GEO Metro

2007 GEO Metro Fuel System   

My 1991 geo metro has started to idle rough and the fuel mileage has dropped severely. I have replaced the plugs, air filter and pcv valve but it did not help the problem. It has also began to notice black smoke from the tail pipe at idle. I'm thinking a too rich fuel mixture but i don't know where to look. any suggestions?

Usually this kind of scenario is accompanied by a check engine light...but not always.
The fuel mixture is regulated by the oxygen sensor, which in turn sends a signal to the computer, which in turn regulates how often and how long the fuel injectors stay open.
If you have a digital volt meter, you can test the O2 sensor while the engine is running.
The O2 sensor should have a median voltage of .5 volts with rapid spikes to .8 and .3 volts. If the changes are not rapid, then the O2 is 'lazy' and should be replaced, if the voltages are out of range the O2 should be replaced.

The O2 sensor is located in the exhaust manifold or the pipe just below it. It is about the size of your thumb, if you are looking for it.Not difficukt to replace, but probably tight.

ok, i went ahead and replaced the oxygen sensor and it didn't help. now what?

The only other issue could be worn injectors
There should be a code set even if no check engine light. Most auto parts stores and Midas can check for codes for reasonable price or free

2007 GEO Metro Engine   

car will not start cold runs great any other time seems to be at o f or less

There is a sensor called a CTS or coolant temp sensor that adjusts the air fuel mixture according to engine temp.The coolant level must be correct for it to work also. There is also a air intake temp sensor that might be a problem. Instead of randomly changing sensors, get the car scanned for codes. That service is offered for free at many auto parts stores.There might be a sensor problem, even if there is no check engine light.

very disterbing have spent untold amount on this malady can you give some insight why does the edu not give a code

The ECU does not always set a code. A mystery. you are right.My Grand Prix required a Crank Position Sensor. Scanned it for codes 5x, yet there was no code set.
Replaces that sensor, it now runs fine...

i am down to less sensors the ig. mod. has been eliminated fuel pump been replaced think i will try the coolant temp. sensor what are my chances was thinking about the way it starts from time to time it will start and run slow idle then pick up seems strange

Since it might be temp related it might be the problem.If coolant level low the sensor might be reading erratic.They do not read air temp well

have sensor will install tomorrow. see what happens i will let you know if this is not it i will bring to dealer have spent enough money i could have easily brought it to dealer in the beginning

have tried all sensors if i warm the injector area it will start immediately takes less than 30 seconds think its poor electrical connection on fuel injector to cold today to deal with it will inform

Possibly warming injector area is an indicator of sticking injectors.

2007 GEO Metro Engine   

GEO Metro, 100k miles, leaks lots of oil but otherwise has been running fine. Now, very hard to start & requires lots of cranking with full throttle to get started. Once it starts immediately stops. Try to crank and the engine doesn't turn. Come back later and it will turn and try to start again. Thoughts?

First thing I would do, other than attend to oil leaks. is do a tuneup including compression test.Then I would scan it for codes. If after tune, still hard starting,
replace fuel filter and do fuel pressure test.

Thanks for your response. Do I need a scanner to pull the codes on this, or can I do it myself?

Scanner req'd on late model cars with OB2 emissions.Many parts stores offer that sevice for free.I hope you are keeping spare oil in trunk...low oil could be death for motor.

Yep. Needs an extra quart a month, I keep an eye on it. I will go get the codes pulled.

Last question and thanks for your help:

What do you make of the fact that it seems to seize up after it finally starts and dies, and then later when I come back it will crank again?

Might already have a bearing problem...oil press check to confirm.
Head gasket problem might be leaking coolant
into cylinder..Hydraulic lock...press bleeds down,,.compression check to verify.

2000 GEO Metro Electrical / Lighting Systems   

my daytime running lights quit. When headlights are on low beam, they flicker on and off, but NOT on high beam. I changed the bulbs, checked fuses, checked the switch at the emergency brake and the switch on the handle of the steering wheel. daytime lights will still not come on. any suggestions?

yes you may want to check the wiring harness for a short as there is a bad connection on the low beam side
You will also want to check your switch to see if by jilling it causes the problem to get better or worse.
I hope this helps

Thanks for replying. I tried the switch, jiggling it,
it made no difference. Where is the wiring harness? Also is there a "relay" that might be causing the problem? I know very little about motors. Last night I put the lights on low beam and the went completely off several times in 1 minute, but not on high beam. Still no running/daytime lights. Thanks in advance for helping to solve this problem.
Ron

The wiring harness goes throughout the car from rear to front and you will want to concesntrate on the lower part , try to follow the wires in the direction of the head light and wiggle wires with the lights on to check for a shorting circuit

1998 GEO Metro Engine   

My car is hard to start when the motor is warm. After a short trip it will restart if I try to restart it right after it is shut off. If it sits for a few miniutes I have to pump the excelerator and then hold it to the floor to restart it. I have a hundred and two thousand miles on this car. Is it trying to tell me it's time for a tune up? Could it be the fuel pump? If it sits all night it will start right up.

Hi, Let me ask you "How long since the engine was tuned?"

Pumping the accelerator and then holding it on the floor to restart after it has set for a few minutes is a procedure for starting a flooded engine.

Please advise,

Roger

This car has never had a tune up. It runs and idels fine after it has been started. I wonder if the coil may be getting week after it warms up? My first thought was a crank sensor but I'm not getting a check engine light. How about fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator?
Thanks for your help!
I would have checked this sooner but I didn't get an e-mail notice.

A crankshaft sensor won't usually set a code or turn the check engine light on. It doesn't really sound as though you have a crank sensor problem.

It's time for some maintenance after 100K miles. Plan on new plugs and fuel filter, inspect vacuum lines for cracks, splits, or deteriorting condition. Replace the PCV valve. If this is a 1.0L engine replacing the distributor cap and rotor is good thinking too.

I doubt there is a fuel pump or pressure regulator issue with your car.

Roger

Thanks Roger, Thats the info I was looking for.

You are welcome. To close this question please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

1997 GEO Metro Ignition System Won't Start When starting Always

ok i changed the timing belt and it started up just fine then but no power (very little) but it did start i then hooked the timing lite up and the haynes book said i must unhook a plug next the coil and run a fused wire between the c and d port did this and when i went to start the car the check engine lite on the dash will not come on or the rest of the lights at the bottom of the dash will not come on all other electrical parts work but the engine will just turn over and over with no spark to the engine i have changed the ignition module under the hood checked all the fuses still nothing please help! what about the main computer? anything i missed there? i have a obd11 tester will it tell me where to look?

Try your obd11 tester and see if it communicates.

Be sure you have good ground connections at the battery and engine.

Does this car have the underhood fuse box also?

Does the fuel pump and injectors operate?

1997 GEO Metro Engine Leaking Happens always 

My engine is burning oil. There is no oil on the ground. It burns about a 1/2 quart of oil a week. The Crank sensor was replaced in Mya 2003, and did not help. Any suggestions on parts that may need to be replaced?

Since the engine is burning oil, then there are internal parts that will need replacement. These specifically are the rings and the valve seals. The valve seals can be changed without major work, but to change the rings will require an overhaul.

1997 GEO Metro All Part Groups Stalling When braking Always

I am having problems when taking foot off of gas pedal, when braking for a turn, slowing down and stopping. The car just stops. It does not sputter to a stop. Idle is fine and starts up fine. When the car stalls half the time it will start up again and the other half you have to let it sit for a day or so to restart. Anyhelp would be greatly appreciated.

You may have a problem with the ignition switch, there has been some trouble with them.

You should also have a wiggle test done on wiring harness, battery cables, etc to see if bad wiring is the cause.

1997 GEO Metro Fuel System   

My GEO Metro 1997 LSI 4cyl TBI (suzuki) engine will not start (first start of thr day) when the outside temperature is below 60 degrees. If I remove the air cleaner and blow (hair dryer) hot air in the TBI for about 30 seconds, it will star right up and do so the rest of the day. What's this all about????

The first thing you need to do is check for spark during the no start period.

Also visit an Advance Auto or Autozone and see if there are trouble codes stored in the computer. They will do this for free.

Also how cold is the air temperature when this happens?

There is spark (ignition) and it only occurs below 60 degrees.
Norm

Using an ohm meter (digital multimeter) take readings on the fuel injector and throttle position sensor. Compare the reading when the vehicle will start compared to when it won't.

This morning I tried to start it cold...50 degrees.
I even pulsed the switch. No start, Just for the heck of it, I tapped on the fuel injector and the fuel pressure regulator and wiggled the injector wires. The engine started. I shut it off right away and removed the connector from the injector. I read "0" resistance acrossed the injector, and .530 on the TPS.
I removed the injector and checked it. I cleaned the pins and the connector wit contact cleaner. Reinstalled the injector. I was going to check power to the injector and realized that the fuel was going into the TBI becase the injector was not held down.
Put everything back together, the engine started, but acted like it was loaded up, after a few seconds it cleared up and ran smooth. I then took the readings again. The TPS was the same, but now was getting 2.2 across the injector?????

