Isuzu Amigo

2007 Isuzu Amigo Engine   

engine delivers limited power under load or at high speed.want accelerate as fast as normal. looses speed going up hill.

Hello, What year vehicle is this? A 2007 would likely have warranty?

That said, I recommend a compression test and verify also that the exhaust is not restricted. Can the timing be adjusted? What is the altitude where the vehicle is located?

Roger

1993 Isuzu Amigo Ignition System Malfunction When starting Always

the engine starts but when i let the key return to the run position it shuts off.

Hello, That may be as simple as a bad ignition switch (Not the ignition key lock cylinder). Can you let the key come back from the start position and hold it sort of between start and run and the engine will continue to run? That will usually be a bad switch.

Roger

Your right it will run if you hold the key just right. I will check the ignition switch and get back to you.

1989 Isuzu Amigo Ignition System   

This is a tough problem.The truck will start just fine.Then when you turn it off and try to restart it,it will start and then quit,start and quit,start and quit.However,if I start it and keep the key turned with the starter turning and rev it up it will then stay running when you let off the key.I have never come across this type of problem before.The truck was running really rough,so I changed the plugs,plug wires.This didn't help.So I changed the fuel filter and that fixed the rough running.It acts like it isn't getting enough fuel when it constantly starts and quits.So why will it keep running when you leave the key turned and rev it up?Could it be the fuel pump?

Hello,

Let's check to see if it is getting to much fuel. Hold the accelerator to the floor and try starting? Next, try holding the accelerator half-way down and starting. What are the results? Note- try this when the problem would be present.

Also, does it matter how long the engine runs and/or is shut down before the problem appears? Does it happen at certain engine temperature?

Do you ever see black smoke from the exhaust, notably when it first starts to run okay following the hard start?

Perform the above testing and give me an update.

It dosen't matter what position the gas pedal is in.The engine starts and then quits.The only way to get it started is like I said.Hold the key all the way while giving it gas untill it stays running.No black smoke.Once it is running,it dosen't matter how long you let it run or how long it is not running.The same start,quit,start,quit.Could it have anything to do with the fuel pressure?Another thing I could mention,awhile back the oxygen sensor light came on and I replaced it.However the light would not go out.I found out that the computer is designed to turn the light on every 90,000 miles.The amigo has 180,060.I have to take out the insterment panel.There is a circuit board behind it.There are 2 holes in it.One has a screw and the other dosen't.When I remove the screw and put it into the other hole the light should go out.Pretty crazy right?Could this oxygen sensor light being on be causing the problem from the computer?

Try turning the key on (without engine cranking) and let the fuel pump prime. Turn the key off, then back on and allow it to prime again. Now try to start the engine once fuel pressure has been established... assuming the pump is priming for 2-3 seconds during initial key on?

Give me an update and we'll continue.

Thanks for the help.I am not home right now.I will get back to you tomorrow.By the wat my name is also Douglas.Small world huh?

Well I tried the key turning suggestion and it didn't work.The truck will only stay running if I keep the key turned while reving up the engine.So you don't think the oxygen sensor light has anything to do with it?

Does the fuel pump prime when you turn the key?

When the problem is present try unplugging the oil pressure sensor, what happens now?

Have you reset the light again?

No I haven't reset the oxygen sensor light yet.Where is the oil pressure sensor on the engine?

Copy an paste the folloing link into your address bar-

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/18/39/b[redacted] 39b6/repairInfoPages.htm

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/18/47/8[redacted] 4787/repairInfoPages.htm

Also try the above link, to see you can check computer trouble codes using self-diagnostics. Let me know which, if any trouble codes are found.

Do you hear the pump prime when cycle the key on... while problem is present?

Thanks for all this great help.No,I don't hear the fuel pump when the key is turned on.I have a ford ranger and I can hear the fuel pump in it easily.I work on the weekends so I probably will not be able to check out the oil pressure sensor or trouble codes until tuesday.I will get back to you as soon as I can.Have a good weekend.Thanks for the autozone pages.

