GMC Jimmy

2000 GMC Jimmy All Part Groups   

Never know if jimmy will start. It might start fine for a month and then it won't start. Wait 10 or 11 minutes and it starts and runs fine. You never know when it will do it, but it has always started after the 10 or 11 minutes.

Hi,

Does the starter crank the engine during the failure (crank no-start condition)?

If the engine cranks but doesn't start, hold he accelerator to the floor next time it happens. Let me know if this makes a difference.

The engine cranks and seems to fire for about 1 or 2 seconds. Then you wait 10 or 11 minutes and without fail it will start. It happened twice today and it might not do it again for a week or month or it might do it again tomorrow. I installed a OEM gas cap and it went for quite awhile with no problems. Then the problem started again.

Okay, visit an autozone store and have them read the trouble codes. Do so as soon as possible after this happens. The check engine light might not be on, but there may be pending trouble codes that will be of help.

Have you tried to hold the accelerator to the floor? This puts the fuel system in clear flood mode and the engine should start better if it's flooded. If there is no difference we know you are losing fuel and/or spark.

I have faith that I'll have the problem today again. I will go to Autozone and have the codes read. Thanks for the info. I'll let you know what I find out.

Thanks, Rion

Okay, thanks you for the update.

Jimmy started fine all weekend. When you don't want it to start it works perfect. Oh well, it will do it again. I'll let you know.

Thanks, Rion

OK,Thursday morning Jimmy wouldn't start. It start 11 minutes later. No Autozone open at 5:00 am. I held the pedal down and cranked engine, wouldn't fire at all. Normally it would run for 1 or 2 seconds. I don't understand why it will always start 11 minutes later!!! I am quite mechanical and have rebuilt 4 or 5 engines. I have always done my own repairs, but this is something I don't understand or have ever heard about. Autozone found no codes when they checked it later on in the day.

Any good guesses will be appreciated.

Thanks, Rion

Do you have a factory anti-theft system? If yes what does the security light do, does it blink by chance when it won't start?

I've been waiting for the Jimmy not to start again, but hasn't happened for a while. Its seems like the security light is active while trying to start.

Thanks, Rion

Are we still active? Should I find another Mechanic? I know this is not a standard problem, and I appreciate your knowledge.

You could go back to the basics if it does not start. Getting fuel and spark when it does the 'no start' problem?
If it has not been the recipient of regular tuneups and filter (fuel) changes, you could look into that also.

The security system takes about 10 minutes to reset. The engine starting for a second or two then stalling is a tell-tale the computer is shutting down the injectors, this is how the anti-theft system disables the vehicle. Look in your owners manual for the reset procedure- should be something like leaving the key on for apox. ten minutes until the security light goes out.

Any potential trouble codes are not likely to be found with an Autozone grade code reader. It'd take a gm body/chassis capable scanner. The most common failure on GM sytems is the lock cylinder, although I haven't experienced it with your Jimmy.

Thanks for your help. I'm sure that's the problem. Thats the best $20 I ever spent. I'll definitely use this service again.

Thank You. Rion

2000 GMC Jimmy Heating / Cooling System   

A red fluid is leaking under the car on the driver's side near the front. Not heavy but leaking.I Still smell coolant too often. Radiator resivor is always registering below full line after for or five days Had the radiator flushed. thermostat replaced this summer. Should I replace the radiator cap soon? Help

You need to take a peep under the car to see exactly where the exit point is for this fluid so we will know how serious of a problem this is.
Red fluid usually means trnsmission fluid but not in all cases sometimes power steering takes on this same color.
Your transmission fluid goes through the radiator for cooling and you need also to check the Transmission dip stick being carefull of the hot and cold check marks to see if it is low.
This can cause you to lose a 4000 dollar tranny real fast so be carefull not to drive untill you are sure of the oil level in the transmission.
Most definately the radiator cap is an inexpensive repair that can save you a lot of money in the long run.
I hope this helps

thanks for info. I will have the power steering checked tomorrow, maybe the reservior or pump is leaking. Mech.claim to have checked the fluid levels on 11/1/07 when I had oil change. I took the car back a they went under, but claim they couldn't see where the leak is. Why am i still smelling coolant? Today the radiator is full, auto-zone employee checked it for me. Oil change mech suggested, possible intake manifold problems? what do you think?
From where I see it, the leak may be approximatel in the area underneath the power steering area? Thanks