You can try the test again to confirm the injector is going open (in which case it won't work) unless there was corrosion/etc causing a bad connection.

When you say fuel was going into the TBI because the injector was not held down, do you mean fuel was leaking through the injector nozzle (like a garden hose spout that won't turn off)? If this is the case the injector is leaking fuel because of debris inside the injector.

What I should of said was that I was going to check power at the fuel injector connector. (cover)I had the cover off and the injector wasn't seated tight. When I turned on the ignition the fuel pump pressure raised up the injector and flooded the TBI. This sorta runied the test, as the TBI was sorta primed. I just got home froman errand and allowed the engine to cool off (40 degrees)it would not start. I immediately removed the injector cover to check ohms and it read zero. I heated the injector and only the injector with my heat gun for no longer than 30 seconds and checked ohms again and read 2.5. Put the cover back on the injector and it started right up?????

You could try the test again but it sounds like your injector is going open at low temps.

I've located an overhauled injector, as soon as I get it I'll let you know the outcome.
Thanks for your help.
Norm
P.S. I'm an aircraft inspector/technician...however these new "computer cars," can sure get my goat.

Okay, I hope it works.

I once heard an aircraft tech say if you maintained your cars as well is we did our planes, you'd never have a break-down.

1997 GEO Metro Engine   

I am trying to replace the alternator belt on my car, and need to know the location of the bolts to loosen.

you may not be able to see the bolts clearly because of the fan and other componets at the front end
You may have to remove the cooling fan and shroud to get to the alternator adjusting brace
There is two bolts on the alternator one at the bottom of the alternator and one at the top which is adjustable for the belt tension
I hope this helps

Well, since I am trying to replace the A/C belt at the same time (it hasn't broken but is quite worn), this sounds like it should work. I will let you know how it turns out.

Well you may seriously think about just getting the fan and shroud out of the way
do not overlook the bolts behind the fan itself they hold the pulley in place

1997 GEO Metro Fuel System   

the car idles ok but when I try to accelerate,it chugs an stalls out

You might have it tested for codes even if check engine light not on.
Without, that the diagnosis is a guess.
Fuel filter air filter are good thing to check first.The cat converter in the exhaust might be plugged.
Last time timing belt changed?

Timing belt hasn't been changed. The check engine light is on and last time I had it checked, it was on for the O2 sensor. I haven't had it checked in quite a while. How do I check the cat converter and the timing belt?

Timing belt check, remove cover and inspect.Probably overdue (a maintenance item)
Cat test, that requires measuring the temp going in and out of it.

1997 GEO Metro Electrical / Lighting Systems   

i was driving, car die though it was timing belt checked belt was fine, no power to coil main fuse blowen replaced blew again pulled hot wire off coil cranked car over was fine plugged in hot wire cranked car over blew again any clues thanks

Hello, Which engine, please? The 1.0L, or the 1.3L? Do you have a wiring diagram?

Roger

1997 GEO Metro Ignition System   

How do I remove a broken key?

Hello, Depends on how much of the remaining key you can see and which lock it is broken off in.

Can you grip it with precision needle nose pliers, or tweezers? A tiny steel hook?

Roger

Hi Rog> no, cant see it or grip it, tried that. so far ive removed plastic from around post, was hoping i dont need to remove steeing wheel, air bag etc thought i may be able to get it from behind, did get wiring(switch) removed. but wires and the angle are to sharp to get at the back end

If you can't even see the remainder of the key you could get an opinion from a local local locksmith as to possibilities that exclude lock cylinder removal.

That said you should consider to go deep in the column as necedssary.

Roger

OK, Thanks do you know how to remove the lock cyl? If I could get it out, there is a small hole, abt the size of paper clip wire on the driver side of the cyl. tried paper clip, did not move cyl. ill call lock smith Mon. Ted

Ted, I'm not finding the instructions for the lock cylinder removal.

Please provide me your email address and I'll send what I found on ignition switch removal. It may give you some clues as I cannot see what you can.

Roger

[redacted] , I have the 2 vol set of service manuals, nothing about how to remove cyl. does say that lock cyl are avail as replacement w/ key. ted

Ready to close the question? Please click on OK to finish up.

If not, please advise! I thank you,

Roger

Yes, close quest. Thanks Ted

Please click on OK to finish up. This is a step you can do but I cannot. I hope you see it on your screen.

Rog

Rog.. I'm just a dummy on computers, after i log in there is no OK, except the one thats in your Feb 4/08 6:06 PM answer. Ted

Thanks, I'll write the site administrator and ask for help closing the question. This happens sometimes so don't worry about it.

I thank you,

Roger

OK< Thanks Ted

1997 GEO Metro Electrical / Lighting Systems   

97 geo metro runs great until the air conditioner is turned on, then the car begans to struggle and the wipers and blinkers move slowly. The lights began to dim and if I shut off the car it needs a jump to start it. I replaced the battery and alternator but it does the same thing.

Most definatly a charging system problem!
If battery and alternator are known to be good ( I ALWAYS test the new ones!) Then the problem is the wiring.With a volt/ohm meter test the main battery terminals - cables and the connections at the starter. Also check the fusable links (if any)
See if the A?C system is fully charger and the A/C compressor is spinning freely when enguaged

1996 GEO Metro Ignition System Won't Start  

CAN'T GET THE ENGINE TO START AT ALL, HAVE HAD THE BATTERY, STARTER AND ALTERNATOR ALL CHECKED OUT OK. WHEN YOU TURN ON THE IGITION KEY YOU GET NOTHING, DEAD AS A DOOR NAIL, ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED

Ignition key switch assembly, any relays for the transfer of power to the starter, fuses and fuse links.

Fuse links are special 'wires' that blow if excessive current is drawn through them.

Best answer is to get a good digital multi meter and a wiring diagram of your car and test everything mentioned.

You might try either a local technical school that has automotive repair classes, or a dealer to see if they will let you copy the diagrams or borrow a relevant manual.

on the iginition key assy are you refering to the swith on the colmun itself or the iginition module inside the distrubtor.

The ignition key switch assembly, not the module. What you will generally find is a metal rod that extends from key barrel in the column to a switch module located further down on the steering column. This is where your problem might be located. You may have a lot of wire tracing to do. Good luck.

1996 GEO Metro Fuel System Malfunction Happens always Always

The engine races when idling and the car accelerates up to about 30 mph without pressing the gas pedal. The check engine light is NOT on, but I may have a bad O2 sensor. What needs to be replaced or what do I need to do to fix it?

You are getting too much air into your engine. Check to see if the throttle is sticking open. If OK, check idle speed controller or related wiring.

I removed the air filter cover and the air filter and I noticed that the sensor inside (air intake sensor?) is white and coroded. Also, there is white spatter inside the air intake assembly. I wiggled the sensor wires and started the car. I stepped on gas pedel several times and the throttle did not stick. The car seemed to run normal. Is that sensor my problem or is it unrelated to my problem?

That sensor can affect the idle, although you may have additional problems as well. Start with what you know is bad!

1996 GEO Metro All Part Groups   

car quit moving in traffic. Auto-trans sounded like it was in between gears. shifted it between all gears and finally it took off. Pulled the pan and no shavings or sludge, looks new. Any answers? Thank you. jckgoin@yahoo.com

Although debris in the pan is a sign of wear, there are many seals etc inside that can fail with no warning.If the linkage etc are hooked up externally, and adjusted properly, there is not much you can do.
Replacement transmissions are readily available used at autowreckers, and are not difficult to replace.

1996 GEO Metro All Part Groups   

My 1996 Geo Metro (manual transmission) has about 130,000 miles on it. Lately, when I start the car, the engine sounds louder than usual in first gear. I cannot shift into second gear without terrible grinding. Thus, I've been shifting from first gear into third gear. If I take my foot off the gas when it is in gear, there is noise from the engine (sounds like it is straining or even a slight grinding sound). The car runs fine in third and fourth gears.

Is this a problem with the clutch? or is it shift linkage? Frankly, I'm not sure and am concerned about having to overhaul the transmission. I'd like to avoid that.

Any thoughts?

If the transmission proves bad I'd personally opt for a used replacement w-warranty from a reputable salvage yard.


Do you have any difficulty shifting into second gear when the engine is turned off? Most significantly the the first time you try as compared to repeated attempts when you may have 'cleared a path.'

Have you checked the transmission fluid level as well as the clutch master cylinder reservoir level?

Negative to all three questions you posed: (1) Have not tried to shift into second gear when the car is shut off, nor have I checked (2) transmission fluid levels and/or (3) clutch master cylinder resevoir level.

Could it be something as simple as transmission fluid levels being inadequate?

It could be so it must be checked.

Try shifting into second, as I described, and get back to me. Additionaly, with the engine off (radio, heater, etc off too) you will be able to listen for slop in the shift linkage.

By the way, there is no difficulty shifting into first? The symptoms you described arre usually lack of the clutch release, but the lower the gear the greater problem... if first is an easy/normal shift we must look at linkage and internal transmission.

