Isuzu Pick-up

2005 Isuzu Pick-up Drive Train / Driveline   

I have a 2005 Colorado 4wd and I`m having difficullty removeing the left front drive axle. Does it not just pop out?

There is a retaining ring on the end of the shaft that holds it in place.

While it does just pop out, it is not always easy to overcome the lock ring. The joints in the shaft should not be pulled against. Instead use a brass punch and hit against the metal part of the shaft (tripod shaped where it enters the differential...)Oh, and Yes you get to use a hammer.

Thank you for the info. I think I must have been trying to pop it out at a slight angle...but it finally came out.

They get easier with practice.

What were you doing anyway?

1995 Isuzu Pick-up Engine Hesitating When accelerating When warm 

Ok here's the deal. It starts fine, idles for 10 min or so then runs real rough and stalls. Getting a code for the crankcase position sensor and fuel metering system lean signal. My codes are 34 41 and 44. Any help would be appreciated. Checked ALL the basic crap and to no avail. Even changed the TPS sensor because it was reading bad on the ohmmeter. That didn't help. Also checked all wires, plugs, connections (found a broken wire), Map sensor, Maf sensor, EGR duty solenoid (sometimes this makes a real bad chattering noise). Still, I'm thinking about getting a new distributer but I know how expensive they can be and I'm not 100% sure if that's it. I MUST HAVE THIS FIXED very soon so I can drive it to school with me. I'm attending Wyotech in Laramie, WY
P.S. AWhile back I had a similar problem with lack of power and it seemed to be from a dirty MAF sensor which I cleaned and it ran great after that. After awhile I started getting the Check engine light coming on intermittantly. I would feather the throttle and it would reset and be fine. I'm not much of a speed demon so I never really noticed that my truck was suffering from a serious lack of power. FYI, I no longer have a cat on since I live in FL so no need thinking its that. I really am at a loss and I just need to get it running so I can get here to school where coincidentally I will be performing an engine swap to a Ford 289. Thanks for the help
Mike

Will the engine restart immediately? If not, how long does it take to restart?

Have you cleared the codes, and ran the engine to see what code comes back first?

Upon first starting the enigine starts fine and idles fine. The rpm's are a little high but completely normal until it warms up which is in just a minute or two depending on temperature. It'll idle fine and I can even race the throttle cable and it normallly accelerates great. About every 2 of 5 times the engine will increase in RPM's then hesitate as if it's bogging down and my sound like it's not making any power and want to stall. Anyway, after idling for 10-15 minutes it'll start acting like its gonna stall out. Sometimes I can resesatate it by feathering the throttle and other times it just dies. Even while on the road I often have to feather the gas to get it moving or keep it going up a hill, other times it seems fine but never having the power it used to. If I give it full throttle it wants to choke and die. I have reset the codes and driven it but not with much improvement. During troubleshooting over a period of three days I had codes 34 and 44. On the third day I came up with 41 also. This was a new one dealing with the CKP sensor and I was worried at that point. I'm still unsure if maybe one thing is causing all of my problems or if its a little of both or many things. This engine has ran great up until this point. I'm having some friends replace the O2 sensor first since I'm getting the code 34 Faulty lean signal from the Ho2S. Maybe that's abig problem but I didn't think so at first. Most of the techs said they thought I wasn't getting any fuel because when they sprayed carb cleaner or something straight into the throttle bodie the truck started up immediately, but then died. They were like yup, not getting any fuel. My pump works fine but when I disconnect the line and crank the engine I'm not getting anything coming out of the line. Like I said most of the time the truck starts right up but drivability is horrible. Only after running/driving it for a good distance does it not want to start back up after being shut off. Hope this helps. P.S I no longer have a cat since I'm registered in Florida. Just assume leave it off when we cut it out to see if that was causing a problem. Could it really be my Distributer (code 41)? Thanks and I eagerly await your reply.
Mike Marcink

Oxygen sensor codes are to be expected without the cat missing. It may as well be left unplugged. It is not legal, to the best of my knowledge, to not have a converter installed regardless of what state you are in.

