Honda Prelude

2001 Honda Prelude Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I need to know the ground wire color as well as the color of the IGN rev signal, speed harness signal, speed, and the IGN on when key is on. email me back please

Hello, Weekends are tough to access the data you need but hopefully I can get you the info you need today.

Do you have a FAX number?

Thanks,

Roger

yes send it to [redacted]

From the Mitchell 1 OnDemand 5 Data Base I have sent you eight pages to help you. (I did not use a cover sheet.)

Please let me know the quality of the FAX and how I may assist you further.

Thanks,

Roger

2000 Honda Prelude Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When shifting Always

I have a 2000 prelude manual. I recently had a new clutch put in from a Honda dealership and about a month later my clutch pedal loses pressure. Somone told me that it could be my slave cylinder. I wouldl check the clutch fluid and it would be copletely empty. I had to refill it about once a week. I had a friend bleed the line but now i have no clutch pedal at all it just sticks to the floor and i have to pull it up. Could this be my slave cylinder or did the dealership not do something right?

It could be the slave cylinder or the line from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder.

Did it work at all after it was bled? Their is likely air in the system now. It will have to be visually inspected to determine where it is leaking.

If the clutch components were not installed properly (ie- bolts coming loose), it is possible the dealer is at fault.

Yes, it worked after it was bled. sorry i failed to mention that :). It was dumping all the fluid. After that we bled it and it worked fora couple of months, and now its just no pressure on the pedal whatsoever.

2000 Honda Prelude Engine   

After driving the car for over 30 min, the car starts to vibrate a little while driving. Then when i bring the car to a stop (red light), the car starts to vibrate at low RPMs, and i have to give gas for it to stay on, otherwise RPMs go lower than 700 and the car shuts off. The car generates a lot of black smoke from the exhaust when i give it gas and the temperature is normal. The mechanic changed the spark plugs, main rotor and checked the engine light - the computer said it was the fuel pressure. I have a vtec controller - but even with the controller off, the same problem occurs.

Hello, What is the fuel pressure? Black smoke could mean running too rich. What is the coolant temperature sensor reading?

Turning off the vtec doesn't address fuel pressure does it? How could it?

Roger

Roger,
The fuel pressure is low, there was an electrical component that he thought might be coming loose while driving, taped it together to make sure it stays in place (he said that if this went loose, it could cause bad readings of the fuel pressure) but when i stalled, it was still in place so i don't think thats the problem. Is there any way i can read the coolant temperature sensor or would i have to take it to a mechanic?

The vtec controller can change the fuel to air ratio mapping to +-30%. But i've disabled this part, and it still gives problems.

You'll need a scanner (not a code reader) to monitor any sensor on the engine.

Scanners are expensive. I recommend that a good foreign car repair shop take a look. This could be a tricky diagnosis.

Consider starting out by authorizing ONLY a diagnosis fee and get a handle on the expected cost to repair before going any further.

Roger

Roger

2000 Honda Prelude Engine   

75,000 miles - auto trans.
I was driving when the engine started making a noise similar to a leaf or something rubbing on the fan. The slower i went the louder it got. I put about 10 miles on "after" the noise started when the engine began to loose power and then complete shutdown. I had a similar event happen in my acura and it turned out to be the timing belt. Could this be the problem? I dont remember a noise with the acura. I didnt try to restart in fear of doinf dammage. Ideas?

How long did it take for to shut down? If the valve timing (belt/chain) is disturbed shut down will be quick.

The noise started when I was going about 50MPH and lasted for about 8 miles. As I slowed down to turn off the hwy, it got louder and the fluttering slowed. I turned the corner and when I accelerated, the noise got louder and then it stalled. I didn't try restarting... I just towed it home.

what engine do you have?
Do you know weather or not the car had overheated?

I am not sure what you mean by which engine. It's a V-Tech - if you need numbers let me know. All guages on the console were normal, no overheating, no lights, besides the check engine light just before before the noise started.

I want to make sure that we are talking about the 2.2L (2156cc).
First try to turn the engine at the crank by hand or with a socket and see if it turns freely or if something evidently locked up.
Another possibility would be the timing belt and if it stripped or broke then there will also most likely be some internal damage
Turning the engine over on the starter would do mega damage to the engine as some of the valves would be open and be hit by the rising piston - ouch.
If the engine seems to be locked up from turning then you can remove a valve cover
to see if the valves are moving.
Another way to check this out would be to scan the PCM for stored codes to see if it recorded a malfunctioning componet.

1999 Honda Prelude Engine Vibration Happens always Always

what kind a job i need to do to keep engine not knocking and quite like brand new, it only have 67,000mile on it now.

Hate to say this.. knocking is the final death noise an engine makes.. kinda the engine hollering.. HELP. Now with that said... you need to see a mechanic immediately and do not drive the car until the true source of the noise is found. Let me know if I can be more help. AL

Just a follow up. What was the found problem with your engine? Let me know. Al

1998 Honda Prelude Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When idling When warm 

After you drive for 30 minutes or so and stop at a light or something the car tries to go in and out of First gear. It kida goes from the gear to neutral and back again. When you get ready to take off it goes into gear. It shifts great besides that problem.

hello sir
what you need is a transmission tune up and that should solve your problem.
you must make sure that they change the trans oil filter and check for metal shaving at the bottom of the oil pan
I know this will help

That was the first thing I thought also, but there is no transmission pan. Also the filter is in the center of the transmisson. So to get to that filter you have to take it out and open it up. I am draining the fluid now and there is not any metal in the fluid.

the trans filter can be changed without taking out the transmission I asure you the best way you to do this is to give that headache to a oil change location.
they have the lift and tools needed to make it a breeze to chang your filter and itn is not expensive.

1998 Honda Prelude Engine Malfunction When driving No pattern

yesterday, i was driving my 98 prelude at 40mph, the engine shut down suddenly, then i restart the engine, it works normally. so, can u tell me what's wrong with my car?

Honda had a recall for ignition switches on cars built during about 1[redacted] . The complaint was that the car dies while driving. Restarting was sometimes difficult.

Consider checking with Honda to see if your car is included in the recall. If so, the repairs should be at no cost to you.

Thoughts?,

Roger

Hello, are you there?

Trying to keep up,

Roger

1997 Honda Prelude Engine   

Hello there !! I have got a 2.2 Vti one with 40,000 miles, manual and 4WS, I have installed Helix power tower, stage 1 G-box(from Nextlevel Performance), FSE fuel boost valve, Ecotek valve, performance back box(powerflow)....when we installed the power tower and started the car the rev was going up and down until the engine went warm but in about couple of days this problem went away and now the rev do go up and down but very slightly which can be ignored.....I have ordered an induction kit for it and was wondering after installing the induction kit will this rev up and down come back again and how do I fix it. I know this thing that the rev goes up and the ECU cuts it down and the cycle goes on until the choke goes off.......the same thing happened with me when I installed the rocker cover breather so I took it off. Your help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks and bye for now.

Believe this is a common problem with fuel injected engines. Your Idle Speed Control/Idle Air Control (2 names for the same type of component) is dirty and needs to be removed and cleaned. Not difficult. Let me know if this helps. AL

1997 Honda Prelude Engine Failing When driving When warm 

When I parked for at least five minutes and drive in low speed (>45mph), my engine turned off on me. However, the lights and radio were still on. I don't see any engine lights or other malfunction lights light up. I have changed the transmission three times, the transmission computer, the internal & ignition coil, gas filter, fuel pump relay, and four fuses. Still, the problem wasn't fixed. Also, I have checked if there any leak on the electrical wire that wire from the fuses, and don't see anything wrong. Do you know what's wrong with the vehicle?

Honda had a recall for ignition switches on cars built during about 1[redacted] . The complaint was that the car dies while driving. Restarting was sometimes difficult.

Consider checking with Honda to see if your car is included in the recall. If so, the repairs should be at no cost to you.

Thoughts?,

Roger

Hello, I'm still hoping to hear from you. Have you read my previous message?

Thanks,

Roger

1997 Honda Prelude Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

All my Dash boardlights stay on and when the car is running it will not turn off. I tried changing the alternator but still the same. I saw a simular question that said its the Inhibiter switch What is the Inhibiter switch what does it do wheres it at and look like. Thank

Sounds like you have a failed igniton switch. Or if someone has been modifying the wiring, they may have crossed a hot wire with gages wire. If it is the ignition switch, the lights will turn of when the ignition switch is unplugged. If it is still on, remove fuses until the lights go off. That will be the circuit that has the problem. If there are crossed wires, there will be 2 different fuses that will make the lights go out. The inhibitor switch is not likely to cause your problem. It is in the center console, on the gear shifter, used only on automatics and has about 6-10 wires.
Best wishes!

I did just like you said and it was the switch, I puchased another one and everything is working fine. Thanks so much for your help, I just wish I would have found this web site a long time ago. This is a great service and well worth the money.

Thanks Again
David Solis

Great!

1997 Honda Prelude Engine Malfunction When shifting When cold

My 1997 Honda Prelude with a sport shift 4 speed automatic transmission shifts incredibly hard when the engine is cold. Shifts also take a couple seconds longer than usual. This happens at temperatures from the mid 70's on down, until the engine warms up. Normal shift during city driving with a warm engine is smooth. The idle speed of the cold engine is around 1400 rpm, warm idle is 950 rpm. Literature I have read indicates that it's possible one of the shift control solenoids or pressure control solenoids may be faulty. Another possibility is a mesh screen in the gasket below the Lock/Up Control Solenoid may have debris in it. Still, the idle speed may be out of adjustment, or the Tranmission Control Module may be faulty. I am having trouble determining the cause and best course of action. Should I replace the transmission fluid with a synthetic that functions better at low temperature? Should I adjust the idle speed? Should I replace the solenoids in question? Should I attempt to clean the screened gasket? Should I replace/adjust the Transmission Control Module? Or should I install a used/rebuilt transmission?

Hello, Have you considered a road test with a qualified transmission technician? Surely he can connect a good scan tool and see what is going on.

I realize that the car will be warmed up when you get there but you might arrange to leave the car and show up for the road test when the car is cool.

I would not be comfortable just dropping the car off for an opinion. I'd want to be in the car for the road test while the condition is present and the technician drives the car.

National auto chain transmission shops will road test your car. Some do it for free. Cottman's is one such company that advertizes a free check. Are they in your area? Call who ever is and see what they charge.

I really doubt anyone can make a better recommendation without the priveledge of a road test with you. Guesses cost retail prices and you deserve an informed diagnosis to keep your cost down.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

Thanks for the prompt reply.

The vehicle has recently passed two transmission inspections from AAMCO and from a Honda dealer. Currently the car is at a local Honda dealer, being looked over and test-driven for the same problems I have described to you. Honda's policy is to replace rather than service transmission, especially in preludes; and I am looking to preferably solve the issue without outright replacement. They didn't seem terribly knowledgeable about the Prelude, so I have ventured to the internet for information and advice.

You have discovered accurate information concerning the problem you are having. The only thing left out is the possibility of an engine control problem which can cause shifting concerns in modern automobiles. If you have noticed a significant change in idle speed or cold engine performance don't rule this out.

While there is no guarantee it'll work, people have remedied the problem with a professional flush and fill. If you can find a synthetic that is compatible with your transmission, it'd be fine.

Honda does use a "You need a new transmission" policy, at least it seems that way. Late model Honda tranmsissions are getting worse, and people are supposed to buy these cars for the legendary quality.

"The local Honda dealer found the shift control/clutch pressure control solenoids A and B to be faulty. They warranty their work (12 mos/12,000 mi), and estimate approx. 625 dollars total. They seem very confident that the part replacement will solve the problem. However, I can buy a remanufactured transmission for 1[redacted] , no estimate on labor. I'm still going to replace the transmission fluid with synthetic either way, I just don't know whether I should go with a remanufactured transmission or part replacement. The Honda guys said the rest of the tranny looked good, but could use a fluid change."

I wonder how many of these remanufactured transmissions are simply ones that came from cars like yours and had faulty solenoids replaced.

Another option would be to contact a transmission shop/import specialist and have them quote a price for solenoid replacement with oem parts.

When you say you said they warranty their work, does this simply mean the solenoid will continue to function, not fall out, etc AND that this is the problem?

The dealership has given a verbal guarantee that the solenoid replacement will fix the problem. The transmission/import specialists in the area are largely from chains, like AAMCO and others. From what I've read, the majority of prelude owners aren't satisfied with the quality of work done at these locations. I've decided to go with the part replacement at the dealer, and see how many miles I can pull out of the tranny before I need to replace the whole thing. Thanks for all of your input.

1997 Honda Prelude Fuel System Won't Start When starting 

i bought a 97 honda prelude at an auction when i try turning on nothing happens, it only honks and nothing else happens i thought it would be the fuel pump ignition switch but im not sure, what can it be?

when you say it only honks do you mean when you try to start it or when you honk the horn yourself

it honks when i honk it, not by itself, but that is all it does. nothing else turns on.

ok check main fuses under the hood by battery

did you find the problem

1997 Honda Prelude Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving No pattern

Sometime when I start my car (auto) the gear light on the dash will start flashing and this causes the cars gear changes to become really rough and clunky.
I was told that the fault code relates to the TPS and to get by I need to pull the radio fuse to reset the fault code. Sounds a little stupid to me?
So far no one else seems to have had this problem and I really dont want to fork out for a new throttle body as Hond wont sell me a TPS seperately.

the tps does control the shifting try this website for part or do search online

did you find the problem

1997 Honda Prelude Chassis / Suspension & Steering Making Noise When accelerating When cold

When accelerating from a stop with the outside temperature at 40 degrees or less, there is a popping noise I can hear and feel. It seems like it is coming from the left front but I am not sure. If the temperature warms up, the car will never make the noise. Also, if I drop it into 2nd gear (ie:turning a corner) and then accelerate, it sometimes makes the noise. I was thinking motor mount because it only happens when the weight of the engine is shifted, but they are fine. The car makes no noise over bumps which makes me think it cannot be a suspension problem.

Hello, How many miles on your car? Have you inspected the front wheel drive constant velosity (CV joint) joint grease boots for a rupture?

CV joints usually make noise during acceleration and most frequently when turning a corner. A torn boot lets the grease out. The joint pops from lack of lube.

The fix would be to replace the CV joint grease boot after cleaning and inspecting the CV joint. When the boot is replaced the joint is repacked with grease. The boot keeps the grease in and dirt out.

There is also the option of replacing the drive axle assembly with a factory rebuilt one.

Roger

The car has 114,000 miles. The c/v boots are not torn or leaking any grease. The noise only occurs when the weight of the engine is shifted. When turning the wheel back and forth, there is no noise.Visually, everything is fine. The biggest problem is that it only makes the noise while moving. Attempting to isolate the cause of the noise has thus far been impossible because it will not make the noise when we are able to look at the components.

The CV joints can still be the noise source. They do wear. See if you can get a road test with a repair shop foreman.

YOU should drive first and demonstrate the noise to the foreman. Then let the foreman drive but be sure to ride along until he can duplicate the noise

Ask for an estimate.

Roger

1997 Honda Prelude Fuel System   

Hello. My 1997 Honda Prelude 2.2 Vti Does not run very well, it seems like it gets little fuel and chugs a bit when accelerating, have changed the plugs and fuel filter. The car does also create a weird noise from the rear driverside, where the fuel pump is located when it is parked, sounds like the fuel pump sucks the fuel out of the pipes all the time. What could this be?

First determine if noise happens with key shut off. If not and pump is noisy, I recommend replacement. A noisy pump is usually a sighn the pump is 90-95 % worn out.At the same time, clean out all fuel lines and check them over carefully.
A fuel press regulator that is stuck open can sometimes cause the pump to run more than usual.If pump stays on, key off, check incoming voltage at ignition switch and pump relay
But remember, a noisy pump will fail soon.