Will have those fluid levels checked and I'll let you know about shifting into second gear with the engine turned off.

If I didn't mention it earlier, first gear will eventually "pop out" around 15-20mph. otherwise, I've been able to downshift into first gear without too much of a problem, and can shift into first from neutral without problems.

I failed to mention that the problems in second gear worsened over a two week period of light driving. It went from popping out (usually when making a turn in second gear) out of second gear to now just grinding like heck....hence my going from first gear to third gear. I'm fearful that the same will eventually happen with first gear..and then so on, etc..

Okay, this is likely internal transmission although linkage is possible but not as likely.

If you leave your zip code I'll search for used transmissions in your area. I can do a broad search, but shipping prices/availability deprive the value of the items cost.

Hi - Yesterday you asked me to try and shift into second gear (the problem gear) w/car shut off. I did so this morning with the car turned off and I was able to shift into second gear with no problem. Actually, I could shift into all the gears without problem.

Is that positive that I can shift into second when the car is off? If I wasn't able to do so, what would that indicate?

Normally this would be a sign that the clutch is not disengaging (hard to shift into low gears). In your case, it doesn't appear to be a clutch concern (the popping out of gear, etc).

If you wasn't able to do it would indicate the linkage may be binding OR something was loose inside the transmission. Instead your problem appears when clutch use is not a potential problem.

What is still possible, but not probable, is a mount problem.

1996 GEO Metro Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have a fuse that always burn, it is the PTC fuse, one wire of the PTC fuse is connected to the HTR relay the other wire of the fuse I don't know! there is 4 wire on the HTR relay one is connected to the PTC fuse, why the fuse keep on burning????? Thank you for your help ?

Could be the HTR relay or the fan has a problem or a wiring problem (bad insulation or bare insulation or corroded terminal. The only way to test is with an ohm meter or perhaps a test light might work. Replacing the relay might be an option. Try not to put in a larger amp fuse unless you wish to identify the bad wire quickly (and replace it) Not a recommended procedure, by the way!

Thank you to reply so rapidely ! I will look tomorrow at the problem.

1996 GEO Metro Ignition System   

I have 1.3L do not know the history of this car. It starts and runs for 2-3 seconds and dies, Restarts right away same thing happens. It is getting fuel, it appears to lose ignition. Changed the crank sensor traced and checked wires from sensor to computer, no broken wire (ohm meter) changed computer. Still same problem. Also changed the ignition pickup/module in the distributor. Any sugestions? Thanks

Hello, This could be a security system fault. Does your ignition key have a visible chip in it?

I'm going to check a wiring diagram and get back to you.

Roger

I don't find wiring to a security system to be relevant here.

What is the fuel pressure? Key on engine off fuel pressure should be about 23-30 psi.

Roger

fuel pump runs and has pressure, but did not check with a gauge. When primed with gas down the TBI the engine does not run any longer time than without additional gas.

Has the ignitor been tested? Have you tried starting the engine with the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) electrical connector disconnected?

Note: The air inlet tube will need to be fully installed or the engine will not start.

Roger

1995 GEO Metro Engine   

The "check engine" is on. How do I get the codes out. My car has the numbered computer acess port not the lettered one. I have a list of the codes but don't know how to retrieve them. The engine runs good with the exception of a slightly erratic idle. Thanks Metro LSI 1.0 litre

5-3-03.
Hello, the fastest way I've found to get your car to reveal the codes without you having to buy a scanner, or, pay a diagnostic fee, is to stop by your local auto parts chain store. Example; Auto Zone, O'Reilly's... will test your car codes for free!

Make a list of the codes they find and then have them clear the codes for you right there on the spot. Drive the car and see if the check engine light comes back on, then have the codes read again. Compare the two lists of codes found. Tell me what you've found out, we'll start with the lowest number code first, and go from there. OK? Avoid buying parts until we make a plan unless you are advised of a part needed to correct an obvious code fault you agree with.

Roger

1995 GEO Metro Drive Train / Driveline Slipping When accelerating Always

The automatic transmission slips badly from a stop. Often it will not pull off. Fluid is clean red color. Fluid does not look or smell burned. Fluid level is correct. It appears to be electrical. We have disconnected the electrical connectors one at a time and have gotten the transmission to engage but still slips badly. We have coded the vehicle but no codes Any help?

O.K. If you have already tried to retrieve codes and the shift sensors are operational, the best I can tell from this side of the screen is you probably have an internal problem. You say the fluid is clean and red looking but that doesn't rule out a clogged filter, bands, torque converter or a valve body. A good system flush and an additive may put a band-aid on it for a while, but I would seriously look into the cost of replacing or rebuilding if this is the problem.
Good Luck,
Paul

1995 GEO Metro Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction  

i have a 1995 geo metro 2 dr. 3cyl. 1.0liter ...when the car is running the battery is not being charged..I put a new alternator in and a brand new battery..and had both tested to make sure they were good and they were..battery still dies after a few hours of driving..what should i do..

Hello, Does the light on the dash indicating the battery or no charge come on with the engine Off and the key ON?

If it doesn't has it burned out? If so, replace the bulb. This circuit turns on your car's voltage regulator.

Please advise,

Roger

Roger, Thanks SO MUCH!!!! You were dead on...WOW!!! I did exactly what you said and that worked!!! Thank you again ..This service is GREAT..I'll be back and tell all my friends...you saved me so much MONEY!!! I'm so HAPPY!!!

Great job!! Smiles like yours are why I do this!

To accept my answer please click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

Sailing on,

Roger

To accept my answer so that I may be paid please click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button. All Parts witholds my portion of the fee you have posted for an answer to your question until you accept my answer. You will not be charged twice.

Thank you,

Roger

1995 GEO Metro Engine Overheating When driving Always

my geo seems to be over pressurizing the cooling system. all the water is blown out the overflow on the radiator and these causes the overheating. It has a new water pump (3 months ago) and the radiator was replaced about 1 yr ago. The temp gage does not show that it is overheating but the engine starts to ping and chug. It runs fine after we cool it down and put in more water.

Check for a faulty thermostat.

1995 GEO Metro All Part Groups   

I have a 95 OBD1 1.3 geo metro It has a check engine light on. I don't want to read flash codes. I have spent too much time looking for an import OBD1 diadnostic scaner and plenty will clame all coverage for imports but none have a listing for Geo metro

I want to find an import scan tool that will cover geo metros and other import cars pre 96.

I have looked into laptop based scan tools and still cant find anything.

Thanks for any help!

I don't understand why you don't want to find out what the flash code(s) are. This may be all that is needed to repair your car.

How much are you willing to spend on a scanner? I assume you want a full function scanner and not a simple code reader. You may find a good deal on a scanner on Ebay, a professional scanner like a Snap On or OTC.

I work on many vehicals and wish to use a scan tool that will work on all import cars pre OBD2. Like i said i have spent too much time looking for something online. Snapon and OTC all clame import covarage.
Thay do cover some bt don't cover all or at the least my geo metro. Please let me know of a scan too that covers my car at the least.

Thanks

1995 GEO Metro Engine   

My 1995 Geo Metro dies easily. At idle and in gear, if you press the gas pedal to fast the car will die. You have to barely accelerate at first to make the car move. Once you get the car rolling you can accelerate to a maximum speed of 67 on a flat road. If you climb a hill the car slows down. The mechanics have replaced the fuel filter, adjusted the timing, replaced spark plugs.

Is the check engine light coming on? These had some troble with the map sensor (3 cylinder). It would cause this type of problem but should turn on the check engine light. Let me know.

You could also have inadequate fuel pressure or an exhaust restriction.

This is a 4 cylinder Metro. The mechanic said something about him checking the exhaust. I don't know if he checked the fuel pressure, I will ask him. Also, the car dies easier when it is first started up. It acts like it is flooded at first so if you slowly increase the accelerator you can get RPM when parked. Once you put it in gear, the car will not even move. The only way to move it is to rev up the car and pull it into drive while the engine is at a high RPM.

Okay, is the check engine light coming on?

Restricted exhaust will usually be bettery after the car has sat overnight, and will get worse the longer the engine runs.

No Check Engine light is coming on.
The mechanic could not remember if he checked the fuel pressure. How would I do this? They did disconnect the exhaust at the manifold and it did not run any better. They pulled off a wire to make the computer give a check engine light code and it came on so they assumed the computer was fine. They hooked the car up to the diagnostic computer and no codes were shown, everything was normal. The car works a little better when warm. A cold start is not possible, it only dies or the car will not momove.

I see I forgot a very important word in my response. The Check Engine Light is NOT on.

You need a fuel pressure gauge to check fuel pressure. This should of been one of the first things checked.

Call your local Autozone or Advance Auto and see if they have a fuel pressure gauge available in their Tool Loaner programs. They will loan you tools for a fully refundable deposit.

Finally got the fuel pressure checked. It was 32 lbs.

The car had been sitting for quite some time and my son left the key on which drained the battery. Jumped started the car and now am unable to make it even rev up while in park. The car dies when you press down on the gas pedal.

