Ford Windstar

2007 Ford Windstar Ignition System Won't Start When starting When cold

2003 windstar, all lights flash rapidly with loud click and engine does not turn over when starting. Electrical or starter problem?

security system turn key to run position walk away for 30 to 45 minutes till lights stop system will reset itself

did this help you

2005 Ford Windstar Electrical / Lighting Systems Making Noise When driving Always

my door sensor indicates a door is open. No door is open and my doors will not lock.

Hello, The switch for this feature is part of or mounted on the door latch. Do your interior lights stay on also?

Ford has a scanner that will communicate with the body computer to identify which door is causing the false door ajar alert. The part will likely be a dealer item. You may need only a switch but it can also be that the latch assembly is the only way it is serviced.

Without the use of a scanner one would have to disconnect the door latch wiring connector one at a time until the alert goes away. Often the driver's door latch is at fault simply because the driver's door is opened/closed more than the other doors.

How do you want to proceed?,

Roger

Yes, the interior lights stay on

All right. Then a door latch switch has broken and the closing of the door latch does not actuate the switch OFF.

There is a slight chance that a wire has grounded out by wearing through the insulation. If this were the case the problem would be effected by driving the vehicle on a rough road that shakes the wiring harness. Not a frequent cause but can be found once in awhile if the switch proves good.

Roger

2003 Ford Windstar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

MY OVERDRIVE LIGHT KEEPS BLINKING. IT STOPS WHEN I TURN OFF THE VAN THEN TURN IT BACK ON. WHAT IS THE PROBLEM,

The overdrive light will blink when a problem when the computer sees a problem. You need to have the trouble codes checked with a scanner. Some parts stores do this free of charge, Autozone, Parts America/Advance, etc. They may or may not be able to pull a code that helps point to your problem.

Is there any sequence of flashes from the light or is it a continual flash? If there is a sequence let me know how many times it flashes.

THE LIGHT WILL FLASH WHEN I DO ABOVE 60 MPH AND IT WILL KEEP FLASHING UNTIL I TURN OFF THE VAN AND RESTART THEN IT STOPS AND DRIVES FINE BUT WHEN IT BLINKS THE CAR SHIFTS KINDA HARD.

In this case you'll have to have the codes scanned, to see what the problem is.

2003 Ford Windstar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I was troubleshooting a power window problem with the drivers side of my car and mixed the wires up reinstalling them into the switch. Need to know the wire colors from front to back on the power window switch located on the driver door.

Also before I did this I heard a clicking noise in front of the fuse box every time I tried to get the window to come down. Is there a stuck relay some where?

where is your answer

checking my shop manual....why did you remove the individual wires from the plugs?

Because I was stupid and thought I could swap the wires in the plug to see if the switch was bad by hooking the wires to the passengers side plug. When I do stuff like this I usally draw a diagram before I start of where the wires were orinaly so I can put them back. This time I thought I would remember so I did not bother. My little girl interupted me while I was working and then I became preoccupied fixing her bike. When I returned to the van I forgot where I was.

The shop manual does not give a clear picture of where all the wires are routed, just a general schematic. If I were you, I wouls go over to an auto wrecker and look at another windstar. Even if you have to buy the plug, with the wires attached, you will at least have the order for the wires. If you want to look at a wiring diagram, of the entire power window setup, try to pick up a copy of a Haynes Windstar Shop Manual ($12-14) at your local auto parts place,. They have wiring diagrams for your Ford in the last chapter. Not only will it help you reattach the wires, but fix the original problem.

Thanks

If you had an ohm metter it would be easy to figure out just a little time consuming.
An easy way to figure out which wires go to which window than which switch is using a simple 9v battery touch it to the wires and see which window slightly moves dont do it for long and you might have to replace a fuse a couple times. Its not recommended but I have seen it done just make sure you know what you doing before you do it. Its a way to do it without spending to much money but other wise like mentioned above a replacement for reference is best a manual evan better. but as for as it being color coated probly not it will usually show a wiring diagram. Hope you get it strighted out.

I think I have what you are looking for.

Be right back.

It seems there are two connectors, an 8 and 6 wire connector.

Right below this text is the connector, as you look at the connector the locking tab is on TOP of the connector (same for both the 8 and 6 wire connectors)-

^^^^^
4 3 2 1
8 7 6 5

1. WH/YE
2. LB/BK
3. BN/YE
4. RD/LG
5. TN/LB
6. BK
7. BK/OG
8. PK


^^^
3 2 1
6 5 4

1. YE/LB
2. LG/YE
3. BN
4. YE/BK
5. LB/OG
6. BN/YE

If this is to confusing leave your email address and I'll send a diagram.

Let me know if this is what you were looking for.

Also, did your testing reveal results for your original problem?

You were exactly right on the colors and it is an eight wire connector. So I hooked the wires up like you described and none of the windows work. All I get is a loud clicking in the drivers door when I press the passenger window both up and down from the drivers window switch. None of the other windows work including the rear hatch side windows. Thanks for your help. What do I do next?

Danny

These windows don't function from the master switch OR their dedicated switch?

Also, is this the original problem you had, or did it get worse?

It is worse because none of the windows work now. Before all the windows worked except for the drivers window and when you tried use it you would get a clicking noise from a metal box thay is forward of the fuse box. Now since I hooked the wires up like you told me I just get a clicking noise in the drivers door when I hit the passengers window from the master contorl on the drivers door. No windows work. Not even the passenger from the passengers switch or the rear windows.

I will recheck the diagram to make sure I gave the right wire designations.

1. White/Yellow (pwer window pass. front up/down)

2. LightBlue/Black (Acces. relay)

3. Brown/Yellow (drivers pwr window switch to module, 'down' signal)

4. Red/LightGreen (one touch down function)

5. Tan/LightBlue (power window motor, right)

6. Black (ground)

7. Black/Orange (drive pwr window switch to module, sends 'up' signal)

8. Pink (Acces. relay)

If you are wondering, 2 & 8 do have the same description.

And the connector will have the locking connector on the TOP as You look at the connector--

4321
8765

At this point you need to check fuses, start with fuse 106 (30amp) & fuse 113 (30amp) in the battery junction box.

The fuses were good so rechecked all the wires and did not have them in the right sequence. After I placed them where they belonged all the windows operated as advertised except for the drivers. It went down and would not go back up. Took the door panel off and jumpered the pink and Black/Orange and the window went up. I am going to buy a new switch on Monday and replace it. Thanks for all your help I could not have done it with out your assistance.

Douglas you are the heat, thanks again.

Danny

Great work!

Give me an update on Monday.

Sorry I have been busy so I had trouble getting to the Ford dealer and ordering a switch. when I finally got it my problem was solved. Windows all work as advertised. thanks again for your help it cost me $95.00 with tax to repair my windows. thanks for saving me money.

Danny

2003 Ford Windstar Drive Train / Driveline   

I'm pretty sure my transmission went on my van(117,000 miles). I had absolutely no problems with the van, and after making a turn, the van started making a revving sound. I then lost all power and the van would not move. It starts up fine with no lights on, but when you put it in drive or reverse it does absolutely nothing.

The first thing I would check is the front CV axles.They sonetimes wear out and break.Usually forewarned by a clicking noise on corners.
If they are ok, next check the fluid.Brown black or low could spell trouble. If low, try adding fluid. If substantially low, check for major leaks.
An alternative to a rebuilt trans would be a used one from an auto wrecker.Sometimes they get smashed up with rebuilt or good trans.Used ones usually come with warranty.

