Ford Mustang Convertible

2007 Ford Mustang Convertible Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

I have been hearing and to a lesser extent been feeling a clunking noise in the front end. When I back the car out of the garage and then move forward I hear the clunk noise in both directions. I replaced the upper strut mounting plates and no help there. I replaced the torsion/sway bar end links that connect to the control arms, and again nothing. I have inspected the components very closely and nothing obvious is visable. The sway bar mounting busings were replaced about two years ago and still look good. I have had a wrench on all nuts and bolts that pertain to the front suspension and everything is tight, although I am about to have the control arm bushings and the coil spring bushings replaced I can't think of anything else that I might be missing.
The car is a 1988 Ford Mustang 5.0 GT Conv. 5Spd
Any help on this would be greatly appreciated!

Not a 2007, it's a 1988

Use a pry bar to check for tightness at the motor/trans mounts and ball joints.Does this reveal anything?

Mounts are new but I'll check!
Thanks

Bounce up and down on the front of the car, does this recreate the noise?

No, no up and down noise!

Is it on one side or in one particular area?

Check the control arm bushings with a pry bar also.

I'll check em out with the pry bar and let you know!

Just took it to a shop today 3/7/08 and checked everything on a rack. Ball joints still looked ok, no excessive movement. The Mech I talked to there said I sounded as though the sound was coming from higher up like at or near the strut plate mount area. He put the air gun on in and tried to tighten both sides but they were pretty solid. Is it possible that even though the mounting plates were replaced because of the noise that something else there may be the sorce of the clunk? A bushing, or shim or something?

2003 Ford Mustang Convertible Engine  When repairing 

Are there two magnets for the sensor at the back of the crankshaft pulley or just one?

Hello, I'll try to help! Which engine are we looking at here? My first expectation is there is one magnet, I'll verify this.

Are we learning something or fixing something? Just curious where this is going..

Roger

It's a 4 cylinder. A '93 model LX. The magnet at the back of the crankshaft pulley was dislodged while I was replacing the timing belt. I put the magnet back but the guide was a little bent. I tried reshaping the guide but I'm afraid the clearance has been comprimised. I put everything back together with TDC and all the pulleys lined up and it would not even try to turn over. I was afraid that there was another magnet that had been lost, but now I'm pretty sure that's not the case. If you can give me some advice that'd be great.

Can you get another crankshaft position sensor bracket? The gap can get critical but we are only trying to disrupt a magnetic field here with a spinning reluctor ring on the pulley going by the sensor.

Roger

Yes, I can get another crankshaft position bracket. Looks like that's what I'm left with. Thanks alot.

Please let me know how that works out and if you need further assistance.

Thanks,

Roger

2001 Ford Mustang Convertible Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

Park lights front,rear,license plate lights and dash light are not working.

have you checked fuses and head light switch

Hi,I thought that the healight switch was at fault so I have replaced it with a new one with no improvement today.
Yesterday I replaced the ground strap with a new heavier gauge one and checked cleaned all the ground points that I could find on the car as I was having many electrical components fail to work intermittently until I did this.
Now everything works properly except the lights noted below.

When the dash,license plate and all park lights went out on Friday night I heard a loud pop sound from the radio speakers.

I checked all of the fuses under the dash as well as under the hood and they all test fine.
I hope this will help you suggest what the problem could be.Chris

Hello, The Central Juction Fuse Box Fuse #19 (15amp) supplies power to the Park Lamp Relay. This relay is controlled by the car's GEM Module.

Look in the Owner's Manual for the Park Lamp Relay location. Try replacing this relay and see if that does the trick.

I'll look in the data base to see what I can find on the relay location as well.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

The Park Lamp Relay is in the relay box behind the left side of the dash, near the central juction box (dash fuse box).

Roger

What is new here please?

Thanks,

Roger

Hi Roger thanks for the promp reply,a family emergency(98yr old grandmother fell and broke her hip)so I have been dealing with that.
As I mentioned earlier I thought the ground stap had corrected some of the problems.....not the case. I was having problems with losing power to most of the electrical components where when the ignition switch is turned on all of the gauges turn all the way to the right then back again as though the battery had been disconnected. I was having intermittent problems with most of the electrical componants so I replaced the GEM with one from a wrecked car which seems to have corrected all problem with the exception of the park light circuit.
I purchased a replacement park lamp relay which did not help. When tested the wires going to the relay there was power to 3 wires but the 4th brown wire that links all of the park lights has no power.
Thanks Chris

I'm working on getting the exterior lamp wiring diagram. Back soon,

Roger

Have things settled down for you? Where would you have me send the wiring diagram?

I will need an email address or a fax number.

Roger

2000 Ford Mustang Convertible Engine  When idling Always

my idle is high, i repaced the idle air control but the idle is at 1500 rpm air conditioning on and 800 AC off the service engine light is also on . this seemed to first happen there was a sound of a vacum leak for a while on start up this went away now i have the service engine light on and idle problem .the service code is po411 secondary air , injection system, incorrect flow . Is there some vacum operated control that raise and lower the idle when the AC is turned on? thanks joe ps it has the 3.8 engine

Hello, I'm not a Ford expert but I'm a very good researcher and I can't help but notice no one is picking up on your question. Questions are not "assigned".

I still want to help. I have over 30 yrs experience as a mechanic on primarily GM products.

Have you had a dead battery or the battery disconnected prior to this high idle event? I'm wondering if your car's computer needs to relearn the idle speed for a/c on and a/c off?

I'll be seeing an excellent Ford drivability technician tomorrow and I'll ask for some help for you.

After all this time elapsed if you prefer a refund, write to All-Parts.com, Site Administrator, All-Parts.com and let him know how you stand.

Would you like my help?,

Roger

Are you there? Did you adjust the idle speed screw trying to control this problem?

Please advise,

Roger

no ,i asked about the idle and why my service eng light is on . also which idle screw are you talking about?

The Ford drivability tech I talked with said there is a screw on the throttle body that one might turn to try and remedy a problem such as you have described. That is why I asked if you had adjusted it and I'm glad to know you didn't. It is not advised. I know what you asked.

To completely clear the codes and reset the service eng light he advised the following:
1. Disconnect the car battery for ten minutes.
2. While the battery remains disconnected hold down the foot brake for one minute.
3. Reconnect the battery and drive the car normally and the computer will relearn idle speed and your driving habits.

Concerning the P0411 code it is suggested that perhaps the car was refueled while running or the gas cap was not locked back on completely tight and an emissions code set as a result. The above action will clear this code as well.

Thoughts?,

Roger

after i turned on the air conditioning the service engine light came back on.

The P0411 sets when the O2 monitor doesn't detect lean condition caused by secondary airlfow (this is a functional test the system performs).

For the high idle check for the most common causes first. A vacuum leak at the throttle body, intake gasket vac leak, etc.
It may be possible that air from a vacuum leak is confusing the functional test for secondary air..

Not sure where you had the codes checked, but autozone and advance auto are popular chain stores that perform this service free.

the check engine light is still on and i have done everything you said to do. what eles can i do?

You need to have the air pump and it's plumbing checked to see if the pump is functioning properly.

If you live in an area where it is not forbidden by law, some people eliminate the air pump. You would need to find a technician with the software to reprogram the computer (PCM).

2000 Ford Mustang Convertible Drive Train / Driveline Chugging When driving When warm 

I believe it is the drive train that is responsible for the "chugging" effect. Here's what happens: After driving the car for a few minutes, the vehicle begins to "chug" or shake but only at speeds below 45mph. At 60mph it drives fine. I can minimize chugging by letting off of the accelerator, which drops it down a gear (I have an automatic transmission). Could it be my transmission?

DOes it chug when you are trying to maintain a steady speed or only when accelerating?

It could be a transmission concern, this does not necessarily mean the transmission needs replacement.

Does the check engine light come at any time while the engine is running?

It chugs when accelerating

The first thing you should do is visit Autozone or Advance auto and have them check for stored AND pending troublecodes, a free service they provide. This will let us know if the PCM (computer) is noticing anything unusual.

Sorry, accidentally released.

2000 Ford Mustang Convertible Electrical / Lighting Systems   

The battery in the car will go completely dead in three days if the car isn't started daily. There are no aftermarket add-ons that I know of. The only problem that I can find is the passenger electric window switch - it doesn't work. A new battery was just recently put in. Any thoughts?

Hello, There must be something that remains on when the car is shut down that is draining the battery.

It can be something you do not see like a glove box light or a trunk light for example.

Do you have a digital multi-meter with 10 amp fused capability?

An amp meter connected in series with the negative battery cable connection terminal and the negative battery post will tell us how many amps are draining the battery.

Anything above 35 milliamps is excessive.

How would you like to begin?

Roger

2000 Ford Mustang Convertible All Part Groups   

electrnic speedometer went out bought one from a salvageyard.now car wont start with new speedo do i need to change the computer behind the right kick panel?

did you already submit this question once already today?

yes but I was not given a login password and the charge was never applied so I resubmitted it.

Ok you can fix that with the administrator so that you do not have two questions floating around
The answer was sent to you on the other question

sent email to admin. they said I would have to be answered on the 2nd question in order to get the tech. paid because my first is in yahoo heaven and will probably never be seen again.

ok

any idea who answered the first question? or what the answer was so I can pay?

Bruce Kit:
Sep 14/07 8:17AM: "Assuming that all the connections are good and that you have not inadvertantly disconnected the ignition switch down on the column,(did you lower the column a bit to remove instrument cluster?) then after the fuses and grounds are checked replacing the CPU (computer) would be a last resort. Also ensure the battery is fully charged."

my cluster is full electronic no speedo cable did drop column a bit . also when I plug up the old cluster the car starts fine . with the new(salvage yard ) cluster the theft light blinks faster than normal.

it is possible that the cluster you have from the junk yard has different electronic componets and it may be a different year
look at the part numbers of all the compnets and make sure they match up ofr if need be change over some of you old parts that dont match by number
I hope this helps

2000 Ford Mustang Convertible Drive Train / Driveline   

My 2000 ford mustang is not shifting into overdrive. The transmission seems to disengage when trying to shift from 2nd to overdrive. I switched the overdrive to off and it stays in second but what needs to be done

The first thing you need to do is have the trouble codes checked. Autozone or Advance will check the trouble codes free of charge. Note- Do not disconnect the battery before the codes are checked or they'll be erased.

Let me know which alphanumeric trouble codes they find. The actual code is important versus the clerks interpretation of the code which can be misleading to flat out wrong.

1999 Ford Mustang Convertible Electrical / Lighting Systems Dimming When driving Always

the passanger side headlight is brighter than the driver side. Why? what can i do to eliminate that because i want both headlights to be be equally lit. i talked to my mechanic and he said the best thing to do would be to buy a new headlight wiring harness. Will that work and how much would that cost. what else can i do to fix the problem? thanks.

The most common cause of one headlight being brighter than the other is a poor ground wire connection on the side of the dimmest light. This would call for only improving the groung connection, not replacing the harness.

Assuming that the headlights are the same type, color and same manufacturer, it is good business to swap the headlight bulbs positions. Did the problem move to the other side? Yes? Bad bulb. No? Bad ground.

There should be a ground wire for each side of the car's front lamps. Usually a black wire bolted to the fender structure or radiator support near the front lamps. Look for a broken wire or a loose bolt. Repair as needed.

Need more specifics? I can get a diagrahm and expand my reply if needed.

Roger

that was very good information, however, my mechanic did check for a bad ground connection "only" on the batterry, not by the fender or radiator. he did clean and reconnect the black wire to the batterry. Can you send me a diagram of were i can find the ground for both headlights?

Before i installed the new McCulloch 8000k HID upgrade kit, i still had the same problem. the passenger side headlight was dimmer than the driver side. Now, that i have the HID kit, the driver side headlight is very bright compared to the passenger side; you can't even tell that i have a passanger side headlight. its really annoying.

thanks

Oops! i mixed up the headlights in the last reply. the Passenger side headlight is brighter than the driver's side, not the other way around. Sorry.

Do you have a FAX number I may send a schematic to? Will a cover sheet be needed?

Roger

hi,

i do have a fax machine, but you're going to have to call me to notify before you send the fax so i can hook up the fax. However, i did find the ground for both headlights. After i cleaned the screws and ground connections, i reconnected them and still, i had the same problem. What can i do next? i found an inexpensive upgrade headlight wiring harness kit online. Will that completely fix the problem?

my cell number to notify me: [redacted]

And my fax number after you notify me: [redacted]

thanks!

First lets have you check:

Is Fuse #10 (10 amp) in the central junction box good? Through this fuse power goes to the left headlight connector on the WHT/LT GRN wire.

Have you tested the voltage arriving at the left headlight connector on the WHT/LT GRN wire?

The ground connection for the left headlight is spliced (S103) into the wiring harness near the breakout to the left front park/turn lamp. You would need to unwrap the wiring until you found it starting from the screw you found that bolts down the black ground wire.

Roger

Well we checked everything possible and we FOUND the problem. THe Problem happened to be the Aftermarket Headlights. I bought some headlights housings of the internet and both the passenger and driver side housings were disaligned. the passenger side was too high and the driver's side too low!!! after about 10 minutes with a screwdriver and re-aligning the headlights, i was able to rid of the problem. NO MORE BRIGHT HEADLIGHT!!!! Thanks ALOT for your help.... Abraham

Will you accept my answer? I had no clue that headlight aiming was the problem. Everything I offered was for a light intensity deficiency, not headlight aim.

Your mechanic must have missed this also. That is weird. He saw the car...

You're welcome,

Roger

1999 Ford Mustang Convertible Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When troubleshooting No pattern

my car was involved in the flood in oakdale pa on fri 9/17. It was totally under water for approxitmally(??) 10 hrs. no insurance to cover any damage. lights are working, horn, 3 of the windows radio lights come on but no sound, we are changing the shut off switch in the trunk for the fuel. car turns over but doesn't get no gas to keep running. we also changed the oil. any suggestion would be greatly appreciated!!! dealer won't give me any help told me the car was useless!!!! It only has 30,000 miles and in excellent body shape.

This will be a very long road for you and a money pit, too. From the moment the key was turned "on" without having first removed every electrical device from computer, relays, switches, motors, etc. for water ingress removal, a short circuit can occur in any printed circuit that will have a domino effect failing systems in whole or in part.

