GEO Tracker

2007 GEO Tracker Engine   

A New Fuel Pump, Filters and Sensors. Gas Mileage Dropped Suddenly. No Leaks Visible. What Else can cause the Gas Mileage Loss?

Is the check engine light on? If so, that should be fixed.

If not, look for things like dragging brakes, transmission slipping, or not shifting properly, or anything else causing excessive friction.

I have Checked the Brakes, Installed a New Torque Convertor and there is No Drag on the Vehicle. I can Shift into Neutral at Any Speed and Feel No Drag Either. I am a Mechanic and am at my Whits End with this thing. The Check Engine Light was on and the Diagnostic was the Coolant Temp Sensor. I Replaced ALL the Snesors when the Gas Mileage Did Not Return. It was Suggested by the Dealer that the Torque Convertor had a Problem and was Replaced on Most of the 1994 Trackers, so I Replaced it Also. Any Assistance with this Headache is Appreciated. Thanks.

John

Where is the dealer warranty on this vehicle? What was the gas milage before and after the problem? Did the problem first occur when the check engine light came on? Have all the readiness monitors set? Is the o2 cycling normally, and what is the LTFT at idle, cruise and acceleration? Do you feel anything funny when driving it?

How is that for a list of question?? I am trying to get a broader overview/history on the truck.

LOL. Actually this is a Short List Compared to the Items I have Replaced Already. What is the LTFT? The Gas Mileage was 25.7 - 26.1 on the Highway and 22.4 - 22.9 in Town. The Mileage is a Little Over 10 MPG Now. I can go 83 Miles on 7 Gallons of Gas. My 87 K5 4X4 Blazer Gets 16.3 MPG. LOL. Its kinda Bad when a V8 Bored 30 Over and Cammed Gets Better Mileage than a Stock 4 Cylinder. Torque Convertor. I am Thinking the Injector May be the Problem Now. Just Really Looking for a Direction to Go. The components were Replaced at the Dealers Suggestion. The Engine has 129,000 and Runs Really Good. It has Plenty of Power and Idles Good. That is what has me stumped here. There is Really No Reason for this Mileage Problem. I Even Checked the Crankcase Oil for Gas Contamination and Found None. The Oil was Clean and No Gas Smell to it. I can Fill the Vehilcle Up and Actually Watch the Gauge Move Before I have Driven 20 Miles. I was Getting 250 Miles to a Tank (10gal) and Now a Little Over 100 is All I get. With the Price of Gas what it is, Im Driving the Blazer Until I Locate this Gas Mileage Problem. The gas has to be Going
Somewhere. I Appreciate the Help. Thanks.

John

John

LTFT = Long term fuel trim. This is seen on an OBII scanner. Also on the scanner, you can check if the readiness moniters have set. The o2 sensor should cycle from .2v-.8v or more. It should switch back and forth every 3 seconds or less at idle and every second or less at higher RPM.

Do you have a leak at the tank, or on a line somewhere? The engine CANNOT burn 2x the gas and still run well!

Did the problem first occur when the check engine light came on?

1999 GEO Tracker Fuel System   

96 geo tracker, approx 96K miles, auto, multiport injection 1.6L 16 valve- can put fresh plugs in and floods all 4. Snap-on computer can't catch a code and on-board does not fault out. fuel pressure and flow good. sensors test good, distrib checks good, static. made 1150 mile trip, 3 days later on 30 degree morning dies in less than a mile, no sputtering or smoke - just off. will turn over, clean plugs and will run some. will pull itself, can't crowd it. timing is right and belt is good.

Two things come to mind, the cam/crank sensor and the ingnition switch.

Never overlook a faulty connection at the battery, grounds, etc.

Have you checked the catalyctic converter? Might be partially plugged.Air/gas in , not out = flooding.