The ignition is off, and this happens only when the car is parked after a run. Then the pump seems to wake to life. Like its sucking something out of the tank for some reason. It does not make any noise when running, and it sounds allright when i turn the key 1 notch. How can i see if the Fuel Pressure Regulator is failing?

You require a pressure guage and some appropriate fittings to attach.
If pump 'running on' after key off
then you will require a volt/ohm meter
to test the switch and the relay.

Then i will try to measure the relay, and Fuel Pressure Regulator and see if that is the problem. Its an old car, so these parts i guess have to be changed from time to time :) Thank you very much for your help! :)

You are welcome.Parts should be reasonably found for that era Hondas

1996 Honda Prelude Chassis / Suspension & Steering Making Noise When turning Always

The ABS light comes on after about 2 mins driving and a clattering noise coming from front drivers side. All brakes/discs recntly done and checked. could it be the drive shaft and if so would this affect the ABS sensor or what other things could cause light to be coming on? Lights all fine and none flickering or low.

Could you further describe the clattering noise... under which conditions does it occur- when accelerating, cruising, braking, etc? Does the clattering cause the car to slow down or require more power to maintain speed?

I'll check to see if there are any bulletins for this problem.

1995 Honda Prelude All Part Groups Stalling When accelerating Always

The car is hard to start and when I put the accelartator pedal to the floor it backfires and sputters but if I slowly press the accelarator it does ok until the VTEC kicks in then sputters a little.

Hi:
Sounds you like you got atiming problem. I'm guessing that it is double overhead cam. The timing belt on this models can only have so much deflection between the two cams. If deflection is greater than specified it has the tendency to run out of time. You might want to check it first with a timing light and see where the timing is. than that to check the timing belt, the front cover has to come off. Good Luck Les.

1995 Honda Prelude Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens sometimes No pattern

radio turns off for about 1 second then back on. smoetimes when this happens the abs light will flash and/or hazard lights will come on for same amount of time. turn signals also blink fast sometimes but not always. dome light occassionally quits working and original stereo backlight would sometimes go out. stereo is sony professionally installed.

Hello, When did these symptoms start? Before or after the stereo installation?

Please advise,

Roger

the dome light and the backlight on the original stereo before the sony stereo installation. all the others were around three months after the stereo install. it happens eraticly. sometimes happens every few minutes. stopping car and restarting usually fixes or reduces problem for some time. seems to be getting progressively more frequent.

This is tough trying to find what is in common between these systems.

Fuse #18 powers the stereo and the cigar lighter relay. It is switched hot when the ignition switch is in "ACC" or "ON". Have you pulled fuse #18 and looked for signs of discoloration or loose fit? With it removed, will the abs or flashers act up? I'm wondering about power backfeeding to an unwanted ground caused if fuse #18 ceases to output power for a second or two.

On the ground side of the circuits:

Ground G302 at the front of the center console is for the radio, turn signal/hazard relay, integrated control unit and alot more. Is it tight? Any damaged wires?

Ground G300 is below the driver's seat. It relates to several interior systems also. What is the condition of this ground connection?

You may find yet another ground point on the left side of the center console.

Do you want me to fax the page I have showing these grounds by schematic illustration? Would a cover sheet be needed?

Roger

a schematic on would be wonderful.
ATTN: gabriel koslik
C/O danielle stickell
[redacted]

Okay, I'll fax the ground distribution that is most applicable to the systems involved excludind ABS. There are 5 more pages of grounds that I did not copy as they are overkill for this question. Let me know if you want them anyway.

Roger

1995 Honda Prelude Chassis / Suspension & Steering  When driving Always

I recently replaced the OEM tires and wheels on my 95 Prelude Si from 205-55-15 to 215-50-17 tires/wheels, and after the replacement I get an "ABS" light after approximately 30 seconds after the car starts rolling. It appears it's not based on distance, but time. Seems to happen at 30-45 seconds whether I travel 10 feet or 300 yards. Please help!

You have gone from 15's to 17's.The rotation of the tire is most likely being missread by the ABS sensors at the wheel telling the ABS brain rotation is inconsistant to what what info is being recieved.17's take a little longer to get around than 15's,thus an errant message is being sent.A scan of the ABS system would possibley get a fault code to verify.

1995 Honda Prelude Engine   

VTEC [140KW] Prelude has brief loss of power at about 3000rpm. Service and new exhaust manifold have not helped. What steps and in what order should I take to address the problem.

Sometimes this type of problem is hard to identify, but not always.

The first thing that comes to mind is the TPS (throttle position/angle sensor). The TPS is a potentiometer that lets the ECU (computer) know how far the gas pedal is pressed. If there is a glitch at a certain point it can cause performance problems. I assume it gets better after 3000rpm's?

I Could get that checked by an xpert and if that is OK?

Do you perform any repairs to the car yourself?

Are you just looking to avoid being taken when you visit a shop.

Either way I'll stick with you through the repair...

Hi Douglas, 'tis my son's car and he knows less about them than I, so yes it is a case of narrowing the options before taking to an expert. There are VERY few in Whangarei New Zealand. Cheers Neil

Do you have a multimeter?

No but I have an auto-electrician mate who does, so that could be a good start

Yes, check the TPS with a multimeter. If you need instructions I give them. A multimeter can be used to find a glitch in the sensor.

The problem may require the car to put on a scanner, so sensor values can be monitored.

Is the problem present if you rev the engine in park/neutral?

Thanks Douglass, could you send the instructions? That would be great. My mate is happy to put his multimeter wherever needed.
I suspect it is a "no" to whether it loses power when revved in neutral but tis hard to know as there is no load on the engine.

Copy and Paste the following link into your Address Bar-

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/0c/fa/e[redacted] d800cfae9/repairInfoPages.htm

It contains basic testing information for sensors. You friend can also test the TPS to see if there is a glitch when monitoring ohms while slowly opening the throttle (the ohms should transition smoothly).

Is New Zealand warm all year long? We are in our 5th month of cold temps (still -12C and colder at night). When it warms above zero during the day, it actually feels warm.

Hi there

I understand my Dad has been talking with you to find a solution to an issue I have with my Prelude.

I just need to clarify a few things. The prelude I have is a generation 4 Honda Prelude VTiR, it has a 2.2l V-Tech engine(H22A) (It is not the 1[redacted] prelude = Generation 3 refer http://www.preludezone.com/)
If you think the website link you’ve referred us to http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/0c/fa/e[redacted] d800cfae9/repairInfoPages.htm is still valid just let us know.

I also need to clarify what the issue is as well.
The car sometimes stutters during acceleration between 3000 and 4000 RPM, it only appears to stutter while the accelerator pedal is being moved forward(or being pushed forward to increase fuel flow and throttle) during moderate acceleration. It doesn’t happen under heavy acceleration or light acceleration but is most obvious when the engine us under load ie driving up a hill or accelerating normally out of a corner or acceleration with around town driving.
The problem can occur anywhere between 3000 and 4000 but most often it will be around 3200 RPM(while the accelerator is moving forward), the acceleration will be smooth below 3000 and then you can feel the car loose power but still accelerate between 3-4000 and then the acceleration will pick up again within 300 RPM of the stutter starting(eg if the stutter starts at 3200 the acceleration will have returned to normal by 3500 RPM or if the stutter starts at 3500 it will have improved by 3700 RPM.
It’s very hard so make the problem occur on demand it happens when you least expect it and are not thinking about it – I cant make the problem happen on demand.

Are you still with us Douglas?

temps high here at about 30C during the day. Low temps in winter can get down to 3C

Hello,

Yes TPS testing is universal for the most part. Be sure to inspect wiring/connectors to this and other sensors. Inspection should also include body and engine grounds.

Most other testing would require the use of a scanner to monitor the computer inputs to see what is happening when the failure occurs.

Does the check engine light come on at any point while the engine is running?

No the check engine light doesn't come on the problem is too subtle for the CPU to detect.
So should I still use that other website to check the current in the unit even though it for an older model prelude?

Let me know if one of these more closely matches your Prelude--

http://pdftown.com/search/node/prelude

If one of these matches save it to a disk/etc so you have a permanent repair manual (these free sites seem to come and go).

Thats great thanks - its the 1993 Honda Prelude manual for the Generation 4 Prelude that goes with my car.

So whats the first step I should check?

The tps along with grounds, connections, etc.

1995 Honda Prelude Ignition System   

Car was running fine then tach started juming up and down then stalled. This happened a couple times then it quit for good. Car sat for two months then finally had it towed to shade tree type place. They called and said its fixed and we really don't know what the problem was we just cleaned the fuel rail and it fired up. I drove it for about 200 miles and it did the same thing again, tach starts jumpin up and down then it was dead. During that 200 miles it ran perfect. I have replaced coil, sensor trigger in dist. and rotor wires and plugs?????

Hi, This car has a PGFI-Main Relay. I believe it is behind the left front kick panel near the fuse box.

Check the relay connector for evidence of heating up from a bad connection. Turn the key on (don't try starting the engine) and listen to this relay. It should click once, then a short pause, and click again. Does it?

If this relay malfunctions the fuel pump will lose power and so will the Engine Control Module.

Roger

1995 Honda Prelude Engine   

i have a 95 prelude vtec bb1 with a jdm h22a engine 5spd my problem is it runs rough at idle when cold sounds like an engine miss still does it when warm but not as bad actully alomost gone but its still there i have done a full tune-up msd cap msd rotor msd wires new coil ignition box with rev limiter. I disonnected the map sensor to see if there was any changes car ran worse when i did that i have no check engine light and performance is good i did install a aftermarket chip in the ecm a while ago car ran fine i thoght maybe ignition but no luck i was gonna try switching back to the other chip to see if there is any differance i'm pretty sure it's not the chip i was wondering if it's not a bad 02 sensor crank sensor i replced the fuel filter to i don't know i'm stuck what is it bad injector fuel pump going bad please help im going crasy

Hello, Have you tried flushing the injectors? If you were to unplug the injectors one at a time which one has the least change to the running of the engine?

Have you considered a compression test to see if a valve might be burned? Any chance of carbon build up on the valves?

Are you certain there are no vacuum leaks?

Roger

i have not tried to unplug injectors one at a time i'll do it shortly i will perform a comp test on monday i've looked and looked for a vac leak but i'll look agian i guess it's possible i have a burnt valve comp test to tell me that i don't think i would have carbon build up i always run 93 oct since i bought it 2 yrs ago i forgot to mention that i had loosen the rear cam to replace the cam plug it was leaking i didn't move the t-belt and found the rear mount was loose so i tightend it and a about a month later the problem started i will try these things u recommended hopfully some luck i'm an auto tech at a benz dealer w/only 2 yrs exp in the field 20 yrs old not as smart as u so i do appriecate ur help thanks

These are just suggestions to try. It's not at all about who is smarter so don't go there. I won't. I never stop learning.

Take whatever time you need.

Roger

1994 Honda Prelude Fuel System Won't Start Happens sometimes No pattern

This fault started 5 months ago. At very iregular times not relavent tohot o cold weather it will not start. The coil leads plugs diss. ecu cold temp sensor and it seems everythig has been changed. When not starting the plugs overfuel. The car has no other running faults. Can tou help.

How are you determining the plugs are overfueling? Is there gas mixing with the oil? Do the plugs get soaked with gas? Is there black sooty smoke from the exhaust when it finally starts?

Smell of fuel. Plugs are wet.

No sooty smoke

If it is not firing and you have changed the ECU and distributor check the coil during the next failure.

The following site gives instructions on testing the coil and igniter. Test during the failure period.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/0c/f2/cb/[redacted] d800cf2cb.jsp

Please do`es somebody have an answer this roundabout is now oval. I am talking to and asking technical people in their fields questions that seem to be unanswerable, surely this is not unique.

One time on starting the gas pedal was depressed then eased off to nearly foot off and it fired

The problem you are having is not unique. In fact their can be several causes. This is why diagnostics are necessary to pinpoint the problem, otherwise it is just guessing which can become costly.

If the car will sometimes start by varying the position of the gas pedal- the throttle position sensor is suspect. Check for diagnostic trouble codes stored in the ECU.

The ecu has never shown a fault code. Several times over this weekend I hve started the car o. This morning it coughed but will not start, strong smell of gas.

Tried again 4 hrs later still no joy sleight cough but not running

A slight cough indicates it's firing, at least intermittently.

Check the fuel pressure regulator for leakage. The diaphragm can develope a leak and allow fuel to flow through the vacuum hose. Pull off the vacuum hose to see if fuel is being drawn through the hose. Does the vacuum hose show signs of fuel leakage (if this is the problem the smell will be strong)?

If not, you'll have to check for spark to the spark plugs during the no start period. There is either lack of spark or excessive fuel.

No leakage. Good spark good fuel pressure. I t seems that occasionaly the initial fuel input is longer than 2 secs and it overfuels. Yesterday I tried to start it and nearly ran the battery down. Three hours later I tried again with the same results. I was about to commit hari kari but I tried again and it fired up on the first crank ???????????

We have inserted an electrical switch on the injector feed. If the car fails to start it is switched off and the car started on the fuel in the pots. When started the switch is reset to enable normal fuel flow to the injectors. So far so good

Good work to find a workable solution.

The only thing I can think of is a relay sticking. I am not sure if your car uses a fuel enable relay or it is controlled internally by the ECU.

How long does it take to start after you turn the switch off? Monitor the oil to make sure gasoline is not mixing with it.

With the switch off two or three cranks does it.(The model is 2.3i).A sticking relay would make sense but so has a lot of other theries. At the moment we seem to have solved the fault but not the cause. I have had several good mechanics (including yourself) trying to fathom this one, to the point that some want me to inform them of the outcome. I need a longer time to feel secure with the present work. Thanks A.E.Corbet

1994 Honda Prelude Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Temperature indication is messed up. The gauge frequently shows warm to overheating, but it is not extra hot. I replaced the sending unit. It seemed to work, but only for about 30 miles. Then it indicated overheating again. Once it shows hot, if I shut it off and restart, it goes back to a normal temperature. I can't find any electrical diagrams on the gauge system. Thanks.

It does not sound like an electrical problem.If problem did not change, with sender replacement, it might be a guage problem.You might try installing a separate mechanical guage to test guage accuracy.
Might have air in cooling system, or a small head gasket problem.Try starting when engine cold,rad cap off. Watch for coolant flow,there should be little.After a few minutes, the flow should increase substantially. (thermostat opening) Also watch for bubbles in coolant.
If you can get access to one of those infrared temp guns, then you can check thermostat opening temp, and rad temp.
Check rad in different spots, if hot with cooler spots, the rad might be partially blocked.

I guess electrical problem is all relative. I have used a surface probe for temperature and checked the coolant flow. The problem does not appear to be a real overheating problem. It appears only to be a "display" problem. My biggest problem is that I have no schematic of how the temperature indicator works. My assumption is that either the wiring has an issue or the gauge panel. I suspect that the gauge panel is a circuit board and has some smarts to it. It takes the analog signal from the sending unit and converts it to the bar graph on the display. If I had information on what the signal levels should be and how it actually functioned, I could debug further. I don't even know if the gauge is separate from all other systems or is it in any way integrated with other systems (ECU?). Do you have a schematic or know how the system works?

You can access an online repair manual at the following site--

http://autozone.com/newGuide,yes/shopping/repairGuide.htm


Enter year, make, model, etc to access the repair guide. Navigate through the guide to "Electrial Diagrams."

If this don't have enough information, and you understand diagrams well, consider buying subsription information (a DIY-er version of servive info used by many independent garages. This will give you full access to detailed diagrams and troubleshooting procedures-

www.eautorepair.net/

Copy and Paste the links into your address bar.

I looked at the information at AutoZone. The instructions and the diagrams are the same ones used in many locations. I have them in a Chilton manual. They do not have enough information.