2000 GMC Jimmy Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

I noticed this last friday when I attempted to apply
my parking brake.
My parking brake will not hold when I press the pedal. And at times it seem as though the brake pedal will just start to go almost to the floor when I am sitting at a light.

about a month ago when backing out of my driveway my brake light came on, I had no brakes and I had to press the parking brake about two or three times before arriving at the repair shop in order to stop the car because I had no brakes. He replaced a broken flex hose on the front brakes, flushed the system, checked the back brakes also. Brakes are still pretty good; however, the back brakes will need calipers & pads soon.
Q :could he have not re-attached the cables on the Parking brakes, which is why my parking brake does not hold?
Help please, thanks,mattie

Hi Mattie, The park brake can be adjusted and unless you choose to have that done now you can combine this action with the replacing of the rear brake pads, machining or replacing the rotors, and servicing the calipers if needed.

So, yes it is possible the park brake cable was left disconnected but I doubt it. It may not have been adjusted right. Keep in mind that park brakes wear too if not fully released.

The brake pedal should not fade toward the floor with a constant pressure while at a stop. That is a sign of low fluid level or air in the system. The brake master cylinder may have an internal problem as well.

There is absolutely nothing more important on the vehicle than the brakes. Please have yours inspected for needs and plan to take care of problems found.

Roger

1998 GMC Jimmy Ignition System Stalling When starting When cold

The first time you start it in the morning it turns over and dies. Once in a while there is a brrrrtt sound when you try to start it. The rest of the day it starts immediately.

Is this from a low battery condition? Perhaps the battery is weak or something is draining the battery overnight. Most chain parts stores will load test your battery free of charge. If you have a battery charger install the charger 20 minutes to half an hour before starting (low setting) and see if it makes a difference (if it does the battery is weak or being run down). If the problem is definitely not the battery/starter let me know.

The problem is definately NOT the battery or starter. One mechanic said it was a computer problem that had to do with the idle but he was not equipped to deal with that. It's at the dealer now but they can't make it fail. It's the second day it's been there. It fails for me every morning. I don't know what to do from here, but isn't there some way the dealer can figure it out via their equipment?

It's not the starter or the battery. One mechanic told me it was the computer that had to do with the idle, he was not equipped to deal with computers. It's at the dealer's now and they can't make it fail. It's been there 2 days so far. If it is the computer, and I keep using it, what will happen?

The only difference that comes to mind, assuming they are actually letting the vehicle sit overnight, is the starting method. Perhaps you turn the key right to start and they turn the key on and wait for the fuel pump to prime for a couple seconds then crank the engine.

If you have the fuel injection system that uses poppet valves (your dealer will know and be very familiar the problems these have) they should leave a fuel pressure gauge on overnight- and keep records what the pressure is on a warm and cold engine.

If there is indeed a computer problem, there will be no long term damage associated to not fixing the problem. This assumes the engine is not flooding (oil smells of gasoline) and excessive cranking time is not needed- all things the dealer should have noticed by now.

Does the engine start and immediately stall, then on the subsequent restart run fine? How long must you crank the engine to get it to restart after the first stall?

I'm not trying to blame the dealer, for some reason they can't seem to make "it" happen. It starts off immediately according to them.

In answer to your last question, yes, the engine starts and dies/stalls. Most of the time you don't have to crank it, you just have to start it again and it will catch. Because of the way it die, (it feels like gas isn't getting to it) I ahd the gas filter changed but of course that did nothing. Isn't there some way they can check the computer without making "it" happen?

Not typically unless the computer records an error- which they should have easily found.

1997 GMC Jimmy Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens sometimes No pattern

my interior map reading and interior lights will flash on and off during the day or evening. This happens sporadically. My auto door key assembly also only unlocks the driver door and the hatchback window, sometimes the door will not even lock with the interior button, you can drive the car 10 - 15 feet and it will work or you just lock the doors manually and at your next stop they will work with the interior door lock button. I have had the car to the GMC dealer three times and they just say they can't find anything on the lights and that both of my key ring door openers are bad.
Recently the car has been shutting off when you first start it and all of the power shuts down. When you try to restart it, it has power to the dash etc, but acts like it's out of gas or not getting gas. Again nobody can figure it out. This is becoming extremely frustrating.

