Ford 100E

2007 Ford 100E Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always

I have a 1997 ford ranger pickup and the heater control valve stays open when the selector is in any position except off. Then and only then does the vacuum to the valve get supplied to pull the valve closed....even when the a/c is on this is driving me nuts...the valve itself is not the problem it is something to do with the supply to the vacuum...I am not totally sure what the problem is....also the variant heat mix is not adjustable....could it be the control panel itself?

It does sound as if your problem may be at the control head.Being a '07 model,check with your local dealer.Unless you're over the 36k mileage,warranty should cover the problem.
Good Luck,
Paul

2007 Ford 100E Heating / Cooling System   

I have a 1978 Ford F-150 pickup and steam is rising from the dash. Are there replaceable hoses that are accessable?

If steam is rising from the dash, the heater core will likely need replacing. Use the following link for instructions on replacement- Copy and Paste the link into your Address Bar-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/0c/e9/5f/[redacted] d800ce95f.jsp

If you are fortunate enough to live in a climate where you don't need heat to warm the vehicle or defrost the windows, you can temporarily bypass the heater core. Looking underhood, you'll see two heater hoses going into the firewall. These are attached to the heater core. Remove the two hoses from the heater core. Now connect the hoses together, you'll need two good clamps and an inexpensive connector from the hardware store.

If you cannot perform heater core replacement right away, but need to drive the vehicle, you should temporarily bypass the heater core as it could get worse and become a hazard. Note- remember you will not have heat with the heater core bypassed & it is a hazard to use the vehicle with the heater core damaged.

Also, be sure to top of the coolant, as you are loosing some.

2007 Ford 100E Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have a 1997 Ford Taurus. The car alarm (which I believe is factory installed, as it is the car's own horn honking) goes off randomly when the car is parked and locked. How can I fix or disable this? The office management of the building where I work has sent one memo already to get this fixed, so I can not drive my car to the office until this is resolved. Thanks.

Hello,

This is a 97 or 07 model year?

It is a 1997 Ford Taurus.

For a 97 year it can be activated when the door ajar switch erronously indicates a door is ajar (or open). This is a common problem on these. Does the dome light ever come on while driving?

Or come on when it isn't commanded (opening a door) on?

No. The alarm only goes off randomly when we have parked the car and locked the doors. It goes off when my husband is at work in the middle of the day. Also, when I went to the library the other day, it was going off when I came back out of the building. It has never randomly gone off at home when the car is in the garage and the doors are unlocked.

Sorry, I mean the dome light and door ajar light... separate of the alarm... do they ever come on by themselves?

Here is some info on what will trigger the alarm. This is why I am wondering if the door ajar & dome light ever come on when they shouldn't... as this would also command the alarm On when the system was activated. A faulty door switch can activate the dome light (when the alarm in not active) or the alarm (when the alarm is active).

System Triggering

NOTE: Although the remote entry PANIC alarm is not associated with the monitoring of the vehicle, the user will frequently say that the theft system was triggered when actually the keyless entry remote transmitter PANIC button was inadvertently pressed. A panic alarm will not flash the THEFT indicator.



The alarm can be triggered by the following events if the system has been armed and has not been disarmed first:

Open any door, luggage compartment door or liftgate.
Open the hood (16612) (if the hood was open when the system was armed, it must be closed before it can trigger the alarm).
Dislodge the luggage compartment lock cylinder (opening with the key or remote entry transmitter will not cause the alarm to trigger).
When the system is triggered the perimeter alarm will operate as follows:

The remote anti-theft personality module will pulse the following outputs 250 ms ON and 450 ms OFF for two minutes 45 seconds (for North America):

low beam headlamps
parking lamps
horn
THEFT indicator

I understand you need to cover all possibilities, but we are not incompetent and I know we are not accidentally hitting the panic button on the remote entry system. If it happened once, maybe that would be a possibility, but it happens almost every day. The dome light does not come on unless the doors are opened. There is no indication that the car is detecting a door ajar even if all doors are closed tightly.

The information on the Panic button was from the service manual. I was sharing with you all the normal triggers, in no way implying incompetence.

System Activates Falsely:

-Loose hood tamper switch or its wiring.
-Trunk cylinder tamper switch open.
-Panic button damaged.

Above are common causes of false triggers. Check the hood and trunk switches to see if they are loose or damaged.