I really think you need to determine if you have proper fuel pressure when the problem is present. You really need a fuel gauge to determine this. You said there was no fuel pressure, if there is no fuel pressure when the pump is receiving battery voltage (this is key and must be tested) the pump is bad or there is a restriction (plugged sock gasket, fuel filter, etc). When testing voltage to the pump there should be engine cranking voltage to the pump and you should hear the pump hum in the tank.

If the fuel pump runs and you have pressure you'll need to check for injector pulse to injectors. The fuel pump supplies fuel to the injector rail and the injectors spray the fuel, if the injectors are not being pulsed it won't run. All this said, the computer gets information on crank/cam position (distributor) to turn on the fuel pump and fire the injectors- so yes the distributor is possible but not guaranteed. Especially considering the code 41 was (apparently) the last code to set, it's possible it set inadvertantly due to voltage fluctuations from a stalling/fluttering engine (think what the charging voltage was doing during this time).

Ok back again. I have heard that the distributer can be a possible cause and have ordered one to have on standby due to the time crunch that I am in for fixing this. I will be home in about 2 weeks and I need to get it fixed by then. The pump does come on with the key turned to on but leaving the clutch out I can hear the pump coming on. I have already replaced the fuel filter and a faulty TPS (was getting incorrect readings). I realize that the TPS can be set incorrectly but it should not cause the severe hesitation that I am recieving. A few weeks before I left for WY I did use carb cleaner to try and de-gunk the carb. Is there any chance that the thick deposits would affect the fuel injectors or O2 sensor. I know the O2 can be affected but would it be bad enough to cause the problems I'm experiencing? Also, that's the point of the cleaner (to loosen up the carbon buildup and pass it thru the syatem to be either burned or expelled as waste. I don't think it would clog the injector but then if I knew for sure I wouldn't be on here asking you. I do have some friends that will check the fuel pressure with a gauge. Could it be the pressure regulator by chance? And could you also tell me what the duty solenoid does for the system. I was saying before that it would sometimes chatter when I thought a solenoid should either be on or off. Not chattering like a relay. Ok, also the voltage to the best of my memory was normal with no fluctuations. Like I said it starts fine, warms up, then starts the rough idling and becomes very unsafe to drive due to possible stalling and lack of get-up-and-go! Ok well lemme know again what you think. This is tough going back and forth like this but I really appreciate it.
Mike

If the egr solenoid is chattering it should be unplugged or replaced. The egr valve would not function as intended without the cat.

Are your friends going to check the fuel pressure before you return to your truck? They need to monitor the fuel pressure and see if it drops just before the rough running starts. If fuel pressure remains steady when the problem first occurrs the regulator, pump, and filter are fine.

Has the fuel filter been replaced?

Has the mass airflow sensor been checked?

Filter has been replaced and even the pump was once. Probably wasn't even needed but I wasn't aware the problem was i the connection. That was a few years ago though. As for the cat it is removed since Florida has no smog laws or checks I went without it. As for the EGR valve it operates properly on its own but I'm not aware of if it works when I'm driving. At idle if you actuate it the engine wants to stall which is what I believe it is supposed to do. It holds vacuum with no drop so thats good. As for the fuel pressure they will be checking for what you mentioned. The MAF sensor was acting up awhile ago and I found it to be dusty/dirty. After cleaning it the truck had an improvement in performance. I have since again checked for the same problem and no dirt was to be found. I do believe that it can be checked by a simple ohm check and if I remember correctly I believe it was good also. If it wasn't good wouldn't I receive a CEL code?? Ok well my parts are almost to Cali and my buddies should be working on this fairly soon so keep the suggestions coming. I basically checked everything I could think of except the fuel pressure and injectors. I'm hesitant on the injectors because no they are expensive and I really only need the engine to run to get it here in WY and maybe for a month or two after. I would hate to dump some serious money into an engine that is getting swapped out. Thanks again. I'll be hearing from you soon I hope.
Mike

The MAF can under-report the airflow and the computer will not know it's 'lying' so would have no reason to code the MAF. It may set O2 codes (assuming the O2 recognizes there is more air than fuel)(keep in mind the computer will only trigger the injectors to send a small amount of fuel if the MAF is reporting a small amount of air). I am not saying it is the problem, just that I've heard nothing to rule it out.