Hi, pretty sure the converter is ok. I was there day before, he tired to start it, 1st try it almost starts, second or third try you can tell it is flooded. It sometimes does not have a chance to start. I noticed also that the service engine light was not on with key on engine off. Also, I notice at the top it says 1999 geo, I was sure I selected 1996, wanted to be sure in case it made a difference. So far it seems like guesses. Is this not a problem that is usual for the tracker?
I am ok with carbs but not computer systems thanks

Ok first replace the check engine light in das, it is probably burned out.
If it does light up, then you have to check for codes.

perhaps a small ray of light here. I talked with the mech at the garage. He and I both feel it must be a ground issue. The service light will light with the scanner hooked in ( which is powered by the car as well ) so it must be grounding through the scanner to work. They looked at each ground to confirm they are in tact but are going to pull the computer out and test each wire since it seems one is broken inside, not visibly. Would there be a wiring diagram for the computer and dash that would help us track it? thanks

I found a site that has the wiring diagrams for the tracker. I started with the service lamp which I think is the malfunction indicator. the ground goes to the fuel gauge, temp gauge indicator a heated O2 sensor ( #2 ) and the data port. I think I know what, now if I can find where. I recall the fuel gauge not working totally right, not sure on temp BUT when he plugs in the car powered scanner, the light is on and I bet it runs too. Ever seen this and maybe have an idea where it could be broken? thanks mike

Sounds like a ground wire or connection.

Thanks - I am so glad you pointed that out

1997 GEO Tracker Fuel System Failing When starting Always

1997 Tracker 1.6 MFI. When I try to start the car the FI fuse 15amp, under the hood keeps blowing. Was intermittent now it won't start at all, just blows the fuses. Any ideas would help. Thanks, Howie

Hello, One of the first things that come to mind is the fuel pump may have a short. To isolate it you can remove the fuel pump relay so the pump cannot be energized and again try to start. It won't start...but did your FI fuse blow again, or not?

Please advise,

Roger

Roger, Thanks for the reply. Maybe I should have mentioned that the fuse blows as soon as I turn the key on. (Not sure if that makes a difference or not)I have a Chiltons manual on a CD and it shows the relay to be mounted on the heater under the dash. There are 3 of them there. 1 has writing on the side that says it's for the turn signals and 4 way flashers, then there are 2 below that. Any idea which one it is? The 2 that are there are identical. I suppose I could pull them one at a time and see what happens. My other question is if the fuse doesn't blow, could it be the relay instead of the pump. Thanks, Howie

Howie, The moment your key is on the fuel pump should run for a couple seconds to pressure-up the fuel rail for engine start. If your Tracker blows the fuse during the first couple seconds it's very likely the pump has a short. Can you get to the connector for the pump and unplug it? It should be near the fuel tank in plain sight. If disconnected and the fuse remains good that will check the relay and related wiring back to the connector. From there you can believe the pump to be shorted.

It's doubtful the relay is shorted but you can just pull the two you talked about at the same time, turn the key on and plug them back in one at a time to see which one clicks before the fuse blows. The best test is in the previous paragraph as it will check the circuit from the power source to the nearest point prior to the pump.

Roger

Hello, Still need help here?

Thanks,

Roger

1997 GEO Tracker Electrical / Lighting Systems   

back up lights won't come on. lamps tested good. all other lights work

Asuming that the fuses are all good, check the wiring and the switch.
Auto trans, the switch located in the console, if equipped with one. If column shift, switch located at the base of steering column by your feet.
If std trans, switch located on transmission by shifter levers.Common for std trans wire to become unplugged when hit by branches, snow or ice.It will look like a sensor with aprox 18mm hex and a plug with 2 wires.

1997 GEO Tracker Fuel System   

The truck will not accelerate to any speed? It seems that the throttle is not working properly?

The vehicle has no power and will stall out if you don't keep your foot on the gas pedal?

It sounds like you have a bad vacume leak or or the hoses on your thottle body are not tight.
check your air intake duct and your pcv valve hose particually

In case you didn't receive my reply I noted that unless there is a vaccume line that is not visable,or else I've also noticed that when I unplug the one electrical connection on the air intake duct that the vehicle doesn't seem to stall as much?

Also where is the PCV located on the engine?

what size engine do you have?
It would located coming out of thw air intake or duct and entering into the valve cover.
As for that electrical connector can you tell me what it is hooked up to and mounted on so I can locate the part?

Is your check engine light coming on at anytime while the engine is running?

Oh Boy!! This system is a pain in the A--!

I wrote that the engine size is a 4 cyl. 1.6 or 1.8

I also wrote that the check engine light has been on for some time and it has never affected how the vehicle has been running!!