By switches, do you mean the metal latches that lock the trunk and hood into place? I checked those and they seem to be solid. The trunk and hood both close very securely.
Is there anyway to just disconnect the car alarm/panic button? We don't really need it.

The hood switch is on the left (drivers) fender apron. This is a plunger style switch or spring loaded switch. Open the hood and find its location. Hold the switch down which will simulate the hood being closed. Now have an assistant arm the alarm (remove key and lock doors). Now wiggle the switch without releasing it to see if you can get the alarm to go off. If it does replace the hood switch to repair OR unplug the hood switch for a work around.

I don't know how to disconnect the alarm as the (RAP) module also controls door locks.

I think if the Key is in any position other than lock the alarm will be off. If you can succesfully manipulate the hood switch, you can experiment to see if leaving the key in the ignition (say accessory position) will bypass the alarms function. If it does and you have a spare key... and don't forget to turn all accessories Off... this could be a work around.

A quicker test-

Locate the hood switch on the front fender. Close the hood and arm the alarm (remove the key and lock doors using the power locks OR the remote). Now slap the hood several times in the area of the hood switch seeing if you get the alarm to activate. If you do you have identified a faulty hood switch.

I am not really sure about leaving the Key in the accessory position, can't determine for sure if this would work.

If you cannot get the alarm to activate by slapping the hood, try the trunk. Let me know the results.

Hi,
I found the hood switch, closed the hood, armed the alarm and slapped on the hood in the location of the switch. Nothing happened. I opened the hood, held down the switch with my finger, armed the alarm with the remote and jostled the switch around. Again, nothing happened.
What should I try next? Thanks.

Also try pulling up slightly on the hood, near the switch. Not too far though, as too much would trigger it anyway.

Try wiggling the trunk also.

2007 Ford 100E Fuel System   

Ok so, one morning i started my 2002 f150 4.2l
went to work about 9miles away.My truck sat for about 45mins then when i went to start it, it just turned over but did not start,I thought i was the fuel pump that went out,I replaced it but still same problem.I replaced the fuse's & all spark plugs,STILL SAME PROBLEM.I also tryed to jump start it in 3rd gear with key on but it just sounded like it was still getting no fuel...Not sure what to do now..What kind of part would just all of the sudden gpo out?????
ANY ANSWER??? PLZ HELP

Hello, Consider the crankshaft position sensor. It has the job of generating a signal that the computer uses to determine the engine is turning. The computer will then initiate injector pulse and spark.

No signal no start. Do you have a multimeter to test this sensor? It's just behind the harmonic balancer on the right side of the engine.

Roger

well i get a spark but my guess is it's a sencor somwhere,there's so many & im not to sure whats what

Got spark? Great! Let me see how the injectors get their power. I'll get a wiring diagram and be right back.

Roger

What if somone put some trash in the end of my tailpipe
but i cant see it,So the exhust system wasnt able to breath,could that cause it???

Fuse #18 (15 amp) powers the fuel injectors. Do you have power to the injectors on the Red wire at the injector connector?

Does your check engine light come on with the key on and also while the engine cranks?

Roger

Yea just checked all fuse's all look good
dont have a tester but one of my next step's
any other idea's i can try???

Try replacing the PCM Power Relay. It supplies power to fuse #18 when the relay energizes and that in turn powers injectors and ignition coil.

When will you have access to a test light or a multimeter? I can wait for you to obtain a tool.

Roger

1998 Ford 100E Drive Train / Driveline   

Standard transmission is difficult to shift when running. With engine off it shifts easily.

Start by checking the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder reservoir. You likely have a problem in the clutch hydraulics. It could be a fluid or air leak in the clutch master cylinder, hose or slave cylinder.

Let me know if the fluid level is low.

Where is the reservoir for this system? I see the brake master cylinder but no other fluid reservoir. This vehicle is 4 wheel drive, does that make a difference?

I need conformation of what your driving. The heading displays- 1998 Ford 100E, I don't have a listing for a 98 100E.

Please give me more information on the vehicle so I can assist you.

1998 Ford Explorer XLT, 4.0 Liter, 4 wheel drive, manual transmission. The manual shows a reservoir next to the brake master cylinder reservoir and says, "If so equipped." mine is not "so equipped." I called the dealer service dept and the guy said it may be supplied by the brake reservoir He said bring it over and they will check. We know that will cost me $60.

Copy and paste the following link into you address bar-

http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=TRQ&MfrPartNumber=CM350070&PartType=234&PTSet=A

It takes you to an image of the master cylinder and the remotely mounted reservoir.

