Honda Passport

1999 Honda Passport Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Driving over a very washboard road, the blower on the A/C went out. Later I discovered the turn signals and cruise control was also not working. The fuses appear to be OK. Where do I look to find the problem, (please describe the part in question so I can find it), and how do I determine that it is the source of the problem before buying a replacement? Thank you, Roger

Hello
With you going over bad washboards and those items not working it sound like some of the terminals to the fuse box may have been jard loose. Check the wires running into the fuse box both under dash and in the engine compartment.
Heavychevy

Well I'll be!! I pushed in on all the connections and then checked the turn signal fuse, it was blown. The blower fuse was fine and I could not find anything for the cruise control. Went to check and everything worked!! I am happy to be $15 dumb rather than taking it to a dealer and being $100 STUPID!!
Thanks alot!
Roger

Your welcome. Glad to hear you got it fixed.
Heavychevy

/

Just doing a follow up to check the progress of your passport.
Heavychevy

1999 Honda Passport Engine   

The idle air control witch. We put in a new one but still runs fast. What can I do to get the idle down?

The idle air control witch. I'm waiting but
I have no reply.what's your problem?

Although the idle control switch can control the idle speed, traditionally a high idle speed can be attributed to a vacuum leak, either at the intake manifold gasket or a loose,disconnected or cracked vacuum hose.A vac leak can also sometimes be in the Power brake booster.

Is there something to use if I wanted to check for leaks in the vaccum hoses or other parts?

There is a device that shops use called a 'smoke machine' but I use an unlit propane torch.The motor RPM goes up several hundred when it sucks in a little propane. It does not hurt motor.That and careful examination of hoses too!

1997 Honda Passport Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When shifting No pattern

Hi and HNY to you and yours,
I change the starter by disassembling the old starter, removing it, disasembling the new starter, reasemling it in place and then mounted it. I did this because the alternative was removing the exhaust system. It was a tight fit but doable, however I did pull a wire bundle coming from the transmission area about one inch to get it out of the way. So all is done, the thing starts great and I am patting myself on the back. I drive it one mile to a care wash to clean my fingerprints off. It starts fine but the transmission light and the check engine light come on. Now it has very little power and feels like it didn’t down shift from drive to low. I drove it home and left it running for 20 minutes to dry it out if something got wet. Didn’t help...Next morning I let it run for 30 minutes, the lights went out and it drove fine. I gave it back to my friend got the $145.00 for the repair (including starter) and was as pleased as I could be. She drove it to lunch and on her way back it happened again. Very low power and tranny/eng. light came on. I drove it by shifting manually and it worked fine. A few minutes later the lights went out and it shifted fine in automatic. I drove it home OK and emailed you.
Thanks for reading this. Can you suggest anything?
Oggie

I just now started it. Let it fun till it warmed up. Increased the idle to 1400 rpm for 2 min. then drove it at varying speeds for 10 minutes. I stopped in the road, turned it off for 30 seconds and restarted it with the fan blower on. This causes the voltage to drop to about 12.7. The tranny/eng.light came on and there was very little power again. I shifted manually and it was fine, but in automatic it had little power.

Here is an observation on the charging system. If I drive at a steady speed on a level road the voltage reads 14v. If I just barely tough the gas the volts go down to 12.7 and stays there until everything is stable and constant again. If I turn the headlight or just the parking lights on the voltage stays at 14 volts. Isn’t that weird?

Hi;
You might want to make sure that all wires are tight at the starter. Also check that any connectors past that point are tight and accidentally did not come loose. Try looking at the ones at the transmission. But most likely what it sounds like is that one of the wire at the starter is not gettint a good connection. Also might try starting it and wiggling the wires see if you can duplicate your voltage drop. Good Luck Les.

When you went to the car wash did you wash the exterior only? If not, or there is any chance moisture could be the problem, the remedy is to disconnect and dry any suspect connections.

Do you have to be moving to create the drop off in voltage? Or does it strictly happen with a change in throttle position?
Answer what you can.

I drove this thing to a transmission repair shop 2 miles away,tranny/eng lights are on. He has been in business for 20+ years but has never seen this type of tranny. I showed him in the manual how to add fluid but he said he didnt have time today.Cant blame him. Anyway I heft there and drove about 50 feet and the tranny/ck.eng. lights went off. I drove it at different speeds for 15 miles,in drive, and all worked OK. Stopped at a parts store and bought a syphin hose and some tranny fluid. I am about to go out ,start the thing,remove the fill plug,add fluid untill it comes out,replace the plug an drive it untill it fails or works fine for 30 miles. Any suggestings before I do this?
Thanks,
Martin

If you have an autozone store nearby see if they will check the trouble codes. Most autozone stores provide this service free of charge. Knowing what the computer is seeing wrong should be very helpful.