Any idea how the system works? Does it run through the ECU? Where are the brains that control the bar graph indicators on the Prelude? Any ideas?

1993 Honda Prelude Engine Chugging When accelerating When warm 

Hi
Problem
Engine idles and runs fine apart from a flutter on pickop after a period of deceleration. The engine misses a beat or two after a deceleration.

I have changed the plugs and checked over the ignition components leads, distributer cap etc. all look in good condition.

I have also included injector cleaner with the fuel for a couple of weeks to no avail.

Can this be due to a momentary fuel starvation problem? If so what is the fix?

Hello, Consider the function of the throttle position sensor. It may have a dead spot just above closed throttle that causes fuel to delay. Is the fuel pressure okay?

Was oil present on the spark plug ceramic when you removed the plugs? This would mean a leaking valve cover gasket 'O'-ring and cause missfire due to shorting the spark down the side of the plug.

Is altitude a factor here?

Roger

The spark plugs look excellent no oil or deposits of any kind just a nice uniform amber colour across all four plugs. Altitude is not a factor.

I have also noticed it on hard acceleration, in that it misses a couple of beats as one accelerates hard.

Hard acceleration misfire when spark plugs are known to be good/new usually can be blamed on plug wires. Rarely, but sometimes, the brand of plug can be a limitation when it comes to performance. In Honda, I prefer Nipendenso Brand plugs. Not Bosch or NGK. Since the car is ten years old I'd even give the battery connections and the ground wire connections a look for corrossion.

This problem may need to worsen and become more frequent to quickly diagnose. I sure don't like "spraying" parts at a problem that is tolerable in nature. The expense gets out of control and forms opinions as to how sincere my efforts are to fix the complaint.

Consider having the fuel injectors power flushed by a professional rather than rely on fuel addatives to clean them.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

Hello, Can you tell me if you are having problems with the All-Parts Web Site? This question has been open quite awile. Please update or close it.

Thanks,

Roger

1993 Honda Prelude Engine Tuning Happens sometimes No pattern

Hi I have a 1993 Honda Prelude that has 173,000 miles. The problem I'm having is when I start or drive the car, the rpm or engine will idle up and down from 2000-4500 rpms every so often. Is this a transmission problem? Another question I have is my ABS light and the BRAKE light indicatior on my dash board stays lit what does this mean? If you can answer my question it will be greatly appreicatied.

Hello, I don't think your transmission is at fault here unless it is slipping while you drive. If the speed of the car follows the RPM surge the problem is likely a computer controlled device such as the idle speed control.

ABS and BRAKE light on can be as simple as low fluid level in the resivoir. If fluid level is good and the lights are on it means in a braking situation where anti-lock brakes would normaly activate, they ill not. You still have brakes, they just won't perform anti-lock function and you'll need to drive accordingly.

The anti-lock system can be diagnosed by a brake technician to see what part is not as designed to allow anti-lock to happen.

Roger

Where is the idle speed control? And would I need a certified tech to look at this or can I fix this myself?

The idle speed control is on the throttle body. Can you see where the accelerator pedal cable connects to the throttle body? The ISC will be in alignment with the cable but on the other side of the throttle body....(usually).. I don't know which engine you have. It has an electrical connector because it is computer controlled.

I recommend a technician's help if you do not have access to a tachometer, a scanner (for parameter feedback values) and related drivability diagnostic tools.

Roger

What's happening with your car? I want to help if I can.

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, Still need help here?

Thanks,

Roger

1993 Honda Prelude Electrical / Lighting Systems   

HI, I'VE GOT A PRELUDE IMPORT VTEC, AND WAS WONDERING WHERE THE ROAD SPEED SENSOR IS LOCATED,AS I'VE JUST PURCHASED A SPEEDO CONVERTER/ DELIMITER. IT SAYS THAT THERE SHOULD BE THREE WIRES COMING OUT OF THE GEARBOX? ALSO, IWAS WONDERING IF YOU COULD TELL ME WHAT PATTERN HEADLIGHT WIRES GO IN WHEN FITTING AFTER MARKET LIGHTS? EVERY WAY I TRIED IT, THE FULL BEAMS WERE ON ALL THE TIME?

Hi,
The road speed sensor is on the top of the transmission, near the fire wall. It is a 3-wire sensor. It is bolted on with 2 small bolts.

The headlight wiring will need to be matched with the aftermarket lights. Contact the aftermarket people regarding how you should wire THEIR lights.

1993 Honda Prelude Ignition System Malfunction When starting 

the ignition lights dont come on until the key is in the start position . The car starts ok , but will only keep running if you hold the key just over the start position,just before the starter motor engages,your advice will be gratefully appreciated .

Sounds like a bad ignition switch.

1993 Honda Prelude Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens sometimes No pattern

I have a 1993 Honda Prelude. The climate controls work just fine. The problem is that when I try to switch from one button to the other, for example...I want heat on my face and floorboard, that button is pushed in, but the heat is blowing only on the floorboard...then I will press the button for the "floorboard" and go back to the button for "face/floorboard" and it will again just do the floor. I do not hear any of the "gates" open or close like I do on my 1991 Honda Accord. Also, as I was driving down a rough freeway I was pushing my climate buttons and eventually I was able to get the heat coming out of the upper vents when the "face and floorboard" button was in. FYI, someone replaced the radio on this vehicle, would that have caused a wire to come loose?

Yes when the radio was replaced a wire or vaccum line may have been loosened or damaged.
Good Luck,
Paul

1993 Honda Prelude Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Hi.. While driving the other day I noticed my clock blinking and thought nothing of it, that it was probably just a loose connection to the clock. Then a little later I noticed my tachometer and speedometer drop down to 0 really quick and then back to normal at the same times my clock would blink. Later still, I noticed when my windshield wipers were on they would come to about a stop then go at the same time the tachometer, speedometer, clock briefly "died". The dead time was quick (split second) but seemed to be having more and more dead times as time progressed. Now my car won't start cause I think my fuel injector is not getting power from this problem. So far I have cleaned out my battery terminals thinking that there is a loose connection somewhere. Possibly with a ground wire maybe even? Or something else?

Your thinking of cleaning the cables and a bad ground are in the right direction.A through test of your electrical system would be my next direction.An alternator or a dead cell in the battery or both could cause these symptoms.Although the battery is a 12 volt battery,its full charge range is usually around 13.5-14.5 volts.The alternator also should supply the system in these ranges.

Ok, I have some new information to shed more light on this. When my car is off and I turn my key to the 'run' position none of my interior/exterior lights come on. But when I turn the key to the start position all lights come on and the car starts. As soon as it starts I let the key go back to the run position and everything dies including the engine. I'm now thinking that there is probably something wrong with the ignition switch. I was told that for my car there is a front and a back part to the ignition mechanism and that it was the back part that is most likely the problem. Is it correct to assume this? Or am I going down the wrong road now?

Yes it is a two part switch and could be a possible cause

1993 Honda Prelude Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have a 1993 prelude, the car would start sometime, then it quit all together, so I change the main relay and it didn't fix the problem. The car had no fire nor fuel. I let the car sit for about a 2 months before I tried to start it again. It started, so I took it to a local shop, It quit on him the next day, he said it was a engine wiring harness. so I let it sit again. could it be a computer or what....HELP!

This could definately be a problem PCM
The first thing you should do is have the shop put a code scanner on the car to see if there are any stored codes that pinpoint a problem
Both the signals for the coil and the fuel come through the PCM so this can very likely be the problem
As far as the wiring harness
I can only suggest that there is a loose connector somewhere on the harness and a matter of checking them and making sure they are secure.
To say "The wiring harness" would be very vaghe unless there was some sort of short circuit or fuses blowing out
I hope this helps

Thank you for the advice, this will help.

Ok no problem

1993 Honda Prelude Engine   

Ok so I just had my I/H/E put it and the car was running perfect.. the last thing that was bothering me was that the car would not start after being warmed up.. took me 5 minutes to start.. so I researched it, took it into a trustworthy shop and they said it was a bad relay switch which I read is common to have. Now it's out of the shop and now the car seems to idle lower then it had before, and almost starts to sputter a bit when idling. When driving I also now hear the exhaust sputter a bit, and I suppose it could be my imagination or that I've got used to the power but it seems like it hesitates a bit now when I punch it.. and most noticable is when I am coming to a stop in a higher gear..and wait to downshift.. before the exhaust would just get low then I'd downshift.. now when I start to slow the car it does a chug chug and I feel like I have to immediatly put it into a lower gear and don't get to hear my deep exhaust ... so would a new main relay switch have any effect on any of the things I've mentioned or is it just a coincidence that this is happening right after I got the relay fixed. Any help is GREATLY appreciated.

It is possible the vehicle is going through a relearn stategy after (if) power was disconnected from the battery. If this is the case, the condition should go away after a few drive cylcles. You may even want to start over, disconnect the negative battery cable for ten minutes. Reconnect and test drive. Make sure both terminals are clean, tight, etc.

If damage was caused to the wiring or connector at the relay (or any other part fo the car they worked on), intermittent electrical failure could appear. These are the scenarios that 'could' be related to the repairs performed.

Do you get a check engine light while the engine is running?

no check engine light

Ok, disconnected the neg. battery cable for 10 min. yesterday. I took it around the block this morning and tried to really pay attention to every sound. My exhaust is definitly a lot more quieter now, usually when im coasting in 2nd around 3000 rpms it used to make a deep low hum and now I can barely hear it. When I punch it at a stop sign the sound has changed it is now more raspy then it was before, not deep sounding. Performance wise, the only thing really noticable is coming to a stop in 1st gear right before i put the clutch in, it gives a little chug chug which it never did before. From what it sounds like the main relay fixing has nothing to do with this? The car also vibrates more then it did before, especially in first gear going around a parking lot.

Ugh sorry for the multiple posts but I think of this after I sent the other. Is it possible the 'relearn' period would have an effect on the tone of the exhaust and that it will go back to normal after a few driving periods? Also the exhaust still sputters a bit on startup and when driving. :/

1992 Honda Prelude Engine Leaking When idling Always

Hello, I ve checked to see where the oil is droping from, it seams to come from the oil filter base is there a gasket there or does it need to be torqued down? This started after a cold snap. Thanks John

Check to see if filter is tight or if the o-ring is in right and not ruptured. Sounds like a possible hold in filter and you may need to replace it.

hello,

the leak comes from the filter base where it mates with the block it's not the filter itself.

John

There should be 1 or two bolts holding it, either in the inside or outside of the filter houseing. It is possible that its the filter fastener.

If the bolts are not visible outside of the housing,you will need to remove the oil filter and check the threaded part that attaches the filter to the filter housing. This may need to be tightened. If this does not make a seal, you may have to replace the gasket between the housing and the block.

1992 Honda Prelude Fuel System Malfunction Happens always Always

I currently have my 92 prelude fuel and temp indicators off. They wont light for anything. I checked the fuses and they seem to be fine. I am wondering if anything came loose in the system somehow. The car hasn't been to a shop for a while. The problem started about 2 weeks ago. Can you tell me what I can check to find out what might be wrong with my indicators? Thanks

Please clarify. Do the gauges work but have no panel lights? ("They won't light for anything").

Roger

What i mean is that I dont really know if the gauges work because when I start the caar the panel lights only have the bottom row lighting up. I still have my clock and everything lit but My fuel and teemp lights aren't coming on.

Do these gauges work in daylight? Have you tried a flashlight to see if they work? If it is just dash lights it may be only light bulbs burned out.

Roger

Well you see this prelude has the digital guages that only light up when the car is on. I have been running this car for the past 2 weeks without knowing if i have enough gas to go around so I am constantly filling it up. How can i check to make sure it's not just a burned out bulb in these fuel and temp gauges?

Okay, digital gauges.

Once certain all fuses are good it is time to pull the instrument cluster and look at the printed circuit board on the back for a crack in a circuit, a loose terminal, a poor wire harness connection to the cluster, etc.

Individual gauges can be replaced once the cluster is removed from the car.

Do you need instructions to remove the instruments? Please advise if an email or fax would be best for sending you procedural instructions.

Roger

Yes sir indeed If you could e-mail me the instrcuitons on how to remove it that would be great. Thank you

I'll need you email address please.

Roger

yes sir my e-mail address is [redacted] Also my vehicle is a honda prelude 1992 model

2.2L or 2.3L engine please? Is your Prelude a S os a SI submodel?

Roger

TeTo tell you the truth I'm not sure what type engine it is. Can you please send me both.

Let me send you info for the 2.3L SI and have you look at it for a start.

Roger

Thanks i will take a look

Subject will read PRELUDE.

Roger

Ok sir. I'll wait for it

Its on the way.

Roger

Any luck here?

Thanks,

Roger

1992 Honda Prelude All Part Groups   

Is a 1992 Honda Prelude SI 2.2L auto transmission interchangeable with a 1992 2.3L auto transmission and is there a difference between the transmissions and if so what?

According to Hollander Interchange the transmissions are the same for Prelude model years 92, 93, 94, and 95- 2.2L & 2.3L engines.

For whatever reason the manual transmission is listed as different for the two engines.

I ALSO HAVE A CHECK ENGING LIGHT PROBLEM, THERE IS A BLUE PLUG IN THE BACK BEHIND RADIO AND WHEN YOU STICK A WIRE TO THE 2 PRONGS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT BLINKS 4 SHORT TIMES, IN TURN MEANS THE SERVICE CODE IS #4 WHAT DOES THAT MEAN?

CKP or Crankshaft Position sensor. It can be the sensor or the wiring to the sensor (closely inspect the wiring/connector).

Thank you, what a help

Do you need additional information?

1992 Honda Prelude Fuel System   

i start my car and it idles fine i begin to drive and the tac goes crazy then my car simply goes to a real low bog and i changed the air filter and plugs and gas and it helped for about ten minutes then began to die out and wouldnt start once again so i am wondering if its my main efi relay any guesses?

Most of the time that I get an erratic tach signal, followed by a poor or no run issue it is the ignition coil

what about the back firing does that relate to the coil

also it runs for a while fine then it will randomly die and not want to start and it also will occasionally back fire and then it will start but sometimes when trying the tack goes crazy

Backfiring might relate to a coil, or weak plug wires,as would a timing belt that jumped a tooth, as would a distributor internal problem.

would egr valve fit into the picture

A failed EGR valve would give the running problems you have but not the tach problems.
Egr might be stuck open/

1992 Honda Prelude Ignition System   

My Lude has been sitting for a month, i put a brand new battery on it and it started first time, but the other day i stopped to get fuel and when i went to start the car again it turned but wouldn't fire. Its auto so i wiggled it in and out of park thinking it might be a sticky inhibitor switch, and kept turning the ignition. after a minute it started.
Since then its happened on multiple occasions, It seems to occur after short gaps of the engine being switched off, like at a petrol station.
When i try to start it, sometimes the engine will nearly start and then splutter, and sometimes it doesnt fire at all. It take 1-5 minutes to get it to start. I havent got stranded yet but its annoying.

Any ideas, Fuel Blockage? Lack of Spark? Relay?

The main relay is common. It most commonly fails when the interior gets hot. You can listen for the relay clicking when you turn the key on (lower steering column)(without cranking the engine. Get familiar with the sound when the car will start and compare to when the car won't start.

1992 Honda Prelude All Part Groups   

My '92 Prelude Si is not starting! before, i had a bad upper transmission solenoid and replaced it, reset it be leaving the battery off overnight. After all that it started. i also got my front axels replaced and it was starting perfectly fine for a few days. One day, the first time i had gotten up to 70mph it flashed D4 again but i pulled over, turned it off, turned it on and it was fine. A few days later, i parked it, when i came back to turn it on, it didn't start but i clicked it 3 times, pumped the gas pedal, and then after that it turned on.
Today, i tried what i knew to do and it was not flashing D4 or anything, it was turning over just not starting. its full of gas and changed the spark plugs about a month ago. HELP PLEASE!