O.K.,this is kind of a difficult one to try and diagnosis on this side of the screen so bear with me. If the vehicle is equiped with an electrical contact going to the door latch, theres a possibilty the latch itself is failing. The latch serves as a "safty switch". Examine the striker to which the latch engages.(its the bolt that extrudes from the door opening when you open the door at the latch contact area)Most have a plastic collar that engages the latch to a full lock position. If there is and it shows wear and the latch is not in a full lock position your problem may lie there. As far as the key operation, again, the full lock of the latch may be falling into play here. Without doing a hands on, these are the best fish I can aim at in the barrel at this point.
Good Luck,
Paul

What has the dealer tried so far?

Does the door lock click like it's trying to work or nothing?

Have they checked the ignition switch for the start/stall problem?

the door does click like it's trying to lock. The dealer told me I had two bad key-less keys.

I would try to fix the starting problem first.

The door lock linkage inside the door panel likely needs lubrication, it tends to get stiff over time.

It's hard to diagnose from here, but there has been similar complaints with starting problems caused by the ignition switch.

1996 GMC Jimmy Chassis / Suspension & Steering   Always

my abs light is on all the time, i changed the wired for the abs behing the drivers side front wheel because it had a crack in it the other side is ok. light is still on and i have no anti lock. but i still have regular brakes whats going on?
Also how many times will i have to have the cooling system flushed before all old dextrol antifreeze will be gone its pretty sludged up?
Thanks,
JIM

Hello, Do you have a scan tool for OBD II code technology? You'll need a scanner to clear the codes before the anti-lock brake system will run a "Self Test" for any remaining problems that might exist. If clearing the codes is all that is left to be done then anti-lock will be restored after the system passes it's own "Self Test" on the next engine start and the vehicle starts to roll.

Flushing a cooling system for whatever reason is always repeated until you get the results you want. No minimum, no limit. You might consider a power flush performed by a shop professional. Their equipment does things that a home flush with tap water can't. The have a flush solution (usually heated) and high pressure to get gunk loose for outflow.

Thoughts?,

Roger

where can i get a scanner, im not a mechanic, do i need to take it to a shop or can i buy a scanner?
JIM

National Auto parts chain stores sell code readers that can read & clear codes. They do not diagnose problems but just identify the code. Expect to pay $150 and up.

Scanners diagnose problems. They cost much more. Thousands of dollars.

You may choose to have a shop check and clear codes and I expect that will cost one hour labor at whatever that shop charges for a flat rate hour. We were charging $68/hr when I retired in 2000.

I bought my code reader at a Pawn Shop for $75. My Snap On MT2500 is a different story.

Roger

Will you please update the status of this question?

Thanks,

Roger

1996 GMC Jimmy Ignition System Malfunction When idling Always

I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH MY TRUCK. WHEN THE TRUCK IS ON PARK IT SHAKES A LOT I NEED TO SMOG MY TRUCK BUT MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AND THEY WON'T SMOG IT. I CHANGE THE IGNITION CONTROL MODULE AND #6 INJECTOR AND ITS STILL SHAKE'S

I ALSO HAVE A SCANNER AND IT WAS THROWING ME MULTIPLE MISFIRE AND IGNITION CONTROL MODULE HIGH CIRCUIT

Check the O2 sensor and posibley catalitic converter.

EVEN IF IS SAYING THAT MY IGNITION CONTROL MODULE IS HIGH CIRCUIT AND MULTIPLE MISFIRE.

EVEN IF IS SAYING MULTIPLE MISFIRE AND IGNITION CONTRL MODULE HIGH CIRCUIT

Which engine do you have?

I HAVE A 4.3L VORTEC ENGINE

Okay,

I'll need the actual trouble code
designation- ie- P1300.