2003 Ford Windstar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

When I first start the van the normal bells & whistles go off for thier sequence but then after about 5-10 minutes this beeping sound comes on and it is always the same sound. It beeps in a series of 5 times and each series has 4 beeps for a total of twenty beeps for the duration. The same thing happens later (1 hour - 2 hours)while you are driving then stops, this all happens without any icons showing on the dash screen. I took it to Schultz Ford in Nanuet NY where they were going to charge me $100.00 per hour until they could locate the problem, you can see where that is not going to happen. They had it for an hour and found nothing, this problem is not going away anytime soon, it has been like this for about a year without change. I really hope that you can help or at least try. Thank you Jim Reiley

I'll try to track down the problem for you. Where is the beeping sound coming from?

Did the dealer find any chassis/body trouble codes?

Also do all warning lights (seat belt, air bag, abs, etc) come on during initial key on, indicating each warning bulb is not inoperative?

2002 Ford Windstar Drive Train / Driveline   

trans is ax4n with 3.8 engin.trans had no reverse.dissassembled .found reverse clutchpack seal torn.rebuilt trans.now trans shifts great till operateing temp is reached .then reverse acts up.either a rev bang cond.or stip then engagement.air checked rev clutch assy .good checked feed tube is ok
.changed vb spacer platesometimes engages okhot.if it was a roller clutch id feel it in first also.if it was servo id have a harsh engagement .any answers?

It sounds like you are a transmission tech. I'd suggest joining the professional rebuilders association called 'ATRA'. I've found with transmissions it is better to have advice from several sources.

2002 Ford Windstar Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

ABS and brake light come on after engine is warmed up. There have been some oddities with the electrical system, like interior lights not coming on when door opens, etc. Could this be related? Is there a way to tell whether the ABS system is shut down or should I assume that light on means no ABS? Thanks

Hello, Please check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder first.

If the fluid level is low both the Brake and ABS lights will come on.

When the ABS light is on you will not have ABS function when the brakes are applied. You would have normal brakes as if the vehicle were not equiped with ABS at all.

It is possible for these lights to come on seperately if only the ABS has a problem.

The lights are not likely related to the ABS/brake light warning.

Does it make a difference which door is opened that the lights do not come on?

Please advise,

Roger

hello -- not sure whether my responses have been getting through... I added a little fluid and we'll see if that helps. thanks.

Hi, I did receive the response about adding fluid.

It may be time to inspect the front brake pads for wear. The best sign of brake pad wear is having to add fluid.

Roger

2002 Ford Windstar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Console power points not working. Verified all fuses in passenger compartment fuse panel are satisfactory.

Give me more detail as to what the console power points are that you are referring to.
would you be talking about the power-operated doors pedals etc?
What size engine do you have?
when did this problem start?

The power points I'm referring to are the ones used to power external devices i.e. plug in adapters to power laptops, gaming systems. None of them are working. Perhaps using incorrect verbage; power centers? There are three of these in our windstar.

Well It may be called differently by us all.
I refer to them as cigarette lighter plugins, I gues in todays age and time the term can be even a battery charger input also.
They are not normally fed through relays so if you do not have power to them it is posible that the main wire is not getting a good connection somehow and it is taking place before the power points.
Depending on which engine you have
there will be another fuse box under your hood that also contains relays.
check these fuses for continuity.
What size engine do you have in your van

I believe I have to locate the fuse panel in the engine compartment; this is the problem I'm having! Can't seem to locate. I believe the engine is a 3.3L

Look in the 14290 fuse box's under the hood or in the sj-box down near the lower a-post on the drivers side, but it should be under the hood.
For a better detail you can look in the owners manual, that should make it clearer

2001 Ford Windstar Brake System  When driving No pattern

I've got 141,000 on my 01 Windstar and recently the ABS and BRAKE warning lights have started coming on together at random times while driving. If I pull over and turn the van off they disappear and sometimes don't come back on for several days. But sometimes, they come right back on immediately. I've lived on a rough gravel road for about 4 years now. Could that have anything to do with the probelm? I've never had the rotors replaced but they've been machined 2-3 times. The pads are only a year or so old. They have about 40-50 thousand miles on them.

Have you checked the brake fluid level? At the mileage you have the brake pads could of worn enough to allow the caliper piston to be further out in the resting position, thereby holding more fluid and reducing the amount in the resevoir. This may not be the problem, but should be the starting point.

I've checked the fluid level. It's a little over half full. If the fluid isn't all the way full could bumps in the road cause the van to think there isn't enough fluid? Would having low fluid cause the lights to come on?

Yes to both questions. Top the fluid off and see if there is a change.

2001 Ford Windstar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

For a few months we would have sporadic issues with the drivers side window not working correctly. Sometimes it would not roll up or down for a while then it would start working. Now it's stuck in the down position and we can't get it to roll up. When I push the up button I do hear a clicking noise coming from either behind the dash or the engine compartment (maybe a relay or something). So I assume by pushing the button and hearing something react that it's not the switch??? That being said nothing happens with the window moving. I also just noticed that the back right quarter window is not working either. You push the button for that and I also hear a noise from the area of the window (not from the behind the dash or engine). I check the fuses for that equipment (according to the owners manual) and they are not blown.

Okay, open the drivers door and wiggle the rubber loom that runs from the drivers door to the body WHILE the switch is activated to roll up the window. If this causes the window to move the wires are bad inside the loom.

If not you will need to perform more in depth testing voltage testing. Do you have a multimeter? I'll send instructions if you leave your email address.

I will try that tomorrow morning. My email address is [redacted] . Thank you.

Okay, what did you find?

I tried it and it didn't work. I even tried it while slowly opening and closing the door.

You could still have a broken wire but troubleshooting will need to be performed. Email coming soon, 'Ford Windstar' in subject line.

2001 Ford Windstar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

brake fluid says its low, it isn't, traction control says its not working, engine light is on, driver side headlight only works on brights, several working lights have been tested to confirm working. There seems to be a short in the system, this all happened about a month ago. Thank you all for your help.

Hello, All these things happened at the same moment? Have you had the diagnosic codes checked? Are all fuses good?

Please advise,

Roger

Hi Roger, Thanks for taking time for me. I haven't had the codes checked yet, I guess I didn't think the codes would point to non emission control things. I had the van into sears a few weeks back and they said the brakes were fine and the faulty brake light could be the problem the traction control not working light being on. The lower light beam (passenger side) not working is the most concern at this point, this is picked up and displayed by the computer and several lights have been tested...low beam doesn't work and high beam does. So what is my plan of attack here, would the computer read codes for these things? even the front headlight? Thanks for your time.

Justin

The computer would not display a fault code for the headlight issue. Have you checked the fuses? Relays?

The low brake fluid warning light is likely the reason for the traction control system warning. There is a fluid level switch in the brake master cylinder that may have failed or is stuck. See if unplugging this switch clears the traction control warning. If it does, replace the switch.

Do you need a wiring diagram for the headlights? Do you have a guide to the fuse locations and what system they protect?

Roger

Thanks, I'll check into the brake switch and see if it's sticking and no I don't have a wiring diagram for the headlights or a guide to the fuse locations and what system they protect, If you could help me with this it would be appreciated.

Justin

Justin, I'll get some information together for you. May I have your email address please?

Roger

Yeah Roger, its [redacted] .

Thanks, Justin

Thanks, I'll get going on this.

Roger

Email is on the way. If not in your inbox, check spam/junk mail as well.

Notice that fuse #12 under ther hood powers both low and hi beams for the left headlight. On the wiring diagram you will find a Front Electronic Module (Below the left side of the dash) provides the grond for each of the headlights regardless of beam selected.