I had someone turn the key while I listened for the fuel pump and I didn't hear it.However when I was installing the new fuel filter,I had the fuel line from the tank loose and when I turned the key,gas shot out of the line.The truck will still start and then stop unless I keep the key turned and rev up the engine.Another thing I have noticed is that sometimes when I get the engine running,the fuel and battery light stays on the insterment panel.The voltage on the panel reads 11 volts.However,when I rev the engine upto 4000 rpms and let off the lights go out and the battery voltage reads near 16 volts.Could this be contributing to the starting problem?I checked for trouble codes and didn't find any.The only code was 12 which is normal.The oil pressure seems to be fine.

What should I try now?

What are the rpm's when the voltage reads 11? Is the battery strong?

Did you try disconnecting the oil pressure sensor as I suggested?

The rpms are around 2000.The battery is brand new.When I briefly rev the engine to 4000 rpms the battery voltage goes to 18v.Also when the battery voltage is 11v,all the instrument lights are on,o2,battery,gas,oil.When the battery voltage gets to 18v all the lights go out.I unhooed the oil pressure sensor and nothing changed.I only unhooked one wire,should I have unhooked both of them?

Yes, both.

Which engine do you have?

BTW- Is your gauge reading correctly, 18 volts is overcharging.

I will check the voltage coming off the battery with my volt meter tomorrow.I will let you know what it reads.

The voltage off the battery is reading 11.7v when the instrument lights are on and 14.5v when the engine is reved up and the instrument lights go off.

I failed to see your reply about the oil sensor wires.Do I need to make sure the wires plug back into the plugs they came out of?The engine is a L4 2.6l with fuel injection.

You unplugged both and the problem remained the same?

Perfrom voltage checks (key On, engine Off) at the alternator-- test large Bat wire and small wire which will have key On volts. Should be very close to battery voltage.

No I didn't upplug both wires yet.Do I need to make sure the wires plug back into the plug they came out of?

I unplugged both wires and nothing changed.BTW,with the engine running the oil pressure guage still was reading as if the sensor was still plugged in.I checked the big wire on the alternator and it read the same as the battery,As for the small white wire,there is a plug with 3 small wires that plugs into the alternator.Do I need to unplug this and check for voltage?

Unplug or backprobe, whichever your are equipped to do.

Sorry but I got home late.I will let you know monday what I find out about the alternator voltage.

I unplugged the conection on the alternator.With the key on engine off,I get battery voltage on two wires and nothing on the other two.When I get the amigo running the battery voltage reads less than 12v untill I rev the engine and get a brief belt squell.Could it be the alternator not generating enough inital voltage?However the truck will stay running even though the voltage reads low.

Yes, it does sound as if the alternator is defective IF the engine is spinning the alternator fast enough (belt not slipping). Most chain parts stores will test this free of charge.

The engine still should run regardless of key position. It seems you likely have a problem with the distributor OR ignition switch.

Would the alternator be causing the starting and quiting problem?

Not likely. With the battery fully charged, unplug the alternator. If the starting problem is still there with the alternator removed from the ciruit, it is not the problem.

So what should I do next about the starting problem?Sorry this is getting so drawn out.Why is it that when I rev the engine up with the key in the start position the engine will keep running when I let off the gas?

Check for voltage (bat +) at the coil during cranking and when you release to the run position (when problem is present and engine will stall). We know it is there during cranking, as the engine starts. Is voltage dropping out when the key is released?

Thanks.I will need to get somebody to turn the key tomorrow.I will let you know what I find.

Okay, something is dropping out. Will need to determine if its spark or fuel.

My voltmeter quit working,don't know why.I will get back to you with what I find out about the voltage at the coil as soon as I get my voltmeter working.

I seem to be having a hard time checking the voltage on the coil.I tried pushing the positve lead on the voltmeter into the rubber boot of the coil and grounding the negative lead.When I do this I can't get the truck to start.All it does is crank.The only readings I get on the meter is negative numbers.

Sorry I was without internet access. Were you checking for voltage at positive feed to the coil? Not at the coil output (spark) wire?

I was checking voltage at the coil output.So are you saying I need to check at the coil input?

I checked the voltage going inot the coil.It reads 12.5v before I try to start the engine and drops down to 10.5v when the engine starts and then quits.

