire the wiring diagram right away.

Thanks for your patience,

Roger

HI Roger,

Got it. Amazingly even the color code of the wires match so I will be able to take it from here.
Thanks,

Ron

Please let me know how I may help you.

Or, If you are ready you may permit All Parts to pay me by closing the question and click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

Thanks!

Roger

1986 Ford LTD All Part Groups Stalling When starting No pattern

milage dropped from 22 mpg to around 12 mpg in a very short time. It needs the idle set high to stay running, and you can't restart if it hasn't been off for over 1/2 hour. Complete tune ups have been done, new fuel pump installed, timing checked out. Two garages have checked it and can find no reason for this. Any info would be appreciated.

Are you getting any gasoline mixing with the oil or black exhaust smoke?

only occasionally, it's not burning oil and we don't smell gas while it's running. could it be the computer that's on it? The shop ran a diagnostic on it and it didn't show anything.

Okay, start by checking the fuel pressure regulator to see if it is leaking fuel.

Where would that be?

Use the following link to access a repair guide for your car-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=beginRepairGuide

Let me know what you find and we'll go from there. Any questions?

1984 Ford LTD Engine   

I recently purchased a 1953 Ford F-100 project. It has a newly rebuilt 351 windsor engine that came from a 1984 Ford Ltd police car. The engine builder installed a 200 degree thermostat. The previous owner of the truck said that this engine is supposed to run hotter than older models. I've since put a few miles on the truck and the electric fan maintains the temperature at 200. I do not have the a/c system installed yet, but plan to soon. My thinking is the engine would better off with a lower degree thermostat, such as 180. Do you agree? (It is running dual exhaust with headers,Dynomax mufflers, tailpipes, and no catalitic converters.)

Leave the thermostat in until the spring.Some performance gains can be had with the hotter thermostat with all the emissions stuff intact, but the gains are very small.Having a hotter thermostat will give you better heat in winter and the engine will run cooler with a 165 or a 180 in summer.so you are correct.
Thermostats are cheap if you wish to experiment.

Thanks, for your response. This engine does not have any emission control stuff on it that I am aware. I was told that it is a Police intercepter engine. It is supposed to have heavier parts, etc. The radiator is new and has a oil cooler in the bottom for the auto trans. I am just concerned about breaking the engine in correctly since it had zero road miles when I purchased the truck. I've heard that running an engine too cool can cause problems as well as running it too hot! Any thoughts?

For breakin purposes, the thermostat (hot) one should be fine.By hot, they mean over 220 .PI engines usually had a few more HD parts and were assembled and balanced a bit better.
Break in, should involve both street and highway miles, about 500, and no high speed driving or towing.Using the transmission to slow down occasionally is good also (downshifting manually)First oil/filter change should happen very soon, and first oil should NOT be synthetic, although it is ok to use after.Stay away from cheap discount oil filters (orange Fram for example)One day I was bored and cut 30 used oil filters apart!If engine has not been run at all, run it at about 1500 rpm for the first 15-20 minutes, no idle.It keeps the oil press. up and helps break in the cam.

1977 Ford LTD Heating / Cooling System  When driving Always

no voltage to blower switch. Fusible links and fuse in fuse box ok. what am I forgetting?

Hi;
sounds like your control switch is out. Check the panel switch. Good luck Les.

I replaced the switch. There is no power to the switch. The fuse is good.

Hi;
Need to tell me full info. Somewhere whe are missing the point. Thanks Les.

ok. Blower did not work. The fuse for the heater in fuse block was blown. I replaced the fuse. The blower still did not work. I replaced the 4 pin switch. It still does not work. I unplugged the connector from the switch and checked the connector for voltage. There is none. The fuse is good. The fusible links at the solenoid are good. I do not know why there is no voltage at the connector that the switch hooks up to. The 4 pin switch I am talking about is a 4 position switch that controls the speed of the blower. The lever goes up and down. The other switch I believe is called the damper switch with levers traveling horizontally, left to right. I believe it is working. I simply do not understand why there is no voltage at the connector to the switch.
The problem started long time ago. The blower was intermittent. You could slide the "damper" lever back and forth, and the blower would go off and on. After playing with it for a while, the blower would finally stay on. Finally, it quit altogether. That is when I discovered the blown fuse. As I slide the lever on the damper switch, I can see sparks between the different positions. ie; heater, defrost, a/c, etc.

Hi;
Sounds like the control panel is got a short in it. Thanks Les

Sorry for delay. Had to work today. When you say "control panel", are you talking about the switch that controls the temperature and also switches between the defrost, heat, ac, etc.? Thanks, Glenn

Hi;
Yes. Sounds like something in it is shorting out. Thanks Les.