1995 GEO Metro Drive Train / Driveline   

The car won't back up when put in reverse. And when in drive the automatic transmission takes a long time to shift.

Hello, You have no doubt checked the fluid level. If there is a vacuum line to a transducer on the transmission be sure it is connected at both ends. Disconnect the end that connects to the transmission and see if there is transmission fluid present.

than these simple checks you should seek the help of a technician specializing in transmission repair.

I do not think that changing the fluid and filter will help.

Roger

I have checked the fluid level and it's ok. How much would it normally cost to go in and get it diagnosed by a mechanic? What do I need to do to change the fluid and filter? Is that hard to do?

If the fluid does not smell burned and it is full there is not much you can do.

To change the fluid and filter the bottom pan on the transmission is removed (fluid goes everywhere) and the filter is then in plain sight. Most just pull or pry loose with very little effort. Install a new filter.

Clean up the pan and reinstall it with a new gasket to prevent leaks. Torque the pan bolts to specs. Service the fluid level. Check for leaks.

Recycle the old fluid at an auto parts store.

Most transmission shops will do a test drive with you for little or no cost. You'd have to ask them locally what they charge for an estimate for repairs.

I was going to change the fluid today and when I went to move the car I was able to back up. It seems to be working now. Does that indicate that it might not be a big problem with the transmission and could be corrected with the fluid and filter change?

Thanks

No way to be sure. It is a maintenance step and you could think of it as an investment.

What lies in the bottom of the transmission pan or is caught on the filter will tell you if something is coming apart.

Should the pan appear to be fairly clean of debris, change the filter and close it up. Realize that when you change the fluid and filter- the new fluid will be blended with the captured fluid in the torque converter that will not drain.

Roger

1995 GEO Metro Engine   

Died suddenly while driving. Timing belt is fine and the timing marks still line up. It is getting fuel and all four cylinders have good compression. cap, rotor and plugs have less than 10k on them. It appears to have spark with a test light inline with the plugs. It cranks over fine but does not fire at all. (ignition module, pick-up possibly??? )

Hello,

You said it is getting fuel... do you mean fuel pressure is present? Spray a small amount of carburetor/throttle body cleaner into throttle body or large vacuum hose. Try to start the engine. If it fires or runs momentarily you are probably missing fuel injector pulse.

Don't overlook fuses. Give me an update.

Tried that already and when cranking you can see the injector spraying fuel and when I pulled the plugs they were soaked with fuel.

I have checked every fuse in the car and under the hood and the fuel pump relay. I also had someone cranking it while I added fuel to the throttle body and it never hit once. Then I checked compression and timing.

Did you try holding the accelerator to the floor? This should turn off the injectors (clear flood mode).

Back to spark, were you using a spark tester (high voltage)?

Have you checked trouble codes?

No I did not try holding the petal to the floor and I dont have a code reader for OBD 1. I am using a high voltage tester that you put inline between the plug and the wire.

Dry the plugs (allow the cylinders to air out for a bit) and try with the accelerator held down.

If spark is consistant, timing is on, healthy compression we are down to a flooded engine (or flooding condition) or restricted exhaust (although this should come on with a loss of power verse suddenly stopping).

Look in the interior fuse box and see if there is a fuse receptable labeled 'DIAG' or 'Diagnostics.' If there is insert a fuse here then turn on the key. This will cause the Check Engine light to flash the codes.

I have had exhaust restrictions on other vehicles in the past and like you said it usually starts with a loss of power but most cars dont have exhaust the size of a drinking straw either so that might be it.
Also I found a list of codes and I am assuming a code 13 for example would be a flash then pause then three more flashes. Is that correct.

Correct. If you have trouble counting simply turn off the key, turn back on to start over. If the battery has been disconnected codes will be erased.

This applies if you have the DIAG terminal, I'm not sure if the '95 did or not.

What options do I have if there is no diag port.

I'm not aware of any options other than a professional scanner.

1994 GEO Metro Engine Overheating When driving Always

When I drive at over 55-57 MPH, my car ALWAYS begins to overheat, according to the dash display. Coolant is fine, everything else seems to be fine, but I can't use my AC much because it seems to be linked to the overheating problem. A friend says it's a sensor switch -- temperature/thermostat, what?

the first thing you want to do is use a engine coolant flush to clean out your system and replace the fluids for the radiator.
if still a problem then have the cooling system checked for a bad thermostat, water pump going out or a radiator needing reconditioning.your sensors are probly fine because they are operating
I hope this helps

1994 GEO Metro Ignition System Won't Start Happens always Always

Geo just quit. Now no spark from coil. No fuel pump sound when key is turned on. However, there is a click on the fuel pump relay when key is put in on position.

Hello, I'll access the Mitchell 1 Auto Repair Data Base and get you some suggestions.

Back soon,

Roger

Do you have a fax number? I can send you some information and graphics.

I'm not yet finding what I want concerning the no spark from the ignition coil. I do suspect your fuel pump has quit.

Have you checked for fuel pressure?

Can you remove the rear seat cushion (if equipped) to gain access to the fuel pump wiring? Can you hear the fuel pump run for two seconds after switching on the key? Disconnect the fuel pump and fuel tank sending unit wiring harness connectors.

Power is output on the pink wire from the fuel pump relay to the fuel pump connector. If you can monitor the pink wire terminal at the fuel pump connector for voltage...when you first turn the key on there should be battery voltage present for the first two seconds and then nothing. If the voltage is getting there you are assured the car's computer and fuel pump relay are working properly.

Please advise,

Roger

Thanks for the information. I did as you requested and found no voltage on the pink wire. Also hooked up my timing light to #1 plug and cranked the motor. No spark from the inition at all.

Do you have a fax number? No voltage on the pink wire at the fuel pump means the relay does not output the voltage to run the pump or the wiring has a break between the relay and the pump. I can send you a schematic.

Have you checked fuses and fusible links? Do you have an Owner's Manual to refer to identify locations?

Roger

Yes, I checked all the fuses and removed and cleaned all the plugs on the fuse board under the dash. Additionally, I removed the plug from the PCM and cleand those contacts.

The fuel pump does not run when the key is turned on. I by passed the circuit and tested the pump circuit. The pump did run.

Please note: Additionally there is no spark from the distributer or signal to the primary of the coil

Nick

Here are some specs on the ignition coil.

If it is a STANDARD COIL:
Primary resistance range is 1.33-1.65 ohms.
Secondary resistance range is 22,100-29,900 ohms.

If it is an UPGRADED COIL:
Primary resistance range is 1.08-1.32 ohms.
Secondary resistance range is 22,100-29,900 ohms.

The PICK-UP COIL resistance range is 140-180 ohms. The PICK-UP COIL on your car is also known as the CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (CMP)

You state you hear a click coming from the fuel pump relay when you first turn on the key. You have checked and found no power on the pink wire at the fuel pump connector during the first two seconds after the key is turned on. Have you checked to see if power leaves the fuel pump relay on the pink wire when it clicks on?
If the pink wire at the fuel pump relay connector is not powered up when the relay clicks one can reason that the relay has a problem.
(With the fuel pump relay disconnected) What happens if you jump power to the fuel pump relay connector pink wire? Does the fuel pump run? This would validate the wiring integrity from the relay to the fuel pump.

Please, let me ask again, do you have access to a fax number? Does a friend or family member have access? I'd like to send you wiring schematics at no extra charge. Will a cover sheet for a fax sent to you be needed?

Try to test your ignition coil resistance against the specs I've sent you. Let me know what you find.

At the outset I'm wondering if your computer has failed...alot depends on that pick-up coil. Since the fuel pump relay clicks when you turn the key on, that part of the computer seems OK. But if the pick-up coil is bad the computer doesn't know the engine is cranking and it will not fire the coil for spark.

Roger

Roger,

I checked coil specs and all is within stated spec. I jumped the fuel pump wires and pump ran as normal.

FAX number [redacted] .

I have good test equipment and timing light. Volt Meter is digital and I have electronics background. Perhaps we should test the main controler.

Nick

Have you checked to see if power leaves the fuel pump relay on the pink wire when it clicks on?
If the pink wire at the fuel pump relay connector is not powered up when the relay clicks one can reason that the relay has a problem.

Can you find the ALDL connector where an OBD I scanner would plug in to? It is usually along the lowest edge of the dash on the drivers' side. When the key is on and Pins A & B are shunted together (I use a paper clip) the Check Engine Light will flash codes if there are any. Without a scanner there is no other way (short of substitution) to test the Engine Control Module.

I'm trying to fax some pages to you but so far my machine says "No response/Busy".

Roger

Ten attempts to send you a fax at [redacted] have all had "No response/Busy" results. Is this number correct? Could it be busy or turned off?

Please advise,

Roger

sorry wrong FAX number [redacted] is correct...

Okay, I'll try again. Thanks.

Roger

I wikk take time today to check the brain. all seems to be going in that direction

I'm still not clear on your answer to:

Have you checked to see if power leaves the fuel pump relay on the pink wire when it clicks on?
If the pink wire at the fuel pump relay connector is not powered up when the relay clicks one can reason that the relay has a problem.

