Ford ZX2

2002 Ford ZX2 Drive Train / Driveline Overheating When repairing 

We have been told the pressure relief valve stuck and burnt up the conversion clutch on our 2002 ZX2 with an automatic transmission. What type of repair should be done to repair the damage so we don't have problems in the future. If this part was damaged by the heatm, would other parts of the transmission be damaged? Thanks for your assistance!

Hello, Are you talking about the "torque converter clutch" (TCC)?

Domestic and foreign cars both have problems when a TCC control solenoid gets stuck. The clutch will not release and the engine dies when you come to a stop unless you first shift to neutral.

The repair usually is to replace the TCC control solenoid, the trans filter and fluid. The clutch rarely is damaged. Once the pressure that is used to engage it is released, the clutch will release and is ready for the next event that calls for it to apply. The clutch is inside the torque converter, but it's control solenoid is inside the transmission pan.

It is not likely that you need anything but a new solenoid, filter and fluid and of course a pan gasket. There are always exceptions but I doubt any damage has occured to your transmission from "heat" or it would have been up-shifting improperly. (Slipping)

There is nothing you have done to cause this failure and I won't promise it will never repeat. Guard your wallet. Don't buy what you do not agree is needed or is not explained to be critical. Wear problems appear in the bottom of the trans pan as debris (metal and gear clutch plate material). If there is proof there you may have bigger issues with the transmission's condition. Most cases---NOT!

Roger

Thanks for your response. I am not sure if it is the TCC - the mechanic at the dealership where my car is at initially told me that something had broken off in my transmission before he told me the pressure relief valve stuck and burnt up the conversion clutch. The car never died - but the transmission started slipping strongly when starting forward from a complete stop and then when the car was in reverse. The yellow service engine light came on. Of course - the mechanic has started out with "Honey - your cute so don't worry about this" and I haven't got a lot of details. Is there a specific question I should ask to nail this down?
Thanks!

Are you actually speaking with the technician who is making the diagnosis or a service advisor?

What does "don't worry about this" mean? How foolish of this person to start with the "Honey" business. I resent it when a waitress calls me that. It tells me my name doesn't matter....

Will this be a warranty repair? Have you asked to speak with the service manager about this? Will Ford help you with the cost of repair as a good will effort to keep your business loyalty?

I can't think of a specific question to ask in this situation other than "Why should I have to pay for this"?

I really need to know the specific name of the failed part to get a better grip here. I'll restate to be careful not to blindly authorize repairs you have not been convinced are needed. Some guys do not like their expertise to be questioned. Too bad! It's their responsibility to show themselves trustworthy and to be honest. What is needed here is someone who will look you in the eye and take the time to answer your questions.

Don't stand for anything less. Cute ladies can get tough when need be.

Thoughts?,

Roger

2001 Ford ZX2 Ignition System Won't Start When starting No pattern

HAVE GOTTEN IT TO START ONCE THEN TURNED OFF AND WON'T START AGAIN.

You'll need to determine if you have spark. Without spark the first thing to check is the crankshaft position sensor.

If you have spark check to see if the fuel pump is running during initial key on and during engine cranking.

did check crankshaft sensor and replaced it there is no spark

Does the check engine light come on as it normally does when you turn the key on?

Never overlook fuses and battery connections/grounds/etc.

yes the light does come on properly. checked wires, fuses, grounds......etc

At this point you really need to check for diagnostic codes in the PCM. Autozone will loan you a code reader (for a fully refundable deposit) so you can check for stored codes. Call ahead to be sure your local Autozone loans their tool. Let me know what you find for codes.

2001 Ford ZX2 Ignition System   

Upon attempting to start the vehicle 2 weeks ago, the starter would click on, but not turn. The starter was changed and a week of driving went on without incident. A week following that, the car would not start at all and has not started since. The ignition will click, the fuel pump will turn on, but the the engine gets no where close to turning over. All the power comes on in the car, even the radio comes on at full power. The battery has been tested (good) and we have searched for loose cables (none). What may this be and how can I fix it?

Have you also confirmed no loose wires at the starter?

Is is possible you have a bad starter, there are many rebuilts out there with questionable quality.