Okay, now check the fuel injector voltage. Compare Key On and when the engine stalls.

Where do I check the fuel injector voltage?Can I check it at the fuel injector relay?

You can check at the relay and the injector. You should have it a both with engine running.

I checked the voltage at the wiring harness plug that goes to the injectors.With the key in the on position the voltage is the same as the battery.When I start the truck the voltage drops to around 9.5v Then the truck quits.When I do the thing of keeping the key turned and reving up the engine,the voltage goes upto around 13.5v.

9.5 is low, does it stay that low when the engine first starts? The load from the starter will pull the volts down, but it should recover the instant you release the key. Perhaps it is, hard to tell how quickly your meter recovers.

What happens if you use a remote starter to starter the engine? In this case the key is turned to the on (run, not start)position. Then voltage is applied to the small wire on the starter via the remote starter (simply a switch) to crank the engine. This will attempt to to start the engine without ever switching to the 'start' position on the ignition switch. Use caution when 'jumping' the starter because this bypasses safety switches (neutral, clutch, etc) as well as (can) put you in the vicinity of moving parts!

By remote starting,do you mean just using jumper cables from the battery to the starter? Can I use the amigo battery or do I need to use a battery from another vehicle?

Copy and paste the link below into your address bar--

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/items/Parts-Accessories_Automotive-Tools__remote-starter_W0QQ_catrefZ1QQ_flnZ1QQ_trksidZp4506Q2ec0Q2em1

There you will see images of remote starter switches (the ones used for diagnostic purposes).

--One lead/wire from the switch goes to the small wire on the starter solenoid. This is the wire that gets power when you turn the key to the start position.

--The other lead goes to battery positive... anywhere you can safely tap into 12 volts supply without interfering without 'sensitive' circuits (such as power to the computer etc).

When the switch is pressed (simple on/off switch) power passes through the switch from the battery positive to the solenoid and the starter spins.

Remember this bypasses all safety switches/controls and the engine will spin REGARDLESS of what gear you are in (meaning if carelessly left in gear... the engine will start and the vehicle will start moving!) Make sure to be in park/neutral with the parking brake applied and the wheels blocked. Use extreme caution around moving engine parts!

So in your opinon,do I really need this switch or could I just use one side of the jumper cables to connect the postive side of the battery to the starter wire with the key in the on position?I know that as soon as I touch the jumper cable to the starter it will fire.

To bring the starter to life, apply voltage to the small wire. The switch is more convenient and a little safer, but the same can be accomplished with jumper wires.

Jumper cables would be cumbersome. Instead I'd look a jumper wire to the small terminal on the starter. Then use another jumper secured to battery positive, touch the two wires together while safely standing on the side of the vehicle. There will be a small spark when you touch the wires together. This spark must be kept away from flammable sources AND the battery which could explode in the presence of spark.

So by doing this remote start,what exactly am I looking for?Am I supposed to try to see what the voltage is going to the starter or just to see if the Amigo starts and then stops like before?

Which wire do I cdonnect the batery wire to?There is a thick main wire attached to a post and then there is a 3 wire harness connector plugged into the starter.

I think it is a black/white wire. Unplug the 3 wire connector and check with your voltmeter to be sure-- One lead to ground, the other to one wire at a time... turn the key to start... this will show you which one has power when the key is turned to start. This test is to see if the problem is exclusive to switch positon.

Another possibility is a mechanical problem from build-up on the valves, etc. Try using some top engine cleaner (GM Top Engine cleaner, Marvel Mystery Oil, etc). Any improvement with these?

Thanks,I'll let you know monday since I work untill after dark on weekends.

Okay, if anything else comes to mind before then I'll update you.

Ok,I unplugged the 3 wire harness.There is11.5v on the thick wire with the key in the off position.No power on the other wires.What strange is that with the harness disconnected the truck still starts.So what wire do I need to connect to the remote wire start?Would it be the main wire connected to the starter by the post?

Sorry for my stupidity,I was checking the wiring on the alternator,instead of the starter.LOL

Do I need to unplug the small wire connected to the starter? Then what,connect a wire to the wire going to the starter and then connect that wire to another from the battery?Where do I attach the voltmeter to check voltage?