I GOT THE CODES IT IS
P1351 IGNITIONCONTROL MODULE CIRCUIT HIGH VOLTAGE.
P1300 IGNITION CONTROL MODULE IGNITER CIRCUIT.
P0300 RANDOM MULTIPLE CYLENDER MISFIRE DETECTED.
THESE ARE ALL THE CODES THAT THE SCANNER IS GIVING ME.

It's time to closely inspect the wiring and connectors/pins at the ignition module.

I assume the plugs, wires, and coil are fine.

I SHOULD CHECK THE WIRING ON THE IGNITION MODULE.
EVEN IF I PUT A NEW MODULE. SHOULD I CHANGE ALL THE WIRING OR JUST CUT IT OFF AND ADD SOME MORE

I would pay close attention to the connectors.

THAK YOU I WILL CHECK ON THE CONNECTIONS.
YOU THINK IF I SPRAY SOME OF THAT ELECTRICAL SPRAY WILL IT HELP.

It is helpful, especially as preventative maintenance.

1996 GMC JIMMY I CHECKED MY FUEL PUMP PRESSURE AND ON THE BOOK IT SAY THAT IT HAS TO BE BETWEEN 56 AND65 FUEL PRESSURE AND IS SHOWING ON MY FUEL SYSTEM TESTER THAT IT IS AT 54 WOULD THAT MEAN I HAVE TO CHANGE MY FUEL PUMP.

Possibly, the fuel system on your vehicle is especially sensitive to low fuel pressure. A slightly restricted fuel filter as long as lack of proper voltage can also cause a slight pressure drop. Something as simple as an aging battery alone can be the cause.

HOW CAN I CHECK MY LOW VOLTAGE ON THE VEHICLE. OR DOES IT MEAN MY BATTERY IS BAD ORIS THEIR SOMETHING ELSE.

Usually a new fuel pump will solve the low pressure. It takes special equipment to monitor electrical circuits, an auto electric specialist has these tools (a fraction of auto techs). I was offering alternatives scenarios to the problem, ones usually overlooked.

Another common problem with this fuel injection system is failure of the fuel pressure regulator. The last I checked the regulator (alone, not part of the unit) was only availabe from lindertech.com. It may be available elsewhere now.

WILL THAT HELP MY TRUCK TO STOP SHAKEING AND HARD TO START WHEN I WAN'T TO START THE TRUCK AND WILL IT HELP WITH THE MISS FIRE.

It has been the subscription for hard starting/no start, rough idle, performance issues, etc. Most notable is probably the hard starting. It is impossible to guarantee this is the problem.

Have you checked to see if the system holds fuel pressure. Establish fuel pressure then turn off the key. Does is hold established[54] psi for a while or start a slow steady drop?

THANK'S FOR THAT I WILL TRY THIS THEN..

1996 GMC Jimmy Fuel System Won't Start When starting Always

My car will not start. I think it is the fuel pump, but am trying to check the fuel pump relay. Where do I find the relay, and how to I know if it is good?

If you have the 4.3L six cylinder engine, these engines need precise fuel pressure to start. A gauge is required to check for adequate pressure.

The relay should be underhood, the easiest way to test is to simply swap with another like relay (possibly the A/C relay, etc).

The following link will give you the test procedure for the fuel pump-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/18/bc/6f/[redacted] bc6f.jsp

1996 GMC Jimmy Windows / Glass Malfunction Happens always Always

I ONE DAY WENT TO GO IN MY HATCH AND IT WILL NOT OPEN NEITHER WITH THE KEY OR THE BUTTON ON THE DASH I ALSO NOTICED THAT MY POWER MIRRORS AND HORN ALSO QUIT BU TMY POWER WINDOWS WORK. I DO NOT HAVE A MANUAL TO CHECK YHE FUSES SO HELP!!

Use the following link to access a repair guide for your vehicle. The repair guide will contain fuse box locations. If in doubt on any fuses, swap it with a known good one.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

i went to this sight and when i click component locations it takes me to shopping. i feel that i paid 15.00 for nothing to you. i know where my fuse box is i have checked all the fuses one at a time. DID YOU ACTUALLY READ MY PROBLEM? this link is not answering my question i could have went to auto zones sight myself and not paid you 15.00.