You need to check for voltage at the large terminal of the starter. If you have that, check for voltage at the small wire to the starter (disconnected for testing)while attempting to start the engine. Let me know what you find or if you need addiotional instructions for this test.

Is there a relay to the starter or anything like that in some obscure position that ma keep it from starting? Also, there is a break in a spark plug wire. Obviously, it needs to be changed, but I was told it should start up regardless and then take care of that.

The spark plug wire is unlikely to have caused damage in the starting system.

If you would like the complete trouble shooting procedure leave your email address and I'll send instructions via an attachment. You will need to have a multimeter to perform most of the testing. Let me know if you have an automatic or standard transmission.

Its automatic. Please send to [redacted]

Please check your email- '2001 Ford' in the subject line.

2000 Ford ZX2 All Part Groups   

The Check Engine Light came on, so I took it into a shop to have them check it out. First they say its the O2 Sensor, and replace that. The next day light comes back on, so I take it back. Next they say it's the MAF Sensor, and replace that. Today the light came back on again. I sense a pattern here, are they just trying to screw me over by charging me for new parts that don't need to be fixed, or is it really possible that both these sensors are not functioning and need replacing, or could there be another underlying issue that is just throwing these sensors off and there is really don't need to be replace? Any advice would be helpful, cause I am out of money and I know they are just going to want to replace another part. Thanks

Sounds like to me the techs at your Ford dealer didn't follow the complete flow chart for the code they may have retrieved when diagnosing. The check engine light is a very common occurance on Ford vehicles. An O2 and MAF sensor can be a contributor to the problem but there is one that sticks out in my mind that some people very seldom check and thats' their gas cap. If you had failed to tighten the gas cap all the way, or the cap seal is not sealing correctly, air is entering the closed fuel system sending a possitive/negetive code to the ECM whitch in turn can cause the light to come on. Check with your local parts houses(Pep Boys, Auto Zone etc.) Some of these places are offering diagnostic scanning for free or at a nominal price. Rather than take their interpretation of what if any codes they may have retrieved, ask if they can supply you with or tell you where you can obtain the flow chart(s) for those codes. You will see that the parts that have already been replaced will most likely be at the head of the list. I used to tend to read the complete chart and alot of time found myself woring from the bottom up.
Good Luck,
Paul

2000 Ford ZX2 Fuel System   

service engine light came on seemed to have lack of power with ac on drove home 9 miles went to start to go out and it just turns over will not start my friend took fuel filter off no restrictions when you turn key on gas would pump for only a couple seconds is it my fuel pump?

Hi, No, it wouldn't be the fuel pump based on what you said. When the key is turned to on, the fuel pump gets power for approx. two seconds just to pressure up the fuel rail and injectors for engine start.

Do you have spark? What is the fuel pressure reading?

Do you have access to a code reader so that you can check the codes present that turned on the service engine soon light?

Roger

has spark did not check pressure

forgot to mention friend unhooked the battery and service engine light went out when we hooked it back up

Great, you have spark. Do you have a digital volt/ohm meter? We need to see if the injector is getting power and if it is firing when the engine is turned by the starter.

One side of the injector connector should have 12 volts dc when the key is on.

If the VIN shows the engine letter code to be a 3 the fuel pressure needs to be 31-38 psi. If the letter code is a P it should be 38-45 psi.

How are you doing for tools?

Roger

going to get tools may take a hour or so

All right, I'll check back later.

Roger

roger have 31 lbs fuel pressure 12.2 volts to injector

have 10.2 volts when engine is cranking on injector

Those tests are normal. Now, test the injector to see if it fires. Disconnect the injector and touch the meter leads to the two wire terminals inside the connector. Crank the engine. Does the meter show a voltage pulse?

Roger

it drops to 10.3 and stays steady

That is a wrong result. The voltage drops because the starter is drawing a lot of amps.

With the meter monitoring the terminals inside the disconnected connector for the injector and the key on there should not be a voltage reading at all because the computer will not provide ground for the injector to fire until the engine is cranking.

Does this make sense? The fuse must be good or you would not see power on one of the wires in the injector connector with the key on and the meter lead not touching the connector put to a ground on the car.

See if it tries to start on a shot of starting fluid? If so the injector is not firing and that may be a computer driver problem.