When battery voltage is applied to that 'temrminal' on the starter, the starter will operate. You need to be able to 'switch' it off quickly and safely, make sure you are in park, e-brake ON, and out of harms way.

Here is a link with a diagram-

http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/[redacted] 392f.gif

Note the ignition switch configuration.

I have received two new email reply notifications on this question but there is no text???

How do I read the voltage when I do this?

See if it starts or not. If not troubleshoot by checking for spark to the plugs and fuel (pump operation & injector pulse). Which is missing?

I need to post another question about another vehicle.How do I do this without having to get another password or enter another credit card number?

I'll try to find out and get back to you.

What is the vehicle and question? No need to wait to ask question, ask away.

I have a 1987 maxima.The problem is the shifting.We got this car when my wifes father died.It has always needed to go about 4 miles beore it would shift into overdrive. No problem.Now it will shift fine but after turning it off and then starting to go down the road it will not shift into overdrive.One night we were on interstate it downshitfted and would not go back into overdrive for about 10 miles.This problem seems to be getting worse.The car has 120000 miles.One other thing is that when the overdrive button is out,the car shifts normally except for the overdrive.When the overdrive button is in and the problem turns up,the cars rpms race upward when getting it to change gears.I do not know if it is mechanical or electrical.

Some mechanical concerns can interfere with electrical operation.

Was the 4 miles always with a cold engine?

Remove, clean (any corrosion) and inspect (pin damage, etc) the electrical connectors to the transmission. Inspect the wiring as best you can too (rub throughs, etc).

SOMETIMES a trans flush and fill will help with 'sticky' problems. Do you know if the fluid/filter has ever been changed? 20+ years is a long time. How is the level and color of fluid?

Any check engine light while the engine is running? Regardless it would be nice to perform self-diagnosis just to see if anything comes up. Need instructions to do this?

http://www.troublecodes.net/Nissan/pre88nssn.shtml

The above link, hopefully, matches your computer diag...

Many transmission shops will perform free diagnostics, including most Aamco Transmission shops. Note- an experienced tech is highly recommended as younger guys will have little to no experience with something of this vintage.

Also note some tranny shops specialize in 'free' diagnostics as an initialization period for transmission 'sales.' Trust your instincts.

Check out things I mentioned and get back to me.

I'm guessing you don't live in the salt belt.

Yes,The car always had to go 4 miles on a cold engine,no matter what time of year.The ecm is under the passenger seat I think.I will see about any trouble codes and get back to you.

Okay, as long as it wasn't shifting to neutral, this is normal until the coolant reaches operating temp (I assume this took 4 miles).

Do you have a repair manual? I was wondering if you are aware of alldata-

www.alldatadiy.com

Pro-grade info rated good overall, nicknamed 'somedata' by critics. (24.95 for one year subscription, 14.95 for additional vehicle). This subscription includes Service Bulletins (TSB's, which can be helpful) which offers an advantage to buying the factory service manual (FSM).

Check ebay if interested in the FSM. These are sometimes found on cd/dvd but BEWARE of copies of common Haynes/Chiltons manuals that are not pro-grade.

I really think you need good service information to follow. I still want to assist you, just a recommendation.

Okay,

One more thing to check, check the engine coolant temp sensor electrical connector. Clean corrosion here if present, and lube with electrical grease.

You are shifting fine until you shut the vehicle off and still shift fine IF the overdrive is turned off, this would lend logic to the belief that the trans is primarily okay. Do not allow the trans to slip when the problem is present, turn the overdrive off.

It seems Nissan is fussy about fluid too, ashless trans fluid only. This might be an interesting point to gauge the experience of a "Technician" that offers free estimates (or tries to sell you rebuild/etc).

Would you happen to know where the engine temp sensor is located?

Usually near the thermostat housing.

Here is a couple links that show pics:

http://www.autozone.ro/N,[redacted] //shopping/partTypeResultSet.htm

http://www.autozone.ro/images/products/wl2/wl2su401002.jpg

At least one of the links should work.

I wanted you to check this because it is a know problem on these cars & the OD don't activate until til coolant reaches temp... so flaky readings (corrosion, etc) on this circuit could cause shifting problems.