I also wrote that the electical plug in is one of two located on the air intake duct. It is the larger of the two plug ins and it is grey in color..
We don't seem to be getting anywhere with my problem? All you have been doing is asking me some incedental questions, The vehicle has NO POWER, and the accelorator doesn't respond the way it should??

My wife told me that the car was lacking power so I assumed it needed to be tuned-up.

At present I have repaced the spark plugs the ignition wires the distributor cap and I put a new air filter in. I had the air intake duct off of the engine and I'm sure I replaced all the vacuum lines as they were.

I think to go back and forth with this Q&A stuff is a waste of time!! I hope you can suggest somthing of value when you write back

1997 GEO Tracker Engine   

I have two problems. First, the engine is leaking coolant, I had the water pump replaced a few months ago and it wasn't as bad now I have to fell tha coolant reservior every day. Second the transmission will not shift unless the engine is warmed up, and the car appers to pulse when driving.

If you cannot find coolant leak,getting a shop to do a pressure test is cheap.
White smoke at all at tailpipe?
Transmission an automatic or standard?

No smoke out the tail pipe.

Automatic tranmission.

The pulse could be the transmission surging.Check fluid. Must be clean, translucent red.Must also be correct level.
If fluid dirty, it should be proffessionally flushed.
Carefully examine the hoses and their connections, tighten clamps. Check oil for milkiness. Look at radiator carefully with a light, frt and back. Any greenish color anywhere? Carpet wet under dash?
Find a sheet of cardboard as big as possible, (5 ft square if poss) out under engine. Run vehicle look for wet spot. That much coolant loss should be easy to find!

1996 GEO Tracker Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start When starting 

I went to start my Tracker this AM, and I have nothing.I tried to jump it but still nothing. Does a 1996 Tracker have a fusable link that may have blown.I have check the 80amp fuse for the engine but it looks ok. Any suggestions.

Hello, first I would ask is your transmission an automatic or manual shift? If auto, cycle the shift lever to neutral and back to park. Retry to start. Try starting in neutral.

If manual trans., pump the clutch while you hold the key in 'start' (trans. in 'neutral').

If still won't start, disconnect the negative battery cable first and then the positive cable. Clean/inspect the cable ends and the battery posts too. Does the battery leak acid at either post? If so replace the battery. If not, reconnect the battery pos. cable, then the neg. cable, and retry.

Please advise your results for further if needed..

Roger

I have an automatic shift. When I turn the key on, I can not get the shift out of park, also my steering colunm is not lock like to normally would be when I turn off the ignation. My battery terminals are clean, with no battery acid. at all. Any suggestion.

Scott Myers. and thank you for your response.

Doesn't your vehicle require stepping on the brake with the ignition 'on' to release the shift lever from Park? Can you hear a click at the bottom of the steering column when you step on the brake? (A solenoid activates to release the shifter.)

The steering column doesn't lock? Can you get the key out? Sounds like a gear assembly inside the steering column (called a rack) could be broken, or the ignition lock cylinder itself is broken and the gear on the lock cylinder won't turn the rack to lock/unlock the steering column. If this rack doesn't move when the key is turned, the ignition switch is not actuated. You'll need a professional to repair such a failure.

Do you have electrical power to lights, horn, etc?

Roger

Did you get this puppy going?

Please advise,

Roger

Yes my car is fine now. I did some further checking of my systems, and when I removed my battery found a small crack in it. I put a meter to it and found it to be dead. I replaced the battery and now the car is fine.

Well alrighty then...by asking if you had power to lights/horn, etc., a bad battery is where I was hoping to lead you. I'm glad you found your answer.

Please close this question out and give us a chance should your Tracker leave you walking again,.ok? Thanks!

Roger

1996 GEO Tracker Fuel System Stalling Happens always Always

The Tracker starts after many turns and with the gas pedal to the floor.
After I get it started with the gas pedal to the floor it only gets up to about 400 rpm no faster. Very gradually I can remove my foot off the gas pedal and it will idle for a few minutes then start to sputter.
I have replaced: plugs, wires, rotor, cap, o2 sensor rear, ECM, installed used fuel tank from another running tracker to confirm fuel pump, removed and bench cleaned the fuel injectors, ohm tested fuel injectors, checked and cleaned EGR valve, ohm tested TPS.
After all this I still can’t get it to run, but I haven’t given up yet.
I should mention this vehicle has Multiport fuel injection.
With some guidance I hope to fix it.
Thanks

Hi,
I would first use a spark tester to verify that the spark will jump 3/4 inch strongly at the plug end of the spark plug wire. Weak spark could give you the symptom you experience.