Once your car has been identified as a "flood car" all warranties go away.

To do what I would hope to be helpful I would pull every component out and blow it dry it with compressed air. You cannot overdo this daunting task. Blowing water from every connector, box, motor, actuator, fuse panel...I probably can't think of all you can see!

I'm sure you get the idea. No dealer does restoration repairs of this magnatude.

You'll find after you drop the fuel tank for cleaning, change oil & filter in every fluid system (engine, trans., power steering, differential and so on that electrical failures will haunt you long after you can tolerate the frustration.

I'm a realist and don't like sending a message of doom. I cannot expect you to "blank-check" this task and like it one bit. One just can't build/rebuild a car under these circumstances and save money.

Thoughts?,

Roger

Have you had the chance to read my response to your question? What are your thoughts?

Roger

Will you please update the status of this question?

Thanks,

Roger

1999 Ford Mustang Convertible Drive Train / Driveline   

Hi! My Mustang Convertable has 140k miles. In the last two years I've been in a "fender bender" (just over 5mph), run over some road debris and had a tree fall on the trunk. Recently, the transmission started slipping. After a rebuild recommendation from a tranny shop (do they ever give another?) a friend replaced the fluid and some gaskets. The tranny worked fine but there was a horrible vibration starting at 35mph. A front end shop replaced the rear end and during the process called to say the the u-joint yoke was bent and needed replacing. The car still has a slight vibration at about 45 to 55 which I can live with, but I have a couple of questions:
1. The front end shop said that this year and model had problems with the rear end. Is this true?
2. Is it likely that the vibration problem at 35mp was the u-joint all along and had nothing to do with the rear end?
3. Could any of the minor mishaps have contributed to these problems?
4. Would a wheel alignment help with the remaining vibration (I've had the tires balanced and rotated) or should I just live with it since the car has so many mile?
5. Was this inquiry too long?
Thank you thank you thank you in advance!

That is the first time I heard of a rear problem!The vibration problem could be caused by weak shocks giving the tires a 'cupped' surface.
Always getting a 2nd opinion, helps!
The trans shops always recommending a rebuild is quite true! I have even had them tell me a trans was bad, even though it had only 2000 miles on it from the factory!
So have the shocks and struts checked, and get a 2nd opinion!

1998 Ford Mustang Convertible Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

When going straight down road there is a 1-2 in play in the steering wheel. It drives me nuts. Have changed the rack and pinion, but no better. Any suggestions?

Hello,

Did you check the inner and outer tie rod ends? Turn the wheel all the way to one side and have an assistant wiggle the steering wheel while you watch for play ath the tie rods.

Also, if the play is only felt going down the road check the ball joints.

Regardless this is very dangerous and the car should not be driven until the problem is corrected.

Give me an update.

1997 Ford Mustang Convertible Heating / Cooling System Leaking When stopped When warm 

Heater core replacement install instuctions please

Hello,

Highlight, Edit, Copy, and Paste the following link into your Address Bar. It contains instructions for heater core replacement with pictures (also contains a repair guide for your car, equivalent of a haynes or chiltons repair manual).

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/1d/d7/ec/[redacted] d801dd7ec.jsp

What about the air conditioning lines? Do they have to be disconnected as well?

Are they in the way on your car?

Which engine do you have?

I have the Converitble 4.6 GT. The A/C lines don't appear to be in the way, Don't they attatch to the air box that contains the heater core? I can't tell by looking at the air box from inside or out. If the box separates when it is removed, that would probably keep me from having to have the A/C evacuated and then recharged after the heater core change. Sorry this simple question goes on, I prefer to have all the info before I tackle this project.

1996 Ford Mustang Convertible Engine Vibration When idling Always

Had been running fine. After sitting undriven for about 36 hours I started it up and notice a pronounced shaking as well as "check engine" light flashing. The "check engine" light has always been sometimes on and sometimes off, but this is a flashing. The shaking feels like the engine is not balanced. This was not occuring before. Oil was a bit low so I added a quart and shaking did not diminish.
Thank you.

Lets start with some easy stuff. When was the last time you did a full tune up? (Fuel filter, air filter, plugs, wires, etc). I recommend at least a clean and regap the plugs .. see what happens.. let me know. AL

1996 Ford Mustang Convertible Fuel System Won't Start  

On my 96 Mustang convertible, I'm having a problem with it starting. I thought it was the fuel pump, but after some test, i know that is not the case. But i still think the engine isn't getting gas because i can start it with some spray liquid starter or when i add gas directly to the engine. After speaking with some people they think i have a clog in my line or i need to replace my fuel filter. How can i check for the clog in my line??? And where is the fuel filter located and how do i replace it??? Thank you in advance. . .

Hi,
Obviously you know some things about your car that you have not told me, so I am going to give some advice from the perspective of what I know.

#1. Check for fuel pressure on the fuel rail on the engine. It has a cap and valve like your tires have. Take off the cap, depress the valve and you should get a strong spurt of fuel. If you do, your fuel line system is fine...you will need to check your injectors and computer system.

#2. Crank the engine and check for fuel pressure again. If no pressure, crank the engine and listen for the fuel pump to run. (Remove the fuel fill cap, turn the key to the on position, and the pump should make a humming noise for about 3-5 seconds.) If no humming, then there is a bad fuse, relay, fuel pump, or wiring problem.

#3. If your pump hums, but there is no pressure at the fuel rail, remove your fuel filter under the car, near the fuel tank. Again, turn the key on and watch for lots of fuel shooting out the hose. If no fuel, you will need to remove your pump and replace the pump, strainer or fuel line.

#4 If lots of fuel, install a new filter and check for pressure again. If no pressure, check for kinked lines between the pump and the fuel rail. If you have pressure the car should now run, or go back to computer and sensor issues.

Best wishes on getting your car back on the road at a bargain price!

1996 Ford Mustang Convertible Engine   

when I brought the car it had white milkly like substance in the radiator, my engine light was on and it when off. the needle move to the almost to the red ,then it go back to normal. my radiator fluid is disappear and engine light can back on the car start shaking and white smoke coming for the exhaust pipe and anti-freeze.

definitely a blown headgasket,and or a warped or cracked head.

how much will it cost to get it fix .I had the car four month could already had a warped or cracked head.

yes, from what you explained it could have had. As for cost, not sure which engine you have am assuming the 3.8l V6 cylinder heads are anywhere from around 150-350 plus core charges,head Gasket sets 100-150 head bolts and other required parts, plus labor, Which can really depend on your area and the difficulty of the job. If you arent doing the work yourself, shop around for quotes from reliable mechanic shops.

if the head are crack or wraped what can I do about that and is that expense. will I need another engine. I have 3.8 v6

the head can be replaced with a remanufactured head, I included rough estimates of cost in earlier answer. Have the car thouroughly tested, compression check, oil pressure, coolant system , If many problems are found yes you might want to consider buying another engine. about 1[redacted] without labor.

1995 Ford Mustang Convertible Fuel System  Happens always 

I recently purchased a 95 Mustang Conv. 5.0 automatic. The problem is I'm only getting between 200 & 220 miles per tank. I hooked it up to a Snap on computer w/ lab scope. Checked okay. I took to Ford Dealership & had them hook it up. They suggested replacing computer. I have replaced computer, timing chain, fuel pressure regulator, cleaned throttle body & injectors, replaced fuel pressure regulator. Still using alot of fuel. Do you have any idea what it could be. Also o2 sensor shows to be Okay. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

Check for a defective lockup converter, slipping trans

1995 Ford Mustang Convertible Engine   

I have an engine and transmission from a 1987 E150 (350 and AOD) that I would like to put into a 1995 mustang that needs a replacement engine. Are there a lot of modifications necessary? Would I need to use the 1987 transmission? Thanks

Hello, Some of the early thoughts in planning such a change require me to get serious about the computers of these different components and the wiring harness requirements.

A 1995 transmission is likely computer controlled, the 1987?

A 1995 engine is likely fuel injected, the 1987..carbureator?

What about the emmission control sensor roster for both of these possibilities in mixed model year configuration? Do they have the same number of wires in each respective connector for each of the various sensors?

The toughest issues are the electronic ones. Mechanical configurations and mounting of components are a matter of custom design to fit. I've seen a Cadillac Northstar 400hp powertrain in a Pontiac Fiero!

Someone will have to sit down with schematics and plan this out. It may well be do-able, it may exceed your financial intentions to complete the project.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

Are you there?

Roger

Hi;
You did not state what size engine and what kind transmission in the mustang? The other odd thing that I see is that you stated a 350 engine. Ford did not put such an engine out in 1987. The van would of either had a 4.9L or 5.0L.That is considering that it is an E150. More Info would be helpful. Thanks Les

1995 Ford Mustang Convertible Engine  Happens always Always

My 95 mustang 3.8 was replaced with a used motor. now all the time it will barely even move once the rpms get up to 2500 the car will go but with a severe power loss. it has 65 k on the motor, compression is 160 in every cyl, an off road dual exhaust with flowmasters are installed, every sensor has been replaced along with the fuel injectors and it has a new computer. also i noticed the headers get cherry red and it back fires. even in nuetral the engines rrevs very slowly. the only thing i haven't checked is the timing but it starts up ok, 3 mechanics have not been able to help me, could the motor just jumped time by a tooth or 2? everything is new coil pack , cam sensor, there is no distibutor

Hello, What year is the replacement engine? Is it Federal, or California emissions system? Same question for the original engine? This question applies to both the original and the current computer, also.

Since the computer controls spark timing its good to get assurance of parts compatability. Are any codes (DTCs) set?

What is your fuel pressure? Is the fuel filter restricted? Are the fuel lines free from kinks? Has exhaust back pressure been evaluated? Does this engine use the same type EGR Valve (positive vs. negative pressure) as the original engine?

Trying to think with you,

Roger

both engines are 1995 with federal emissions,the original computer was replaced by ford for my exact car.fuel pressure is 34 psi, fuel filter was replaced
feul lines are ok back pressure is fine on the new exhaust and the egr is the same. there appears to be no slop in the timing chain but the car i got the motr from was in a pretty good accident i'm thinking it jumped a tooth or 2. what else could make my car backfire and headers become cherry red?

I'm looking into this further for you. Do you have after market headers installed? What RPM do the headers glow red? (Usually cause by unburned rich fuel mix) Backfire may be caused by a vacuum leak, or timing as you suspect.

With no known slack in the timing chain I don't think it has jumped on the timing gears. Only visual inspection could verify mechanical timing. Your compression is so good I'm lookng elsewhere for an answer.

Back soon. Thank you for such careful attention to answering my questions...most clients are not so dedicated.

Respectfully,

Roger

No I have kept the stock short headers on, the glowing red is after sustained rpms of 2000 or better, the vaccuum line have been check there was a few that were leaking but they were replaced. tahnx for your persisstance in helping , the car has been at 3 garages including the for dealer and I have been a back yard mechanic for a good many years so i know quite a bit about it. as of yet noone has checked the timing chain itself.so i will be doing that.

I'm wondering...have you monitored the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor operation with a scanner (not a code reader) to see how it is performing? Have you inspected the MAF inlet screen for obstruction? Are the air duct hose clamps for air intake to the throttle body in place and tight?

All air intake must pass through the MAF or fuel will be too rich. Any holes in the duct or loose clamps will allow "unmetered air" to enter the intake. Unmetered air causes O2 Sensors to report lean fuel/air ratio to the PCM and the PCM will call for more fuel trying to get things in balance.

Did Ford make sure your computer's EPROM programming is the latest update? (This is called "Flashing the Prom" when installing a newer update from Ford.)

Did you find the mechanical timing to be correct?

Still with you,

Roger

the timing was correct with the timing chain and gears, I found the problem while putting it back together, the hormonic balancer key was about 1" wide! someone either replaced the balancer just to get it running or put a wrong one on.I took one from one of my old mustang motors and it started right up and has great power!!! It must have thrown the crank sensor way off!! thanks for helping and I appreciate all of your info!! take care!!

How excellent for you to share with me what you found. Great job!

Thanks alot,

Roger

Hi, would you like to close this question?

Please advise,

Roger

Please, update the status of your question. I want to help.

Thanks,

Roger

1994 Ford Mustang Convertible Electrical / Lighting Systems  Happens always 

WHEN LOWER THE CONVERTIBLE TOP THE HAND BRAKER INDICATOR LIGHT WILL NOT COME ON IN DASH TO LOWER TOP

Can you remove the trim and expose the hand brake handle assembly? You should see a switch at the base of the hand brake that is actuated when you move the handle. That will be the switch that needs adjusted or replaced. If you have had fluid (pop, tea, coffee, etc.) spill into this area the switch may be sticking. Sometimes cleaning and aligning the switch will be all that is needed to restore reliable operation.

A new switch may be an affordable way to give you the best confidence in your repair efforts. The switch is likely a dealer item.

Roger

the hand brake must be set before the top can be lower,the hand brake itself work but indicator
light in the dash sometime will not come on so the top will not go down

Hello, What are you saying here? Are you supposed to set the Parking Brake before the top will move?

Please advise,

Roger

Hello, Please let me hear from you.

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, Please let me hear from you.

Thanks,

Roger"

Hello, please update the status of your question.

Thanks,

Roger

This question has remained open for over 50 days. Are you ready to close it? Still need/want help?

Thanks,

Roger

1994 Ford Mustang Convertible Fuel System Smelling Happens always Always

Car misses all the time engine is running and strong gasoline order and white smoke coming from exhaust.

Hello, White smoke out the exhaust, rough running engine, and strong fuel odor are indications of a head gasket leak.

A head gasket seals coolant from being drawn into the cylinder during the engine's intake intake stroke. The cooling system is also under pressure and factors to assist coolant ingress to a cylinder if the gasket cannot maintain a seal.

I recommend you have a compression test done to identify the effected cylinders. Decide by the results and number of miles on the engine how far to go with repairs.

The minimum would be a head gasket replacement on the effected bank of the engine block. The long route would be a complete valve job if the car is a keeper.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

Any progress here?

Thanks,

Roger

Please, update the status of your question. I want to help.