Check continuity of the headlight connector wires to the module. If no wiring continuity trouble is found this module could be at fault.

Roger

2000 Ford Windstar Fuel System   

I have a 2000 windstar sel with a 3.8 liter V6. I have a check engine light on. I checked the codes and it says the o2 sensor after the cat on the passenger side. However another code says the fuel temperature sensore is "out of range". Would replacing the o2 sensor fix the fuel temperature issue? Or is that a seperate issue? And if so, what is causing it?

No. Replacing the o2 sensor will only cause you to spend undo money. The problem is that your Fuel Temp sensor is allowing too much fuel to run thru the engine and is fouling out the o2 sensor. You need to replace both and it should take care of your problems. Good Luck. AL

2000 Ford Windstar All Part Groups Malfunction Happens always Always

power door locks do not work radio/cd player switch between modes: when radio is set it will jump to CD player and visa versa reverse sensor does not work

Hello, Have you checked all of your fuses? Did all of these things occur at the same time?

Roger

No I haven't checked the fuses. The problems happen all the time. In addition the door lock/unlock buttons do not work on the driver and the front passenger door. Every once in awhile all the interior lights will flash. Today the rear passenger power door started opening and would not stay closed. I had to shut off the power door switch.

Look in any cigar lighter or accessory power socket for a foreign metal object that could have caused a short.

Check all fuses, especially body fuses, accessory, etc.

What did you find?

Roger

Hi, Anything new here? Do you still want help?

Roger

2000 Ford Windstar Windows / Glass   

Drivers side sliding door hangs up and will only move about a 1/2". Have been told to look at a Gas Door interlock. Have now parts diagram to know what to look for. I would be happy to dismantle the mechanism and leave it off but can't get the door open to look at it. Any ideas

Always a tough dilemma, when the door will not open! Having it part open helps.All you can do is start dismantling the plastic inner panels, starting with the armrest and any switches.The plastic panels might have a screw or two, but mostly accessable by gentle prying on the edge.
Yes I know it will be difficult and yes there is a possibility to crack a panel.
But the reality is you have little choice.
If a panel does crack or break,it is possible to repair with glue.Also there are many in wreckers the same color as yours and if you are lucky you might find a cheap inner panel.
Good luck!

2000 Ford Windstar Heating / Cooling System   

My wife's windstar is equipped with a front & rear heating system. When the controls are in the on position both front & rear blowers seem to operate normally, however no heat is emitted in the front passenger compartment. There is a pronounced, repetitive mechanical knocking or clicking noise coming from somewhere inside the front dash assembly that only stops when we turn the heater controls to the off position. Is there an armature component that may have failed? Any other ideas?

Okay, by no heat are you saying there is no airflow OR that the airflow is cold?

Air-flow is just cold

Any suggestions?

Yes, this sounds like the blend air door actuator is broken or binding. If you need repair instructions/diagrams leave your email address.

My email address is [redacted]

When can I expect to receive the email instructions?

Sorry for the delay, I'm working on the instructions now. Having a bit of trouble loading the software. Shouldn't be much longer.

Thanks!

I sent a message.

2000 Ford Windstar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Total electrical system failure. The problems were coming and going, from windows that work sometimes but not others, ABS light stays on, interior lights come on while driving, side door will not work, to now total electrical failure. It is dead, connected battery charger and the front headlight came on dimly without the switch being turned on, the radio used to cut itself off after opening the door, not now, etc

Remove the battery and have it tested. Most chain parts stores offer free testing. I believe Autozone and Advance Auto offer free testing & charging (although you could charge your own).

Inspect and clean/replace as necessary; the battery terminals, cables, and engine and chassis grounds. The cables can look good but have corrosion 'bleed down' the cables.

Use caution, including eye protection when working around/with the battery. This warning is especially crucial when working around a battery that has discharged/charging, as this is when the explosive gas (easily ignited with the smallest spark) is naturally released during the process.

The battery has been tested and it is fine. Besides I don't see how that would cause the issues leading up to the total failure. This has been going on for over a year.

Hello,

We need a good (charged) battery to see if there's a problem after cleaning/repairing the battery terminals, cables and grounds.

1999 Ford Windstar Drive Train / Driveline  When driving 

When getting up to highway speed the O/D light begins flashing. The vehicle feels and drives correctly at this time. Is the over drive flashing an indication on a problem and if so what could the problem be. thanks for your technical advice. erik.

Hi,
When the overdrive light flashes, the computer has seen a problem with the transmission, or one of its sensors. This should be checked out if you want the transmission running in optimum condition. Some situations will lead to a premature failure. Also pay close attention to your speedometer, the sensors fail frequently and will cause the light to flash.
Dale

1999 Ford Windstar All Part Groups Stalling Happens always When cold

When trying to start, sometimes won't turn over. If I try a few times, it will start but runs really really rough, and yesterday smelled strongly like exhaust. Almost died while driving home yesterday, and then died today about 30 seconds after I started it. After it dies, the check engine light, oil light, and battery light stay on. Checked oil and it is full. Help!

Is the engine light ever on while the car is running? If it is visit autozone or advance auto and have them check the computer trouble codes. Write down the code numbers and let us know which ones are present.

1999 Ford Windstar Electrical / Lighting Systems  When driving No pattern

The overdrive button flashes on the dash without me pressing the button on the gear shift.What causes this and should I have it attended to and the approximate cost? Also the motor icon came on at the same time and stays on.I have had this problem fixed 4 times at considerable cost- the last time was April 2005.Should I have it attended to?What causes this? Thanks.

Hi,
Your van is displaying these warnings to tell you that something is wrong in the powertrain (engine and transmission) control system. The engine light flashes when there is a problem with the engine/transmission control system. The overdrive light flashes when there is a problem with the transmission control system. It could be electrical or mechanical.

In your case, 2 lights at the same time point toward the transmission control system. It could be anything from a disconnected sensor to a faulty transmission.

Should you have it fixed? Many states now require the engine light to be OFF to pass the state inspection. If you are in such a state, have it serviced. You will need it within the year. If you care about your transmission, you should have it serviced, or at least checked. If it is an electrical problem it should be fixed as that will give you better service, better fuel economy and longer life and will cost $100-500. If it is a mechanical fault in the transmission, it will cost $1[redacted] ; you can get a AAA membership and wait to see how long it will last.

Best wishes in the New Year.

1999 Ford Windstar Electrical / Lighting Systems  Happens sometimes Always

the tail lights stay on most of the time, reverse light do not work, and turn signals lights work only in the front,power to the tail light relay at all the time. once in a while the light will go off .

Are the dash lights on at all times the tail lights are on?

Have any bulbs been changed recently?

no the only light on are the tail light, i unpluged turnsignal switch, brake light switch, and head light switch,instrument cluster and lights stay on.

If you have a bad bulb or bulb holder (IE a shorted codition) this can cause a variety of strange problems.

You said there is a relay for the tail lights, if there is a like relay around temporarily swap the relays in hopes of this being the problem.

Beyond this a scanner is needed to diagnose BCM codes. You could see if you can find a cheap Rear Electronic Module at a junkyard if you are desperately trying to avoid a trip to the dealer.

1999 Ford Windstar Drive Train / Driveline Failing When idling Always

my van while i was driving down the road just stopped pulling all of a sudden no noise or anything just like i had shifted into neutral. it won't move at all or do anything as far as trying to move in any gear forward or reverse. The overdrive light has been flashing. could this be the transmission control module or is it the transmission.