Hi:
It's me again. You needs to give up and start listening to what people are asking you. I asked you a question and you turn around and release it. We were not there when you took it a part and put it back together. Never heard of someone taking a starter a part than taking the exhaust manifold off. Sounds like you tried to help a friend out and it backfired on you. Since you are not willing to listen to what us TECH have to say, You might go ahead and take it to your nearest dealership and let them troubleshoot it. Spend the money. Good Luck Les. Tell Mark I do not want paid for this answer. Question Realeased. Thanks

1997 Honda Passport Drive Train / Driveline Sticking When shifting No pattern

About every tenth stop the automatic transmission fails to downshift.
I shift it manually lo thru drive and it works fine. It may fix itself while I am driving it, or when I park it and come back it works fine.
The check trans and check eng lights come on but not consistently. Sometimes both light come on when the tranny works fine and some times the lights are not on when it fails to down shift.
I had the fluid flushed out and it shifts a lot smother and the frequency of failure is less but the problem is still there. The filter has never been changed.
I had it analyzed at a Honda dealer. They said it has a bad PCM module ($750.00 plus labor= $900.00). I would have been something mechanical or electromechanical like a solenoid but not an intermittent electronic module but then this is where you come in. Can you help me?
Oggie

Hello, electric solenoids are electronically controlled by the PCM. Honda is making a recommendation based on their diagnosis.

Saving money can be as simple as finding a remanufactured PCM through a national auto parts chain store or a salvage yard for a used one. So long as the ignition key is off while you work you can change a PCM yourself. Public libraries are a decent source for reference/how-to books.

Printed circuits in a car's PCM can be effected by temperature or simply a component breakdown in the circuit. They may not fail like a fuse would, but can fall in or out of specified/design values until the failure is a "hard fail" and never works again.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

1997 Honda Passport Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When shifting No pattern

The transmission works fine for about 15 minutes or less. Then when I come to a stop the transmission does not down shift. I can down shift manually thru 1st, 2nd,and third but it doesn’t go into the highest gear. If I stomp on it at 30-50MPH it will not down shift.
It will fix itself occasionally but in no predicable way. It may sit for 10 min. and work fine for a while but it always fails in 20 miles or less.

I changed the fluid, the filter, and the PCM (powertrain control module).The Honda dealer trouble shot the "bad"PCM.
Thanks for reading this.
Oggie

Are the solonoids replaceable without dropping the tranny?

Hi;
Have seen your question here for quite a while. I will give you some advice and hopefully I can help you. Not too familiar with this kind of vehicle.The solenoids are replaceable without dropping the tranny. You might want to check your TV( throotle body ) cable if equipped. Sometimes they will come out of adjustment. It should be located either at the throttle body or coming out of the firewall. If the transmission is completely electronic, you might want to get a schematic and troubleshooting guide. You should be able to disconnect your solenoids and check the resistance in them. The only way you are going to find the right values for your readings is to have a good manual. The dealer can order them for you or check your owners manual to see if they offer an adress to where you can order them. If the dealer was the one to tell you it was the PCM, I myself would be taking it back to them and having a serious talk with the service manager. If you can get no answer out of him try your local area rep for Honda. Good Luck Les.

1996 Honda Passport Electrical / Lighting Systems   

recently replaced the alternator, check engine light goes on and off, voltage meter goes down while acclerating, voltage jumped to almost 16v all warning lights started blinking, parked the car have not turned it on since

The first and most often overlooked thing that needs to be done is cleaning the battery terminals, grounds, connections at alternator, etc. Also make sure the belt is not slipping when you accelerate.

Did you have the same problem with the previous alternator? If not, you may have a defective alternator. Remove and have it tested at your local parts store.

Battery terminals clean, ground seems to be firmly attached to alt & fram, no belt slippage, when not accelerating on road voltage steady through 5,000 rpm, searching online 1995 passport recalled for voltage regulator problems I thought that voltage regulators were now part of the alternator. previous alternator was replaced after it stopped charging battery it was factory original

Sounds like you may have a faulty rebuild. If you bought your alternator from a chain parts store, they will usually test the charging system for you in the parking lot for no-charge.