Thanks,

Roger

1994 Ford Mustang Convertible Ignition System Won't Start When starting Always

my sons key just turns in circles when trying to start his mustang, I want to change the ignition key but i,m not sure how. Any help

To replace the ignition lock cylinder you'll need to remove the steering wheel and unfasten the turn signal switch to pull it up and reveal the lock screw that retains the ignition lock.

Is this an air bag car? Are you prepared to disarm the system? Does the ignition key unlock the car doors also? If you replace the ignition lock cylinder and don't have it recoded you'll have an extra key to deal with from now on.

If adding a new key to the mix is not a problem we'll press on. If it is undesireable we'll need the help of a lock smith.

Roger

unfortunatly that incorrect. I got tired of waiting and figured it out on my own, there is a pin on the under side of the steering wheel that allows the barrel to be pulled with the key in. although the key was broke that is apparently not the only problem as the car now only "dings" with the key installed. when turned on, the volt meter goes to zero and nothing happens. we have checked the battery and it is fine I believe the problem might be the ECU ( fuses maybe?). when checked from positive post to the car body it shows 13.4V as well as from pos. to neg. post. Anythoughts?

You got tired of waiting on what sir? This thread shows I waited four days for your first reply.

The ignition lock cylinder doesn't seem to actuate the ignition electrical switch properly. Does the rotation feel right but the results are not correct?

I just did a T-Bird that I found the electrical ignition switch had literally seperated from its metal case enough that the switch contacts were gapped open so that no circuit could complete.

Have you inspected you ignition electrical switch? Is battery voltage present as an input but cannot be output when the lock cylinder is rotated?

Do you need wiring color codes for ignition leads?

I'm not ready to fault the computer.

Roger

yes. rotation seem correct now. when my son told me of his problem the key went all the way around, so I obviously wanted to replace it. While i was under the column I also replaced the ignition switch, it was fairly cheap. the auto seems to have no power at all yet all the readings i've taken so far show voltage where I thought it should be. I'm stumped and so is my brother in law who is a ford engine engineer.

Do you have wiring schematics with color codes for the ignition wires?

I'll email or fax one to you if you'll tell me where to?

Roger

Have you checked the engine compartment fuse box IGN SW fuses? There are three of them each rated at 40 amps. They supply the power via Yellow wires to the ignition switch and the starter relay. The starter relay is also in this fuse box.

Roger

are theses fuses in the ECU box? I checked all those and they seem to be fine. there are two relays that have not been tested

The fuses I'm referring to are in the power distribution box under the hood on the left fender apron forward of the shock tower. These are the fuses that take the place of fusible links.

How many yellow wires show to be supplying power at the ignition switch connector? There should be three.

Do you want me to email or fax wiring diagrams? Where to?

Roger

1994 Ford Mustang Convertible Engine Malfunction Happens always Always

My ford 94's check engine lights is always on. I know it's just a sensor which malfuntions but I would like to turn off the light. Which fuse should I remove and where is it?

There is not a fuse you can remove to turn off the check engine light and have the car continue to run. The only options are to put a piece of tape over light or remove the bulb, as you probably expect I don't recommend either of these.

You can reset the computer which will turn off the light, until the problem returns. Simply disconnect the negative battery cable for about a minute. The light will stay off until the problem returns.

I recommend finding out which trouble codes are stored in the computer as it may not be an expensive repair. Or it may increase fuel economy enough to make the repair well worth while. For instructions on retrieving codes you visit the following site for a free repair manual that'll contain instructions. Some chain parts stores check trouble codes free of charge, call ahead to see if any in your area offer this service for a 94 Ford.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

1993 Ford Mustang Convertible Engine   

Trying to remove bolt on front of crankshaft. Have crankshaft locked so it will not turn. Even with a breaker bar and cheater I cannot get the bolt loose. Any ideas? Please and thanks!

Soak the bolt with PB Blaster.

An air impact wrench is the preferred tool. You will need a powerful 1/2 inch drive impact. Can you borrow one? Keep in mind a $40 dollar one probably won't cut it. Try to get an Ingersol Rand, Snap-on, Bluepoint, Craftsman, etc with at least 300-400 ft lbs of reverse torque. Only use an impact socket with an impact wrench, normal sockets are glass hard and can shatter...

I wouldn't recommend other bolt loosening procedures such as heating the bolt or rapping the bolt with a hammer prior to removing.
Another method I recommend against-
Some people block the breaker bar off (ie against the frame) and use the starter to break the bolt loose. This method can be dangerous (especially if misjudgement is made determining wich way the engine rotates). This method can damage the starter/ teeth/ etc.

Sorry the problem is solved. I extended the cheater and rapped the base of the cheater with a hammer. It finally came loose. I appreciate the tip to use PB Blaster but I had already done so. This bolt was in excess of torque specifications by many hundreds of pounds. The torque spec is 115lbs and I could not measure the pounds on the bolt because my torque wrench stops at 140lbs. I was beginning to think the bolt was left handed, which I have never seen before. Oh well, the problem is solved, but I appreciate the reply. Keep the money, I appreciate the tip.

Good job, that is the same idea as an impact wrench... the hammering action.

Is your car up and running?

1993 Ford Mustang Convertible All Part Groups   

I am do some homework for Warren Tech on a 93 ford mustang lx convertable, and i need to know why there are 8 sparkplug wires and only 4 cylenders and why that is?

This is an attempt to reduce emissions/smooth idle/increase performance by having two plugs fire per cylinder. These are an oddball that I've only seen on selected Ford and Nissan products.

1993 Ford Mustang Convertible Windows / Glass   

How do you adjust power windows all four not lined up also adjust top

my back side windows will just come out if you pick them up

You might want to leave the top adjustment to a body shop, as it is quite involved.
Window adjustment:
Remove rear seat, 1/4 panel interior panels and door panels.At the bottom of each window is a adjusting bolt with a slotted hole. Adjust as required to align.Test window operation and door operation several times before replacing panels.If PW, remove switch from panel for testing. A fair amount of trial and error and patience required here.
A good shop manual (Haynes) has useful diagrams.

this is not a good answer. I have power windows and also have a chilton repair manual that is not very good

I would not use a Chiltons if one was given to me. Haynes much better.I could give you a detailed 3 page description on how to adjust and send lots of diagrams if you like, but for $5? I'll pass.

This is total crazy. I just paid $9.00 for you to answer with adjustment screws and now you want $5.00 more dollars. No thanks I will try someone new

Nice try, I did not ask for any more $$ Just told you where the adjustment was.Sorry you did not like the answer.If you are not capable of following simple instructions, can I suggest taking it to a bodyshop.Did you actually get the door panels off?

what was the 3 page description all about then it says $5. why are you so rude? yes I can remove the door panels. How come I ask for a new tech and keep getting you.

You are a little confused. The owner of the web site gets, I believe 1/2 of the $9. The tech also gets 1/2. Hense the $5 comment (actually $4.50).
I am assuming, that when you request another tech, no one thinks that they can answer the question more clearly, as the instructions I gave you were, fairly clear and correct.
I have been working in the automotive industry for more than 30 years, in the auto wrecking industry, autobody industry and as a licenced mechanic.I have also owned many convertibles in that time, and adjusted windows in them as well as hardtop cars.The procedure is the same.
When you remove the door panels, you will see that the guides, at the bottom will have an adjustment.

1993 Ford Mustang Convertible Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have a large yellow wire that is connected to the starter relay and it burned in two and the fuel pump shut off and engine quit. It willstart if I connect the two ends together but will still burn in two. When connected and key on I can hear the relay
(Constant Control Relay Module)kick in and the fuel pressurising and engine will start. I need a detailed diagram of the circuit to troubleshoot. I suspect maybe a shorted fuel pump. Also is the CCRM controling the fuel pump or is there another fuel pump relay?

Thanks

Hello, I'm working on a wiring diagram for you. I'll need your email address please?

You can believe the wire that burned is a fusable link. It will need be replaced with a section of fusable link wire no longer than 9".

I hope you can disconnect the fuel pump from the system and see if the fusable link can be successfuly replaced. If it can be then it's reasonable to believe the fuel pump is the whole problem.

Please advise the size engine. I'll double check but I think the CCRM is the relay for the fuel pump without a remote relay somewhere else.

Roger

Thanks for your quick reply. The wire does apear to be a fusable link, since it burned in half I can't say for sure. I do know that It becomes hot when the ignition switch is turned on to start and burns then. Let me start from the starter relay. The wire is connected to the starter relay is yellow ( about a 10gage)for about 3" then there are 3 wires connected ( which 2 are fusable links and the third is the wire that burned in two. I traced the burned wire and it splits in to 2 yellow wires so I seperated the 2 yellow wires and found that one conned did not burn but when I tried the second wire it got hot. I could also hear the CCRM click and the fuel pump run and the car would start. I did take my meter and traced the bad yellow wire to the CCRM. I also belive the fuel pump may be the shorted since it is a little load ( I can hear it from the front of the car). I hope I can use a diagram to take the fuel pump out the circuit. I did activate the intertia shut off switch and the fuel pump did not come on but when the bad wire was connected the CCRM clicked and the wire got hot. Could it some where else besides the fuel pump? It is a 2.3L

Thanks

Yes, it could be something besides the fuel pump.

If the yellow wire traced directly from the starter relay to the CCRM disconnect it. With the inertia shut off tripped the fuel pump should not get power. More on this later.

Still will need your email address to send you a diagram when I get it copied.

Roger

Thanks, my email is [redacted]


J.C.

Forgot add, yes I did disconnect the bad wire.

J.C.

Email is on the way. I'll check with you tomorrow for an update.

Thanks,

Roger

Thank you

Will the diagram I sent be enough?

Roger

Actally I have that diagram. The bad yellow wire is supposed to be "hot at all times" ( Fuse link J) by way of the hot side of the starter relay and then going to the CCRM and PCM acording to the diagram. I took my multimeter and checked for a curcuit to ground when the switch was off and showed no curcuit but when I checked it with the switch on the yellow wire shows a curcuit to ground and I also hear, feel the CCRM kick in. I am going to start with replacing the CCRM, that is the least costly compared to the PCM and fuel pump. What do you think?

Well, That fusible link burned for a reason. I could not recommend investing in any parts until unplugging all the components in the fused circuits involved as needed to identify/isolate the short.

It would be easy to temporarilly wire in a flat fuse holder big enough to hold a 30 amp circuit breaker where the link burned. Using a circuit breaker keeps you from buying a bunch of fuses for testing.

With a few minutes time you could plug/unplug components until you pin point the trouble. When the circuit breaker quits tripping and stays reset you can make a professional and long lasting repair ending with restoring the original fusable link configuration.

Any help?

Roger

Yes, you are correct on a breaker. Can you suggest which componets to take out of the circuit and how I can isolate them?

Thanks,
J.C.

Disconnecting anything from the circuit will isolate it as all components on the circuit are wired in parallel.

You stated the yellow wire first appeared to run to the CCRM. Disconnect it. Plug in your circuit breaker. Does the breaker trip if you turn on the key? Yes? Leave the CCRM disconnected and try something else the same way. Doesn't trip the breaker? Key off. Reconnect the CCRM. Key on. Does it trip the breaker now? Yes? Replace the CCRM.

Use the same approach with the fuel pump or anything else on the circuit.

I am going to try to come up with a power distribution diagram tomorrow when I can access a different data base. It may tell us more of what depends on this fusable link.

Thoughts?,

roger

I will get a 30 amp breaker tomorrow and proceed with the test as you described. I believe from what I have read and seen on other diagrams that the CCRM is a multible relay module being powered from at least 5 locations. I checked the other fuse links and they were not damaged nor were they getting hot. The CCRM controls the injectors, fuel pump, a/c clutch circuit, and electric cooling fan. Thank you, please send the other diagram if you find it. I will let you know if I find out anything else. I do have a friend that is checking on a CCRM that he has off a parts car.

The two Blk/Org wires connecting to the CCRM are powered by the same 18 gauge fusible link G (Brown in color).

The single Pnk/Blk wire connecting to the CCRM is powered by a different 18 gauge fusible link H (Brown in color).

The Yellow wire that connects to the CCRM and also to the PCM is powered by a 20 gauge fusible link J (Dk Blu in color).

All three fusible links G,H, and J are powered by the yellow link wire connected to the hot side of the starter relay.

These links do not appear to power any other items. You may find it beneficial to seperate the three and test on at a time.

Chances are 2/1 the CCRM has the problem short.

Roger

I was thinking CCRM also. I did go purchase a used CCRM from Wrecking yard today ( $11) so not much money. Anyway it was off a 1992 2.3 mustang convertible with the same part number. The car had been wrecked so I would asume it was good. I agree with what you said on the leads but there is one difference on both cars. That is that there is asize small yellow wire connected with the yellow fuse J wire. It is connected before the fuse link. It goes to the PCM. I drilled the revits out of the old CCRM and traced all the good circuits. On your drawing (CCRM) Pins 12&5 Control the fuel pump. No falt with fuel pump. Pins 1,2&3 Control the cooling fan. No falt with the cooling fan. Pins 8 & 24 (Solid Red Wire from CCRM in seperate diagram I will send you) control the following: Fuel Injectors,Idle Air Control valve,Canister purge solenoid,mass air flow sensor,EGR Vacum regulator solenoid,3-4 shift solenoid, & torque converter clutch solenoid. Is there a way to check the resistance of each of these and rull them out one by one? Can you find out what is exceptable range? I think we are norrowing the problem down but not quite there yet. I will scan a copy of the other diagram and email it to you from work in the morning. The transmission does slip in OD but not in any other gears. Could this be a faulty solenoid in the transmission giving me all these problems?

Thanks,
J.C.

....there is a size small yellow wire connected with the yellow fuse J wire. It is connected before the fuse link. It goes to the PCM.

When the above observation is compared to the one I sent...The Yellow wire that connects to the CCRM and also to the PCM is powered by a 20 gauge fusible link J (Dk Blu in color)....I haven't grasped the difference. If it is before the Link J that would mean it is not fuse protected.

With the CCRM being a sealed unit I don't think we will be able to obtain published resistance values.

There should be an electrical connector to the transmission that could be disconnected to eliminate the torque converter clutch for testing...but the solenoid isn't energized until all the shifting has completed. Might be a bit tricky to isolate.

