Honda CRX

1997 Honda CRX Fuel System Stalling When accelerating No pattern

loss of power during acceleration

I recommend that you change the air filter and the fuel filter. Let me know how that helps and we can proceed from there.

As I stated in the additional part to my Quest and might not have understood this FORUM ... all filters are changed and the
Auto tech gave it a GO, I paid and it started the same thing on the road again! I put a full tank of fuel in plus a bottle of STP Fuel additive, Carberator Cleaner, ... asked another Mechanic around the corner and he siad it HAD to be the Carberator!! ..do you also think that!!? or might it be electronic shorts somewhere? It seems to happen worse, after I come down a 5 block decent (15% downgrade) onto the onramp of Freeway 5, throttle it to get into passing lanes and it looses all power for seconds and when foot is pulled up, ... power is returned. NO pattern of when it is going to happen .. even on flat neighborhood road at 35 ... throttle looses at times when sudden thrust is applied!

OIC.. I was not aware the filters had been changed... With that information how mechanical are your skills... there is a possiblitiy that the fuel bowl in the carb is full of water and there is not enough gas to make the car run properly.. dry gas will help fix this problem without removing the carb, but it will take some time.. or you can see if there is a bowl drain (some carbs have this option) or you can remove the carb and flip upside down to drain the water out.. Let me know if I can be further help. Al

Al,
Thank you for the POSSIBLE fix ... the car went BACK in yesterday to have it's Muffler clanking noises like nuts and bolts blown out and they announced today that the Catyletic Converter was deteriorating, throwing the chunks into the Muffler and are now thinking that the problem MAY be overcome whith the new Converter tomorrow!! They suggested that hunks may have got in the way of ..... ???? Sound POSSIBLE? I will suggest your WATER theory!!

a plugged Cat will also cause problems with acceleration due to the engines inablitiy to pass exhaust gasses. Not normally a starting point but more of an end point.. if your getting pieces of your Cat internals in the Muffler.. I think u have found your problem.. Let me know how this works out. Al
PS.. how long has your check engine light been on???

My CHECK ENGINE?? It is a 5speed shift and new to me
but there was never anything like that that lit up ... it WOULD appear if the Cat were coming appart???
The Cat was suspect during SMOGGING and I was sweating a
$500.00 charge 'till it was told to me that all passed without
replacing the Cat .. just CLEANING THE MOTOR ......
"CAN TOP ENGINE CLEAN .. DIAGNOSTICS HIGH NOX ..
TOP ENGINE CLEAN LABOR ... SMOG RETEST" $181.55 .........
then my New Auto Mechanic took it and worked over the
acceleration so long and hard that the clanking noises
appeared in my Muffler upon my START .. he apologized and
said he would remove the debre for another hour work, ( $45.00 ) then called to announce "the Cat had been coming appart ... and that COULD be our problem" !! I'm glad to hear
your answer echoing his .... that it COULD BE!! Thanks Al.

This is a follow up response. Did the problem with your car turn out to be a Cat that was failing? I hope you were satisfied with the service provided and will pass along the experience with your friends.

Thanks and your answers were repeated in front of my LOCAL Mechanic as he tried & tried and as I wanted him to rememdy
the noise he SEEMED to CAUSE by all the motor reving, he
discovered the CAT WAS cracking appart!! After installing a re-built and replacing some FISH TANK type soft tubing arround the Vaccume System, (someones cheap fix!) it runs near perfect NOW... but if accelerator is tromped on for immediate accelleration, .. a HINT of the "dropout" still is there!! I imagine .. it points to the re-built carboretor!! Thanks .. you were an inspiration helping me seem to know what I was talking about!!
I have been passing this around for you!

1991 Honda CRX Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have a 91 Honda CRX Si. The tach, temp, fuel gauges, gauge lights, and blinkers didn't work. I replaced the dashboard/instrument harness and now the blinkers and gauge lights work but still no tach, temp, or fuel gauges. I checked all fuses and have tried working gauge clusters from other crx's.

You might want to check under the hood. The tach wire may be disconnected and the same with the others.

Additionaly make sure you are checking the fuses with a test light to be sure there is voltage on both sides of the fuse.

Make sure you are not missing a ground.

I will check all of these tomorrow. Thanks.