Study the image then look at yours. Is it the same? It should at least help to determine where the clutch master cylinder is supplied with fluid.

I cannot find a reference to the clutch master cylinder being supplied with fluid from the brake reservoir. Is this vehicle in the USA?

That is the same picture from the manual.Apparently they changed the system but not thr manual. Perhaps the change is in the 1999 manual. I will take it in because I do not have the facilities to replace any of the parts .

There is no hose to supply the clutch master cylinder?

Good point on 1999, so I checked and could not find any difference. The previous site I gave claims the part is for 95-99 Explorers (iterestingly enough fits GM's Cutlass and Grand Am also). Repair information shows different pictures for the 96, but none of the years are shown to have a different design (all have a hose from reservoir to master cylinder).

Let me know what the find. Hopefully the slave cylinder does not need replacing.

went to the


Went to the ford dealer. the tech found the reservoir. it had never been attached to its spot and was hanging down where it could not be seen. It was upside down and empty. End of mystery. I know it came from the factory that way. so much for ford quality control!! I am replacing this vehicle with a toyota 4-Runner

Good, at least it didn't involve costly transmission disassembly.

One thing to mention on the 4-Runner, very popular vehicles to have the catalytic converters stolen. They tend to be high off the ground and have two converters (easy access). The platinum, palladium, and/or rhodium inside the converter makes them attractive to thieves.

thank you for the information. I live in a rural area so should not have much trouble. But I will try not to park in secluded areas.

1997 Ford 100E Drive Train / Driveline   

My transmission is leaking transmission oil. I have put the front seal, and it is still leaking. It is a ford all wheel drive explore. what can I do

I am assuming that it is still leaking oil between the engine and transmission. There are several things that can cause a transmission to leak at the front. The most common point is the converter seal. This can be a bad seal, or can be a scored converter, or a worn pump bushing (in the transmission), or a combination of the 3. It could also leak from the pump seal which appears like the same place when looking under the truck. Most likely your converter and/or pump need work/replacement.

1996 Ford 100E Ignition System   

Sometimes my Explorer will not start. I had a neighbor look at it and he thinks that it is a problem with my ignition. I have not gotten it to the shop yet, most days it starts fine, but every once in a while I will have to catch a ride to work because I can not get it to start at all. It is not my battery. How much will having an ignition replaced cost me?

Hello
If you mechanically inclined you can pick up a new ignition at the auto parts store for around 15-30 dollars and do it yourself its fairly an eary job. If you take it to a shop it all depends on the shop what they will charge in parts and labor. I would personaly have a buddy to do if you arnt comfortable doing it.
Heavychevy

Thank you, but I am absolutely not mechanically inclined!! Do you agree that this is an ingnition problem?

Yes, your neighbor knows his stuff. It sounds like the switch is worn out and not making a good connection sometimes.

Thank you for your help!

No problem

/

Just doing a follow up to check the progress on your ford.
Heavychevy

1996 Ford 100E Fuel System   

I have a 1996 Ford Thunderbird that the check engine light came on a while ago. I had it smog checked as required By California and it passed everything but the fuel injection part. Will adding STP fuel additive and "opening it op" take care of this. It is not driven often, and it starts and runs fine, but I need to have it pass the smog check before I can register it.

What part of the fuel injection (or test) failed?

Is the check engine light still on? If not, how long has it been off?

The check engine light has not gone off. The part that failed just says: 'Air injection, fail, MIL/check engine light." This was under the section that says, EMMISION CONTROL SYSTEMS VISUAL INSPECTION/FUNCTIONAL CHECK RESULTS. Everything else for the smog check passed. Like I said, the car really isn't driven very often, no distance, and very slow speeds in town.so I suspect deposits, but am not a mechanic.

Try disconnecting the negative battery cable for a minute and reconnecting. This will reset the check engine light. Test drive at all speeds and see if the light will stay out for 40-50 miles (which it usually takes for the monitors to run). If it does I assume you'd pass the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp aka check engine light)portion of the test. If it does not stay out you'll need to have the trouble codes read. Call Autozone and see if they'll lend you a trouble code reader (for a fully refundable deposit). Most Autozone and Parts America (Advance Auto)stores will check the codes free of charge, but it seems CA has restrictions on testing of this nature. Let me know which alphanumeric trouble codes come on.