It seems the engine runs fine when cold. If you could cool suspect components quickly when the problem occurs this may help pinpoint the cause. Component cooler (available from radio shack) (or any product that evaporates very quickly and creates a cooling effect) is what I'd recommend. Try chilling the MAF (as quickly as possible)- if no change is noted- try distributor electronics and see if you can temporarily cure the problem this way/ to isolate the defective part."

Well my buddies worked on it tonight and they said the fuel pressure was 15 PSI which was 2 psi above the 9-13 reference from the manual so that seems ok. I think I may really have a problem with the O2 sensor. I'll let you know after we change it. Keep in touch.

Not inpossible on the O2 sensor. A shorting sensor/circuit could do it. Pay close attention the wiring.

On the injectors, you can check the injectors with an ohm meter. Don't be as concerned about the exact numbers as uniformity amongst the injectors. A shorting injector is a possibility.

I re-read your post. You said you were doing a 289 swap, are you swapping the 289 into your truck?

Yeah I'm swapping out the 4 banger for the 289. The whole truck is custom already so its no biggie to do this. It just sucks that my Isuzu motor is giving me problems now and I'm having to put money into fixing it when I'm getting ready to swap it anyway. Are there any problems you foresee? Have a good weekend. It's snowing here, hope the weathers better where you're at.
Mike

The weather was great here the last few days. Freezing weather is coming back soon, at least it should be over soon.

Are you making your own exhaust system and driveshaft?

Well I'm here in San Diego finally trying to get this damn truck running. Had to buy a new battery, rotate the tires, and put gas in it just to do some troubleshooting. Ok well I've got a new distributor but I'm really trying to put that in last since it's a few hundred bucks and a core charge. Everything seems to be in order. Could I have such a severe hesitation from anything vacuum related? Also, will an EGR temp circuit sensor cause any problems with hesitation and stumbling? The ECT temp works fine. I'm not even sure where to look for the EGR sensor. I heard its under the intake manifold but is there possibly 2 of these and do they have square connectors? I keep getting the 34, 41, 44 codes. I really gotta get this figured out tomorrow. As the truck was running I disconnected the MAF sensor and the truck stumbled so that seemed to be working fine. Also, disconnected the O2 Sensor and that didnt seem to do much. Could it be an EGR valve? I tried to double-check all my lines and they seemed fine. Ok well enough for tonight. Lemme know soon what you think. I'll be hitting it hard again tomorrow morning.
Thanks
Mike

I would try the new distributor first. If it doesn't work return it for a refund. I'm aware of policies restricting returns on elctrical parts- I've never been turned down for one that did not fit properly.

well i fixed it with a new fuel pump. all that hassle and it was a clogged pump. my fuel cell wasn't cleaned out before they installed it and some of the aluminum shavings were being sucked up since they didnt re-install the pump with the filter. over time it made it fail. had an old pump laying around and it runs like a champ now. thanks and have a great easter.
mike

I'm surprised it didn't fail sooner. I hope you had an uneventful trip back to college.