Hello, when you turn the key on listen carefully for the PGMFI Main Relay to click twice. (Just turn the key to ON, don't try to start the engine.) It is on a bracket under the left side of the dash or on the left kickplate area.

If the relay does not click, or clicks only once replace it or your fuel pump will not run.

Roger

Hello again,

Please update your question status. Do you need help?

If you are ready to close the question please click on OK to finish up.

Thanks,

Roger

To close the question please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

1992 Honda Prelude Electrical / Lighting Systems   

My check engine light is on and I would like to find a diagnostic to check it.

Hello,

Copy and Paste the following link into your Address Bar for instructions on diagnostic trouble code retrieval-

http://www.troublecodes.net/honda/

Let me know which code(s) you find.

1991 Honda Prelude Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

My seatbelt light blinks after starting the car until I shut it off. Also there is another seatbelt light in the upper right hand corner that stays on as well but doesn't blink.

The blinking light is normal, but should stop after 5-6 blinks. Does it also beep when it blinks? I would check the plug in at the seat belt latch, there is a wire plug that is for sensing wether or not your seat belt is plugged in or not. The one in the upper rh corner will only go off when you have both front seat belts plugged in. It also might be one because you are having the malfunction on the blinking one. The only other thing that might cause the blinking is a burnt area in the circuit board behind your speedometer.

-Jason Parker

1991 Honda Prelude Engine Overheating When driving Always

those flag menus where pretty vague...
here's the gist of the problem. my car begins to overheat after about 10-15 min driving and the temp sensor pegs out after about 15-20. if i drive for more than 15 minutes, when i go to shut off the engine, it'll sputter and keep trying to turn over (not impressive to the ladies at all). also, after the 10-15 minute mark, the car will idle @ about 3k-4k. any suggestions?

It is a characteristic of an overheated engine to continue to run on. An engine overheat can be caused by:
1.Lack of coolant-check level

2.Lack of circulation, a stuck thermostat is the number one cause (and can go bad without warning). Inexpensive to replace.

The head gasket could be leaking combustion gases into cooling system preventing circulation. A blown head gasket will produce a white colored smoke from exhaust, this smoke will be present when hot! If the oil has a milky appearance on the dipstick this is another tell tale sign of a blown head gasket.
And the waterpump itself could be worn and not pumping coolant.

If you are in an area where it is very hot, and especially if you are overheating during low speed driving, make sure the cooling fan is working. And that the radiator fins are not plugged with debris.

If there isn't excessive white smoke from the exhaust and no signs of coolant mixing with the engine oil try a new thermostat(in the $5 ballpark). This is urgent because permanent engine damage can occur when engine is overheated.

Did you solve your problem? Any questions?

1991 Honda Prelude Engine Won't Start Happens sometimes 

Hi... i have this problem sometimes.

I go to start the car and turn the key and the S3 light flashs. I try to start the engine, i hear starter and engine trying but it will not start.

If i leave the car alone for 5 or 10 mins, put the key in and try again... the s3 stays off and the car starts with no problem.

Lately it seems its been getting worst... now sometimes i have the same problem even when the s3 light is off.

Any Thoughts ?

Thanks

The main relay under the dash are known to cause intemittent no starts.

do u think this would be expensive to fix ? would the main relay have to be replaced ?

It is aprox $60 for the relay. Some people fix the relay by repairing the solder joints. To confirm this is the problem listen for the fuel pump to run when you first turn the key. Normally it will, if it don't this is a tell tale sign of the common problem with the main relay. The problem is typically most pronounced when the interior of the car is hot.

yes... normally when i turn the key i hear a click sound

when the s3 light is flashing i dont hear any click...

i assume the click sound is the fuel pump

Thanks for your help

1991 Honda Prelude Engine  When driving Always

Replaced exhaust. Unplugged oxygen sensor while doing so and forgot to hook back together. Check engine light came on (obviously)upon start-up. Turned engine off, reconnected cable and now light won't go off. Disconnected battery cable and reconnected, put on 300 miles and light is still on. Is there another way to reset the light?

There is a reason why your light is staying on. On that car, it will come on only while it sees a problem. Check the codes and go from there. (It may be something else)

1991 Honda Prelude Electrical / Lighting Systems   

What I have been noticing is that the battery light keeps coming on in the past few weeks..and it is a new battery. I left the car running at a gas station, after a drove it for about 75yards... The windows was rolling down slowly and the headlights were dimmed... when I tryed to hit the gas it just started to sputter and shut off. I tried jumping it but it failed it would start up then just simmer down can cut off. Eventually I got it to work and drive me home. The battery light keeps fading in and out

Also when I got it to work my stock radio said enter a new code. It also has been cold the past week.When I did get it to start on the second try it sat for about 20mins and I let the other car charge me up for 2 minutes then I started the car.?!?Do I need a new alternator. This is a new battery I dont understand why all my power went dead. At one point even my flashers would go on.

Check to make sure the alternator is properly seated and mounted, bolts are tight connector is properly plugged and belt is properly tensioned. Check all connections for battery, and battery cables.
Have the alternator tested, and replace if necessary. Charge battery fully, A bad alternator can ruin batteries,and cold weather can cause problems with expansion contraction of bolts, belts, and can freeze your battery.

1991 Honda Prelude Fuel System   

Car won't start. Starter cranks. Getting fire to plugs. Gas tank full, but fuel guage doesn't register.

The fuel guage will not keep the car from starting, but a faulty ignition switch could cause both problems, or a disconnected/broken wiring harness to the fuel tank could do that.

I would start a bit more simply. Turn the key on (not start), watch the check engine light. It should turn on for 2-3 seconds, then turn off, making a click at the same instant. The fuel pump should run for the 2-3 seconds the check engine light is on. Someone should be able to hear the pump run at the tank, or at the fuel rail under the hood.

If no check engine light, look for a bad ignition switch. If no click when it turns off, look for bad main relay, or ignition switch. If OK, but no fuel pump action, look for a bad fuel pump, or a broken/disconnected harness.

Could it be the fuel pump relay. Is this relay under dash on driver side. This relay has a yellow-black-red wire. The fuel pump has a wire the same color. When we turn the switch on. this relay clicks after 2-3 seconds, but this wire is never hot (checking at the relay end).

Sounds like the right relay, and sounds like it is failing. Part #39400-SF1-013, Fuel Injection Relay $61 from the dealer.

1991 Honda Prelude Engine   

Oil light comes on when idling after car has warmed up. Goes out above 1200-1500rpm. Oil level is good and the car has no loss of power and is fine on the highway/ while driving.

Hello,

Does the engine make any noise when the oil light comes on? If it does there is a severe lack of oil pressure.

If it does not, the oil sending unit is likely at fault unless oil pressure is actually dropping low enough to trigger the light.

It is recommended to use a mechanical gauge to confirm actual oil pressure during this situation.

Worse case scenario is worn engine bearings. A weak oil pump or plugged pick-up screen is also possible.

When was the last oil and filter change?

I believe the engine is making some noise when the light comes on, I don't let it get too far. The temp. does start to rise if I don't idle the engine faster causing the light to go out. Last oil change was less than 1000 miles ago, this is actually when it started to happen. Just bought and have put less than 2000 miles on it.

Did you have oil changed when you first got the car?

It is worth trying another oil change, make sure to use recommended oil (should be on filler cap, if not in owners manual). Try this and give me an update. Let me know the condition of the oil-- any sludge, debris, etc?

Make sure to change the filter too. Use a good filter like Napa, Wix, Purolator, etc. Fram is widely reported to be of inferior quality (but probably has the best marketing).

1991 Honda Prelude Ignition System   

I have a 91 Honda Prelude, when the "S" light is blinking the check engine light on. The car is hard to start in the morning and after starting it seems like it's driving in a lower gear instead of Drive.. But, when the "S" light is no blinking,the check engine light is off and the car starts ok and runs fine. When Also the overdrive button on the gear shift dosn't work when I press it. Some times after I drive the car with the check-engine light on,when I park, it won't start again it cool off. What could I do to fix this problem?

Start by checking the trouble codes-

http://www.troublecodes.net/honda/

Let me know what you find and we'll continue.

By the way, what is the air temperature where the car is?

1990 Honda Prelude Electrical / Lighting Systems  When driving 

My check engine light comes on after driving for 5 minutes or so. The light does not come on if the car simply idles in place, only if the car is in motion. There is no vacuum to the EGR, and the car will not pass smog (California). A mechanic has checked the selenoids, and vacuum box (whatever that is) and he is suggesting that I may have a bad computer (ECU?) He also mentioned that I may have a bad connection. How do I (where) check the computer connections? 1990 Prelude 4WS had an original 2.1L replaced with a 2.0L 100,000 miles ago.

Let's start with the engine change. How can you put the 2.0 in place of the 2.1 and even have the vehicle tested in California?
Using California emission statutes, that would be an automatic failure. I my state, we use California Bar 97 calibration. An engine
change of this type creates an automatic failure. The vehicle could not even be licensed here. They would require the 2.1 be reinstalled
to even check it for emissions.

Beyond that, does the light never come on when idling? If it idles for a long period, will the check light come on? When did this start? Recently,
or when the engine was changed?

You can drive a vehicle, and set a code. You need to have someone, who has a scanner, check your system, and give you a code
read-out. This will pinpoint your problem. It could be a computer, and EGR valve sensor, throttle position sensor, a oxygen sensor.
As you can see, any one or combination of sensors can set a code, and the check light will come on. Without a scanner, and a mechanic
who can read one, you won't know where to start. Spend the money, and find a good, qualified mechanic, specializing in imports, and
have him scan your vehicle. Anything other than this approach is just a wait of time.

Checking the computer connections, can be costly if you don't have experience. You could short the computer, mess up a circuit that
was working correctly, and so on. This is something you shouldn't even consider.

Good luck.

Bill

I was told at the time that the model came with a 2.0 or a 2.1 in that year. They put the original top-end back on the 2.0 engine. I have error codes "Three short-one long two short" from the LED on the ECU. This says "Manifold absolute pressure, and Exhaust gas recirculation system." Error codes 3 and 12. What would this mean? The engine light only comes on after the car is in motion. The light came on about 80,000 miles after the engine change. No sensors have ever been replaced except the O2 sensor. It is a "Heated" type (replaced on the 2.1 engine, not sure if they put the same one back in.

1990 Honda Prelude Engine Won't Start Happens always When warm 

Changed the starter, distributor cap and rotor, put in new spark plugs. Start ok in the morning but when tried to start after work (park under sun-hot days) it will just cranked but not start right away. After waiting 20 or so minutes(after trying to start it first) it will start.

If the fuel pump don't run when you first turn the key on have the main relay replaced.
The main relay can be re-soldered, but a quality job would have to be done.

1990 Honda Prelude Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction  

My honda's heating system fan has stopped working, the heat still trickles through, but there is no fan. i checked all the fuses and found no problem. is there any way to confirm the relay switch is working? any other possibilities? this all started happening when it started to get really cold outside.

Actually this is pretty easy to check out... the fan is located behind the glove box.. remove the glove box and remove the electrical connection.. turn the fan on and verify that u have power to any of the 3 or 4 pins.. if you do then the problem is the fan is bad.. if no power to any of the pins then your problem is in the power to the fan.. let me know if I can be more help. Al

i checked and no power is going to the fan. the rad fan has not come on for a couple of days now either, but it has been cold out. i checked the fuses once more and found nothing, i also switched some of the relay fuses around as they were the exactly the same and i don't think that is the problem. my wife said she was driving when suddenly every went out. are there other control switches? and where are they hiding?

Now it gets a lot more difficult.. A wiring diagram is most likely required.. sounds like a power supply wire either came loose or broke.. not a fun job .. The next step is to verify if there is power to the fan control switch and trace back from there to find out where the missing voltage is.. like i said..not an easy job.. and time consuming.. a short cut would be to run a hot wire to the control switch with an inline fuse and go from there.. your option.. good luck.. let me know if I can be any additional help. Al

How did the wiring repairs on you car go? Hopefully the advice giving was helpful and please use the service again in the future.

1990 Honda Prelude Fuel System Stalling When starting Always

I have a 1990 Honda Prelude, 2.0S, 4 cyl carb. 5spd manual trans. Problem- Car will crank strongly, start for an instant, then die. After several attempts to crank, smoke (fuel vapor?) emanates from around exhaust manifold (front), breather intake at carburator area. Odor of fuel is very strong, like you would expect when carb is flooded. Waiting several hours between starts accomplished nothing.
Any suggestions would be truly appreciated.
Bob D.

Check & to see if the catalytic oonverter is plug. If it is it will not run.

to see if it is plug You can take exhaust lose or see if you any exaust comeing out the tail pipe.

I checked out your recommendation and believe that a clogged converter is not the problem as exhuast gas under pressure is present. Also, If it was a clogged catalytic converter, I would have expected this problem to grow worse over time. In this case it happened suddenly, no warning at all. The car ran great up to that point.
More info- the morning of the problem my daughter was on her way to school. She was driving on the interstate when the car died on her. She pulled over to the safety lane and successfully restarted it on the second try and continued on to school. After completing her classes she was preparing to leave and experienced the problem I initially described. As a backyard mechanic I expect the problem to be fuel delivery related. Possibly fuel pump or a switch/sensor of some type. Any suggestions on how best to check this. I understand this vehicle could have either an internal or external (to gas tank) fuel pump. What would be the best way to make this determination? Can you provide a list of possible causes in descending order from most likely cause to least likely cause.
Thanks,
Bob D.

Fuel pump,pluged filter or water in fuel would not let fuel to carb.or throtel body injection.
should be in tank pump.take fuel line off at carb. or t.b. & turn key on should pump out fuel.
might check timing.

1990 Honda Prelude Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

In a legal case that I'm involved in where my daughter was almost killed by a drinking suspended license teenage driver going 90 mph, the kid claims that he removed a club device installed by his dad between the steering wheel and the brake pedal by peeling the cover off the steering wheel and then removing the nut that holds the wheel on with a socket wrench. After pulling the wheel off the shaft, he claims to have removed the device and then reinstalled the wheel, and then put the cover back on. This all sounds like hooey to me and was wondering whether that is possible for someone of limited tools/car repair experience (He's 17!) Why it is important to know is that his dad bought him the car and is on the hook for punitive damages if he allowed the kid to drive it, but there will be no punitve damages if he tried to prevent his idiot kid from driving by the use of the club devise. Of course, they claim to have thrown the club thingy away after the crash! This simple issue will be important to determine the amount that I receive to allow for medical care for my daughter for a long long time. What do you think? Thanks a million!

What Year/Make/Model was the car in question?And what exact model of theft lock was removed?

the car was a sports coupe called a 1990 honda prelude - the security device was described as a club like device which went from the brake pedal to the steering wheel - presumedly with u shaped ends which could be lifted off when the steering wheel was detached and the space between pdedal and wheel was increased - hope this is helpful. the main question I have, is it possible for a 17 yr old with a normal socket set to get the steering wheel off and not tear it up or otherwise. My impression having done this kind of thing is that it is difficult at best and requires special tools or knowledge.

If it was the lock at the first link the steering wheel does not need to be removed.If it was the lock at the second link it does.The answer is YES,The wheel is easily remove on a Prelude.It doesn't even require a puller.Just a ratchet with socket to remove the retaining nut,then wiggle the wheel back and forth to get it off.If the car is air bag equipped,then the air bag system would have to be disabled which would set a code in the air bag module and the air bag warning light to illuminate.So if the system was disabled,it's easy enough to find out.Just call for the codes to pulled from the air bag module or see if the system light is illuminated.If not,the steering wheel was not removed.


http://www.autosportcatalog.com/index.cfm?fa=p&pid=1079

http://www.wolo-mfg.com/wb.htm

Does this answer the question?