1991 Honda CRX Engine   

I replaced my Valve Cover gasket on my 1991 Honda CRX 1.5 DX because of an oil leak that appeared to be coming from this location. All went well until I put the valve cover back on and tightened the 4 dome nuts. I didn't use a torque wrench (stupid) when tightening them and sheared one off level with the valve cover. No one can tell me if these bolts are replaceable by taking the valve cover back off or if they are part of the lower half of the engine. It seems to be holding with 3 bolts and I don't want to take the valve cover off again until I know I can myself replace the bolt. I saw "valve cover hold downs in a parts store but I'm not sure if these are the right bolts. Any help?

Thanks!
Mel

When you remove the valve cover, there should be enough of the bolt left to remove the old bolt. From what you have said, I assume the bolt will be exposed an amount equal to the thickness of the valve cover. If it won't come it'll have to be drilled out and tapped. It doesn't have to be a perfect job because there is not a lot of torque on these. An inexpensive tap and die set will do the job. Drill the hole as straight as possible and install a new bolt. Use a torque wrench and threadlocker (medium strength) on this bolt.

To match another bolt, simply stick the threads from a bolt you have to the new bolts. The threads will intertwine perfectly if they are a match. Alternatively match the threads using a nut, it should screw on both bolts with your fingers if it is a match. A thread pitch gauge can also be used, not very expensive.

You could monitor for while. If the new gasket seals tight it may not leak. It really comes down to the flatness of the valve cover and its seat.

Great! Thanks a lot for your help!!!

1991 Honda CRX Windows / Glass   

I want to repair door windows on a Honda CRX-Si that were made inoperable after tint was removed to comply with Vermont state laws. The windows are sticky and off track, and will not roll or close properly. I'm uncertain as to whether any parts are broken inside, but would need to replace them if so. With no mechanical background, I am wondering what to expect regarding difficulty and what steps to take start to finish.

i would recommend carefully removing the glue with an adhesive remover to see if that is where the only problem lies.. if you need to go further you can decide that once all of the glue has been removed

The glue has been removed from the window, but this has not solved the problem. I have no idea what might be lurking inside the door, where the hand crank attaches, and I don't know how to take it apart to see.

"I can send you an exploded view of your door and the componets in it and instructions on removal so you can take a look inside the door,to see possiblities of
what is going on as you operate the window.
This is always the best way when you do not know exactly thw problem and you do not have to be too mechanically inclined to see a problem and figure out a fix or repair.
This is also a good way to learn with the information right there beside you.
if you just give me an email address i can send this information to you."

O.k. It's worth a try, but I've learned since asking this question that taking a car door apart is very tricky - that there are many small components inside and it makes me nervous. I don't want to have the car in pieces in my garage, and not know how to put it back together. I am really not mechanically inclined - just desperate to fix and sell this car. Any thoughts?

So, I was thinking that you had my e-mail address. Sorry, here it is "[redacted] " and I still would like your thoughts on this. Will there be someone who can walk me through this if I need it, or am I on my own?

Yes this is the reason why you would want an exploded view because it lables all the parts and shows how they all inter-connect, it is very helpful.
It can happen just follow the diagram some of the wok will be quite obvious.
I will send you the diagram and then I will give you some step by step instructions, to help walk you through it.

Thank you!

Ok open up the file with the Windows picture and fax viewer , in this way you can enlage portions that you want to see more clearly.

1:remove the screws at the bottom of the door panel.

2:remove the screw from the door handle trim plate and pull it out

3:you may have to pull the panel away from the door with a little force because there should be a few snap-in clips and possibly some sticky pad substances holding the panel onto the door.

4:After removing the panel you must take off the plastic door lining, be careful as not to rip it because it must be replaced after the repair.

5:At this point you want to install the swich temporarily and you should be able to view what is going on with the glass as you operate the window up and down, It is as simple as that
I hope this does it

1991 Honda CRX All Part Groups   

car starts okay in the morning to go to work drive 70 miles then when i get out work the car will not start it cranks okay but when i get a jump the car will start it does this everyday in the afternoon then when i get home i turn the car off then it starts like a champ

Hello, This one is a little srtange, huh? It will be very helpful if when the car cranks but does not start to see if there is spark and fuel pressure.

What series CRX? 1.5, or 1.6L engine?