It is likely that your lock has seized because it will not open with the key or the tumbler is stuck on the inside
You have two good options that will deal with this situation
1 is to get some wd-40 and sptray it good an the key hole let it sit for a half hour and try the key again push down on the trunk a few knock and soft blows may also help.
2 is to access the trunk by removing the back seat and over riding the lock by turning it with a screw driver
the only other option is to remove the lock asembly
more like breaking into your own car with a dent puller [rented from any auto parts store} and make sure the latch is fully operational before you replace the new tumbler the button should also be working before you close the trunk again


hope this helps
macconneck

1996 GMC Jimmy Ignition System   

DRIVING DOWN HIGHWAY TRUCK SHUTS DOWN AND DOESNT STARTUP I BELEAVE NO SPARK I REPLACED CAP/ROTOR AND MODGUAL STILL NO START

The ignition switch is a possiblity.

The distributor/pick-up coil is possible too.

The first thing you need to do is determine if you are losing spark, preferably using a spark tester.

Do you ever get a check engine light while the engine is running? If you do visit Advance Auto or an Autozone store and they will check the computer trouble codes free of charge. Let me the alphanumeric codes they find, IE- P0300, P0401, etc.

YES I GOT A P0300 BEFORE AND ONE THAT SAID MULTIPAL MISSFIRES

Okay check next time to see if the check engine light comes on when the engine stalls. The key is on, so the check engine light should come on when the engine is not running. If it doesn't power is lost (ignition switch somewhat common).

If it does it would be really nice if you could check for spark, if it is possible to do so safely. Loss of spark will usually result in an instant shut down. Where there is usually a stutter or stumble if you are losing fuel.

what is agood way to check for spark

The best way is with a spark tester, should be under ten dollars at your local auto-parts store. The parts specialist will show you how to use it if necessary.

1996 GMC Jimmy All Part Groups   

cruse control stopped, is it a fuse or what

Check fuses first. Then move on to the switch at the brake pedal. This switch deactivates the system when you press the brake.

1996 GMC Jimmy Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

I have a 1996 GMC Jimmy with a metal snapping noise on the passenger side. It only occurs when the passenger side goes below or above the drivers side, such as in driving off the driveway on to the street. Also on a a rough road. I have replaced the upper and lower ball joints, the shocks, the rubber bumper on the upper control arm and the rubber parts on the sway bar. Nothing has changed. I injected oil throught the Voloscity rubbers into the joints in case they were dry, but that made no difference. I am about to change the front drive axle on the passenger side next. Any idea what this could be.

Please consider a road test with a foreman from a good body shop or service department to identify the source of the noise. I don't think that changing the drive axle will fix it either.

It could be a body mount.

Roger

1995 GMC Jimmy All Part Groups   

1995 Jimmy SLE Ran good for a while now it's back to stalling every time I press the brakes! Runs rough. Has new transmission, new egr, speed sensor, dist cap, rotor, dist cap module, plugs, wires, gas tank, fuel sensor, and fuel pump. All the vacuum lines have been gone through and are proper. Too much money into it now can't junk it.

I would have a look at the following:
1 The vacuum hose to the power brake booster
2 The plastic check valve at the booster
3 The Power Brake Booster Diaphram.
Boosters are known to fail, and reman ones are available

So far it was the fuel pressure regulator? but since have also had the catalytic converter and O2 sensor replaced. Seems to be running good finally but will need a new strter soon from all the stress. Thanks so much If it starts up again at least I know where to look.

If you have starter concers, best replace it before it quits on a dark snowy night,

1995 GMC Jimmy Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

i replace brake booster and now brake lights stay on.

there doesn't seem to be any adjustments. the manual says to press brake pedal,put on brake switch and pull up till there is no clicking sound. there isn't any clicking sound to begin with.

any luck with anawnser?

Hello,

Are you talking about the rear brake lights? Will they go off if you manually depress the button?

THERE IS NO BUTTON. THE BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH IS IN A BRACKET.THE SWITCH WORKS OFF THE ROD GOING TO THE POWER BOOSTER.IF YOU HOLD THE SWITCH IN YOUR HAND THERE IS NO BUTTON

The following link has instructions-

http://www.autozone.ro/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0[redacted] 00c02b8

Can you get the light to go off by manually actuating the push rod?