1990 Honda Prelude Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

My battery light on my 1990 honda prelude S stays on all the time. The honda dealer told me to change the integrated control module which did not make a difference. Then they told me to replace the altenator because there was a switch that was not shutting off the light. Both of these things have not corrected the problem. The altenator is charging because the car is running fine except the battery light stays on. Thank you .Wil.

Check fuse #12 10A for 12V on both sides of the fuse.Then check the Blk/Yel lead from the fuse to the lamp for 12V at the lamp.If no 12V the lead is open between fuse and lamp.If OK,then the Wht/Blu lead is open between the Alt. and the lamp or poorly connected at the alternator.

1990 Honda Prelude Engine Tuning When idling 

WHAT IS THE TIMING SETTING FOR A 1990 HONDA PRELUDE 2.0L 4WHEEL STEERING

Hello, The timing is 6 degrees BTDC.

Roger

IS IT THE SAME FOR A 2.05 L I MADE A MISTAKE

I show only a 2.0L and a 2.1L engines in the 1990 Prelude. Both are set to 6 BTDC.

Roger

Hi, What is happening here please?

Roger

1990 Honda Prelude Engine Malfunction When idling When warm 

After my Honda warms up in stop and go driving, the idle gets higher and higher. It is not a problem on the highway, but in the city, at every red light, the idle is at about 3000 rpm and comes down very slowly. No such problem when engine is cold, idle is under 1000 at that point.

Check the TPS sensor and for any type of vacumm leaks on the lines leading to the intake but also the intake manifold itself.
Good Luck,
Paul

thanks
Are there any places on the web where I could see diagrams and pictures of what parts I actually have to check and change. I can look for the vacuum hose, but I don't know what a TPS is

Ed

A TPS is the throttle posision sensor and is located on the rear of the throttle body towards the firewall.If your paticular vehicle is normally assperated(carburated)we may have a different issue.Honda has 4 different engines that were produced on this model.One is injected the other carburated.As far as websites,autozone.com has some info but I'm not sure about diagrams.Most of the other sights I know of require a sign up fee.For the cost they charge,you may be better off going down to one of your local parts houses and get a Chilton or Haynes repair manual.These have lots of pictures and diagrams as well as a pretty good explanation on "how to" for the novice.Let me know of your outcome and we'll continue to work through it if need be.
Good Luck,
Paul

1990 Honda Prelude Ignition System  When starting Always

When you turn the ignition switch to the position where all the indicator lights are supposed to come on nothing happens. The car will start but as soon as you let go of the key it dies.

Hello, Honda had ignition switch problems. I'm thinking replacing yours will fix it.

Roger

1990 Honda Prelude Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always No pattern

air conditioning evaporator expansion valve

I had a ac guy come to my house. Said the compressor works and there is pressure. the low line continues to have a vacume but won't get any return gas sent to it. He said the exp valve was bad in the evaporator under the dash. I can't find it to see if it has an electrical problem stopping it from opening. Where can I find the valve and how many volts actuates it?

The expansion valve meters the refrigerant to the evaporator core. It is not electric. It works by pressure alone.

The valve is attached to the evaporator core lines. You must recover the freon, remove the evaporator and it's case module from under the dash. Seperate the case halves and remove the evaporator.

Remove the valve and temperature sensing bulb from the evaporator. Install the new valve assembly to the evaporator core.

Assemble the core to it's case and the case to the car. Evacuate and recharge the system. Test for leaks. Performance test the system.

Any help?,

Roger

How are you doing here, please? I could use an update.

Any news?

Roger

I went to a different ac mechanic. He said it may have gotten a little low on freon so it would not trigger the valve to open. He told me that I could not get to it easily, but it looks like it is just behind the glove box. Said some guys just buy the Kragen retro kit to do it themselves and that that was risky and might screw up the system. Is that true?

If the system is low on freon of course it won't work properly.

Did you read through the message I sent about getting to the valve? The issue of recovering freon is the one thing you'll need help with as the machine involved is too expensive to own.

Converting to R-134a refrigerant is easy and I know you can do it. Wal-Mart sells a conversion kit for around $40 that works fine.

There is little "risk" with a retro kit. It's the handling of the freon recovery and pulling a vacuum that requires special equipment. Practically no labor is involved.

Mechanics that want to SELL you something may mention risks, inexperienced part time helpers will speak of risk, the trick is to not allow the freon to escape into the atmosphere. That's an environmental issue you should consider responsibly.

The hot water control valve and temperature door movement should also be checked to be sure the heater is not affecting the air temperature delivered through the A/C vents.

Roger

Thanks, I'll start by removing the covers to check the doors to the heater core and a/c condenser. If they work then can I remove the a/c cover to get to the valve or should I remove the freon first?

You must remove the freon first. The evaporator core while still installed does not permit access to remove the expansion valve. Plus, the valve is under system pressure. The valve may not be the problem.

I recommend a fresh start knowing the system has the full charge of freon, the hot water valve turns off and the temp door works properly. Then performance test the system to see where to go next.

Roger

Could I please get an update here?

Thanks,

Roger

1990 Honda Prelude Engine   

I have a 2.0 Si. Often it won't start. Often when I try to start my car, the battery will crank but the car won't start. This happens most often during hotter days, even if my car has been sitting all day. When it doesn't start the engine light will come on. My car never starts if the engine light stays on before I fully crank the key. After failing to start initially, often if I wait 5 to 10 minutes, it will start. Once running, the car is fine.

Sounds like the main relay under the dash is failing. Replace it and you should be good to go! It is $62 from the dealer.

1990 Honda Prelude Electrical / Lighting Systems   

at cold start check engine light comes on and S3 light blinks engine barely putts but then usaually picks up after a few minutes then drives fine after warms up can turn off and on no prob.,no light or anything just problem from cold start.

Copy and Paste the following link into your address bar--

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/0c/fb/0c/[redacted] d800cfb0c/repairInfoPages.htm

The link contains instructions on checking trouble codes. Let me know which trouble codes you find.

Also, try holding the accelerator to the floor and starting the engine (cold, when problem would be present). Does it start more quickly?

Make sure the plugs and wires are not overdue for replacement.

Yes it does help get going quickier if I hold the excellarator to the floor at start but I still get the check engine light and the S3 blinks at start the plugs are new, I checked the wires look good.

I still have yet to check the codes I will and get back to as soon as I can I will reply..

1990 Honda Prelude Drive Train / Driveline   

The speedo meter is not working at all time. Sometime come on suddenly and stop again. My prelude is having an automatic transmission

First remove the speedo cable at the back of the speedometer at the instrument cluster. While holding the outer part in your left hand, try turning the cable inner shaft with your right hand.If it does not turn, that is good. If it turns freely, follow it to transaxle beside engine (transmission) remove the housing where it is attached and inspect plastic gear. If teeth re damaged, replace gear. If the gear is good and the cable is good, (previous test) then we can assume the speedometer itself is the problem. The speedo unit probably not avail from Honda dealer. Try autowrecker or ebay?

1990 Honda Prelude Engine   

rough idlling and stall

Hello, What engine please? Look for loose, split, or collapsed vacuum hoses. How long since fuel filter was replaced?

Any problems running above idle?

Roger

The engine is run by two caburators and I have replaced the fuel filter. I have tried to chack all the vacume hose but but can't find any leak. May be I have miss as there are lots of them. When I accelerate the engine for few times, it become smooth but will start rough after a few minutes. The engine run smooth above two thousand RPM. I have no problem when driving it on clear road. The funny thing is I cannot have the aircon on with enggage gear. I have to off the aircon before I put the gear to R or D position. Once I am above the two thousand RPM I can have the aircon running.

Have you synchronized the carbureators?

Roger

No, I don't think I know how to do this.

Jun

What is your email address please? I'll send you instructions.

Roger

Hi Roger,

My email address is [redacted]

Many thanks.
Jun

I'll send the instructions. If you do not see it soon in your email inbox please check spam/junk mail too.

Email subject: PRELUDE
Roger

1989 Honda Prelude Drive Train / Driveline Hesitating When accelerating No pattern

A couple of questions: 1) When accelerating, the clutch acts like it is not disengaging all the way, so acceleration can be slow at times, is there an adjustment I can do first before changing the clutch. 2) I was reading in my Chilton's and it did not specify if I have to take the engine out in order to change the clutch. 3) Car shakes at acceleration, transaxle or tie-rod? Thanks alot.

Hello, When you release the clutch pedal you are engaging the clutch. If the engine RPM's flair when you are accelerating with the clutch fully engaged, then the clutch is slipping. Only minor adjustment (if any) would be possible since the clutch is hydraulically actuated by a slave cylinder right at the clutch fork.

It is the transmission that comes out to get to the clutch for replacement. Not the engine. The clutch and pressure plate are bolted to the engine's flywheel.

Tie rods connect the steering gear to the front spindles and when worn-out can cause the steering wheel to shake or to road wander when the car hits a bump.

Vibration on acceleration can be the clutch slipping (grabbing), a motor mount, or miss fire or things of that nature.

Roger

The car at times accelerates slow, like the clutch is releasing the full power, and at times it will accelerate with no hesitation. So the shaking at acceleration may or may not be the transaxle, drive shaft.

When acceleration seems impaired but the engine has good power, the clutch may be slipping. It would act like you "give it the gas" (and the engine revs up) but acceleration is reacting too slowly.

Can you smell the clutch getting hot from slipping? How old is this clutch? Does your driving require lots of stops and shifting of gears or more hiway and less shifting? Do you drive alot of hills?

Roger

1989 Honda Prelude Engine Stalling Happens always Always

ok i have a 1989 honda prelude i just got it tuned up had new plugs,wires,and 2 fuel filters but yet when i let my car run or drive it it seems to die it gives a noise like its stalling or running out of gas could u please recommend something oh to add on i just had my car diag. and the report showed everything clean and normal but after that my fans stop comming on and the cars temp. shoots way up k thanks chris

Hi;
First I would do a fuel presure test. Also check your fuel pressure regulator. As far as everything showed up normal, I dont believe that. It should of showed up a rich condition. If all of the pressures show up normal and the pressure regulator is good, then I would be checking the integrety of the ECM. Good Luck Les.

1989 Honda Prelude Engine Tuning When idling When cold

Timing belt recently went out, changed the belt, the valves and compresion are ok. Timing way off, used a timing light; however, it will not idle even when it is in time, it is chugging and there is exhaust back pressure coming out of this hose that goes the air filter intake box. Question two, I want to install after market cold air' however, there is some sort of hose coming from the bottom of the car, can I bypass it in order to hook up the intake?....thanks

It appears that you have the timing belt still out of alignment. Pull the covers and verify the alignment. It is not uncommon to have the belt misalign while the adjuster is being tightened. Verify this and we can go from there.. Al

Did you have any luck with the timing belt? Let me know. Al

I have two bent exhaust valves. i have a new head coming with about 110,000 miles on it. the original owner has said some rust is on the cam gears and lobes, how do I clean the rust off and is there anything I should be aware of when changing heads, gaskets and what not, thanks, Darrin.

If it is just surface rust then some PB Blaster or WD 40 and the rust will disolve. if more than surface I recommend changing the cam and installing the one off your car. Make sure the bolt hole for the head are clean and dry. Let me know if I can be more help. AL

1989 Honda Prelude Engine Vibration Happens always When warm 

This is a prelude s model with carbs. Car has been tuned and sitting in neutral the car idles smooth as glass and is smooth until about 1400 rpm then a slight but very noticable vibration is felt thruout the car -- the doors and dash rattle slightly. The car vibrates like this when runing at driving speeds. Car has 140,000 miles and uses about 1 qt oil every 800 miles and gets around 35 mpg. Is this normal vibration, motor mounts, bearings. What do you think? Many thanks for the help.

Hello, I can't imagine an owner would have to believe a vibration that rattles the doors and dash is normal.

Are you saying the vibration is constant when engine rpm is 1400 or more whether or not the car is moving?

Have you had the engine analyzed on a scope for a possible misfire? Are the spark plug wires new?
Any chance a spark plug was dropped before installed or cracked during instalation? Have you run the engine at night (hood up) to see if spark is jumping/arcing from a plug wire boot?

Do you have a standard transmission? Does the vibration stop or improve with the clutch down?

Bearings cause noise and rarely would be a vibration source. They would more likely make a louder noise under load.

What engine do you have?

Roger

To answer your questions:

The vibration occurs whether the car is moving or not. Depressing or releasing the clutch does not change it. Again I would emphasize that the vibration is slight but does cause some "buzzing" in the plastic trim in the doors.

Plug wires are new as are the plugs. Engine has not been analyzed. I have looked at the engine at night and there is no arcing.

The car is a standard transmission and a 2.0 liter engine with a carb.

thank you.

If the car were here I would try any or all of:

1. Inspecting the motor and transmission mounts for condition.

2. Removing all of the belts and run the engine to see if the vibration stopped. I'd look at brackets that attach belt driven components for loose/missing bolts or cracked brackets. Reinstall the belts one at a time and retest.

3. Analyze the engine to include a cylinder balance test and a compression test.

4. Inspect the exhaust system for worn mounts and alignment.

5. Use a mechanic's stethoscope to try to pin point the vibration source.

Roger

1989 Honda Prelude All Part Groups Stalling When braking No pattern

hi, i changed my preludes interior fuse box ( shouldn't have touched it) a few nights ago, and the next day the rpm needle would dip down close to zero whenever i started to brake, until finally the car stalled. it did this about 6 times on my way to work. when stopped , i had to put the car in park to keep it from dying, even then i had to keep my foot on the gas. yesterday, i noticed, while in park, the rpm was racing to over 200 rpms. i put the old fuse box back in, but have the same problems. did i screw something up under the dash? or is it just a coincidence and there is a different problem? my mechanic put in a new alternator and the battery is brand new. thank u for any help-vinny

there are two possibilities here
first next make sure that you plugged the right plugs onto the correct conections
then you need to recheck your wires in the connectors to make sure they have contact with the prongs they are plugged up against

thank u very much for the help, i'm gonna try that tomorrow morning

ok

1989 Honda Prelude All Part Groups Won't Start Happens sometimes When warm 

If I drive a bit of distance and get the motor nice and hot, I turn it off for a few minutes, then it will not start until it cools down again usually about 10 minutes with the hood up. does not happen all the time but is getting worse. what could be wrong???

It is more than likely your starter going out I would have the batt tested also because one could be wearing the other down
usually when the starter gets hot it will not want to operate correctly
I hope this helps

I don't see that being the problem, I didn't mention previously that it does turn over fine, but it just doesn't start. I was told by somebody that said they used to work at honda that it may be the fuel pump?

Finding the reason why a car occasionally dies or won't start is a matter of trial and error. When the car won't start, check for spark and check for fuel,first of all.
If there is no spark,From what you described, your problem could be the coil module, the cam angle sensor or the crank angle sensor.
there are several things that can fail that will not store an error code in the computer like a fuel pump. A faulty wire connection can also be the culprit just to name a few.
I hope this helps you more

1989 Honda Prelude Fuel System Won't Start Happens always When cold

My Honda has a new Carburator kit in both, it runs good when warm, but takes forever to crank cold, will almost kill the battery. What could cause this? At my witts end here, afriend of mine put the kits in because only 2 cylinders would fire, but he can't find anything causing the starting problem.

He needs to determine if it is a fuel or ignition problem. Verify there is spark to the spark plugs when cold. If you have spark have him spray a small amount of carb cleaner down the carb and try starting. If the engine starts now there is a problem with cold enrichment (IE- choking system). If the engine still does not start try holding the accelerator to the floor, if the engine starts noticably sooner the carburetor is flooding.

Have spark at the plugs, noticed if I pump the gas peddle 10 times or so before cranking the car fires up perfect, also seems to run better with the gas tank on fuel. Could the pressure on the gas line be leaking down? Once cranked it keeps cranking great till it sits awhile.