This car has a PGM-FI Main Relay that could be at fault. It has to click twice to power the fuel pump and the injectors. Now, what that has to do with requiring a jump start to the car battery is yet to be determined.

Your thoughts?

Roger

its a 1.5 h.f

The PGM-FI Main Relay is located on a bracket behind the left side of the dash above the kick panel. When the key is turned on this relay will click once and then a few seconds later it clicks again.

Try to locate this relay and see if you can hear both clicks. When you hear both clicks the engine should stsrt. If you hear only one click, or no clicks the engine will not start.

Once you are familiar with the relay clicks it will be helpful to know after the 70 mile run what this relay does when the engine won't start; and what it does when you connect jumper cables like you described.

Roger

1990 Honda CRX Fuel System   

On hot days my car wont get fuel, after outside temperatures drop it will start and run. sometimes it will start once and run untill I turn it off, then wont start again untill outside temperatures drop to about 80 degrees

The main relay was a common failure for Honda's. Failure happens when the inside of the vehicle reaches a certain temperature. It resumes working after it cools. Failure does shut down the fuel system, as you've already determined.

You should be able to hear the relay click (lower steering column area) when you turn on the key (when it will start anyways). Then you will not hear the click when it will not start.

1990 Honda CRX Windows / Glass   

How do I replace the hood release cable in my 90 CRX Si? It looks very difficult.

No , very easy. Release the clip ar the latch and the clips along the cable. Look behind the Relese handle and you will see some locking tabs. Press these in and pull cable out. Not difficule, just be patient!

I can't believe I paid over $15 for this cheesy reply. From what I understand, the cable runs through the driver-side fender and I have to take the wheel off to get at it. Is that true? I want another opinion.

The bracket that holds the release handle has to come off (one or two 10 mm bolts)
The left front fender has to also come off. Rather time consuming as ther are many bolts around the perimeter of the wheel opening and on the upper edge under the hood.Also a few on the bottom of the fender, close to the door and more under the front edge behind the bumper. There is also a black plastic sheild (or inner fender) that has to be removed to expose the cable which is clipped along the outer frame rail. Removing the tire is an option, as it makes access to the bolts easier.
Tools required :
Medium flat blade screwdriver
Medium philips screwdriver
10 mm socket and ratchet
As your car is 18 yrs old-a can of WD-40

1989 Honda CRX Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start Happens always Always

i have replaced the altenater and the battery, it's getting a surge/draw from the horn and stop fuse what could i do to fix this problem?

These can be very difficult to track down. Start by unplugging individual components one at a time and rechecking current draw. Inspect associated wiring harness for damage.
It sometimes requires tracing the whole circuit to find the problem.

You may wish to contact your local honda dealer and see if this Technical Service Bulletin has anything to do with the problem-

TSB# 89003 APR 89 Battery - Parasitic Drain During Storage

Honda, Acura, and BMW keeps this information to themselves.

Also make sure to use a test light or amp meter to check for current draw. Some DIY's and mechanics alike will check for current draw by the amount of spark seen when hooking up the battery cable. The battery is explosive when subjected to heat and sparks so this is obviously dangerous.

Good luck

i dont know that it matter or not but the car can be jump started, as long as u let it run it will but as soon as you shut the car off is when the battery starts to die. yesterday i jumped it and drove it for about 10 min, i parked it and turned it off and wait like 5-10 min and it wouldnt start it was olny charging at 8 volts, about 20 min later i tried agian just to see and it was all the way dead.

If the car is only charging at 8 volts (engine running) the charging system is not working. It must be approaching the point where it won't even run.
Try removing the fuse that is causing the problem. Start the car and let it idle for 10-15 minutes with all accessories OFF. Shut engine off and see if it will restart after 15-20 minutes. If it does NOT start have the battery tested (autoparts stores do this for free, call ahead to be certain). If it starts fine the problem is soley on that circuit. And if it's eating up a GOOD battery that quickly, whatever it is will be getting very warm if not HOT! This should aid in tracking down the problem.

By the way the battery should be fully charged when you installed the new alternator. An alternator is not designed to charge a dead battery. The alternator can be damaged doing so. Also note that low priced alternators have above average failure rates.

alright, he did that and the car will keep a charge with that fuse out. so what does that mean?? does he get a new one or.......