Secondly, I would add a bit of fuel (starting fluid) to the intake while it is running poorly to determine if lack of fuel is causing the problem.

Thirdly, I would look at the check engine light and any codes stored on the computer.

Fourthly, I would check the timing belt and spark timing to make sure they are right.

1) Checked spark and it looks pretty good on all 4 plugs.
2) With any part of the air intake off I can't get it to start just a sputter or two. So I reconnect the hoses and it'll start barely, so now I can't spray starting fluid into the intake.
3) ECM codes, when the problem started I had a P0300
[P0300 OBD code indicates a random or multiple misfire.] Now with a rebuilt ECM installed no codes present.
4) With it running poorly I check with timming light and it's about right, meaning it's close considering it's idling badly.
I also have taken the exhaust off to check for blockage but all clear. back on now.

J.SCott

Good background work! Now we need to confirm if it is not getting enough fuel. You could check fuel pressure. That will tell about the pump, filter and regulator, but not the injector, wiring or driver. Will it start up and run a bit better with a shot of starting fluid?

1996 GEO Tracker Engine   

I recently had my 1996 Geo Tracker's engine rebuilt, new pistons,rings,valves, bearings, oil pump, water pump and related gaskets etc.

Now when I drive the car at a steady rate of speed 15 to 17 mph, the motor hesitates and the tach jumps between 15 - 2000 rpms. I have taken the Geo back to the mechanic several times and he is having difficulty determining the problem.

Any Suggestions?

John F Knaul
jfknaul@roadrunner.com
(951) 303-0484

Most likely your problem is not directly related to the mechanic's work. It sounds like some external control is giving problems.

I would try to watch the parameters with a scanner to see if there are any unusual readings on the computer. things that couldbe checked, try shifting the transmission into gear one or two and see if it gives the same symptom at a different speed. If it still is at 15-17, then it is a speed sensor/computer problem. If it goes a way, it could be a load issue, and if it changes to a different speed, such as 5 or 10 mph, then you may have an engine speed issue, such as a failing crank sensor, cam sensor, computer, or ignition control.

Could it be the Thottle Body Sensor?

It could the the fuel injector, but I would run these other simple tests before buying parts.

1996 GEO Tracker Drive Train / Driveline   

I changed the throw out bearing everything seems to be ok there,but i have alot of play in the gear shifter.I have 2nd 4th reverse but cant get 1st 3rd 5th.Is there a bushing that goes on the end of the shift rod ball that maybe fell off when i pulled it off.I cant even shift to 1st 3rd 5th if I use a screw driver.I'm thinking maybe something maybe is in the tranny

There is a white nylon ball or bushing that goes on the end of the shifter.GM Dealer only
is source of this.

1996 GEO Tracker Engine   

replaced cracked exhaust manifold, now car has a hard time reaching 50mph and jerks. i/m monitors shows (catalyst)(oxygen sensor)(exhaust gas rec) all not ready. No codes pop up and (MIL) is off. What could be the problem?

Sounds like an O2 sensor problem.With a digital volt/ohm meter test the voltage at the O2 with car runnung.The reading should be aprox .5 volts with spikes to .8 and .3. If the spikes are slow (should be rapid) then O2 bad. If little voltage fluctuations...replace
Also disconnect battery for a while to reset comouter.

Where do I connect my test leads?

One to ground the positive side to the O2 wire.The O2 is close to engine so it should not be the heated type (3 wire as opposed to 1 wire)

I checked 02 sensors,scan tool does'nt pull up any codes. I/M moniters shows catalyst and EGR not ready. When I try to drive car it is hard to reach 50mph and it blows the bottom hose off the EGR modulator going to the EGR by-pass valve.Car jerks when not at idle. Could the EGR by-pass valve or cat converter be bad. How do you check?