Roger

Sorry for delay. I hear a click but could be from main relay. Yesterday when testing circuit I heard the pump run. I then tried to start the engine. it started but after I turned it off and attempted to restart back to the same problem. Sound like a lose wire or connector. I wll pull all connectors and clean them.

Thank you! I look forward to what happens next. Please let me know.

Roger

I pulled all connectors from the fuse panel, PCM and and many others. Cleaned all connectors with WD 40 and replaced plugs. Afterward fuel pump ran and full spark. Ran engin for 30 minutes and then restarted sucessfully several times. at this point I cannot reproduce the falt. I will drive it for several days and see if the problem is solved.

In did find corrosion on several pins on the PCM and Main controler.

Nick

You just might have done it Nick. Since we are dealing in low voltage here, a little corrosion sure raises the resistance in a connection. (as if you didn't know...!)

Thanks,

Roger

1994 GEO Metro Ignition System   

My 1994 Geo Metro, shuts off when i stop in drive or turn the Air Conditioner on, Whats the problem,

Will the engine restart immediately?

If yes it sounds like the idle is dropping to low. Start by removing and cleaning the idle speed motor and its port along with the throttle body bore and blade.

Let me know if this improves the problem.

This assumes no check engine light while the engine is running.

No, the check engine light isnt on.

Okay, check what I said and get back to me.

If you need clarification or further instruction, let me know.

1994 GEO Metro Engine   

some times at sustained 70 mph car will start smoking like james bond car it doesnt ever smoke or use oil if i dont go over 55 mph. if i back out of it it will clean up and be fine for awhile. i have replaced the pcv valve twice and it doesnt help. hope you can help me.

is the smooke blue or whit or black? and what engine do you have and miles on the motor?

the smoke is blue, its being sucked into the intake from the valve cover you can see oil on top of the intake under the aircleaner. three cyl. 1000cc 130000 miles

The car has many seals, gaskets, and O-rings that are designed to keep the engine oil from entering the cylinder, and one of them has failed.
Using thicker weight engine oil or an oil additive designed to reduce oil leaks might help reduce the amount of oil leaking into the cylinder.
Your car has high milage and a thicker grade of oil plus a crankcase engine sealer will probably do the trick for you.
I m sure if that is your only problem then you will be pleased with the results.
I hope this helps

if the engine smoked all the time then your answer might help a little, but it only smokes while under power at freeway speeds on occasion. the oil is being sucked out of the valve cover and into the intake. what is causing this is my question.

If the oil is comming out under compression then the head gasket is what seperates the engine oil from the valves and the pistons, If it is comming from the valvec cover then a leaking valve seat or bent valve, which will also give you a noticable lack of power.
You possible have a leaking head gasket.
Also the piston rings keep the oil out of the exhuast ,if the rings on one piston so much as aligns at the seams that also would allow blow-by as it is called.
This can happen from normal wear and tear of the engine. as wee as the piston rings loosing thier seal.
A cracked block can be the problem.
The thing is that even with any of these problems the engine can still operat as normal just some smoking.
What happens when you open up to the higher speeds from the engine expandsing of heat it allows more oil to slip by as it is even thinning out from the engine temperature, and that is where a engine seal will be a good remedy to keep you from doing a engine rebuild.

i had a burned valve less than a thousand miles ago so i pulled the head and had a valve job done. the car had this problem before the valve job and after. it runs fine except when it is sucking oil, then it misses badly. when you back out of the throttle it cleans up and runs like a champ.
is there something that could be stopping the oil from draining back into the pan allowing it to build up and then be sucked out of the valve cover into the intake?

Your rings have more than likely been going bad for a while now, especially with hard driving on the freeway 70 miles an hour on an engine if your valve guides were the culprit, usually...usually...you'll get a lot more blue smoke at start up, and it will gradually diminish; also, if you get blue smoke while ACCELERATING, that's usually rings...if you get huge clouds of blue smoke while DECELERATING, that could be guides. So when you get a high vacuum situation (closed throttle plate) you'll tend to suck oil past the guides, but in a low vacuum situation (throttle to floor) you'll tend to pump oil through the oil rings.

Another sign of bad rings is blow-by, which is that chimney smoking effect you get at idle, where you can see puffs of smoke coming through the oil cap on top of the engine---
A thicker grade of oil will always tell you as this smoking will acually cease at the higher speeds.
I have blown many a 100,000 plus engine doing 70 on the freeway and this smoke is usually tthe tell tale, right before the chunks start apearing in the rearview mirror and the power is lost forever.
I would say the rings are going and a simple compression leak down test will give you the best info on that and will be worth the time.

you didnt answer my question about the oil not draining back to the pan, could something like that be the problem

It could be the exhaust valve oil seal wants replacing! blue smoke means oil is comming down the valve stem and going into the exhaust: black smoke is where oil is beening burnt in the cylinders i hope this helps. Its sounds like is leaking from the valve cover gasket and then intering through a bad place in your intake gasket or a bad seal on top somewhere. I should still be draining back to your pan just keep an eye on the oil pressure if its bad than its being blocked.
Heavychevy

Hello
Just doing a follow up to check on the progress of your Metro. Feel free to contact anytime. If you are satisfied please click the ok button. Have a nice day.
Thank you
heavychevy

if you will go back and read all my questions and the answers given you will see that my question has not been answered to my satisfaction. i told you that i had a head job done which includes new valve guides and you tell me i need new valve guides. it did the same thing before the valve went bad. it runs fine dosent smoke a bit ever unless running at 70 mph occasionally.
i am not satisfied and would like a refund of my money please.
i haveent asked up to now because i had open heart surgery on the 16th. i am doing fine thank you.
please let me know about the status of my refund.

If you are able to, I would pull the valve cover and look for the oil drainback holes in the top of the cylinder head, and check for any blockages. I would then focus on the valve cover itself and the baffle in it that is supposed to prevent liquid oil from exiting through the pcv valve. Older cars sometimes used a screen to help stop any oil that made its way out before it went back into the air intake; Maybe this engine had one but it's missing?
The higher engine speed at 70 mph causes a lot more splashing of oil, even in the top end, but the pressure should not be high unless excessive blow-by overcomes the vacuum of the pcv system. All the other suggestions given were very good, especially the leakdown test. BUT, even a piston's compression ring can be good and still have a poor oil control ring (or set of rings) below it... It may not be worth tearing into an engine that runs well and uses no oil below 70 mpg. Even a very small amount of oil looks like a whole lot when burned in a cylinder.

Is this a manual transmission, I'm cursious if it ever smokes at lower speeds.

Try pulling the spark plugs after a good smoke show and see if all plugs are burning oil.

How much oil are you using? These cars had trouble with the map sensors, please confirm the smoke is blue and not black.

it is a manual tranny. they are all burning oil because as i told you several times the oil is being sucked out of the valve cover and into the intake under the aircleaner. i know this because it leaves a bunch of oil under the aircleaner. the smoke is blue not black and it dosent use any oil at all if i stay away from freeway speeds.

this is my last response. this site said that if i was not satisfied i would get my money back. by reading all of our canversations you will see that your answers were unsatisfactory and redundent and that the last ones took weeks. please refund my money ASAP and i will look elsewhere for help.

1994 GEO Metro All Part Groups   

I have a 1994 Geo Metro, automatic.
Problem in last 6 months:
The car won't start when left in a sunny, hot place.
The car won't start after 1-2 hour driving in the city.

So what do we do ? We raise the hood to "cool it off" for 20-40 minutes. It ALWAYS enables restarting.

However, today we were surprised as the car didn't start already in the morning. It was not hot, 55 F.
We raised the hood for 40 minutes and it did start.

We would try replacing the ignition switch, but they are no longer available for the 1994 Geo Metro. (The dealership indicated that only the switch for the 1994 would work.) Our mechanic cannot find a fix for it.

ps.
We have replaced the battery, battery cable, starter (3 times since June 2007).
When the car won't start, we do hear a "click" when turning the key, and the lights don't dim at that point either.

Hello
I know this sounds simple and a little weird but had this problem come accross in the shop,if you do not turn the key fully, the car will start. If you wind up turning the key all the way, it will just act dead. I didnt belive it when my one of my mechanics pointed it out but please just try.
Heavychevy

Hi,

the trick works only when the car is cold - turning the key slowly as you advised will help to ignite.
But if the car is warm, it doesn't work,
ignition "clicks", but nothing else happens.

Is there a more permanent fix for this ?

Jane

Changing out the switch is gonna be your best bet. I would try to find one online or at a junkyard ebay probly be a good site.

Hello
Just doing a follow up to check on the progress of your Metro. Feel free to contact anytime. If you are satisfied please click the ok button. Have a nice day.
Thank You
Heavychevy

1993 GEO Metro Fuel System Leaking Happens always Always

I have just bought a 93 Geo metro off of ebay and it was stated that the fuel line needs to be replaced because when it is started it leaks, how hard is this job and where do you aquire the nesessary parts?