Roger

tried to fire

The engine tried to start on starting fluid? That means it would love to run, just needs fuel.

Since the computer has the job of pulsing ground in miliseconds to fire the injector and that is not happening You may want to try another computer. But first, be confident that the ground circuit from the injector to the computer connecter has continuity.

Roger

2000 Ford ZX2 Engine   

how to replace throttle positioning sensor

Which engine do you have?

You should have a 2.0 engine
The Thottle Position Sensor will be located on the side of the Throttle Body and it has a 3 prong conector coming out of it with 2 screws mounting it to the Thottle Body
Remove the scews and connector and replace it with the new one

thank you that is just what I needed to know

john

you are welcome

1999 Ford ZX2 Ignition System   

Have had to swap engines on this car. Getting no spark on any cylinders. Scan tool not kicking any codes. Have changed crankshaft postion sensor, cam shaft sensor, coil pack. Getting juice to coil pack. Had timing belt changed before installing new engine. Ran before swap.

If you changed these parts befor the swap and it ran before the swap You may want to check the computer ECM can you get the one from the location of the new engine?
taking notice that you cannot retrieve codes
it sounds like a PCM problem what engine size do you have
Hope this helps

changed parts from old engine to new after not starting. 2.0 dohc ford zetec engine. I have swapped out pcm back and forth from old engine to new. Same results.

check for power at the coil also check your ignition control module to make sure it is a clear voltage signal coming from the computer to the coil pack
you may also want to look at or recheck your fuses
It may be something simple and overlooked

have power @ coil. Ran continuity check on all wires from plugs to pcm. Checked out. Ran fuses again, ok. Ran a voltage test @ crankshaft postion sensor. Both sides reading 1.60 volts. Should one of them be negative? Again continuity check shows no breakage or shorting.

to properly check the ckp[crankshaft position sensor disconect the connector plug
with ignition on engine not running check for the batt voltage 12 volts
at the connector
connect a volt meter to the ckp and test for a/c voltage
the voltage should pulsate as you manually
rotate the crankshaft pulley with a large socket and breaker bar preferably

To check the camshaft position sensor
with ignition on engine not running again
back probe the connector signal wire +[dark green] and wire - [black/white]
the voltage should pulsate from 0 to 5.0 volts while you manually turn the engine

Checked voltage at ckp plug. 1.6 volts on both wires coming in. I've got a wiring problem I would guess. Where do these wires go besides pcm. Is that what is giving them their votlage or is it tied into some other system. My wiring diagram is really generic, based on escort more than zx2. Thanks for your help.

Give me a little time to get more details of that wiring system

If you could, let know about the wiring. I found out today on teamzx2 that when swapping out a auto for a manual tranny that I was supposed to swap out the ckp sensor housing. Seams like Ford made two different versions. Auto being like a cone, manual is flat. My guess is that my ckp is to far from flywheel to get any readings. Hafta pull tranny to swap housings. Bolts up behind flywheel. O-Boy

i DO NOT SEE A DIFFERENT SENSOR FOR THE AUTO AND MANUAL TRANS
i GET THE SAME PART NUMBER FOR BOTH
nO THE VOLTAGE SHOULD COME FROM THE PCM AND IT SHOULD BE AT 1.5 ON ONE WIRE TO GROUND
wHEN YOU ROTATE THE ENGINE DOES IT PULSATE OR MOVE UP AND DOWN THE SCALE?

The sensor is not different, the housing that it mounts in is different. I swapped out sensors housings yesterday and hope to have it back together today. The housing are about an 1 1/2" different in length holding the ckp farther away on a automatic. Last check I still had the voltage you stated on BOTH wires, no pulsation because ckp hasn't been positioned right to pick up signal. I'll let you know when the car is back together.

Ok let me know

Car started last night.

Wow I bet that was a great feeling
I am glad for you and I guess I learned some new info myself on the manual aut tranny take care

1998 Ford ZX2 Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start Happens always Always

The car seems to have power, but when turning to key all the way to starter position all power ceases. I hear a buzzing sound when trying the headlights and the hazards. Nothing else works and the interior light flickers. Any ideas?