He will have to trace down the individual device that is draining the battery via that fuses circuit. Do you have a repair manual with a wiring diagram? If not make a note of everything that stops working with the fuse removed. Then test each component individually. One method is to unplug the connectors one at a time. It's a fishing expedition, no shortcuts for this problem.

first i want to say thanks for helping me, but everything that i wrote last time scratch it because he didnt do it. i went and took the fuse out when i got home and did what you said and it didnt work. the car still died anfter being jumped and no fuse. so then me and his dad put the battery on a charger and it was reading 14-15 amps which i guess is right. his dad said maybe the altenator is bad agian because the head light get brighter when you press the gas or something with the starter. i dont know i just know what you all are telling me.

The parts store you bought the alternator from should test it for free. Have the alternator tested.
Also make sure all connections are clean and tight. (battery cable and engine ground, wires at alternator)
Make sure to disconnect the battery before removing the alternator.

I would also suggest-

1. charging the battery on the battery charger
2. Take the battery to the autoparts store and have them LOAD TEST it.

There is obviously some confusion in our communication. So ask as many questions as you wish.

1989 Honda CRX Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Suddenly, the car will not start. The alternator bearing was making a loud noise. I replaced the alternator with a new one. I started it up and the belt was a little loose making a squealing sound. I shut it off and retightened the belt. Started up and was OK. The heater temp knob was not changing the temp. I shut the engine off and manually opened the valve. When I went to restart the engine--Nothing.
I don't believe this has anything to do with the starting problem, but this is what was done right before the problem started. When I turn the ignition to the run position, the +12 volts drops to +6v. When I turn the lights on, the lights do not come on, but the check engine lamp, batt light come on the dash, The temp guage goes up to H. The same thing happen when I depress the brake. No brake lights, just the dash issue. The ECU flashes code 20, Electric load.
I can jump the starter and it turns over normally. If I disconnect the main relay, the engine turns over but of course will not start. I disconnected everything on the dash fuse panel, except for the ignition. I plugged connectors back in one at a time and the voltage did not drop( maintained +12.66v) until I plugged in connector # 11. Without this connector plugged in the main relay does not engage either. I replaced the ECU. What would you suggest?

It sounds like the ground wire from the engine to the body and from the battery to the body are both faulty. Turn the lights on and measure voltage at the battery, then from the body to battery+. You will be able to find the problem from there.

From the Pos terminal of the battery to the engine and from Pos terminal of the battery to the body both read +12.64v. When I turn the lights on, both read +0.24v. The negative lead of battery to the engine bracket is new. I replaced it when this problem started. There is a braded wire from the valve cover to the engine body. I removed and cleaned the ends with a wire brush. Am I looking for another ground wire? When I read the voltage at the ignition switch, I am using a bolt next to the gear shifter as my ground.

OK,
You have some discrepancies. Lets get to the true root issues. Check the ignition switch again, with the same ground. Check both the input and output wire with the key on. Both should be reading about 12V. If input is right and output is low, you have a bad switch. If both are low (6v), check with a different ground. If still low, measure the voltage drop between the battery + and the ignition switch. It should read less than 1/2v. If the reading is more than that, like 12-6=6v, you have to track down where the voltage is being lost.

If voltage drop seems good, but voltage is still low, do the same with the ground circuit.

I checked the ignition harness with a meter and have continuity according the the chart in the shop manual. I have +12v across all wires (input and output) as I believe are correct i.e. acc, start etc. except when I plug connector 11 back into the dash fuse box. The voltage at all points drops to @ 6v.
The wiring diagram that I have shows component to component but does not specify connectors. I have a separate diagram for the ignition harness that shows the connectors and pins and functions and wire colors for that harness. I don't know what connector 11 on the fuse panel controls. If I had that, I might be able to trace the more easily. Do you have any specific pinouts or more detailed diagrams?

A volt meter can be misleading by showing good voltage when there is no load. Since the car needs connector 11 plugged in to run, you will need to do your testing with it plugged in.

Does your battery drop to 6v also when it is plugged in? If so, your battery is very weak. If the battery stays at 12V, track the voltage drop!

Both the BAT A and BAT B should be 12v with everything hooked up and the key on. The blue/wheite, black/yellow and yellow wires need 12v for the car to run as well.