The switch lists for ten dollars at autozone.

i bought a new switch at autozone. the man there said he had no idea whats wrong.if you saw the switch youll;see that there is no adjustment to be made

iwent to autozone site.that page is outdated.you can only put the switch on one way and there is no plunger on it

1995 GMC Jimmy Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

Have a horrible squeaking sound coming from front-end driver side wheel area. Mainly hear it when going slow. Had everything checked & greased, but still have horrible noise like something is about to break.

Hello, Is this a 2WD, or 4WD? If the vehicle must be moving to hear the noise and the noise does not change by steering the wheels:

1. Check front wheel bearings 2WD
Check front hub bearings if 4WD

2. Inspect front brake pads for wear.

Please advise,

Roger

It is a 4WD. You only hear the noise while driving- usually VERY slow. However, I can push down on front end of driver's side & also hear the noise.

That will help alot. Can you buy/borrow a mechanics stethescope? Have someone push down on the front end while you use the stethescope to listen to the different suspension and swaybar bushings, ball joints, etc, to pinpoint the source of the sound. This method should get you on track quickly.

Roger

Thanks alot for your advice :)

You are welcome! To close the question please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

1993 GMC Jimmy Drive Train / Driveline Slipping When driving Always

4 wheel drive is off, transmission will start slipping at around 25 mph and goes into a "neutral" state, engine will rev. what type of transmission is it? Electric shift? Bands? Gears? What should we look at for a fix?

Unfortunately this is not a simple electronic malfunction but an internal failure in transmission. You would never attempt to repair this problem without a complete rebuild (the parts and labor will cost the same). A rebuild (get free estimates) or a used transmission with a solid warranty is the fix.

That was what I expecting. The "Jimmy" belongs to my father who can't drive it any more, but I guess I will have to spend money to fix it just so I can sell it.

Thank you for your reply.

1993 GMC Jimmy Fuel System   

Had a fuel pump installed 8/15/06 ran fine till 8/29/06 when returned to shop for rough idling, surging, brakes would lock up. Shut engine off let cool down restart and ok. check engine light would come on too. Returned to shop and they said a piece of carbon had stuck in the egr valve and they cleaned it and again was ok. Returned a third time for the rough idling and the receipt says decarbon engine clear dtc32, also said it would be on ongoing problem Help

Ongoing carbon buildup will be a reocurring problem as the only way to remove 100% of carbon is to remove intake entirely and clean it out. Removing the egr, and removing the carbon under it, will dislodge the carbon further down.Removing intake and cleaning the passage out entirely will be the longest lasting solution.And keep the truck in tune and avoid short trips if you can.

1993 GMC Jimmy Drive Train / Driveline   

I just bought a 1993 GMC Jimmy, The day after the 4 wheel drive quit. It has a push button 4 hi 4 low button on the dash. When it did work I could here something behind the glove box and here some thing engage under the front end. now I push the 4 hi or low and they dont light up and I dont here anything. I am a mechanic but I work on school buses, I dont work on this tyre of vehicle to much. need help troubleshooting thanks

There is a device under the truck that enguages the 4wd. A pain in the ass part that always fails and is generally unreliable. As I remember, it looks like a wiper motor. Several companys offer a mechanical cable operated 4wd engagement device that is bulletproof.It uses a simple knob under the dash to actuate. I have a 454 1993 chevy 4x4 dually. Guess what mine has under the dash?

If your dash light is not coming on, check your 4x4 and brake fuses. Remove both for a minute to reset the system and see if it works then.
Sterlingfixer

Hi Thank you I will try that tomarow I will let you know

Hi I removed the TCCM and the Brake fues, The 4X4 worked for 2 times. Now it is the same I turn on the key the 4HI and 4Lo light come on and go off. Is there a relay or something

There is a transfer case shift motor on the back of the transfer case. These have limit switches in them, and can also have hang-up and give problems. Likely your 4x4 computer is seeing wrong results when it commands 4lo, or 4hi, and turns off the system so as not to damage anything. If you remove the shift motor, you can turn the shifter and manually shift the transfer case to confirm everything is working right on the inside.