You can purchase the A fuel line at nany auto parts store take your old line in to the store and get the same length.
It should be fairly simple to replace
Not a tough job at all just inportant to have the right diameter
Hope this helps

Thank you for your hasty reply and i will go to a napa store or equivolent and try and do it to get on the road.

You are welcome I hope it all goes well
Let me know how it works out
Macconneck

1993 GEO Metro Engine   

Inherited a 1993 Geo metro, auto, 3 cyl, from my father. He had replaced the engine, but it never started. He put in a carburated engine, but the car has an electric fuel pump in the tank. Can this be? Aren't all '93's fuel injected? How can I tell what was was the original engine?

Hello, Yes all the GEO Metro cars are fuel injected from 1988 to 1993 and on. A 1.0L engine.

To get a carburated 1.0L engine it is likely it came out of a Sprint. Years 1[redacted] Sprint came with the carb.

Engines are stamped with an engine identification serial number which identifies the model year, engine displacement and engine type.

What is your email address please? I'll try to send you a chart that may help you.

The fuel pressure for fuel injection may be too high for a carburator. And a computer is seldom needed for a two barrel carb.

What do you want to do here?

Roger

Thanks for the good information, My email address is
[redacted] . The table will be helpful. I will assume I can still use the block and head and just put on a fuel injector manifold.
Thanks again.

Please let me know how well the chart came through. I hope you can use it. If font is too small, please advise.

Roger

I sent the table/chart a second time as when I looked at what you sent to me there was no useful data to view.

Roger

1993 GEO Metro Engine   

Consistently overheats; have to add water every few miles as it has boiled out. Have replaced the thermostat and the temp sensor. Radiator fan works (tested it by contacting straight to the battery), but not sure if it is coming on.

Hello, When the car is overheating do you see the cooling fan running? That is a must know to continue...

Roger

No, I have not seen the fan running at all. The strange thing is I replaced the radiator fan temp switch. Could it be defective?

Is this switch the one with the Black/White and Blue wires in the connector?

Fusible Link B, radiator fan fuse and IGN fuse in the fuse block must be good. Are they?

If so, but the cooling fan doesn't run:

Disconnect the cooling fan thermoswitch and put a fused jumper between the Black/White and Blue wires. If the cooling fan operates with the ignition on, replace the cooling fan thermoswitch. If the fan doesn't operate:

Remove the cooling fan relay. Connect a fused jumper wire between cooling fan relay connector terminals No.2 (White/Green wire) and No.4 (Blue/Red wire). If cooling fan does not operate with ignition on check White/Green wire (convertible) or Blue/Red wire (hardtop) between the fuse box and the cooling fan relay. If okay check the Blue/Red wire between the relay and the cooling fan motor. Repair wiring as needed.

If cooling fan still won't run check the ground wires (Black wires) for the cooling fan relay and the cooling fan motor.

Have you tried a different cooling fan relay?

Roger

Yes, it is the one with the black/white and blue wires. I put a jumper on those two with the ignition on and the fan works fine. Sooooo, I guess I need to replace that thermoswitch that the wires are connected to.

That would be my next move. But, isn't that the one you replaced?

Roger

Yes, but then I replaced virtually all the sensors (thermostat, temp sensor next to the radiator fan thermoswitch, the radiator fan thermoswitch itself, and the coolant--after flushing the system). That is why I can only imagine that the thermoswitch I put in was defective. So, I have ordered two of these (they were cheap and on close-out at $9.50 each online). They should be here in about a week and I will see if that solves the problem. Any other suggestions or input? Thanks for your help.

What I would really like to do is get your email address. What I have in mind is to scan all the information offered in the data base that I use and send it to you for your review.

Reviewing the information may be best just to be sure I left nothing out of the diagnostics. Should give you the assurance we are on the right road here.

May I have your email address please? When I send the email please check your inbox and also junk/spam mail to be sure you find the file.

Roger

Of course; it is [redacted]
Again, thank you for ALL your efforts.
Dave

Thank you, I'll need 15 minutes to put this together and send it to you.

Roger

Email has been sent.

Roger

Roger,
Thank you so much. When I get back later this evening I will go over it. Have a great weekend.
Dave

Should you need something else, please ask.

Roger

Roger, sorry to bother again. I installed the new thermoswitch, and the fan operates properly. However, the car still overheats every couple of miles, with the coolant fluid boiling out all the time. When I open the hood to add water (with the engine running), the fan is going like gangbusters, but the coolant is coming out the overflow tube. I CAREFULLY remove the radiator cap and pour more distilled water or 50/50 in. I have the heater going full blast when I drive. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Have you considered the radiator cap may not be holding pressure? If not holding pressure the coolant boiling point will not be raised.

Possibility exsists that radiator is stopped up/restricted. Or if compression is leaking into the cooling system (head gasket problem) the car will overheat quickly.

Are you confident all of the air has been bled out of the cooling system?

Roger

The radiator cap does not seem to be leaking (however, I would be happy to replace it to eliminate it as a potential source of the problem). As for the compression leak; I don't FEEL a difference in the power or notice any change in noise, but that might not mean anything.

How do I bleed any air out of the system?

Which engine? 1.0L or 1.3L? Do you see coolant flow in the radiator with the cap off and the engine warm enough for the thermostat to have opened? Is the upper radiator hose hot to the touch?

Did you notice the thermostat you installed having an air bleed valve near the rim? If so, was the bleed valve installed at the 12:00 o'clock position?

What I do is to fill the radiator when the engine is cool until it is full even after waiting for the fluid level to settle.

Install the radiator cap turning it just far enough for the safety tabs to engage but not lined-up with the overflow tube.

Next, I add coolant to the full when cold mark on the overflow resivoir. Set the heater and blower fan on max heat. Start the engine and observe the coolant level in the resivoir rising as the engine warms up.

Raise the engine speed slightly to say 1200 - 1500 rpm. Watch the air bubble up through the resivoir and the coolant level rise until you see is begin to fall as coolant is drawn into the engine. (thermostat opens) Add coolant to the resivoir to maintain the full cold level.

This rise and fall of the coolant level should occur two or even three times before it stays at a steady level. When the level is steady, lock the radiator cap on completely. Top off the resivoir to the full hot mark. Ensure the heater is blowing full hot.

Road test the car and upon return add coolant to the resivoir if needed.

If all this results in the engine overheating please advise.

Roger

I have the 1.0L. The thermostat does not seem to have that air bleed valve. However, I will ask what is the proper direction to install the thermostat? Is it with the copper colored (what appears to the the heat sensor) pointed toward the engine or the radiator?

PS I found out that while the fan does come on just when it is about to go into the red, that the upper radiator hose is not hot. I DID find out the correct way to have th thermostat installed (with the spring and sensor toward the engine), did that, and retested. It overheated and there was no hot upper radiator hose. Does the thermostat need replacing? Thanks.

When the thermostat opens you should note the upper radiator hose to be hot and if there is room enough to see into the radiator cap filler neck........ coolant circulation should be flowing.

The thermostat can be tested by placing it in heated water to see if it opens at the rated temperature. Most guys won't bother to test it. They just replace it. Or, try running the engine with no thermostat installed inside the housing.

I can't help but wonder now if the water pump impeller is working. Thats why it is important to determine if coolant flows when the thermostat is believed to have opened.

If the thermostat opens but there is no flow through the radiator of course it will overheat. If the thermostat doesn't open fully (or at all) coolant flow is restricted or blocked....engine overheats.

I believe you have the electrical worked out for the cooling fan. Now we need to find the mechanical cause of the overheating.

Roger

Roger, I think we have liftoff! After replacing the thermostat (AGAIN, as I replaced apparently a defective new one, AND as I also replaced a defective NEW thermoswitch), the upper hose is now hot. I added 50/50 mix (it was way down), and drove about 2-3 miles with no problem, whereas before I could count on it getting hot within about 1/2 mile. So, assuming you don't hear from me in the next day or so it appears to be fixed. THANK YOU! Dave

Wow. Who could believe the odds of two defective brand new parts on the same car, same system, would be sold to the same person?

When you are ready to close this question please click on OK to finish up.

Roger

Went to my sister's tonight and all was well. The only thing is it will go ALL the way to the red zone before the thermostat opens, but then it cools back down very quickly (back to "normal" which is a hair over the middle spot on the white "normal" range). So, I guess it is all OK. Thanks again. This has been a mystifying journey for me with the defective parts, but I am grateful for your help. it made troubleshooting the process a very logical and productive effort. You and your system is by far the most cost-effective money I have spent on remedying my problem. Thank you.

Thank you for the opportunity to guide you. You didn't quit trying and that's what it takes for success with auto repairs. It can be daunting at times!

When you are ready to close this question please click on OK to finish up.

Roger

1992 GEO Metro Drive Train / Driveline   

I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHAT TAKES PLACE WHEN A SHOP REPLACES THE CLUTCH IN THE 1992 GEO METRO? DO THEY HAVE TO TAKE OUT THE ENGINE TO REPLACE IT?