I'll check for your email later today. I have a medical appointment to make and a service call afterwards.

Roger

Roger, I tested each part of the circuit. I have norrowed it down to either the 3-4 shift solonoid or the clutch solenoid in the transmission. I started the car and drove it in reverse and drive, in my drive way once I disconnected the 3 wire connector on the transmission with out any wire failure or heating up. According to the internet they both should be 26-40 ohms. I found where they go to the PCM and checked with ohm meter and got 31.9 ohms on TCC Solenoid and 15.4 ohms on 3-4 shift solenoid. Looks like that is the bad (SHORTED)one. I am going to drop the transmission pan (A4LD) and replace both of them for peace of mind. I can get both of them today @ local NAPA for $52 each. I will have to be extremely carefull removing the valve body not to let things move or lost. I will also be changing the filter at that time. Thank you again and I will keep you posted. Do you think maybe that is why my OD was slipping?

J.C.

Yes, I think the TCC Solenoid could be the cause of the OD slip.

I like the track you are on. Take care inside the tranny. One human hair can jam a valve.

Does the fluid smell burned at all? Any debris in the bottom of the pan?

Roger

Hope you had a good holiday Roger. Just want to give you a update. I have a mixture of both good and bad news. First the good news, I droped the pan and discovered that the 3-4 shift solenoid was burnt at the lead (common to both solenoids)almost in two. The common lead for both comming in at the connector was also burned almost in two. Thats all of the good news. Bad news is that the T fluid is kinds dirty and burnt smell with lots of clutch particals stuck to the magnet in the pan. I then removed the valve body and I figured that I would investigate why the 3-4 solenoid failed before just throughing another one on. Had to pull the valve body off to do that any way. After pulling valve body I seen some heavy particals and also seen about 10 pc of metal or aluminum pieces half round about .030 thick and up to .500 long ( Simular to a spring cut to pieces). That explains why the the slip in OD and then the solenoid failure is why the electrical problem. I decided not to put the solenoids in because what ever those pieces were may have been the reason for the t slip in OD and solenoid failure. A rebuild would have to be done or I would have to find a good used one. I can do some mechanical repirs myself, how difficult and cost, from what I am descibing would it be for me to rebuild it myself? I hate to spend a whole lot of money in it since I am not planning on keeping it. Do you know what years and what kind a vehicals may have the same transmission ( 1993 A4LD with the 3 wire plug)? Any way thank you and you have been very helpfull.

Sincerely,
J.C.

Yikes! There is no wisdom in my even suggesting you could rebuild this tranny yourself.

There are just too many specifications that come into play for you to have the tools handy and make all the right decisions. I don't overhaul my own either. Updates and bulletins are released to technicians frequently to keep quality current.

If the car is indeed not a keeper then I suggest replacing the tranny with a used one. The salvage yards can guide you the compatibility ranges for year/model interchanges. :(

To accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me please close the question or click on the OK TO PAY THE MECHANIC button.

I thank you,

Roger

1993 Ford Mustang Convertible Electrical / Lighting Systems   

The switch for my mustang convertible isn't working. All I hear is a click when using.

I've waited an over 90 minutes and it still says "waiting for mechanics reply." If I don't get a timely reply, I get a refund,right. Thankyou, Brian Eiland

If the clicking is coming from behind the rear seat, remove the seat. There you will find pump and relay. When you find this then we can start to diagnosis.

Thanks for your help. Does this mean that I'll have to reolace the pump/relay? Are there more than one connector pieces, and are they exposed and can become disconnected? This happened overnight. If you still think I should remove back seat I'll do it. In the meantime is there a release to put the top back up? thanks, Brian(idiot boy)

Sorry for the delay in reply. No it doesnt mean you have to replace the motor and relay at this time but you do need to remove the rear seat if this is where the clicking is coming from. Once removed there should be a release valve on the pump allowing you to pull the top manually into a full lock position. When you do this, make sure you are on level ground and have someone depress the up switch while doing so. If this doesnt work let me know and we will continue. If at anytime you fill that my assistance is not helpful you can contact [redacted] for any refunds. wise, I will continue to provide you with what I know of a system that Ford has had a problem with for quite some time.

I couldn't get the seat out. I went through the trunk and I saw a tube with wires...etc. I didn't see a release switch so I finally just had a neighbor help me put the top up while using the dashboard switch. It's now up and locked.
Can you give me details on how to proceed? Also, I'll continue to check for release switches. Thanks

Again, sorry for the late reply, been out of town. The release valve should be on the pump itself. To access the seat has to come out. On the bottom half of the seat you should find two bolts that hold it in place. Remove these and lift up then out on the seat. The rear may be held in by the seat belt retactors. You will need a tork head bit to remove these. Once removed, push slightly back and up on the seat. This will unlock it from its retainers. When you have this all out of the way, you will find the pump/motor assembly and relay. There will be some sound deadening material that you have to lift to get to it. If there is an oily mess, it may be due to you manually lifting the top without releasing pressure to the pump, but then again, it could be to a leak or bad pump. Either way, once you get to this point we can try and solve your problem.

Sorry, I dropped the ball. Emergencies. I'll get on it tonight or tomorrow. Thanks

Take your time. I sometimes am not always behind the screen but if I get a reply, I try to get back as soon as I can. Again, if you don't like what you get in advise, contact mark or ask me to release the question and another tech can answer.
Good Luck,
Paul

Hi Paul-
I took the bottom part of the back seat out, but couldn't get the top part, so I just went back through the trunk and everything was visable. Somebody told me to switch the two relays so I did. The same clicking noise. So now what?
Brian

Hey Brian,
If with the change of relays and you still get a click, the pump and motor is most likely the problem. Again, check for any oily mess. If there was a leak and the pump is low or out of oil, it will not fuction. The unit is usually sold together. You might want to check on this site your on in their parts section to locate a used unit. These used to be a "dealer only" item and run about $250 but you might check with a local parts house(PepBoys,AutoZone etc)to see if they can special order one for you.
Good Luck,
Paul

1993 Ford Mustang Convertible Electrical / Lighting Systems   

1993 Mustang Convertable Top switch doesn't work. Every other switch and bulbs work great. I know that I might have to replace the Motor. Is that the tube looking thing behind backseat? I don't have the money now. There is something like a box under the passenger seat. What is it? Also, is there some hidden release so that I can put the top up/down manually? I'm completely lost. I hope you can help. Thanks, Brian

Is it possible to have the same tech that helped last time, kaptnzog?

The switch is the probable problem.The motor seldom quits.It can be tested , by removing the plug at rear of switch and fashioning a small jumper wire (10 guage wire) to manually operate. The motor / pump behind the seat has a small fill hole at the top to add fluid.Disconnecting the linkage to manually operate, would be difficult. I prefer the 'jumper wire' method to opreate, until you can get a switch.

Thanks for the answer. Can you give me detailed info? I don't know what fluid to use; how and where to put the 10 gage wire; is it the switch on the steering column? I know 0 abt this stuff, but willing to give it a try. Thanks, Brian

Unplug the wire from the top switch. The wire plug will have 3 terminals, a ground and one up and one down. If you put the bare wire in the ground connector, and the other end in either remaining plug, the top will go up or down.It will not hurt anything if you get the wires wrong . If the motor hums, then its ok. Try the wire first.

1992 Ford Mustang Convertible All Part Groups   

I want to take out my 4 cylinder engine and put in a v6 or v8. What would be the best way to accomplish this task?

This is a rather involved. What you really need is possesion or access to a complete donor car. This way you can get the complete wiring harness, computer, mounts, exhaust, etc.

If you want to buy a conversion kit, they are availalbe on the internet.

Is there a specific kind of engine that would be best for the car?

I would recommend any engine that came factory installed in the car. Unless you live in area that has shops that specialize in conversions (experience and possitive word of mouth).

1991 Ford Mustang Convertible Engine  When starting When cold

Engine is a 5.0. Just recently I have been adding radator fluid every so often with no visible leaks any where in the system. When starting the car it will run rough with white smoke coming out of the exhaust, after car warms up to normal there is no smoke or very little coming out of the exhaust, could I have blown the lower intake gasket what do you think.

The engine running rough could be caused from a few items. When was the last time you did a complete tune up to include fuel filter. The white smoke is an indication that either you have a head gasket that is failing (once warm it seals) or you have a leak on the intake manifold (also once warm it seals). To identify which direction to go.. pull the spark plugs and look at them, compare them to new ones and to each other.. is one really discolored or appear clean in comparison to the rest.. this could be caused by the seepage of water into the cylinder and causing a steam cleaning effect or could discolor the plug... Also you did not identify if you have any need to add water or when this problem started.. if it was post overheat you now have a reason for the possible head gasket failure... If you are mechanical in nature and decide to make these repairs yourself.. BE CAREFUL when removing the intake manifold there is an allen head bolt between the runners and needs to be removed first and reinstalled last or you can warp you intake manifold (costing big $$$). Hope this helps.. Al

I have been adding water every so often and I did a complete tune up on the car just 5 days ago. When I pulled the number three plug it was diff. from the others most were white in color and number 3 was brown in color. The car has not overheated at any point.

Have you been good at changing your anti freeze every year of do you tend to let it stay in the radiator longer.. like for years at a time.. this is important.. waiting on a reply. AL

1991 Ford Mustang Convertible Electrical / Lighting Systems   

So about a year ago my windows on my gt convertible stopped working. Then my top stopped working. I had a brand new motor for the top installed, but still nothing. Then my locks and blinkers stopped working. What could it be and how can I fix it?

Troubleshooting electrical can be daunting and time consuming.

You will benefit with wiring diagrams in hand to see what components or on each systems' circuit.

Are you experienced in electrical on cars? Are you confident you can locate the relays, switches, fuses, etc and trace the circuits?

If so, I'll do all I can to get you good wiring diagrams. May I have your email address please? I'll put a file together to send to you.

Roger

Yes and that would be great. My e-mail address is [redacted] .
Yeah I figured it must be some switch or fuse after everything started going out. Thanks

I'll start putting diagrams together and send them your way.

Please check your inbox and if you don't see the file check your spam/junk mail too.

Might take 30 minutes.

Roger

Great, will be watching for it.

Three diagrams on the way now.

R

Got them! I am going to have my handy electricia/mechanic/boyfriend look them over and start trouble shooting, I will update you soon. Thanks Roger!

I'll be here if you need something else, just ask.

Roger

1991 Ford Mustang Convertible All Part Groups   

my speedometer will not move, I took it to ford, they said it is not the speedometer cable, but the speedo head ? they do not make this part any more, what do i have to do to fix this problem, ? tom

Hello, Did Ford actually diagnose the problem as the speedometer head or was that a guess?

If it is the speedometer itself see if there is a speedometer repair facility in your area. Ask them what might be done with the head to fix it?

Can you get under the car and disconnect the speedometer cable? If you can please try putting the exposed speedo cable end in the chuck of a low speed cordless drill. Run the drill in reverse and ask some one to see if the speedo works? Does the odometer work?

If they do the problem could be the speedo drive gear on the output shaft of the transmission (metal), or the driven gear (plastic) may be worn out.

Please advise,

Roger

rich , I will try what you said,
ford charged 70 dollars to check it, they said the
cable was fine, he said that he spun the cable and
the speedometer jumped a little, he seems to think that it is the speedo head (as he called it) and that they would charged quite abit to take off the whole set of gauges inside the car,. tom

I believe they could have been a bit more descriptive with the diagnosis. After all, the cable end that attaches to the speedo head could have a problem. Especially if it is a plastic tip mounted on the end of the cable. The cable may be turning inside the tip that is supposed to turn the speedometer.

This would call for a new cable and the speedo head would not have to come out. If the cable were disconnected from the speedo head you could inspect the cable end for trouble.

Do you work on cars? Have tools?

Roger

roger, i will try today what you suggested with the
drill, ford said that they had taken the cable off of the trans, and spun it, the needle jumped a little bit, thats why he said, he beleived that the speedo head was damaged ? I am not a mechanic, but I have
worked on cars, lawnmowers, cushman motor scooters,
wizzard motor bikes, anything old like me, (67) tom

Ford may have charged you to cut corners and not follow through with a complete diagnosis.

My suggestion to inspect the speedo end of the cable is a good one. See, we don't know if the cable now in use is the type with or without the plastic tip fitted to the end of the cable. We don't know the condition of the cable end. It could be worn out.

Your efforts should get to the real cause. If you find a worn out cable end tell Ford you want a refund for in incomplete and misdiagnosis. If it turns out the speedo head is really the problem then Ford happened to guess right or else didn't really tell you the whole story of what they really did in diagnosis.

Have you found a speedometer repair shop in your area?

I'm in my sixties as well.

Roger

roger, I really don't have the equipment to raise the
mustang, and there is very little room under the
mustang to even get to the cable, so I started taking
the shroud off under the stearing wheel, (removed the
hood latch handle first) took off the small shroud (3 screws) then realized I would have to somehow removed
the other schrouds, I could see where the plastic fitting is on the back of the speedometer, I just can't see where the cable is, not much room.
am I making a mistake by going further , of should I
just find a speedometer shop? this car is a christmas present for my grandaughter, I've been getting it all set up for her, It's been setting since 2002, I bought it new, (she doesn't know it)

What an awesome gift for your grandaughter!!

A speedo shop will have to quote their own prices and yes to minimize delays I'd recommend you give them a call to see what they have to offer.

Roger

May I have your email address please? Just want to send you some removal instructions for the speedometer to look over.

Roger

roger, my email is [redacted]

Thanks, I'll send you three pages. Check your inbox and junk/spam mail for 1991 MUSTANG INSTRUMENT CLUSTER REMOVAL.

Roger

1991 Ford Mustang Convertible All Part Groups   

would like a diagram annd information on replacing timing belt on 1991 ford mustang 2.3 4cyd (8spark plug engine, have it apart after belt broke but want to be sure how to set timing marks.

Hello, What email address would you like this information sent to please?

Roger

This is the first listing of the question posted today. Lets work here and I have asked the Administrator to refund the other posting.

What email address shall I send the data you requested to please? I have scanned the information and have it ready.

Thanks, Roger

Hello? I'm trying to get your email address so I can send the info you requested to you.