Sep 2/10 3:16PM: "I checked 02 sensors,scan tool does'nt pull up any codes. I/M moniters shows catalyst and EGR not ready. When I try to drive car it is hard to reach 50mph and it blows the bottom hose off the EGR modulator going to the EGR by-pass valve.Car jerks when not at idle. Could the EGR by-pass valve or cat converter be bad. How do you check

Cat convertor can be tested with temperature guage or just disconnected to test.There are some companys that make cat test pipes that replace the cat convertor.
A common egr problem is carbon buildup under
the valve itself that causes it to stick.
Try to test the O2 function with a digital volt meter.The proper readings should be .5 volts with rapid spikes from .3 to .8 volts.
Slow or stable voltage means bad O2.
Some scan tools do not pickup all codes.

1995 GEO Tracker Fuel System   

Got a 1995 tracker 16 valve manual. After a few minutes of driving it will start jerking like its not geting any fuel and about to die. Changed spark plugs and fuel filter no improvement.There is a clicking under the dash sounds a lot like a turn signal (prob a fuel relay). this happens in nuetral too I will rev egine up it will cutt out at about 2000 rpm if it is the relay is there anything else that would cause it to click and if it is can i just buy a chassis fuel pump and bypass the whole thing.

It is not recommended to attempt to bypass the factory fuel system.

Do you get a check engine light while the engine is running?

nope no check engine light

is it posible to bypass though with no major problems

It would be nice to check fuel pressure with a gauge.

If you think it may be the fuel pump relay, look for a mathcing (non-essential) relay nearby and temporarily swap for test purposes. You'll notice immediate improvement if the relay is the problem. Note- A bad fuel pump can draw to much current and shorten the life of the relay.

i can try that just wondering if that aint it though bypassing the whole thing its not in good shape just an old worek vehicle

In the end it may be okay if done properly. It would have to be done safely (not to be overlooked). You would also have to make sure it didn't alter fuel pressure or volume, especially if you have tail-pipe emissions testing.

The main reason I suggest further testing/troubleshooting is to first confirm that you indeed have a fuel supply problem caused by the fuel pump or it's circuitry.

check battery connections for corrosion and fuses sounds like a grounding problem

checked the fuses and found the clicking problem to be the turn signal fuse just wondering if it could be the intank fuel pump and if so can ii just put a regular chassis fuel pump you get at autozone work its an old work vehicle and really dont want to put to much into it

Unplug the throttle position sensor, now try revving the engine. If it will go past 2k rpm's, fuel pump/pressure/circuitry is not the issue.

To answer your question, yes a chassis mounted pump would work if it supplies enough fuel pressure and volume. You would still need a return line & safe connection to draw fuel from the tank. That is the major obstacle, you can't draw fuel through the existing line because the in tank fuel pump is in at the end of the line (the chassis pump cannot suck fuel through the line without modification).

How much is the autozone pump?

If you have a hunch that the fuel pump is the problem and want to try another pump with diagnosing, etc you should be able to find a pump on ebay inexpensively. If you want I'll try to locate a used one for you.

ok finished did what you told me nothing it still went over 2000rpm.but did heard a sparking noise ( a short) fixed it car is fine now. Got to love the forign jobbies.

thanks

1994 GEO Tracker Drive Train / Driveline Slipping When driving When cold

my tracker tranny will "try" to move when it is cold. i have to let it warm up about 20 min then it will go. i have had tranny flushed and it still fails. any ideas?

Sorry to say it sounds like your bands are either worn to point of replacement is due or you might get lucky and just an adjustment is due. An idea you may want to try is adding about 3 oz of dot 3 brake fluid to the transmission. This will help with the gripping problem and postpone a rebuild for about a year. Al

thanks will try that!!!

1994 GEO Tracker Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start When troubleshooting Always

Wouldn't start owner replaced the coil, distributor (new) and used a remanufactured computer. We have went through the Snap-On diagnostic procedure (2 very good certified technicians) and still no start. So we replaced the computer with another rebuilt one ... same problem (no noid pulse) HELP ....

You have no pulse, but do you have pos. voltage to the injectors? Do you have spark and does the fuel pump operate? Do you have injector pulse with all injectors unplugged (shorted injector)?

Sorry it took us so long to reply. The vehicle in question was tinkered with before we got it therefore the diagnostic was not correct. Thanks for your help. We are going to rebuild the engine.

I take it you have lost compression?