This is more likely to be an internal tranmsission failure. TCM failure usually leaves you default gears, often referred to as going into limp home mode. To confirm either way, there is no substitute for electrical diagnosis with a capable scan tool and line pressure checks. Many transmission shops offer free diagnosis- call ahead. Shop around for word of mouth recommendations for transmission repair facilities in your area.

1999 Ford Windstar Heating / Cooling System   

The temperature will not change from cold to hot.

Just to clarify, it is the heat inside the van will not change from cold to hot.
Please accept my apologies.
Bill

Hi, Does the van have front and rear heat and a/c?

Roger

front only

From the diagrams I see the actuators are vacuum operated. Inspect the vacuum lines under the hood. Some will have plastic tubing for part of the route. If you find a broken or disconnected line and repair it I believe the temp control will return to operation.

Your thoughts?

Roger

Are you releasing the question without any dialog? I'm trying to help you but instead of reply you are releasing the question.

If that is your desire I will not respond again. I had asked for your thoughts?

Thanks

Bill, Are you receiving my messages?

Please advise, I'd like to help you.

Roger

Yes, however I have checked the lines under the hood. Where is the acuator located so I can check the vacuum lines to it. Also, I am assuming that the slider control for the temperature control is automatic climate control because it has a small circuit board behind it which I have replaced with a used one.

The actuator for mode and temp are each mounted on the HVAC case.

I'll try a different data base this afternoon for help. The data base I have at home is lacking in pictures.

Roger

Do you mean the actuator which controls the low and high RPM of the motor? If so, I found one of the levers unhooked which I reconnected however, it still did not change the temperature from cold to hot for the heat. Mine has a single actuator with two rods that run to each side of the plenum. Is this what you are talking about?

No Bill I wasn't referring to anything controlling the motor speed.

Vacuum actuators will have a linkage that connects them to the doors they are to control. Did you find anything unusual about where the lever you found reconnected? My concern is the door the lever connects to may be broken. I hope not.

Roger

Due to the time, it's late tonight, tomorrow morning I will check under the dash where the different valves controlling the doors are and see if any are broken. I will let you know.
Just one question: is there something that opens and closes a valve for the heat under the dash? If so, where would this be located?
Bill

I found an exploded view of the HVAC case and i would like to email or fax it to you for your review.

The drawing shows an electronic door actuator motor, a heater air damper door, eighteen components of the syatem.

Where may I send this to? I'll need to print it and then scan to email.

Roger

Here is my fax [redacted] Thanks.

I had a time getting this picture to print with any quality. I'll try sending the fax to you.

Roger

Did the fax come through?

Roger

Bill, Does the air flow change from a/c vents to the floor outlet for the heater? But you get no heat?

Have you verified the engine coolant level is full when cold and when hot?

My goodness, I had a mental block or something....hadn't considered the heater core may not have coolant flow! I'm so sorry if I missed it here.

Please advise,

Roger

Roger:
The problem ended up being the door was broken that the little electric motor operated so the motor was just turning and the door was not opening. It looks like it is quite a job to change the door so I am trying to JP weld something onto the door so the motor can close and open it again. I will let you know how I make out with it. Thanks and if you have any suggestions, I would be more than willing to hear some.
Bill

I remember saying "My concern is the door the lever connects to may be broken. I hope not."

JB Weld can handle the 155 degree air of a heater but I have never tried that.

I have in the past drilled the door and used a hand made bracket and sheet metal screws or pop rivets to make a temp fix.

If we have more to cover on this subject please advise. If I have earned your business please click on OK to finish up.

Roger

Have I answered your question? If yes, please click on OK to finish up. If not, please advise.

Roger

1999 Ford Windstar Fuel System   

WHEN DRIVING THE CAR ENGINE STOPS LIKE IT RUNS OUT OF GAS IT HAPPENS ONLY ONCE IN AWHILE WHEN TRYING TO START AGAIN HAVE TO WAIT FOR A COUPLE OF MINUTES THEN IT STARTS AGAIN AND RUNS GREAT UNTIL IT STOPS AGAIN ONLY ONCE IN AWHILE NOT VERY OFTEN THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM SEEMS FINE ON TAKEING IT TO THE DEALER THE COMPUTOR TEST EVERTHING OK . THEY SAY TO WAIT UNTIL IT BREAKS DOWN OR HAPPENS MORE OFTEN THEN MAYBE THEY CAN FINF THE PROBLEM . I AM WORRIED IT WILL STOP IN A BAD POSTION WERE I CAN NOT PULL OVER TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD TO WAIT TO START IT AGAIN ANY IDEAS

Not all problems are caused by computers.Sometimes an erractic operating fuel pump that has bad connections can cause the symptoms you describe.Also moisture in the gas can do the same. The first thing you can do is add a good quality, strong fuel system cleaner/dryer to the tank and let it work for a few days. The gas companys reformulate their fuels for winter driving and the transition time causes its fair share of problems.

I WILL TRY THE FUEL CLEANER THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS ARE FINE TO THE FUEL PUMP ANY OTHER IDEAS THANKS

When my Grand Prix was running erraticly, it turned out to be the electrical connector on the pump, IN the tank.The plug connection was pretty much burned off as was the insulation for about 1" of the wiring. Considering that all happened inside the gas tank, had me quite concerned! No codes were sent at that time either...symptoms were the same as yours too.
When it repeats the 'runnung out of gas' scenario, try checking the fuel pressure at the Shrader Valve near the throttle body. It looks like a tire valve stem, with a cap.

1999 Ford Windstar Heating / Cooling System   

1999 Ford Windstar

Temperature Controls do not work.
a) The blower blows air
b) The control switches from floor, vents and defrost
c) The temperature does not get hotter or cooler when you slide the control, I replaced the control and the Temp does not change with the new control
d) The compressor does not come on, although the LED light comes on when you press A/C on the Control
e) The A/C system is not low on freon, I jumped the low pressure switch and it still does not come on.

troubles that may be related. At the same time the A/C quit working, the odometer and speedometer also quit working.

I checked the fuses and they all seem to be good. I swapped some of the relays and they seem to be good.

A friend said that he thought the Body Control Module might be bad.

Do you have any insight oh, mighty knowledable one?

Do you get any check engine light while the engine is running?

The lack of temperature change is usually a result of a plugged heater core OR failure of the air temp door.

What I want you to do is visit Autozone or Advance Auto and have the trouble codes checked. Let me know which alphanumeric (P0300, P0401, P1492, etc) codes they find. Notes- They offer this service free of charge. They may tell you they cannot test if the check engine light is NOT On, tell them to test anyways as there ARE codes that do not turn on the light which can be read with an OBD2 code reader.

You may need to have the vehicle scanned with a professional scanner that can access body codes (Body control/GEM/Insrument-Cluster/Etc modules). We will do all we can without a professional scan.

No the heater core is not plugged and the air temp door works.

Go to AutoZone??? I can get there half witted advice for free. The Autozone guys here will tell you their code reader is almost worthless.

If that is the best you can do I need a refund.

P1460 Wide open throttle A/C cut-out circuit inoperative

P1461 A/C pressure sensor circuit high input

P1462 A/C pressure sensor circuit low input

Pxxxx Vehicle Speed Sensor

P1463 A/C pressure sensor insufficient pressure change

P1464 A/C Demand out of self-test range

P1469 Low A/C cycling period

The Autozone scanner will access 'P' (Powertrain Control Module) codes, including the ones listed above, even though their clerks are unaware of what their tool can and cannot do.

Trouble codes can offer a short-cut while troubleshooting.

Do you have a multimeter to test circuits?