I have a grandson playing baseball and will be going to the game. I'll check back later. Please know that I want to help. You responded to duplicating the question so quickly I believed you were right with me.

Roger

My e-mail address is [redacted] or [redacted]
Thanks Don

Please check your inbox and spam/junk mail folders for Subject Line 1991 Mustang.

I'll send it to both addresses you provided.

Roger

Don, Did you receive the five pages I sent to you? Is it what you needed?

Roger

All Parts Site problems that prevented my seeing your replies to me have been corrected. How are you doing with this car?

Roger

All Parts Site problems that prevented my seeing your replies to me have been corrected. How are you doing with this car?

Don, Did you receive the five pages I sent to you? Is it what you needed?

Roger

1991 Ford Mustang Convertible All Part Groups   

would like reference to replcing timing belt 1991 2.3 4cyl(8 spark plug) engine ford mustang, would like diagram, as to timing marks, as the belt broke.

Did you post this question twice today? You need not pay twice so unless you tell me to go ahead, this duplication will be ignored and I'll write and request the Administrator to refund you.

Roger

Yes I did post the question twice, I had a mixup on the computer, some how I'm not the smartest on this thing, thank you for your honesty. Don

I have not recieved an answer as of yet that I can find. Don't know what else to do.. Don

1990 Ford Mustang Convertible Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction  Always

My convertible roof no longer works. I believe the electrical motor has just broken..so I can't lower/raise the roof. When I push the switch to lower the top, it just clicks..could it be a fuse..I couldn't be that lucky I'm sure. Also, where's the moror located and would you recommend I repalce it myself? Thanks so much! Kevin

Hi;
Sounds like the motor. It should be located in the backseat on the drivers side. You will have to remove the back seat and the side panel. Good Luck Les.

Hi, is this something I could replace myself..assuming I get a rebuilt motor?

Hi;
Yes. The motor is hyfraulic. It controls two cylinders to raise and lower the top. Make sure that you bleed out the system real good and run the top up and down for at least ten times. As a word of advise make sure the car is running. Had a customer tell me once that it only did it five times before the battery went dead. Good Luck Les.

Yes you can definately replace the motor yourself but before you do pull that motor check the fuse first and check for power at the switch location .
and there is a ohm test you can do on the motor to see if it is an open circuit,or a resistence reading.
then you can bypass the switch straight to the motor to see if the motor works,it may be your switch.
if there is no power at the switch then it is not your motor, check your fuse again because power is being dropped somewhere

hope this helps

Thank you..the dashboard component is very loose. Assume the fuse box is located under the dashboard and I should look for a bad fuse first.

yes check for the blown fuse then check for power at the switch

1990 Ford Mustang Convertible Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

i modified my 1990 lx 5.0 convertible by putting on a cobra intake.afterwards, i tried to turn my lights on and go take it for a spin,but they didn't work. actually nothing was working inside the car except the high beams and emergency flashers.i checked all the fuses and relays i could find,but am still clueless.i don't know what could have happened.any help at all would be greatly appreciated.thank you.

I won't be able to access a schematic before tomorrow but I'm thinking there has been a wire left disconnected or loose.

From your description I would look for a fusible link. The ground connections for the lights are not normally made to the engine but would be on the body. With so many systems effected I'm thinking we need power, not ground.

Can you follow the battery positive cable (and any smaller wires also connected to the positive post) to their connection point at the other end? Fusible link wire (if bad) will litterally pull apart with little effort if it has burned in two and opened a circuit. High amp fuses in the relay panel under the hood have the window that lets you see if they have failed.

Was the ignition key "OFF" when you reconnected the battery?

Roger

thank you very much. when my dad replaced the positive cable, he left off one of the connections to the starter solenoid and now it works. it was stuffed under all the other wires.i appreciate your help very much.

1990 Ford Mustang Convertible Electrical / Lighting Systems Failing Happens always Always

Electrical power to interior courtesy lights. No headlights no power to ignition switch. Battery good. Where to go from here?

Check battery cables, fuses, and fuseible links. Check the terminals on the battery also, sometimes acid bleeds down terminal/cable while still looking okay. A test light or DC multimeter will speed troubleshooting. Don't overlook the ground wire or positive connection at the solenoid.

I should have written more clear.. We have good power to interior lights. No power to ignition or headlamps. Batt is good. Ground is good..

Still follow the same instructions, you are missing power somewhere. Use the following link for a repair guide, with wiring diagrams that should be helpful.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

1990 Ford Mustang Convertible Ignition System Won't Start  

Hello my Mustange was stolen and they ripped out the tumbler and wires from the ignition module, I bought a new module, and a new tumbler and key, installed them and the veh will not start. The vehicle only startes when I place the wires that are hanging there back in the same location from when the vheicle was hot wired.

Hello, Does your ignition key contain an anti-theft transponder that an anti-theft module must "learn" the value of so the car will start??

Please advise,

Roger

no it does not

Do you want/need a wiring diagram? What color are the wires you connect to get it to start?

I can't see what you can so you can imagine how difficult it is to try and decide where to get started here.

When you reconnect the wires that are hanging from the theft what happens? Will the key then start the car?

Are you stating that you replaced the ignition switch and key lock cylinder? (An ignition module should be under the hood)

Roger

Yes I need a wiring diagram, and it is a ignition switch, and the key cyclinder was replaced, the two jumper wires are red and they are placed into a port with yellow wires for power and are going to the other side of the female ingintion switch to activate the fuel pump, and the starter. second port on the other side, and the fourt port down on the ingnition switch

What engine please? 2.3L or 5.0L? What series Mustang? GT?

Do you want the wiring diagram emailed or faxed? I'll need your email addy or the fax number please.

Roger

5.0 HO, AND MY EMAIL IS [redacted] thanks

OK, You didn't say what series Mustang you have. I'll send info on the GT series.

Roger

1990 ford mustang 5.0 ho lx convert, automatic transmission, all power options, limited 7 up edition
I hope this helps, let me know.

Thanks, that's what I needed. I have medical appointments this morning. Back ASAP.

Roger

Let's see how well this offering does. Can you read the four latest pages I've sent?

Roger

yeah they came out really well, and the trouble shooting pages that you sent are great to. Thanks

Go get 'em. I'll be here for your update on what you find.

Thanks,

Roger

1990 Ford Mustang Convertible Engine   

starts sometimes other times not If it sets for a while then it will start; changed fuel pump 6 montns ago. Just changed fuel filter seemed OK Don't know if it is fuel problem or electrical

When you first initially attempt to start the car for the first time does it run for a few seconds and then stalls or just turns over and over without any indication of starting?

when trying to start the engine it will crank over but will not start: no hint of wanting to start

I just talked to my son (the mustang is his)and he said driving down the road the engine quits and will not start immediately but if left for a couple (2) hours it will start

What's happening is the fuel line coming from the fuel tank that goes to the fuel filter most likely has a piece of debris large enough that when it works it's way toward the fuel filter it chokes off fuel supply to the engine hence the engine stalls. Your waiting time until you can restart the engine is dependent on how fast this debris trickles back away from the fuel filter. The same could occur on the other side of the fuel filter as debris approaches the fuel injectors. These lines should be cleared. This is a cheap fix. Labor only if your son can do it himself. Try this first. I'm 88% sure this will cure the problem. Be careful with the gas situation if he's doing it himself.

10% would point to the fuel pump malfunctioning. Before he starts blowing out fuel lines, take the car down the block and let it stall out. Hopefully it's in a quiet spot when it happens. Then energize the ignition but don't turn over the engine. For a split second you should here a quick hum or moan in the rear of the car. If you don't the fuel pump is not energizing and will need to be replaced by a qualified mechanic.

The last 2% would go to 1 or more clogged or malfunctioning fuel injectors and/or the electrical impulses to the fuel injectors received from the computer module are being interfered with. This again need to be looked at by a qualified mechanic. All in all it does not sound like an expensive repair. I hope I have shed some light and answered your question.

The clogged fuel line makes sense because I Asked my son what kind of fuel he was using? He said ARCO and also said he would almost run empty; which would account for picking up debris from the bottom. I told him he should never go below 1/4 tank and use an additive to clean the system. Previous to changing the fuelpump just after he bought the mustang he had a mechanic checkout why the fuelpump was not working and traced it to the module located under the drivers seat which they jiggled and the fuelpump started working. My son said when the engine quits when he turns the ignition on he does hear the sound of the fuelpump so it is working. We will try cleaning the fuel lines. Thankyou for the advise

If you are satisfied with the answer you received from me, please - Click "OK" to finish and end your question.

1989 Ford Mustang Convertible Engine Chugging When driving No pattern

I'll be driving along, everything's fine, then I notice the oil pressure drops and the trans has trouble shifting into overdrive and it starts chugging. When I slow down to almost a rolling stop, oil pressure returns to normal.

I've done a tune up, changed trans filter and fluid, replaced the vacuum module, replaced the fuel filter, checked PCV and it's not clogged, checked for vacuum leaks- none found. I'm at a loss.

At times, it runs normally, then all of a sudden this problem starts; sometimes for a few miles sometimes just for a minute. It isn't a constant problem but it's getting worse.

Any advice? Could it be the B-Map sensor?

Thanks-

Hi;
Have you been able to pull codes out of the computer? Need them first before I can go any further. Thanks Les.

I'll check over the weekend- others have told me that this isn't something that would show up as it's too old to pull accurate codes. But I'll let you know what I get.
Thanks- Tom

Hi;
Just let me know. Les

1989 Ford Mustang Convertible Electrical / Lighting Systems   

1989 5.0 gt the amps light will not go out until engine revs above 2000

100% sure you require another alternator.
Alternators have a low rpm and high rpm charging circuit.They are tested for both, at idle and under a load.
Check with your local All Parts supplier (or other?)for a reman unit.
Easy to change and examine belt for cracks at that time.

This is a new alternator and on the test sequence .It indicates the amp light should go out 389 rpm .

Sometimes new ones faulty check with your supplier.

1989 Ford Mustang Convertible Electrical / Lighting Systems   

no power going to one fues in fues box for tail lights,all other lights work, brakes, backup, etc...

Hello, No power to only the tail light fuse?? Have you looked at the back side of the fuse box for a broken wire or terminal?

Roger

no but will ck now

all wires are ok

The main light switch receives power from Fuse #4 (15 amp) on a Tan/White wire. When turned on the main light switch outputs power to the tail lights on a Brown wire.

Would you like a wiring diagram? I'll need your email address please.

Roger

Roger my e-mail is [redacted]

Thank you

I sent the diagram. It may have been sent twice!

Roger

There is no power going to Fuse #4 (15 amp) how can I get power to this fuse. Can I by-pass something to get power.

Look under the hood at the fusible link wires that connect to the remote starter solenoid switch.

There is a Black Fusible Link that powers Fuse #4. Is it connected? Has it burned? If so, there is a short somewhere.

Roger

1989 Ford Mustang Convertible All Part Groups   

will the 235/50zr18 stock fan blade style wheels from a 2006 ford mustang gt fit my 1989 convertible gt ford mustng

No you have a 4 lug wheelon your 1989 as opposed to the 5 lug on the 2007
The tire size would still interchange.
There is an adapter kit that can be purchased for the application.
I hope this helps

OK THANKS ALOT

you are welcome

1989 Ford Mustang Convertible Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have a 1989 mustang lx convertible i need to know if there is a relay somewhere for the power windows and power locks i cant see to find where the powerlocks fuse is in the fuse panel nor does ford seem to mark it . None of my windows or door locks work . I thought it might be my switch on the driverside door but it seem to have power going to it but nothing seems to happen when I push the switch the circuit breaker is fine for the power windows .There use to be an alarm system in the car but I removed all the wiring and reconnected everything back to the way it was from the factory .... still nothing happens please help

When i connect the circuit braker in i hear a clicking from another location (far left side of the dash) to something that looks like a relay but isnt

take a look under the hood on the passenger side over wheel well.
There will be another box with relays and the fuse to the powered systems.
I hope this helps

on this year there doesnt seem to be another box under the hood or i just dont see it i looked but found nothing

do you have the 5.0? or 2.3 ?

5.0

According to the specification it will be located Under hood, driver side, front side of strut tower, mounted on inner fenderwell

ok ill try to look there

well i found it but it is all fusible links instead i did find a really corroded wire i fixed it, the windows and lock all work except for the drivers side window and lock any suggestions on this maybe another bad wire just todriver side control or do you think i have a bad swicth i could see the window not working but both the window and lock not working !!!!!!! whats is your opinion

remove the switch and spray the connector and blades with a electrical parts cleaner.
This is probly a bad connect at the switch.

i would do that but there is no connector at the swicth it looks like the harness is wired directly to the switch is tha harness all 1 piece because i do not see any connector plugs at the swicth only in the kick panel unless it is wired to the window motor and that is where ill find the plug to unplug the swicth even my brother said this is not a typical mustang set up is it possible this car is like a half year of something he is an avid mustang lover and even hehas never seen anything like my setup

Anything is possible There should be a 1 button, 5 prong switch Left & Right, You can spray ythe connection box really wet with the elect parts cleaner and start moving and operating the switch while it is wet.
This should do it and get things working if it is a bad connection within the switch itself.

sounds good thanks for all your help

1989 Ford Mustang Convertible Ignition System   

Yesterday we charged the battery and ran our very protected 5.0L Pony on about an hour's worth of stop and start errands. Stopping in our drive to get mail, hubby put in in Park. It died and would not start again. Pushed it to carport and no amount of tinkering encouraged it back to life. The battery showed a charge of 9V. This morning hubby discovered the car would start in Neutral but not in any other gear...suggestions?

Hi, Did the battery get charged back up to 12 volts?

The Park/Neutral safety start switch may need an adjustment to permit starting the engine in Park, or if the Park circuit of the switch has gone bad just replace the switch. Parts are available at local auto parts national chain stores.

Do all of the shift lever positions appear to be correct?

Roger

Yes, as far as I know the battery was chgd to 12V. And the shift positions appear to be correct. I passed the Park/Neutral switch info on to hubby for now...thanks...

I'm here to help, please update me when you can. Should you need something else... just ask.

Roger

sorry to take so long. passed info on to hubby but his back is out so I'm it. how do I get 2 and check the park/neutral safety switch? I can troubleshoot electrical stuff thanks to Uncle Sam...