Happy Easter-

1994 Isuzu Pick-up Engine Leaking When driving Always

2.3 ltr 4 cyl. I have an oil leak from a very strange place, not sure what to do. Right behind the right motor mount, hidden quite well, there is a short piece of rubber hose, about 3/8 inch in diameter, STICKING OUT OF THE BLOCK, about one inch above the oil pan, and oil is leaking out of this rubber hose, which has about a 1/8 inch opening i the hose. Due to the motor mount, I can only get one finger on this piece of hose and it moves up and down about 1/4 inch, almost like it might be part of a valve. I dont' have an Isuzu Repair Manual so I don't know what role this device plays. I have high oil pressure on startup, ie., 60 to 80 psi, but drops into 20 PSI when warm at idle. I'm going to replace the oil pump, it's about 6 inches from this rubber hose, only thing I can think of, presuming that the pressure relief valve on the pump is kaput and is putting too much pressure into the oil gallery, pushing oil out of this hose. So, what the heck is this little hose sticking out of the bottom skirt of the block, and what do you think might be cause oil to come out of this little hose? PCV valve appears to be OK, the little valve moves freely. thanks.

Bill thames

The tube you are describing may well be the vent/drain for the fuel pump on your engine. The fuel pump is cam driven and oil cooled. There is a diaphram in the fuel pump that fails leaving a mix of several consequences:

1. Oil can get past the diaphram and go out the vent.

2. Fuel can get past the diaphram and will go to the crankcase, which dilutes your engine oil viscosity.

3. Fuel pressure is impaired until diaphram failure advances and pressure is too low to run the engine.

I recommend a fuel pump and changing your engine oil and filter. I believe your oil pump is likely just fine, I doubt changing it would repair your situation.

Your turn,

Roger

1991 Isuzu Pick-up Engine   

truck will not start put in new starter,battery good,new lock,new iginition swicth. But if you push it with will start and drive fine when turned off I cannot start it with the key what do I check next ?

What is happening? Will the engine crank but no start, or does the starter not come on?

Does the clutch pedal have to be down and is the switch good and adjusted propoerly?

What engine please? Have you checked fuses?

Please advise,

Roger

The starter will not even make any movment not
a sound. the engine will not turn.
I press down the cluch and I did by pass the cluch
swicth.

What engine, please?

Roger

the engine is 2.3

The Black/White wire that connects to the starter solenoid should have battery volts when the key is in START and the clutch switch is closed or as you say bypassed.

What voltage reading do you get when you run this test?

Please advise,

Roger

See if you can copy and paste this link to a wiring diagram for the start system on your truck in your browser address bar:

http://www.e-toolbox.com/ads/wiring/va107236.pdf

Roger

I did not run any test. Before this whole thing started. It was getting harder and harder to start.
I was thinking it was the key ingnition, I chenged that it was the same, I changed the ignition wire, it was still the same, than I changed the starter to a new one still it will not start. I unhocked the cluch wire and did a by pass still nothing.
That is why I am asking for any other help in solving this problem.

Were you able to get the wiring diagram to open so you may see the starter circuit?

Will you go ahead and run the test for voltage on the Black/White wire at the starter solenoid with the key in the START position?

Roger

What happened here? I'm trying to help you...

Roger

I am trying everything and it seems that I am not getting any were.
I could not find the site that deals with my kind of truck.
I need this truck to do my job, If I cannot find any help I will just have to have it towed to a mechanic for them to deal with it.
I was thinking I could save some money by going to this site.

Were you able to see the wiring diagram I sent the link to? Do you have a fax number I can send the diagram to? Basicly, the large Black wire that connects to the starter should have battery volts at all times.

The smaller Blk/Wht wire that connects to the starter solenoid is "switched hot" by the ignition key when turned to the start position. That is how the starter is turned on. If you have battery volts at the Blk/Wht wire with the key in START position and nothing happens, the starter is bad.

If you do not get voltage on the Blk/Wht wire with the key in START then there is an open circuit between the ignition switch wire that runs through the clutch switch and then to the starter solenoid.

Are your battery connections clean and tight at both ends of both cables?

If you don't have access to a fax, please advise your email address and I'll send the diagram in .pdf format to you.

Lets do this,

Roger

I have taken the truck to a mechanic and I will be
waiting to hear from them in the next 2 to three
hours.
Thanks for all your help.