Any update? I can help if you let me know what you have for test equipment.

I went to AutoZone, they ran the test and none of the codes you mentioned came up. The codes that did come up were PO401, PO171 and PO174

I went to autozone like you said, they ran the code check.

None of the codes were any that you mentioned.

The codes that came up were PO401, PO171, and PO174 that is it.

nothing to do with the A/C.

So far, I am not satisfied with this service, I'll give you one more shot at it and if you can't do any better than this then I want a refund.

Sounds alot like a short somewhere behind the insturement panel. I would personally reach up there a slightly pull on the wires and move them a bit and then try agian if not working I would then take apart and look at it.
Heavychevy

Yes your friend is on the right track I would also suggest that you replace the BCM as the code scanner will overshoot this as a bad component every time.
Each of the problems you listewd are commanded through the Body control module.
when you are experiencing these problems, the BCM replacement is a shure fix.
I hope this helps

Thanks, My friend has worked on lots of Fords. I've fixed lots of A/C's. I've ordered a new BCM, I think it will fix the problem(s), It will take several days to get it because it is coming from PA. I don't think the other tech's that All-Parts connected me with know what a BCM is.

I'll let you know if the BCM fixes the problem.

sounds like a winner

1999 Ford Windstar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Overdrive manual switch does not work and a light in lower right corner of inst. panel stays on, could be related I do not know.

Hello
Try checking the fuses. You can check the connections to the switch by gently pulling it off the gear shift (gently) and checking to see if wires are loose or corroded. If not you can trace the wires back down the gear shift and so on (this will be a difficult job). But to me sounds as if there is a short somewhere.
Heavychevy

,,

Just doing a follow up to check on the progress on your windstar.
Heavychevy

1999 Ford Windstar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Overdrive switch does not work also a light in lower right corner of inst. panel stays on, may be connected I don't know.

Please further describle the light that is on in the lower corner of the inst. panel?

Almost looks like a light bulb upside down with an exclamation mark inside it.

The upside down light bulb indicates a bulb is out.

Check fuse 14 (10 amp) in the fuse box. Is the fuse okay?

I checked fuse 14 and it is fine

Okay, the next step is test for voltage at the switch. A common multimeter is needed for further testing ($10-15 at discount stores for a cheap but adequate digital multimeter).

Place negative lead of DC voltmeter to a Known GOOD ground and the other to the harness connector (disconnected for test purposes) RD/YE wire. Results should approach battery voltage??

Next test the switch (unplugged for test) with an ohm-meter. Activate the switch should alternatre between a closed and open circuit.

By the way fuse 14 previously mentioned, is in the Central Junction Box, just to be sure we had the same fuse.

Hopefully, at this point, just the switch is bad. Ford calls the switch a Transmission Control (TC) switch.

-To remove the switch for testing first pop the round cover off the switch to gain access.

1999 Ford Windstar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

No brake lights, car wont shift out of park. Lights are good, all fuses are good.

Have a look at the shifter interlock switch wiring'They are prone to have connection problems. The brake light might be unrelated...possibly the brake light switch (at the top of the pedal, under the dash.)
Check the brake light switch first (for functioning and connection) as it might affect the interlock function. Does owner manual say "First apply brake pedal when Shifting out of Park?" If so, I strongly suspect brake switch....

1999 Ford Windstar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

need a wiring schematic for the license plate lights. Wiring is different than displayed in my Haynes manual. 1999 Ford Windstar

What color is yours? Mine says brown for power, black for ground.It is also hooked into the 'park'light circuit for taillights which is also brown.

nope... coming out of the tag lights I have a white with black stripe, and a black. It goes into a plug which has a green and a gray with red stripe. the gray with red stripe is the same as going into the tail lights. the green is not ground... if you connect one of the leads from the tag light to the gray w/red wire and ground the other lead... it will light... no matter the position of the light switch... the gray w/red is always hot. (tail lights operate normally)

Hello, Please tell me your email address. I'll scan the diagram and send it to you.

Roger

[redacted]

Please check your inbox, spam/junk mail folders for Subject: Windstar Exterior Lights.

Roger

Will the diagram I sent help?

Let me know,

Roger

Yes... I think it will work fine. Thanks.

My problem was that the green wire to the license plate light was not completing the circuit... as a temp fix, I bypassed the green wire and linked it to one of the tailights... plate lights work properly now. since I couldn't find anything wrong between the plate light and the rear computer module... I guess this was a good option.

1998 Ford Windstar Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction Happens always Always

The battery light comes on when I start the car and stays on. I can reverse out of my garage but cannot turn the steering wheel.

I am willing to bet that you have lost your accessory belt that runs the alternator and the power steering pump. Open the hood and check it out. Any other questions just let me know.. AL

1998 Ford Windstar Engine  Happens always Always

last night while parked(and running)on a slightly sloped driveway, the engine started running a little rough and the engine light began flashing. I moved the vehicle to level ground and the engine seemed to smoothe out but the light went to a steady on. the engine seems to be running fine now but the light is staying on. I heard several years ago that you could short out the port where they plug in the diagnostic computer and the lights would blink in a pattern to indicate the problem. I think I tried it on a Buick Regal and blew a fuse. I don't think I want to try it on the Windstar.

1996 and newer require a scanner to check codes. Some 94-95 gm cars required a scanner (maybe your buick was of this vintage?).

Autozone parts stores will check the codes for free. Which is great because some shops charge a small fortune. There may be other parts stores that offer free code checks, call ahead.

1998 Ford Windstar Chassis / Suspension & Steering Sticking When driving Always

I have 126,000 miles on a '98 Windstar (mostly highway miles). For the past 30,000 when turning either left or right the steering wheel meets some kind of stiff resistence. When it does break thru this resistence, I get a grinding feeling in the steering wheel. It does not do this sitting still, only when under motion. It's worse in cold weather, but is always there to some degree in warm weather. I've been told strut bushings and rack&pinion by my barber shop mechanics. What is your opinion? Thank you, DLM.

Hi;
Sounds like rack and pinion to me. Struts would most likely keep causing the problem at all temperatures. Eazy test to do is on a cold start have someone start the vehicle. Open up the hood, and as they turn the steering wheel for you see if you can feel the grinding noise on top of the strut tower. Good Luck Les.

1998 Ford Windstar Engine Won't Start  

I need help changing the alternator - how do you loosen the belt to attach the new alternator. I know there is a tension pulley I just don't know how to loosen it Help

There is one of 2 methods to loosen the tensioner pulley. One uses a 1/2 inch breaker bar or ratchet placed thru the square drive or the other requires placing a wrench on the nut to the tensioner pulley. Either way it only takes a few minutes to change the Belt. Let me know if you need more info. AL

Hi Al
Which bolt on tension pulley do you loosen is it the one that holds the pully on itself or the one thats beneath it and in which direction do you turn it? Towards you or away I am afraid I will strip the bolt

Before you put a wrench on the bolt (the one that is on the pulley) look at the area between the bolt that attaches the tensioner to the engine and the bolt that holds the pulley in place. If there is no square hole for a ratchet then place your wrench on the bolt for the pulley. It wont take much to move the pulley an allow for slack. When replacing the new belt make sure the belt properly tracks on all the pulleys or it will fail.. and within about a week. Let me know. AL
PS set the wrench or ratchet to pull towards the front bumper to release slack.