The battery is new. The voltage does not drop at the battery or fuse box under the hood. What do the wires in connector 11 control besides the main relay. Is the main relay a possible problem. It metered OK, but as you say the diodes may fail under load. I would replace it, but it's $75. A big expense for troubleshooting.Do you have a wiring diagram that shows the output of connector 11?

I feel you are getting sidetracked and jumping to conclusions. Lets do this logically (you already put a computer in)

If the output of circuit 11 is too high it will blow a fuse. If it is normal and there is a weak spot between it and the battery, it will create your symptoms.

A volt meter can be misleading by showing good voltage when there is no load. Since the car needs connector 11 plugged in to run, you will need to do your testing with it plugged in.

Does your battery drop to 6v also when it is plugged in? If so, your battery is very weak. If the battery stays at 12V, track the voltage drop!

Both the BAT A and BAT B should be 12v with everything hooked up and the key on. The blue/wheite, black/yellow and yellow wires need 12v for the car to run as well.

1989 Honda CRX Ignition System   

When I purchased my CRX it had an alarm on it. Eventually when I got in to start it with the key the car would sound like it had a low battery. After a while my car wouldnt turn over and just go completely dead. Usally on the 4th or 5th time it would start. I changed the battery and had honda look it over. They figured my negative terminal was grounding out to the hold down bracket on the battery. After the readjusted the brackey adn said everything was fine the problem still occured. I then had the alarm removed and the problem went away. I had no alarm for around a year and then had my car broken into. I purchaed a new alarm thinking that the old alarm was faulty and had the new one installed. Now the problem is back. The installers insist that the alarm isnt the issue. Everyone is stumped. Now my car is doing the same thing off and on it is very frustrating. Do you have any suggestions? Is it my cables to the battery or my ignition?

Hi,
Based on your description it sounds the alarm system has something to do with it.
The company who installed your alarm,theorethicaly they are right ,too.
But the repair shop,dealer,they should be more helpful to you.Here is why:
To diagnose your problem I would do several tests:
1) I would test your battery.I will charge your battery for an hour and then I will do BATTERY LOAD TEST.This can be done with battery load tester which put 200 amperes "load" for 10 seconds",your battery during this test should never go bellow 9.6 volts.If does battery isn't good.
2) Second test I will check your starter circuit and ignition switch.With battery fully charged I will try to start your engine 20 times(remove ignition coil wire not to fire engine while cranking).If your starter will not turn or not "engaged" to crank an auto technician will know this.The two problems can be eliminate easily.If the starter itself or starter contact it is at fault can be seen with starter tester(battery load test wire for LOAD clamped from outside on starter wire)The auto technician can READ your amperes drain while cranking.On Honda I think it is "allowed" around 130-160 amperes.
Secondly,if the ignition switch it is at fault no sound should be sheard for the starter to be engaged "silence" and auto technician will know the power supply to the starter it is "not there" coming from your ignition switch.
3) I will do the test BATTERY DRAIN for "short" during overnight.I will disconect your negative battery terminal and conect an ammeter tool between your negative battery cable and negative battery post.If ammeter indicates an ammount of 50 amperes or more a source it is draining your battery overnight.The source can be found be removing each fuse individualy and watching the ammeter tester.When the ammeter tester goes down to zero amperes while removing the fuse THAT SYSTEM IT IS AT FAULT.And then corect the problem.
Good luch to you.
Best regards,
Peter Mladin
ps: Auto technician for over 30 years.

Hi,
Thank you for the reply. I will take this to Honda. I have found that if I leave the alarm on overnight and come out the next day to start and then it sounds like my battery is dying again. I am currently at work at I am not going to alarm my alarm all day and see what it is like to start after work. I am hoping that by not arming it that it starts just fine. I will keep you posted and also use the list that you provided to try and curb this. If I go buy a new battery will that help or does it matter if something is draining it? Thanks again.

Hi,
I won't sugest you to buy battery yet.Do as I have recommended to you .It is the best ROUTE.Don't spend unecessary $$$$.
Best regards,
Peter

1989 Honda CRX Fuel System   

gas doesn't appear to be getting to the carborator if add gas directly the car starts and runs until gas stopps being added directly to the carborator. Previously the car would start in the morning when the weather is cool and wouldn't start again until evening when the outside temperature was cool again.