Usually, when the power is low in battery, the acessories work somewhat, but the big load (starter) will not work.The first thing I would check is the state of the battery. There is also a date code on it, Most batteries last 5-7 years. The battery and alternator can be checked easily at any shop. But first we have to start it. If you have access to a battery charger, put it on overnight.That is better than a boost.While you are doing that, check the battery cables...are they tight.Clean?Important for current to flow, that it has good connections.If you follow the positive cable, you will find a relay, the starter relay...more connections to check.
When you finally get her going, with either a battery charge or a boost, there is a simple test you can do on the alternator, if it is accessable.On the rear of the alt. is a bearing in the middle, about 1 1/2 inches in diameter.If you can, touch this bearing with something made of metal such as the side of a screwdriver.Just be careful of moving parts and stay away from the wires! When the alternator is charging (a good one is about 13.5 volts) the bearing will have a noticable magnetic pull on the screwdriver.No pull=no charging.
Most Battery and Alternator problems happen this time of the year, as you are now using the rear defogger,heater and headlights much more in the winter.
Batteries are simple to change, if undecided on Brand, stick with a good brand name, with a warranty that will travel with you.IE:NAPA. I have also found that, as a rule of thumb, the heavy battery is better than a light cheap one(more plates inside=more power)If you get a cheap one from a discount place and it quits next year, when you are out of town-wheres that going to leave you?)
Alternators are a bit more involved to change, requiring a few tools. I recommend a good shop manual IE:Haynes.The $15 investment will pay off the first time you use it!
When you do change the alt. inspect the belt inside (the grooved area) Any cracks? If so, replace it.Keep the old one in the trunk. If the new one decides to 'leave' in a few years, the used one will get you out of a jam.
Hope this helps!
Bruce

1998 Ford ZX2 Engine   

Initially, while driving, car losing power, pressing accelerator, no pick up, engine finally stopped running, turns over as it should, just won't crank. Towed to home, car in garage, attempting repair. Holding accelerator pedal completely to floor before starting, car engine initially cranks, but does not run. Cranking only with key, no gas pedal, will not crank at all. Replaced various parts in fuel and air systems, plugs, wires, coil pack, etc. New battery and rebuilt alternator. Replaced camshaft position sensor, want to replace crankshaft position sensor, but am not sure what original looks like, and having difficult time finding on car. 2.0 DOHC Vetec engine. Need help with what else needs to be done to get car to start and run as it should.

Have you run a system scan on the computer to check for stored codes?
have you checked for a consistyent fuel pressure?
have you tested for 12 volts power at your fuel injectors?
have you tested for a signal 12 volt pulse to the ignition coil?
you made a statment [Cranking only with key, no gas pedal, will not crank at all]
Are you sure that this did not happen to be a coincident and maybe the batt was very weak at the time or going dead
Rule out the batt and alternator they have nothing to do with the car cranking or starting unless the batt is very weak or dead none of the componets you replaced have anything to do with the cranking system
that should be the first issue to deal with Have you tested your starter
Basically a good starter and batt will give you a cranking unless there is a bad connection to the starter or a malfunctioning solenoid, starter relay etc
Primarily look at your batt and starter for problems
I hope this helps

Replaced battery (new). Car started and ran, gave gas, bogged down as if to cut off, allowed idle for a bit (due to extended time not running), pressed accelerator, engine revs (happened before). Turned car off, ran scan, no codes found. Checked fuel pressure at injectors, key accessory turned on, not cranking, should be 50-85psi turned off, 25-38(?) running, having to initialize fuel pump 3 times to get to full pressure. Accel. pedal to floor, engine starts, doesnt run, no accel pedal, engine spins, doesnt start.

it sounds like you will have a problem with the fuel pressure regulator since you are repeatedly priming the pump to get the fuel pressure up to par
I would bet that the regulator is not functioning properly and it just is not sending a fault code to the computer

Sorry for the delayed update...Same story stands, replaced fuel pressure sensor, cant find fuel pressure regulator, car will only start with pedal all the way to floor, hesitates, shuts off...still have to "prime" the fuel pump

The fuel pressure regulator will have a fuel line going in on one side ans another connected to the opposite side
one side will be an L shaped hose connetor
It has a bracket attached iIt is mounted with 2 screw bolts
normally located on the topside of the engine moutet to the engine sometimes on the lower part passenger side