There is very little compression. The engine was out of time ... we pulled the head and sent it to the machine shop. We are waiting for their input. Thanks ...

1994 GEO Tracker Fuel System   

It runs rough at low idle then as you drive or under load it runs fine. I have changed plugs, wires, rotor, cap and fuel filter, used chevron injector cleaner several times..What have I missed?

Hi,

Good start. Now move onto checking for vacuum leaks. This should include vacuum hoses as well as the throttle body & intake gaskets.

Also clean the throttle body and its blade. Remove and clean/inspect the idle air control valve and its port.

BTW- any smoke from the engine? Notably when it is allowed to idle rough for bit then revved.

1993 GEO Tracker Engine   

I was wanting to know what years i would be able to swap engines with? Mine is blown.

Sorry to hear your engine blew. 1.6L engine from 1991 through 1995 interchange.

1993 GEO Tracker Ignition System   

Trouble starting car for a week, took it to garage, they put in new battery, ran great for a week, now when I turn the ignition key - nothing. No clicks, no grinding, just silent. Tow truck came and touched starter with metal and the car started immediately. Is this a starter issue or a connection problem from installing new battery

It is most likely a bad connection .
The cables were not very clean.
My firt thought would be a bad alternator because it lasted for a week and I would thinkk that maybe the battery died because it was not being charged.
If it stared from fiddling with the starter then It would be a connection problem.
Tighten up and clean the cables and then you should be fine.
If the problem rermains and the battery is charging then the alternator is in good condition, I would say you have a problem with your starter that need to be addressed
I hope this helps

1992 GEO Tracker Fuel System Won't Start When starting Always

starter works, spark is there, engine cranks....
but engine will not start, changed fuel injector, problem still there, when I spray fuel into the throttle body, engine will start when started immediately after that...could it be the fuel pump?
there is no way to hook up tester for fuel pressure - but fuel pressure seems very high
when I turn the key, a relay rattles near the clutch pedal and another one in front of the engine
could the throttle sensor have a problem?

You have identified that your problem most likely lies with the injector pulse signal to the injectors. The way to test this is to purchase a test noid for your engine. Cost should be less than 10.00 and avail at AutoZone, NAPA, Discount Auto parts. Disconnect the wire from the fuel injector, it wont matter which so get one that is easy to reach, insert the noid and turn the engine over.. if the light flickers then this is not the problem, but I am sure you will not see any light. This indicates the pulse signal is not being generated and the problem lies in the computer. Let me know how this works out. Al

how is the actual pulse signal to the injector controlled? does it come from the throttle sensor
or from the ignition module?
I mean, when those relays rattle it means that something is not accepting the juice, right?
COuld a relay be broken?
The Geo has only one injector, a so called "throttle
body injection system". I have already invested $60
into a fuel injector that did not need to be replaced...:-) both the fuel pump and the throttle sensor are around $200 each, I cannot afford another
try...

The pulse from the ecm controls the injector and that is why I recommend testing the signal before replacing anything. THe tester is not expensive (about 9.00) and will verify if the ecm is sending a signal. There is nothing between the ecm and the inj for pulse signal. So if there is no signal either the wire is damaged or the ecm has failed. Al

I have tested the wire and the light flickers.
There are 3 relays or connectors that rattle,
one is near the ECM, the Control relay, than there is EGR VSV and one at the EGR valve...those relays would start after switching on...it happened only 2
times in a thousand that for some reason the control relay and the others would stop rattling and than I
could start the engine...without pushing gas, so the
throttle position should be OK...I have heard a lot about ECM from Mitsubishi in that range of years that would break easily...I checked my ECM, it is not
a Mitsubishi built ECM but a Suzuki, the part number is therefore also different from the Mitsubishi stuff, my ECM is a 33940-60A00...

I understand what you have submitted. There is something causing those relays to trigger. Again the relays get signals to operate from the ECM. Did you pull the ECM and see if it smells bad (like stinky fish)? I really believe that is the cause of your problems. The down side of helping with repairs is I cant see the car and I am relying on your abilities. Sounds like you have a good handle on the troubleshooting and just need some advice. Let me know about the ECM. Talk with u soon.