Did you have any luck with the Belt?? Let me know. AL

1998 Ford Windstar Engine Stalling When shifting Always

My windstar is stalling when I shift it into reverse or drive. It idles fine when in park or neutral. I have already replaced the IAC. What else could it be?

first of all you need to phisically check the vacume line to the trans to make sure it is plugged up correctly
Then Try unplugging the speedometer sensor in the tail housing of the transmission and putting it into gear.
If this does not fix your problem, try unplugging the electrical connector on the side of the transmission close to the bell housing. If your lock-up converter is malfunctioning, this procedure will isolate the problem.

1998 Ford Windstar Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving When warm 

3.8L 115000mi. O.D. light start blinking when hot, after about 10 summertime miles. Transmission shifts hard when this happens. Changed all the trans fluid and filter, no improvement. No OBD2 trouble codes are being logged, even while O.D. light is blinking. Changed both IMRCs to fix engine light blinking problem, but no effect on transmission problem.

Does the speedometer stop working or flicker during this time?

If you stop and turn the engine off then start again will it drive okay for a few miles?

No, the speedometer always works okay. Yes, if you turn it off and back on, it will be okay for a few more miles.

Since the computer resets, the problem is electrical. Ford has several different ways to store codes and electrical errors, you may need to get a scanner that will read more than OBDII codes.

There may be a bulletin on this problem. I'll check tomorrow and get back to you.

1998 Ford Windstar Heating / Cooling System Leaking When stopped Always

leaking anti-freeze from the rear of the van under the driverside wheelwell from a stainless steel hose going into a block thanks kevin c

the stailess line seems to come all the way from the front of the van. it has a factory rubber hose spliced into it, right before it goes into the block where it's leaking, is there some sort of heater core up in near the rear wheelwell? it has rear cooling/heater control, i will wait for an e-mail at [redacted] thank you kevin c.

Your van has a rear heater in it and to get the heat to the rear, it uses 2 long hose/pipe assemblies to get to the rear heater core. You will need to determine the exact place of the leak, core, hose, line, and then re;air/replace the necessary pieces. The dealer will sell direct replacement parts, or you can improvise.

1998 Ford Windstar Engine   

How diffcult is it to change a head gasket on the 1998 Windstar manfucatured date 6/97

Let me know which engine you have and I'll get back to you.

1998 Ford Windstar Engine   

The van will run fine for a while then the RPM,s drop to "0" no matter what speed I am doing, then it starts to slowly die down and can have the throttle to the floor and it goes no where and engine does not idle up, but backfires through the throttle body. All the lights come on and then it dies. It will not start on its own but starts right back up if jump started then while giving gas the RPS,s jump up and down from "0" to "3" when holding throttle steady. Then dies if not kept running at higher idle.

Hello, Have you tested or monitored the fuel pressure? What engine size please?

Roger

Has this car been fixed? Please update.

Thanks,

Roger

1998 Ford Windstar Fuel System   

My '98 Windstar 3.8l engine is not getting any gas to the cylinders, but there is fuel pressure at the fuel pressure inspection port. Since it will not start, I cannot check whether the fuel injectors are receiving their pulse from the PCM. Can anything other than the PCM be causing this problem. Before it stopped running, It would run well until the engine reached operating temperature, then it would develop a miss in one cylinder.

You can still check 'engine cranking' injector pulse with a noid light.

Also, check spark. Do you have spark? If cranking signal is missing at the PCM, the PCM will have no reason to fire the fuel injectors.

There is a spark and the engine will run if I inject ether into the throttle body

Okay, check to see if there is Key On positive voltage to the injectors. One end of test light or multimeter to a known good ground and the other end to injector electrical connector.

Also, do you have a code scanner to check trouble codes? If not most Autozone's will loan you one for a fully refundable deposit, call ahead.

I will try this in the morning. Thank you

1998 Ford Windstar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

While on a trip 3 months ago our overdrive light began blinking and transmission began to malfunction and we pulled over. The original transmission was blown and has just been replaced with a rebuilt one, but the overdrive light began blinking again on the way home from the garage. Now what do we do - obviously we will not drive it until this is resolved.

Does the trans have a warranty? Also check electrical connections on the transmission

1998 Ford Windstar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

The door ajar and interior light stays on when all doors are closed and the seat belt sound beeps while driving under 30 mph.

The overwhelming cause is the door latch, with the drivers door being the first to address. If you don't want to replace the latch try spraying liberally with WD-40 then open and close the door repeatedly, respray if necessary. Note the odor of the WD-40.

Let me know if this works and we'll continue as necessary.

Thanks for the reply but unfortunately it did not resolve the problem. Is there something else to check for?

Have you tried the other doors?

1998 Ford Windstar Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

I purchased a 1998 Ford Windstar Mini Van with a power steering problem. The power steering doesnt work, so until you get her rolling she steers like a 1960 truck without power steering. I have changed the steering pump and its still hard until it gets rolling. What do I need to do next. Thanks for your anticipated solution. Iyke.

Sounds like you require a power steering rack. This can be purchased rebuilt or
can be bought for a decent price from an auto dismantler (autowrecker)You will have to get a wheel alignment after you change it.

1998 Ford Windstar Drive Train / Driveline   

I have a 98 ford windstar the speedometer goes to 0 the moment the breaks are touched .the car shifts funny as well .the speed control has been replaced but have the same problem

The VSS Vehicle Speed Sensor on the speedometer cable might be the problem or the wiring attached to it,Check under the dash near the brake pedal. Also test the brake light switch. (Same area)

1998 Ford Windstar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I hooked up a 1100 watt stereo power amp and now the speed gauge and the odometer will not work and the fuse blows immediately when the key is turned on. Also the AC compressor will not run.

When you hook up anything with that amount of wattage, NEVER hook it to the fuse panel!
Use a large guage wire either directly to the battery with a fuse or use a HD relay in the circuit.A 10 guage or larger wire is required.
Also check the wiring carefully around the fuse box, as you might have damaged something.

1997 Ford Windstar Engine Overheating When driving No pattern

My car has been overheating for a couple weeks now. It seems to spike quickly and then go down when stopped or pulled over. Sometimes it wil spike and then go to normal for the rest of the day. Today was different I could barely drive 1 mile before I had to pull over. The radiator over flow still had water in it. I believe it is the themostat, but the car has 115,000 miles on it. Is there something else that could be causing this problem?

Your thermostate is always a good place to look.. while your at it replace the lower radiator hose. I have seen where the inner hose will seperate from the outer hose and collapse while driving.. once you stop the flow decreases and the hose looks normal.. since the problem is not consistent.. I would replace both.. and while your at it check your other hoses.. I am sure they are all the same age.. Let me know if I can be more help.

1997 Ford Windstar All Part Groups Making Noise When idling When cold

I have a 4 problems with a 3.8l 97 windstar v6 105,000 mi. meticulously maintained

1) ONLY when cold, I get a whine. It sounds more windy than mechanical but mechanical isn't out of the question. My first thought was a vacuum leak, but I don't see any vacuum stuff in the area. but it comes from the area of the pulleys and I can't quite tell which. It only lasts for a very few minutes. As SOON as the temp guage moves, it disappears and doesn't come back unless parked in the cold for 8 or 10 hours. It happens whether driving or idling and goes up in pitch with throttle whether idling or moving.

2) Typical ford crap - My "door ajar" light comes on sporadically which in turn leaves all interior lights on. Only way to stop it is to disconnect the fuse for interior lights for several hours. Then it resets and I won't have the prob again for a month. (I've checked all the switches, Find nothing questionable, they all check out on a meter)

3) Is it just me or are the spark plugs totally inaccessible. I can only see the wires for 2 plugs, and I can't see the coil from any angle.