The neutral safety switch is mounted on the left side and is not adjustable. I am wrong about adjustment being possible. My source is the Mitchell 1 Auto Repair data Base.

In order for the engine to start there must be continuity through the switch. Switch input is on the Wht/Pink wire. Switch output to the starter relay is on the Red/Lt Blu wire.

Roger

To close this question please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

thanks for your help. turned out to be internal transmission problems beyond our expertise. a few medical/hospital issues interfered with responding. my apologies

Hope all is well with you and yours now. As a cancer survivor I understand medical needs interupting what ever the current plan is.

Ready to close the question? Please click on OK to finish up.

God Bless,

Roger

1988 Ford Mustang Convertible Engine Upgrade  

i recently purchased an x-cam,along with trick flow twist wedged heads,for my 1988 mustang gt can i just go ahead an install these, or do i need to make modifications to the engine, or the pistons.

I would recommend contacting the dealer where purchased or the manufacturer to find out what if any mods may be needed. Usually these will have some kind of literature with them. Normal parts many times have special notes. This way you will avoid any surprises.

Tyler

I agree with Tyler, also you might have to replace/modify the eng. computer because of the cam. Just a thought....Best is to read the literature/talk to Performance Specialists in your area. Good luck

1988 Ford Mustang Convertible Engine Malfunction When driving When warm 

I have a maf conversion on my car without the vss signals or the fpm2 wires hooked into the computer. When the car goes into closed loop mode after warming it backfires and sputters for about a minute then goes back to normal but it seems to pull back the power compared to when cold. When I try to do a diagnostic test with the engine running with an actron scan tool the first part is a cylinder id which it can never accomplish I tried retarding timing advancing timing even put my foot on the gas but it never completes the cylinder id, it wants me to keep trying I don't know what the problem is please help me.

Hello,

Which engine do you have?

Was this problem (or any problem?) present before the conversion?

There were no problems before the conversion or after the conversion until some time I'm not sure of. I bought the car with the problem but know the previous owner. it's a 302 v8 with a 90 eec4 computer

Consider shopping around for a known good distributor at local salvage yards. You should be able to find one for $20-40. Unless you can get your hands on the tools to disassemble the distributor and replace with new parts.

1988 Ford Mustang Convertible Engine Stalling Happens always Always

Car was running ok till last night when it seems one of the cylinders stopped running. I checked the plugs and wires and dist cap, all seem to be fine. What else could it be?

Hello, All seem to be fine, but can you swap parts with another cylinder and move the problem? This trick would address parts that look okay but fail to work properly.

Could a fuel injector be stopped up?

Roger

Possibly, I use a cleaner on a semi-regular basis. I did just get gas on a near empty tank the day before yesterday, maybe I got some crud in them. How can I check the injector?

Really, it would be great if the cylinder with the problem could be identified.

Can you run the engine with a spark plug wire disconnected from a spark plug and find the cylinder with no effect? If you have spark but the cylinder acts the same with the wire off then you can believe the spark plug is bad or,there is a fuel issue present.

Fuel injectors are commanded by the computer. By plugging in a noid light to the injectors harness connector you can see if the computer is firing the injector. The noid light flashes with each command. If you unplug an injector and the car runs the same... this is another way of identifying which injector has the problem.

Roger

I am currently disassembling the I guess it's the manifold? In order to reach the fuel injectors as they are completely unreachable until I do. I will chek the condition of the injectors as soon as I get there, hehe.

As far as finding which cylinder it is, I'm pretty positive it's the #3 starting from the front of the car going back. There was some slightly yellowish residue on the spark plug. I presume from unburnt fuel. All the other plugs were perfect. The car will not even start right now unless I rev the engine really high when trying to start, if it falls below say 2000rpm it just stalls and dies. There is also a substantial rattle when accelerating.

I will get back to you as soon as I can get to the injectors. Might be a few hours or longer as I also need to get some additional tools (extra deep sockets) to remove some nuts on unusually long bolts to remove the "manifold" to reach the injectors themselves. There's not enough room to get a standard open end wrench in there either.

What engine do you have, please?

Roger

I have the stock 4 cylinder 2.3 liter with EFI.

I removed the injectors after taking apart what seemed like 1/2 the engine, heh. They all appear to be clean and in working order. I had switched plugs and wires around yesterday before taking the engine apart and that yielded no difference in the car's performance. I don't think it's a plug or wire as they are both pretty new, the wires less than 6 months and the plug less than 1 month (NGK Platinum).

Hmmmm, You can't move the problem by swapping parts around. Lots of rattle on acceleration...is your timing belt serviceable?

Jeepers, I can't get too far away from the fact that you encountered the problem quickly after a recent refuel. Bad gasoline??

Roger

The timing belt is the covered belt that is connected to the rod that activates the valves? As far as bad gas, I have seen stuff at the auto-parts store that says Fuel Treatment "neutalizes bad gas" does that actually work? Could I have lost a ring on the piston? Could the wiring harness that activates the injectors be bad? Could the ECM that's attatched to the distributor cap be going or gone bad? I replaced the ignition coil about a month ago also.

Yes, the timing belt turns the cam that actuates the valves.

I'm weak on addatives and I rarely use them. I cannot say I have experience with them to take an advisory position.

I doubt you lost a piston ring. A compression test would give a clue if you had.

The wiring to the injectors very rarely has problems as it never gets disturbed. The noid light would check the harness as well as the computer's commanding the injectors to fire.

That module near the distributor cap is the Ignition Control Module (ICM). A typical failure of the ICM is for the engine to run 10-20 minutes and die. Restart cannot happen until all cools down and then the cycle repeats. To drop one cyliner is not logical as you say you have spark at all cylinders. It is a $100.00 part.

An auto parts store can bench test an ICM. Call them and see if they have the tester. The test is often free of charge.

Roger

The belt appears to be in serviceable condition. Is there an adjustment that I should look for on it. How can I tell if it's adjusted correctly?

At the time the belt is installed new it has identifying marks that are indexed with the gears when they are set in time with markings on the block and the head.

If the belt looks to be in good condition and you do not see cracks or broken teeth there is no reason to assume the belt has jumped over timing gear teeth and cause the engine to be out of time. There is a tensioner that keeps the belt tight to prevent such an event. But, if a tooth breaks on the belt the engine will be out of time. That's why there is a scheduled time to replace the belt before big trouble results from neglect.

To tell if the belt is adjusted correctly simply line up the timing marks on the cam and crank gears. If they will line up then the belt has not jumped and all is in order. I'd have to research to see just how the gears are positioned for timing. Do you need this info? An engine out of time usually will not start and mechanical damage to the valves can result.

Roger

I will look at this issue further. I have a chiltons, will that give me the info? If not, yes I could use it.

Chilton's should show the correct position for the gears. Try looking at the proceedure for replacing the timing belt. There should be a drawing you can rely on. If not, please advise,

Roger

Ok, I pulled the entire cover off of the timing belt and the little marks on the gears more or less line up with the "adjustment" marks next to the gears themselves. I say more or less because they are about 1/4 a tick off but not enough that the belt would have slipped teeth. The belt appears to be whole and complete and in good repair with no missing teeth at this time.

What should I look at next?

Not much else to do but go back together and try different fuel supply. Can you borrow a noid light? If not they are a cheap tool even from Snap-On.

Roger

I don't know anyone with a noid light. I could probably buy one. I presume the full term is solnoid light? the local auto parts should sell them? Should I just try replacing the #3 injector?

Ask for an EFI-Harness tester. They should know how to look it up. Find it on the phone or on eBay.

I cannot advise replacing anything at this point. There has not been results from a diagnostic procedure that identified a failed part.

Roger

Ok, I will try that. I'll get back to you when I get the results. Thanks

Great, good luck with your shopping.

Roger

What about the Fuel Filter. You seem to be aiming towards a fuel issue. It's about 2 or 3 years old. Should I look at replacing that? Since the car wont run to take it to a technician I can't get a comp diagnostic on it. :(

I'm thinking #3 cylinder has a fuel issue because you stateed you have spark and cannot move the problem be swapping parts with another cylinder. Do you have a way to test the fuel rail pressure?

A fuel filter should be replaced at 30,000 miles service or, in my opinion, every two years service. Whichever comes first. You could remove yours and blow backwards through it to see what comes out. (Be sure to depressurize the fuel system first.)

Roger

The fuel rail is the tubing that connects the injectors together yes? I already have it off the car (to remove the injectors) It allows fuel to flow freely through all points that I can tell.

By the by, should I consider using a higher grade of gasoline than regular unleaded? I know some people tell me it helps with certain things but I also know the manufacturer does not recommend using anything other than what they say in the manual.

Yes the injectors are supplied by the fuel rail. When assembled, a fuel pressure gauge is connected to the schrader valve on the rail to test the pump output and ability to hold pressure.

A higher grade of fuel is not necessary. Even the 300 hp Northstar Cadillac will run well on regular unleaded fuel. The manufacturer states Premium Unleaded only. Thats what they used to qualify during emissions testing with the EPA. Most owners state the extra expense nets no real benefit.

Roger

Hello, What is happening with this question please?

Roger

Turns out to have been a cracked head. I misdiagnosed the initial symptom. $600 later my car runs again. hehe.

Case closed.

Thank you for the response. You may want to write to All-Parts.com, Administrator, All-Parts.com and request a refund.

If you wish to accept my answer so that I may be paid please click on the "OK TO PAY MECHANIC" button. It's your choice.

Try us again,

Roger

1988 Ford Mustang Convertible Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Convertible top motor What is the wiring connections within the motor internally. Is there a ground wire that is separately connected, or is it just attached
on outside of motor housing? If I get the motor to work with one lead line and use the other as a ground the motor works, but only in one way Up. If I reverse the wires its works down, but if I connect both wires to the correct wires and take ground wire from housing and ground to body.
It does not work. Is it the relays or is the motor wired wrong????????

Ron Zillmann
retiredlovebugs@verizon.net

The first method , by reversing the wires is how Ford wires its power windows and convert top motors. If you are having problems, test the switch, they have more problems than the motor, which in your case is worling.
The other way with individual up and down wires and a common ground is the GM method.

Motor has been tested and operates when you use contacts to pos and neg. The switch is new and is working. Could the relays be bad. There seems to be no ground contact. Just what is the wiring connections in the motor. Is it wired correctly for the ground to work?????

It does not use a ground, just a polarity reversal system in the switch to operate up and down.

OK I have already found that out today. Now I need to know where the ground wiring from the switch is located. Because that is what the problem is I have
no ground connection???

Some do not use a wire, just a small metal strap when attaching switch. Or just add your own.

1987 Ford Mustang Convertible Electrical / Lighting Systems   

This is a GT convertible. The headlights stopped working for no apparent reason. I replaced the headlight/foglight switch set as well as the turn signal multiswitch with new parts. The parking lights work in both positions-parking lamps and headlamps. Everything else works fine. What else can I check to repair this problem?

Hi, Have you checked Fuse #4? It feeds the headlight switch.

Are any terminals bent or backed-out on the connector for the Multi-function switch connector?

Roger

All fuses are ok....#4 also runs the interior lights, which are working fine. Everything having to do with lights works except the headlights and foglights. Even the high beam "passing" lights work. Signals, flashers, parking lights, marker lights, interior lights all work fine. The switches are brand new and no problems such as damage or corrosion is present. The parking lights work in both the parking light position and the headlight position.

Do you have a wiring diagram? I can send you one.

The Main Light Switch supplies power through the Multi-function Switch for the headlights.

With the headlamp switch on and dimmer set to low beams is there power output on the Red-Blk wire leaving the Multi-function Switch? This is the feed for low beams and fog lights.

When on hi beam is there power output on the Lt Grn-Blk wire leaving the Multi-function Switch?

Roger

I could use a wiring diagram. The one I have is a barely legible poor copy. Thanks. I will check the wires that you mentioned in the morning. Thanks for your help.......Allen

Please advise your email address. I'll send you a decent diagram for external lights.

Roger

Thanks, Roger. It is [redacted]

I'll send it along right now.

Roger

To accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me please click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

I thank you!

Roger

I am trying to find the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button, but do not see it. Please tell me how to do it once I am logged into my account.

I do not get to see what appears on your screen for options. Only your reply.

Do you see a way to close the question? If so, try that.

Roger

1987 Ford Mustang Convertible Drive Train / Driveline   

Trans Mission not shifting properly

2.3 liter A4LD Floor shift

Modulater New

Can you give me some more details of the not shifting correctly problem?
in your words what is the tranny doing and not doing?

Does not shift into 3+4

Burned up 1 transmission new transmission same symptoms

Exact same problem on both transmissions?

Is the linkage okay for the TV cable?

Exact same problem both except no reverse in new tranny. Will check TV Cable today, noreplacements available.

I have completly rebuilt this tranny now and I am leaking fluid from the vent?? Shift very strong/ chrps with a new pump( used aliengment tool) Kevlar bands, planetaries spraigs, clutches and boostvalve kit, new torque converter. Why such fluid pressure??

1986 Ford Mustang Convertible Engine Overheating Happens sometimes 

My daughter's 1986 Mustang 6 cyl. has an issue with the cooling system. We have replaced the radiator and hoses. Every time we put a thermostat in it it overheats, take the thermostat out and all is well, expect now she has no heat. Please help, winter is on the way!

Ok, I am assuming the fan and the fan shroud are in good condition.When engine is cold, remove the cap. Fill (water ok for test) Leave thermostat out for test. With rad cap off, start engine up and watch for bubbles....let me know.
PS.If you remove a thermostat, you should always leave the outer ring intact. With the thermostat working, and open, there is still a restriction.Without this restriction, the coolant passes through the rad too quick.

1986 Ford Mustang Convertible Windows / Glass   

Right rear 1/4 window has slipped off mechanism,will not go up/down. Window motor works and drives large gear. I have removed all panals, nuts and bolts. There is a metal plate held in place with 3 large pop rivets. Do I drill these out to gain access to window mechanism and are they holding something else in place that may fall down? Also how do I remove back seat and bacrest to have more working space. Please reply, thanks.

At the front edge of the lower seat cushion, close to the carpet, there should be a couple of 10 mm head bolts.
When lower seat cushion removed,the rear cushion might be lifted up.First check on bottom for any attaching bolts.
The three large aluminum rivets DO have to come out (chisel or drill) as this is the main acess panel. Nothing will fall out.