It is possible you are losing fuel pressure. Use a fuel pressure gauge to monitor pressure, your mechanic friend should have a gauge.

1989 Honda Prelude Fuel System   

idle surges after getting warm at stops and while driving sometimes, comes and goes, but only after getting warm.

The first thing to check is for vacuum leaks. You will only be able to find them when the problem is present.

Do get a check engine light at any time while the engine is running?

sometimes

Okay, you may have a sensor problem. A sensor may also be recognizing extra air from a vacuum leak and also triggered the light to come on. Check for vacuum leaks first then we'll move on if necessary.

I will check for vaccuum leaks.

Check the coolant level and the coolant sensor. The coolant sensor slightly richens the air/fuel mixture when engine is cold and could be doing so when the engine is warm.If the coolant level is low, an erratic reading might be present when the coolant sensor is exposed to air then coolant.
And do carefully check for vacuum leaks as Douglas suggested.
Also if this is a short term ()recent ) thing you might have contamination (water) in the gas

you hit it on the nose!!!!the coolant level was just a wee bit low, added coolant and the car has been fine!!!! no reoccurence at all. you guys are amazing!!!! i've already told a few people about your website and will keep telling anyone who's experiencing any car problems at all. thanks so much!!!!

You are welcome.

1989 Honda Prelude Drive Train / Driveline   

We just put in a used automatic transmission. The car will not shift into higher gears when driving it. The check engine light is on and S3 flashes. It will go into drive and reverse. It just doesn't shift while you are driving it.

Triple check the wiring to start with. You may have left something unplugged or pinched wiring. Check the connectors to make sure there is no pin damage, etc.

What was the original problem?

the transmission went out while on the road. It would not let you move the car. The engine reved up but the car would not move. We decided to replace the transmission. We ordered a used transmission online. It is supose to have only 45,000 miles on it. As I said earlier, the car runs. You can go in drive and reverse. When you get out on the highway it will not shift. It seems to stay in first gear. The check engine light is on and S3 keeps flashing. I am not sure what S3 means.

That is an indication of an electrical fault with the tranmsission or its controls (trans module). Most likely caused by a wiring problem.

Did you disconnect the battery during replacement?

Yes,the battery was disconected.

1989 Honda Prelude Fuel System   

has power to all functions of car ,except the fuel pump. replaced the cut off fuel relay already.where can i look now ?

Hi, Is your engine fuel injected or carbureted?

Roger

Fuel cut-off relay.......carbureted....I get it.

Is Dash Fuse Box Fuse #12 good?

With the key ON is there a low voltage present at the fuel cut-off relay Blue Wire? Is there battry voltage present at the ignition coil Blk/Yel Wires?

Roger

You can hear clicking in the distributor area.Open line on the connector of the fuel pump. Also no power to the fuel gauge.

Do you disconnect the fuel relay to check voltage ?
Can I use an ohm's meter ?.

Yes, to check for battery voltage at the relay socket please remove the fuel cut-off relay.

NEVER use an ohm meter to test for power. An internal fuse will pop or the meter will be damaged.

Is fuse #12 good? With the key ON is there a low voltage present at the fuel cut-off relay Blue Wire? Is there battry voltage present at the ignition coil Blk/Yel Wires?


Roger

Yes the engine is carberated .What tool do I use to test the voltage ?.

Use a 12 volt test light to test for battery voltage and a dc volt meter to test for voltages expected to be lower than 12 volts.

Roger

Ok ,let me try it. Get back to you.

removed the relay and tested the blue wire . showed 6 volts .got shocked by the distributor by accident.do you think that I might of left a harness unplugged by or under the carburetor ?.Running out of options and patients....

Is there battry voltage present at the ignition coil Blk/Yel Wires?

Anything you can think of that could have disconnected would be important to check.

Roger

yes ,there is voltage 12 volts.Checked under the car around all the wire harnesses . all units secured .

All right. Let me email a diagnostic procedure used to determine if the Fuel Cut-Off relay should be replaced.

What is your email address please?

Roger

send it to [redacted] .my work e-mail address

Thank you, I'll get it done.

Roger

Did the diagnostic to the cut off fuel pump relay.All checked out with voltage , except the fuel pump wire.No power to it. Do I have a quick disconnect somewhere between the gas tank and the relay ?.

Not that I know of. Does the fuel pump relay energize when you first turn on the key?

Roger

No it does not energize.

Key off. Remove the fuel cut-off relay. OHM the black wire in the fuel cut-off relay socket to ground. Must read 5 ohms or hopefully less. Does it?

With the key on, jumper the fuel cut-off relay Blk/Yel wire to the Yel/Blk wire. Does the fuel pump run? Will the engine start?

Roger

I'll try it .Let you know what it does.

All Parts Site problems that prevented my seeing your replies to me have been corrected. How are you doing with this car?

Roger

1988 Honda Prelude Fuel System Chugging When driving Always

My 88 prelude Si chugs a little on acceleration in the lower gears when cold... but, recently, upon accelerating to over 100k it's lost power completely; sputtering, and eventually stalling ... however, after immediately restarting, the engine seems to be getting the fuel fine... but acceleration over 100-110k at about 3000-3500 rpm continues to cause this loss of power...

Hi,
Your symptoms sound like a loss of fuel. I see you say you are getting fuel fine. Have you tested this? It is very difficult to be sure about fuel without a pressure guage. "T" in a fuel pressure guage and accelerate it to 100k, watching for a loss in pressure. If the car sputters, but the fuel pressure stay high, then you are right. If you have low pressure, replace the fuel filter first, if still low, replace the fuel pump.
Dale

1988 Honda Prelude All Part Groups Won't Start Happens always No pattern

I took my 1988 prelude into a shop because it won't stay started and I can't drive it anywhere. The man told me my distributor cap was leaking oil into my hoses and wanted 200.00 for that and a 100.00 for a fuel filter and a 100.00 for a battery. I know this is overpriced but what does a distributor cap have to with leaking oil. I can see a fuel filter getting stopped up. Also do batteries cost a hundred for this car. It was only 65.00 for our big truck.
He also told me I need to replace my hose for a 100.00 and seat belt for a 100.00 because it doesn't catch. Can someone explain all this crap to me.

Thanks Reta

Hello, Do you have a Wal-Mart Super Center near you? They have a battery and fuel filter for your car.

A distributor cap does not leak oil. There is a seal on the distributor shaft case that prevents oil from leaking down the outside of the motor. There is a seal on the distributor shaft itself that keeps oil (from the crankcase) from getting up inside the distributor cap area.

I can't imagine what is meant by telling you your distributor cap is leaking oil into your hoses. Into vacuum hoses??? What hose?

Get a bright flashlight and look down inside your seatbelt buckle for a foreign object such as a coin or paperclip that would prevent the buckle from locking. Give it a good shake and see if something flies out and clears the mechanism. You may want to rap on the side of the buckle with the handle of a screwdriver to help dislodge a foreign object.

Batteries and fuel filters are available at national auto parts chain stores, too. Shop around for a good price. You'll save money. When you have a new fuel filter installed, let me know what the car does.

Tell me what you think, I'll try to help.

Roger

1988 Honda Prelude Ignition System Won't Start Happens sometimes No pattern

I have a 1988 Honda Prelude and sometimes when I go to start it the check engine light comes on and it will stay on . The car won`t start then. But it seems randomly when I turn the ignition all the lights light up ( including the Check Engine Light) but then it turns off and the car starts just fine.I have no idea what it is or why it`s doing this.

This is an unfortunate sign of a computer that is in the final stages of failure. When you shut off the key most of the voltages to the ECM are removed and the capacitors are allowed to discharge. Then you turn on the key and recharge the caps. Sometimes they take the charge, sometimes they dont. On way to help verify this is to remove the ECM and smell the unit. Thats right smell it. If it has a sour fishy smell your are looking at your problem. You can go to most parts places to get an ECM cost will be abou 500.00. Ebay is another option, cost will be lower and your chance of success questionable. I have had good success with Andre at www.foreignecurepair.com. He is in Tampa, Fl and can overnite an ECM. He will give you a credit on your old unit if the "chip" is not damaged. Hope this helps. Al

1988 Honda Prelude Engine Won't Start When starting Always

The auto Parts store says I Have a charging problem, as the battery goes dead after a day or so.The measured voltage on the battery goes from@ 12 volts to 14.1o volts when the car is running. I recently replaced the alternator with a used one. Doesnt the increase in voltage to the battery indicate the alternator is good.

No. You have internal to the Alternator a component called a voltage regulator. The voltage regulator has components called diodes that in time and with usage fail. The alternator supplies 12-14 volts but only 1/3 of that power goes to the battery (1/3 of 12 is 8) and your battery goes flat. This is a good call from the shop. If you call an electric motor repair shop they may be able to replace the bad diode cheaper than the cost of a replacement alternator. Good luck. Al

1988 Honda Prelude Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

I have a 1988 prelude si 4ws. The alternator light started flickering then it overcharged the battery and burned out the headlights. I replaced the alternator (twice) and had the newest bench tested. The electrical pulsates after starting and it looks like I'm flashing the lights on and off. I've replaced the grounds and checked the relays in the engine compartment. What else can I do?

Have you had the exact symptoms with each alternator, including the one that was on the car to begin with?

Has any work been done to the car recently or any fender benders, etc?

No the first one (NAPA, not original) over charged the battery. The second one failed after 2 weeks and this one will pass all the bench tests, so NAPA says it is good.

Does the second one also overcharge the battery or simply doesn't charge at all?

The second one charges the battery, but all of the electrical in the car pulsates as if it were on a dimmer that some one is moving up and down. This happens 10 seconds after you start the car. I had the battery tested and even put another battery in it. Still does it.

Double check battery connections, engine grounds, and alternator connections/wiring for shorts. Make sure the belt is spinning the alternator at full speed. It sure sounds like a bad alternator, their are plenty of poor quality rebuilds available.

Just for your information. The voltage for the alternator varies from 14 to 16 volts. I haven't gone back to NAPA, but that is where I'm going next. I think that the alternator is bad, also.

Consider another auto parts store that offers free testing (most chain stores), they may 'discover' something NAPA hasn't.

1988 Honda Prelude Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have an 88 Honda Prelude SI, 4WS, and I have tried to bring the car home from the auto shop, and while driving the car the battery light came on bright, then when the light went out all guages stopped working except spedometer, the dash lights and parking lights went out. The alternator, battery, belts are new. The car goes dead after a few feet and stalls. The parking lights sometimes flicker on.

Hello, Can you hold the ignition key after the engine starts about halfway between START and ON and keep the engine running and dash lights working, etc?

I've been getting these Honda products lately and replacing the electrical ignition switch (not the lock cylinder) has been the fix.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

the car wont start at all last time we tried, unless we jump start it, then it dies about 2 blocks later. right now it is stranded in another town. My 16 yr old son had put a stereo in this car last year and I have a feeling its something in the wiring, because there was a burning smell in the car. Do you know where the wiring would be for the dash and tail/parking lights? Would a short like that cause the car to not run at all. sometimes tachometer and temp guage doesn't work either, then they just start working on thier own. Your thoughts?
Thanks
Paul

A burning smell can only mean trouble I can't fix without seeing. Once an electrical fire melts circuits together the rules go out the window.

I recommend a local professional or releasing the question so that others may try to give you input they may have.

Best wishes,

Roger

I'm curious what repairs the local auto shop do on the car? Do they offer any guarantee for their work, most do??

1988 Honda Prelude Ignition System   

Car runs well when cold after driving for up to 20 to 30 minutes car looses power. Does not stall out completely. Will rev slightly over idle, sounds like car is laboring to run, will not accelerate.

you will first of all need to change out your fuel filters and try a fuel clensing agent to purify the fuel system and see what the new results are.
Then if that does not take care of the problem, you will likely have to test the fuel circulation to the intake.
It sounds like fuel is being cut out and restricted hopefully it is just some contaminants that can be cleared by a simple tank and line cleaner.
I hope this helps

The fuel pressure should be checked with a gauge to determine if fuel pressure is adequate when problem occurs. If the fuel filter is overdue to be changed, now would be a good time.

You may also have an exhaust restriction (plugged catalytic converter). How long does the car have sit with the engine off before it runs fine again?

It has to sit for 45 minutes to an hour.

Do you have access to a fuel pressure gauge?

You can check to see if the catalytic converter is getting hot by looking at the converter in a dark/shady area when the problem is present, IF you can do so safely. The converter will start to glow from excessive heat. There are other methods you can try, let me know if you need them. I'll assume you don't have access to a temp gun.

have you a way to check the fuel pressure?

Temperature guns reads 416 degrees fahrenheit after 25 minutes of driving time. Was starting to shows signs of low RPM and hesitation. I do not have access to a fuel pressure gauge but would like to know what the pressure should be. What would be the best fuel pressure gauge port?

ok just let me get a more precise measurement for the temperature
I will be right back with you

Do you have the prelude or the Prelude si?
the prelude is 2.5 PSI
Prelude si is 35 PSI

Would you please tell me what the normal temperature of the catalytic converter should be and give a reccomendation for the fuel pressure range.

I have the Prelude SI. Is the temperature of 416 on the catalytic converter high or normal?

The average temperature for the catalytic converter begins at ranges from 400 to 600 degrees F That is when the car is starting to get to warm.
The normal operating temperature can range up to 1,200 to 1,600 degrees F.
Anything above that is damage causing to the Cat
I hope this helps

Would I be wrong to assume that the fuel pump needs replacing? If so, what is your best guess?

What is the fuel pressure at this point and what is the temperature of the cat get after car runs for a while

The fuel pressure is unknown. Installed used fuel pump that was tested, idles good for 3 -4 minutes then starts hesitating. Possibly it needs setting?

I need to know if you have the Prelude or the Prelude si? the which engine are we working with?
This has all the bearing on where to go next.
and what is the temperature of the cat convertor right after stall

1988 Honda Prelude Ignition System   

Would you please tell me what the normal temperature of the catalytic converter should be and give a reccomendation for the fuel pressure range.

Your pressure should be at 2.5 for the Prelude or 35 PSI if you have the SI model Prelude The average temperature for the catalytic converter begins at ranges from 400 to 600 degrees F That is when the car is starting to get to warm.
The normal operating temperature can range up to 1,200 to 1,600 degrees F.
Anything above that is damage causing to the Cat
I hope this helps"

1988 Honda Prelude Engine   

I just replaced timing belt, replaced damaged valves etc. Now I'm all done and the car turns over but there is no spark. I did blow the main fuse because the battery was bad, replaced it. I checked the coil but I'm not sure if I tested it right. The problem is that there's no spark.

very common for distributors to go bad on older honda engines

is there a way to test it?

not that i am aware of.. in my experience id say better than 9 times out of 10, a no-spark issue with a honda was cured by a new (or rebuilt) distributor. take a look and see if the distributor looks as if its ever been replaced or if it appears to be original

Hereplaced the distributor - that's not it. I did tell you this is the fuel injection engine, the timing belt broke and this is at the end of replacing valves, gaskets, etc. Also I'm actually writing you for my husband who tells me what to ask so if I say something that doesn't sound right just tell me and I'll clear it up.

I agree with the previous tech regarding distributor issues, the problem might not have been solved by replacing with a used one. A new/remanufactured one is usually the only solution.The distributer is such a weak thing, that they even quit if spark plugs not replaced regularly!

Thanks - my husband wanted me to ask you about the coil and the main fuse. When he first hooked up the battery after finishing all the work, the battery was bad and it blue the main fuse - the 70 amp?, it did not blow the next one in line - the 40 (I'm not sure of the numbers but it was the big one that blew). He was wondering if you know what damage may have occured down the line (based on the diagram). He tested the coil with his ampmeter and thinks it's ok but feels that the problem may be there. He did replace the distributor with a used one. It cost $90, since electrical parts are not returnable, he wants to eliminate things before he invests the big bucks in a new distributor. He's not trying to be difficult - just eliminating other issues first. If there's a possibility that more than the fuse got damaged, do you know what it might be and how he can check it? Thanks

Hi - I received an email saying there was a reply but it just took me to the waiting for reply.