Hi:
Most shops will take the transmiisionout of it. Good Luck Les.

1992 GEO Metro Ignition System Won't Start Happens always No pattern

Just installed a "new" used engine in my metro. New plugs, cap, rotor, wires. Have double checked all electrical connections. I do not get spark when I turn over the engine. Checked resistance on the pick up in the distributor, it is within specs. (140-180 ohms) Is the pick up the problem? Or am I missing something?

The specs don't always mean a lot, when the specs are way off it can prove the pick up coil is bad, but when the specs are 'on' it only means it potentially may be good. Do you have a distributor from the old engine to swap if necessary?

Have you checked trouble codes?

Have you done basic voltage checks-
Turn the key on (verify the check engine light comes on as it normally does). With key still on- Connect one end of dc voltmeter to a known good ground and the other end to the positive wire on the coil. You should have battery voltage (12v). If you don't check fuses, battery cables, ground straps, etc.

1992 GEO Metro Ignition System   

Car has very little pep going up hills...can hear preignition ping even on the flat. Car idles fairly well...all plugs appear to be firing. Does this car have a vacuum advance? With the engine warmed up I have loosened the oil fill cap and there appears to be very little blowby. I am evaluating it for purchase and know very little about otherwise.

Hello, Is this one fuel injected or have a carb?

It's only a 1 Liter engine so it won't be powerful, just effecient.

Things that effect power are restricted exhaust, a loose/defective knock sensor, improper valve lash adjustment, vacuum leaks, engine tune-up status, dragging brakes, restricted fuel flow, too much engine oil in the crankcase, dirty air filter, low tire pressure, throttle linkage adjustments, and front end alignment.

Improper timing setting, excessive carbon build-up in the combustion chambers and incorrect spark plug type, gap and heat range effect ping on acceleration up hills.

Do you see a vacuum advance vacuum line connecting to the distributor? If so the car has a vacuum advance.

Any help?,

Roger

Sorry I did not get back immeadiately but I am viewing this car with the intention of buying it...

It has a carburator. The air filter is fairly clean.

There is no vacuum line to the distributor.

I could find no knock sensor loose connections or otherwise. The owner said the loss of power came on gradually. This has an automatic transmission. I believe I can hear either a bad leftrear bearing or a brake shoe dragging.

I removed each plug wire and all resulted in identical results while idleing.

Sorry this is so piece-meal but...

John

We are down to checking the timing and also the exhaust system. A restricted exhaust system won't let the engine breathe properly.

Roger

1992 GEO Metro Electrical / Lighting Systems   

My front headlights keep flickering on and off...now they don't come on at all..it's just the front headlamps everything else works never seen anything like this?...Ed

Hello, The headlamp switch assembly usually has a circuit breaker built in. In the event of a sort circuit the breaker will cycle off/on to allow the car's driver enough light to pull over.

Have you verified power arrives at the headlamp switch?

Roger

1992 GEO Metro All Part Groups   

i had a machine shop replace all my lifters on my 92 Geo metro with a 1.0 engen on it, but when it was put back together the front seal on the cam shaft keeps cumin off, next thin you know you oil all over the place like theirs back pressure or something pushing the oil seal out,Wat can be the problem ?the seal has being replace two times already and its still doing it Wat happen?

Hello,

During reassembly of the cam to the cylinder head it is critical to ensure camshaft housing #1 be securely installed first. Camshaft housing #1 retains the camshaft in the proper position as to thrust direction.

There are marks provided on each camshaft housing indicating position and direction for installation.

Sealant was to be applied to the mating surfaces of #1 & #3 housings which mate with the cylinder head. After applying oil to the housing bolts they were to be installed and tightened temporarily. Then tighten in proper sequence a little at a time until you reach the proper torque of 8 ft. lbs.

When installing the camshaft seal after first applying engine oil to the oil seal lip, press fit the camshaft oil seal until the oil seal surface becomes flush with the housing surfaces.

How carefully were these steps followed?

Roger

don't know if the meshing shop fallow dos steps but i will do fallow up on it. thank

Please update when you can.

Roger

hello roger

but if these steps were taking during reassembling of the camshaft, what else can forcing the oil seal to slide of the camshaft?

Hard for me to speculate where a guess would hit the mark.

Camshaft housing #1 has the task of maintaining the proper camshaft position as to thrust direction. (meaning keeping the camshaft from shifting with an end-to end movement) Thrust movement could dislodge the seal.

How tightly does the new seal fit the bore? Was the bore clean and dry and the seal's outer metal edge clean and dry prior to assembly? Does the seal installation tool fit the seal properly so as not to distort the seal during the installation process?

The seal is to be pressed-in until flush with the head. Has the seal been pressed-
in, or driven in with a hammer?

Your machine shop should be liable and find the cure. Are they refusing to stand behind their work?

Do these thoughts help? I couldn't find a relevant technical service bulletin on this subject.

Roger

hello roger

i took the head back to the machine shop and are looking into why the oil seal keeps cumming of the camshaft,i cant wait for them to tell me whats causing the oil seal to came of the came shaft housing ,i will keep you posted as to what the found out?thanks.

I'm looking forward to the report. Thanks!

Roger

Please advise if you need anything else. If you are ready to close this question just click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

Hello Roger,
Yes i got a call from the machine shop saying that the reason way the seal kept coming off the camshaft was when the cylinder head was put back together after the lifters were replaced, some how the the oil port got plugged up with either silicon or some other foreign object ,and that's the reason why the seal kept coming off! There was to much back pressure.

How did this all work to your good? It sounds like human error but you sure had some inconvenience. That's not good business if you keep getting the bill.

Ready to close this question? Please click on OK to finish up.

Thanks alot,

Roger

1991 GEO Metro Ignition System Won't Start Happens sometimes Always

The car clicks when you try to start it, the relays click also. I replaced everything in the ignition system, starter, cables,battery, wiring harness to switch.... nothing I finally took it to some idiot shop who got it to crank sometimes by puting in the wiring harness to the ignition switch, but he also installed some on and off switch related to the fuel pump that he says I must turn off when it gets going.I will never go there again. Way too much hassel,but I want it fixed right and I dont want to pay another shop. I am very handy but I need to be pointed in the right direction. How can I restore this thing back to normal.I got the book.Are there any relays I could check or replace?? Does it seem to have a short somewhere? The engine is very strong.

Hello, Do you have a wiring diagram for the starting system in the book that you have?

If not, please provide an email address and I will send you one.

What series Metro do you have please? Auto or standard transmission?

Roger

Hi Roger, thanks for the quick response. The car is the 1991 Geo Metro Convert LSI with A/C and Automatic tranny. I have the book with all elect diagrams. I have a multimeter and know how to use it. Can you point me in the right direction? Thanks- Dave

Dave, Unplug the BLK/YEL wire from the starter solenoid and connect the positive lead from your meter to the wire.

With the transmission first in Park and then in Neutral perform the following test:

Connect/touch the negative lead from your meter to the battery negative post. Have someone turn the key to the start position. What DC voltage do you read?

Test the battery voltage with your meter and compare the findings with the above paragraph. Are they the same?

What relays do you hear clicking when you first wrote your question?

Roger

Hi Rodger, I did the test like you described and both the park and neutral readings were the same ... 12.13 to 12.15. The relays that I heard clicking were the smaller black relays on fenderwall near the battery. I took all of them out and cleaned all the connections as well and same thing. Intermitant clicking at the solenoid sometimes it will turn sometimes no. and now I have a gas supply problem with flooding out the system I believe. Help, Help, Help .

All right, the ignition switch is outputting power to turn on the starter solenoid.

It sounds like the voltage is getting to the starter but there are not enough amps to do work (engage the starter).

Time to take a good look at the battery cable connections at both ends of each cable. Is the engine grounded to the block? Does the negative cable connect to the engine and the body? Are the ground connection points clean and tight?

Did you dismantle the "..... but he also installed some on and off switch related to the fuel pump"??

Roger

OK, Rodger, I checked and rechecked the battery cables when I replaced both of them last week.Everything is clean and tight. What is next? Do I take off the switch that this guy put on?How about the relays, why do they click when the the solenoid clicks. Is that normal or a sign that they are indeed working?- Dave

Yes, I believe to diagnose the car correctly any aftermarket modifications should be removed. Such modifications will not have support info in any manufacturer's repair trouble charts or shop manuals.

I have no idea what that shop has done here.

My wiring diagram for the starting system does not show how the engine controls work. I need to expand my research to include the engine controls to determine which relays are in play.

Do you know which relays are clicking? Fuel pump? Wish I had a car to look at to compare!

Roger

Is your engine the 1.6L or the 1.8L? Fuel injected? Carbureator?

Roger

The motor is the 1.0 liter 3 cylinder. I can send you a picture of the relay setup if you wish. But I will remove the switch the shop put on so we can accurately diagnose the problem. - Dave

Oh boy, I need to regroup. I'm not even on the right page!

Roger

Ok, The two relays that click are the main relay and the fuel pump relay. They are identical.

The fuel pump relay wire colors are Pink, Pink/Wht, Wht/Blu and Wht/Blu.