1986 Ford Mustang Convertible Electrical / Lighting Systems   

power window and locks do not work.I have checked fuse and motor/switch and changed relay and I do have power at the fuse box.

Do you have power to the switch? A common place for wiring problems is the rubber loom where the wires pass from the body into the door.

NO power to the switch and I have checked the loom for bad wires. If I had a wirig diagram in detail mybe that would help me and you.I can put power to the swicth and make the window work but the locks don't work.

Use the following link (copy and paste into your address bar) to access wiring diagrams-

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/16/71/3c/[redacted] 713c/repairInfoPages.htm

I assume you confirmed power at fuse with a test light or meter.

Did you get the link to work?

If not I'll send you the information directly if you leave your email address (the images won't display here).

Not to sound dumb, but I could not find the part about the window, I found the lock. It is late, talk to you tomorrow. Thanks, Munsey

Hi, this Munsey again. I could not find the window diagram. What is the main hot wire for the windows? Here is my email [redacted]

If you have a pink wire this will be it.

Is your drivers (left) door switch a master switch (controls both windows) or a single switch?

It will be friday before I'am home again and yes it is a master swicth on the left door. Thank again.

1985 Ford Mustang Convertible Fuel System   

I have a 1985 5.0 with the central fuel injection (CFI) system. I would like to place a after market (Summit etc...) intake and carb on this 302. What items other that the fuel pumps might i have to replace? Is this a realistic way to go, or I'm I stuck with this CFI system. Any and all suggestions would be great. Thanks

The fuel pump is the main thing, the only other thing that may differ slightly is the charcoal canister lines. Summit should have a complete conversion kit.

thanks

1984 Ford Mustang Convertible Electrical / Lighting Systems  Happens always Always

My son has an 84 Mustang Convertible. He and a friend had custom built hydraulic hoses to replace the original leaking convertible top hoses. They put light weight motor oil in the system and now the top will go part way up or down and stop. If you wait about 1 min. it will move some more. If you continue this procedure after about 4 pauses, the top will be fully up or down. I told them that I would put the right oil in the system first and then begin trouble shooting the rest. What do you think?

Hi:
You might want to change the oil and then bleed it out. It seems that the system was not bled right. You need to start bleeding at the pump and move your way to the cylinders. Make sure that at no time the reservoir goes dry or you will have to start all over. Good Luck Les.

1983 Ford Mustang Convertible Ignition System Won't Start When turning Always

Hi
1983 GLX 5.0 HO.IT will not say running unless I hold the key betwwen the run and start position.The ignition assembly is fine.When turning the key between the two positions some of the guages go off and back on depending on the position of the key between run and turn.I do have a light green in the ingine compartment that does not have a current and a red and yellow that I do not know where it should conect to.How do I check for a primery current while in the run position ? Please help !!!
Thank you
Mohammad

Hello, The lock cylinder (where you insert the ignition key) is mechanically connected to the ignition switch. The ignition switch is on top of the steering column near the lower part of the dash. If you can "trick" the ignition by holding the key between RUN and START, chances are the ignition switch is worn out or (at the least), out of adjustment/loose.

Has the switch been replaced? Is it loose on the column? No? I recommend a switch.

Not all wires under the hood connect to something. Some wires are for systems your car may not have, or, for testing systems the car does have.

Please advise,

Roger

Hello Roger
I tried every thing to do with the steering wheel column even replaced the whole thing with one from another mustang..it is still the same when on the start position the motor will keep on turning without starting it will not start unless I turn the key back to right before the run position and hold it if I go back to the run it will disengage it is like at that point I get the primary current from the circuits crossing. I replaced the starter solonoid and I thought it should have more than thewire from the battery and the one going to the starter and there is only one more I beleive it to be red and blue connected to the post.. any ideas, please e-mail back
Thank You
Mohammad

Same thing from a different steering column assembly? Okay, I'll get to the Mitchell I Data Base and see what I find.

I have a funeral to attend today, but I'll get back to you as soon as I can. If you need a faster answer, just release the question for someone else to pick up and I won't be offended.

Roger

When you changed out the steering column did you reuse the ignition switch from the previous column? Are you certain the switch is correctly indexed for proper operation?

The RED/LT BLUE wire from the start solenoid goes directly to pin #7 of the ignition switch.

Roger

Hello, any news here?

Thanks,

Roger

Hi Roger
Sorry I was real busy the past few days I,ll try and look at it again tomorrow and report back
thanks
Mohammad

All right, I'll look forward to your findings.

Thanks,

Roger

Hi, will you please update the status of your question? Still need help?

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, What is happening here, please?

Please advise,

Roger

Hello, Will you please take a moment and give me an update on this question? Thanks!

Merry Christmas,

Roger

1983 Ford Mustang Convertible All Part Groups Malfunction Happens always Always

The motor/pump for the top to go up or down has stopped working. Need info to fix. thank you

Hi;
The only fix to it is to replace it. It is located on the drivers side rear seat side panel. On some models you will have to take the seat out to have access to it. Les

1969 Ford Mustang Convertible Ignition System   

have tuned up engine (302) including plugs,points, condenser,wiring,timing and carburetor has new kit problem: engine turns over but will not fire also after cranking solenoid gets hot and smokes

I am assuming the problem started after you did this work and that the car was running before. That would indicate a problem with the work you did.

First, look at the starter issue. You should not crank the starter for more than 15 seconds before you give it a 1 minute break. If it still smokes, you have either a bad solenoid, bad starter, bad cable or wrong plug wiring. If the starter seems to crank at normal speed, suspect the solenoid. If the starter is slow, disconnect the coil wire and see if it is faster. If faster, plug wiring/timing is wrong. If still slow, suspect bad starter.

Next, check for strong spark at the spark plug end of the wires while cranking. If weak, check at the coil wire, if weak, suspect condenser or point adjustment problem.

If spark is strong, check for flooded spark plugs. If flooded, hold throttle wide open when cranking to clear out the excess fuel.

If spark is strong and plugs are dry, try a shot of starting fluid or gasoline in the carburetor. If it starts briefly, you have a fuel shortage, suspect carburetor adjustments, improper installation or assembly.

If it does not try to start with added fuel and the spark is strong, make sure the plug wires/firing order is right. Check the distributor timing, it should be between 10* ATDC and 10* BTDC when cranking.

Thanks for your reply, you specify there might be
a bad cable... which one?

If the cable from the solenoid to the starter is partly shorted to the frame, it could cause the solenoid to smoke. If the starter is cranking at a normal speed, I don't think you need to worry about the cable making the solenoid overheat.

Installed new solenoid but there is no spark
at coil or plugs. Checked coil with volt meter with key on and reads 6-8 volts.Checked cable and it
seems ok. Do not have a timing light, how can I set
points/timing just to get it running in order
to move the car.
Thanks
Ron

First, focus on getting spark. The points need to open up a certain amount, as stated in your tuneup specs, like .030. This means 30/thousandths of an inch. Turn the engine by hand, or "bump" it with the starter to get the points on the high point of the lobe in the distributor. Set the point gap to specifications, make sure that they open and close with a little spark in between them when the car is cranked. When that is set right, check for spark again. If it starts!! If spark, but no start, check your firing order and engine timing.

1968 Ford Mustang Convertible Chassis / Suspension & Steering Leaking Happens always Always

There is a pretty significant leak of power steering fluid that looks to be coming from my hydraulic control valve. I do not believe I have hit anything and the unit looks to only be a couple years old. It almost looks like a seal has blown. Any suggestions on what may be the problem?

Hi,
I take it that you have a leak from the Power Steering Gear box. I have seen many seals blown on these boxes. Usually the root cause is too much clearance in the internal bushings, buliding too much pressure on the externals seal and either dislodging it or pushing fluid past it. Rarely will simply reinstalling the seal solve the problem long term.
Dale

No, it is not the Power Steering box that is leaking. I am pretty sure it is the hydraulic control valve located underneath the box or a hose has split that is connected to the valve. It looks as if all of the fluid has leaked out after looking at it last night.

Is this the control for the convertible top?
Dale

No.
It is the Hydraulic control valve for the Power steering.

I have worked under a 68 Mustang, but do not recall the specifics on the steering. Typical is a belt-driven pump on the engine, 2 hoses to the steering gear box. The steering column comes into the top of the gearbox and the pitman arm out the bottom. I have seen some older sytems where the valving (and p/s motor) is seperate from the box (as I understand you). I recommend having a hydraulics shop look at your unit, they should have the parts and expertice needed to make a permanent fix for you.
Best wishes

1967 Ford Mustang Convertible Windows / Glass   

My passenger door window is loose and slants forward. How do I adjust the window so that the window will roll up and down level? The window does roll up and down easily. I'm guessing there's a bolt or two (or a stop) that can be accessed? FYI, the channel weather stripping that is located behind the vent window and makes it's way through the door is old, cracked, and torn. I have new channel stripping that will be replacing the old.

INSTALLATION
This is how to instal the window

Place the glass and channel in the door with the front edge of the glass in the front run and the rollers on the channel in the window rear guide.

Place the channel guide bracket on the glass channel and tighten the mounting screws.

Loosely install the window upper front stop and the rear upper stop bracket.

Align the vent window frame to the windshield pillar, then tighten the nuts and set screw locknuts.

Adjust the window rear guide for the correct tilt to fit the window, then tighten the bolts and set screw locknut.

Adjust the upper front and rear to stops, then tighten the bolts to 8-13 ft. lbs.

Place the lock pillar seal on the door and install the screws.

Install the weathershield and trim panel on the door after this is done.

I hope this helps

this is for the window alone but al the information is pertainent to the adjustment that you need to do on the door
Place some weatherseal tape in the frame and channel, then lubricate with Ru-Glyde lubricant or its equivalent.

Install the frame and channel on the glass.

Install the screws to retaining the frame and channel together.

Place the glass and channel in the door with the front edge of the glass in the front run and the rollers on the channel in the window rear guide.

Place the channel guide bracket on the glass channel and tighten the mounting screws.

Loosely install the window upper front stop and the rear upper stop bracket.

Align the vent window frame to the windshield pillar, then tighten the nuts and set screw locknuts.

Adjust the window rear guide for the correct tilt to fit the window, then tighten the bolts and set screw locknut.

Adjust the upper front and rear to stops, then tighten the bolts to 8-13 ft. lbs.

Place the lock pillar seal on the door and install the screws.

Install the weathershield and trim panel on the door.

1966 Ford Mustang Convertible Chassis / Suspension & Steering Vibration When driving Always

I have a vibration like the tire and wheel are out of alignment at about 45 mph. I have done the following. in order>.
replace the idler arm. (it was worn) no change
balanced the tires and wheels. no change
new tires and balance. no change
new stile steel wheels and balance. no change
balance the tires and wheels while on the car. some improvement, but it is still there.
New brake drums and rebalance of tires and wheel with a standard spin balancer. still have the problem.
The ball joints have been checked and are okay. The wheel bearings are good.
The car is an older restoration. It looks good and is a good driver. It has no rust body or frames.
Thank you for any advice you can give me.

Best regards,

Gary Huber

From Gary. By the way the vibration is in the steering wheel not in the seat.

had the front end aligned

you seem to have covered quite a bit one thing that may be a concern is the u-joints
vibration have a way of transferring itself to other locations in the car
hopr this helps

wouldn't you feel the ujoint in the seat? This problem will shake the front end enough to see the fender hop.

I'll check tonight and let you know.

ok I will check on a few things also

I checked the u joints and they are okay. No slop. Also the shocks seem good. No bounce back when I jump on the bumper after I took it for a ride. I did notice that it seemed to be worse after I hit a bump or go through a bend in the road. It seems that it is not that solid as my newer cars, but I don't know if that is normal for the 66 mustang.

Thanks again,

Gary

hello
I think you should get your car on a lift and check the car with the wheels in movement and pay close attention to your drive shaft it may be dented bent or cracked and somehow out of balance again make sure there is no play in the u-joint or clamps
sometimes it can only be seen when in motion

I'll have it checked and if this is the problem you will be getting the payment. Thank you again.

Ok that sounds great
macconeck

Hello,

I've re-opened this question at the customer's request.

Mark,
Site Admin.

were you able to check on the drive shaft

Yes, I took the car to a frame and front end shop. The drive shaft is not the problem. There was a tie rod that was loose and needed replacement and although they said it was needed, they did not recommend floor pan replacement due to the cost of aligining the frame and all, but that this is the main problem.

Thank you for your attempt though.

ok I am glad you finally traced it down
and you are welcome

macconeck

1966 Ford Mustang Convertible Chassis / Suspension & Steering Making Noise When driving When cold

Now that it is cold out here in California, my front-end shocks are squeaking. If you push down on the bumper it squeaks. Can they be lubed?

Chances are that it is a bushing that is squeaking, rather than the shocks themselves. If you can find the right bushing, you can replace it (better)or lube it (temporary). Or you can give a general lubrication to the front suspension. Use SILICONE lubricant (compatible with rubber.)

1966 Ford Mustang Convertible Electrical / Lighting Systems  When starting 

289 Engine.

I have a problem with the battery getting charged. I have replaced the battery, alternator and the voltage regulator. If the battery is charged the engine will start and the car will run fine for as long as I want to drive it. After starting the engine 4 or 5 times the battery goes completely dead. I had the new battery tested and it came out just fine. The battery doesn't drain over time it just drains when the car is started alot because its not getting recharged. What could this possibly be? Could it have anything to do with the Relay for the starter?

Thanks for your help!

You need to use a voltmeter and see if the alternator is charging at all. If you don't have a voltmeter, turn on the headlights and start the car. Do the headlights get brighter? If no, it time to check the wiring. Make sure the body ground is good and check the wiring at the alternator (make sure you have power from alt. to battery positive) and voltage regular. Let me know what you find.

Also, many chain autoparts stores will check the charging system with a tester free of charge.

Thank you for the reply. The alternator has been checked as well and there where no problems with it.
So you think I should start with the Body ground? How would I check that with a voltage meter?

Thanks for your help.

I will see if I can find a wiring diagram for you to troubleshoot from.