I would not be suprised if 90% of Honda 'no start' problems are due to the distributer. I do not trust used ones either! Also keeping a regular maintenance schedule(later) replacing spark plugs and dist cap/rotor will ensure new dist, lasts longer. Rebuilt ones are avail.

1988 Honda Prelude Engine   

1988 honda prelude. Car runs fine then temp guage shows motor getting hot. Fans do not turn on...car temp guage climbs (never let it overheat)...both fans only turn on when a/c button is pushed and the temp guage goes down. I have replaced the radiator fan switch. My question is: what triggers the fan? Is it tied to the temp guage? any help would be appreciated

There is a temp sensor and a fan relay. Commonly it is the sensor at top of engine. Not to be confused with the guage sender or the computer temp sensor that is on injected cars.If coolant is low, the sensors do not work properly. If you ground the sensor, with key on, the fans should come on.The fan comes on with a/c because that is a different circuit that is required because the a/c generates extra heat under the hood.Check coolant for bubbles with engine running (engine cold, cap off till thermostat opens)

1988 Honda Prelude Ignition System   

My son just bought a 1988 Prelude 2.0 SI and it is no longer starting. It had a dead battery before we bought it so we replaced it with a brand new one before driving it home. It started ok when brought it home. Shortly after bringing it home, we were unhooking the battery in order to do some work and the battery cable clamp broke. My son initially fixed it by cutting off the bad clamp and using a set of new, bolt down type clamps. This is right around when it stopped starting. The problem is that it is not turning over. We can hear a clicking sound when we attempt to start that is coming from the starter and have been told it is likely the solenoid making the noise. We have had the battery checked and it is good. We have had the starter (and solenoid) tested and it is good. We have since replaced the battery cables with a brand new set of cables that have the clamps built onto the ends. We have replaced most of the fuses and fusable links as well as the main relay and the ignition switch. We had the alternator tested and found that it is bad, but didn't think that would be the cause of it not turning over, could that be it? We have also tried running a wire straight from the positive terminal of the batter to the starter and nothing happens. We do get lights on the dash and the clicking sound still. Our next approach is to replace the computer module, but we are grasping at straws here. Any ideas? Thanks so much.

Actually, you seem to have covered all the bases! Sounds like , even though the batt is new, it is low on a charge (assuming that you ran it down with a dead alternator)
Try charging the battery for at least overnight and see how that works.Using jumper cables and another car sometimes not a good idea.That can hurt an alternator.

Actually, we just had it charged up by Autozone. We took it in to make sure it was still ok and had not been damaged and in order to test it they had to charge it up. We have left it unhooked since then except for briefly when we tried to test start it again. At the moment, the alternator is not in the vehicle. Should it be able to start without the alternator being present? Does it make any sense that it could be the computer module? We found out that that does control ignition to some extent so thought that could be the problem. We are planning to head to a Upullit this afternoon to grab another computer module, but I won't bother if that sounds like a definate NO to the problem. We have tried so much that we are stumped. Should we have gotten the starter to at least attempt to turn the engine over by running a wire from the positive battery terminal to the starter? The person who suggested that indicated some things that might be the problem if that caused the starter to turn the engine over, but the fact that it did nothing just further confused us.
Thx.

Starter circuit not part of the starting circuit but the Alternator is.Might want to install it first. Also use a test meter to ensure starter is getting at least 12-13 volts when cranking. If there is a concern re:'other' engine problems, pull the spark
pluga out and the plastic timing belt cover off. Turn the motor over by hand to see if there are any obvious engine problems.

1987 Honda Prelude Ignition System Malfunction When starting Always

When I go to turn the key, the car will start up, but after I let the key go, it turns back or springs back instead of staying in the start position. I am able to drive the car if I hold the key in the position.

It sounds like your ignition switch has gone bad. Not impossible to replace and cost should be about 25.00. Let me know if you need more info. Al

Can you help me in telling me how to replace it?

remove the plastic cover below the steering column either 3, 4 or 5 screws. this will allow you access to the internals. your ignition switch should be held in place with either a couple of torx or allen screws. pretty simple from that point. Let me know. AL

"remove the plastic cover below the steering column either 3, 4 or 5 screws. this will allow you access to the internals. your ignition switch should be held in place with either a couple of torx or allen screws. pretty simple from that point. Let me know. AL"

1987 Honda Prelude Fuel System Leaking When idling No pattern

I have a Fluding Crab.It dose it when it feals like it. No pater.One day it runs grate, the next it fluds out every vacume line in the breather box.It fills the charcloe canister with fuel. Can U help me..It has Duel crabs...1.8 Leter..Thanks Greg from Kirkwood Cali.

Hi;
Sounds like the float is sticking. Might want to either get another carb or have yours rebuilt. Good Luck Les.

1987 Honda Prelude All Part Groups Malfunction When idling Always

Idle good when in park. shift into drive it has rough idle. Also when I press brake pedal real rapid well in drive rpm drops real low to almost a stall. just had smog check and it passed no problem

Does it only run rough at idle, or is acceleration rough too?

Was it doing this when it passed the smog check?

The power brake booster may be leaking. This wouldn't apply if there is no change in engine idle while rapidly pressing the brake while in park.

Jun 30/05 12:22PM: "Does it only run rough at idle, or is acceleration rough too?

Was it doing this when it passed the smog check?

The power brake booster may be leaking. This wouldn't apply if there is no change in engine idle while rapidly pressing the brake while in park."

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You Asked:
Jun 29/05 9:48PM: "Idle good when in park. shift into drive it has rough idle. Also when I press brake pedal real rapid
well in drive rpm drops real low to almost a stall.
just had smog check and it passed no problem"

Acceleration is fine,only Idles rough when I put into
drive. Owner had it smogged, don't know if it was doing it then. Well in drive at idle I apply brakes
real rapidly and rpms drop to almst a stall.

same

Check for vacuum leaks. Especially any that could be created when the engine shifts while put in gear.

You could (for test purposes, don't actually drive the car like this) plug the large vacuum hose to the brake booster and see if this makes a difference.

1987 Honda Prelude Fuel System Won't Start Happens sometimes 

after its wqamed up , need to hold gas pedel down to start ,then i smell gas

Does your engine have a carburetor or fuel injection?

It has duel side draft carburetors and the motor is 1.8 5 speed

Hello, Sounds like flooding is happening. You may have a float bowl needle and seat sticking or dirt blocking proper operation of the fuel float.

Have a good Carbureator man check this one out. Carb overhaul may be needed to get things back to specs.

Roger

How are you doing here?

Thanks,

Roger

1987 Honda Prelude Engine Overheating When accelerating When warm 

Hi. I'm calling about my daughters car, becuase it keeps overheating when going up hills, i.e low gear high revs......and I have to go out and get her back ho,e at 2.00 a.m.!! Not so good. If you try and refill with water at the time, it just seems to leak straight out again........but if you wait unti it has cooled down, it will take the water, and be OK again.....if driven reasonably, say about 2.5K Revs.
But we live in New Zealand, and most roads have got some hills or mountains to climb, so it needs to be sorted. I suppose water pump, thermostat and head gasket are all areas for consideration, but I've been told there are some peculiarities about the Honda Coooling system for this vehicle, and was hoping you might know a bit more. What do you think the problem is ???

Hello, Pressure test the cooling system and also the radiator cap to see if a leak is found. Do not exceed radiator cap pressure for pressurizing the cooling system.

The radiator cap must be good or the system will not pressurize and raise the coolant boiling point. Coolant mixture is recommended at 50/50 ratio with water.

Your point..."I suppose water pump, thermostat and head gasket are all areas for consideration"... are right on target. Are they in good condition?

It is very important to get all of the air out of the cooling system when repairs are complete.

I would be sure the radiator cap is a good one, the coolant is a 50/50 mix, the radiator is clean inside and out and that the cooling fan is working properly. If all seem to be in order I would look at the operating temp and decide if the thermostat could be stuck. Water pump would be last on my list and before I changed it I'd look at the condition and tension of the drive belts on the engine.

Roger

Thankyou. I'll do the things that you suggest, but will obviouly need a bit of time to do them. Will be OK to come back to you with the results in a couple of days time....and how do I do that ? Is there a reference number or anything ? Also, I seek to have to type everything twice !! The first time I made a typo, and when I clicked 'CHANGE', it logged me out, saying 'PAGE EXPIRED' !! Never mind. You can't be Auto-Technicians and Computer -whizzes as well. Many thanks for you help so far.
ROD HUDSON.

Rod, Take the time you need. This is not a live chat.

COPY AND PASTE:

What I do BEFORE I click on SEND is to put the cursor in the top left corner to the left of the very first letter of the text I've typed. (first, scroll your text to the top as needed)

Left click and hold down the mouse and drag the cursor down until all of the text is highlited then release the mouse button.

Next, right click anywhere in the highlited area and release the mouse. From the drop down menu select COPY with a left click. THEN click on the SEND button. Doesn't matter if the text is still highlited or not, the text should appear in the next step for proof reading.

If you see an error or want to make any change...click the CHANGE button.** When your Browser shows you a blank text box just left click the blank text box so the cursor is blinking in the top left corner of the text box. Then, right click and release the mouse button. From the drop down menu left click the PASTE choice and your text will reappear in the text box.

Make your changes as desired and repeat the COPY step before you click SEND. If you like what you see click on SEND again and your message will post to the site. But if again you want to make a change BEFORE sending your message just click on CHANGE and repeat these steps.

Roger

** If at this point you see a page has expired or any such message push F5 and then push ENTER on you keyboard and the refreshed page should reappear with the blank text box. Left click the blank box and then right click the blank text box. From the drop down menu select PASTE and continue with your changes.

Hi. Thanks for all that, Roger. I've got no problem 'Copy and Pasting', as long as I know I need to ! I still think your CHANGE button is wrong. It implies 'EDIT', when what it means is 'START AGAIN' !! Anyway, we're getting side-tracked. I'll do the test you suggested on the car, and then get back to you. Many Thanks. [ I'm not really difficult. It just seems that way !!
ROD

Will you express your software concerns to Mr. All-Parts.com, Administrator, All-Parts.com? He will want to know what is happening to you when you use this site. The change button and the whole process is his baby. He is the owner and is in Canada. I'm a provider and I am in Oklahoma, USA.

I don't think you are difficult. Until I mastered the copy and paste trick I was ready to quit for all the duplicate effort I was facing. My ISP would disconnect me for no known reason and I would lose everything I had typed. I was livid. Mark taught me to copy and paste. I rarely forget to.

Roger

OK Roger. I will do. Thanks for that. Talk to you again soon.......about the car next time !!
ROD

I'll be here. Roger

Hello. Sorry to take so long getting back to you, but I was laid up last week with the flu !! Anyway, I've pressure tested the cooling system,and we eventually found another split hose !! THe stat, water-pump, rad etc all seem OK, but my mate, who's not a bad mechie reckons the head gasket might be starting to leak....and will only get worse. We don't know for sure though. Problem is that job is quite a big one and that car is obviously pretty old now. But I do like it !! If it get any worse, whether it will be worth doing or not is a question.So I guess that's about it for the moment.Although I do think it will overheat again ! Any thoughts ? Cheers for now. Rod Hudson

Not much to say now. If the cooling system is finally closed up, will pressurize properly, the thermostat opens when it should, the cooling fan works...did you run a compression test to see how strong the cylinders are? This test would speak to a head gasket problem if there is one.

If compression is good keep an eye open for coolant in the oil. That is also a sign of a head gasket problem.

Ready to close this question?

Roger

Yes. That's it ! I'll run compression tests and keep an eye, but the head gasket's probably a different issue !! Many Thanks for your help. We can close this one off now. Cheers.
ROD HUDSON

Thank you! To accept my answer so that I may be paid please look on your screen for the OK TO PAY TO MECHANIC button and click on it.

Roger

1987 Honda Prelude Fuel System  When driving When warm 

I have a 87 prelude 2.0si and while driving the car at 30/40 mph the pgmfi indicator light lights up and the idles high at about 12k. If i turn off the ignition and turn it back the but 95% of the time it lights up aagain. There is no gas leak. It never hapends at idle.

I read your question and I want to make sure I am understanding the context of it

you say the indicator lights up and the idle accelerates on its own to about 12k while at 30 to 40 mph?

when you turn off the ignition the light goes out?
Is this the symtom

while driving at 30/40 mph the pgmf1 goes on and when i stop the car the car idles at 12,000 rpm's

It is most important that you get the code numbers with a code reader there is no other way to start diagnosing your problem without a lot of guess work hit and miss process of elimination factors because there is a computyer on board your car and it will speck some the only code reader I have seen availiable is a Code Reader Import INN3173
for about 30.00
I hope this helps

There is no place to plug in the code reader on 87 Honda prelude unless, you can tell me where it is.

If there is no plug under the dash for a code scanner then your model has a built in computer that should give a specific code
is there any more details to the light
that lights up is there other information besides the numbers and letters
you gave me
I can check the code for the meaning

I just did some more investigating
and that code scanner that I referred to you is a valid scanner for your car.
The special connector would be located under the hood you would need to look carefully for it

can not find conector

I will check other sources and get back to you

Yes there is a connector next to the fusebox under the hood
You have to look very carefully or take your car to one of the major auto parts stores and they can point it out for you

I have not been able to lock any one into exactly where this connector is and I spoke with the dealership to get information on it
I anm still looking for a location give me this week end to get more info

look under the carpet at the front on the floor and there should be a light visible as soon as you turn on the ignition switch

are you still with me?
a new update remove the panel at the driver side seat belt your computer would be located there and a light to read the codes will be visible at the top
let me know what you find

1987 Honda Prelude Fuel System   

how is the best way to remove the carburetors X2 for rebuild

Copy and Paste the following link into your Address Bar, it contains instructions for removal-

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/0d/09/2e/[redacted] d800d092e.jsp

1987 Honda Prelude Fuel System   

my 87 prelude si automatic will not accelerate after it has warmed up (about 15 min) when you step on the gas pedal. When it is idling in driveway it is fine even after warmed up. When you give it gas it just shutters and starts to slow down. I have tried another EGR valve and get the same problem. It has some new vaccuum hoses. it is showing a code 12.

When was the last tune-up, notably the fuel filter?

For no power but good idle start by confirming adequate fuel pressure and checking for a restricted exhaust. If the converter is plugged the exhaust will glow red in darkness. If this problem is present shut the engine off to avoid damage.

That was one of the other parts that we replaced a couple of months ago.(Fuel Filter). I mean it runs fine for the first 10 minutes or so and then it acts up.How else can i check for a clogged cat. converter.

You can use a vacuum gauge, but 'll assume you don't have one. Alternativeley you can remove the oxygen sensor and see if you have more power.

I believe there a 2 oxygen sensors, 1 under the hood on exhaust manifold and the other near the cat converter. Does it matter which one to remove.

Whichever is easier IF the sensor is before the converter. This test allows the engine to 'exhale' which will show up as a power increase if there is an exhaust restriction.

It would still be nice to confirm adequate fuel pressure.

we will give it a look tomorrow

Ok i had the catylitic conv removed and replaced with just a piece of straight pipe. It ran better but still misses when you give it the gas. I also put a new distributer cap on because the old one i discovered was loose. One of the mounting bolts for cap had broke off in dist body, so i had to remove dist to drill and retap the threads. Pretty sure i got it lined back up the same because i marked it before i took it off.
It runs good till you have to give it gas. Say like you are gonna pass a car. then it just stumbles.