Does this car actually have fuel injection, with an electric pump? These cars have a lot of toruble with the main relay going bad.

The car does not have feul injection but has an electric fuel pump.

Check for engine cranking voltage to the fuel pump. If you have voltage to pump and the pump does not run, the pump is bad.

If you don't have voltage, let me know.

1989 Honda CRX Ignition System   

my crx engages the starter when it wants to has blown the #14 alternator solenoid fuse and has recently stoped running wile driving no blown fuses

Okay,

How long does the engine take to restart after stalling? You need to check for spark after the stall IF the engine won't start for a while.

Does the starter always operate if the fuse does not blow? If not, does it make any sounds (clicking, etc)?

they are two seperate issues i have had my car stall twice once about 3-4 mounts ago i was driving n it stalled and it was my alternator solenoid fuse that blew this most recent time it stalled in the snow wile driving and i checked the fuses and none of them were blown but before this instance my starter has been engaging when it wants to i suspect maybe a starter relay for that problem but the ecu is making a strange pitched noise, and when i tried to drift start it since it because the car wouldnt start with the key i drifted it and popped the clutch and it didnt fire it just sounded dead and no fuses are blown, relays i need to check i need some trouble shooting i dont think anything in my distributer is bad and i switched out main relays already

Okay,

The first thing you need to check is for spark to the spark plugs. Do you have spark?

If the starter engages on its own, the battery should be disconnected and this should be addressed first. You can remove the starter and have it tested free at your local chain parts store. How often does the starter engage on its own? This is a very dangerous situation with a manual transmission.

no it doesnt just start on its own i mean sometimes it will start when i crank it over with the key an d some times it will just click at the relay bu this is not my poroblem i can fix that i just want to know why my car stalled while driving if its not the main relay i can figure the starter thing out just trying to tell you all of whats goin on incase for some reason the two are related problems of some sort and i know i need to check for fuel and spark and know how to do it i dont think its something so simple thats why i asked for someones advice on here

If the two are related it is most likely do to a bad battery terminal, cable or ground. Check thorougly and repair as necessary.

If they are not related, you need to see if you are losing spark. If you are, and it restarts after a cool down period, the igniter (module) is most common. How long does it take to restart?

yea i was thinking it was possibly the ignitor ill test it and see i have an extra one to throw in the distributer..do fuel pumps normaly just die like that tho

Fuel pumps can die like that, but it is uncommon for them to be repeatedly intermittent.

If it's the pump the engine will start breifly on a shot of carb/throttle body cleaner. Spray into the throttle body OR a large vacuum hose. Not too much... keep it safe. This is a quick test to let you know if lack of fuel is what's keeping the engine from starting.

the starter checked out good and im going to replace my poitive battery cables as well as my ground cable it had a bit of corosion...what should i check if the cables dont help anything? could it be my starter relay preventing it from not turning over? i need to get it to crank so i can check for fuel and spark

Test to see if you have voltage the small wire to the starter when the key is turned to the start position (wire unhooked from starter for test). The clutch safety switch can also shut down the starter.

i dont think the clutch saftey switch is it, my car was originaly an auto and i swaped it to a 5spd but i know theres neutral saftey for the auto too... where is it located

1988 Honda CRX Fuel System   

I went to the gas station this morning put gas in my car, as i was driving off the car died, I tried to restart it and it would not start its turning over, but seems not to be getting any gas,

If you were very low on gas (and especially if you frequently run on Empty) the fuel pump may have failed shortly after fuel was added. This may be the case anyway, but running low on fuel contributes to fuel pump failure.

What you should do, as always in the case of a no-start condition- is to check for spark to the spark plugs. Preferably using a spark tester.

If you have spark check fuel pressure with a gauge. Or at least listen for the fuel pump humming/buzzing (in the gas tank) when you first turn on the key and during engine cranking. If you lack fuel pressure (pump not running) the pump has probably failed. It requires testing for battery voltage (12V+) at the fuel pump during initial key ON and/or engine cranking. If you have voltage and the pump does not run, the pump needs replacing. If the pump runs but does not produce adequate fuel pressure, try a new fuel filter.