1996 Honda Passport Ignition System   

I have replaced all ignitors due to "random miss-fire" issues. I have replaced the computer. Now the truck will not start at all. What would you recommend as the nest step. Perhaps replacing the ignition module?

Did you install a new computer, or a used one? Do you have spark when you crank the engine? Did you get the wires back on the right plugs? Did you have any starting problems before you changed your parts?

I replaced the original computer with at used computer. Prior to this the truck always started. Even when I switched back to the original unit, the truck failed to start.

All the wires are correctly connected; there is no spark whatsoever.

Did it ever start with the used computer? Do you have pulse from the fuel injectors?

The truck never started with the used computer. everything else checks out but there is no ignition spark

Does it have a security system? Can you communicate with the computer with a scanner? Does the check engine light come on when the key is on and the engine off?

It does not have a security system. The computer cannot give out codes since they clear out when the power is disconnected. Of course the check engine light is out as well.

Reconnect the original computer, turn the key on and observe the check engine light. If it does not come on, we have a problem with the powers, grounds, computer, bulb or wiring.

If the check engine light comes on, connect the scanner and see if you can read engine RPM while cranking.

1995 Honda Passport Electrical / Lighting Systems   

hazzard lights work fine at all four corners, but none of the turn signals work and the relay cycles rapidly

Are you saying the flasher relay click rapidly but no turn signal lights, and the interior indicators do not flash?

yes the flasher clicked rapidly as if there is a bulb out, yet all four corners flash on the hazzard

1995 Honda Passport Electrical / Lighting Systems   

the turn signals on this vehicle do not work however the hazzard flasher does work, and all four corners flash, but when you use the left or right turn signal the relay cycles rapidly but none of the lights flash. I asked this question earlier but was unsuccessfull in getting help it said that i accepted the answer, but we were still asking questions

I dont know what the other replys may have been but there are a few things that come to mind.One is the flasher itself.Because the hazards are an emergency safty issue,they are routed thru a different source.Next is most foreign vehicles have a fuse for lft and rt turn signals.Check these for continuity.Last it may be the turn signal switch itself.This is usually a combo switch that incorporates turn,lights etc.They have been known to fail.Check your owners manual to find the location of the first two mentioned.The last,unless you have some repair skills,may be a little more tricky.Let me know and Ill try to work you thru.

1995 Honda Passport Ignition System   

New battery in passport. When I turn the key, the engine will not even turn over. My husband said he checked the battery cables and they are good. Can't get it checked without towing.....any easy suggestions?

We can assume he installed the battery terminals correct? Some batteries have them reversed...easy to mix up.Also Honda's have sometimes additional small 10 guage wires clipped to the +pos terminal and additional wires on the ground side. Usually new batteries are fully charged.Turn on the headlights to ensure they are bright. Asian cars have large 30-60 amp maxi fuses in the underhood fuse/relay box...That is about all you can do, unless you have jumper cables that you can use to boost from another car.

The battery was installed a month ago and has worked fine. The lights work.

if the battery is ok, then what?

hello?

another mechanic

Try the screwdriver test as I outlined...anything more will require
test equipment.

ok. thanks.

If your battery is dead (no lights of any kind, no power anywhere), it can be removed and taken to Advance Auto (Parts America) and they will charge the battery (free service). Eye protection should be worn when changing a battery.

Note- Many insurance policies cover towing and/or roadside assistance (includes jump-starting). Check your policy OR call your insurance provider.

Autozone and/or others may also offer free battery charging. Call ahead.

I said below the battery is fine. The lights work.

Sorry I missed the part about the lights.

Try shifting to neutral (brake firmly applied) and see if this makes any difference.

I just turned the key, put it in neutral, brakes applied and turned the key, nothing. It doesn't turn over at all. thanks

Do you (or husband, etc) have a test light OR multimeter (DC voltmeter)?

Also have him try firmly wiggling the cables, they can look good but be corroded under the rubber coating.

that worked! THANK YOU!!!!!

Wiggling the cables worked?

yes, we did not have one of those volt testers. So we got lucky with jiggling the cables. I am so happy! I am laid off, no money to fix.....THANK YOU!!!

I hope you resume work soon.

Were the terminals slightly loose or do you think the problem is in the cable itself? The terminal could be cleaned with baking soda/water mix and it wouldn't hurt the cable either. Something should probably be replaced but I understand no tool and lack of money can makes things impossible. If the cable must be jiggled again, be sure eye protection is worn. A bad connection can cause a spark, which in worse case scenario could cause the battery to explode--err with caution.

Stop back in a few days and give an update. Stop back sooner if you have a problem.