4) last night on the highway, my speedometer went haywire. Over 30mph it bounced all over the meter. I set the cruise on what I knew was 60 (a friend was in a car behind me) and cruise held sixty perfectly, but the meter bounce between 80 and 150

1. Does the sound change at all if you turn the wheel? There is a chance the alternator is spinning hard, especially if the battery is getting weak or something is causing a drain on the battery. Be sure to check the belt tensioner, it is a common failure.

2. The most likely cause is still a switch. Unless you are able to test all of the switches when the problem was present, you cannot rule out the switches.

3. Have you tried getting to the spark plugs from underneath, through the wheel well area, etc?

4. Has the check engine light turned on? The speed sensor may be sending erronous readings causing the bounce. How long did the problem last? Did it go away as soon as you dropped back below 30 mph?

1) Turning the wheel has no effect at all. It's hard to nail down the prob because it goes away so fast. Can't be reproduced at will and never lasts more than 3 minutes (ALWAYS when cold). Not sure how to check the tensioner except that the tension seems correct.

2) Switch - I've been yanking switches since it started. Again, a sporadic problem with no apparent (or obvious)connection between the problem and any given switch. When it's happened, I've actually pulled the switches individually and worked them by hand and nothing changes.

3) Spark Plugs - this one is solved. I tried from underneath, but I can't reach them all, however, removing the window cowl gave me the play I needed, so I can do it now.

4) No engine light, however it's true that 30 is the magic number. When it hits 30, it takes a mad jump to 60 then bounces crazily between 60 and 120. Under 30 all is fine.

1996 Ford Windstar Chassis / Suspension & Steering  When braking Always

The abs kicks in when comming to a stop. This happens from about 5 mph to stop and it makes the truck almst serge foward. The abs light is not lit. Have removed the abs/brake fuse and the brakes work fine and stops stright. When fuse is pulled brake light and abs light come on.

Hello, The condition you describe sounds like a wheel speed sensor is indicating zero mph while the other wheel speed sensors indicate 5mph. The result is "read" by the computer to be a sliding wheel and anti-lock is activated to control the condition and allow the "sliding/locked wheel" to rotate 20 percent so that you can steer the vehicle.

I recommend a road test with a brake specialist using a scanner to monitor wheel speed sensor feedback. This will get you going in the right direction for a repair. A scanner (not a code reader) is the best tool for diagnosis here.

The brake and ABS lights coming on with the fuse pulled is normal.

Thoughts?,

Roger

1996 Ford Windstar Drive Train / Driveline   

transmission sometime slips,it down shifts up shifts hard and also it will sometimes stay in 2nd untill you let off the thottle then it will shift to 3rd

trans needs rebuilding or replaced

1996 Ford Windstar Engine   

1996 Windstar (3.8 liter) has an ongoing issue with slightly lower or fluctuating engine operating temp. The engine takes up to 30 minutes to heat in Winter and when fully warm and operating the gauge is only 1/3 way between cold and hot. The thermostat was replaced when new water pump was installed and coolant system flushed. This yielded no change in characteristics.

Have you determined if the gauge is reading properly? Does it actually take 30 minutes to get warm/hot air from the heater?

I should have mentioned that the heater was slow to warm up. This seems to limit the probability of the gauge or temp sending unit as potential culprits. I also considered the possibility of the thermostat not seating properly - but I don't see anything in 1996 Windstar forums that indicate a design flaw that would make this likely. Perhaps I should consider just installing a thermostat that opens at a higher temp?

This is almost always a problem with the thermostat. Yes, try another thermostat and let me know if the problem is gone.

OK - But before I replace it (it is not an easy job on this vehicle), is there anything else that can cause these symptoms? How likely is it that a new thermostat would fail and mimic the "old" thermostat which is only 1 year old?

Monitor the coolant temperature first. If the thermostat is opening before specified temp the thermostat is to blame, assuming the coolant level is okay.

Did the replacement thermostat ever work?

There was no perceptible change between the old thermostat and the new one.

Monitor the thermostat opening temperature and see if it is opening to soon, or possibly stuck open (or leaking) noted by constant radiator circulation.

If you'd like replacement instructions leave your email address so I can send them to you.

1996 Ford Windstar Engine   

Air cleaner and intake plenum accummulate engine oil. Engine stumbles sometimes on start-up for 10-20 seconds until engine, ( I assume) clears the oil. wise it runs fine. Thanks

Hello,

How long must the engine be off for the problem to appear?

Has the PCV valve been changed?

It has a 3.8L engine. Intake manifold gaskets were changed in 2002, also a new pcv & vacuum line to the plenum were installed. Later, another pcv was tried, but did not improve the problem.
The stumbling can occur overnight or after a quick trip to the store.

The oil sytem will need to be pressure or smoke tested to determine where the oil is passing.

The running condition is likely because the engine is trying to burn oil and gas.

Could the problem be related to the '98 Windstar problem of bad isolation bolts in the intake manifold?

1995 Ford Windstar Engine Sticking Happens sometimes 

I replaced the engine on my winstar about a year ago and just recently my engine is having a very hard time starting only when it rains. Some how water is getting in the engine. My mechanic can't explain it I really need some information on this problem.I feel that if this keeps happening i will need another engine. Would greatly Appreciate any info on this problem. Thank You

p.s It is a 3.8 engine

When it is not raining your mechanic (or someone) needs to use a spray bottle to wet individual components one by one. Which ever one will cause the no start to repeat is the problem.

Certainly he has ruled out secondary ignition (plug wires, etc)

1995 Ford Windstar Engine Won't Start When starting Always

It ran fine and then stalled while starting twice and ran until home, about 3 miles with one stumble after about 1/4 mile. It died while idling, wouldn't re-start for 2 cranks and then started on 2-3 cyl.
Next day it started immediately and it ran fine for a few minutes before being shut-off.
Next day wouldn't start, found reference to TPS being a potential problem since no Chk Eng light.
Auto-Zone has analyzer for 96 on, not 95 so got TPS and installed. It started right up and it ran fine for a minute before being shut-off.
Next day plugged the old TPS in and it started, but not immediately, and then died (proves it was the TPS, right?). Reinstalled the TPS and it won't start.
On my 81 Chev the "analyzer" plug could have 2 pins jumped and it would blink a code, anything like that for 95 Windstar? This a typical failure?
Haven't checked fuel, but awfully fast decline for filter plugging, fuel pressure regulator failure?
Crank position?

Check your fuel pressure. A dying pump can act just like that. Check for spark, a bad crank sensor will kill the spark, (and should also set a code, but not always.) I believe the same scanner used for 96 can be used for 95, but needs to be set to 96 settings. There is no paper clip tricks on the OBDII systems.
Dale

Since I wrote the question I checked the spark and there is none now. I used an inductive timing light on all 3 front cylinders and got nothing.
What's the best place to start checking for no spark?
Thanks

If there is no spark on 3 cylinders, likely you have a module or crank sensor problem. possibilities include bad computer, wiring problem, blown fuse, bad relay. Does your check engine light come on when you turn the key on. If so, check for power on the red/light green wire with the key on at the ignition coil. If ok, suspect the crank sensor or module.
If the check engine light does not come on, check your main relay, fuses and wiring to the computer.
Best wishes,
Dale

Although I couldn't find an OBD-II sticker, there are O2 sensors up & dnstream of the cat converters and you said it may work, I borrowed an analyzer and plugged it in. First got a com failure and then Passed. It started right up like nothing ever happened. It ran fine-slow, fast, cooled off, restarted, on the freeway, full throttle, idle- it still said Passed-No faults everytime.
What do I do now?
Take it to the dealer and be sure the right diagnostics are being run?
Drive it until it craps out again?