On you question involving fuel system cleaner, it is hard to say. There are hundreds of things that can cause the engine light to come on, most of which will not be solved by running a cleaner through the fuel system (especially considering good gasoline has an ample amount of detergents in it already).

Thanks - I will try that tomorrow when I have a young man coming over to do it for me. I'll let you know, so I didn't end the question thing.

Okay, let me know what happens or if you have any additional questions.

Wil do and thank you so much. As I am a 75 year old woman, I'll have to have the young man check this all out, but I will let you know. I really don't understand what the fuel injection has to do with the emmission system, which passed really great, but that failed the whole thing.

We undid the negative battery cable - the handbook said to leave it undone for an hour. The light came back on, but I had my grand daughter and her friend put in some STP fuel cleaner and drive it - they drove about 50 miles and the check engine light went off; not sure when because she called me from her cell phone and isn't here yet, but my son will give it another run this weekend and if the light stays off, he'll have it rechecked on Monday. Thank you so much for your help. I'll let you know if the light stays off and we get the smog cert.

Leaving the cable off for an hour is usually overkill. The computer (PCM) is reset instantly when power is lost. There are capacitors that store a small amount of electricity which can keep the PCM from resetting if you don't wait a bit.

Thank your for this and the next update. In the mean time... if you have any questions?

My grand daughter said when they got to Mojave - about 25 miles from here - the light was on; when she restarted it when they were ready to come back, it was off; drove back to Lancaster, went to Walmart and the light is still off. I will let you know.

That is promising, good luck.

1995 Ford 100E Ignition System   

Engine off test produces the DTC 327 code, EGR valve position circuit below min. EVP/EPT circuit below min. voltage

Engine running tests produces the following: Cyl #6.., DTC 335 EGR sensor circuit voltage low or higher than expected.

Validated that the EGR valve works and is not blocked, validated the EGR passages are not plugged or blocked. Car bucks and surges when warmed up fully. The bucking and surging is not present when engine is cold.

Likely failure of the EGR valve position sensor/DPFE sensor. First check the wiring to the sensor, make sure is not corroded at the electrical connector (or pin damage).

After looking at things that is my conclusion. I cleared codes and re-ran the car. same code appeared. But then a new code appeared last night after going back throught the codes. DTC 668, Transmission range sensor circuit above max. voltage. What causes that?

Thanks

The Transmission Range Sensor is what used to be referred to as the Park/Neutral safety switch. It may be bad or intermittently giving a bad signal. It should be located right by the shifting lever on the transmission.

I would clear this code first, and see if it comes back.

I installed the DPFE sensor, cleared the codes. Then drove it and produced new codes. While driving it it woudl buck and almsot stall out at near wide open throttle. The new codes are DTC 132, 172 and 412. I then ran the output state test, no issues. Then I ran the wiggle test and no problems. Then lastly I ran the cyinder balance test. It came up with Cyl#1 weak. What is the cause?

1990 Ford 100E Drive Train / Driveline   

My 1990 Ford Ranger 4cyl-Auto will not shift into overdrive. Other than that it shifts perfect. Is there a switch I should check ?

Hello, Try lifting on the brake pedal with your toe when you are going fast enough to expect overdrive should engage.

Do you have an overdrive switch in the end of the shift lever? Does the overdrive light on the instrument panel work when you turn the switch on/off?

Are fuses good?

Roger

no switch on shifter, fuses ok

One function of the vehicle brake light switch is to cancel cruise control and converter clutch overdrive if they are engaged. Of course the switch controls brake lights on/off.

Have you inspected the transmission wiring connector to confirm a clean tight connection?

There is the possibility that the solenoid that controls the overdrive clutch has failed. No doubt you have thought of that.

To answer the question "is there a switch I should check?" I don't know of one other than the brake light switch.

Ford has a scan tool they can check the transmission for converter clutch overdrive codes. I'll try to find out if you can test for codes as well. Do you have a multimeter?

Roger

Behind the engine compartment fuse relay block you can expect to find the self-test connector for diagnostics.

Jumper the connector terminals and turn the key on but do not start the engine. Watch and count the check engine light flashes to read codes. For example; check engine light flashes eight times followed by a short pause then flashes nine times. Result is code 89. Codes repeat up to three times before moving on to the next code.

Can you retrieve any codes? Only two transmission codes are possible. Code 86 and code 89.

Please advise,

Roger

it did not make a difference

If lifting on the brake pedal made no difference will you please check for codes?

Roger