How long must the trans cool before normal shifting resumes (w-OD on)?

I found the sensor.It is located on top of the radiator.I unplugged the connection and cleaned the contacts.The problem is still there.After the car has warmed up and is shifting into overdrive,if I have to stop at a traffic light or am in stop and go traffic,the shifting is erratic and when back on the highway the car sometimes will not shift back into overdrive.When this happens I have to take the car out of overdrive because otherwise the car will not shift out of second gear.This is our main vehicle and I really need to be able to depend on it.Do you think it is electrical or mechanical?

After rereading your previous reples,I noticed you said someting about the trans slipping.That is exactly what it seems like when the problem happens.The car has little pull and the rpms race like crazy,with the overdrive button in.In times past,if the car was pulled off the road and turned off for about 5 min. and then slowly accelerated on the highway the car would shift fine into overdrive.Does turning the car off somehow reset the computer?

Will it shift fine all day if overdrive is off?

Turning the car off allows does reset things, in some ways. It also allow trans components to cool (shrink, etc) which may be what is restoring proper operation.

If you allow the trans to slip, this will cause permanent damage.

Yes it will shift fine if the overdrive is off.We are gettting ready to go on vacation and I would like to get this problem fixed before we go.Should I just take it to a shop to have it looked at? I will try to look for any touble codes today.

When I went to check the trouble codes,the ECM was already in diagnostic mode.Could this have been causing the shifting problems?The only codes I found in mode 3 was code 13 and 21.code 13 is the ehgine temp. sensor.Does this mean I should replace it?It does seem to have a influence on the overdrive.Code 21 just says no ingnition reference,probably because the car was not running.

You could test the sensor with a meter, but it doesn't cost much.

Interestingly enough it appears (see link)you could borrow the sensor out of your Amigo.

http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=2106&ptset=A&searchfor=Transmission+Control+Module

Click on 'See All Vehicles This Product Fits.'

I don't know the consequences of leaving this system in diagnostic mode. I'd expect a loss in performance/economy but just speculating.

If you have a meter you could compare the readings of the two sensors. Unplug the sensor and measure ohms. At the same temp the readings should be very close. What this doesn't test is if the sensor is failing at certain temps/etc.

You could also erase the codes and test drive. Does the shift problem and/or coolant sensor code come back?

Note this is second response.

Best case scenario is:

You have a faulty coolant temp sensor or wiring and the problem is fixed. In this case you may have avoided a costly rebuild as many techs are quick to replace the transmission. It is easy to apply theory as to why the trans is failing internally when shift problems occur. Many good trans shops send customers out the door, telling them they have an engine management problem. Others (amongst the honest) don't troubleshoot thoroughly enough.

Worse case:

You accidentally left the key on when cleaning the sensor and this set the code.

You may still have an internal problem which is impractical for you to test (test equipment, procedure, etc).

I really hopes it is just the sensor. This would be no different than a shifting problem in a new car.

As far as is it electrical or mechanical? Think of this way, say you have an electrical solenoid opening mechanical valve. If the valve is not moving it could be because the valve is stuck/etc OR the solenoid is bad (or not being 'told' to move).

Thanks for all the advice,I will get a temp. sensor as soon as I can.

Sorry, I just realized I posted the wrong link before--

http://shop.oreillyauto.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=NIE&MfrPartNumber=TS25151&PartType=290&PTSet=A

If you get a chance take a look at the above link and let me know if the link works.

Yes the link worked,however,this is not the temp.sensor that the maxima has.The one on the car has a two wire 6" pigtail coming out of the sensor.All the sensors from the parts stores are the same as the one you found.All those sensore have horizontal posts and the ones on my maxima are vertical.Do you know where I can find one online?

Also,the shifting problems are still present.Once the car gets warm it shifts into overdrive.Then when you stop somewhere for a short time and restart the car it shifts funny,trans. spins,unless the overdrive button is out.

Did you try clearing the code and seeing if it comes right back?

Are you sure you found the coolant sensor vs the temperature switch?

How do I clear the codes? The sensor that I am talking about screws into the top of the radiator.If this is not the right one where would it be?

Disconnect the negative battery cable for five minutes, step on the brake pedal and reconnect.