Thanks I will check that. Is there any tests on the shift motor i could do

Hi,
There are only 3 components in the control of the gear box shifting...the dash switch, the control module under the dash and the motor on the transfer case. It seems the dash switch is working, the module can be tested with a scanner. The motor has several coded sensors on it, and is powered by the module. The black wire and the red wire operate the shift motor. Forward polarity to move it one direction, reverse for the other. You could test that yourself with jumper wires.

1992 GMC Jimmy Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise When braking When warm 

This is a 4wd Jimmy. The shifter is in the 2wd position, but the 4wd indicator stays on. Intermittently under heavy braking, the 4wd light extinguishes. Shortly after that, there's a "whirring sound" coming from the front end and then the 4wd light comes on and the whirring sound goes away. Thanks, Dean

the 4m wheel drive on these vehicles work off vacuum check for cracked and split lines you also have some relays with vacuum located on the transfer case

I fixed this last night before hearing from you. Does that mean I get a refund?

The problem was the vacuum switch on the transfer case was stuck "on" holding the 4wd pin in. Under heavy braking, the vacuum would drop below the threshold to keep pin engaged and it would pull out. When vacuum would build up again, the pin would try to engage while moving, and that's where the "whirring" sound was coming from.

Thanks, Dean

out of all the questions ive tried to help with on here ive never recieved a dime if you paid someone it wasnt me

1989 GMC Jimmy Chassis / Suspension & Steering Vibration When driving No pattern

When I was driving the other day the steering wheel starting jerking back and forth and the front end was shaking violently. This went on for about 5 or 10 miles stopped, then started again after only a few more miles. I'm definitely not driving it until I can get it looked at. I'm thinking ball joints but was wondering if you could give me any other suggestions as to what could have caused it.

Hello, Tie rod ends, steering linkage idler arm, front wheel bearings and even tire pressure can be suspect in addition to you're already thinking about the ball joints.

A good front-end specialist will check everything for little or no fee. You decide where to invest after he evaluates the situation for you. If the vehicle is a "keeper", you'll be in a position to make a decision that fits your budget and restore the margin of safety that has "worn-out".

Roger

1989 GMC Jimmy All Part Groups   

Engine cranks but won't turn over. The following have all bee replaced in the last three months - spark plugs, spark plug wires, fuel pump, ignition coil, distributer cap and coil. Starter was replaced about 20,000 miles ago. I can hear both solenoids clicking when I turn the key. Battery amp is around 12, which is normal.

If I understand you correctly the engine is turning by the starter and does not start up.
What size engine do you have?
Have you checked for a spark at the plugs?
can you take a fuel pressure test from the fuel rail?

grt back to me with this info so we can go further

The engine is a 4.3L engine. A guy got under the hood, fiddled with the throttle, and got it to start. The TBI was rebuilt in 2005. He mentioned that there was alot of crud "somewhere" and to spray it w/carburetor fluid. I turned off the car, restarted it, and there was no problem. I let it sit for 15 minutes and tried to restart it - it wouldn't start. I had a friend play w/the throttle, and we couldn't get it started.

First of all try some starter fluid to see if you get can get it to run and again check for spark and for fuel pressure .
It may be as simple as something loose but you need to know that there is spark and fuel to begin with.
then check the moiuntint of the throttle body to make sure that there is no air leak
or vacume hoses that have come loose.

I can check for fuel pressure just by looking for fuel spray in the TBI? BTW - spark is present.

Did you try some starter fluid?

Have you checked for vacume leaks?

Have you checked to see if the throttle body is loose?

actually, when I turn the key to try and start the car, should I see gas spraying from the ignitors?

Yes there should be a spray of fuel for initial star up.

Well, that's the problem - there is no initial fuel spray. I just tried to start the truck again, and the area below the fuel injectors is completely dry. So, where do I go from here? And, thanks for being so patient....

Try the starter fluid first to see if there is trying to fire up.
You will need to test for 12 volt pulses of power to the injectors while cranking the engine

You must have power to the injector upon trying to start your car.
The starter fluid will tell a good story

again - where do I spray the starter fliud

you will want to spray it into the throttle body or the air cleaner

ok - did that and the truck started right up. The fuel injectors are spraying. Now I'm afraid to turn the truck off...what next?

well if you dont turn it off you will run out of gas.
The important thing is that we know it is fuel related.
You need to get some fuel injector cleaner and then we need to access the fuel issue

okay - I'll go get that. BTW, I did turn off the truck - and, I tried to immediately start it, and it wouldn't start.