Oh shoot! I was hoping to give you what you need to fix it yourself.

What do you want to do with your question and the info I've sent?

Please advise,

Roger

I will delete it. I was really hoping that I could
get the answer and do it myself.
After I have changed so much in the truck.
sorry I do not have a fax to get the infor you were
going to send me.

To request a refund for my not having answered your question please write to All-Parts.com, Site Administrator, All-Parts.com.

You can click on the yellow "EMAIL US" button on the left of your screen and state your request.

Should you need us, please consider giving us another try. We want your business.

Thank you sincerely,

Roger

What is the status of this question, please?

Thanks,

Roger

the mechanic is waiting to get the parts that is
the wire and the cluch swicth. wire from the lock
swicth.

Is there anything else I can do for you?

To request a refund for my not having answered your question please write to All-Parts.com, Site Administrator, All-Parts.com.

You can click on the yellow "EMAIL US" button on the left of your screen and state your request.

Should you need us, please consider giving us another try. We want your business.

Thank you sincerely,

Roger

I have saked him to let you have the money
since you did all
I could not meet your request.

Thank you for your courtesy. If you can see a button to click that says "OK TO PAY MECHANIC" and click on it, it will signal All-Parts to release the funds so that I may be paid.

Either way, I'm grateful.

Roger

1990 Isuzu Pick-up Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start Happens always Always

New dist. coil cap & rotor did not help $300.00

Are you missing spark to the plugs?
Do you have fuel pressure?
Does the rotor in the distributor turn when you crank the engine?
For further assistance give your engine size, 2.3L with carb or 2.6L FI.

Yes the dist. turns
I put fuel down the intake and did nothing

Have you checked fuses?
Check for (key on) positive voltage to the coil.

I have 1990 suzu pick-up 2.6 fuel inj.new timing belt in the last 10000 miles.I was dirving in my driveway and it shot off.I then check the timing belt, pulled dist.cap and # 1 plug turned it over to # 1 top dead center and the rotor was inline with #1 on the cap .after that I put in all new Dist. cap rotor dist cap and coil.

could it be the crank shaft sensor ?? if so wear is I have look all over the motor .
is the spark controld by the computer??
I"m about ready to give up
thank's Herb

Here is a helpful link for diagnosing your ignition system. Highlight, Edit, Copy, and Paste the link into your Address bar.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/18/39/e[redacted] 39e8.jsp

To understand correctly, was the complete distributor replaced?
Have you checked for troublecodes, if not do you need instructions?
Don't give up, not yet.

Email me directly if you wish,
[redacted]
Be sure to put 'Isuzu' in subject line.

I have code 41

This means no crank signal is being detected.
Without the signal engine will not run.

You asked about the crankshaft sensor (yours is in the distributor), which can have various names depending on manufacturer and application (IE- crank angle sensor, cam sensor, distributor pick up coil,etc). Contact your local autoparts store to see if they offer free off vehicle testing (many typically do including autozone and advance auto). Or consider a used distributor as parts are pricey for these.

This is a new distributor new cap rotor and coil new timing belt I tested wires and tried new coil wire,I check all Fuses, power is at the coil, the ground is good. Is the computer controling the spark?

The crank signal goes from distributor to the computer. The computer then controls the ground to the coil. Before you condemn the computer, remove the connector to the distributor and see if there is Key On Positive voltage to the connector.

1989 Isuzu Pick-up Engine   

The engine will not rev up past idle if it will run at all. A new fuel filter has been installed. I suspect a sensor of sort. Can you suggest how to test sensors or which to begin replacing.

The first thing you need to do is check fuel pressure. Inadequate fuel pressure produces the exact symptoms you have.

Is the check engine light coming on while the engine is running? If it is then you'll need to check trouble codes and start testing sensors.

A replacement fuel pump fixed my problem, I should have know.

Thanks for your help.

Jim Taylor