What are the wire colors to the sensor you found? It appears the sensor has two wires, a light-green/red wire and a black wire.

I looked up the location for the coolant sensor in my haynes manual.It says it is near the air pressure sensor and syas it in mounted into the intake manifold.I don't see it.There is a plug that screws into the intake manifold where the sensor should be.

Try clearing the codes. Turn the key on but do not start the engine. Turn the key off and check the codes. If the code does not come back unplug the sensor you found and turn the key on. Recheck the codes, see if the computer is recognizing this sensor as the coolant sensor.


I found another reference for location on the same engine-

Under hood, center, front engine area, mounted in driver side front of cylinder head

Hard saying, it is hit or miss on early systems as service info tends to be inaccurate.

I looed all over the engine and still can not find these wires.I cleared the codes and when I started the car they came back.The only sensor I have found in the coolant system screws directly into the top of the radiator.Two 6 inch blach wires coming out of it into a plug.

It is possible my diagram is inaccurate, happens sometime especially on older models. If you unplug that sensor and check the ohms (cold), what do they read? Does the ohms change when the engine is warm?

You may want to stop by the Nissan Dealer and look at the sensor. They will have the right one.

Sorry for not getting back sooner.I have a 1990 with 284,000 mile ford ranger 2.9l that has a cracked head.I am replacing the engine.My friend that is helping me is concerned about the computer running it right.Will the computer have a problem with a new engine?

Same engine(?), should be no problem other than relearning idle but this is not biggie after dealing with a cracked head.

How many vehicles do you have?

We have 4.A 1990 ranger,and 1987 maxima,the amigo and a 1985 pulsar that hasn't run in about 10 years.I keep saying I am going to fix it but just can't seem to get around to it.Any suggestions on getting the exhaust manifold botls loose on the ranger?We aree trying to take the manifold loose from the exhaust pipe instead of taking it loose from the engine.

Do you know where I can get another oil level sensor?While taking out the sensor the wire twisted and broke off.I didn't know there was a clip that held the wire into the sensor.

Without torches they may not come. If you have a mini torch (with the special MAPP gas approved torch), these get quite hot (sometimes hot enough for exhaust bolts). May need to cut the bolts.

Call around for the sensor. I can look if you still need help later.

All the auto parts stores I have checked online don't have this sensor.The ones that say they have it don't have the one that I do.The oone I have screws in to the oil pan and it is round.The wire that connects to it has a rubbber connector that has a wire clip to keep it from coming unplugged.What happend was as I was unscrewing the sensor the wire twistted and broke off.I didn't know to take out the clip and pull the connector off.I now need to figure out how to reattach the wire back to the connector.

See if you can solder the wire to the connector, then coat with a sealer to prevent corrosion.

I will try that.I am having a hard time getting the fuel rail off the injectors.Is there a trick to it,or simply getting enough force to pop it iff if them?Also,the harmonic balance pulley on the drive shaft is really stubborn coming off.I have the right pulley puller but the thing just dosen't want to slide out.

If the injectors are disconnected, they should pop off. The seal/ring gets real stiff with age.

Some guys use impacts on pullers, but this can be dangerous (even with eye protection) and is not recommended. Which pulley are you trying to remove?

The harmonic balance pulley on the front bottom of the engine.I need it off so I can remove the timing chain cover.

I finally found that coolant sensor on the maxima.It is located behind what looks like the water pump.The is some kind of guard on the belt side of the engine.Are you familar on how to get to this sensor?The guard has a front and back plate.The front plate bolts on to the back one but the back on is the one I need to get out of the way.

Did you inspect the connector? There was a bulletin about corrosion at the connector.

Any luck on the balancer? You can tap the end of the puller with a hammer (not too hard), then tighten a little more, tap again with hammer, etc. Wear eye protection, safety first as you are dealing with a lot of pressure.

With that guard there I can't get my hands on the connector.It is it there so far that I have to use a flashlight even in broad daylight.I just have to get those plates out of the way.I can't get to the plug.We have tried hitting the pulley with a plastic hammer with no luck.Would using PB Blaster or Cold Shock help?