Let me know what you find and we'll go from there.

ok i will check on that, the car had a little less then a qauter of a tank when i put gass in it, I was hoping i blew a fuse or something lol,, that a girl for you

By all means check the fuses, good thinking! You may have lost spark or fuel due to a blown fuse, checking the fuses before testing for spark/fuel pressure is fine.

1988 Honda CRX Electrical / Lighting Systems   

OK my crx has a d15b vtech swap, I didn't do it but I bought the car this way. When I got it, it had a p13 computer in it and didn't run right. I upgraded to a p28 ecu and now it runs alot better but when it idles it goes from 1000-1500 rpms up and down. I replaced the fron 02 sensor. I think its the map sensor, I have the vacuum one the crx came with stock but the d15b (outa 92-05 jdm civic) has a map sensor on top of throttle body. Should I just plug into that? Do you think it will fix my problem?

Hello,

Do you get a 'check engine' light while the engine is running?

Do you have vacuum to the current map sensor?

Have you ruled out other causes for idle problems (vacuum leaks at hoses and gaskets)?

well the vacuums lines arnt all hoiked up right to the stock crx map sensor thats located on the fire wall. I was thinking I should just plugg into the one thats on the engine? No check engine light comes on. Not even when the O2 sensor was unplugged. When I got it the idle was missing and idling really ruff. I messed with the sensors and then between nuetral and 1/4 throtle it would basicly die out still no check engine. So I got to looking a tthe ecu and thats when I found it had the wrong one. I don't know if its supose to have a o2 sensor after the cat or not? But I am pretty sure its the map sesnor. If not what else could it be?

Vacuum leaks are the most common cause of idle fluctuation. A problem with the map can cause this too, as long with most other sensors.

Do your best to connect the vacuum lines and go from there. Check for vacuum leaks first then move onto sensors.

I've checked most of the vacuum lines. I used starter fluid to see
if it would run the idle up. Nothing happened. I don't think there arnt many vacuum lines I can see that run the engine. It's multiport and the biggest vacuum thin I can see is for the stock 88 crx map sensor. The new mapsensor is vacuum activated but mounts to the top
of the throtle bdy.

1986 Honda CRX Engine Hesitating When accelerating No pattern

When accelerating with moderate to heavy pressure on accelerator when either cold or warm, it hesitates and won't exceed about 3,000 rpms. When shifting to a higher gear, it immediately resumes normal operation. It is worse when climbing hills at higher elevations. Possible causes? O2 sensor or carburetor gasket?

It also will have trouble starting cold. It will only start sometimes when applying the accelerator at start. Without giving it gas, it just cranks. Also engine will die when driving, when cold.

Hi,
Your description sounds like fuel starvation. I would first change the filters, there is one at the tank and one under the hood. If that does not fix it, check fuel pressure and volumn. If not OK, replace pump. If OK, you may have a bad float valve in the carburetor.

Some problems in the ignition system can give similar symptoms from the coil, igniter, or distributor. Ignition problems will often be accompanied with backfiring and tend to change with the engine temperature.

I would think the fuel filters or pump would affect the car over a broader range than what it does and be more consistent, because at times the car runs just fine. Same concern with ignition/spark issues. Would the carburetor be the most likely source for intermittent problems? What about a head gasket which seem to be a problem for these cars, though I see no obvious signs of this, i.e. oil in coolant, coolant in oil, etc.? Thank you for a follow-up.

Your description sounds like only at higher RPM and load is when the problem occurs. This is the time when there is the greatest demand for fuel. The carburetor has a little tank in it that will delay the starvation. Going up a long hill at higher RPM's is when the greatest demand for fuel is present. The other time when there is a high demand for fuel, is when the engine is cold, just started. Sounds like that is happening too.

If you have a head gasket problem, it will give more obvious problems than what you are describing.

The carburetor can give such problems, but it seems like it may be more related to the throttle position than RPM. This would probably be where I would look next.

If you are real brave/crazy...I think there is a little glass on the side of that carburetor where you can see the fuel level in the carburetor. If it drops low while the car is acting up, then it is certainly a fuel supply problem.

A safer approach would be to drive up the hill until the power cuts, then turn the key off and shift to neutral at the same time. Then pull the car to the side of the road and check the fuel level on the sight glass. If it is not visible in the glass, replace your filters, test your pump and if you still have problems, replace the float valves.