I pulled the ECM, it looks like new, no smell, no
spilled acid no corrosion...no visibly disrupted
circuitry...thats why I am hesitant to blame it on
the computer...although the damage might not be visible...I will call around if those companies who
upgrade faulty ECMs would at least check my ECM, although the part is not a Mitsubishi and the part #
is different...

sorry for so long in responding, PC problems. I recommend follow the wires that send the signal to the injectors from the ecm and conduct continuity test of the wires. Let me know or if your not satisfied then release the question . Either way we are interested in helping you getting the car fixed. Al

1992 GEO Tracker Drive Train / Driveline   No pattern

I broke a clutch cable. I had and new one installed and it broke. Do I need to replace the clutch pressure plate?

NO YOU DO NOT HAVE TO CHANGE THE PRESSURE PLATE
A BROKEN CABLE WOULD NOT DAMAGE THE PLATE
YOU MAY WANT TO CHECK THE PRESSURE PLATE TO MAKE SURE IT IS FLEXING IN AND OUT PROPERLY AND ALSO THAT THE CABLE IS NOT BEING OVER STRESSED WHILE BEING DEPRESSED TO THE FLOOR.


I HOPE THIS HELPS
MACCONECK

When clutch cable broke, the clutch was functioning normally. When the new cable was intalled, the clutch was very hard to push down. Does this mean that the new cable was put on too tight and should have been adjusted?

IN THIS CASE THE CABLE WOULD NOT HAVE BEEN PUT ON TOO TIGHT BUT THE NEW CABLE COULD BE THE WRONG PART POSSIBLY TOO LONG OR COULD HAVE BEEN ROUTED INCORRECTLY CAUSING A BIND WHICH COULD CAUSE A SITUATION FOR A CABLE BREAKAGE

1992 GEO Tracker Ignition System   

the engine started one day drove half mile shut it off then wold not start with starter but started when pulled.no more prob for a couple weeks then again same started when pulled. then one day wouldnt start when pulled checked and no fire, replaced ign coil, still no fire to plugs, Question is it in the distutor, or computer? Thanks Rod

Hi Rod,
Good question. I recommend checking to see if the fuel injector is spraying while you crank the engine. If no fuel, suspect a bad computer. If fuel sprays, go for the distributor.
Sterlingfixer

Hi Sterlingfixer; Ok how do I check to see if the injecter is spraying, and is the computer the ECU? Thanks Rod

Yes Rod,
The computer is the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) You should be able to take the air cleaner or boot of the top of the throttle body and look in while someone cranks the engine. You should be able to see fuel spray out of the injector.

Ok Sterlingfixer, I will check it out and let you know what I find, might be a day or so got a lot of things happening heer right now as I have a ranch thank you very much Rod

Very good Rod,
I try to do my emails at least once a day, although I have been plowing, planting corn and building barn myself.
Sterlingfixer

Hi Sterlingfixer; What I didnt know you were a farmer? As I am where are you located? I am in eastern colo. Am up to my but in every thing that is comming down at this time, like calving,alfalfa fert planting new alf etc, Been a bitch lattley. I have more ranch than farm I quite planting corn and beans a few years ago went to irr alfalfa, but getting to old for all this alnight stuff, anyway havent had tim to do the tracker thing yet, so will do as time alows. Thanks Rod

Hi Rod,
I am in south eastern PA. WE have 10-15A handpick vegetables, no hired labor.... We sell most of it ourselves at a farmers market in Harrisburg. We planted some alfalfa yesterday, someone else is doing that for me.

1991 GEO Tracker Ignition System  Happens always Always

check engien light stays on

First of all, it means there is a sensor malfunction and/or a sensor not connected properly. You need to retrieve the "code(s)". If you do not know how to do this, get the vehicle to someone who does. The code should tell you the malfunctioning sensor(s)... My guess off the top of my head.. Probably the O2(Oxygen) sensor. Good Luck, hope this helps.

i changed the O2 SENSER WHERE IS THE SWITCH TO TURN OFF THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT .

Usually if you run the car upto operating temperature, the light will go out by itself. If not, disconnect the positive battery connection for a couple of minutes. Then go for a drive and get the car upto operating temperature, should be ok then. One note, make sure that your thermostat is ok and the car gets upto operating temp and NOT running on the cool side.

Is the problem fixed? Can you give me an update?