I put a voltage meter on the car this morning and this is my findings...

With the car turned off

I measured the voltage at the battery and got a reading of 12.8 volts.

I measured the voltage on the wiring harness for the voltage regulator and got the same reading of 12.8 volts. This was the main wire coming from the alternator.

I also measured the amps being drawn from the battery with the key off and got a reading of 0 so I don't believe anything is drawning amps and draining the battery.


With the car started.

I measured the voltage at the battery and got a reading of 12.5 volts.

I measured the output from the alternator (the red lead coming out) and got a reading of 21.3 volts.




Could this possibly lead me to believe that the voltage regulator is bad? Its brand new but I also know that they can go bad very easy.

What do you think of these new findings? Is there a way I can test the voltage regulator to see if its bad or not?

It seems the voltage regulator is 'turning the alternator on'. Where does the red wire go? Follow the red wire and determine why 'charging' voltage is not reaching the battery. The red wire is the larger hot wire, correct? It should go to the battery or starter/relay. Let me know what you find and we'll go from there.

The red wire from the Alternator goes to the Voltage Regulator. From there, the wires coming from the Voltage Regulator go back to what I believe is the starter relay. The wires from the voltage regulator and the battery are both connected on the same side of the starter relay. I put my voltage meter up to that wire going into the starter relay, coming from the voltage regulator, and I get the same reading as the battery (12.5) when the car is running.

Yes I think they do connect to the voltage regulator. So far I haven't been able to locate test procedures for the voltage regulator itself. It is entirely possible you got a bad regulator. Call the parts stores and see if they can test the regulator off your car.

Here is a wiring diagram for the circuit- copy and paste into your address bar-

http://autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/[redacted] d801c3e69.gif

I changed out the voltage regulator and it didn't fix the problem. I think you may have been on the right track with problems with the wiring. I think I have changed out everything else that could be problematic.

Did the link I gave match your charging system?

1966 Ford Mustang Convertible Drive Train / Driveline   

I have a 66 mustang with a 200 6 cilinder auto. The Transmision will not enguage untill it warms up for about 5 minutes. I changed the filter and fluid and it worked fine for about 3 months and problem came back. does belts need adjusting? change filter and fluid again? Car has 120,000 miles all original.

Hello
sounds like you need a new torque converter I woundnt go adjusting any bands on a tranny unless it was nessesary and you knew what you were doing.
Heavychevy

Just doing a follow up to check on the progrees of your mustang.
Heavychevy

I will change the torque converter, filter, fluid.
I am in minnesota, the car is stil in storage.


The manual recommends having bands adjusted after 100,000 miles. Its sounds like this has nothing to do with it. What will adjusting bands accomplish? I bet it would be hard to find sombody that has experience with this.

Adjusting the bands just keeps the gears shifting tightly more or less. If you found an older mechanic thats been one for a long time they would surely know what to do and would probly enjoy working on it. If you need anything give me a buzz and if you are satisfied please click on the ok button. Have a nice day.
Heavychevy

+

Adjusting the bands just keeps the gears shifting tightly more or less. If you found an older mechanic thats been one for a long time they would surely know what to do and would probly enjoy working on it. If you need anything give me a buzz and if you are satisfied please click on the ok button. Have a nice day.
Heavychevy

1966 Ford Mustang Convertible Engine   

I have a 1966 Mustang Convertible (289 engine). The car starts great. However, every once in a while, the car will start to sputter while driving and then will completely stall. Any suggestions on the cause? Thank you very kindly. -bryant

First if you are running points in your 'stang, can I recommend upgrading to a Pertronix Electronic conversion. A simple, deprndable unit it fits inside the stock distributor.Costs about $75 and gives you more power, economy and better starts and operating.(hotter spark) And no points to change!
Do a basic tune if it has not been done recently.
The stalling is probably a fuel related issue, specifically a filter, which should be addressed during a tuneup.
Bruce

1965 Ford Mustang Convertible Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens sometimes No pattern

Sorry, I got disconnected. Back to my question. I recently installed a stoplight switch and now the lights sometimes stay on and I have to disconnect the switch to get them off. Sometimes messing with the brake and clutch pedals, the lights go off. Have I installed the switch wrong, and if so, what do I need to do to fix the problem?

Check to see if you can adjust the location of the switch/plunger to correct it. Let me know.

I can't seem to stabilize the switch so it does slip. I can't find anyone who knows the correct way to install all the washers.It can only be put on one way, but the washers can be put on several ways, none which have worked so far.

Is there any "pronged washers"? If there are I would think the one would go on the "main body of the switch" side and one would go on the other side of the "bracket" with the prongs facing each other. Only thing I could think of at this time. Only other thing I could think of is to try and find a Chiltons manual, or drop by your friendly neighbourhood ford dealer and ask an "older" mechanic or see if the parts department has and pictures in their parts lists or even a manual there. Sorry I can't be of anymore help. You can, if you wish, release this question for someone else here and see if they know.

This switch is always closed when out of the car. When installed, it depends on the upward pressure of the pedal to turn it off. (open the circuit) Make sure that the pedal link fits correctly between the two projections so it can press against the switch head as you release the brakes. Also, don't overlook the possibility of a bad new switch. Highly unlikely, but possible. Again, check the fit. Find another Ford to see how it goes in. This should do it. I just replaced one on a Taurus. The brake lights stayed on constantly. Tyler

1965 Ford Mustang Convertible All Part Groups   

My 65 mustang has a power top, and used to work fine, but recently (after sitting in the up position for a year or so) won't go down without helping in manually, however it goes up without any problems. Where should I start? I'm in the process of selling the car and I at least want to be able to tell the buyer what might be wrong so she can have an idea of what it might cost (if it's not a quick fix that I can do before I sell it). THANKS!

First thing to check is the fluid in the reservoir, which is attached to the pump in thr front of the trunk.Also ensure the top linkage points are all lubricated, best done when top 1/2 way up.If the switch itself works, your best bet is low fluid in the reservoir. Working it up and down several times, helps 'loosen' up the linkage too.Should be easy fix!
But then , one might wonder why its low fluid? Leak at the rams beside rear seat are sometimes an issue.Parts avail. online from resto parts sellers and/or ebay?

Thanks for the quick reply! I will take a look for the fluid res. Is it easy to add fluid, or do I need to bleed the system in the some way like one would with brakes? ALso, this is a novice question, but what type of fluid do I buy? Do I just go down to my local auto parts stort and look for hydraulic fluid?
THANKS!!

Its been a while since I owned a ragtop from that era! I remember that the top system on a 65 Galaxy used atf (auto transmission fluid)In my fleet of cars the only 65 is a Galaxy HTP

1965 Ford Mustang Convertible Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

1964 1/2 Mustang manual shift gearbox how do I fit a brake booster as the clutch shaft fouls the body of the booster was told that could work by fitting spacers to push the booster away from the firewall have tried this but still touches the clutch rod?

I am assuming that you are using an aftermarket PB booster or a Fairlane type one. The correct diameter one should clear. Check with your Mustang resto supplier and see if they have an offset clutch actuation rod.Or you can heat, and slightly offset yours.There should be enough adjustment to accomplish this.I do not like too many spacers under the booster, as I prefer to see booster rigid.
My 65 has PS and I am doing a 4 spd conversion, so I have an idea what you are going through.

If you have an incorrect larger than diameter PB booster, the rod will have to be modified.

Bruce-can you tell me the correct diameter of the PB so that it will fit with no mods to the clutch rod? The PB came with a disc conversion kit supplied by Mustangs Unlimited and made by SSBC(?).When these cars were new were they offered with discs at the front as an option? and if so was a PB fitted then?Did you get my reply yesterday-computer was playing up!By the way I am in the south of France so lack of people with hands on expertise over here!!! Paul

We sell SSBC at work and there is a different PB booster for Automatic Trans Cars and 4 speed cars. The automatic cars get a 9" single diaphram booster, the standard cars got a dual diaphram booster that was 7" dia for reasons that are obvious to you now. First year disc brakes on most North American cars was mid 60's
South France? I am West Coast Canada.

Thanks Bruce will check up on the O/D of the PB when I get to the workshop tommorrow(tuesday)-cannot escape American cars at the moment,this morning was working on a 1931 V12 Cadillac,got to get the brakes relined quick as the owner wants to takt it on the Trans Alpes rally in 2 weeks time!Ovber here when we say mountains we mean it!I was in Montreal a few years ago checking on a couple of cars for a client we stayed at a ski resort about 20 odd miles to the north and when I asked where were the mountains on which you skied they proudly pointedto a couple of wooded humps in the distant??I live in the very beginning of the Alpes where they imerge from the Mediterrane Sea and just a few miles further north they get to 6000 ft plus above sea leval-so brakes we need!!!My Email address is '[redacted] ' if you will let me have yours I will let you know how the brake problem works out-could be usefull for both of us! Paul

Paul, here on the West Coast we have very serious mountains also. I agreee with you about Montreal! They are a bunch of pussys!
I have a friend who lives in the Rocky mountains above the 8000 ft level and she has snow 8 months per year. Last month the snow level was about 12 feet deep, beside her cabin.She has to walk about 1 mile to her truck which is 4WD.Ava also heats the place with wood.
31 V12 Caddy? I would have hard time driving it across town!Any photos?
[redacted]

Thanks-no luck the PB is 7inch and still fouls!!!or the moment client giving up the idea so I have got to put back all the piping etc which I stripped out.Will prepare some photos of the type of cars I work on for sending Email hopefully this weekend.Paul

1965 Ford Mustang Convertible Ignition System   

I have a 65 - 289 - 4v. My ignition switch went bad so I purchased a new one. I am having an extremely difficult time installing the new one through the dash. The switch has a spring on it and a "spacer" slides over the front end of the switch. I cannot get the spring to compress enough so I can force it through the dash, slide the bezel on, and turn the switch 1/8 turn to lock it on, am I missing something?

Removal:
Insert the key and turn to ACC position.
With a stiff wire in the hole, depress the lockpin and rotate the cylinder counter-clockwise, then pull out the cylinder.

Press in on the rear of the switch and rotate the switch one-eighth turn counter-clockwise. Remove the bezel, switch, and spacer.
Remove the nut from the back of the switch. Remove the accessory and gauge feed wires from the accessory terminal. Pull the insulated plug from the rear of the switch.
Install in the reverse of above.

Does this sequence differ from what you are experiencing?

Roger

No Roger, that is exactly the same procedure I used. The problem is, the switch has a spring on it and you have to compress the spring by forcing the switch against the inside of the dash so that you can lock the bezel on from the outside. It is practically impossible to reach under the dash with one hand, line up the switch with the detents on the bezel and then lock it it. I thought maybe their was some trick of the trade you pros used to get around this.

Last time I wanted to compress one of those springs, I compressed it in a bench vise, installed a nylon zap strap (one of those wire ties often used bundling electrical wires) then carefully turning spring 90 degrees (I use needle nose pliers) then attach another strap. Usually 3-4 are enough to temporarily hold spring compressed. Assemble as you have been doing. When you are satisfied the lock is in correct position, then cut the nylon straps. I have a factory '65 Ford shop manual if you require more info.
Bruce

1965 Ford Mustang Convertible Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have just purchased a Haneline instrument cluster for my 65 Mustang ragtop 289 - 4v. On the back of my original cluster is mounted an instrument voltage regulator with two leads (spade lugs) connected. What do I do with the two leads after I install the Hanelines. Do I tape them off and pretend they were never there or do I splice them together? Additionally, what do I do with the two leades into the alternator warning light, I assume that you would tape them together but I want to be absolutely certain before I frey something.
Thanks,
Rich

Rich,

See if the following link will get you going. Just copy and paste it into the address bar of the browser you use. Let me know your thoughts....

http://www.mustangandfords.com/howto/30647_haneline_six_dial_instrument_panel/index.html

Roger

Hey Roger, I appreciate the heads up but I have been to this site before. I know how to and have already wired the Haineline cluster, but it doesn't tell you what to do about the leads I described when you cut them, that's my only hold up to complete the installation. Thanks anyway Roger.
Rich

I saw on the site that you would not use all the leads. It stated to tie back and tape unused leads to prevent them from shorting to each other or contacting the car's metal.

Let me think some more...

Roger

I understand that Roger, but say for instance, the alternator warning light. When you cut the two leads going into the warning, I'd almost bet that you would have to splice those leads together as they are part and parcel a part of the main power circuit. But I'll be damned if I can confirm it any where.
Rich

I know that some charging systems will not even work unless the light bulb for charging system warning is good. If the bulb is removed, or burned out the alternator will not come on line. The resistance of the bulb filament plays a critical part. If this is the case with your car and you connect the wires together you will create a dead short as the circuit will go directly to ground without having powered a voltage consumer.

I'm trying to get locked on here. 1965 is a ways back for my memory. I'm old enough, but am I still smart enough?

Roger

I cannot see any reason you'd need the cluster regulator, tape off. On the charge light circuit, I'd guess you will need this. Temporarily unhook the circuit and start the engine. Measure the voltage at the battery to see if it charges while disonnected. What happens?

They say a car is only original once, is the "upgrade" really worth it?

Well, I have owned this baby since 1967 and I just wanted to perk it up a little bit. Nothing I am doing or already have done can't be "undone". Every original part is safely tucked away. I do not particularly care about "showing" the car, I drive it and enjoy it. And some of these percs make it that much more enjoyable. If there is something wrong with that, so be it! At my age and with the number of year4s I have owned the vehick and taken care of it, my concioence is not bothered

Sorry if I come across as rude. Great job hanging on to the car for this long.

I wish I could offer more technical advice but I can't trust wiring diagrams from those years. They just tend to be unaccurate so I recommend testing which should prove what needs to be done without complete reassembly.

There is nothing wrong with the perc, I was just curious.

By the way, great stategy on doing undoable upgrades.

No harm, no foul! I tend to agree with you, I see no need for the instrument regulator either. As for the warning light, the only reason for it's existence, as I see it, was a cheap way for Ford to save on gauges and also act as an exciter for the alternator. The new voltage meter going on line, I believe, would also serve as an exciter for the alternator, so I would cut the light out of the circuit and splice the two leads. Sound right to you?

I'm not familiar with the new wiring. Is the circuit to alternator wired through wired through the regulator?