What you do is tighten the puller pretty tight, then hit the drive bolt on the puller (NOT the pulley) with a hammer. This adds a bit of shock to the tension that's already there.

Is the timing cover in the way for sensor removal? My information is a bit limited on this. Did you consider a subscription to:

alldata.com/diy

OR

eautorepair.net

Alldata is currently running a 1 Month special for $12.95 (enter coupon/promotion code- 1MOTR2587) OR 1 Year for $19.95 (code- NET27782).

eautorepair.net's only promotion seems to be for AAA Members (www.aaa.com/eAutoRepair). 30% off if you are a member: 1 week - $6.99 (regularly ~$9.99)
1 month - $10.49 (regularly ~$14.99)
1 year - $20.99 (regularly ~$29.99). Prices may have raised recently.

Note that eautorepair has took it upon themselves to decide you cannot use information on the transmission and a couple other areas (so decided not to include it, or didn't in the past).

OK.We have changened out the engine of the ranger.We now have a problem with the idle.It is really rough.Also the truck has no power going up hills. None.We checked the timing and it was fine..We ynhoojed the advancce plog and the computer did just fine,What could the problem ne?

Alsp,the lifters are making a noise.Is this just because it is a new engine?

The computer did just fine, do you mean advancing the timing?

Are the lifters getting oil? Do you hear the noise at idle; warm, cold, etc? Make sure the top end is getting oil. By the way, is the engine new as in brand new OR new to your truck?

Sometimes engines are changed (worn out, no power, stalling) because of a restricted exhaust (plugged cat. converter). Make sure the exhaust is not glowing hot after the engine warms (shows up well in darkness, do not touch... of course).

Lack of fuel will equal lack of power too.

This is a brand new rebuilt engine from ford.Could I have a vacuum line in the wrong place?I am thinking the map sensor line might be out of place.I have it going to the main vacuum tree.Is this right? Do you have a vacuum line diagram for this 1990 2.9l? Could a mispalced ground wire cause these problems? I attached one to the starter and the other to the frame near the oil filter.

Visit autozone.com and click on Repair Guides. They should have a vacuum diagram listed.

Any trouble codes?

The only trouble code was a dynamic response error.I think I failed to punch the gas when I should have with the engine running.Would a ground wire being in the wrong place cause any problems?

I found the problem.It was a loose fuel injector connection.Now the only concern is the lifters on the left side clicking.Is there a break in period for a brand new engine? Could the factory not got the valves adjusted right?

Yes, they could be misadjusted or not getting oil. I assume the engine come with the valve covers installed?

There is a break in period, but the lifters should not be hammering.

Does it run like a brand new engine other than the lifter noise?

No the engine did not come with the valve covers.Yes, it does run like a new engine except for the the lifters clicking.I contacted the ford dealership and they said to give it a little bit of time and if it kept clicking they would adjust the valves.But is this normal for an new engins?Does the factory run a engine on a dynamo for a while before installing it?I want to be excited that I have a good engine but at the same time am concerned that the factory might have missed something.

This is considered the best engine to buy, right from the factory.

The lifters don't chatter on a new car, nor should they on a new engine. In the same breath they may stop making noise, but I wouldn't wait too long.

I do not know if Ford test runs their engines.

What is too long? How many miles should I give it?

I'd say 40-50 miles should be enough to 'break-in' noise concerns. At the same time, the chattering can be the sound of wear. Do you feel confident adjusting them yourself? How much of an inconvenience is it to have the dealer adjust the valves?

I took the ranger to the ford dealership.They said it would be ready monday. I think I have found the starting problem with the amigo.It has something called a fast idle solenoid.When I unplug the electrical connector,the amigo starts right up like normal.The only thing is the battery voltage is around 10v and the battery light is on.Then when I rev the rpms above 3000,the voltage goes up to 14v and the battery light goes out.Could that solenoid have anything to do with the voltage?Do you have any suggestion on where to find one of these? I searched all the online parts sites I could think of but no one had it.Will it be ok to drive the amigo with the solenoid unplugged?

I missed your reply. Give me an update on where things stand now.

Hello,

Are all or any your vehicle running okay now? I hope you are out enjoying them instead of working on them.