The pump has one-way valves in it so it should not drain down unless the pump is bad.
The next test is to pour a a cap full of gas in the carb and try cranking it up. If it starts for a few seconds and then dies, see the following:

a) Your fuel pump is bad
b) Your fuel filter is cracked and pouring gas on to your manifold.
c)Your injector is not being powered up or triggered

the fuel filter was replaced just two weeks ago - I'm going to hope that that isn't the issue.

Where exactly do I pour the gas - in the cups below the fuel injectors?

one other thing - I have an inline fuel filter that is located under the truck towards the back of the truck - if I have another fuel filter, I don't know where it is.

I do not have a gmc jimmy with a 4.3L engine in it,are you sure that is correct.
I can only see information for a 5.0L and above.
On a TBI you can put fuel right into the carburater and it will simulat fuel being injected into it

hey - I got rid of the truck so I don't need assistance anymore. Thanks so much for your help

you are welcome

1988 GMC Jimmy Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction Happens always Always

The steering column was getting loose for some time. The other day I went to make a turn and the whole steering column turned into jelly. I think a nut must of came off, but how to I get to it. I tried once, but I could only get to the shift lever. Any idears.

THere are bolts that loosen on GM products of this vintage.

If you offer your email address I'll send instructions.

1988 GMC Jimmy Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction When braking Always

while driving my brakes which were not old nor working improperly suddenly started to go to the floor with very little brake at all it is full and not leaking either so what is it my master cylinder

If you are sure there is not a leak or air in the system, yes very likely the master cylinder (shouldn't cost very much).

Instuctions available if you need them.

1987 GMC Jimmy Fuel System   

will start and idle for a minute then starts to run ruff. If you hit the gas it will die and may not start again for a little while then the problem starts over.

Check fuel pressure.I think you might have a fuel filter problem.

I changed the fuel filter but still happening?

If it is a cold start issue, I would think its the coolant temp sensor. Poss a crank position sensor, You might want to get it scanned (free at some parts stores) and see if they pull up a code.

It is not cold and now it will not start at all and it acts like a timing problem also the oil looks like it has been over filled.

Color of the oil kinda milky?

1987 GMC Jimmy Ignition System   

Last night I started the car then left it running to go get some things to put in. Then I got in and turned on the lights. The lights did not come on, and the engine immediately died. When I tried to start it, it cranked very well, but did not fire. I live up on a mountain by myself and it's snowing. Where should I start looking to diagnose and fix the problem with this car? Thanks!

First check for fuel pressure.There is a schrader valve(looks like tire valve) close to throttle body, by the air cleaner on the steel fuel line. If you have pressure there check for spark at the plugs.
Also check the battery condition and clean the connections there. There will be a date code on battery.Batteries commonly last 5 years. If it is close to that date, consider replacing it ,as a preventive measure.
It sounds like a battery/charging problem.

1984 GMC Jimmy Electrical / Lighting Systems   

No headlights, horn, or lighter. Fuses are good. Stalling while driving

Check the battery terminals, cables, and grounds (engine and body). If this is fine check for voltage on both sides of the fuse with a test light or voltmeter. Is voltage present?

Does the stalling occur when coming to a stop, at any speed, etc?

Will the engine restart right away or must you wait until the engine cools?

the altenator was replaced and seem to "cure " the stalling. The voltometer in the vehicle shows low voltage, but the blinkers and brake lights still work. Check both sides of what fuse? just the fuse that goes to the headlights or the fusable link fuse?! thank you for your help!

"Check for voltage on both sides of the fuse"

This is the recommended procedure for checking fuses. People are usually taught to check a fuse by looking to see if the element was melted. If the element is clearly melted this proves the fuse is bad. But... the fuse can look good and still be bad. Or, the fuse can be fine but not have voltage to it (a dead circuit). So whichever component has failed needs to be checked for Positive Voltage & Ground. The fuse is a good place to begin checking for power.