I was wrong. Get this--he's at work, so he's texting me this......all he did was turn the key.. (it's really cold here in Ohio now) and it started. I tried just turning the key for 3 days and nothing. The 4th day, today, it worked. So, does that sound like the starter is going bad maybe? If so, does starter fluid help a dying starter? I know starters are expensive. This is a 1995 passport with 222,000 miles. I paid $900 for it 3 months ago. I had a new battery put in it. I don't think it's worth a new starter.....what do you think?

No, starter fluid is actually called starting fluid. It aids the engine in 'starting' or 'firing up' but has nothing to do with 'engine cranking' which is the starters job.

If he has a warm place to work he can triple check the wiring to the starter. Make sure he disconnects the battery first and warn him to get under a vehicle that is not safely supported (a jack can fail at anytime and should never be trusted).

If the starter or starter solenoid is bad you could save significantly by buying a used starter. Still, it would be better to test the wiring and confirm the starter is bad. An adequate tester is available at Walmart for under $20. A simple test light would work for the major test, which would cost a few dollars OR less.

believe it or not, I know more about cars than he does.....I'll probably do this myself. I'll test the starter, then if needed, I never thought about a used one. Doug, did you get the $28.50 I paid to all-parts, or did the first mechanic who helped me? You are the one who should have gotten it. Is there any way that next time I need help to make sure I get you and you get the money? Thanks, Polly

I will, in time, get half of your offer IF the question is not released and a refund is not given. The site keeps the other half. The price fluctuates a lot recently. I assume this happens because the site admin is exploring different prices and evaluating conversion rates.

You can request me within the question area, if you wish.

If you leave your email address (I don't have it) I'll send you info on the starter (used prices, etc) along with more testing informatiom.

thanks Doug. I'm Polly and my email is:

[redacted] Can you tell my dream is a cobra convertible? A 2004 model, black, black top, whipple supercharger, bassani exhaust......
thanks again and I will end this thread so you can get paid.

1994 Honda Passport Engine Making Noise Happens always Always

There is a steady knocking noise that does stop when "revving" the engine up. Lifters and timing belt have been replaced. After replacing timing belt, when first started the engine it didn't make the noise for about 30 seconds and then it started again.

hello
this knocking is most likely due to a bad lifter or a connecting rod not seated correctly in the lifter.
the lifter could have collaped due to the incorrectly seated push rod
you can pinpoint the cylinder with a stethescope listen for the knocing cylinder and you may have to visually inspect the valves to see if they are phisically moving
or if there is a large gap or lash from rod to lifter not being closed
starter tap or turn engine by hand

Hello I did not hear back from you was wondering if were able to solve the knocking ?

When revving up the engine to a higher RPM it stops

With what I have read so far, I would take a good look at the timing belt. If only off by one tooth it can have this result and when you rev the engine your changing the timing enough to stop the noise. The bad part is the noise might be a valve hitting inside the engine. Good luck .. let me know. Al

1990 Honda Passport Engine   

My honda wouldn't start, I changed the all plugs and it started right up. I was attempting to set the timing and the engine stopped, now it is hard to start. While doing all this we had it jumped because of a dead battery. Now the alternator light is on and the it doesn't seem to be working at the same time the heater fan quit working. I can jump it but it is hard to start now then it will die after a few min. Then I have to wait a while before it will start. The compression is all around 120-140 it is a si 2.1 litre. I checked all fuses and they are good. It also has been idling eratically. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

If the battery light is on, the alternator is not working, or a fuse is blown. Check the big fuses in the fuse box. Check for power at the alternator on the wires when the key is on.

All the fuses are good, say it has a bad alternator, which I suspect it does, it just a coincendence that it just went out the same time I just got it running. It is hard to start now any ideas why the heater fan quit working also? Thanks.

If by any chance you hooked up the cables backwards when you gave it the boost, you could have blown any number of electronics. Look at each issue by itself. If there is a common problem, you will find it on the first thing you fix.

Alternators are not designed to charge a dead battery. Failure often results when the battery is run down and the car is jumped (especially if the jumper cables are not left on for ten to fifteen minutes).

Use a test light or DVOM to see if you have battery voltage to the heater fan with the fan set on high. If you do the failure was probably coincidental.

Did you mark the distributor location when you started so you can return it to its previous setting. I don't think ignition timing was causing your no start condition, but may be contributing to the problem now.

How is spark? Have checked fuel pressure?

Have you tried any of the things suggested?

Where are you now with the car?