What, if any codes are you getting now? Did you try clearing the codes and test driving, then retesting the codes?

the only code it is showing is 12, which refers to the egr system. I cleared by pulling both the hazard fuse and the ecu fuse per the shop manual. turned ignition to where it would show codes whithout even starting it , it still flashed a 12. I haved started testing sensors per the shop manual and everything so far has been good. The PGM-FI always comes on also.

Check the temperature sensors and fuel pressure at this point.

ok, we will start those things next.

OK i checked the fuel pressure and it read 34-35. The shop manual say it should be 36-41. I checked the pressure regulator and it functioned as it should. I will order a new filter and see what it shows. Will be a couple of days though. I also checked some of the sensors and they have checked out good so far.

It would be interesting to know what the fuel pressure is when the probem appears.

Put the new fuel filter on and still get 34-35 psi. havent test drove it yet but i suspect it will do the same thing.

1987 Honda Prelude Fuel System   

car wants to turn over, but when I release the starter key it dies out and quits. It won't idle.

Sounds like the ignition switch.
If you have a volt/ohm meter or a
test light you can can check it.The
'run' circuit is the probable problem.
Check the ign fuse also and if it is
due for a tune up, do it soon.The distributors on those Hondas are expensive.

1986 Honda Prelude Ignition System  When idling When warm 

My 1986 Honda Prelude 2.0 si continuously surges when idling. Idling speed consistently Rises fairly high and falls again. I can't get an emisions certificate until it can maintain a consistent idling speed. Please help!

Check your IAC (idle air control) or it may be called ISC (idle speed control). It is a stepper motor that only takes control of the engine at idle and it sounds like your problem. Let me know if you have other questions.. Al

Thanks for the reply Al,

How can I identify this unit?? an how would I check it's integrity?

Thanks Ken

The IAC or ISC is attached to the throttle body and normally has 2, 3 or possibly 4 screws (or very small bolts) that hold it in place. If you decide to get a new one I recommend contacting your local junk yard and get the entire throttle body and this will give you extra parts for the future. you will also not pay as much for the entire trottle body as you would for just the ISC. Crazy but true. Let me know if I can help. Al

1986 Honda Prelude Fuel System Won't Start When repairing Always

I have an '86 Prelude and now it won't start. At first the car would chug occasionally and now it has just plain quit. I replaced the fuel pump and then started the car--worked fine. Hours later I went out to the car and nothing, I don't even hear the fuel pump building pressure prior to ignition. Any suggestions?

The reason you may not hear the fuel pump could be the fuel pressure is already built and the pump does not see the need to run. I have found the best way to verify fuel pump is first check the fuse / then the relay / then loosen the supply line to the fuel rail (normally a 17mm wrench or socket. If you get fuel the pump is ok.. in not then maybe something came loose or the pump was just waiting to fail when you installed it. Let me know if I can be more help. AL
PS. Your problem may be ignition related but the fuel system is the easiest to troubleshoot. AL

1986 Honda Prelude Engine  When driving Always

The engine temperature falls off to cold while driving. If the vehicle sits for a short period of time it comes back up and the air from the HVAC warms back up. Drive off & the engine temp (gauge) falls back to cold and the air from the system cools off to where it's ineffective at keeping the car warm in winter. Heat is fine when it's been warmed up sitting in the garage in the morning (15-20 minutes), but drive away and it cools right down. Fixable?

It sure sounds like your engine thermostat is stuck wide open.

It sounds exactly like a missing or defective thermostat. The thermostat is designed to keep the engine temperature at a warm and steady temperature. Fix this and you should be good for the winter! ... You will also get better gas mileage!
Dale

Why would it warm up in the first place? Another vehicle I had had had a defective stat and it wouldn't warm up idling or moving.

When the thermostat is open, the water circulates through the radiator. If you are sitting still, the radiator gets hot and the engine gets hot. When you drive, the air blows through the radiator and cools it off. Likely your other car was a rear wheel drive with a fan spinning constantly keeping the radiator cool.
Dale

Hi;
CHANGE THE THERMOSTAT. EVERY ONE HAS TOLD YOU THIS. Thans Les.

1986 Honda Prelude Engine Overheating Happens always Always

My 1986 Prelude 2.0 SI overheats no matter what. It idles between 2000 and 3000 rpm. It has a brand new thermostat, radiator cap, and a nearly brand new water pump. Both radiator fan motors work, but they don't turn on when the car is running. I have yet to check the radiator fan motor switch, but could that cause my engine to idle so high? Might it be a cylinder head or gasket?

Oh, and yes, I have a Haynes Repair Manual.

The high idle is caused by to much air entering the engine. 2-3k is very high, the cause can vary depending on if the engine is carbed or fuel injected for one.

You may have a blown head gasket for the overheating condition. Are you losing any coolant? Any signs of white smoke from the exhaust or a milky white appearance to the oil?

I haven't looked at the oil yet, however the exhaust does seem white. As for my car, it is fuel-injected.

I took off the camshaft cover, and the oil looked fine. It wasn't milky-white in appearance.

How much white smoke from the exhaust?

With the engine cold have you checked the coolant(antifreeze) level?

Do you have a repair manual for your car? If not there is probably a free one online to I'll give you the link to if needed.

There's a fair bit of white smoke coming from the exhaust.

Do you mean the coolant in the rad, engine, or reservoir? The reservoir's almost full and the rad has a fair bit as far as I know 'cause I emptied it and filled it again.

When the engine overheats, it starts smoking from somewhere around the bottom of the distributor.

If the problem with the smoke has been going on for a while, remove the spark plugs and compare them to one another. If antifreeze is getting into the combustion chamber (from blown head gasket, cracked head, etc) it will effectively wash the plug clean leaving a noticably light color compared to the other plugs."

I checked the spark plugs and they all seem the same.

You need to check for a major vacuum leak and the idle speed motor, the idle is to high.

1986 Honda Prelude Fuel System Won't Start When starting Always

I bought my 1986 prelude 2.0si from someone and it was running GREAT for about 2 months but I needed to get a new exhaust and I let it sit for about 3 months while I saved some money. Well I would start it up maybe once a month until I was ready for the repairs and everything was fine until one day it would not turn over. I noticed a gas leak on the drivers side near the door and I discovered that was where my fuel pump was. My next discovery was that when I turned one click in the ignition I did not hear the pump. So I went about replacing the pump. So I replaced the pump,fuel filter, had a tune up done and a oil change. Tried to start her up and nothing. The engine would crank and try to turn over but I couldnt get it to run. I hear the pump turn on but I know something is not right because when I check my fuel filter it is empty. I tried doing about 5 cycles of turning the key so that the pump would turn on and get some gas to the fuel filter but it never worked. I even put a little gas in the fuel filter but that didnt help. I also tried reversing the electrical wires on my pump just in case I messed that up but either way I have the wires seems not to make a difference as I still hear the pump turn on and build pressure. I have about a gallon of gas in the tank so I'm wondering if I need to fill the tank up or if my fuel line may be clogged...? By the way the pump is aftermarket and I even took it back and got another in case the first one I bought was faulty...I'm stuck...If it is the fuel line do you have any tips as to how to clean it??

I would start with adding another 2 gallons of gas. The pump needs some fuel in it to prime itself so it can give pressure. You could draw some fuel into the pump with a vacuum at the filter. Running a pump so low can be hard on it, especially on a dry start up.

1986 Honda Prelude Engine   

I have a 1986 Honda prelude 2.0 si and i have changed the head gasket twice already in the 8 yrs that I've had the car. Now there's water appearing in the valve area and when I start it to test the seal the piston pumps water back into the radiator and it splashes out.I went ahead and torqued the head down more and it didn't seem to hold so I was wonderingcould my cylinder head be whorped or is there another problem. The car has almost 180,000 mil on it but i figured that, that was nothing for a honda engine?

Could be warped
Could be cracked
Next time have a shop check
head surface with a straightedge
and a feeler guage.
getting head resurfaced a good idea
then you know its straight.
Also they can magnaflux it to check
for microscopic cracks.
A small crack might be invisible till head hot.
When head gasket is replaced, consider some
new head bolts or studs from ARP

I don't have a very big budget where could i get that done at inexpensively

1985 Honda Prelude Fuel System Malfunction Happens always Always

twin carb system flooding out with key on to start position. fuel flows steady from bowl vent tubes. onset of problem was all at once with no prior indication of fuel system malfunction. charcoal canister checks out ok??

Hello, try tapping on the side of the carb float bowls to see if a float is stuck and can't raise the needle valve into position to shut off fuel. There may be dirt caught in between the needle and seat. Or, a float that fills with fuel will sink and not raise the needle to the seat for shut off.

Roger

Been there, done that. Thinking something more like
a solenoid or check valve, fairly well covered the
standard/simple troubleshooting but unable to acquire
decent schematic or diagrams of dual carb fuel system

I spend alot of time and have had alot of success using the data bases available at my public library. Is such an option available to you?

The library I go to uses MITCHELL 1 reference material and is only available at the library computers. I can not log on this feature from anywhere else for free. The 1st 10 copies of material are free and it's a real help. Don't know if I can paste graffics to a reply, I may need some instruction if I can locate what you need.

Let me know if it's best for me to step out of the way and I will. I won't tie your question up.

Thanks,

Roger

May I hear from you, please? Thanks!

Roger

Hello? Will you please update this question status?

Thanks,

Roger

1985 Honda Prelude Chassis / Suspension & Steering Vibration When driving Always

From the list, I assume it needs ball joints/u-joints. The Prelude vibrates when in drive or reverse(automatic). It runs smoothly when in idle and/or park.

Am considering purchasing this '85 Prelude. How involved is it to replace the joints? I've done mechanical work on other cars, but not Honda's. It has 136k miles, and recently replaced waterpump, brakes, battery and alternator. Tires good. A/C is warm, but functions. Priced at $1,500.

Any suggestions on 1) joints/vibration 2) timing belts 3) A/C systems and 4) anything else to look for.

Thanks!

Hi:
Would recommend taking it to an import shop and have them put iton the lift and give it a good going over. Without looking at the car I can not tell you much. It's worth the $50.00 they will charge you and keep you from buying a money pit. This Hondas theparts can sometimes get pretty expensive due that some of them are dealer items only. If the A/C compressor is leaking it isa costly compressor. Would get an estimate from local parts store on the price of one and also the drier. Good Luck Les.

Okay, good advise. On an additional note, are the Preludes as reliable as the Civics and/or Accords? (or close to them).

Hi;
Honda cars are very reliable as long as they are well maintained. Is like any other vehicle. But when buying a used one always "" BUYER BE AWARE"". Good luck Les

1985 Honda Prelude Engine Upgrade When driving 

Car looses power when going up a grade in 4ht and 5th gear. No problems when on flat roads.

Hello!Sounds like a timing issue.Proceed below to time the engine correctly.This is the first step.If problem persists,let me know and we will look at carbeuration settings e.g.;float and base adjustments. Timing should take care of this though.
1984-85 Accord and Prelude Timing procedure.

The timing marks are located on the flywheel (manual transaxle) or torque converter drive plate (automatic transaxle), with a pointer on the rear of the cylinder block. All are visible from the front right side of the engine compartment after removing a special rubber access plug in the timing mark window. In all cases, the timing is checked with the engine warmed to operating temperature and at idle.

Following the manufacturer's instructions, connect a timing light to the engine. The positive and negative leads connect to their corresponding battery terminals and the spark plug lead to No. 1 spark plug wire.

Make sure that all wires are clear of the cooling fan and hot exhaust manifolds.

Set the parking brake and block the front wheels. Start the engine. Check that the idle speed is set to specifications.

Point the timing light at the timing marks. When the engine is idling, the red mark must align with the pointer. Some timing marks are indicated by 3 lines; the center one must be aligned with the pointer.

If necessary to adjust the timing, loosen the distributor hold-down bolt(s) and/or nut and slowly rotate the distributor in the required direction while observing the timing marks.

To complete the adjustment operation, tighten the hold-down bolt, taking care not to disturb the adjustment.

Switch the ignition OFF. Reinstall the rubber plug in the timing window and remove the timing light.


Fig. 2: If necessary, loosen the hold-down bolt, then turn the distributor to adjust the timing

The timing specs should be on your underhood decal.
I'm pretty sure yours is set to 18 BTDC.

Please accept this answer if this is helpful.Thanx,MightyMike.

I will have the timing checked and will get back to you.

Thanks, Joe Mancuso

The timing has been checked and is okay. What else could be the problem?

Joe Mancuso

O.K. As the previous responder suggested, if the timing checks out o.k.,the fuel system needs to be checked but I'm not quite sure if yours is carburated or injected. If it has a carb, then yes the float, base intake manifold gasket vaccum lines need to be checked. If it is injected then check the injection system. If a system diagnostic scan hasnt already been done, it wouldnt hurt to do so and may help pinpoint the problem. Check with one of your local parts houses.Some offer this service for free.If everything checks out,then my friend, you didnt state the mileage but at 20yrs,I would have to say shes got more then a few.A compression check would give you an idea.If the compression in each cylinder does not test within 10% of each other(for instance, 3 cylinders pump 90psi and the last 80psi) there is your weakist link.On flat ground the strain put forth to the motor is not as great as climbing a grade.The greater the strain with all cylinders not acting insync will cause a noticable amount of engine power loss.If your problem falls into this area, you can try to do what I call a "band-aid" fix.(this is the old wise tale that mechanics never work on their own vehicles) I dont recommend it,but it has worked on one of my own personal vehicles to the extent of squeezing out another 60k miles before I finaly had to change out the motor.Change your motor oil with a good high quality oil. There are several on the market specificaly designed for high mileage vehicles.When doing so,add an oil additive(if you use a syntetic or have done so in the past make sure to use the same one)Now would also be a good time to drain and refill the tranny,flush the cooling system and check all other fulid levels.Now heres where it can get a bit pricey,if possible,drain any remaining gas(leave enough to get to the gas station)and fill the tank with premium(with todays prices you may have to get a bank loan)and add an octane booster, preferably one that has injector cleaning additives included.Again,I dont recomend this as a fix.Like most people,I'm a low budget and every bit helps.
Good Luck,
Paul

1984 Honda Prelude Fuel System Lagging When accelerating No pattern

I just had the PCV, fuel filters, air filters, spark plugs, wires, etc changed on the Prelude - and the alternator. My wife's complaining that it doesn't have the pick-up it use to have when starting out after a stop & up into the 25 to 30 mph range.

It's really sluggish sometimes & works great other times with nor apperant reason.

I found the secondary fuel filter installed was the wrong one & was smaller then the specified one. I have the correct to replace it with but want to make sure on the flow direction (the filter I'm replacing doesn't have an arrow on it).

The hose runs from the firewall to the filter & the filter along between the engine & the carborater area but I haven't been able to follow it any further. So which way is the flow going - -

Any other possibilities on the diagnosis. It DID NOT have this problem prior to changing the alternator & the routine maintenance work.

I tried to answer this yesterday but my computer would not allow me to transmit the answer to u. It does sound like a fuel restriction or a small vacuum leak. The fuel filter should not be identical on both ends (one end flat, one end round or different size connections on end). Give the fuel filter the replacement and see what happens. Let me know from there. AL

I think I solved the problem already - at least my wife says I did, I haven't driven it enough on paved roads since checking the spark plugs to know for sure, & it's hard to tell on these dirt roads!

I pulled the plug wires to check them & make sure they were on the plugs tight & one of the plugs was loose. I tightened it in but that didn't solve it. So then I pulled that specific plug & it hadn't been gapped - so I gapped it & reinstalled it & pulled the one next to it & it had been gapped.

I couldn't afford to pay the mechanics labor rate so he had me take the car by his house on a week when we were going out of town so he could change the alternator & stuff there. I figure one of his kids probly came out into the garage about the time he did that specific plug & distracted him - - but it looks like that was the problem.

Thanks for the help anyhow!