IS THERE A SWITCH TO TURN OFF THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT .THE MECHANIC I TALK TO SAID THERE SOULD BE ONE BY THE STERING COLMON.

Off the top of my head, I do not recall one being there...Have you tried by disconecting the battery for a few minutes, then go for a drive for about twenty minutes. Does the truck get upto operating temperature? Or does it always seem to run on the cool side?

1991 GEO Tracker Fuel System Won't Start When starting Always

My tracker fuel pump relay is klicking and it wount start. I have to put car starter fluid for it to start up and then every thing runs normal till I turn off again. Some one told me to change the relay and also check the fuel pump cut off switch(which I can't find it!!!!). Any help be great.

Hello, When you think about it, a fuel pump cut-off switch (I don't yet know where it is) cannot be overridden by starting the engine with a starting fluid. A cut-off switch, if tripped, will require a manual reset. You simply won't get fuel from the pump. When the starting fluid ran out the engine would die. Your vehicle will run.

Change the fuel pump relay. It gets a signal from the computer to energize for 1-2 seconds when the key is turned on so that the fuel pressure will come up to operating pressure and facilitate engine start. If the relay is weak it simply won't perform properly.

Roger

Hello, Will you please take a moment and give me an update on this question? Thanks!

Merry Christmas,

Roger

Hello, Still want/need help?

Roger

It has been a long time and not once have I received your reply. Do you need help?

Thanks,

Roger

1991 GEO Tracker Fuel System Won't Start When starting Always

i have fuel at the TBI but it wont start. if i spray fuel into the TBI it starts and runs fine. it has a trouble code # 21 TPS, will this sensor cause a no start any other sugestions thanks don farmer

Don,
The TPS can cause a hard, lean start if the computer thinks the throttle is wide open and it is trying to "clear flood"
Dale

1991 GEO Tracker Engine   

cranks wont start,good hot spark,perfect fuel pressure,no injector pulse.already swap out known good throttle body.

Most likely a failed computer. The computer supplies both the power and the ground to the fuel injectors. If you open it, you will likely find/smell the burnt internal components. They fail on a regular basis.
Sterlingfixer

1989 GEO Tracker Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start Happens sometimes No pattern

not getting fuel circuit under dash popping

Hello, tell me more about this "popping"...is it a relay? Does this sound have a pattern or quit after a time? What size engine please?

Thanks,

Roger

looks like a breaker & sounds like a breaker. its a big one with 2 plugs going to it.1 has 4 wires & 1 has 5 pops when key is turned on & pops again a couple seconds after key is off.
thank you for response
demi

I'll do some checking for an answer. What size engine, please?

Roger

The two connector device you describe is the "CONTROL RELAY". It gets it's power and ground circuits through the "ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE" (ECM).

Do you have a digital volt meter so testing can be done to see which part (ECM or RELAY) is bad?

Roger

yes

Okay, lets try to monitor the PINK-BLACK wire on the 5 wire connector while this popping is going on. This wire goes direct to the fuel pump and of course must remain powered-up for the pump to run. When you first turn on the key (do not try to start the engine) this wire should have battery voltage for 1-3 seconds to pressure-up the fuel supply. Does it?

Try disconnecting each of the two connectors to the control relay (one at a time) and turn the key "ON". Can you effect/eleminate the popping?

Roger

disconnect 4 wire plug popping stops

im going to the car now.whats my best bet to start with when i get there?

Since the four wire connector has the PINK/BLACK wire that goes to the fuel pump itself (and disconnecting this connector eliminates the popping) you could have a pump motor that draws too many amps to turn.

Pins G, H, I, & J are in the four wire connector.
Pin G = PNK/BLK goes to the pump.
Pin H = BLK/YEL comes from the ECM and the starter (spliced in-line) and is the engine start signal wire.
Pin I = PNK comes from the ECM and is ground for the relay to energize.
Pin J = BLK/GRN and is a ground that is not computer controlled.

I doubt the ECM is bad but rather pulsing the ground (popping the relay) to isolate/protect itself from overload from the punp motor. If you can get another control relay affordably and try it and the same thing happens (popping) the pump motor is bad or thewire is shorted to ground.

If trying a different control relay fixes the trouble then the relay itself must have an internal fault.

Roger