I'll try for a better description of the role of the engine controls on these relays and whatever else is energized when the key is turned to START.

Thank you for your patience.

Roger

Thanks Rodger I am going to buy new relays anyway to rule them out. Let me know what you find out. - Dave

Ok, However since the relays click we can believe they are being energized and I believe that to be a good thing.

Now, what they power up when energized..... is what I'm chasing.

Roger

Please bear with me. I have a superficial blood clot in my left leg and have side stepped for medical treatment.

You may release the question if you need to. I may need a day or two.

It's not serious but trips to the hospital are getting in the way.

Roger

TAKE CARE I WILL WAIT AND KEEP YOU POSTED: I AM GOING OOVER EVERYTHING AGAIN. THANKS_DR

Remember when you tested for battery voltage at the BLK/YEL wire removed from the starter solenoid and got 12 VDC with the key turned to start in Park and Neutral?

Everthing from the starter back to the ignition switch checked out or you would not have had the 12 volt reading. The ignition switch commanded the starter solenoid to engage the starter and the command was received at the starter.

Is the starter you installed a new one? The starter case is the ground path to the engine block and there should be a ground wire from the engine to the car body and a second one (the negative battery cable) back to the battery.

When you removed the other starter did you find shims between the starter case and the engine? If yes,did you transfer them to the new starter?

Will the starter work with a remote start switch connected?

Was the old starter bench tested and proven bad?

Roger

The old starter was proven bad at three different places. Then I took it to the starter shop and he rerbuilt it and after it still didn't start I took it back to double check and he benched it again and it worked fine. I peeled back some of that blk/yellow wire going to the started and connected a jumper to it and the pos batt terminal and it will turn over. It is still clicking today, no start. I also changed both battery cables. *** I did notice that the block appears to be aluminum and the negative batt cable was grounded to it. That did not make sense to me. But I figured since it was always that way it must be OK. Whats next???

Oh and there were no shims where the starter bolted up. Should there be??? The whole block seems to be aluminum I dont see how it could be grounded to that.

Will the engine start if the key is on and you jump power from the battery to the Blk/Yel wire you peeled the insulation on?

You stated it turned over so that proves the ground at the starter is good. Was the key on?

You had the ignition turned to start and found 12 volts at the Blk/Yel wire in a previous test but the starter just clicks, correct? I can't picture why!

If there were no shims used on the previous starter you should not expect that the new starter needs shims.

The battery negative cable grounded on an aluminium block is acceptable. It needs to be a clean and tight connection.

Roger

How sre you doing here please?

Roger

I am still in the process of testing . It will turn if I jump it from the batt to solenoid. I have decided to put in a new ignition switch.-dave

Thanks Dave. I look forward to your findings.

Roger

1991 GEO Metro Engine   

I have a 1991 Geo metro that I recently rebuilt the head. Every 100 miles or so it will emit out the exhaust pipe a cloud of blue smoke while driving at normal speed--usually within 15 minutes of start up. There is never any blue smoke other than that. Any ideas what is causing this.

Could be the valve seals and/or the oil drainback holes in the head.To see if the drainback holes are ok, pull the valvecover off and inspect them (it is poss to install headgaskets in the wrong way)
Also, were the the valve guides replaced in the rebuilt heads?
The blue smoke indicates oil, not coolant .

New valves and seals were installed--guides were not.

When head was rblt, anyone measure the valvestem diameter and compare it to the guide diameter?
Also check the PCV system. I once diagnosed that to be a problem with a 4 cyl Ford once.
It might not hurt to do a dry and a wet compression test also.

The valve guides were good on rebuild & a new PCV has been installed with no help. A dry compression test was run & results were between 130 -140 psi. Keep in mind the blue smoke from the exhaust happens only once every 100 miles or so right shortly after startup (usually within 10 minutes of 50 mph driving).It lasts for about 5-10 seconds & is smoke free until the next time. The vehicle is used daily putting on about 20 miles per day so the blue smokes happen once/week once aweek. once a w

I still have the feeling it is an 'oil drainback' problem. In time the oil up on top of head pools and collects then runs past the valveseals/guides.
The valve seal(s) might have gotten a slight nick on assy, and even though new, might be a problem

I pulled the air filter assembly off and noticed that the top of the throttle body had heavy oil residue covering it.

Usually that means a piston ring problem,Buy a few cans of air intake cleaner and see if that helps.

1990 GEO Metro Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

1990 Geo Metro headlights don't work in either dim or bright. All other lights do. Replaced fuses and headlights but didn't help. When I pull back the signal switch on the column, the headlights come on but go off again when I release. Checked 3 prong connection at headlight hookup and have voltage to all three prongs.

It sounds like the headlight switch itself.

Is there an easy way to remove the switch other than removing the dash pad and instrument cover?

Use the following site to access a repair guide for your car. You should take the switch to an auto parts store and test it against a new to confirm this is the problem.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

1989 GEO Metro Engine   

Hi, Thanks for your help. I have a 89 geo metro LSI with TBI fuel system. The engine bogs right down for a second before it starts to pull when i push gas pedal from idle condition or car stop condition. This happens when engine is cold or before it reach normal operating temperature. The engine start OK when it is cold or warm. But the idle speed is high most time.

I think the engine has two problems, one is bogging right down problem and second is higher speed idle.

When i push control lever (TBI) little bit fast, the engine bogs down for a second before starting pull.
When i plug (shuts off) the ISC(idle speed control) airflow, the idle is normal (850-900) steady. When i release the airflow suddenly, the bogging down symptom happen. When i release the airflow gradually, the engine run OK. Is the mixture rich or thin when the engine bogs down?

There is no trouble code in computer memory. I can see gasoline floor on plate and air valve by pass when the temperature is cold and relatively low gasoline flooring when it reach warm or normal operating temperature, but the idle is high because the ISC still open.

So what do you think about this problem? Appreciate your help and your time in advance.

Gary

Gary, the first thing I would check is a vacuum leak.Thie symptoms are correct for that.

OK! vacuum leak. What else do you think? Thanks!

Gary

Try to find vaccuum leak first, examine all hoses very careful. If hard or brittle, replace.I sometimes use an unlit propane torch to find leaks.When propane is sucked in by vac. leaks, the rpm goes up a little.

1989 GEO Metro Ignition System   

1989 GEO Metro, 1.0L 3-Cyl Turns over but won't start .

Starter & electrical are strong, engine will turn over forever, just won't fire.
Holding full gas pedal it will *almost* fire.

Good fuel flow into the throttle body.

Tried starting fluid into throttle body (probably didn't work due to injection)

Recent performance/work:
When it runs, it runs strong
Recently had a valve job (new plugs, cap/rotor, etc)
We got it back to the mechanic, and he could not locate any issues (fixed a loose plug wire)

Guesses...
Cold temp related? Recent heavy overnight dew/frost...
Fuel System? Good flow to throttle body, don't know how to check injectors... Water in lines? Doesn't run rough...
Intermittent electrical connection? Not sure best place to start, especially since the engine cranks so well.

Help?!
a e r o . j i m @ v e r i z o n . n e t
(remove spaces to reply directly to e-mail.

THANKS!

The first thing you need to do is check for spark at the plugs wires. Do you have consistant spark?

Starting fluid does work, but is dangerous especially if to much is used. Carburetor cleaner is preferred, one squirt (don't keep loading it up as a misfire/backfire can light it all at once).

When the engine is running, is the check engine light on at anytime?

Check your email shortly for additional information, 'Geo Metro' in the subject line.

Message sent to:

[redacted]

If this address is wrong reply back and I'll resend.

Thanks Douglas... we'll check the plugs...

Replied to your e-mail...

No "check engine light" when it is running.

I don't think we'll try the starting fluid/carb cleaner because when it does start it takes right off without any hesitation.

Thanks for the suggestions, I'll let you know!

1989 GEO Metro Electrical / Lighting Systems   

working on an 89 geo metro, no headlamps, found burnt wires at junction block, replace conector and now have high beam only, where is the low beam lights? head lamp switch replaced with known good one. light bulbs good. high/flash to pash/turn signal lever good. blinkers work. maybe fuse block. pleas help. no low beam head lamps.

These can be tough, but you have no choice but to follow a wiring diagram to pinpoint the problem.

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/1f/71/5[redacted] d[redacted] /repairInfoPages.htm

Copy and Paste the above link into your Address Bar.

If both are dead it is also hard to rule out the dimmer switch. Concentrate heavily in the area of damage already found. Take your time and you'll find the problem.

Thanks for telling me to take my time and i'll find the problem. That helped a lot. I know it is hard to diag a vehicle over the computer or the phone if you are not there, but, can I have my money back?. I'm going with the multi-function switch.

First get a wiring diagram (Haynes Shop Manual $15) and a 12 volt test light. Then check all the headlight related wiring including the ground circuits. Headlights do not use fuses. Usually fuseable links that you probably burned,or a circuit breaker in the headlight switch.Both probably good, but I would suspect the high beam switch (dimmer switch)