The answer to that question depends on 2 factors. #1 How much money do you want to spend? #2 Are you willing for the inconvenience of another break-down?

Remember also that it is humans working at the dealer. It is humanly inpossible to diagnose a past electrical problem if it is not failing now. (But there are a few tricks to try to make it fail while in hand)

Best wishes.

Both your points are 100% correct, but The question is this - do you have ANY doubt that the generic OBD-II tester from Auto-Zone can't find or read a fault that the dealer diagnoitics for a 95 can, since the 95 may not be 100% OBD-II compliant?
How much should just plugging it in at the dealer for a diagognostic check cost?

The dealer has some additional machines they can use to find problems that don't show up with a simple scan. Regarding price, you will need to call the local dealer to find what they say.
Dale

1995 Ford Windstar All Part Groups Stalling Happens sometimes When cold

The car starts ok but if I make a sharp turn to the left or right, when moving it from the parking space, it stalls. While I am driving and come to a sudden stop it stalls. Sometimes if I accelarate too hard it stalls. When the car is in "Park " and I move the steering wheel all the way to either left or right the RPM drops from 1000 to800/700 and sometimes it just drops all the way down and stalls. A rebuilt engine was installed and since then I have been dealing with this problem. Your help will be appreciated. Thank you for your time and knowledge.

There are 2 common problems that could cause this symptom. Both should be taken care of by the engine installer.

If the cam sensor is not synchronized properly, it can causes stalls at cold idle.

If the power steering pressure switch is not connected or is faulty, the engine computer will not know to compensate for the added load of the power steering.

Either problems could easily have been caused during the engine installation.

1995 Ford Windstar Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

loss of winshield wipers,electic windows and courtesy lights. once in a while they will all come on briefly and then quit

Sounds like a problem with the GEM module. Be sure to check the connectors for any problems.

where is the gem module located

Under the dash, you should be able to view a picture of one on Ebay. If not I should be able to provide a picture if you leave your email address.

By the way, never overlook fuses.

1995 Ford Windstar Drive Train / Driveline   

I just rebuilt the transmission on my windstar 3.8L but I still get a slight bump on the first to second transission as well as on the 3rd to second kit down operation. All other changes go smooth and normal. Any ideas or pointers what to look for?

Forgot to mention that car model is 1995

it's just one of those kind of ford transmissions. once you rebuild them, they will never be completely right. I had one that I got rebuilt 3 times and did the same thing as yours.

Bummer...thanks for your feedback

Its not unusual for rebuilt trans to shift firmer. The rebuilders often take measures to see that they do. They have shift kits that intentially do so. They do not want to come back for warranty.
A firmer shifting trans lasts longer because a smooth shift actually slips a little, and this minor slip wears out the clutches in the trans. A firmer shifting trans is engaging a bit quicker.You will quickly get used to it!

Can any adjustment be done in the ECU or other computer to compensate slightly? I have noticed that at higher RPM the shifting is smoother for 1->2

There is an adjustment on the throttle body (the part that replaces the carb on injected motors) I usually adjust when hooked up to scanner.
You might want to consider a $15 Haynes shop manulal. It will pay for itself the first time you use it!

1995 Ford Windstar Drive Train / Driveline   

Transmission shifts down hard, kills engine. I have 1995 Windstar van with 180,000 miles. Transmission seal near torque converter blew and the vehicle sat for 6 mo's. Just recently had transmission seals, bushings, filter, etc replaced. Got it back from shop, speedometer not working and shifts down hard. Took it back to the shop (they forgot to hook up speedo cable) They say it still shifts down hard, but has nothing to do with the work they performed and suggested there may be other problems deeper in the tranny that caused the seal to blow in the first place. They ran a diagnostics test, returning trouble code P1400, also the "check engine" light is on supposedly due to a mis-fire caused by running out of gas on the test drive.

Probably the bypass circuit on the transmission pump, is sticking or plugged.
Trans has to come out to replace front pump.I am suprised the trans lasted that long.Might consider a rebuilt unit instesd of patching up a high mileage unit,

So are you saying the IF the bypass circuit on the transmission is faulty or plugged that the pump must be replaced? And if so, what diagnostics codes should come up if I take this to a shop and have them test the transmission control unit?

Might not be any codes, as its hydraulic, not electronic.You do not have to replace trans, just if it is high mileage, do you want to replace/repair a few parts only to have something else fail on trans.?

I want to ask again... presuming your diagnosis is correct... and the bypass circuit is plugged or sticking, does this require the pump be replaced? In other words, how can I know whether or not your diagnosis is correct? Must I REPLACE the pump? Is there no way to UNPLUG or UNSTICK the circuit?

The front pump is rather cheap, but you could have it dismantled, inspected for wear and damage.Clean it if you like.Sometimes a thorough trans flush will help.And I do not mean dropping the pan/filter and changing the fluid.That method only replaces 3-4 qt of fluid.(the trans holds 10-12 qts.Removing the oil pan and changing the fluid in the pan would be like changing only 1 quart of oil in the engine.

1995 Ford Windstar Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have a buzzing from the fuse box. My wipers and side lock, as well as the driver window went haywire...even with the keys out of the car! I pulled a square relay that said BAT SAV under it and the buzzing stopped but the problens remain. Also seems to be tied in to the driver door opening and closing???

Check the wiring in the drivers door and where the wiring comes through the drivers door, look for a short or rub through here. Also unplug individual components inside the door, seeing if you can isolate one that will cause the problem to stop.

Where is the door ajar sensor? My door didn't start beeping when open until recently..(I bought it used)I have had the door panel off and things appear to be intact.

The sensors/switch is part of the latch assembly. These are very problematic, often a healthy dose of spray lubricant (WD-40) on the latch mechanism will remedy the problem.

Is there a wire assembly for this? I don't believe I saw one. Is this the same solution for the side door as well? It appears to be trying to lock itself now and I can hear it's motor going. It sound like it does if you lock the doors with it open and then close the door...you can hear the door lock afterwards.

I could sure use some suggestions...I'm about ready to shoot it. Anyone please feel free to call me @ [redacted] . thanks

There is a single wire for the door ajar/chime sensor on the door latch. The door lock solenoid has a plug that is seperate. Locate the solenoid(look on the side of the door just below the door latch for a large headed rivit,this will show the general location of the solenoid inside the door) and unplug it to see if any change comes about.The auto lock will obviously stop but check for the buzzing.By the way,is this vehicle equiped with an anti-therft alarm? These can cause many of the symptoms yo descibe.

No auto theft device. removed the door sensor wires and still have the buzzing. It is coming from the sensor that says "Bat Sav" under it. Buzzing comes when the door is closed and the key is out of the ignition.

Any suggestions? You can call me @ [redacted] .

Okay, is there any difference between having the battery saver relay removed (other than the sound going away)?

What exactly is going on with the door, lock, and wipers? You could try disconnecting the wipers, window, and lock (one at a time) for test purposes. It seems whatever is causing the problem will restore proper operation to the rest of the system once eliminated from the circuit.

When I remove the bat sav relay, the driver window will not work. Moments after the door is shut the side door lock motor starts locking..continuosly. I have tried disconnecting the battery all together and trying to "reset" whatever happened..no luck. Can a relay go bad? and can this be the problem? I am familiar with electricity and have an ohm meter..any specs on testing the relays?

I'm not talking about disconnecting the battery, I'm talking about disconnecting individual components on that circuit. If you can find one that stop the problem you have isolated which component is causing the problem.